I have viewed your other videos. You are not only a great photographer but a great teacher as well. The pacing of your speaking is neither fast nor slow and just perfectly right for every non-English native speaker. Unfortunately, I could not afford the Z9 camera. I am not sure if the other cheaper Nikon mirrorless cameras have the same stack-shooting capability as the Z9. Thanks for your time showing us how to.
Thanks for watching my videos Virgil. I have used the D850 (up until the Z9) and it has a focus stack feature. It's not quite as fancy, but works great if you are still using DSLR. I'd be surprised if Nikon doesn't have this on every camera going forward as well.
As an imminent Z9 owner you have created a video that's informative and straight to the point. This will be a massive help to me as I get to grips with the Z9's capabilities. Many thanks!!
Thank's for the video. When shooting Focus shift (as Nikon calls it) using a Z-lens, there's one more option. If you take e.g. 10 shots and then display the latest picture, press "i", go to the bottom, and select "View..." you get an outlined b/w picture of all the 10 shots. If you find out that it's not enough, just take 10 more pictures and continue from where the focus stopped after the first series. But viewing the result this way only works with Z-lenses, and with the option "Peaking Stack Image" enabled in the Focus shift shooting menu. You set the focus step to "1". That is always a good setting. If you use more focus steps between the pictures, be aware that different lenses move the focus point different distances for the same setting. It can differ up to three times between a MC Z 105mm and a Z 24-200mm (when it's set to 105 mm focus length). The Z 105 seems to have three times more steps than the "cheaper" lenses.
This has to be the best video I’ve seen on this subject…and I’ve watched a ton! Very clear and logical progression through the steps. Sadly my D500 doesn’t have this feature 😢 so manual stacking is my only option.
Thank you! There is a product from Helicon that works with Nikon and a newer Macro lens. It does the focus changes for your. I think its called and FB Tube. It's an extension tube so you can only use it for close up, but it works really well. Here is a link: www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-fb-tube/
Terry. Excellent video. Thank you. Can you share the model information on the tripod you used in the stream, the one that almost opens flat at ground level? Cheers.
Thanks for this helpful video! I just got a new Z8! I am still confused about how to determine what to set FOCUS STACKED WIDTH. I’d appreciate any additional guidance you can provide! Thanks so much!
Hi Randy. The Width coincides with your aperture setting. If you shoot at f/16 you can shoot LESS shots in your stack. If you shoot at f/8 you will need more shots than if you were shooting at f/16. However, I like to set this width at 1 the most narrow setting. That way if I am shooting at f/4 or 5.6 - I know I will be covered and that I am shooting the lens at its most optimum setting for best sharpness. If you don't mind having more shots in your stack, make the setting 1 for the narrowest movement of focus changes. I hope this helps.
Thank you for a very informative video. I am still a bit puzzled about how many shots to set and how the camera determines where to end the process. For example, if I have a flower that is about 3 inches deep from the closest point to the end of what I want in focus, how do I determine how many shots are needed. Likewise, if I am focus stacking a landscape that may be hundreds of yards deep, how can I tell the camera how many shots to take and what is the distance interval between shots. Thank you in advance for your reply.
Hi Gary, When photographing landscapes, the camera will stop when it gets to infinity. So no issue there, set it and it will stop. When working with close-up, I set mine for the max amount of shots (200?) , I always start well be for what I want in focus and then I watch the monitor to see the progression, when it starts focusing on things way in the background (that I don't need) and has covered everything I want in focus, I just turn the camera off - that stops the focus stack. Those are my solutions, hope they work for you.
@@tv510 Thank you for getting back to me, Terry. I watched a couple of other videos and I think I may have found the answer and would appreciate your thoughts. Setting the width to "1" and the number of shots to the maximum would work for small items such as flowers with the first shot as you suggested. For landscapes, I would set the width to "10" with the maximum number of shots. Do I have that right? In my head, I am asking what determines the number of shots the camera will capture for a flower and what determines the number of shots the camera will capture for a landscape? Thanks, again.
@@garyaltoonian783 You can do that extra step if you want, but I don't change it. Let's say I'm working with a landscape and a wide angle lens. To move from the front focus point to infinity (camera set on f/5.6 - Sharpest set up for your lens) it will take about 7 shots. I keep everything on maximums and that way I don't have make any changes if I am shooting an insect or a waterfall. Go outside and give it a try. It should work fine and stop when you are done.
@@tv510 Thanks again for your help. I think I have my question answered. It took another view of your video and playing with a macro lens (that just arrived today). Even though I am not a wildlife photographer, I have subscribed because your tips are translatable. Thanks for taking the time to prepare your videos.
Thanks Daniel, for checking it out! I chose Helicon over Photoshop because I thought it just worked, faster, better. I'm all about saving some time or upping my quality.
very detailed, thank you. Question, at 10:00 you state ". the exposure throughout your stack i however leave this off because i'm mostly shooting in manual mode so it doesn't matter at that point but if you're going to be shooting in one of the auto exposure modes this is a good option to have on now you're ready to go to make your first in-camera focus stack ..." but I don't see where you are setting or getting the in-camera stacked image. Is this truly in camera focus stacking? or just in-cccccccccccccccccccocus bracketing with software needed to do the focus stacking?
Hi Lisa, So the way this procedure works is you are telling the camera to create all these images. Then with those images, (best to use RAW) those images go into a focus stack software like the one I use Helicon. Does that answer your question?
@@tv510 Thank you Terry. I was under the impression, from the use of "make your first in-camera focus stack" that the camera stacked them (Olympus cameras stack in cameras, and now some of the mirrorless Canon 5 and 6 cameras do as well). Good to know that the camera focus brackets and software is needed
@@tv510 And thank you so much for teaching people how to use cameras How to set up cameras How to use lenses In general, super films are very pleasant to watch
Awesome video, I need to find more of your work. I do have a point of confusion though A couple times including at 12:50 you say you get your exposure, then flip it to manual so the exposure doesn’t change. What exactly are you flipping to manual? Isn’t the Z9 all manual? Also, there is a setting that will do this in the focus shift shooting selections, why not rely on that?
When I say "flip to manual". What I do is start the shoot in "A" automatic exposure mode. This gives me the average exposure for the scene. Then I change to "M" and input those setting in. Now I have my exposure that will not change. I'm just referencing the exposure mode. And no, the Z9 has many automatic settings that are really useful.
@@tv510 thanks for your help. I cannot find an “A” auto exposure mode. There is “P” programmed auto, “A” aperture priority, “S” shutter priority and “M” manual. I get the concept of letting the camera take a first stab at the settings but I am trying to see what I am missing in my understanding of my Z9. Thanks for your help with that!
@@larry6700 My bad, A for Aperture priority. I seldom use "S" shutter speed priority and never use the "P" mode. (I don't like to surrender that much control over to the camera.) 😀
Is there any way to start the focus stack with a delay or a remote release? Having to press the start button to commence focus stacking could cause unintentional movement or vibration.
I haven't tried a remote because if you start your first focus point early, (those are throw out images anyway) then all the vibrations will settle down once the the useable images are being captured. Good luck!
@@tv510 Yeah, I got that, but when you have that flower in your studio, the camera will never sense infinity. It will eventually get to your backdrop. Does it just quit then when it can’t fin anything beyond that?
@@drferry If you are using the Z9 for stacking landscape images, then it will stop at infinity no problem. If you are doing close up, it will stop, but it will churn out a lot of wasted images as it makes its way to infinity. (well past anything you want in focus. I prefer to watch my close up images and as it gets the last thing I want in focus (checking out the monitor as the images flash by) I let it go a few more shots and then stop it myself.
Nice Terry, maybe I sound foolish but I really don't understand the part of taking a photo of your finger to identify the first and last shot, can't we recognize them by file numbers. Once again thanks for educating us.
When I am are doing a focus stack, say, in a landscape I might shoot 20 photos of each scene. Then I might change the exposure and start the stack again. Then I might slightly change the composition. After all these shots I end up with hundreds of images that look pretty much the same. I’d have to look closely as them to determine which image is the first and last shot of a stack. When I shoot a shot of my fingers before and after it helps me determine the first and last shot of a stack. While viewing them in Lightroom, I can instantly see where a stack begins and ends. If I were to use file numbers, I’d have to stop while I was shooting and write down somewhere, that a stack starts with (file number) and ends with (different file number). Does that make sense?
This was about creating the source images, not the final image which was shown briefly and quickly being created in LR. Maybe you could talk through that part of it also.
instead of shooting your hand to denote a new stack, just enable the "starting storage folder" option in the stacking menu. It will create a new folder and put the images in it for each stacking session. Simple
Hi Pharaoh, thanks for watching. Traditionally the aperture ring has numbers on it - that are called f/stops. Typically they would read f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16. Sometimes the lens will start with a lower number and even go higher - such as f/22, f/29... Each number indicates a full f stop. If the widest part of your lens starts at f/2.8 then two stops over the widest would be f/5.6 - 2.8 - 4 (one stop) 5.6 (two stops). I hope this helps!
@@tv510 I appreciate your reply, thanks! It helps a bit. I have two 2.8 lenses that go to 3.5 when I push two stops. Are these half stops or just unusual lenses?
@@PharaohMan007 That might be the clicks in the dial, but it is not full stops. Two full stops will be at 5.6 no matter the lens. One thing to consider, is you may have lenses with variable f/stops. Usually these are zoom lenses that the widest f/stop will vary- depending on the focal length you have chosen. Example; When a zoom lens is set at 18mm it might be 2.8 is your widest aperture but if zoomed out to 70mm the widest will be 5.6. Good luck!
Hello. Thank you for this excellent video. I have a question regarding the automatic focus stacking option in Z9. If a macro lens is attached and this auto focus stacking option is activated, won't the camera keep firing on it till infinity is reached? And if that happens, won't the excellent blurred background be lost? Please elaborate on this. Thanks again.
So what I do is let the stack reach the end of the subject and then shut off the camera (or turn off the stacking program -. OK) That way the background is preserved and not too many useless images aren't created. Hope that helps.
Hi Terry just come across this video on focus stacking and found it very useful. I have Z9 as well but found on one shooting menu the focus stacking option is available but it’s greyed out on my other shooting menu, just wondered if you had any thoughts, thanks.
Hi Steven, thanks for watching. If you have your camera set for "bracketing" then the focus shift will not be available. That is where I have seen it. Because you can't tell the camera to focus shift AND bracket the exposures at the same time. This might also occur if you have your camera set on HDR - but I don't use that feature, so I haven't seen it.
I am usually changing my composition between stacks and resetting my first focus point so no need for an auto return. I set up, then I just go to my My Menu, hit Focus Shift Shooting and hit Start. It goes pretty quick.
Thanks for the excellent content of this video. In using Z9 for photo stacking do you have to put the camera in bracketing mode? and what F stop do you normally use? Can you use focus stacking technique for long exposure shoot?
HI Kareem, Thanks for watching. When you put the camera in bracketing mode, the Focus Shift shooting option is grayed out. So you cannot bracket while you are focus stacking automatically. I use the sharpest part of my lens, (about two stops over wide open). Yes, I have used it many times for long exposure.
You started at the bottom center of the image & worked up/back to infinity. Can you do the same on each side as well? Would this work if you wanted everything in your image to be tack sharp?
I was going from front (the closest thing in the image) to the back (the farthest thing away from me) to get everything in focus. Side to side may not work by itself and probably wouldn’t help the image be any sharper.
@@stevehaden1392 No I don't. The focus racks out in plains. Think of it as everything at 2 inches in focus. From the left side to the right. Anything 2 inches away will be in focus. Then after the first move, everything at 3 inches is in focus. (soft at 2 inches and soft at 4 inches) the next move, everything is in focus from 4 to 5 inches. (the physical distance of your depth of focus grows as it gets farther away from the camera). Everything in front or behind that focus plain is going soft. Capture all the focus plains and stitch them together and you have a full sharp image.
Nice video! I have a question: when doing a macro, what stops the camera from continuing the stack beyond the subject? (in other words, why does the camera not keeping taking images behind the flower in this case). Hope this makes sense. SM
It makes a lot of sense and this is something you need to deal with. When doing close up, once you get past where you want in focus, you have to stop the camera. Turning off the camera will do the trick, (or pressing the OK button is also suppose to end the stack. The camera is built to shoot until it hits infinity. That could be a lot of wasted shots for close up work. Thanks for watching!
@@tv510 - thanks! (and one more question) - how do you know what its past the subject - is it just the distance on the focus ring, or is there another way? SM
@@stewartmonckton8108 I just watch the back of the camera monitor, not touching the camera, when the image flashes up that is past what I want in focus, I shut it down.
Hi Terry is it possible that i can do the same Focus Staking setup but doing Milky Way night shooting if so would you make a short video explaining how you do it?
Generally the good shots of the milky are done in 2 shots. One for the stars and one for the foreground. You could do the foreground shot stacked like you would do with any landscape. Thanks for the idea, I’ll let you know if if I get one like done soon.
Hi Terry. I wonder if you could help me with this problem. I have gone through the steps you have reccomended but when I press start I get a message come up saying "Cannot start shooting. check the following and try again. Realease mode is highlighted. I'm shooting in manual. My Z9 is set up for back button focusing could this be anything to do with the message I'm getting. I'm really keen to try this it looks great. Many thanks.
One thing that isn't often mentioned in almost all the Focus Shift Shooting videos is that the Nikon Z9 and other Nikon cameras will not perform this function "automatically" with non-Nikon lenses such as the Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro. One other thing, while I'm thinking of it, how do the stacking software handle focus breathing (i.e. pretty good, not so good, etc).
The focus breathing can be an issue, but I found if I start with a wider composition to begin with, then I have had no issues with the change of size in the end. As far as the lens goes, there are some Nikon lenses that don't work well with this. Thankfully the newest 105 micro works well and that's what I use.
One thing I can't quite get my head around with focus stacking with a macro lens is that they show the closest focus distance gives a 1:1 magnification with the magnification becoming less as the focus moves out from the closest distance. How does this effect the final image because surely the subject size is going to shrink between images?
Yes, that can be problematic. However the software does a pretty good job at taking just the focused areas and build it into a new photo. But I have had to go back into Photoshop and do a little work to remove and aberration some times.
Thank you Terry. I have a Z9 and just bought a wide lens so keen to try this techniques with landscapes. I've never done it before. But I have a question. The lens I bought is a Laowa 15mm manual focus lens. Can a manual focus lens such as my Laowa avail of this technique. Secondly, what's the difference between photo stacking and bracketing?
I'm not sure about the Laowa lens working with stacking but I don't think so. Since it's not auto focus, the camera can't tell it to move focus for each shot. You can still create a stack, just not by the camera doing all the precise movements. You can shoot on manual and slightly advance the focus very gingerly as to not move the camera between exposures, and make sure the camera has come to a complete still before shooting the next image in the stack. Total defeats the cool workings of the Z9 but it can be done. I know that stacking worked with lenses that were not Z lenses, but were older "auto focus" lenses by Nikon. As far as the difference in stacking vs bracketing, stacking is changing the focus slightly for each shot, then combining them to make one image with all the sharp parts of each image. Bracketing is changing the exposure for each shot.(Three to five shots) A lot times people will combine those bracketed shots into one images using HDR (Lightroom or Photoshop).
Thank you Terry. That’s very concise, succinct and spot on. As soon as I attach the Laowa (or another manual lens) the focus stacking option is greyed out. Yes as you say I can do it ‘manually’ but that’s very difficult. Thank you again for your guidance on this and bracketing. I wonder why the two can’t be combined…
Thank you Terry. That’s very concise, succinct and spot on. As soon as I attach the Laowa (or another manual lens) the focus stacking option is greyed out. Yes as you say I can do it ‘manually’ but that’s very difficult. Thank you again for your guidance on this and bracketing. I wonder why the two can’t be combined…
Thank you Terry. That’s very concise, succinct and spot on. As soon as I attach the Laowa (or another manual lens) the focus stacking option is greyed out. Yes as you say I can do it ‘manually’ but that’s very difficult. Thank you again for your guidance on this and bracketing. I wonder why the two can’t be combined…
Thank you Terry. That’s very concise, succinct and spot on. As soon as I attach the Laowa (or another manual lens) the focus stacking option is greyed out. Yes as you say I can do it ‘manually’ but that’s very difficult. Thank you again for your guidance on this and bracketing. I wonder why the two can’t be combined…
Enjoyed the video and tips, Terry. When I attempt focus stacking with the Z9 paired to the Nikon AF Micro-NIKKOR 200mm f/4D IF-ED - I go into the settings, and focus stacking is greyed out :( - So I swapped out the lens and tried another macro lens, and it works. So on the surface maybe the D lens does not work with the Z9 for focus stacking. Also when focus stacking are the images captured in RAW or JPEG? Thank you in advance.
I don't have access to the 200 Micro - but that is an older lens, so it may not work. As far as capturing, I always use RAW. It allows me the freedom to tweak the images in Lightroom, (before export to stacking software). Thanks for watching.
@@tv510 I do fear that is the case, as it is an older lens. Allow me to rephrase - Also when focus stacking are the images captured in RAW or JPEG? What I am asking, when using focus stacks is the image output is JPEG or RAW. I read or heard somewhere that when focus stacking, the camera will format the stacked images as JPEG. Sorry for the confusion.
@@getoutsidewithmiguel There may be a function where the camera stacks the images from Jpeg to give you a final jpeg, if there is I don't use it. Like making a time-lapse video. The camera will shoot Jpegs and build you a video. I prefer to shoot RAW and customize it in post. I don't use any function where the camera does that kind of processing. I'll shoot a stack of RAW images and process them myself.
Dear Terry, fantastic video. How do you stack all photos in your software? I am using LR and would ideally like to use a plugin or should by a separate software like Helicon Pro? Thank you and kind regards, Christian
Hi Christian, I use LR to edit the images and choose the images for the stack, then I send them out to Helicon to do the stacking, then back to LR for cataloging and anything else I might need. As a shameless plug for my book, Razor-Sharp Nature Photography (imagelight.com/lightroom-brushes/razor-sharp-wildlife-images) I step-by-step the readers through exactly how I create stacks and using Helicon and Lightroom together. Good luck!
Hi Terry - Nice video, I have a question - if you don't mind. Im trying the focus stack on my Z7 it works but when I have a flash on it fires the flash only on the first images - any suggestions on what to do, so it fires on all. the pictures ?
Terry, Phenomenal video explained for all levels of Nikon digital camera proficiency. I live in a state with an enormous variety of beautiful river landscape opportunities. Could you recommend accessories for a good tripod. Do you have a favorite tripod head type and accessories for a Nikon Z9, especially to photograph portrait and landscape shots on a tripod?
I use primarily Really Right Stuff tripod equipment. I also use a Wimberly Gimbal head for telephoto shots. I have complete breakdown of tripods in my new book - Razor-Sharp Nature Photography. bit.ly/3L7nP3M
Those are quick release tabs for my camera strap. There are times that the camera strap gets in the way and I want to be able to quickly unclip it without going though the hassle of threading it through the eyelets. The Peak design strap has just those clips. Not a sponsor, but I just like the product. Here is a link: bit.ly/3Ui7v4R
Hi David, I keep my camera on BB Focus all the time. I use it to grab the focus at the beginning of a stack. Once you grab the focus, just don't touch the BBF button again, then let the camera do the work from there. I hope this helps.
Hi, thanks for the video. I have used focus stacking professionally for many years in studio setups with static subjects. How does your software handle the running water in your demo setup in the video?
I have done this a couple of ways: One, shooting the stack and and blending them. Sometimes I have to take and layer some single files to get the best looking water. I do that via Photoshop and layer masks.
HI Kimberly, thanks for watching. There are a couple of ways to focus stack. With the Z9 you can have the camera change the focus for you but it has to be a current lens. (Auto focus). If you wanted to use a manual lens, (like I have on my focus rails that I show in the video). You would have to advance the focus manually in between each shot. After the stack is completed, processing is all the same. Good luck!
Do you need stacking at 14 mm? When I use 10 mm Voigtlander lens or the 14-30 Nikkor S lens I get everything in focus in one shot at f8-f11. Yes, at longer focal distance I find it very useful and necessary in “deeper scenes”
I’m shooting at f/5.6 and it takes about 20 shots to get something in focus at a few inches all the way out to infinity. I feel that I am also shooting at the sharpest part of my lens when I am shooting at 5.6. So that is why I use the focus stacking for my “long depth” compositions. I have the time to take the extra steps and I think it makes a difference.
Thanks for the info. Are you using C-AF or S AF? I haven't used the feature yet on my Z9's and raely used it on my D850's, thus I cannot remember. But there will be an occasion where I will. Thanks
I mostly use AF-C assigned to a focus button (back button focus). I find that way I can track a moving animal by holding the button or not touch the button and be locked into manual focus.
Hey Terry - nice video. I've been doing something similar with the Z7II and the results are great. Question for you - How are you dealing with different lighting as you move through the depth of field? Ideally, I'd like to do a AEB stack (+2, 0, -2) at each focus point but I've had to push each raw file in post prior to stacking so I can get just the right exposure but this doesn't protect me from potentially blowing out a shot or under exposing. Interested to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks again.
It would be nice if Nikon would allow us to program in three rapid, bracketed shots, wouldn’t it? I generally like to only use the focus stacking on images that are lit well to start. However, I always shoot RAW, so I do tweak the images as a group before stacking. Syncing all of the RAW processing move I make over all the images in a stack. For all my panoramic images, I do bracket those, then HDR the images, then stitch to a panoramic. Thanks for watching.
@@tv510 I just bought the Z9 and I have four lenses. I can say that I can’t put it down, but the photography technology is very complicated and there are many skills. The necessary learning is very important. Your video content is very professional and very useful for me to improve my technique.
I don't think you can, but you don't really need to. The work around is easy, start the stack with the focus well in front of where you want to start. Press the start button and let it do its thing. Even if you are shooting at a slow shutter speed and first one is all blurry, it doesn't matter. It's going to be out of focus anyway since you started the focus stack closer than what you need. When you go into edit, just throw those first blurry/out of focus images away and just pick the best ones to do the stack.
Great vid Re-Helicon Focus - do you import your photos into LRC first, "fix them" (basic lens corrections, tone etc) and export as TIFs then import them into Helicon OR take the RAW files into Helicon. This worked best for me - even though it takes a little longer. Then with Helicon which of the 3 modes do you find works best for you and does it change depending on what you are shooting?
I do take them into Lightroom first, tweak them, then out as Tiffs over to Helicon. I use the pyramid method in Helicon. It returns a Tiff file to Lightroom and I have already made a smart collection that saves all my Tiff files. This makes it easy to find the stacked image right away. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
After you get the final stacked pictures, how big is the file and do you keep the stacking pictures? I’ve been doing this with my D850 and taking the pictures from LR to PS. The files become huge. I mean huge. I save the stack. (Digital pictures hoarding) great video! Thanks.
I usually save all the images, and the stacked image. In Helicon, it returns a Tiff file that is about as large as any other file. (No layers are saved). I don’t know much about the Photoshop workflow so maybe it saves something extensive. Thanks for watching!
Try Affinity photo's focus stacking is another option. Not bad, not perfect but clean up is fairly easy - You forgot to mention the folder setting in the photo shift menu which is self explanatory...
It may do the stacking for you, but if it does, the images are all done in jpeg. Raw is much more superior in the freedom of editing, so I would never use that feature. Using the raw files is what this video is about to give yourself maximum control and end product.
Does the Z9 do focus stacking in silent mode and in high speed? (thinking on focus stacking on hand instead of tripod) I know it is not optimal but am curious
Yes, the stacking happens silently. The speed however, is dependent on your settings, shutter speed and any delays that you set. I have a friend that hand holds his close up stacks all the time. The software does a pretty good job of aligning. I use a tripod every time for more of a guarantee of sharpness.
I use my camera on AF-C so that is what I use but I don't think it matters. What is important is that your lens can take this kind of direction from the camera body. Some of the older (10+ years ago) lenses may not work with the in camera focus stacking. I hope that helps.
Terry: I have a Z8, but the camera is the same. My question is, I use Photoshop. Please advise the steps to use in Photoshop in lieu of Helicon. Dale Miami
Hi Dale, yes the Z8 is a fantastic camera. I don't use Photoshop for doing my stacking. I do believe there are lot of steps to it though. I will do some research and if I make a video about it, I'll let you know. Sign up for my mailing list - Imagelight.com > free downloads.
WARNING: If you turn on first exposure lock AND you are you using a flash or strobe, the flash will only fire for the first shot, and none of the next shots. Turn this off if you need a flash on every shot.
Hi Gary, It looks like the three versions, Lite, Pro and Premium have some different features. The main feature of the Pro includes Helicon Remote - which allows the user to tether their Nikon or Canon to the software. While I have the Pro Package, I have not uses this feature yet. Another attraction is the RAW in and DNG out, meaning you output your final stacked images in DNG for more processing if you want. There are a few other features worth looking at. The premium in addition to pro, it just allows you to use the program with mobile devices, that's not of interest to me at this time. When I first used Helicon, I bought the one year license, to see if I would like/use it. Shortly after, I bought the lifetime version because I use it so often and love it. Good luck.
So far i'm struggling to get anywhere near the quality of manual focus stacking from the in camera stacking. Maybe the next gen focus shift will be better...🦘
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I have viewed your other videos. You are not only a great photographer but a great teacher as well. The pacing of your speaking is neither fast nor slow and just perfectly right for every non-English native speaker. Unfortunately, I could not afford the Z9 camera. I am not sure if the other cheaper Nikon mirrorless cameras have the same stack-shooting capability as the Z9. Thanks for your time showing us how to.
Thanks for watching my videos Virgil. I have used the D850 (up until the Z9) and it has a focus stack feature. It's not quite as fancy, but works great if you are still using DSLR. I'd be surprised if Nikon doesn't have this on every camera going forward as well.
Totally 100% agree. I have been watching photography streams since 2005 and the style is spot on. My new found mentor!
As an imminent Z9 owner you have created a video that's informative and straight to the point. This will be a massive help to me as I get to grips with the Z9's capabilities. Many thanks!!
Thank you, you are going to love shooting with the Z9. Thanks again.
I love the focus stack feature on Nikon Cameras. Great tutorials Terry. Thank you
Isn't it great! Love this stuff!
Thank's for the video. When shooting Focus shift (as Nikon calls it) using a Z-lens, there's one more option. If you take e.g. 10 shots and then display the latest picture, press "i", go to the bottom, and select "View..." you get an outlined b/w picture of all the 10 shots. If you find out that it's not enough, just take 10 more pictures and continue from where the focus stopped after the first series. But viewing the result this way only works with Z-lenses, and with the option "Peaking Stack Image" enabled in the Focus shift shooting menu.
You set the focus step to "1". That is always a good setting. If you use more focus steps between the pictures, be aware that different lenses move the focus point different distances for the same setting. It can differ up to three times between a MC Z 105mm and a Z 24-200mm (when it's set to 105 mm focus length). The Z 105 seems to have three times more steps than the "cheaper" lenses.
Wow, Patrick, thank you so much for the tips. I'm going to try that out. Much appreciated.
Thanks!
Sorry I didn't see this until now, Thank you very much!
This has to be the best video I’ve seen on this subject…and I’ve watched a ton! Very clear and logical progression through the steps.
Sadly my D500 doesn’t have this feature 😢 so manual stacking is my only option.
Thank you! There is a product from Helicon that works with Nikon and a newer Macro lens. It does the focus changes for your. I think its called and FB Tube. It's an extension tube so you can only use it for close up, but it works really well. Here is a link: www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-fb-tube/
Terry I just discovered your RUclips channel. This was an excellent video. Thank you.
Awesome! Glad you like them. More to come.
Terry. Excellent video. Thank you. Can you share the model information on the tripod you used in the stream, the one that almost opens flat at ground level? Cheers.
Hi Andy, that is the RRS (Really Right Stuff) tripod, versa 3. I don't have any affiliation with them but here is the link: reallyrightstuff.com/tvc/
Thanks for this helpful video! I just got a new Z8! I am still confused about how to determine what to set FOCUS STACKED WIDTH. I’d appreciate any additional guidance you can provide! Thanks so much!
Hi Randy. The Width coincides with your aperture setting. If you shoot at f/16 you can shoot LESS shots in your stack. If you shoot at f/8 you will need more shots than if you were shooting at f/16. However, I like to set this width at 1 the most narrow setting. That way if I am shooting at f/4 or 5.6 - I know I will be covered and that I am shooting the lens at its most optimum setting for best sharpness. If you don't mind having more shots in your stack, make the setting 1 for the narrowest movement of focus changes. I hope this helps.
@@tv510 Thanks! That’s crystal clear and helps a lot! HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Thank you for a very informative video. I am still a bit puzzled about how many shots to set and how the camera determines where to end the process. For example, if I have a flower that is about 3 inches deep from the closest point to the end of what I want in focus, how do I determine how many shots are needed. Likewise, if I am focus stacking a landscape that may be hundreds of yards deep, how can I tell the camera how many shots to take and what is the distance interval between shots. Thank you in advance for your reply.
Hi Gary, When photographing landscapes, the camera will stop when it gets to infinity. So no issue there, set it and it will stop. When working with close-up, I set mine for the max amount of shots (200?) , I always start well be for what I want in focus and then I watch the monitor to see the progression, when it starts focusing on things way in the background (that I don't need) and has covered everything I want in focus, I just turn the camera off - that stops the focus stack. Those are my solutions, hope they work for you.
@@tv510 Thank you for getting back to me, Terry. I watched a couple of other videos and I think I may have found the answer and would appreciate your thoughts. Setting the width to "1" and the number of shots to the maximum would work for small items such as flowers with the first shot as you suggested. For landscapes, I would set the width to "10" with the maximum number of shots. Do I have that right? In my head, I am asking what determines the number of shots the camera will capture for a flower and what determines the number of shots the camera will capture for a landscape? Thanks, again.
@@garyaltoonian783 You can do that extra step if you want, but I don't change it. Let's say I'm working with a landscape and a wide angle lens. To move from the front focus point to infinity (camera set on f/5.6 - Sharpest set up for your lens) it will take about 7 shots. I keep everything on maximums and that way I don't have make any changes if I am shooting an insect or a waterfall. Go outside and give it a try. It should work fine and stop when you are done.
@@tv510 Thanks again for your help. I think I have my question answered. It took another view of your video and playing with a macro lens (that just arrived today). Even though I am not a wildlife photographer, I have subscribed because your tips are translatable. Thanks for taking the time to prepare your videos.
Finally a great video about focus stacking and Z9!!!!
Thanks Daniel, for checking it out! I chose Helicon over Photoshop because I thought it just worked, faster, better. I'm all about saving some time or upping my quality.
This is an excellent video. I’ve had my Z9 since January and have been wanting to try this. Thanks for explaining how to do it.
Thank you!
very detailed, thank you. Question, at 10:00 you state ". the exposure throughout your stack i however leave this off because i'm mostly shooting in manual mode so it doesn't matter at that point but if you're going to be shooting in one of the auto exposure modes this is a good option to have on now you're ready to go to make your first in-camera focus stack ..." but I don't see where you are setting or getting the in-camera stacked image. Is this truly in camera focus stacking? or just in-cccccccccccccccccccocus bracketing with software needed to do the focus stacking?
Hi Lisa, So the way this procedure works is you are telling the camera to create all these images. Then with those images, (best to use RAW) those images go into a focus stack software like the one I use Helicon. Does that answer your question?
@@tv510 Thank you Terry. I was under the impression, from the use of "make your first in-camera focus stack" that the camera stacked them (Olympus cameras stack in cameras, and now some of the mirrorless Canon 5 and 6 cameras do as well). Good to know that the camera focus brackets and software is needed
Really good video, Terry! I just subscribed to your channel, so keep up the good work!
Thank you for watching!
Outstanding, and thank you. I’ll put this one in the Z9 Repository thread in the Nikon forum of FM Forum Fred Miranda. 🙂
I appreciate it!
Terry Vander Heiden thank you so much I am learning from you and I really like your video and your photos
Excellent, that is all I can ask. Thanks for watching.
@@tv510 And thank you so much for teaching people how to use cameras How to set up cameras How to use lenses In general, super films are very pleasant to watch
Awesome video, I need to find more of your work. I do have a point of confusion though A couple times including at 12:50 you say you get your exposure, then flip it to manual so the exposure doesn’t change. What exactly are you flipping to manual? Isn’t the Z9 all manual? Also, there is a setting that will do this in the focus shift shooting selections, why not rely on that?
When I say "flip to manual". What I do is start the shoot in "A" automatic exposure mode. This gives me the average exposure for the scene. Then I change to "M" and input those setting in. Now I have my exposure that will not change. I'm just referencing the exposure mode. And no, the Z9 has many automatic settings that are really useful.
@@tv510 thanks for your help. I cannot find an “A” auto exposure mode. There is “P” programmed auto, “A” aperture priority, “S” shutter priority and “M” manual. I get the concept of letting the camera take a first stab at the settings but I am trying to see what I am missing in my understanding of my Z9. Thanks for your help with that!
@@larry6700 My bad, A for Aperture priority. I seldom use "S" shutter speed priority and never use the "P" mode. (I don't like to surrender that much control over to the camera.) 😀
@@tv510 thanks!
Thanks for explaining this so clearly.
You are welcome Marga!
Hi Terry
Great video, i have the z9 but when i use back button focus it doesn’t seem to work ?
I use the back slash keyboard button. Thanks for watching.
Is there any way to start the focus stack with a delay or a remote release? Having to press the start button to commence focus stacking could cause unintentional movement or vibration.
I haven't tried a remote because if you start your first focus point early, (those are throw out images anyway) then all the vibrations will settle down once the the useable images are being captured. Good luck!
Excellent video now please explain the 3 levels of purchase for the three levels of the program that you use.
Not sure what you mean.
Terry, great video. Let me ask a dumb question- how does the Z9 know when it ha gotten to the back of your close up image?
Thanks for watching. The answer is that it keeps shooting until the camera senses the lens has reached infinity. Hope that helps.
@@tv510 Yeah, I got that, but when you have that flower in your studio, the camera will never sense infinity. It will eventually get to your backdrop. Does it just quit then when it can’t fin anything beyond that?
@@drferry If you are using the Z9 for stacking landscape images, then it will stop at infinity no problem. If you are doing close up, it will stop, but it will churn out a lot of wasted images as it makes its way to infinity. (well past anything you want in focus. I prefer to watch my close up images and as it gets the last thing I want in focus (checking out the monitor as the images flash by) I let it go a few more shots and then stop it myself.
Nice Terry, maybe I sound foolish but I really don't understand the part of taking a photo of your finger to identify the first and last shot, can't we recognize them by file numbers. Once again thanks for educating us.
When I am are doing a focus stack, say, in a landscape I might shoot 20 photos of each scene. Then I might change the exposure and start the stack again. Then I might slightly change the composition. After all these shots I end up with hundreds of images that look pretty much the same. I’d have to look closely as them to determine which image is the first and last shot of a stack. When I shoot a shot of my fingers before and after it helps me determine the first and last shot of a stack. While viewing them in Lightroom, I can instantly see where a stack begins and ends. If I were to use file numbers, I’d have to stop while I was shooting and write down somewhere, that a stack starts with (file number) and ends with (different file number). Does that make sense?
This was about creating the source images, not the final image which was shown briefly and quickly being created in LR. Maybe you could talk through that part of it also.
Thanks Roger, I'll put that on my list. I appreciate the suggestion.
instead of shooting your hand to denote a new stack, just enable the "starting storage folder" option in the stacking menu. It will create a new folder and put the images in it for each stacking session. Simple
Thanks for the tip. I’ve not used that feature. I guess when loaded into Lightroom, the images will be designated somehow, I’ll have to give it a try.
Great video! Thanks for explaining it so well. How is 5.6 two stops from 2.8 though? Sorry, I'm F-stop noob.
Hi Pharaoh, thanks for watching. Traditionally the aperture ring has numbers on it - that are called f/stops. Typically they would read f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16. Sometimes the lens will start with a lower number and even go higher - such as f/22, f/29... Each number indicates a full f stop. If the widest part of your lens starts at f/2.8 then two stops over the widest would be f/5.6 - 2.8 - 4 (one stop) 5.6 (two stops). I hope this helps!
@@tv510 I appreciate your reply, thanks! It helps a bit. I have two 2.8 lenses that go to 3.5 when I push two stops. Are these half stops or just unusual lenses?
@@PharaohMan007 That might be the clicks in the dial, but it is not full stops. Two full stops will be at 5.6 no matter the lens. One thing to consider, is you may have lenses with variable f/stops. Usually these are zoom lenses that the widest f/stop will vary- depending on the focal length you have chosen. Example; When a zoom lens is set at 18mm it might be 2.8 is your widest aperture but if zoomed out to 70mm the widest will be 5.6. Good luck!
@@tv510 I had no idea about variable aperatures. Thanks so much for explaining that!
Hello. Thank you for this excellent video.
I have a question regarding the automatic focus stacking option in Z9. If a macro lens is attached and this auto focus stacking option is activated, won't the camera keep firing on it till infinity is reached? And if that happens, won't the excellent blurred background be lost? Please elaborate on this.
Thanks again.
So what I do is let the stack reach the end of the subject and then shut off the camera (or turn off the stacking program -. OK) That way the background is preserved and not too many useless images aren't created. Hope that helps.
非常感谢您的讲解，我一开始对这个技术不理解，通过您的视频，我明白了通过切换焦点拍摄不同的照片，最后将全部照片合成为一张照片，这样就把不同焦点最清晰的影像信息集合到了一张图片上。杂志上的超清晰图片就是在一个稳定的三脚架上使用这个技术实现的。我的理解对吗？
Yes, looks like you are understanding. Keep practicing.
Hi Terry just come across this video on focus stacking and found it very useful. I have Z9 as well but found on one shooting menu the focus stacking option is available but it’s greyed out on my other shooting menu, just wondered if you had any thoughts, thanks.
Hi Steven, thanks for watching. If you have your camera set for "bracketing" then the focus shift will not be available. That is where I have seen it. Because you can't tell the camera to focus shift AND bracket the exposures at the same time. This might also occur if you have your camera set on HDR - but I don't use that feature, so I haven't seen it.
its like on the 850 not repeatable. you have to touch the cam for every stack. at least auto return to start and cable release would be nice.
I am usually changing my composition between stacks and resetting my first focus point so no need for an auto return. I set up, then I just go to my My Menu, hit Focus Shift Shooting and hit Start. It goes pretty quick.
Thanks for this excellent video.. really informative..
Thanks for watching Steven!
Thanks for the excellent content of this video. In using Z9 for photo stacking do you have to put the camera in bracketing mode? and what F stop do you normally use? Can you use focus stacking technique for long exposure shoot?
HI Kareem, Thanks for watching. When you put the camera in bracketing mode, the Focus Shift shooting option is grayed out. So you cannot bracket while you are focus stacking automatically. I use the sharpest part of my lens, (about two stops over wide open). Yes, I have used it many times for long exposure.
You started at the bottom center of the image & worked up/back to infinity. Can you do the same on each side as well? Would this work if you wanted everything in your image to be tack sharp?
I was going from front (the closest thing in the image) to the back (the farthest thing away from me) to get everything in focus. Side to side may not work by itself and probably wouldn’t help the image be any sharper.
@@tv510 Do you have any focus falloff on the sides, when you do your stack , front to back in the center?
@@stevehaden1392 No I don't. The focus racks out in plains. Think of it as everything at 2 inches in focus. From the left side to the right. Anything 2 inches away will be in focus. Then after the first move, everything at 3 inches is in focus. (soft at 2 inches and soft at 4 inches) the next move, everything is in focus from 4 to 5 inches. (the physical distance of your depth of focus grows as it gets farther away from the camera). Everything in front or behind that focus plain is going soft. Capture all the focus plains and stitch them together and you have a full sharp image.
@@tv510 Thank you, sir!
Nice video! I have a question: when doing a macro, what stops the camera from continuing the stack beyond the subject? (in other words, why does the camera not keeping taking images behind the flower in this case). Hope this makes sense. SM
It makes a lot of sense and this is something you need to deal with. When doing close up, once you get past where you want in focus, you have to stop the camera. Turning off the camera will do the trick, (or pressing the OK button is also suppose to end the stack. The camera is built to shoot until it hits infinity. That could be a lot of wasted shots for close up work. Thanks for watching!
@@tv510 - thanks! (and one more question) - how do you know what its past the subject - is it just the distance on the focus ring, or is there another way? SM
@@stewartmonckton8108 I just watch the back of the camera monitor, not touching the camera, when the image flashes up that is past what I want in focus, I shut it down.
Hi Terry is it possible that i can do the same Focus Staking setup but doing Milky Way night shooting if so would you make a short video explaining how you do it?
Generally the good shots of the milky are done in 2 shots. One for the stars and one for the foreground. You could do the foreground shot stacked like you would do with any landscape. Thanks for the idea, I’ll let you know if if I get one like done soon.
Thank you for sharing excellent knowhow
No problem Samaresh. Thanks for watching.
Hi Terry. I wonder if you could help me with this problem. I have gone through the steps you have reccomended but when I press start I get a message come up saying "Cannot start shooting. check the following and try again. Realease mode is highlighted. I'm shooting in manual. My Z9 is set up for back button focusing could this be anything to do with the message I'm getting. I'm really keen to try this it looks great. Many thanks.
I'n not sure if I answered this and I know its late but if you have your camera on auto bracketing, the focus stack won't work.
@@tv510 No Problem Terry, I found that It also won't work in manual or if the timer is on which is what I was doing. :)
@@wizard6207 Good to know. Thanks!
One thing that isn't often mentioned in almost all the Focus Shift Shooting videos is that the Nikon Z9 and other Nikon cameras will not perform this function "automatically" with non-Nikon lenses such as the Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro. One other thing, while I'm thinking of it, how do the stacking software handle focus breathing (i.e. pretty good, not so good, etc).
The focus breathing can be an issue, but I found if I start with a wider composition to begin with, then I have had no issues with the change of size in the end. As far as the lens goes, there are some Nikon lenses that don't work well with this. Thankfully the newest 105 micro works well and that's what I use.
One thing I can't quite get my head around with focus stacking with a macro lens is that they show the closest focus distance gives a 1:1 magnification with the magnification becoming less as the focus moves out from the closest distance. How does this effect the final image because surely the subject size is going to shrink between images?
Yes, that can be problematic. However the software does a pretty good job at taking just the focused areas and build it into a new photo. But I have had to go back into Photoshop and do a little work to remove and aberration some times.
Thank you Terry. I have a Z9 and just bought a wide lens so keen to try this techniques with landscapes. I've never done it before. But I have a question. The lens I bought is a Laowa 15mm manual focus lens. Can a manual focus lens such as my Laowa avail of this technique. Secondly, what's the difference between photo stacking and bracketing?
I'm not sure about the Laowa lens working with stacking but I don't think so. Since it's not auto focus, the camera can't tell it to move focus for each shot. You can still create a stack, just not by the camera doing all the precise movements. You can shoot on manual and slightly advance the focus very gingerly as to not move the camera between exposures, and make sure the camera has come to a complete still before shooting the next image in the stack. Total defeats the cool workings of the Z9 but it can be done. I know that stacking worked with lenses that were not Z lenses, but were older "auto focus" lenses by Nikon.
As far as the difference in stacking vs bracketing, stacking is changing the focus slightly for each shot, then combining them to make one image with all the sharp parts of each image. Bracketing is changing the exposure for each shot.(Three to five shots) A lot times people will combine those bracketed shots into one images using HDR (Lightroom or Photoshop).
Thank you Terry. That’s very concise, succinct and spot on. As soon as I attach the Laowa (or another manual lens) the focus stacking option is greyed out. Yes as you say I can do it ‘manually’ but that’s very difficult. Thank you again for your guidance on this and bracketing. I wonder why the two can’t be combined…
Thank you Terry. That’s very concise, succinct and spot on. As soon as I attach the Laowa (or another manual lens) the focus stacking option is greyed out. Yes as you say I can do it ‘manually’ but that’s very difficult. Thank you again for your guidance on this and bracketing. I wonder why the two can’t be combined…
Thank you Terry. That’s very concise, succinct and spot on. As soon as I attach the Laowa (or another manual lens) the focus stacking option is greyed out. Yes as you say I can do it ‘manually’ but that’s very difficult. Thank you again for your guidance on this and bracketing. I wonder why the two can’t be combined…
Thank you Terry. That’s very concise, succinct and spot on. As soon as I attach the Laowa (or another manual lens) the focus stacking option is greyed out. Yes as you say I can do it ‘manually’ but that’s very difficult. Thank you again for your guidance on this and bracketing. I wonder why the two can’t be combined…
Enjoyed the video and tips, Terry. When I attempt focus stacking with the Z9 paired to the Nikon AF Micro-NIKKOR 200mm f/4D IF-ED - I go into the settings, and focus stacking is greyed out :( - So I swapped out the lens and tried another macro lens, and it works. So on the surface maybe the D lens does not work with the Z9 for focus stacking. Also when focus stacking are the images captured in RAW or JPEG? Thank you in advance.
I don't have access to the 200 Micro - but that is an older lens, so it may not work. As far as capturing, I always use RAW. It allows me the freedom to tweak the images in Lightroom, (before export to stacking software). Thanks for watching.
@@tv510 I do fear that is the case, as it is an older lens. Allow me to rephrase - Also when focus stacking are the images captured in RAW or JPEG? What I am asking, when using focus stacks is the image output is JPEG or RAW. I read or heard somewhere that when focus stacking, the camera will format the stacked images as JPEG. Sorry for the confusion.
@@getoutsidewithmiguel There may be a function where the camera stacks the images from Jpeg to give you a final jpeg, if there is I don't use it. Like making a time-lapse video. The camera will shoot Jpegs and build you a video. I prefer to shoot RAW and customize it in post. I don't use any function where the camera does that kind of processing. I'll shoot a stack of RAW images and process them myself.
Dear Terry, fantastic video. How do you stack all photos in your software? I am using LR and would ideally like to use a plugin or should by a separate software like Helicon Pro? Thank you and kind regards, Christian
Hi Christian, I use LR to edit the images and choose the images for the stack, then I send them out to Helicon to do the stacking, then back to LR for cataloging and anything else I might need. As a shameless plug for my book, Razor-Sharp Nature Photography (imagelight.com/lightroom-brushes/razor-sharp-wildlife-images) I step-by-step the readers through exactly how I create stacks and using Helicon and Lightroom together. Good luck!
@@tv510 Thank you, Terry!
@@tv510 FYI Terry, that link is broken
@@CincyKid Thanks Fred. Here is the link to my book: imagelight.com/lightroom-brushes/razor-sharp-wildlife-images
@@tv510 got it, will read tomorrow!
Thanks for the video. What about the focus breathing of F mount lenses? Would be better to use Z mount lenses or the results will be the same?
I haven't done side-by-side tests with the Z lenses. But I should start getting some and I'll check that out.
Hi Terry - Nice video, I have a question - if you don't mind. Im trying the focus stack on my Z7 it works but when I have a flash on it fires the flash only on the first images - any suggestions on what to do, so it fires on all. the pictures ?
Check to see if silent photography is on.
Terry,
Phenomenal video explained for all levels of Nikon digital camera proficiency. I live in a state with an enormous variety of beautiful river landscape opportunities. Could you recommend accessories for a good tripod. Do you have a favorite tripod head type and accessories for a Nikon Z9, especially to photograph portrait and landscape shots on a tripod?
I use primarily Really Right Stuff tripod equipment. I also use a Wimberly Gimbal head for telephoto shots. I have complete breakdown of tripods in my new book - Razor-Sharp Nature Photography. bit.ly/3L7nP3M
what are the red things dangling from the strap connectors?
Those are quick release tabs for my camera strap. There are times that the camera strap gets in the way and I want to be able to quickly unclip it without going though the hassle of threading it through the eyelets. The Peak design strap has just those clips. Not a sponsor, but I just like the product. Here is a link: bit.ly/3Ui7v4R
Can Back button focus work in focus shift shooting? Or does that need to be changed back to the shutter button?
Hi David, I keep my camera on BB Focus all the time. I use it to grab the focus at the beginning of a stack. Once you grab the focus, just don't touch the BBF button again, then let the camera do the work from there. I hope this helps.
@@tv510 perfect. Thx
Hi, thanks for the video. I have used focus stacking professionally for many years in studio setups with static subjects. How does your software handle the running water in your demo setup in the video?
I have done this a couple of ways: One, shooting the stack and and blending them. Sometimes I have to take and layer some single files to get the best looking water. I do that via Photoshop and layer masks.
Nice Video..Greetings from Germany
Excellent. Germany is on my list of goto locations. Thanks for watching.
Does it matter if the lens you are using is a manual focus lens or af lens?
HI Kimberly, thanks for watching. There are a couple of ways to focus stack. With the Z9 you can have the camera change the focus for you but it has to be a current lens. (Auto focus). If you wanted to use a manual lens, (like I have on my focus rails that I show in the video). You would have to advance the focus manually in between each shot. After the stack is completed, processing is all the same. Good luck!
I'm thinking you need to update for Firmware V3
Thanks Dave!
Really nice video! Thank you Terry! Tech these days...we are spoiled :)
Ha, isn’t that the truth!
Do you need stacking at 14 mm? When I use 10 mm Voigtlander lens or the 14-30 Nikkor S lens I get everything in focus in one shot at f8-f11. Yes, at longer focal distance I find it very useful and necessary in “deeper scenes”
I’m shooting at f/5.6 and it takes about 20 shots to get something in focus at a few inches all the way out to infinity. I feel that I am also shooting at the sharpest part of my lens when I am shooting at 5.6. So that is why I use the focus stacking for my “long depth” compositions. I have the time to take the extra steps and I think it makes a difference.
Thanks for the info. Are you using C-AF or S AF? I haven't used the feature yet on my Z9's and raely used it on my D850's, thus I cannot remember. But there will be an occasion where I will. Thanks
I mostly use AF-C assigned to a focus button (back button focus). I find that way I can track a moving animal by holding the button or not touch the button and be locked into manual focus.
Hey Terry - nice video. I've been doing something similar with the Z7II and the results are great.
Question for you - How are you dealing with different lighting as you move through the depth of field? Ideally, I'd like to do a AEB stack (+2, 0, -2) at each focus point but I've had to push each raw file in post prior to stacking so I can get just the right exposure but this doesn't protect me from potentially blowing out a shot or under exposing. Interested to hear your thoughts on this.
Thanks again.
It would be nice if Nikon would allow us to program in three rapid, bracketed shots, wouldn’t it? I generally like to only use the focus stacking on images that are lit well to start. However, I always shoot RAW, so I do tweak the images as a group before stacking. Syncing all of the RAW processing move I make over all the images in a stack. For all my panoramic images, I do bracket those, then HDR the images, then stitch to a panoramic. Thanks for watching.
@@tv510 再次感谢，您是我的老师。
@@HungerJohn glad you like the videos!
@@tv510 I just bought the Z9 and I have four lenses. I can say that I can’t put it down, but the photography technology is very complicated and there are many skills. The necessary learning is very important. Your video content is very professional and very useful for me to improve my technique.
@@HungerJohn Glad they are working for you!
Is the camera able to render the stack internally and save as a jpeg?
I haven't seen that. Because I seldom shoot in jpeg, I wouldn't want that as a feature anyway.
can you use self timer to start the stack? i tried but got error message (wrong drive mode)
I don't think you can, but you don't really need to. The work around is easy, start the stack with the focus well in front of where you want to start. Press the start button and let it do its thing. Even if you are shooting at a slow shutter speed and first one is all blurry, it doesn't matter. It's going to be out of focus anyway since you started the focus stack closer than what you need. When you go into edit, just throw those first blurry/out of focus images away and just pick the best ones to do the stack.
Great vid
Re-Helicon Focus - do you import your photos into LRC first, "fix them" (basic lens corrections, tone etc) and export as TIFs then import them into Helicon OR take the RAW files into Helicon. This worked best for me - even though it takes a little longer.
Then with Helicon which of the 3 modes do you find works best for you and does it change depending on what you are shooting?
I do take them into Lightroom first, tweak them, then out as Tiffs over to Helicon. I use the pyramid method in Helicon. It returns a Tiff file to Lightroom and I have already made a smart collection that saves all my Tiff files. This makes it easy to find the stacked image right away. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
After you get the final stacked pictures, how big is the file and do you keep the stacking pictures? I’ve been doing this with my D850 and taking the pictures from LR to PS. The files become huge. I mean huge. I save the stack. (Digital pictures hoarding) great video! Thanks.
I usually save all the images, and the stacked image. In Helicon, it returns a Tiff file that is about as large as any other file. (No layers are saved). I don’t know much about the Photoshop workflow so maybe it saves something extensive. Thanks for watching!
Try Affinity photo's focus stacking is another option. Not bad, not perfect but clean up is fairly easy - You forgot to mention the folder setting in the photo shift menu which is self explanatory...
Hi, doesn't the Z9 do focus stacking in the camera itself, like Olympus does?
Do I have to do it later in Photoshop?
It may do the stacking for you, but if it does, the images are all done in jpeg. Raw is much more superior in the freedom of editing, so I would never use that feature. Using the raw files is what this video is about to give yourself maximum control and end product.
Does the Z9 do focus stacking in silent mode and in high speed? (thinking on focus stacking on hand instead of tripod) I know it is not optimal but am curious
Yes, the stacking happens silently. The speed however, is dependent on your settings, shutter speed and any delays that you set. I have a friend that hand holds his close up stacks all the time. The software does a pretty good job of aligning. I use a tripod every time for more of a guarantee of sharpness.
@@tv510 R=Thank you for the reply. great video btw
@@federicoaranda3039 You are welcome!
Thank you, That helps.
You're welcome!
Got, thank you so much.
Thanks for watching!
Good video. I've been using my Z9 for I've a month and it's a been of a camera
Thanks, I love mine.
Great instructions EXCEPT for the annoying nonmusic . You voice is just fine.
Ha, I was told about that before, so I stopped with the background music. Thanks again for the reminder.
Does your Auto-Focus mode matter? Did you use AF-S?
I use my camera on AF-C so that is what I use but I don't think it matters. What is important is that your lens can take this kind of direction from the camera body. Some of the older (10+ years ago) lenses may not work with the in camera focus stacking. I hope that helps.
Terry:
I have a Z8, but the camera is the same. My question is, I use Photoshop. Please advise the steps to use in Photoshop in lieu of Helicon.
Dale
Miami
Hi Dale, yes the Z8 is a fantastic camera. I don't use Photoshop for doing my stacking. I do believe there are lot of steps to it though. I will do some research and if I make a video about it, I'll let you know. Sign up for my mailing list - Imagelight.com > free downloads.
Thank you
You're welcome Terekki!
Why Would you chose Helicon over Photohop?
I picked Helicon because I thought it was easier to work with and it does a great job.
Never knew why one should not shoot above F8
WARNING: If you turn on first exposure lock AND you are you using a flash or strobe, the flash will only fire for the first shot, and none of the next shots. Turn this off if you need a flash on every shot.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
HelconSoft comes in 3 different versions what is the difference and which did you purchase Lite
Pro package
Premium package
Hi Gary, It looks like the three versions, Lite, Pro and Premium have some different features. The main feature of the Pro includes Helicon Remote - which allows the user to tether their Nikon or Canon to the software. While I have the Pro Package, I have not uses this feature yet. Another attraction is the RAW in and DNG out, meaning you output your final stacked images in DNG for more processing if you want. There are a few other features worth looking at. The premium in addition to pro, it just allows you to use the program with mobile devices, that's not of interest to me at this time. When I first used Helicon, I bought the one year license, to see if I would like/use it. Shortly after, I bought the lifetime version because I use it so often and love it. Good luck.
So far i'm struggling to get anywhere near the quality of manual focus stacking from the in camera stacking.
Maybe the next gen focus shift will be better...🦘
I have found it to work great, but everyone has their own workflow that does the trick for their own images. Good luck.
Thanks so much!
You're welcome!