Another Old school trick from the 50's. some of the rims were rivited verses welded back then. Much easier with rivets. Knock em out , reverse em & weld em up.
Great job. That little amount of runout won’t be an issue at all. I can’t believe how many people are hating on this. Ignore them. Its always better to re-use rebuild and restore. Plus, you’re getting a huge sense of accomplishment doing it this way. Anyone can work OT and solve their issues with money. I’d way rather use skill, creativity, and ingenuity. I’m with you all the way! Check out my videos on budget engine tech!
Thanks for the comment! Yeah those comments are even funnier now than when I posted the video, now that the costs of everything have doubled and we've had shipping delays lately. Wonder if they would still throw away money for no reason rather than spend an hour fixing a problem for free...
It was a pretty common thing back in the day on lead sleds and some hot rods. What's cool is on my Mustang it allows me to run the 14" wheels in the front with the Granada disc brakes. Usually you have to change to a 15" wheel.
those are some big holes to weld up I would have been surprised if they didn't leak. Did you paint the inside of the rim that could/should have stopped air leakage?
To think, I just got a piece of DOM tube and sleeved then extended my Axle 2-1/2 inches on my similar trailer, put a piece of C channel to strengthen the spring points outward on each side, to get a near same result. And moved my fenders out 1" each
One of the reasons I just changed the wheels is because I have a 65 Mustang that I put full-size disc brakes on, but I can still run 14" wheels in the front if they are reversed. This way these wheels with fit either one. Your way puts a little more stress on the axle but I'm sure it still works just as well.
Not to mention the heat from welding, drawing in at the welds and throwing the wheel alignment off. I swear, you guys aught to talk to racers, before doing this stuff. If you think it will save time and money over doing it the right way, we'll show you the scrap pile of your ideas we've already tried, and the 90% that didn't work.
This is exactly what I need to do. Trailer spare with a a rare pcd But the offset fouls the trailers springs. Cheers mate If I’m using this spare max mph will be about 40
What would the issue be with using longer wheel studs and spacers? Much quicker, cleaner and most likely cheaper and let’s not forget, they run true. The list of guys that use them on their 4x4’s is immeasurable. Using them for a trailer? No brainer. Remember, labor has a cost as well, I know my time is worth something. Don’t sell yourself short, your time is as well. The time saved along with the consumables, hole saw usage (as little as it was) and the step bit life you used up, the electricity, the wire, the shield gas etc. The list goes on and on. I commend your ambition and your obvious skills however, keep up the ingenuity but also keep in mind your options. And remember safety first!!!
The issue us that I didn't have longer wheels studs and spacers, and I wasn't about to spend 50 bucks and wait a week for them to come in the mail. I didn't spend thousands of dollars buying tools and hundreds of hours learning to use them to be worried about spending the 37 cents of electricity that it cost to run my welder for this project. If you consider spending free time out in the shop building cool shit with what you have on hand as a waste of time, then I really feel bad for you.
I can tell you from experience, longer studs and spacers aren't the easy solution they seem to be. Hard on the wheel bearings. You have to inspect them, and repack them more often.
I was just thinking aloud with that one, the original welds weren't aligned at all so it wasn't going to line back up by doing that anyways. Filling in the old holes and just making more plug welds is the way to go.
Hey Bud. I've reversed many a steel wheels back in my days or Racing. I wanted to add,Instead of using Lead FIXED weights, Use COPPER BB's !!!!. And put about 3/4 to 1 ounce of weight in each tire. Just dump them inside the tire when your mounting them onto the wheel !!. This will keep your tire balanced FOREVER !! And it helps compensate for the "Off" Balance from flipping and rewelding the centers !!. BTW, I use BB's instead of Fixed lead weights on EVERY Vehicles I own !!. Works GREAT on Big Truck Tires, And Big MUD Tires !!. You will hear the little "Tinks" from the BB's hitting the rim until you reach 5-10 MPH, After that the centrifugal forces of the tire spinning will balance out the BB"s inside the tire ! This makes a PERFECT BALANCE FOREVER !! Even with low pressure or flat spots on the tires !! Even if you get a big clump of mug stuck inside the wheel !! I've been doing this for over 20 year's and everyone in my family and circle of friends do it !!. No matter what, Your tire will NEVER be off balanced !!. Try it !! And with this method of balancing, You don't have to spend near as much time trying to get the centers "Perfect" inside the rims when reversing them. Makes life much easier !!. Have fun. Ohh,BTW, I'm looking for some CHEAP Steel wheels for a old Land Rover. 5x6.5 Lug Pattern. Prefer 15 inch wheels but will take 16's. Need STEEL Only !!. Will pay for shipping !!. Thx.
I've heard of that from off road guys, I haven't tried it yet but I think I will on the next set of tires I do. I'd still get the runout as close as possible just so they look good going down the road. But I'll definitely try copper BBs for balance, thanks!
Cost me a few feet of welding wire and a couple hours of my time. Why would it not be worth it, I'm building what I need out of what I have instead of spending $200 on some chinese aftermarket wheels off the internet like every other goof.
Cost wise it is cheaper to buy a white wagon wheel style rim for $30. But he is like my boss, he has me build shit out of scrap metal and it cost him 2-3x more than buying new. The only thing I can rationalize why is it gives him a sense of pride that his vehicles are "hand crafted". For me, it only improves my mindset and skills to create a finished project out of scrap metal, you know- just in case zombie outbreak and people have to go back to depression era.
Repurposing with craftsmanship is never ever not worth it, and judging everything in comparison to wastefully new chinesium because of two stinted hours is what made economy and society broke and disfunctional in the first place. "Built not bought!" by principle is it what brings technology back under Your own control.
Well, I personally am more a "Made in Bavaria" or "Made in Germany" kinda guy, obviously, but You should nonetheless think and build american. It is, by the way, a good thing for us Germans to impose Trump Tariffs, for our starved-to-death by trade surplusses suicidal domestic market is talked about now the first time in more than 20 years ....
I don't think they'll going to take over, but it is already now a quite different situation then 2015, with those rightwingers in all 16 state's parliaments. It's a pity that they are such an absolutely total failure when it comes to macroeconomy and economical boundary conditions, thanks to their original founder Lucke and his bankster buddies... .
First, that doesn't necessarily change the offset. Second, not likely to stay tight due to the coining being on the other side of the lug hole. Third, without the coining for the lugnut to fit into, the wheel would constantly be shifting on the hub, loosening the lug nuts, then causing the stud to break.
Just the opinion of a smartass here,but I'd rather work a few hrs a week overtime for maybe a month,then bought brand new,machine round,machine balanced, wheels to fit needed application.Maybe save a few dollars shopping in a salvage yard. Just me though.
If you want to spend another month waiting for garbage from china then be my guest, this got me a better quality wheel on my trailer in an afternoon. As a fellow smartass I might point out that the title is "old school tech" not "how to blend with every other modern-age idiot"
Dear Jr .. you have it wrong if you want the DEEP dish to face out your putting it back together wrong .. the deep dish faces OUT with the bolt flange ....You said Quote the shallow dish will face my frame the deep dish will face OUT .. That's isn't it bro..
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Good job and more importantly ambitious to learn by using the skills you have. Your previous instructors are proud of you.
Awesome job you make us old schoolers proud your carrying on the old tredichion
Another Old school trick from the 50's. some of the rims were rivited verses welded back then. Much easier with rivets. Knock em out , reverse em & weld em up.
Great job. That little amount of runout won’t be an issue at all. I can’t believe how many people are hating on this. Ignore them. Its always better to re-use rebuild and restore. Plus, you’re getting a huge sense of accomplishment doing it this way. Anyone can work OT and solve their issues with money. I’d way rather use skill, creativity, and ingenuity. I’m with you all the way! Check out my videos on budget engine tech!
Thanks for the comment! Yeah those comments are even funnier now than when I posted the video, now that the costs of everything have doubled and we've had shipping delays lately. Wonder if they would still throw away money for no reason rather than spend an hour fixing a problem for free...
@@SuperKONR they probably would keep wasting money. Idiots tend to remain idiots hahaha
Very ambitious project. Looks like it is going to give you the results you were after.
Nice job.
Thanks! It worked well, I had no problems towing scrap iron around town.
Never seen that done befor. Interesting bit of old school tech.
It was a pretty common thing back in the day on lead sleds and some hot rods. What's cool is on my Mustang it allows me to run the 14" wheels in the front with the Granada disc brakes. Usually you have to change to a 15" wheel.
those are some big holes to weld up I would have been surprised if they didn't leak. Did you paint the inside of the rim that could/should have stopped air leakage?
To think, I just got a piece of DOM tube and sleeved then extended my Axle 2-1/2 inches on my similar trailer, put a piece of C channel to strengthen the spring points outward on each side, to get a near same result. And moved my fenders out 1" each
One of the reasons I just changed the wheels is because I have a 65 Mustang that I put full-size disc brakes on, but I can still run 14" wheels in the front if they are reversed. This way these wheels with fit either one. Your way puts a little more stress on the axle but I'm sure it still works just as well.
Not to mention the heat from welding, drawing in at the welds and throwing the wheel alignment off.
I swear, you guys aught to talk to racers, before doing this stuff. If you think it will save time and money over doing it the right way, we'll show you the scrap pile of your ideas we've already tried, and the 90% that didn't work.
Damn, i'd love if you'd make two sets of that style rim for a 6x6.5. Love the look of those wheels! :D
william petersen dude your avatar has me dying 😂
Pretty cool. Nice job.
Thanks!
This is exactly what I need to do. Trailer spare with a a rare pcd
But the offset fouls the trailers springs. Cheers mate If I’m using this spare max mph will be about 40
As long as your welds are up to par you can run as fast as the tire will let you. Good luck!
You can order coin blanks in mild steel from ebay, cheap
I'll have to get some of those to keep on hand, thanks
What would the issue be with using longer wheel studs and spacers? Much quicker, cleaner and most likely cheaper and let’s not forget, they run true. The list of guys that use them on their 4x4’s is immeasurable. Using them for a trailer? No brainer. Remember, labor has a cost as well, I know my time is worth something. Don’t sell yourself short, your time is as well. The time saved along with the consumables, hole saw usage (as little as it was) and the step bit life you used up, the electricity, the wire, the shield gas etc. The list goes on and on. I commend your ambition and your obvious skills however, keep up the ingenuity but also keep in mind your options. And remember safety first!!!
The issue us that I didn't have longer wheels studs and spacers, and I wasn't about to spend 50 bucks and wait a week for them to come in the mail. I didn't spend thousands of dollars buying tools and hundreds of hours learning to use them to be worried about spending the 37 cents of electricity that it cost to run my welder for this project. If you consider spending free time out in the shop building cool shit with what you have on hand as a waste of time, then I really feel bad for you.
I can tell you from experience, longer studs and spacers aren't the easy solution they seem to be. Hard on the wheel bearings. You have to inspect them, and repack them more often.
And remember. This is a how to video. This isn't a video for a trailer. Its a video that teaches you about how to modify steel rims. So.. Yeah
Is there any negative effect? Does it damage the axel or the bearings to do this?
Nope, and it's better than using spacers.
Good work but a 5 mm spacer would of probably given you enough space besides doing all that work
Is there any negative effect? Does it damage the axel or the bearings to do this?
What is the rim design called?
Great intro song!
Is there any reason to align the holes instead of must making more plug welds?
I was just thinking aloud with that one, the original welds weren't aligned at all so it wasn't going to line back up by doing that anyways. Filling in the old holes and just making more plug welds is the way to go.
Hey Bud. I've reversed many a steel wheels back in my days or Racing. I wanted to add,Instead of using Lead FIXED weights, Use COPPER BB's !!!!. And put about 3/4 to 1 ounce of weight in each tire. Just dump them inside the tire when your mounting them onto the wheel !!. This will keep your tire balanced FOREVER !! And it helps compensate for the "Off" Balance from flipping and rewelding the centers !!. BTW, I use BB's instead of Fixed lead weights on EVERY Vehicles I own !!. Works GREAT on Big Truck Tires, And Big MUD Tires !!. You will hear the little "Tinks" from the BB's hitting the rim until you reach 5-10 MPH, After that the centrifugal forces of the tire spinning will balance out the BB"s inside the tire ! This makes a PERFECT BALANCE FOREVER !! Even with low pressure or flat spots on the tires !! Even if you get a big clump of mug stuck inside the wheel !! I've been doing this for over 20 year's and everyone in my family and circle of friends do it !!. No matter what, Your tire will NEVER be off balanced !!. Try it !! And with this method of balancing, You don't have to spend near as much time trying to get the centers "Perfect" inside the rims when reversing them. Makes life much easier !!. Have fun. Ohh,BTW, I'm looking for some CHEAP Steel wheels for a old Land Rover. 5x6.5 Lug Pattern. Prefer 15 inch wheels but will take 16's. Need STEEL Only !!. Will pay for shipping !!. Thx.
I've heard of that from off road guys, I haven't tried it yet but I think I will on the next set of tires I do. I'd still get the runout as close as possible just so they look good going down the road. But I'll definitely try copper BBs for balance, thanks!
Seems like more work than it's worth. How much time and money did you spend on this project?
Cost me a few feet of welding wire and a couple hours of my time. Why would it not be worth it, I'm building what I need out of what I have instead of spending $200 on some chinese aftermarket wheels off the internet like every other goof.
Cost wise it is cheaper to buy a white wagon wheel style rim for $30. But he is like my boss, he has me build shit out of scrap metal and it cost him 2-3x more than buying new. The only thing I can rationalize why is it gives him a sense of pride that his vehicles are "hand crafted". For me, it only improves my mindset and skills to create a finished project out of scrap metal, you know- just in case zombie outbreak and people have to go back to depression era.
Repurposing with craftsmanship is never ever not worth it, and judging everything in comparison to wastefully new chinesium because of two stinted hours is what made economy and society broke and disfunctional in the first place.
"Built not bought!" by principle is it what brings technology back under Your own control.
Well, I personally am more a "Made in Bavaria" or "Made in Germany" kinda guy, obviously, but You should nonetheless think and build american.
It is, by the way, a good thing for us Germans to impose Trump Tariffs, for our starved-to-death by trade surplusses suicidal domestic market is talked about now the first time in more than 20 years ....
I don't think they'll going to take over, but it is already now a quite different situation then 2015, with those rightwingers in all 16 state's parliaments.
It's a pity that they are such an absolutely total failure when it comes to macroeconomy and economical boundary conditions, thanks to their original founder Lucke and his bankster buddies... .
Nice work
Thanks!
I would have bolted the rim and tire on backwards
First, that doesn't necessarily change the offset. Second, not likely to stay tight due to the coining being on the other side of the lug hole. Third, without the coining for the lugnut to fit into, the wheel would constantly be shifting on the hub, loosening the lug nuts, then causing the stud to break.
Just the opinion of a smartass here,but I'd rather work a few hrs a week overtime for maybe a month,then bought brand new,machine round,machine balanced, wheels to fit needed application.Maybe save a few dollars shopping in a salvage yard. Just me though.
If you want to spend another month waiting for garbage from china then be my guest, this got me a better quality wheel on my trailer in an afternoon. As a fellow smartass I might point out that the title is "old school tech" not "how to blend with every other modern-age idiot"
Garbage from China??? Is that a harbor freight folding trailer? Like the ones made in CHINA???
I thought r
Dear Jr .. you have it wrong if you want the DEEP dish to face out your putting it back together wrong .. the deep dish faces OUT with the bolt flange ....You said Quote the shallow dish will face my frame the deep dish will face OUT .. That's isn't it bro..
The hell are you even saying "bro", I put it back together reversed so the deeper dish faced out. There are only two ways it can go together Jr.