Hi, everyone, the design for the casefeeder is mine. I saw in the video that there are problems with the long calibers 7.5x55 6.5 Creedmore and .308 Since I only edit handgun calibers with the APP, I could only design these calibers on suspicion. Is there a need to revise the design or do all calibers fit? Many greetings, Bernard
Nice design Bernhard - I'm curious about the detents for the "case tube holder". What are you using for that? I believe for the taller cases - rifle length - there needs to be a "riser" to help the case from "tipping". Thanks in advance. Thanks for sharing Johnny - I always lean something form your content. Can you add a link to the Etsy page for the tube clamps?
@@patsgarage2575 Good morning Pat, instead of the Hornady Pins Jonny named in the video, I use M3 button head screws. In order to make the whole thing more durable, I have also included a version in which you can put the melt-down nuts. I'll sit down and rework the drop tubes and make a solid spacer for the screw connection. Because I'm from Germany, I naturally use metric screws. Would it be more helpful for you if I also redesigned it to use imperial screws?
@@Lawgewer in the us we often have metric hardware. And most 3d prints pulled from places like thingi have us using M hardware. So I don't think redesigns are needed.
Johnny.. Johnny.. I have been for one week trying to figure out (design)something like this to print it out in my nee 3D print!! Wow.. thank you a bunch !!
I like the Ender 5 plus. The extra bed capacity comes in handy. I buit a full case feeder and bullet feeder system for my hornady ap. Possibilities are endless for reloading. I’ve built casing sorters, die holders, mag loaders, ar milling guide, ak flat jig, scope lens covers, boxes (tons of them, never seem to have enough for reloading) just to name a few reloading related stuff. Definetly worth having around.
You can pick up a new ender 3 v2 for around 225$ now. It's getting really cheap to get into 3d printing now. I picked up a slightly used ender 3 v2 for $170 and it's been great! Only thing I would recommend to put on it is a BL touch which is an auto bed leveling probe, levels the bed for you which is the hardest thing to do when you get into 3d printing.
As stated earlier you need to use the Lee provided adapters. Using these will get you the height needed to support the taller cases to the shell holder. Also I would buy this adapter if it was available for sale. Great design! Lee should hire the engineer who made it.
I wish we had Jason's contact info . I am betting there are a few hundred people who would gladly pay 25 bucks or something to have these all printed for us.
If you like to tinker and really want to know your 3d printer inside and out get an Ender3. If you don't want to have to mess around and just want to print, get a prusa. The most important thing is calibrate, calibrate, calibrate. Once you are done calibrating, print a bunch of stuff to get used to your machine. After a couple months, then start printing critical stuff. And then after a couple months of that, start designing your own stuff in CAD (and that's when you start seeing the world differently, and everything is a 3d printing problem). Start with PLA or PETG, and then after a year try some of the other ones like ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate.
One thing on the 3d printer I would recommend is getting the biggest printing bed you can. My daughter got me one a couple years ago that has a 100mm bed and it just isn't big enough. Constantly having to slice up prints in tinkercad to fit the bed then glue together. Also get one with an injector that can handle the better filaments, PLA works for most things but can be quite fragile and degrades in UV light. Also get the equipment to keep your filament dry, most of them are hydroscopic and once they take on enough moisture they become brittle and unusable.
Personally, to thread the cutter into the lock stud, I just chuck up the case gauge into the drill and thread it real slow, works every time and saves the fingers
The v2 is good, the prusa is good. I've setup both. I have a few ender 3 pro's but I've modded about everything. If you go the ender route, there are a couple setup videos online that make a difference in print quality versus the directions that come with it. Also, the small roll of filament that come with it? Toss it, it is garbage filament. 3d fuel pro pla will save you any material headaches. It's also a good material for AR and glock receiver ;) I've run a small print shop on the side for a couple years now making euro mounts and ballhead aimable trail cam brackets. Once modded, the ender's have served me well.
I’m definitely interested in the 3D printing so hopefully tomorrow will be very eye opening on the printer that will work for what I want to do. I’m definitely interested in the smaller parts but also would like the option for other stuff in the pew pew world.
I have the original Ender 3 and love it. I've added the glass bed and upgraded to a better motherboard and it's dead nuts reliable. I do use purple Aqua Net to help the prints stick, but don't need a skirt or raft (spray on a puddle, preheat the bed until it's dry, then hit go).
Nice. I bought a lot of the stuff you bought on Etsy and I am considering buying a 3D printer myself for the same reasons. Now though, I am filtering through the choices to buy a Turret Press. It just looks perfect for me and I have no interest in a progressive press. I would like to "speed up production" but on my terms, if you know what I mean.
I just got one for Christmas its the AnyCubic Vyper its and chraper version of the Prusa and the Ender 3 V2 only with all of the upgrades i have already printed off several things for my APP press and others i even made a AR Mag Loader which works flawlessly big thumbs up
I have an Ender 3 Pro that works great. There are a bunch of aftermarket parts for it. I upgraded just for fun. I changed main board to a Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V2, TFT35 E3 V3 and a BLTouch. Printed upgrades for it too. I have used it to print a case prep station gears and all. Also printed parts for my Dillon 550B. Currently working on a case feeder and collator for the 550B. I use Tinkercad for my CAD work.
Here's a tip if you're having issues with the crab claws on the case shuttle not opening and closing properly. The rectangle slot on the front side of the shuttle, just to the right of the spring mount, Cut a thin strip of THIN cardboard like from a pack matches or THIN flap from a box top. make the strip wide enuff to fit snug, fold it to length of the height of the slot. Make 2-4 folds as needed to make it fit snug but not too tight. Slide it in from the top, bend the single layer tail over to keep it from falling down in the slot, and cut it short enuff to not catch on the spring. A little trial n error, and you will be amazed at how better the crab claws work. If you take the shuttle off and work it in your hands, you'll see what this shim does.
I am a big fan of the Ender 3 line. You can get Refurbished units on comgrow and they have been completely broken down and reassembled and ran. They also have a year long warranty. Now I have to look into getting a Lee APP. I usually process on my Hornady Progressive but this looks slick. I know you had a massively detailed video on it initially. Now I will have to go watch that again. Thanks JRB.
A kind member of the old discord channel printed those inserts for me about 18 months ago. Have been great. I think the rifle ones have a note they have a difference baseline setting.
I love that quick change system, set up once, works like a charm. But i haaaaaaaate the #19 9mm/.40 shell holder, stupid thing doesn't have enough engagement for 9mm rims so you can't resize 9mm unlubed with it, it'll rip a bit of the rim off at the up stroke. I know that Lee explicitly says the APP is not for resizing but come on
That was painful. Lol. You measure with the case in between the claw fingers, not from on top the shuttle. Of course while I was typing, you kind of figured it out. Lol. 👍. Every different caliber will require you to change the length on the threaded rod, I’ve never had problems with the Lee case feeder on the app. It’s a great little press. I have lost my 🤬🤬🤬🤬 many times using the case feeder on the breech-lock progressive. Wish it had the fingers on it like the app. 🙁🙁🙁🙁
The creality ender 3 v2 or the creality ender 3 pro are both good starter 3d printers. The 2 things I would also buy starting out are a raspberry pie to setup octopie on and be able to print over wifi so you don't have to walk an SD card to the printer for every print and a spool of filament because the stuff creality sends is terrible filament.
You need to use the thicker red base for the short cases, then switch to the thin red base for the tall cases. If you measure the amount those 3 were too long I bet you will find it is the thickness of the thick red base.
My ender 3 has been turning out all kinds of fun stuff for years now. Well paid for itself by this time. From nicknacks to firearms that go Boo! It hasnt done me wrong yet.
I’m fairly new to 3D printing and am running a Creality 3 V2. I’ve had decent luck with it, and have printed a bullet feeder, and some adapters to use a Dillon case feeder with the Lee APP.
I think as far as bang for your buck it’s Ganna be the ender 3 pro. I had done quite a bit of research on the creality line and the version before the pro I had plans to update the driver board and self leveling bed to it still came way under its price range for quality. But never pulled the trigger the pro looks awesome! Hope this may help
I've been 3D printing for 9 years. The enders are really good value for money. Bit of a learning curve. But feel free to reach out if you need help with anything.
At some point there will be a windfall when you have a 3d printer, you get it running good, and you have some CAD skills. At that point you can make anything you want. It's freedom.
I have the Ender3v2 and recommend it as long as you don’t mind tinkering. The CR Touch auto bed leveling add-on is a must, though. I’m working on printing boxes for my Ballistic Tools gages… those little plastic baggies they come in end up all over my bench.
Most 3d printers have a frustrating set up and dial in process. If you're only printing small parts look at something like the draper or similar that come assembled. If you want to print something like an fgc9 then the frustrating process is worth the money saved for the large build volume. Personally I use a tenlog dual nozzle for the dispolvable support ability and I only print in a carbonfiber filament.
3D Printer advice: Either go above what you think you'll need and go custom with a Rat Rig (worth every penny) or keep it simple and DON'T MESS WITH IT with an Ender 3 V2. The other versions like the Pro and whatever else they have now are not any better and are often times lacking something. A lot of the time, the resin-based printers may work better for reloading type stuff because they are capable of much finer detail and a lot of what we deal with are small parts. I don't have advice on which of those to get though. TeachingTech and TH3D on youtube is GREAT for precise information regarding this stuff. TH3D is the type of guy to answer your questions on live streams as well.
Being new into the 3d printing world I would never recommend a rat rig for an entry level printer... The ender 3 v2 is the same as the pro with a glass bed and a fancy screen (which I love). The resin printers are messy and not quite as simple so while they can be more dimensionally accurate most enders can get within +-.3% which is plenty accurate for 99% of objects if not some hand fitting can be done afterwards.
@@rileyneufeld7001 The instructions and support for the rat rigs leave little to be desired. It's not like the Ender 3 comes pre-assembled either, but they lack the pictures and instructions that the Rat Rig comes with. I wouldn't bring that suggestion anywhere, but here it makes perfect sense don't you think? The people watching this channel as well as Johnny (I don't know his real name) are not average individuals and are plenty capable of following instructions. The difference though is astronomical in the end product. After starting with an Ender 6 and then slowly modifying it to get it to where I was happy with it, I would have much rather received this advice myself.
I have 3 of the Ender 3 Pros. 1 is bone stock the other 2 have been upgraded with new controller boards. One with Hermera Direct drive and the other is just 3d Printed Direct drive conversion. They all print great but use the Direct drive units the most. All run on Ocotprint off raspberry Pi
Very cool jrb . My wife sister husband just got a 3d printer right before Christmas not sure what it is. He's made few cool things on it for her and the kids .
Having a 3D printer is worth it. Got my Ender 3 Pro for only $100 on sale from Microcenter and with their $100 off coupon. It is another rabbit hole to go down as you'll want to install upgrades and accessories. Some of those you can print up, fortunately.
They hate the snow and aren't wandering back in that area right now. I'm going to try to do some cleanup. At the very least I'll bring buckets of water from the creek and get rid of the powder.
YES!!! It's really a great machine. The Ender 3 v2 is great, but still requires upgrades or tinkering to get running reliably. The S1 is a huge step towards true plug and play.
I love the case feeder upgrade I have Lee loadmaster also app machine. I would love the case feeder upgrade is it possible to buy several of those units from you?
Hello, first of all best wishes for 2023. I have just had the LEE APP prese, and I wish to have your system for the 4 tubes plus the adapters according to the calibers. Where can I get this, please? I have the tubes and the case collator. I live in France Thank you in advance Thank you for this very informative video.
I think if you could make this 6 tubes and use the DAA collator with the Lee tubes would be awesome. Could increase or change how the attachment rod supports the feed assembly since your system no longer needs height adjustment.
I’m pretty sure it’s because you set the height for the x39 after you realized your first mistake. The first time you did it you set it for the 7.5 I think if you set it for the 7.5, it’ll work for everything
Think of an Ender 3 like an Anderson lower. It's cheap, but ultimately it can get as good as you personally want to make it. A Prusa i3 is more like a Daniel Defense or BCM, in that its supposed to work well straight out of the box. If I was gonna do it again, I'd go for the prusa. Might get another one anyways though
Any recommendation on where to get one of these adapters(with the inserts)? I have enough “projects” going on right now so investing into a 3D printer isn’t in the cards for me at this time.
just a guess. is the difference in height between the three long case settup and everything else close to the height of the riser? might adjust to the longest case then use the riser for shorter cases.
Want another hit your forehead moment? Turn the standard shell holder 90 degrease when seating bullets. Also you could have decapped those x39s with a #2 shell holder. I am sure you have a wall near by.
just found this video, but maybe try putting the low riser and set the overall height of the tube holder to the tallest casing, then when you switch out to the shorter casings use the tall riser late?
WIth the taller cases we use a taller Riser are taking that into consideration with the Height of the drop tubes? I am going to Print this out tomorrow. Probably will not be able to look at the over all fit until next weekend but I can atleast get it printed to see if it will be something I want to use on mine. For 9mm I use a Home made Case feeder instead of the crappy collator.
I have 7 3d printers they are great get an ender 3 for fdm printing then look into getting a resin 3d printer also opens up so much more options with strength of resins over plastic
Ender 3 v2 or if money isn't as much of an issue go with the prusa i3 mk3s+ if you're not willing to fiddle with stuff. Either way, 3d printing is a learning adventure of tweaking and tuning much like reloading is.
could you please leave a link to buy the Spring Hex Socket Ball Point set and the screw size for the center hole of the 3D printed set thanks for your help
I got my daughter a Tevo Tornado (similar reality Cr10 size) for around $179. My experience has been so-so, as a first time user. It works, but the screen was soo dark you couldn't see it, it lacks some of the finer points of others, but is by far the cheapest big printer; its like 12x12x16 inches. So, I don't know if that's the same experience with all first time printers, or if the Tevo is just less refined then Creality
I don't know about the 3D printer, but I know you need to add #12 item #91545 for the 7.62x39 and a #16 item # 91549 for the 7.62x54R. I shop on Titan or eBay for my Lee stuff. After those places I then try other places like Midway.
JRB I recently connected with a couple of great guys printing 3D press parts and would love to share with the class if its ok with you. Got a 3D printed swaging head and 3D printed feeders. If your ok with me posting links that would be great.
Johnny do you think 7.62x39 is really worth reloading for a SKS? I have the dies, some cases, and bullets, but steel is so cheep I just wonder if it is worth it.
Hi, everyone,
the design for the casefeeder is mine. I saw in the video that there are problems with the long calibers
7.5x55
6.5 Creedmore and .308
Since I only edit handgun calibers with the APP, I could only design these calibers on suspicion.
Is there a need to revise the design or do all calibers fit?
Many greetings,
Bernard
Nice design Bernhard - I'm curious about the detents for the "case tube holder". What are you using for that? I believe for the taller cases - rifle length - there needs to be a "riser" to help the case from "tipping". Thanks in advance. Thanks for sharing Johnny - I always lean something form your content. Can you add a link to the Etsy page for the tube clamps?
Nice job! I’ve set mine up to be fed from a Dillon case feeder, but adjusting the height of the stock tube holder is indeed a pain.
@@patsgarage2575 Good morning Pat, instead of the Hornady Pins Jonny named in the video, I use M3 button head screws.
In order to make the whole thing more durable, I have also included a version in which you can put the melt-down nuts.
I'll sit down and rework the drop tubes and make a solid spacer for the screw connection.
Because I'm from Germany, I naturally use metric screws. Would it be more helpful for you if I also redesigned it to use imperial screws?
How much would you charge to print this with 9mm, 40S&W,45acp, 223 and Blackout inserts only?
@@Lawgewer in the us we often have metric hardware. And most 3d prints pulled from places like thingi have us using M hardware. So I don't think redesigns are needed.
Johnny.. Johnny.. I have been for one week trying to figure out (design)something like this to print it out in my nee 3D print!! Wow.. thank you a bunch !!
I like the Ender 5 plus. The extra bed capacity comes in handy.
I buit a full case feeder and bullet feeder system for my hornady ap.
Possibilities are endless for reloading. I’ve built casing sorters, die holders, mag loaders, ar milling guide, ak flat jig, scope lens covers, boxes (tons of them, never seem to have enough for reloading) just to name a few reloading related stuff.
Definetly worth having around.
You can pick up a new ender 3 v2 for around 225$ now. It's getting really cheap to get into 3d printing now. I picked up a slightly used ender 3 v2 for $170 and it's been great! Only thing I would recommend to put on it is a BL touch which is an auto bed leveling probe, levels the bed for you which is the hardest thing to do when you get into 3d printing.
I just got an Ender 3v2 this last Christmas and have had no troubles with leveling so far.
Pfft ender 3 v1 $100
As stated earlier you need to use the Lee provided adapters. Using these will get you the height needed to support the taller cases to the shell holder. Also I would buy this adapter if it was available for sale. Great design! Lee should hire the engineer who made it.
I wish we had Jason's contact info . I am betting there are a few hundred people who would gladly pay 25 bucks or something to have these all printed for us.
If you like to tinker and really want to know your 3d printer inside and out get an Ender3. If you don't want to have to mess around and just want to print, get a prusa. The most important thing is calibrate, calibrate, calibrate. Once you are done calibrating, print a bunch of stuff to get used to your machine. After a couple months, then start printing critical stuff. And then after a couple months of that, start designing your own stuff in CAD (and that's when you start seeing the world differently, and everything is a 3d printing problem). Start with PLA or PETG, and then after a year try some of the other ones like ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate.
One thing on the 3d printer I would recommend is getting the biggest printing bed you can. My daughter got me one a couple years ago that has a 100mm bed and it just isn't big enough. Constantly having to slice up prints in tinkercad to fit the bed then glue together. Also get one with an injector that can handle the better filaments, PLA works for most things but can be quite fragile and degrades in UV light. Also get the equipment to keep your filament dry, most of them are hydroscopic and once they take on enough moisture they become brittle and unusable.
This right here is one of the cool things about 3D printer.
Personally, to thread the cutter into the lock stud, I just chuck up the case gauge into the drill and thread it real slow, works every time and saves the fingers
The v2 is good, the prusa is good. I've setup both. I have a few ender 3 pro's but I've modded about everything. If you go the ender route, there are a couple setup videos online that make a difference in print quality versus the directions that come with it. Also, the small roll of filament that come with it? Toss it, it is garbage filament. 3d fuel pro pla will save you any material headaches. It's also a good material for AR and glock receiver ;)
I've run a small print shop on the side for a couple years now making euro mounts and ballhead aimable trail cam brackets. Once modded, the ender's have served me well.
I like the pins over the screws, it functions like the toolhead on a [taboo blue brand] progressive press.
I’m definitely interested in the 3D printing so hopefully tomorrow will be very eye opening on the printer that will work for what I want to do. I’m definitely interested in the smaller parts but also would like the option for other stuff in the pew pew world.
This is a much better idea than what I did, which is simply cutting pieces of tubing for each caliber and bullet to make adjustments faster.
Looked MUCH better once you got it aligned and working. Wich something like this was abailable for the Loadmaster case feed and it's case pusher.
Always love seeing more on the 7.62x39. And the 3d printed stuff is pretty sweet.
My son just got a 3D printer this weekend. I think I just found his first project. :)
I have the original Ender 3 and love it. I've added the glass bed and upgraded to a better motherboard and it's dead nuts reliable. I do use purple Aqua Net to help the prints stick, but don't need a skirt or raft (spray on a puddle, preheat the bed until it's dry, then hit go).
try a PEI sheet, it'll change your life
Nice. I bought a lot of the stuff you bought on Etsy and I am considering buying a 3D printer myself for the same reasons. Now though, I am filtering through the choices to buy a Turret Press. It just looks perfect for me and I have no interest in a progressive press. I would like to "speed up production" but on my terms, if you know what I mean.
“If you’re watching this a year from now it’s too late” as I watch it almost exactly a year later
I just got one for Christmas its the AnyCubic Vyper its and chraper version of the Prusa and the Ender 3 V2 only with all of the upgrades i have already printed off several things for my APP press and others i even made a AR Mag Loader which works flawlessly big thumbs up
Get a Prusa. They're considerably more expensive, but worth every dime. One time setup and it works forever. No tinkering, just works.
I have an Ender 3 Pro that works great. There are a bunch of aftermarket parts for it. I upgraded just for fun. I changed main board to a Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V2, TFT35 E3 V3 and a BLTouch. Printed upgrades for it too. I have used it to print a case prep station gears and all. Also printed parts for my Dillon 550B. Currently working on a case feeder and collator for the 550B. I use Tinkercad for my CAD work.
Here's a tip if you're having issues with the crab claws on the case shuttle not opening and closing properly.
The rectangle slot on the front side of the shuttle, just to the right of the spring mount,
Cut a thin strip of THIN cardboard like from a pack matches or THIN flap from a box top.
make the strip wide enuff to fit snug, fold it to length of the height of the slot.
Make 2-4 folds as needed to make it fit snug but not too tight.
Slide it in from the top, bend the single layer tail over to keep it from falling down in the slot, and cut it short enuff to not catch on the spring.
A little trial n error, and you will be amazed at how better the crab claws work.
If you take the shuttle off and work it in your hands, you'll see what this shim does.
I am a big fan of the Ender 3 line. You can get Refurbished units on comgrow and they have been completely broken down and reassembled and ran. They also have a year long warranty. Now I have to look into getting a Lee APP. I usually process on my Hornady Progressive but this looks slick. I know you had a massively detailed video on it initially. Now I will have to go watch that again. Thanks JRB.
A kind member of the old discord channel printed those inserts for me about 18 months ago. Have been great. I think the rifle ones have a note they have a difference baseline setting.
I recently just got a Ender 3v2 3D printer and have been having fun coming up with ideas to print.
Good stuff! I got my son printing me a set now.
I love that quick change system, set up once, works like a charm.
But i haaaaaaaate the #19 9mm/.40 shell holder, stupid thing doesn't have enough engagement for 9mm rims so you can't resize 9mm unlubed with it, it'll rip a bit of the rim off at the up stroke.
I know that Lee explicitly says the APP is not for resizing but come on
Came across this video last night and was like "I want one" LOL. Came to thingiverse this morning.....files have been pulled. Came up short again. :(
They are being sold on ebay
@@tynado1173 Yea author got greedy. Luckily you cannot un-GPL things.
Pretty slick , case feeder for an annealer would be sweet !
That was painful. Lol. You measure with the case in between the claw fingers, not from on top the shuttle. Of course while I was typing, you kind of figured it out. Lol. 👍. Every different caliber will require you to change the length on the threaded rod, I’ve never had problems with the Lee case feeder on the app. It’s a great little press. I have lost my 🤬🤬🤬🤬 many times using the case feeder on the breech-lock progressive. Wish it had the fingers on it like the app. 🙁🙁🙁🙁
Nice setup with the 3D printed stuff. Like that 👍
The creality ender 3 v2 or the creality ender 3 pro are both good starter 3d printers. The 2 things I would also buy starting out are a raspberry pie to setup octopie on and be able to print over wifi so you don't have to walk an SD card to the printer for every print and a spool of filament because the stuff creality sends is terrible filament.
You need to use the thicker red base for the short cases, then switch to the thin red base for the tall cases. If you measure the amount those 3 were too long I bet you will find it is the thickness of the thick red base.
Came down to say this exact same thing.
My ender 3 has been turning out all kinds of fun stuff for years now. Well paid for itself by this time. From nicknacks to firearms that go Boo! It hasnt done me wrong yet.
I’m fairly new to 3D printing and am running a Creality 3 V2. I’ve had decent luck with it, and have printed a bullet feeder, and some adapters to use a Dillon case feeder with the Lee APP.
I think a good upgrade for this would have been some 1/4 - 28 threqded rod and nuts. You'd get a lot more positive feel from that wheb tightening
I think as far as bang for your buck it’s Ganna be the ender 3 pro. I had done quite a bit of research on the creality line and the version before the pro I had plans to update the driver board and self leveling bed to it still came way under its price range for quality. But never pulled the trigger the pro looks awesome! Hope this may help
I've been 3D printing for 9 years. The enders are really good value for money. Bit of a learning curve. But feel free to reach out if you need help with anything.
When you were seating, should have removed the spring and shuttle, just use it like a regular press.
At some point there will be a windfall when you have a 3d printer, you get it running good, and you have some CAD skills. At that point you can make anything you want. It's freedom.
I have the Ender3v2 and recommend it as long as you don’t mind tinkering. The CR Touch auto bed leveling add-on is a must, though. I’m working on printing boxes for my Ballistic Tools gages… those little plastic baggies they come in end up all over my bench.
Most 3d printers have a frustrating set up and dial in process. If you're only printing small parts look at something like the draper or similar that come assembled. If you want to print something like an fgc9 then the frustrating process is worth the money saved for the large build volume. Personally I use a tenlog dual nozzle for the dispolvable support ability and I only print in a carbonfiber filament.
3D Printer advice: Either go above what you think you'll need and go custom with a Rat Rig (worth every penny) or keep it simple and DON'T MESS WITH IT with an Ender 3 V2. The other versions like the Pro and whatever else they have now are not any better and are often times lacking something.
A lot of the time, the resin-based printers may work better for reloading type stuff because they are capable of much finer detail and a lot of what we deal with are small parts. I don't have advice on which of those to get though.
TeachingTech and TH3D on youtube is GREAT for precise information regarding this stuff. TH3D is the type of guy to answer your questions on live streams as well.
Being new into the 3d printing world I would never recommend a rat rig for an entry level printer... The ender 3 v2 is the same as the pro with a glass bed and a fancy screen (which I love). The resin printers are messy and not quite as simple so while they can be more dimensionally accurate most enders can get within +-.3% which is plenty accurate for 99% of objects if not some hand fitting can be done afterwards.
@@rileyneufeld7001 The instructions and support for the rat rigs leave little to be desired. It's not like the Ender 3 comes pre-assembled either, but they lack the pictures and instructions that the Rat Rig comes with.
I wouldn't bring that suggestion anywhere, but here it makes perfect sense don't you think? The people watching this channel as well as Johnny (I don't know his real name) are not average individuals and are plenty capable of following instructions. The difference though is astronomical in the end product.
After starting with an Ender 6 and then slowly modifying it to get it to where I was happy with it, I would have much rather received this advice myself.
Yes, you will find all the files on Cults also for the Loadmaster and the new SixPack.
CR-6 SE Creality is one I like the most . I have the creality ender 3 pro and the S2 and I have had the least amount of issues with the CR-6 SE
I have 3 of the Ender 3 Pros. 1 is bone stock the other 2 have been upgraded with new controller boards. One with Hermera Direct drive and the other is just 3d Printed Direct drive conversion. They all print great but use the Direct drive units the most. All run on Ocotprint off raspberry Pi
I use a 6-tube case feeder with a Lee Loadmaster.
Very cool jrb . My wife sister husband just got a 3d printer right before Christmas not sure what it is. He's made few cool things on it for her and the kids .
Having a 3D printer is worth it. Got my Ender 3 Pro for only $100 on sale from Microcenter and with their $100 off coupon. It is another rabbit hole to go down as you'll want to install upgrades and accessories. Some of those you can print up, fortunately.
Also i hooked up a hornady case feeder to mine works like a charm.
That stuff won't hurt the chickens will it?
They hate the snow and aren't wandering back in that area right now. I'm going to try to do some cleanup. At the very least I'll bring buckets of water from the creek and get rid of the powder.
I'll poke in the live stream - Ender 3 is the way to go. The new "s1" model with auto bed leveling is probably my recommendation.
YES!!! It's really a great machine. The Ender 3 v2 is great, but still requires upgrades or tinkering to get running reliably. The S1 is a huge step towards true plug and play.
Will this unit also do other stuff like lowers
@@Johnny-jr2lq yep.
@@Johnny-jr2lq Yep AR lowers, 10/22 and many other types of frames
I love the case feeder upgrade I have Lee loadmaster also app machine. I would love the case feeder upgrade is it possible to buy several of those units from you?
Hey Johnny! Helpful video. Would like to get the same case feeder in 9mm. Is it possible to purchase the same case feeder from Jason?
Hello, first of all best wishes for 2023. I have just had the LEE APP prese, and I wish to have your system for the 4 tubes plus the adapters according to the calibers. Where can I get this, please? I have the tubes and the case collator.
I live in France
Thank you in advance
Thank you for this very informative video.
I think if you could make this 6 tubes and use the DAA collator with the Lee tubes would be awesome. Could increase or change how the attachment rod supports the feed assembly since your system no longer needs height adjustment.
For what it costs, the ender 3 pro is a good place to start. You can spend a lot more but unless your serious about printing the ender is fine.
I’m pretty sure it’s because you set the height for the x39 after you realized your first mistake. The first time you did it you set it for the 7.5 I think if you set it for the 7.5, it’ll work for everything
Which Hornady Die Decapping Pins? Large or Small?
Glad you got it!
Did you design these??
Did you print the case feeder adapter thing? And how much do you charge?
I just want something to eject my completed rounds from a lee turret press.
@@8mmmauser896 I did print this but I am not selling because it would violate the Creative Commons license for the design
@@jasonmynheir4139 if I donated some filament for you to practice with and you send me the parts🤔😉😉
God I miss this guy. Hope you doing fine sir
Think of an Ender 3 like an Anderson lower. It's cheap, but ultimately it can get as good as you personally want to make it. A Prusa i3 is more like a Daniel Defense or BCM, in that its supposed to work well straight out of the box.
If I was gonna do it again, I'd go for the prusa. Might get another one anyways though
lol you can take the pony off the anderson, but it's still an anderson... 💩💩💩
@@brianfield9252 An anderson lower is exactly as good as a daniel defense lower. Expensive lowers are absolutely no better in any way.
@@brianfield9252 is it any wonder why the Anderson horse and the ender dragon look similar?
Creality Ender 5 Pro is what i use, love it.
Any recommendation on where to get one of these adapters(with the inserts)? I have enough “projects” going on right now so investing into a 3D printer isn’t in the cards for me at this time.
just a guess. is the difference in height between the three long case settup and everything else close to the height of the riser? might adjust to the longest case then use the riser for shorter cases.
Want another hit your forehead moment? Turn the standard shell holder 90 degrease when seating bullets. Also you could have decapped those x39s with a #2 shell holder. I am sure you have a wall near by.
just found this video, but maybe try putting the low riser and set the overall height of the tube holder to the tallest casing, then when you switch out to the shorter casings use the tall riser late?
WIth the taller cases we use a taller Riser are taking that into consideration with the Height of the drop tubes? I am going to Print this out tomorrow. Probably will not be able to look at the over all fit until next weekend but I can atleast get it printed to see if it will be something I want to use on mine. For 9mm I use a Home made Case feeder instead of the crappy collator.
I have 7 3d printers they are great get an ender 3 for fdm printing then look into getting a resin 3d printer also opens up so much more options with strength of resins over plastic
Who made the insert case feeder thing, and shut up and take my money!
Very interested in the case feeder for APP and where to buy one!
Did you ever buy a 3D printer? Which one? I love my Prusa MK3S+ and would buy the new MK4 now for my first one.
The link is broken to the 3d files. Is there an updated link?
Ender 3 works awsome
I suggest you set it up to print PETG plastic
Ender 3 v2 or if money isn't as much of an issue go with the prusa i3 mk3s+ if you're not willing to fiddle with stuff. Either way, 3d printing is a learning adventure of tweaking and tuning much like reloading is.
could you please leave a link to buy the Spring Hex Socket Ball Point set and the screw size for the center hole of the 3D printed set thanks for your help
Seems like someone could print a spacer that would set the height of the unit. Something that slips over the 1/4 - 20 bolt.
That thingiverse link in the description does not appear to be working.
I got my daughter a Tevo Tornado (similar reality Cr10 size) for around $179. My experience has been so-so, as a first time user. It works, but the screen was soo dark you couldn't see it, it lacks some of the finer points of others, but is by far the cheapest big printer; its like 12x12x16 inches. So, I don't know if that's the same experience with all first time printers, or if the Tevo is just less refined then Creality
Great video. Will you email the stl’s for the print? Lees version stinks.
The files are no longer available on Thingiverse. Does anyone have the files they can send?
Do u have a web site for the 3 d items thanks
My only 3D printing advice is to get one, and play with it.
I don't know about the 3D printer, but I know you need to add #12 item #91545 for the 7.62x39 and a #16 item # 91549 for the 7.62x54R.
I shop on Titan or eBay for my Lee stuff. After those places I then try other places like Midway.
I run two ender 3 pro v2 and there great for the money. I do like my cr10 pro v2 better. But that does cost about 300. Both good printers though
JRB I recently connected with a couple of great guys printing 3D press parts and would love to share with the class if its ok with you. Got a 3D printed swaging head and 3D printed feeders. If your ok with me posting links that would be great.
I'd go prusa mini or a flashforge adventurer 3 that's what I run
Where did you getthe case slider with the jawls
Johnny do you think 7.62x39 is really worth reloading for a SKS? I have the dies, some cases, and bullets, but steel is so cheep I just wonder if it is worth it.
If you want to tinker with your printer get the Ender 3 Pro. If you want a no hassle printer that works out of the box get a Prusa Mini.
as usual, great vid!!
You didn't have the bayonet extended when shooting those enemy fire extinguishers.
;)
Ender 3 is a good choice they can be on sale for 100$ at microcenter sometime
Shannon does the caliber inserts load from the s8de or the front🤔
Hi where can I get one for my lee app
Had a cr10s for a good while got a ender 6 no regrets
Where can you buy this?
I see a 3d printed case feeder in your future.... :)