A suggestion for future videos: We havent seen the car in its full glory in a long while now, perhaps for an otherwise shorter video you could walk around it with the camera and just show us how she looks?
Another real lesson in craftsmanship. Book-matching the cut pieces to get symmetrical grain, using that compass-routed plywood template for the edge smoothing, using the router in alternating directions to avoid tearout - all stuff you _could_ make a wheel without, but that attention to detail is why this project is shaping up to be a masterpiece.
Other details that really stood out to me were alternating the joints 45° from one side to the other to get a sturdier ring, etching the surface of the steel to get a better gluing surface and using pretty much every clamp he could fit in there to evenly press it.
I've seen a few cars built to this standard but what amazes me is how this guy is proficient in so many disciplines at such a young age.lf he was mentored by his dad then all I can say is you did a good job raising him!!!.
What an amazing shop you have to work in. Full woodworking setup with proper dust control, a metal lathe and a mill. There isn't much that you can't fabricate there. I am very jealous.
You picked a perfect wood species for the rim and finished it off beautifully. It has been amazing watching your skills and your channel grow since you built the tank.
You are a tribute to craftsmanship. I love the way you think of solutions to the inevitable problems that arise in a plan. One thought you could mask off your wheel and spray a little matt enamel on the steel wheel to preserve its natural finish. You embody the old adage: Effort yields Results
On my Riley 9 I used the original wheel but wrapped the steel rim in cotton cord. Then every time I have oily, greasy hands from working on the car I wipe them on it. Over time it builds up a nice patina which is waterproof, nicely grippy and very period looking.
I just happened to come across a few of these videos and must say I am impressed with this guys skills at such a young age. Kudos to him. Actually it surprised me a little because all I've seen lately is most young guys being lazy, acting stupid and very undisciplined and either on drugs or chasing tail. Maybe it's the area I live. In any case, I hope to see more young guys getting their shit together and using their brains and stop depending upon social media for their life. Peace to this young guy!
What variety of engineering will this talented guy pursue? I've watched every one of the excellent videos. All are presented perfectly. Great job! Always looking forward to the next one...
Beautiful job on the wheel and a good choice of wood. Both the wheel and ignition switch really suits the speedster, its all coming together period correct
I was just picturing a RUclips car show with this fine beast, Binky & Arete as the main drawcards. Can’t actually think of other ones that have the full gamut of engineering skills like that trio do. The suggestions would be plentiful from all corners of RUclips no doubt though.
You do BEAUTIFUL work... I would suggest to follow up the Tung Oil with a Beeswax & Mineral Oil treatment. It'll keep the wood protected better than the Tung Oil alone. Can't wait to see your finished car... its going to be AWESOME!
Really nice job. It's good that you stopped at 3/8. When you go to 1/2" with 1" thickness, the bearing doesn't hit the same outer diameter and cuts a little too deep.
@Ben Jones it's not the bluing stopping it from rusting. Bluing merely creates a porous surface for the oil to stick better. It's the oil preventing the rust. Hence why blued guns need regular cleaning and oiling to keep them from getting rusty.
Very nice job of finishing the steering wheel. I don't know if it's period correct but some brass rivets to look the wood and steel for safety. Might be a chance of the wood spinning loose from the steel. Great work as I've come to expect from you, you never disappoint.
You mentioned gauges. One gauge I like to use on my cars besides the standard oil pressure, water temperature, tachometer, ammeter is an intake manifold vacuum gauge. A vacuum gauge is a useful and valuable gauge to have since it instantly tells you how your engine and timing is running during idling. It also tells you when you're driving where the best throttle position is for economy. Rarely does anyone use a vacuum gauge and I think it would be unique for your unique car. Then you mentioned the supercharger. If you add a supercharger to your engine, you will definitely want an intake manifold vacuum/pressure gauge to monitor that device.
Yet more amazing skills on display. It was very kind to receive the on/off, perhaps if you're lucky some kind individual will donate a set of Jaeger instruments!
On your dash panel it would look great machine turned. I have done this on aluminium dash panels before and use a piece of broom handle about 1" or so for the tool and drill it to take a steel rod, then cut a leather disk and glue it on the flat bottom of the wood.Put this tool int your pillar drill and then using valve grinding paste applied to the leather make overlap circles of the round pattern along the panel. Ideally you want to overlap the left to right and the ones above to avoid leaving bare metal. This finish was done on the type 35 Bugatti dash and the scuttle under the bonnet, it looks great. Just wipe off the old paste when you're done with a degreaser or thinner and you are left with a great vintage look.
Fantastic!!!! But pls use a pusher stick on the table saw !!!! And you could improve your fit metal on wood with Epoxy glue it's a real pleasur to wath U merci beaucoup
Would it have been much easier to buy a steering wheel from Auto Zone? I'm kidding - 'the project was well thought out and executed. 'great shop & well narrated - you'd make a great neighbor thumbs up & subbed
Really like this, will probably have to make a similar one for my Auto Union Type C build. I haven't been able to find one very similar to what they came with. Gauges will also be a hassle!
Watching all your shows' and really like them , thanks . RUclips algorithm sent me to Ivan's shed and all things Salmson GP racers . Have you seen the Salmson's ?
I like watching your videos, keep them coming. A couple of tips, definitely would of been better scuffing up the outer ring of the metal and using epoxy for your glue up. You'll probably find that the wood will separate from the metal after a couple of seasons. Also, get yourself a collapsible steering column! Could save your life in an accident.
Tip for future reference: Router bits are directional. You always want to be cutting so that you are moving the piece against the rotation of the bit (biting under the material), not with the rotation of the bit (wanting to ride over the material). You'll have much more control this way and get a much better cut.
I thought that... then I realised that they are curved pieces cut from straight-grain wood, so the end grain rises in different directions, and it looks like he was alternating direction so it was always cutting towards the middle point to prevent tearing out end grain (although he does mention this started to happen anyway). Check out this guide which recommends climb cutting places where the grain rises against the router bit www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/avoid-tear-out-when-routing
I was wondering about that bare metal in the wheel. Nickel plating would have been my suggestion. You could have done that without any dangerous chemicals like used in Chrome. You can coat it with the Tung oil, clear lacquer, or just a good coat of wax to keep down the rust. The 1" diameter is probably a good compromise. Some of the cars from the period may have had larger diameter. Very nice work.
Greetings, Nickel finish would be nice, and period correct. Caswell plating sells a variety of home plating kits. You could use them for other pieces of brightwork on the car. Another finish you might consider is gun bluing. There are a number of RUclips videos explaining how to do rust bluing, which is an attractive, rust resistant finish. Unlike paint, it doesn’t add to the surface, or interfere with parts fit. Early Miller race cars used bluing on the radiator shells and other trim pieces. There is a fairly famous photograph of Jimmy Murphy sitting in his Miller, after winning the Indy 500. Let’s be careful out there.
to minimize the tear-out when routing against the grain, make your pass in reverse or as it's called "climb cutting" you won't get the tear-out. 10 or 12 1/4" holes drilled into the outer metal rim of your wheel would allow a place for excess glue to go and would really "key" the two materials together. also, when working with wood and glue, it's a good idea to have a bowl of warm water and a clean rag to clean each joint. the glue gets in the woods pores and seals them from your tung oil to penetrate evenly. don't flood it, just clean off the glue. it will make the wood swell, but you can block sand each joint with sand paper wrapped around a small piece of aluminum 3/8" or 1/2 " thick, 1" x 2" so it's dead flat for a full bond, with no gaps. no disrespect to anything your doing, i'm just passing along things i've learned in my 45 years of cabinet making and crafts.
The bond between the metal and the wood isn't really important. The two wooden halves stick to each other and hold the metal frame captive. The excess glue in the cavity fills out the space to stop it from rattling loose.
a good way to protect that metal from rust and keep the raw metal look would be to beeswax treat it (heat the metal with a gas torch, rub a lump of wax on, buff it off with a cloth after it cools down)
Nice!! I was a little surprised that you made each side out of four longer pieces, rather than eight (octagon) shorter ones. The grain would have run more straight that way. Regardless though, it looks great on that car! Looking forward to seeing it continue to come together.
@@MacroMachines Not really. You might need a few more clamps, and maybe a strap, but using the methods you used, an octagon would have hardly been much more difficult. For that matter, you should be able to find a number of examples on youtube woodworker channels.
Huge fan of this project! Do you plan on leaving the dashboard naked aluminium or perhaps, and this is of course just a suggestion; cut out some nice hardwood, and then cover the dashboard with it? and then if you varnish it, i think it would look sick with all the nice gauges! Keep up the good work, greetings from Norway!
done a great job on that , you could put it under the mill and machine fingergrips in the back of the hoop with a round mill but the risk of messing it up is too great
A small button-head rivet through the top of the wheel would look pretty good and serve as a stop to prevent the wood from rotating on the steel frame. It would also serve as a clocking mark which could be handy in this car. Kind of surprised you didn't use epoxy to join the wood to the frame.
A suggestion for future videos:
We havent seen the car in its full glory in a long while now, perhaps for an otherwise shorter video you could walk around it with the camera and just show us how she looks?
Yes, I would quite like this
A big big yes for that one ^^
That is a yes for me too! Really looking forward tot that. The car is coming along just fine!
Yes, please
You can never have too many clamps!
Good old Norm.
Another real lesson in craftsmanship. Book-matching the cut pieces to get symmetrical grain, using that compass-routed plywood template for the edge smoothing, using the router in alternating directions to avoid tearout - all stuff you _could_ make a wheel without, but that attention to detail is why this project is shaping up to be a masterpiece.
Other details that really stood out to me were alternating the joints 45° from one side to the other to get a sturdier ring, etching the surface of the steel to get a better gluing surface and using pretty much every clamp he could fit in there to evenly press it.
Is this guy a doppelganger of Matthias Wandel? Both brilliantly talented.
I've seen a few cars built to this standard but what amazes me is how this guy is proficient in so many disciplines at such a young age.lf he was mentored by his dad then all I can say is you did a good job raising him!!!.
Love this build and always look forward to the next episode to see it coming together even more!
I don’t know how old you are but your craftsmanship is incredible. Also your high speed recording makes this video set very entertaining.
What an amazing shop you have to work in. Full woodworking setup with proper dust control, a metal lathe and a mill. There isn't much that you can't fabricate there. I am very jealous.
Pink Floyd in the background...you are my man! Beautiful wheel! Well done!
You picked a perfect wood species for the rim and finished it off beautifully.
It has been amazing watching your skills and your channel grow since you built the tank.
Artist in steel, alu, rubber, wood and many more...respect
You must be proud of that steering wheel that’s like a beautiful piece of jewelry beyond imagining😌👍🏻✨
You are a tribute to craftsmanship. I love the way you think of solutions to the inevitable problems that arise in a plan. One thought you could mask off your wheel and spray a little matt enamel on the steel wheel to preserve its natural finish.
You embody the old adage: Effort yields Results
You have some serious skills. I learn a lot as I watch.
Sweet!!! Very well done. Thank you for sharing...from South Africa
Excellent work. You explained the process very well in words. 👍
On my Riley 9 I used the original wheel but wrapped the steel rim in cotton cord. Then every time I have oily, greasy hands from working on the car I wipe them on it. Over time it builds up a nice patina which is waterproof, nicely grippy and very period looking.
That's a really cool idea.
this guy is an inspiration for young guys/gals...thank you!
I just happened to come across a few of these videos and must say I am impressed with this guys skills at such a young age. Kudos to him. Actually it surprised me a little because all I've seen lately is most young guys being lazy, acting stupid and very undisciplined and either on drugs or chasing tail. Maybe it's the area I live.
In any case, I hope to see more young guys getting their shit together and using their brains and stop depending upon social media for their life. Peace to this young guy!
I mention it before and I will said it again ..Men ...... you have some talent!
Nice, thats going to be a spectacular car when its finished.
What variety of engineering will this talented guy pursue? I've watched every one of the excellent videos. All are presented perfectly. Great job! Always looking forward to the next one...
Beautiful job on the wheel and a good choice of wood. Both the wheel and ignition switch really suits the speedster, its all coming together period correct
I really want to feel as you feel when you accomplish something unique and special
I was just picturing a RUclips car show with this fine beast, Binky & Arete as the main drawcards. Can’t actually think of other ones that have the full gamut of engineering skills like that trio do. The suggestions would be plentiful from all corners of RUclips no doubt though.
Urchfab with his Mongrel build is pretty good, definitely not the same engineering level as Binky but the guy is a killer fabricator
Home build by Jeff
You do BEAUTIFUL work... I would suggest to follow up the Tung Oil with a Beeswax & Mineral Oil treatment. It'll keep the wood protected better than the Tung Oil alone. Can't wait to see your finished car... its going to be AWESOME!
Really nice job. It's good that you stopped at 3/8. When you go to 1/2" with 1" thickness, the bearing doesn't hit the same outer diameter and cuts a little too deep.
Great looking work as usual. If you strive as much in college for high standards as you do on this project you'll be at the top of your class.
Man. You never seize to amaze me. That is way cool.
Rifle blue on the steal wheel would look killer imo.
@Ben Jones it's not the bluing stopping it from rusting. Bluing merely creates a porous surface for the oil to stick better. It's the oil preventing the rust. Hence why blued guns need regular cleaning and oiling to keep them from getting rusty.
Indeed. A li'l Birchwood Casey Super Blue cold bluing would really make it pop.
Awesome craftsmanship.
Get some sharkhide. It's a metal protective.just wipe it on and keeps steel and other metals from oxidizing. Great stuff
Very nice job of finishing the steering wheel. I don't know if it's period correct but some brass rivets to look the wood and steel for safety. Might be a chance of the wood spinning loose from the steel. Great work as I've come to expect from you, you never disappoint.
I was thinking that for the same reasons. A rivet through each spoke end, and halfway along the quadrants would set it off nicely.
enjoy watching you work and solve problems
Beautiful wheel. Looks great on it!
Sei forte ragazzo, forte ed educato, veramente un esempio. Ciao
Fantastic result - love your work
You mentioned gauges. One gauge I like to use on my cars besides the standard oil pressure, water temperature, tachometer, ammeter is an intake manifold vacuum gauge. A vacuum gauge is a useful and valuable gauge to have since it instantly tells you how your engine and timing is running during idling. It also tells you when you're driving where the best throttle position is for economy. Rarely does anyone use a vacuum gauge and I think it would be unique for your unique car. Then you mentioned the supercharger. If you add a supercharger to your engine, you will definitely want an intake manifold vacuum/pressure gauge to monitor that device.
Ten years from now, once some patina has set in you car is going to look fantastic. (Even better than when it was new!)
Great job so far young man!
Brilliant job man👍 I'm looking forward to the day she's ready to start up and drive for the first time.
Yet more amazing skills on display. It was very kind to receive the on/off, perhaps if you're lucky some kind individual will donate a set of Jaeger instruments!
it came out beautifully.
On your dash panel it would look great machine turned. I have done this on aluminium dash panels before and use a piece of broom handle about 1" or so for the tool and drill it to take a steel rod, then cut a leather disk and glue it on the flat bottom of the wood.Put this tool int your pillar drill and then using valve grinding paste applied to the leather make overlap circles of the round pattern along the panel. Ideally you want to overlap the left to right and the ones above to avoid leaving bare metal. This finish was done on the type 35 Bugatti dash and the scuttle under the bonnet, it looks great. Just wipe off the old paste when you're done with a degreaser or thinner and you are left with a great vintage look.
Great work. Hours of precision work to produce a work of art.
Been wondering if there was a new MM video for a while, turns out notifications were off, found half a dozen video. Ideal way to start a Saturday!
Amazing job. The whole project looks great.
Great work as usual. After seeing that beautiful wood it makes me think about putting it on the dash too.
That is some good looking wood!
Excellent, it looks wonderful
Nicely done and quite instructive along the way. Thanks
Nice steering wheel. I was expecting some rivets but it really looks great with out them
That looks fantastic!
One word. Excellent!!
I can`t wait to go for a ride in it !
Fantastic!!!! But pls use a pusher stick on the table saw !!!! And you could improve your fit metal on wood with Epoxy glue it's a real pleasur to wath U merci beaucoup
Would it have been much easier to buy a steering wheel from Auto Zone?
I'm kidding - 'the project was well thought out and executed.
'great shop & well narrated - you'd make a great neighbor
thumbs up & subbed
Really like this, will probably have to make a similar one for my Auto Union Type C build. I haven't been able to find one very similar to what they came with. Gauges will also be a hassle!
Watching all your shows' and really like them , thanks . RUclips algorithm sent me to Ivan's shed and all things Salmson GP racers . Have you seen the Salmson's ?
Such an incredible young man.I 👍👍👍
Beautiful. Thank you for sharing.
Greetings Sir from North Wales UK.
That ignition switch is the bees knees😘
I’m your Fan from today cause you listen Pink Floyd 😎😎
Don't tell Bob but looks like we have a new "Clamp Champ" :)
Just wow. Fantastic Great job
I'm sure this has been covered in other videos. You look young. How did you aquire all those tools and all your skill? You are amazing.
It’s his families house so he grew up around the tools.
@@Crewsy I'm am so impressed with the skill level compared to age.
Great job! Your work is remarkable!
Nice job my friend 🙂
Fantastic Crazy Quality as always.
I like watching your videos, keep them coming. A couple of tips, definitely would of been better scuffing up the outer ring of the metal and using epoxy for your glue up. You'll probably find that the wood will separate from the metal after a couple of seasons. Also, get yourself a collapsible steering column! Could save your life in an accident.
When you cutting across the grain with router and you it's going to tear out .... try freezing the wood and then route it. It works
Tip for future reference:
Router bits are directional. You always want to be cutting so that you are moving the piece against the rotation of the bit (biting under the material), not with the rotation of the bit (wanting to ride over the material). You'll have much more control this way and get a much better cut.
I thought that... then I realised that they are curved pieces cut from straight-grain wood, so the end grain rises in different directions, and it looks like he was alternating direction so it was always cutting towards the middle point to prevent tearing out end grain (although he does mention this started to happen anyway). Check out this guide which recommends climb cutting places where the grain rises against the router bit www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/avoid-tear-out-when-routing
@@PKMartin Hm, yeah, that makes sense.
wow, you got enough clamps to be a boat builder. sure is a great shop. how about a tour video?
I was wondering about that bare metal in the wheel. Nickel plating would have been my suggestion. You could have done that without any dangerous chemicals like used in Chrome. You can coat it with the Tung oil, clear lacquer, or just a good coat of wax to keep down the rust. The 1" diameter is probably a good compromise. Some of the cars from the period may have had larger diameter. Very nice work.
Wowwww, amazing! Great job.
Great job man, that looks awesome! 👍
Splendid work, as always.
Very nice job.
Greetings,
Nickel finish would be nice, and period correct.
Caswell plating sells a variety of home plating kits.
You could use them for other pieces of brightwork on the car.
Another finish you might consider is gun bluing.
There are a number of RUclips videos explaining how to do rust bluing, which is an attractive, rust resistant finish.
Unlike paint, it doesn’t add to the surface, or interfere with parts fit.
Early Miller race cars used bluing on the radiator shells and other trim pieces.
There is a fairly famous photograph of Jimmy Murphy sitting in his Miller, after winning the Indy 500.
Let’s be careful out there.
Amazing job!
very nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
to minimize the tear-out when routing against the grain, make your pass in reverse or as it's called "climb cutting" you won't get the tear-out. 10 or 12 1/4" holes drilled into the outer metal rim of your wheel would allow a place for excess glue to go and would really "key" the two materials together. also, when working with wood and glue, it's a good idea to have a bowl of warm water and a clean rag to clean each joint. the glue gets in the woods pores and seals them from your tung oil to penetrate evenly. don't flood it, just clean off the glue. it will make the wood swell, but you can block sand each joint with sand paper wrapped around a small piece of aluminum 3/8" or 1/2 " thick, 1" x 2" so it's dead flat for a full bond, with no gaps. no disrespect to anything your doing, i'm just passing along things i've learned in my 45 years of cabinet making and crafts.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
That turned out perfect !
really nice work, well done,
Very nice....I wonder what kind of glue sticks to metal and wood...🤔 Great work!
The bond between the metal and the wood isn't really important. The two wooden halves stick to each other and hold the metal frame captive. The excess glue in the cavity fills out the space to stop it from rattling loose.
a good way to protect that metal from rust and keep the raw metal look would be to beeswax treat it (heat the metal with a gas torch, rub a lump of wax on, buff it off with a cloth after it cools down)
Очень классно получилось ,всегда смотрю с интересом.Удачи в дальнейшем.
Nice work
Goes for a job interview.
"I built my own car."
"Oh, that's great, what kind?"
"Scratch."
damn! pin over the steering column nut! thats like a 1000$ steering wheel easy lol
Nice job!
Nice!! I was a little surprised that you made each side out of four longer pieces, rather than eight (octagon) shorter ones. The grain would have run more straight that way. Regardless though, it looks great on that car! Looking forward to seeing it continue to come together.
An octagon would've just been much harder to align and clamp together
@@MacroMachines Not really. You might need a few more clamps, and maybe a strap, but using the methods you used, an octagon would have hardly been much more difficult. For that matter, you should be able to find a number of examples on youtube woodworker channels.
Huge fan of this project! Do you plan on leaving the dashboard naked aluminium or perhaps, and this is of course just a suggestion; cut out some nice hardwood, and then cover the dashboard with it? and then if you varnish it, i think it would look sick with all the nice gauges! Keep up the good work, greetings from Norway!
Good stuff. I thought you might whack some brass rivets in it. Something that would be polished off flush.
Love the project. Huge repect for your skill and creativity.
.....But those flat-bottomed windshield frames... they look wrong for this car.
Looks awesome.
Very nice job, thanks.
done a great job on that , you could put it under the mill and machine fingergrips in the back of the hoop with a round mill but the risk of messing it up is too great
🧡 this project is sooo cool!
A small button-head rivet through the top of the wheel would look pretty good and serve as a stop to prevent the wood from rotating on the steel frame. It would also serve as a clocking mark which could be handy in this car. Kind of surprised you didn't use epoxy to join the wood to the frame.