ANENG, the Fluke Killer (insulation test)
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- After one year of several use
• Aneng 8002 after a yea...
The Aneng on industrial area: • Aneng 8002 on a seriou...
This video test is not exhaustive! It concern principaly the test I was curious about.
Aneng make serious multimeter, as good as the famous brand.
I make a short test to prove they have nothing to envy to their master.
These are definitely not a “replacement for high cost multimeters”, as they lack the necessary safety protections. However, they are a very nice option for hobbyists and home/auto repair, for use in lower voltage scenarios where a cheap meter does not present a safety risk. As with any tool, always use the right tool for the job.
you're perfectly right. I use my anengs for troubleshooting until 400V. Never more.
Anyway, they are cheap, light, quick. No matters if you lose one.
The new version of the 8002 is unbelievable. 2 or 3 time faster than a fluke. Thanks for commenting.
Hardly a Fluke killer, but for anyone who only measures lower voltages regularly, these are surprisingly good. Fluke has rightfully earned its reputation as one of the best multimeter manufacturers out there. Personally, I use two Brymens - a BM829s at home, and a BM257s at work. I generally deal with low voltages but having the other features and robustness are useful.
@Brian Thompson hello. I have a Unit 181A, a Grenlee 200A, fluke 115, Fluke 189, Fluke 87V, a Fluke 289 and a Brymen 857s. They are perfect and I use it currently on my bench. But for working I use a Aneng 8002 since 4 years now. No one of all those multimeters can replace it. Price, reliability, accuracy, light... So, if it's hardly a Fluke killer for you, I can tell it's the case for me. But so, everybody should find his advantage on this deal. Thanks for your comment.
For me, the Aneng is also a Fluke killer. Compact, accurate, easy, inexpensive to replace (if it should break). On top of it, I just received a safety recall for my Fluke 87V. Some kind of connector problem. My only dislike for the Aneng is the soft plastic screen. It easily scratches.
Thanks a lot for sharing this great review, you are easy to understand and explain everything that I needed to know!
Fried Mule hello thanks for your comment. Aneng is not perfect, but it helps a lot.To have a Aneng doesn't mean it's forbidden to have a Fluke, and vice versa. Glad you like this, thanks.
@@AIexanderHartdegen Completely right, I think of 8008 as a great little cheap meter that i can use where where my Brymen is not necessary and can be used better in other places.
i just received my an8008, it really makes up for my vc99 2mF range capacitance measurement and lag of backlight.
but vc99 and other silmilar price range meters do use purpose multimeter chipset, which is alway nice to see.
still its crazy how they can make auto ranging meter at this spec + accessories + shipment at $16 and still make a profit.
we are agree, thanks for your comment.
Hands down one of the best multimeters to work on cars.
If you are a DIY you can't go wrong.
If you are an electrician and work on homes and things with a high voltage a Fluke its the way to go.
Ultimately it is a budget friendly multimeter.
high voltage is more than 999V. I know nobody working on this voltage range. All voltage under 1000 is considered as low voltage.
@@AIexanderHartdegen “All voltage under 1000 is considered as low voltage.” That’s not necessarily true. There are many definitions of high voltage, low voltage, moderate voltage, etc. According to NIST, moderate voltage is between 120 and 1000. According to ANSI, low voltage is defined as 240 to 600 V, medium voltage as 2.4 to 69kV, and high voltage as 115 kV to 230 kV. In automotive engineering, high voltage is defined as voltage in the range of 30 to 1000 VAC or 60 to 1500 VDC. Numerous definitions also use different values for AC versus DC.
All that aside, I think you’re missing the point of the OP’s comment, which is that this type of meter is simply not considered safe enough when working with potentially higher levels of energy than one might typically find in cars and DIY projects around the home. And I wholeheartedly agree with that. While I have some cheap meters for convenience, they’re not the meters I’m going to use if I am working on the junction box in my home. For me, the mains wall outlet voltage and current is about the most I would risk with these meters, and even in that situation I’m more likely to reach for something more substantial than a $25 meter. When it comes to electricity, you only have to lose once and it’s permanently over.
Super thank you I must say that it works well this multimeter I have one but it is at the level of the protection against a bad measurement that they are more fragile than a Fluke, if you measure a current of 400mA for example and that you are on the 200mA position a fluke will resist and will tell you to change the scale an ANENG will be out of order on this measurement and definitively. Thank you for sharing.
the aneng 8008 is able to support 10A on his mA caliber and Aneng 8002 can support 1A on mA caliber. Fluke can give you more confiance, and reliability. But I think Aneng are not so bad, for the price. Thanks for commenting.
Merci pour votre test. Et en anglais, s'il vous plaît, c'est tellement rare pour un français :)
Bonne continuation
j'essaie d''être universel. Mais c'est pas évident, l'anglais n'est pas une langue utilisée tous les jours chez moi, ça me demande des efforts considérables, surtout sur une vidéo, où les jugements sont un peu facile. Merci pour votre commentaire.
What price do you put on life? I think that if I was about to work on some high voltage or high current circuits that I would be investing in a brand name meter every time. This test is not sufficient to prove to me that these cheap meters are safe to use under those conditions. However they are perfectly fine for low voltage and low current applications the accuracy at those ranges is phenomenal for the price.
don't buy it thanks
I think you missed the point. I have one, I just don't use it on high voltage or high current and I don't think that your testing is sufficient for you to recommend it for such uses. Somebody could get seriously hurt or die.
John Jones hi; please let me explain to you some things. You are talking about " high voltage" and " high current". You need to know than high voltage is the name of range of voltage wich are higher than 1000V. Current is not measurable with this device, unless if you are regarding about somes amps.
There is no multimeters able to measure high voltage. Do you mean main voltage?
Lot's of people talk about " high voltage" for talking about main voltage. Anyway, you will not have more security on any device, including "fluke", or any another chinese brand.
Lot's of high brand are protected against explosion, protecting the user.
But I guess you are talking about electrocution.
If you talk about voltage higher than 1000V, no multimeter can do that.
If you mean" main voltage, 230v", I can tell you you can work with this multimeter perfectly, EXCEPT if you use your multimeter with high level of moisture. In this case your multimeter must be taged according european standart EN 60529, tagging your multimeter by a sealing index ability "IP6" or more.
If you make a wrong measure, the fuse on the multimeter is perfectly able to make it's job, without exploding. For another wrong measurement, you can just damage your multimeter.
Of course, these multimeters are not made for working on several condition. Dust, moisture, risk of high voltage surge. This is a domain where fluke is the king, but lot's of job can be done with this simple Aneng.
I think people can use this multimeter on their workbench perfectly, and need to be careful when using it on the main voltage. High voltage are absolutely prohibited for this multimeter. And for lot's of anothers multimeters. You need to have high voltage habilitation.
This multimeter is perfect for house and private use. It can be used on industrial jobs if only used on 48V max. I use this multimeter, cause it's cheap, light, and not the end of the world if stolen or lost.
Please remember than the first and best protection against electrical danger is YOU (the user), not a device.
Thanks for your comment.
I am not the person putting a 1000v tester across the little meter and declaring it safe to use. That would be you. Your video implies that this meter would be safe to use on anything up to 1000v which I believe to be false. You wouldn't want to use this meter to test a 400v motor now would you? You can defend your video all you want but it gives a false sense of security to people without the proper knowledge to work on electrical circuits and as such I think you should take it down.
John Jones please contact Aneng and ask them to stop to provide their product. Other users watching this video are able to understand what this video means. You probably miss the first 20 s of the video.
Please don't buy it, this video are for professionnal who know what it's talking about. Put a bad thumb, discourage your sourrounding to not purchase this brand, and every body will be happy. Please consider you wasted enough time with this video.
EEVblog did a better review and teardown of an Aneng meter - found cheap flimsy inputs with horrible input protection and substandard fuses. Chinese manufacturers will print a CAT rating on anything.
These are useful for hobby use only, use with any electrical system which has the capability to cause harm is downright stupid especially in a professional capacity as you would be opening yourself to legal repercussions.
"Fluke killer?" That's just laughable. The Aneng is a rebranded Zotek meter. The Zotek branded ones don't even hide the fact they're a rip-off of the Fluke 15B/17B/101 etc meters as they even use the same numerical system. Aneng meters are just another Chinese rebranded DMM with cheap construction, borrowed styling, and poor safety. More of a toy than a tool.
The fact you are advertising them as being on par with even the Chinese market Fluke models is shameful. These meters could kill or maim someone.
don't buy it, and rather of it, give your money to this nitwit of dave jones.
You should rename your video: "Aneng, the killer" :D
@@scod3908 I think you are an asshole. Give away from this channel please.
Wow that 9V battery is really charged to the max. I have never seen 9V batts above 10V. The most I have encountered was 9.8V That's impressive though.
I agree. Maybe because it's an industrial battery. Don't remember exactly why but this voltage on this battery is pretty high.
Grazie per la spiegazione.Like!
glad you like it.
In the manual it says: " Do not input voltage exceeds 36V DC or 25V AC when you are at the setting of measuring current"
What's that really means? I cannot measure, lets say for example, how much current a 100w 220v bulb light draws ? ( I know I don't need the multimeter for that, it's an easy convenient formula to calculate it).
Or it is just a safety precaution to not accidentally measure voltages above that range while the multimeter dial is set on "A", "mA" and ruin the multimeter?
In this multimeter, if you blow the fuse of mA or A section, you will have the intern calculator of the multimeter connected in serial with the load. The main voltage appears on the lead of the multimeter, and this voltage can destroy the intern receptor, wich is not in " automatic calibrating" mode.
An ampmeter work with a voltage sensor connected on a "resistor", called " shunt". In this way, the voltage display is changed by a " amp" display, and doesn't have any trouble if the fuse is ok.
If fuse is dead, you will inject a high voltage on a very sensitive circuit reading sensor, wich give you a amp or mA read trough a very low impedance shunt (millivolt are read and converted to amp display).
Normaly, if you blow the fuse, usualy you break the circuit and nothing is read.
It happen to me. When I blow the millamp fuse, I continue to have stupid read amp, instead to have nothing.
It mean than if I inject a high voltage in this case, I can destroy the intern calculator of the multimeter.
This is the reason (I guess) they advice to not exceed this voltage range.
Anyway, you can use it of to read amp on any voltage, cause current and voltage are not calculate by the same thing.
If you want to measure the current on your bulb, you can do it on the 10 amp caliber, without any problem.
Of course, never forget to replace the probe on the righ connexion before to test voltage or... BOUM.
Thank you for your explicit answer. Also, good to know about the fuse issue. I'll keep that in mind.
My 2 cents: the issue with all such small meters is that they have very small size fuses. And when those fuses get damaged under load due to the small distance between end caps with a higher voltage there will be arc discharge inside that would cause a fuse explosion and arcing outside of the fuse on a PCB. All of the above could not only damage the meter itself but might even cause hand burns etc.
Votre anglais est tres bien mon ami! Merci / Thanks for the great video.
Ah merci c'est encourageant. Merci pour votre soutient, en espérant que la vidéo vous ai été informative.
Merci pour votre commentaire
Mon plaisir! Continuer à faire du bon travail.
Thanks for doing this test. It does show how much the meter circuit is insulated from the outer case.
Yes, because steeve jhones (EEVblog) laugh when he see " catII /catIII" on the bottom of the multimeter. So, I did this video to show the opposite,and to prove how these multimeters are fantastic for their price.
Thanks for your comment.
yup, the only thing i agreed with dave jone is its safety rating on cheap meters.
any qualified technician will not use this for more than any household application but this such meter are practically built for electronics purposes with their microamp & volt range.
he is bias against cheap meter and lots of viewer did commented in his videos.
at the beginning, he was hard to be critical with other brand of multimeters because he was sponsored by expensive brands.
After few years, sponsors changed and he could be pragmatic with what he feels. A sponsored channel can not be pragmatic.
Lots of people care about security. But security is not just a devices affair, but a " how to proceed affair".
thanks for your comment.
Alexander Hartdegen actually he kept mentioning in his earlier videos that he was not sponsored and he admitted having bias for branded meters. as engineer himself, he can only stand for excellent designed and engineering but that comes will really steep price tag.
Ok, I approve what you said, but let me be honnest with you.
I don't like this guy. I absolutely hate his voice, his videos and the reason why he makes a youtube Channel. He use his knowledge to sell electronics devices, he is not a " crazy scientist".
In the beginning, each one of us tryied to make singulars videos, with the things we have. We are agree about the fact we use personnals devices, each one of us at his own degree. But little while after, this guy came with tons of materials, faking like it was his own and personnal use. But he never explained how a single guy made a race on RUclips about who have less of this, or more of that.
You said he's not sponsored? Let me tell you he went up at to sponsored him self. He broadcasted his own multimeter, selled on his site, after what he insisted on the fact than "low cost multimeter" are bullshit.
You can understand what I said when you see him destroying a UNIT multimeter, wich cost some 150 dollars, against a Metrahit multimeter, wich cost 1500 dollars. Can you tell me if you need to be a intelligent ingineer for using a 1500 dollars multimeter?
Do you think this kind of videos are a kind of advice for a studend on electronic, thinking afterwards he need a 1500 dollars multimeter?
I think this guy is all, except a pragmastic voice.
Lately, Dave Jhonnes began to talk pragmaticaly about sheap multimeter.
You can guess though than his money comes from another way, wich gives to him more reliability.
Let me tell you. I am a sound engineer (and process ingineer). And sometimes, I works with cheap microphones, wich have a fantastic result.
But I have many very expensive microphones on my cabinet.
I have both, and I don't screaming than 100 dollars microphone are bullshit. You know why? Because I am an honnest guy.
This is the reason why I can work with 20 dollars multimeter.
Thanks.
Hi. Thanks for the video.
Is the Aneng 8000 any different from the variants you showed here?
Thanks. Shalom
@Alexander delos Santos Yes it's a little different but you can expect good result from this multimeter. Aneng makes serious product despite the price. But this kind of display (black and constant backlight) is not really my cup of tea. This is a nice multimeter you can trust it.
Bonjour et merci pour cette vidéo , je viens d'acheter les deux modèles car j'ai grillé mon Fluke "bêtement" et vu leurs prix, leurs performances et tes conseils il n'y a pas photo :) je ne remet pas autant d'argent pour un autre Fluke !!! je ferai certainement tes modifications pour les fusibles .A+
@jm aurillac dommage pour ton fluke. Tu peux y aller les yeux fermés sur ces multimètres Aneng ils sont imbattables. Leur qualité de mesure correspond à du fluke à 250E. Les cordons livrés sont de très bonnes qualité, la lecture des diodes est digne d'un fluke haut de gamme, tu ne seras pas déçu c'est sûr. Il y a également d'autres modèles comme le Aneng 870, ou le Holdpeak HP-770D (mesures d'un fluke 180...) J'utilise le Aneng 8002 de façon professionnelle depuis longtemps (en TBT), aucun autre multimètre ne peut le remplacer. J'ai revendu des Aneng 8002 modifiés à des confrères qui l'ont trouvé génial. Merci pour ton intérêt et ta confiance.
@@AIexanderHartdegen merci pour ta réponse :) , j'avais déjà vu le holdpeak chez Philippe Demerliac, un internaute lui avait parlé des "obturateurs" de sondes évitant les mauvaises manipulations mais pas eu de retour de test donc je me suis basé sur tes vidéos(ANENG) très pratiques pour ceux qui ne savent pas trop quels modèles choisir !! à quand une vidéo "test" sur les oscilloscopes numériques?? ou même sur ton ATTEN ads1102 ? A+ Jean michel
@jm aurillac les oscilloscopes c'est un sujet très complexe. L'utilité d'un oscilloscope est extrêmement variable et les utilités des options sont vraiment aléatoires en fonction de qui l'utilise. Je n'ai que rarement (voir jamais) abordé ce sujet, car un test sur un oscilloscope sur RUclips c'est argumenter entre une Méhari et une Ferrari. Ceux qui ont une Méhari n'ont pas forcément les poches vides et ceux qui ont une Ferrari n'en ont pas vraiment l'utilité... Néanmoins... Les oscilloscopes modernes (électronique à mémoire) sont plus que suffisant pour 99% des électroniciens. Autrefois il fallait payer un prix fort pour un oscilloscope à mémoire, maintenant ils valent à peine le prix d'un Métrix haut de gamme. Choisir son oscilloscope c'est comme choisir sa voiture, mais la nature principale reste la même. Donc une vidéo test sur des oscilloscopes numériques sous-entendrait beaucoup de choses: d'une, l'oscilloscope serait soumis à un jugement parfaitement arbitraire, de deux, les raisons réelles du test ne sont pas la réelle motivation de la vidéo. Beaucoup de tests ne sont que des publicités déguisées, en quête d'affichage du produit. Si l'on sait que presque n'importe quel oscilloscope à 400E ferait l'affaire, pourquoi faire des tests supplémentaires...?
De plus, faire un test à l'heure actuelle d'un oscilloscope numérique correspondrait simplement à comparer deux véhicules en fonction de leur options. On en viendrait presque à oublier le rôle premier d'un oscilloscope. Je ne me défini pas réellement comme un " testeur", même si c'est ce que je fais dans quelques une de mes vidéos. Pour tester un oscilloscope, il faudrait en avoir 2 entre les mains tous les jours, définir quelques avantages et inconvénients, choses qui ne sont pas dans mon contexte. Et il faudrait savoir jusqu'à quel détail technique la critique devrait aller? Certains points nécessites des études supplémentaires car très spécifiques. Pour moi, à l'heure actuelle, tous les oscilloscopes sont bons: pour l'utilisateur il reste à définir sa fréquence maximale d'utilisation, le nombre de canaux, l'isolation du secteur, et quelques options... La linéarité d'une lecture de signal ou la possibilité d'affichage de qualité d'une courbe de lissajou varie d'un appareil à un autre (oscilloscope analogique ou numérique...?). Même un kit à 25 E peut être suffisant s'il répond exactement à vos besoins.. Mais sur un établi confirmé un 50Mhz trouvera parfaitement sa place. N'importe quel oscillo à 300E peut fournir une transformée de Fourier.. Pour toutes ces raisons matérielles, économiques, philosophiques, il ne me serait pas évident de faire ce genre de tests. Si je reçois un oscilloscope " for free" je serai ravi de le tester... Car c'est ce que me demanderait l'entreprise qui me l'aurait envoyé. Les oscilloscopes tel que " ads1102" répondait parfaitement à mes besoins à une époque, des besoins qui ne sauraient être valables pour motiver une présentation généraliste.
Pour ce qu'il en est de l'ads1102 c'est un oscilloscope suffisant pour des usages généralistes. Sa bande de 100Mhz couvre les utilisations plus que suffisante dans beaucoup de domaines, sauf la radio peut-être. Aujourd'hui les comparaisons sont d'ordres ergonomiques, le plus grand écran, décodage, sondes différentielles... Il possède le single shot, ce qui était la raison première de son achat. Et pour être honnête, on finit toujours par utiliser le plus puissant des oscilloscopes en mode "automatique"... Il y a beaucoup plus de différence à noter entre différents métrix qu'entre les oscilloscopes modernes. Les oscilloscopes portables ont un avantage, celui d'être isolés du secteur et de permettre des mesures en toutes circonstances (portable ou pas c'est un argument décisif mais non une critique). Donc pour moi, tous les oscilloscopes sont bons... Car chacun répond aux besoins de celui qui prend la peine de l'acheter.
Toutes ces raisons sont les raisons pour lesquelles je ne fais pas ce type de vidéos. J'espère que je n'ai pas été trop brouillon dans mes explications.
@@AIexanderHartdegen pas de souci pour tes explications, je comprends:) je débute et donc mes questions s'en ressentent :) j'ai bien compris que tout dépendra de mes besoins.
j'ai personnellement un tektronix 468 acheté avec un lot d'appareils mais pour moi c'est encore l'inconnu, j'utilise que mes multimètres A+
@jm aurillac pour un "débutant" c'est pas si mal que ça un tektronix 468. Le principal c'est d'en avoir un, le reste c'est franchement du marketing, même si certaines options sont sympathiques sur les oscillos modernes. Le tektronix possède déjà une digitalisation des signaux ce qui est déjà très bien. Bien entendu, il n'est pas interdit de se faire plaisir avec du matériel moderne... Bonne soirée à toi.
I'm not sure I understood the test you did. The Aneng didn't have any insulation to protect the user from high voltage. Are you saying this test proves that the Aneng is safe to use in situating up to 1KV?
no. UNTIL 1K, no up.
Alexander Hartdegen so it is safe up to 1KV. Is that what your test shows?
@@xray364 it shows it's safe until 999V, with two wires connected to the same point (no measurement process). It's a test about phase isolation, no wire to wire measurement. This device have not to be used over 380V in current use.
@@AIexanderHartdegen
It comes with a 250v fuse, that's all you need to know to never use the ANENG meters on mains besides checking with NCV if your cheap meter has it, FAKE certifications are no joke, if you need a mains multimeter buy a reputable brand, a Fluke multimeter is cheaper than third degree burns or funerals.
Regarding ANENG AN8008, if you put this into diode mode and there is a short, does it make a beep noise immediately?? Thanks 😊
no! sorry.
I don't really understand why would anybody buy Aneng when you can have UNI-T 133A or 136B for the same price. Which is much more reputable brand with higher quality products. They also manufacture for Fluke in China market
because Aneng cheap multimeter appears first.
As i see it it's a nice multimeter. I guess it has not temperature probes so we cannot measure temperature. Which one Aneng you think is the best the blue or the red one ?
it has thermocouple to check temperature, delivered with the multimeter. For electronic purpose, the blue is the best. For rough electrical red is ok. Those multimeters are perfect for hobbyist and are not made for working on dangereous factory area, even if I use it in my work (I am process engineer). They are perfect for the price. You need to check the specs accordind your need to chose the device you need.
@@AIexanderHartdegen Thanks... I have seen also ANENG AN870 the green one. DO you have opinion on this since it's the most expensive of the bunch ?
@@RHTORAS it's more expensive because it has one digit more. It's a very nice multimeter for the price also, like Aneng usually do. The important thing is the features you need, for choosing a multimeter. This one is very nice, but big. Mine is the 8002 because... It perfectly fit my little suitcase tools.
@@AIexanderHartdegen I am electrician enginner and i will surely use on 220 voltage in europe. I only know a few feature usage but i want as much as i can. So is the green safer and more compact overall ?
@@RHTORAS the green is bigger than blue or red. We can tell it's more secure because it has bigger fuse (white ceramic I gess) and easy to replace. But components are globaly the same. The additionnal digit is precious to make comparaison between many values like metrologic works. Also, because it's bigger, it can give a better impression of security and more serious. So, if you have to deal with some people, this multimeter is more ressembling according a serious fluke or other famous brand.
The 870 is not more compact, it's more accurate (at least according with two different measurements). If you intend to use it at work, the green is really " better", mostly if you have to deal with a customer.
Nice job! Now i am happier with my aneng an8002 after watching this video. can you compare milivolts measurement with fluke? on milivolts selection aneng an8002 shows irrelevant values instead of 0.000 value when even probes are idle (as we can see in the video).
@Ahmt Ahmet Yes. You can see it in this video
ruclips.net/video/m1txNmyVq1U/видео.html
@Ahmt Ahmet When you use millivolt range on such sensitive devices, you will always have a fluctuating voltage displayed on the screen. This is normal, it caught electrostatic and alectromagnetic field. When the probes are shortcircuited, you also can have a little value displayed, cause the seebeck effect. But those value are minimal. All multimeter wwhose have probe in air with the millivolt section applied displayed some ununderstable value.
This isn't for electrician use, the input protection is nonexistent and doesn't pass any CAT ratings what so ever. So it's really unsafe for anything over 60V AC...
Insulation resistance doesn't tell you how safe the meter really is to use.
so, for your sefety, don't buy it please.
Well... it's OK "throwaway" meter, way above the rest as long as you never use it on systems that have possibility of high energy transients in excess of 100V :)
so what? with my dinky meter i measure up to 1000vdc and nothing happens, i can even go 20% over that without anything happening, and you are afraid of this meter? You call it throwaway? dont be a puss
OMG
just don't buy it.
i doubt if ill ever use it mine on any thing more than 400volts so thanks for putting my mind at rest
I use it on 420 VAC, 220VAC, 48Vdc and ac, and 24Vac and dc.
It works on every condition, but I recommend to use it on 220V maximal voltage.
tear down maybe require so we can have a look inside to compare to a decent DMM
@Zalds Lim
Hello sir, this video is not a classical review of this multimeter. It just provide the insultting ability of this multimeter. As I said first in the video during the screen text, there is a lot of review of this multimeter and this video will provide another specific point noticed here, wich is the insulating abilitys of this multimeter.
If you are looking for a professionnal multimeter, you need to know than this multimeter is not recommended for industrial or professionnal use, thanks.
@@AIexanderHartdegen ok im just saying no bad intention
@Zalds Lim no problem sir, sorry if my quick response can seem little short. The main problem with this multimeter is the size of the fuses. In another video, I make a modification for to use classical 5x20 fuse.
Of course, this DMM is perfect for the hobbyist, but are not recommended on sites, or power plant, even if as a technician than I am use it on sites, cause it's light, easy to replace, and tiny.
Thanks for your comment.
EEVblog did a teardown of an AN8008, found them to be cheaply constructed with substandard input protection. Compare to his review and teardown of a Chinese Fluke 17B+ for reference.
Hello, Mr. Alexander.
I am a hobby electrics enthusiast and I am considering to buy an AN8008 multimeter. I see in its specifications that it does 9999 counts. Since you own one and have tested it, I'd like to ask you if this multimeter can measure the capacitance of larger electrolytic capacitors. If I understood correctly, it should be able to display a, let's say, 3900μF capacitance (as it has four digits). Am I correct? Thanks so much in advance for your reply.
according to the specs of this device, you will can measure until 9999 µF.
I had this information before but I have forgotten if it's real or not.
Let me some fews hours and I will tell you tomorow. Thanks.
Alexander Hartdegen Great, thanks in advance! Much appreciated. :-)
Yes it can read very high several values form capacitor (respecting the good polority for best precision).
You can see it here
lektronik.canalblog.com/archives/2017/11/03/35833002.html
Alexander Hartdegen Hi. Thanks for the link, the picture was very informative.
I noticed that the AN8002 displays a value starting with 7, which is strange since it only supports 6000 counts. The AN8008 doesn't have that "problem", though. Thank you so much for the capacitor readings, it'll have made my purchase choice a lot easier. ;-)
according to the specs, these both multimeters have the same capacitors ability. thanks for your comment
I bought this Aneng 8008 for USD15 including shipping from China. I stopped using my fluke DVM because this meter is even more accurate and also smaller and lighter.
Yes, you're right. But Aneng have an strange issue when it's brand new. The rotative selector contains grease which need to be cleaned cause it's made bad connexion and strange behavior. Think about it, thanks for your comment.
@@AIexanderHartdegen my Aneng don't have that problem. I use it in my electronic design lab.
The existence of such devices tells only one thing - the brands are 10x overpriced.
These two multimeters are very reliable... But can they replace brand multimeter? I don't know, and I think maybe not.
They are perfect (I noticed some troubles coming from an excess of grease on the rotary button, making bad contacts and aberated display, need to clean it).
Each one can have his own idea, but if you work with it, nothing forbidden to have a Fluke inside your drawer, to confirm a exotic reading.
Well, I think that brands such as Fluke are better multimeters than others overall, but I agree with you that they are unreasonably overpriced. They are very expensive.
here is the thing though - certifiying and shit takes money. sure they are overpriced and they should make a line of hobby stuff as it pays for them - but not nearly as overpriced as you'd think. of course china makes it cheaper, they just build it. - but product cost is more then the BOM or assembly.
The input protection on this meter is nonexistent so it's definitely not a "fluke killer"... use with your own risk.
its a killer allright. but not of flukes.
wich is better? An8001, An8002, An8004?
the best is the specs you need. For me it's the 8002. But if you dont need high precision milliampmeter, you can take the 8008. If you don't need "scientist meter", you can take the 8001. the best is according the specs you need, simply.
@@AIexanderHartdegen Thank you, I ordered the an 8002 yesterday.
WHAHAHAHAHA Fluke killer?? Seriously? Have you ever looked inside one? They are ok meters for the price but INCOMPARABLE to Fluke or other top brands.
you are an asshole killer.
If you value your life do not ever work on voltages above 100V AC/DC with these meters.
I have a Victor VC97 which also is a Chinese DMM and i measure 400~600 V DC on Tube amps and i haven't had any problems. safety is good but if you know your instruments you can count on them.
No it fine for that, it when dealing with higher then 400 vac, triple phase, or high currents with these meter I would worry and won't recommend. In other words don't use it in a industrial setting where risk of flash over, or high voltage spikes are likely to occur. Get a fluke, or brymen that uses proper isolation spacing and slots and have a few large MOV's and PTC with spark gaps and real hrc fuses. For most hobbyist use these cheap meters are fine.
you're right and wrong. To not working on higher voltage is more secure. But I use it on 420AC. And it works nice.
Why you change option to mV all values are changing whiteout measuring? Why not stay on 0 (zero) like on cheap multimeters. Why values are changing on mV.
Because ultra chip multimeter have not mV caliber, so they can not wiggling. Also, a millivolt caliber aways fluctuate when probes are on air.
@@AIexanderHartdegen thank you, I saw it on many video on RUclips. My is new. Now I know that this is normal. Thx again.
I don't get it
aneng is as good as a fluke for simple purposes. Insulation can make the job. End.
Etes vous suisse mon cher ami ?
non.
@@AIexanderHartdegen flamand mais ton accent est similaire su mien, québécois
It is far from a Fluke killer
you also. No refund.
@@AIexanderHartdegen You are crazy lol .. fluke have best security measures .. Protects us from serious situations .. once open that Aneng and see what protections its providing ..
french accent!
yes it is. I am french but born in Algéria. Also my english is different now, at least I guess.
They envy the most important thing : SAFETY and TRUE cat ratings, being precise in not sufficient.
Ton test d'isolement est biaisé car opéré depuis un appareil de faible puissance. La sureté ne se résume pas à ça, mets le aneng en ohmetre et injecte 500v en grande puissance comme le réseau de distribution et il explose dans ta main. Ces petits appareils ne servent qu'en basse tension, faible puissance. Le cat 2 1000v cat 3 600v est une blague, les fusibles à l'intérieur sont sous dimensionnés.
Regarde cette video :
ruclips.net/video/OEoazQ1zuUM/видео.html
Ne dis pas que c'est ok pour 500v, c'est la mort assurée.
Edit: commences la video à 6min
Edit 2 ":I make a short test to prove they have nothing to envy to their master."
They envy the most important thing : SAFETY and FAKE cat ratings, being precise in not sufficient.
Hello. J'a eu l'occasion d'exploser quelques métrix entre mes mains. Des petits et des gros, sur du 220 et 380v. Je te répond directement: Non, aucun métrix n'explose de cette façon, connecté à du 500V, même en ampèremètre. Même en ampèremètre, les pointes fondent, l'acier en fusion est éjecté (d'où les lunettes de sécurité...), l'appareil est HS mais aucune explosion.
Le test que tu montres est un test ou des centaines (ou des milliers) de joules sont envoyés sur un pauvre métrix qui se demande pourquoi on l'a choisi lui.
Donc je te le répète, mon test n'est pas un test " sécuritaire",
Ne soyons pas dupe.
Ces laboratoires de test extrême me font bien rire. Je ne pense pas que leur condition de test soient "réalistes", ils cherchent surtout à valoriser leur pratique et justifier leur salaire.
Si mon test te paraît biaisé, moi en revanche je trouve que c'est de leur envoyer du 5000V sous 100A qui est biaisé. Un métrix Fluke sera toujours meilleur. Mais pour se limiter à du 220, l'écart de prix n'est pas justifié, mais ça reste mon avis. Les gens meurent électrocutés rarement avec des métrix dans les mains. Merci pour ton commentaire.
@@AIexanderHartdegen Hello. Tes multimètres n'ont pas explosés parce que ils étaient bien mieux fabriqués que le multi 1er prix sur la video ou bien le aneng (gros fusible sectionneur céramique à fort pouvoir de coupure). Le mode ampèremètre est moins dangereux, le shunt, cables et pointes vont fondrent, au pire brulures (surcapacité en série ou bien court cicuit en parallèle)
Le test sur la vidéo est très réaliste puisque la tension appliquée ce situe dans la capacité (fausse) du multi 1er prix à savoir 750V AC, c'est à partir de 5minutes, il envoie 660V en ac, la tension est bel et bien affichée sur le 1er prix et il explose en ohmmètre. (pas du 5000v du 660v)
Il fait le meme test avec le fluke, la tension affichée OL overlimit puisque c'est un multi certifié jusqu'à 600V, tourne le sélecteur et rien ne se passe, puisque c'est un multimètre sûr (au délà de ses spécifications).C'est pour cette raison q'ils ont choisi ce pauvre multimètre, les specifications de sureté sont fausses comme le aneng qui est construit comme un jouet.
Avec de la tension secteur 220, il explose de cette façon : ruclips.net/video/iGUiZT6kLDk/видео.html d'ailleurs il le teste, sinon celle ci ruclips.net/video/AjtoIRclid8/видео.html
pas sur que le aneng s'en tire bcp mieux les fusibles miniatures.
Donc NON, ne pas utiliser le aneng sur du secteur 220v, ni sur des vehicules electriques, ni sur des moteurs et transformateurs de puissance létale (y compris electro menager micro onde, plasma etc)
Dave Jones eeevblog l'a testé et je suis d'accord avec lui.
Fluke est cher mais les brymen sont très bons et accessibles, pareil pour les hioki, ne pas faire d'économie sur la sécurité, utiliser des multi CERTIFIES et TESTES pour la haute puissance.
Oui fort heureusement, les gens meurent rarement electrocutés avec les multimètres grâce à systèmes de sécurité et certifications (qui font défaut sur le aneng).
J'ai regardé ta vidéo un peu plus attentivement. Le mec dit " we love this kind of multimeter for the reliability of blowing up". Ils choisissent le pire du chinois pour faire du sensationnel. Enfin bref.
Le Aneng a été testé par Joe Smith, dans des conditions assez sévères. Personnellement j'ai jamais eu envie de tester un multimètre jusqu'à sa destruction. Mais il suffit de voir le test de Joe Smith, et de ne pas prendre pour argent comptant ces pseudos ingénieurs de polichinelle qui se gargarisent devant un multimètre à 3e sur Ebay explosé au courant alternatif en mode ohm ou diode. Ils ne savent pas à quel point ils sont ridicules. Quoi qu'il en soit la sécurité avant tout, je recommande à mes abonnés de ne pas dépasser les 220 volts en utilisation sur les multimètres bon marché. Merci pour ton attention.
Forget all the batching about fuses, just replace the fuses with better quality one for a buck or two
dac
Have you seen the video of the guy testing the TRMS on these meters? Its miles out! More cheap junk! I have seen a few videos of people saying they are great. To be honest I also thought they were good meters at first. Since seeing the videos of what they do badly or whatever I changed my opinion.
Hi, I didn't see video you're talking for. But seriously, lot's of multimeters are not able to read a real RMS value, cause it's very difficult. During many years, people worked with multimeters without True RMS read, and now it's become a first need. For my part, I tryied this multimeter comparing with a Fluke and Uni-T, but only with low voltage measure. It's work well.
So sir, I give you an advice, If you need a very nice multimeter for low cost, stop linstening bullshit coming from anywhere, these multimeter are perfect for you, except if you are in the US ARMY.
Lol I doubt I'll ever be in the US army! I'm in the UK. If these meters don't do TRMS why is it stated it can? Also you see the protection in these meters? Silly wee gas things. They are prob ok for low voltage stuff but they shouldn't say they do things they don't. I have a Chinese Hyelec MS89 meter,it matches my Fluke 177 almost exact on everything they both do except capacitors. Its hard to believe how close it matches where it can. Its uncanny. I got a voltage reference from eBay,just for fun. My Ex Tech 505 was around 30-50mv out on the 4 references,my Fluke 177 matched 3 but was 2mv out on the 2.499 V reference but my £28 Hyelec MS89 was bang on with all 4 references. Take from that what you will. Meters are a funny lot!
Your first link is one of the videos I was talking about. So the guys calculations are wrong? Lol I take back my comment then.
I use a fluke 177 and Brymen 867s as my main meters. No problems or worries "if" they are good meters or not. Both are proven awesome meters. Thanks for the correction.
You need subtitle for the video
Devil Angel there are french subtitle for the video.
Poor instruction.
Don't be so harsh with your self.
wow, your english is very good :DDDDD
@Jake Joris The purpose is than you can understand me. Isn't it?
Hope you enjoy the video.
At least he speaks more than only one language. My mother language is Portuguese, however I can speak English and Spanish with my own accent and everybody can understand me very well. Portuguese is my only perfect grammar and orthographic language commitment I must carry for life.
@Edgard Oliveira if people laught because I talk like a sick cow, that's suits to me. Learn electronic or laughing, this is a good bargain.
I always improve my english, and now it's better than before. Keep practice, this is the good way, thanks for your comment.
Love the joke on the video title😂
can you be more explicite?
Alexander Hartdegen that fluke killer part, cant really compare aneng and fluke as fluke is the industry standard. Aneng on the other hand is 15€ chinese wannabe fluke. And on the test, that voltage you put in will arc over contacts and ruin the meter while it may be safe to hold. And the situation when measuring high energy circuits and there is an overload, with aneng you will die, with fluke you dont
I think you're able to understand than no professionnal, or high technician will buy a Aneng for industrial measurement. Cause the serious part of intervention will be criticable.
In most case, people are not afraid about a over load on the multimeter , they are afraid about to be electrified when using this device.
I guess nobody will use this cheap multimeter on a voltage over 380V.
There is lot's of test about cheap multimeter, with injection of high voltage energy on the probe. I can't do this kind of test, cause I hate destructing, and I am not a security engineer.
And for common use, people use it on a "personnal" workbench.
It's worthless to save money for to buy an expensive multimeter to work properly, an Aneng will be enough.
For this reason, the title is " the fluke killer". You will not see this multimeter on a professionnal laboratory, but in lot's of hobbies applications. In this case, you can take the title seriously.
Of course, it's impossible for a serious technician to use only a Aneng.
For some reasons, a serious high brand multimeter is usefull to confirm a strange behavior on a failing circuit.
the title is certainly a bit daring, but they are a very serious multimeter.
Try to buy one, and confirm!
man, by saying "***piece if shit is a Fluke killer", you do nothing, but just play a dishonest game over here only for the purpose to boost a number of views. You mislead people by setting up your dodgy "experiments" with the "insulation tests" trying to convince them that the Chinese crap is safe enough at high voltages. But insulation of an enclosure of the multimeter has nothing to do with safety cause all the threat of electrical breakdown sits inside of it. That's exactly what Dave Jones talks about in his videos. Crappy PCB topology, domestic 250 volt fuses used and so on, all that creates a potential threat to a user. The fact is you know fuck all about high energy circuits and what happens when just a tiny arc appears on probe tips of a crappy multimeter when measuring mains. Since industrial power lines are capable to produce kilo amp currents this tiny spark will turn in a huge fireball of 6000 degree Celsius in just a fraction of a second cause ionized air will let it draw as much unlimited current as the power line can give. Very thick copper bus bars get fucking twisted like noodles when insulation is broken between two phases. I personally had a 15 dollar Chinese multimeter exploded in my hands being hooked up to domestic AC electric grid. Luckily the circuit breaker tripped the power off. Fuck it! No Chinese multimeters in my life any more.
@@AIexanderHartdegen MIC DROP #2
Thanks for the video!
Great effort but your English is terrible. You should take some English courses because it's extremely difficult to understand you. Just some constructive criticism. Keep 'em comin'!
hi it really depends on days... Thanks. I think to prepare it before to make a video. Thanks for your comment.
Alexander Hartdegen really not so hard to understand
thanks for your support.
thanks ;)
problem not in english but in the absence of the oratorical skills. Emm, umm, and constant abrupt pause - it's all very annoying, especially on 2x speed.
Fluke is so expensive but the quality is great..
that's true.