I used to despise your videos because I wanted to see more action rather than talking, months ago when I re-started studying building as I want to get back into it (been an apprentice for 3 years). As I kept on watching and learning and memorizing stuff, I began to realise the depth and importance of certain details, and how things can get very much complicated if not done the proper way right off the start. Turns out your talks have become very much welcome to my hears as there is so much good advise in it, and here I am watching video after video and listening to every little bit of your speech. Thumbs up!!!
Do I see a man tear?! Oh you softie you! Glad our orders helped you, sounds like you needed the jump in business, I'll be making some tool orders soon for the 16' leveling bar, nut slot files/ fret files. 20% or not, you deserve every last penny. People like myself would be dead in the water repairing guitars and understanding the theories behind the practice if it weren't for your daily podcasts, tools, and tips. Thank you
I feel I have to give you praise for the high quality of image and sound on your latest vids ! They are the highest quality that I have seen on YT, very impressive even at 480p ! I automatically click on the 720p or 1080p option (if my connection allows) for every other YT vid that I watch but for yours there's no need 480p is fine ! Well done Ben !
Ben about plywood, when i was studying lutherie, my teacher made us bought sheets of Okoumé plywood , 18 and 10mm thicks , we used it to makes molds and templates for necks bodies , molds for the acoustic , side bending jigs etc ! The stuff is amazing, it's not cheap at all , but it's super strong, i still have some of my templates that were in the cold and heat , humidity and snow , they are more than 6 years and still not a hole , not bending at all , straight as a metal ruler ! I love mdf too , but when i'm making templates i go with super high quality plywood , you can drop it and it won't have explod in pieces at least :D
I've been thinking about making a few templates, as I'm thinking of making my own bodies (this is a hobby for me, a stress reliever if you can believe it). This was very helpful, and honestly, of your podcasts, this one is one of the best :-)
I have just started to atempt to build guitars. How important for structual integrity is the trust rod. If I went without a trust rod would it have to be down tuned after every play to keep from warping or could I leave it unless it is in stroage. One last thing were the heck could I buy a trust rod.
I have built(assembled) 10 or so electric guitars with bolt on necks. I installed a couple of bigsby type trems on tele types(my favorite). I used hard tail strat bridges and filed the lip down as far as I could to get as much string bend behind the saddles as I could while still letting the trem work well. Is there a minimum string break angle behind the saddle contact point for good transfer of vibration between string and wood? Is there an ideal angle? What are the differences in sound as you increase or decrease the angle? The guitars with the trems DO sound different in small ways, but they are different in other ways too, so any light you could shed on this would help me decide things in the future, THANKS! Your podcasts are GREAT!
Can't believe I missed that you answered my question until 4 days later, while I'm at work. Thank you so much, definitely the answers I was looking for. I actually tried to buy a sheet of MDF from Lowe's over here, and they handed me a sheet of particleboard. I kept arguing that it wasn't MDF, but they persisted so I said screw it, I'll try it anyway. Didn't work out so well. I guess I'll hold out for some MDF, then invest in a little Acryllic, and hire someone to cut out a few templates. Thanks again!
In general I think people should trust the accuracy of their hands and hand tools much more. Saws, chisels, planes, rasps, and files together can easily achieve 0.1 mm accuracy when used correctly. Here in Finland one thing we are lucky with is plywood. There's really only two kinds widely available, pine and birch, but both are good quality. Low grade has patches. I kinda like shaping ply by hand, although not as much as shaping wood. MDF is a bit easier, but it is also everything you said.
Hi, I'm really enjoying the content you are gifting us with, top job. My question for you is, over the years of tweaking the setup on my guitar (Jackson V with Floyd R) the screw holes in the back have been stripped of thread, I've tried rolled up paper but I would like a more permanent fix, what would you suggest. Drill and glue in a dowel? Fill with sawdust/glue mix then drill? Cut off a goblins toe and hammer it in instead of screws? ha ha. Hope to hear from you thanks.
***** the screws holding the neck in? I would fill with a piece of dowel and wood glue then redrill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the screws.. and it's a pleasure, thanks for watching!
Just a thought: wouldn't you want the template as accurate AND heavy as possible so it stays absolutely still for copying? What are some heavy materials? I'm thinking steel, metal alloys, stone? (probably not...). How would one make one? You would probably have to have one made. Would the cost be insane and not worth it? Just my 2 cents. :)
O.k... I've got until the 27th to decide which tools to get! On the nut slotting files... I don't think you have 009 listed. Can you make those or do you start at 10?
:) thank you in advance! At that size the difference between 009 and 010 is so small that no one could tell. I've been using a 010 razor saw for my high e for years no matter what gauge the string was.
I was going to disagree until you got to the 13 minute mark! Spindle sander is the ultimate piece of equipment for the job. Just remember to use a constant sweeping motion. I use hardboard, do a test route in scrap, then if it's perfect I do it again in the acrylic. Leevalley has 30x30 sheets for 12$ which is by far the best place.
Totally awesome! Love your vids, man! I was wondering, if anybody out there has a link to some plans for a Fender Standard Telecaster that I can cutout and glue on some MDF, that would be awesome. I'm building a guitar with my friend for fun. I'm not branding it as a telecaster, I'm just using it as a reference. Thanks in advance!
thank you so very much for these podcasts. i do not have a real luthier within 100 miles and the closest will not take an apprentice or share his knowledge. trying to learn all i can ...mostly through error but your info is invaluable. lastly crimson tools KICK ASS! ...yes i am american and we say stuff like that.
Halfway through watching this right after you say "I....love this tool".....the LED on my phone blinks.....on my amazon app.... "We found this for you" Not kidding......A 9" Shinto Rasp I have my headphones on.....well played amazon....well played.
Did you buy it? Am I right or am I right? Oh, and I now feel part of the system and am ashamed at how pervasive and scary targeted ads can be. Crikey dude! B
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars BAAHAHAHA!! I.... Yes... I... bought it immediately....and it's amazing... You feel like you're wielding something powerful when you pick it up... So I guess if you're gonna get an ad, it may as well be something you like? 🤣🤣🤣
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars Any experience with solid surface material like Corian? If you can track down a 1/4" thick scrap piece, say from a sink cutout in a counter top install , a decent heavy duty master template can be made with it as well as possibly inlays so none of it goes to waste since it isn't cheap. It is a lot more stable than wood, and a bit more durable than acrylic ( I always end up breaking the acrylic when working it), but only worth it if you can get it as scrap or very cheaply as a cutoff or defect.
Ok Ben I've got a question: part 1 : How does one drill or route the access to the truss rod NUT on a Les Paul style guitar, or do you use a "spotfacer" bit which will drill the hole for the truss rod and the channel for your Allen wrench in one go . ( www.midwayusa.com/product/321799/necg-classic-swivel-stud-installation-tool-counterbore-drill-tap ) part 2: I also have see folk routing the truss rod channel all the way through where the nut will seat and in doing so they leave a gap under the nut ,some guys fill this up with a piece of wood others just stick the nut over the gap. I've seen you drill a hole for this and in doing so you leave the wood above it intact this seems to me to be the correct way, but does it really matter ? ( I suspect it does. ) ENLIGHTEN ME PLEASE Neil
Whilst not wanting to increase your workload have you considered CNC-ing templates for sale. Here's a luthier in the states that has acquired some impressive templates from someone in Portugal. Just a thought. Guitarsandwoods.com review for luthier tools
I BUILD MY TEMPLATES OUT OF GABOON EBONY AND SNAKEWOOD, YEAH ITS EXPENSIVE BUT AT LEAST THE MATERIALS ARE POACHED SO I DON'T FEEL SO BAD, JOKING, BAD JOKE. I BUILD 2 MASTERS AND ALWAYS USE THE 2ND ONE TO ROUT COPIES FOR EVERY BUILD JUST IN CASE THERE IS AN ACCIDENT WITH THE ROUTER, I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS IT'S ALMOST AS BAD AS WHEN YOU DRILL THE OUTPUT HOLE BEFORE YOU DO YOUR ROUN OVER, YIKES WHY HAVE I DONE THAT MORE THAN ONCE? AND I KNOW I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE.
Tip: It's the weekend. Sleep (says he who is up at 3am Saturday morning). Shout out to the guys making the tools: Their work is greatly appreciated world wide.
Great info. What about an ideal thickness for templates? Keep digressing once in a while Ben, it's funny stuff! Shout outs to Woodworking with The Wood Whisperer and Matt Vanderlist
Mate, I love your job, and I really like the techniques you use to make guitars, but you should make/get a script or something that keep you in track when doing this podcasts, you wander off too much and it's really maddening for people like me who wants to hear the info related to the name of the podcast. Thank you.
I kinda feel bad for the Chinese... what if every time someone in another country was complaining about poor workmanship, they said, "Well, it's really pitiful stuff... made in England, you see..."
People should be mad at the vendor or merchant, cause the quality affected by low price which exactly the merchant error, Chinese factories are so flexible molding price/quality. Here in middle east, Cars comes from everywhere in true crappy options and looks, yes doesn't matter where it came from, USA, Canada, Germany, Japan and Korea, cause the dealerships sets the standards, and our car dealerships are greedy and cheap. So I can't just say "A model car" made in Germany is so bad cause it has no options, cause it is not their fault they have to be flexible too. sorry for bad grammar. (Iphone Made in China BTW)
What do you have against particle board - besides the fact that it is ugly, impossible to machine smooth, is utterly inconsistent in thickness over a given sheet of the stuff, cannot hold nails or screws, glues up poorly, has little structural integrity, is abrasive to tools, and disintegrates when wet? I mean, aside from those little failings, what's not to love?
going back over and watching older podcasts and thought it funny that you were using US terms due to watching American podcasts, and I find myself saying imperial terms like "mil" now from watching yours so often. 5/8th? no that's 15mil, 1/2" no... 12 to 13mil, HAH!
Hey Curtis, I'm not Ben but I can help. Take a toothpick. Cut it's length to the depth of the hole that is stripped. Now, using a knife, split that toothpick into 2 or 3 pieces. Watch your fingers! Depending on how stripped out the hole is, 1 or 2 pieces should suffice. Stick them in the hole with a drop of wood or super glue. Stripped hole problem fixed, at least for those little screws. Good luck!
or if you are copying a style: just trace around a fully built guitar onto a piece of cardboard, cut the cardboard out with scissors or an exacto knife, glue it onto the template, and then cut the template out with a bandsaw/router. if you use a router, you should make the cardboard stiff beforehand with clearcoat or something, and double layering it wont hurt.
DON'T USE GUITAR TEMPLATES FROM TEMPLATE COMPANIES FOR ANYTHING BUT LAYOUT AND BASIC BODY SHAPE. THEY ARE ALWAYS WRONG UNLESS YOU BUILD THEM YOURSELF. I'VE FOUND A COUPLE PLACES THAT DO PRETTY GOOD BUT THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING OFF.
I used to despise your videos because I wanted to see more action rather than talking, months ago when I re-started studying building as I want to get back into it (been an apprentice for 3 years). As I kept on watching and learning and memorizing stuff, I began to realise the depth and importance of certain details, and how things can get very much complicated if not done the proper way right off the start. Turns out your talks have become very much welcome to my hears as there is so much good advise in it, and here I am watching video after video and listening to every little bit of your speech. Thumbs up!!!
Do I see a man tear?! Oh you softie you! Glad our orders helped you, sounds like you needed the jump in business, I'll be making some tool orders soon for the 16' leveling bar, nut slot files/ fret files. 20% or not, you deserve every last penny. People like myself would be dead in the water repairing guitars and understanding the theories behind the practice if it weren't for your daily podcasts, tools, and tips. Thank you
I feel I have to give you praise for the high quality of image and sound on your latest vids ! They are the highest quality that I have seen on YT, very impressive even at 480p ! I automatically click on the 720p or 1080p option (if my connection allows) for every other YT vid that I watch but for yours there's no need 480p is fine ! Well done Ben !
Ben about plywood, when i was studying lutherie, my teacher made us bought sheets of Okoumé plywood , 18 and 10mm thicks , we used it to makes molds and templates for necks bodies , molds for the acoustic , side bending jigs etc ! The stuff is amazing, it's not cheap at all , but it's super strong, i still have some of my templates that were in the cold and heat , humidity and snow , they are more than 6 years and still not a hole , not bending at all , straight as a metal ruler ! I love mdf too , but when i'm making templates i go with super high quality plywood , you can drop it and it won't have explod in pieces at least :D
I've been thinking about making a few templates, as I'm thinking of making my own bodies (this is a hobby for me, a stress reliever if you can believe it). This was very helpful, and honestly, of your podcasts, this one is one of the best :-)
I have just started to atempt to build guitars. How important for structual integrity is the trust rod. If I went without a trust rod would it have to be down tuned after every play to keep from warping or could I leave it unless it is in stroage. One last thing were the heck could I buy a trust rod.
I have built(assembled) 10 or so electric guitars with bolt on necks. I installed a couple of bigsby type trems on tele types(my favorite). I used hard tail strat bridges and filed the lip down as far as I could to get as much string bend behind the saddles as I could while still letting the trem work well. Is there a minimum string break angle behind the saddle contact point for good transfer of vibration between string and wood? Is there an ideal angle? What are the differences in sound as you increase or decrease the angle? The guitars with the trems DO sound different in small ways, but they are different in other ways too, so any light you could shed on this would help me decide things in the future, THANKS! Your podcasts are GREAT!
what router bit do you recommend for using when cutting the body out using the template?
Ky Fisher a good sharp flush trim bit
Can't believe I missed that you answered my question until 4 days later, while I'm at work. Thank you so much, definitely the answers I was looking for. I actually tried to buy a sheet of MDF from Lowe's over here, and they handed me a sheet of particleboard. I kept arguing that it wasn't MDF, but they persisted so I said screw it, I'll try it anyway. Didn't work out so well. I guess I'll hold out for some MDF, then invest in a little Acryllic, and hire someone to cut out a few templates.
Thanks again!
In general I think people should trust the accuracy of their hands and hand tools much more. Saws, chisels, planes, rasps, and files together can easily achieve 0.1 mm accuracy when used correctly. Here in Finland one thing we are lucky with is plywood. There's really only two kinds widely available, pine and birch, but both are good quality. Low grade has patches. I kinda like shaping ply by hand, although not as much as shaping wood. MDF is a bit easier, but it is also everything you said.
Hi, I'm really enjoying the content you are gifting us with, top job.
My question for you is, over the years of tweaking the setup on my guitar (Jackson V with Floyd R) the screw holes in the back have been stripped of thread, I've tried rolled up paper but I would like a more permanent fix, what would you suggest.
Drill and glue in a dowel?
Fill with sawdust/glue mix then drill?
Cut off a goblins toe and hammer it in instead of screws? ha ha.
Hope to hear from you
thanks.
***** the screws holding the neck in? I would fill with a piece of dowel and wood glue then redrill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the screws.. and it's a pleasure, thanks for watching!
Just a thought: wouldn't you want the template as accurate AND heavy as possible so it stays absolutely still for copying? What are some heavy materials? I'm thinking steel, metal alloys, stone? (probably not...). How would one make one? You would probably have to have one made. Would the cost be insane and not worth it? Just my 2 cents. :)
O.k... I've got until the 27th to decide which tools to get! On the nut slotting files... I don't think you have 009 listed. Can you make those or do you start at 10?
:) thank you in advance! At that size the difference between 009 and 010 is so small that no one could tell. I've been using a 010 razor saw for my high e for years no matter what gauge the string was.
Good info! Thanks!
I was going to disagree until you got to the 13 minute mark! Spindle sander is the ultimate piece of equipment for the job. Just remember to use a constant sweeping motion. I use hardboard, do a test route in scrap, then if it's perfect I do it again in the acrylic. Leevalley has 30x30 sheets for 12$ which is by far the best place.
Totally awesome! Love your vids, man! I was wondering, if anybody out there has a link to some plans for a Fender Standard Telecaster that I can cutout and glue on some MDF, that would be awesome. I'm building a guitar with my friend for fun. I'm not branding it as a telecaster, I'm just using it as a reference. Thanks in advance!
thank you so very much for these podcasts. i do not have a real luthier within 100 miles and the closest will not take an apprentice or share his knowledge. trying to learn all i can ...mostly through error but your info is invaluable. lastly crimson tools KICK ASS! ...yes i am american and we say stuff like that.
I think marine plywood is the best for this. Seems to be tougher and no voids from my experience.
I love your channel! Your guitars are marvelous and you teach so many interesting things. Great job!
Thank you very much I appreciate your support!
Halfway through watching this right after you say "I....love this tool".....the LED on my phone blinks.....on my amazon app....
"We found this for you"
Not kidding......A 9" Shinto Rasp
I have my headphones on.....well played amazon....well played.
Did you buy it? Am I right or am I right? Oh, and I now feel part of the system and am ashamed at how pervasive and scary targeted ads can be. Crikey dude! B
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars BAAHAHAHA!! I.... Yes... I... bought it immediately....and it's amazing... You feel like you're wielding something powerful when you pick it up... So I guess if you're gonna get an ad, it may as well be something you like? 🤣🤣🤣
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars Any experience with solid surface material like Corian? If you can track down a 1/4" thick scrap piece, say from a sink cutout in a counter top install , a decent heavy duty master template can be made with it as well as possibly inlays so none of it goes to waste since it isn't cheap. It is a lot more stable than wood, and a bit more durable than acrylic ( I always end up breaking the acrylic when working it), but only worth it if you can get it as scrap or very cheaply as a cutoff or defect.
Ok Ben I've got a question:
part 1 : How does one drill or route the access to the truss rod NUT on a Les Paul style guitar, or do you use a "spotfacer" bit which will drill the hole for the truss rod and the channel for your Allen wrench in one go .
( www.midwayusa.com/product/321799/necg-classic-swivel-stud-installation-tool-counterbore-drill-tap )
part 2:
I also have see folk routing the truss rod channel all the way through where the nut will seat and in doing so they leave a gap under the nut ,some guys fill this up with a piece of wood others just stick the nut over the gap. I've seen you drill a hole for this and in doing so you leave the wood above it intact this seems to me to be the correct way, but does it really matter ? ( I suspect it does. )
ENLIGHTEN ME PLEASE
Neil
Haha I really wish I watched this a month or two ago when I started my own guitar build!
Whilst not wanting to increase your workload have you considered CNC-ing templates for sale. Here's a luthier in the states that has acquired some impressive templates from someone in Portugal. Just a thought. Guitarsandwoods.com review for luthier tools
I BUILD MY TEMPLATES OUT OF GABOON EBONY AND SNAKEWOOD, YEAH ITS EXPENSIVE BUT AT LEAST THE MATERIALS ARE POACHED SO I DON'T FEEL SO BAD, JOKING, BAD JOKE. I BUILD 2 MASTERS AND ALWAYS USE THE 2ND ONE TO ROUT COPIES FOR EVERY BUILD JUST IN CASE THERE IS AN ACCIDENT WITH THE ROUTER, I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS IT'S ALMOST AS BAD AS WHEN YOU DRILL THE OUTPUT HOLE BEFORE YOU DO YOUR ROUN OVER, YIKES WHY HAVE I DONE THAT MORE THAN ONCE? AND I KNOW I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE.
thank you Ben
Tip: It's the weekend. Sleep (says he who is up at 3am Saturday morning).
Shout out to the guys making the tools: Their work is greatly appreciated world wide.
Great info. What about an ideal thickness for templates?
Keep digressing once in a while Ben, it's funny stuff!
Shout outs to Woodworking with The Wood Whisperer and Matt Vanderlist
Cactus Chris I tend to go with 9mm template material, most bearing cutters are about 4mm deep and that gives them enough room to sit comfortably.
I Blame Tom!
Cheers to the guys upstairs!
Mate, I love your job, and I really like the techniques you use to make guitars, but you should make/get a script or something that keep you in track when doing this podcasts, you wander off too much and it's really maddening for people like me who wants to hear the info related to the name of the podcast. Thank you.
Hi ^^ I look for wood template for LP Serie ... Do you sell wood template ?
I kinda feel bad for the Chinese... what if every time someone in another country was complaining about poor workmanship, they said, "Well, it's really pitiful stuff... made in England, you see..."
People should be mad at the vendor or merchant, cause the quality affected by low price which exactly the merchant error, Chinese factories are so flexible molding price/quality.
Here in middle east, Cars comes from everywhere in true crappy options and looks, yes doesn't matter where it came from, USA, Canada, Germany, Japan and Korea, cause the dealerships sets the standards, and our car dealerships are greedy and cheap. So I can't just say "A model car" made in Germany is so bad cause it has no options, cause it is not their fault they have to be flexible too. sorry for bad grammar. (Iphone Made in China BTW)
I dont.
WELL THEY DO MAKE CRAPPY, CHEEP PRODUCTS.
lol did you forget about the British auto industry?
They'll have the last laugh. People used to say that about Japanese products.
What do you have against particle board - besides the fact that it is ugly, impossible to machine smooth, is utterly inconsistent in thickness over a given sheet of the stuff, cannot hold nails or screws, glues up poorly, has little structural integrity, is abrasive to tools, and disintegrates when wet?
I mean, aside from those little failings, what's not to love?
going back over and watching older podcasts and thought it funny that you were using US terms due to watching American podcasts, and I find myself saying imperial terms like "mil" now from watching yours so often. 5/8th? no that's 15mil, 1/2" no... 12 to 13mil, HAH!
Thanks for the reply, No not the neck it's the 6 little holes for the plate covering the trem springs.
Hey Curtis, I'm not Ben but I can help.
Take a toothpick. Cut it's length to the depth of the hole that is stripped. Now, using a knife, split that toothpick into 2 or 3 pieces. Watch your fingers! Depending on how stripped out the hole is, 1 or 2 pieces should suffice. Stick them in the hole with a drop of wood or super glue. Stripped hole problem fixed, at least for those little screws. Good luck!
or if you are copying a style: just trace around a fully built guitar onto a piece of cardboard, cut the cardboard out with scissors or an exacto knife, glue it onto the template, and then cut the template out with a bandsaw/router. if you use a router, you should make the cardboard stiff beforehand with clearcoat or something, and double layering it wont hurt.
OMG Sloooooow.
HDPE is a great template material
DON'T USE GUITAR TEMPLATES FROM TEMPLATE COMPANIES FOR ANYTHING BUT LAYOUT AND BASIC BODY SHAPE. THEY ARE ALWAYS WRONG UNLESS YOU BUILD THEM YOURSELF. I'VE FOUND A COUPLE PLACES THAT DO PRETTY GOOD BUT THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING OFF.
Damn! Get to the point already!!💤💤💤💤💤
A lot of brain farts. Yes you have to get back on track
dude we wanna know how and nothing else!
You digress a lot.
Too much passion and low production is the killer of any artist.
i'm poor but i don't want to use power tools...they scare me. o.O
A LOT of jibberjabber. You drift off-topic so easily, and all I gleaned from this vid is to use either MDF or acrylic...which I already knew lol