I use a 12 year old Minolta meter - love it. Bought the X-Rite Pink card set. Used Sekonic selenium meters 40 years ago. Still own a Sekonic Studio Master....
Great video Joe, I have the L358 and color checker passport without the new Sekonic gray. I've been incorporating them into my work flow and this video helped me keep the discipline of using them both. Thanks Clark
I get hired to do high school reunion photo shoots. Thus I have to have my studio lights, dark grey backdrop at the event location. I have exactly the same light meter and x-rite that he has. Both are a must and if you know what your doing your photos will always come out great. I also have the Canon 5d Mk IV using a Canon 24-70mm F 2.8 lens. My camera settings are always F/10, Shutter speed at 1/125 and ISO 400. I also use the Expodisc once both my strobe lights are set to my camera settings to get my white balance ready.
Lightroom uses more space with the database Photoshop just keeps the image in the folders you saved them in. Also the colourcheker passport Keep you fingers of the colours, you have acid on your skin that will effect the colours..
Great video but i am confused, how do i know where the process to create an exposure profile to calibrate my 759dr to my camera begins and ends and where the process to create correct color balances begins and ends. Thanks
Very useful tutorial for me as I need to calibrate my meter. A question I have is where do I get the colorchecker passport with the gray card in the back are these passports all the same or do I need to buy a specific one and are they available at the camera stores? Once again I found this tutorial very useful so thanks.
I am a bit confused about the dome in/dome out. I did hear you say you cover it in another seminar but thought I would throw it out anyway. Earlier in this presentation you demonstrated placing the meter at different locations (above head, lower, behind, face and side of face) and you did it with the dome out. at time line around 35:00 you demonstrated using dome in pointing at different light sources. This is the confusing issue. Also you said that when you do the profile set up you shoot 3 photos at 3 stops separation. You used f/8 which would correlate when using a f/2.8. What about a f/4 lens. would you want to use f/11 at mid point? Would really like to get answer to Zack's question. Thanks, and by the way I am now a Joe Brady disciple.
Is f8 still a good starting point for a lens as wide as 1.4? Or should I just go off of whatever is the widest(1.4) and work my way to the middle and 3 stops over the middle f stop?
We recommend finding the optimal exposure for you cinema camera using the waveform monitors and an 18% grey card, and seeing what F-Stop you are getting and then setting exposure compensation on the light meter to match.
I created a camera profile for my Canon 5D Mark II using my Sekonic L-758DR. Will I be able to transfer that profile to a L-478DR? Or will I need to create a new camera profile using the L-478DR?
Joe Brady. Do you need to make a camera profile for every time of the day in sunlight such as, Morning, afternoon, evening, direct sun, shade? Also, do you need to do multiple camera profiles for each flash unit you have? Can you do this shooting in raw and convert to a DNG or does it have to be a, jpeg?
I have a question. Given that digital cameras give instant feedback and that they can be tethered to a full display, what are the advantages of having a light meter? What if you could begin with an approx in-camera reading to start you off, and then make your fine adjustments between the trio (ISO/Shutter/Iris) as you go to find the perfect exposure. Plus shooting RAW gives the additional post workflow flexibility for additional corrections? Maybe it depends on what one is shooting? In which case are there areas where much time can be saved? How about some areas where you have time, perhaps shooting a still life... if you have the time, and it looks right, it's right, right? I don't have a light meter yet, but I am questioning it's priority over other pieces of kit I have to budget for. Your thoughts and advice appreciated?
Are you setting your meter to default settings before you do this ? my meter was -1ev out to my cameras spot , i have corrected this they now agree , you don't mention the difference in readings you get out of the box and i don't mean as opposed to matrix or even ev reading ,but to the cameras spot on a large single color even lit background
Hello WebCreations88 If you own and L-858 there interfaces are almost identical and the same concpets in the video apply. Is there a specific part we can translate to your L-858 for you.
Can I only put "full stops" inside the DTS? What if my exposure is ISO 160, T:1/40, F:3.6? I still haven't found a way to do something like that. And what about the fact that sekonic and canon use different f-stops numbers? For example Canon uses f:13 while Sekonic uses f:12.7
Watching the video, I find I cannot use the Color Checker software, since I have 358. Can I still use the Color Checker in Lightroom, and Adobe Elements 12? If so how do I use it? Or, should I look eleswhere for a color alignment system.
Its generally not recommended as the Luts you use has such great effect on dynamic range. We suggest using a grey card and dialing exposure based on the manufactures desired IRE value and then simply putting in exposure compensation to get your meter to match.
Hello, ThanX for the video. Have Bought L-478DR and X-rite Colorchecker Passport. For my Still life shooting use. Having Canon 5D Mk-3 with 24-105 (f4.0). Have tried twice for building camera profile, but could't make it. sowing me wrong figures. could u please help me with this. or is there ready to use profile available. i really want to do it. please...... help me with this. ThanX
Bought the Color Checker Passport Video and it doesn’t look like the Color Checker I am seeing in You Tube Videos ie two panels of color samples rather than the one on mine??? Different for portrait shooting vs video???
Ive been trying to set my L-478DR as per this video but the spot meter is way off at least 3 stops over exposed can you please advise? Ive set up my meter without the spot meter but want to use it Landscape photography and its so far out I'm unable to use it.
Joe - can you show (or do you have) an episode that shows how to make the Lightroom presets that contain the White Balance & Xrite color correction already applied? I know you do this w/ your tethered PC so as they come in, they're applied - you said you'd show how, but have you ever? Thanks!
So far, this is the most detailed information I've gotten to calibrate my Sekonic 478DR, and to set up color profiles in LR. However, although I loaded the color checker software it does not show up in my exports in Lightroom. Anyone know how I can fix this?
I'm sure you've found the answer to this a long time ago. Once you have installed the CCPassport plugin, it will show up automatically when you do the following...1.select the image you want to create the profile for (the one with the passport in it) 2. right click and in the menu that pops up go to export, you should see the Color Checker Passport there. click that and it will generate the profile
I have a 478DR but don't have a color checker passport, how do you propose I create a calibration profile without it? No up to date detailed information exists for doing it even with the passport. This really frustrates me.
Hi, I've just bought this meter with the spot meter add-on, I have a x-rite color checker passport, but It Isn't the one with the sekonic grey card in, how can I get a correct ready for the middle gray? thanks
Hi, nice lesson, but kind a confused. There was talked about different lenses and ISO's. Would you advice for each lens a profile with different ISO settings and different lighting conditions i. e. sunny, cloudy, night (I'm from Iceland and we have pretty much night in winter for about 20 to 22 hours a day), tungsten and so forth?
+John Ayling The way i did mine was to take a reading of a grey card evenly lit , we know that should be bang center of the histogram at 128, then dial in compensation on the meter until my meter reading puts the spike bang center in the histogram. My Nikon is giving great results now , do it also with the 5 spot attachment . there could be a better way or perhaps this software will do it for you ,not sure but i aint spending £150 for a peace of card to find out what a rip off
RGB midpoint is actually about 118. Proof (besides clearly seeing it displayed in the video: Convert to Lab space and notice that 118 gray become 50% or in your words, right in the middle. What you've done is overexpose a bit. Not necessarily bad since it means you're ETTR for cleaner shadows. But overexposing nevertheless.
I have done a calib for one lense, and a calib for another lense on the same camera (Sony A7RII). I did the whole think twice. There is a 2 stop differences. There is definitely something wrong with the technique or the software. In one case the reading a obviously overexposed, and in the other one the reading in underexposed. One stop off in both case. What could explain this?
I had the same one stop problem. I just adjusted for it with ev in the meter. This doesn't solve the original problem, but it does give me correct exposures.
Answer is shockingly simple; f8 isn't the same on your lenses. The actual amount of light arriving at your sensor should be the same regardless of lens when set to the same f number but it isn't because each lens absorbs different amounts of light due to the different number of elements, lens construction & glass coating.
No they do not, you can do 2 things, either take the trigger of camera, measure and then set power and put the trigger back on the camera, which could wear out the hot shoe/trigger shoe prematurely. Or you could use 2 triggers and have one on camera and one in your pocket. when measuring the sekonic 478 will wait 90 sec for a flash, then just press the test fire button on the trigger. Logic dictates that if all settings are equal ( channel etc)that you can change the power then from any of the 2 triggers and it should be changed on all devices on the same channel. That is how i am planning on useing them, though can't guarantee it yet.
Refer to your camera manual...you go to White Balance in your menu, select custom, then it will generally set the WB off the last photo you took (which will be the one with the gray card). In your menu you sometimes have to tell the camera to use that photo. Each camera is a bit different. Make sure you are in spot metering mode and use manual focus and achieve perfect exposure when you take the shot. Ask for advice about this if you are not clear. Set a custom white balance in the same light that you will be shooting your images...
Interesting ... but, only really useful when you have 5 spare minutes to setup your shot. Don't know if it's really worth the investment as virtually every situation will be different. Imho.
The Sekonic ($130) Dynamic Chart seems like overkill (if not over charging IF you already spent over $400 for a niche product) if you only shoot video and you have a popular camera... Why not simply have profiles (like Adobe) for camera systems already installed or down loaded? Why make someone go thru this One Time process?? Unless each camera body from the - same - manufacturer has (slight) variations???
Please, in your videos speak a little more slowly to be able to follow better, I'm from Brazil and I really liked your class, it helped me a lot to do better jobs.
Hi Ary! Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching! Did you know that if you click the Gear icon on the bottom edge of the video, you can choose a slower (or faster) playback speed? Try 0.75 or 0.5 and see i that helps :-) Thanks again for commenting - we appreciate it.
I don't get the whole point of doing the calibration for the soft ware to TELL you the dynamic range of your sensor if you're just going to then ignore those values and type in some of your own generic values like 10 + 250. You could have a camera thats got 1 stop of range (hope not) and if you feel like "well I want more range" I'll just type it in, then thats not actually the range of the measurement you just did! So really that step just makes a lot of this process quite pointless. It was a great tutorial up to that point though.
it's the best course yet. Not to short not to long. It covers all I need. Thank you
I use a 12 year old Minolta meter - love it. Bought the X-Rite Pink card set. Used Sekonic selenium meters 40 years ago. Still own a Sekonic Studio Master....
Quote: "it's the best course yet. Not to short not to long. It covers all I need. Thank you"
Great video Joe, I have the L358 and color checker passport without the new Sekonic gray. I've been incorporating them into my work flow and this video helped me keep the discipline of using them both.
Thanks
Clark
This help me take good picture
I take gray card pic but its reman my camara white blance its make any problem
A great webinar Joe. You have a very pleasant presentation style.
Many thanks for the detailed webinar. Will setup few more profiles on my sekonic L-858D… auto correction suggested demonic!
I get hired to do high school reunion photo shoots. Thus I have to have my studio lights, dark grey backdrop at the event location. I have exactly the same light meter and x-rite that he has. Both are a must and if you know what your doing your photos will always come out great. I also have the Canon 5d Mk IV using a Canon 24-70mm F 2.8 lens. My camera settings are always F/10, Shutter speed at 1/125 and ISO 400. I also use the Expodisc once both my strobe lights are set to my camera settings to get my white balance ready.
This video is very informative Joe! Like your videos, you make it look easy!
Lightroom uses more space with the database Photoshop just keeps the image in the folders you saved them in. Also the colourcheker passport Keep you fingers of the colours, you have acid on your skin that will effect the colours..
Great video but i am confused, how do i know where the process to create an exposure profile to calibrate my 759dr to my camera begins and ends and where the process to create correct color balances begins and ends. Thanks
On a Summers August Day At Noon...... Love It Joe
What's the process if you use a ND filter? Take a shot of the ColorChecker Passport with the ND filter on?
Very useful tutorial for me as I need to calibrate my meter. A question I have is where do I get the colorchecker passport with the gray card in the back are these passports all the same or do I need to buy a specific one and are they available at the camera stores? Once again I found this tutorial very useful so thanks.
Fantastic! Two thumbs up to the presenter. Pro all the way!
I am a bit confused about the dome in/dome out. I did hear you say you cover it in another seminar but thought I would throw it out anyway. Earlier in this presentation you demonstrated placing the meter at different locations (above head, lower, behind, face and side of face) and you did it with the dome out. at time line around 35:00 you demonstrated using dome in pointing at different light sources. This is the confusing issue.
Also you said that when you do the profile set up you shoot 3 photos at 3 stops separation. You used f/8 which would correlate when using a f/2.8. What about a f/4 lens. would you want to use f/11 at mid point?
Would really like to get answer to Zack's question.
Thanks, and by the way I am now a Joe Brady disciple.
VERY GOOD . I HAVE A QUESTION CAN YOU DO THE CALIBRATION IF THE CAMERA MAX ITS F 11 APERTURE ? THANK YOU
Is f8 still a good starting point for a lens as wide as 1.4? Or should I just go off of whatever is the widest(1.4) and work my way to the middle and 3 stops over the middle f stop?
Can you calibrate the L-478D-U for a specific cinema camera and save it in the same way as you calibrate for still cameras.
We recommend finding the optimal exposure for you cinema camera using the waveform monitors and an 18% grey card, and seeing what F-Stop you are getting and then setting exposure compensation on the light meter to match.
I created a camera profile for my Canon 5D Mark II using my Sekonic L-758DR. Will I be able to transfer that profile to a L-478DR? Or will I need to create a new camera profile using the L-478DR?
I wanted to if the meter is set to time priority so it shows you what the f stop is going to be, what is the small number right after it for?
Joe Brady. Do you need to make a camera profile for every time of the day in sunlight such as, Morning, afternoon, evening, direct sun, shade? Also, do you need to do multiple camera profiles for each flash unit you have? Can you do this shooting in raw and convert to a DNG or does it have to be a, jpeg?
Do you need to calibrate the meter for when using flash too?
How to proper calibrate with a flash?
I have a question. Given that digital cameras give instant feedback and that they can be tethered to a full display, what are the advantages of having a light meter?
What if you could begin with an approx in-camera reading to start you off, and then make your fine adjustments between the trio (ISO/Shutter/Iris) as you go to find the perfect exposure. Plus shooting RAW gives the additional post workflow flexibility for additional corrections?
Maybe it depends on what one is shooting? In which case are there areas where much time can be saved?
How about some areas where you have time, perhaps shooting a still life... if you have the time, and it looks right, it's right, right?
I don't have a light meter yet, but I am questioning it's priority over other pieces of kit I have to budget for.
Your thoughts and advice appreciated?
Are you setting your meter to default settings before you do this ? my meter was -1ev out to my cameras spot , i have corrected this they now agree , you don't mention the difference in readings you get out of the box and i don't mean as opposed to matrix or even ev reading ,but to the cameras spot on a large single color even lit background
what kind of mount is he using to attach the colorchecker to the stand?
Would you redo/update the video but with the Sekonic L-858D. An excellent video (the present one)
Hello WebCreations88
If you own and L-858 there interfaces are almost identical and the same concpets in the video apply. Is there a specific part we can translate to your L-858 for you.
Can I only put "full stops" inside the DTS? What if my exposure is ISO 160, T:1/40, F:3.6? I still haven't found a way to do something like that. And what about the fact that sekonic and canon use different f-stops numbers? For example Canon uses f:13 while Sekonic uses f:12.7
Watching the video, I find I cannot use the Color Checker software, since I have 358. Can I still use the Color Checker in Lightroom, and Adobe Elements 12? If so how do I use it? Or, should I look eleswhere for a color alignment system.
Can I create a camera profile for a video camera? Inside the light meter?
Its generally not recommended as the Luts you use has such great effect on dynamic range. We suggest using a grey card and dialing exposure based on the manufactures desired IRE value and then simply putting in exposure compensation to get your meter to match.
Will Sekonic ever have a radio connection with Profoto
We have them to collaborate, and right now they don't have the bandwidth. We do not for-see having Profoto compatibility anytime in the near future.
Hello,
ThanX for the video.
Have Bought L-478DR and X-rite Colorchecker Passport. For my Still life shooting use. Having Canon 5D Mk-3 with 24-105 (f4.0). Have tried twice for building camera profile, but could't make it. sowing me wrong figures. could u please help me with this. or is there ready to use profile available. i really want to do it. please...... help me with this.
ThanX
Bought the Color Checker Passport Video and it doesn’t look like the Color Checker I am seeing in You Tube Videos ie two panels of color samples rather than the one on mine???
Different for portrait shooting vs video???
What bracket is being used to hold the Color checker ?
Can you suggest a Light meter good for portrait photography / Video photography?
Ive been trying to set my L-478DR as per this video but the spot meter is way off at least 3 stops over exposed can you please advise? Ive set up my meter without the spot meter but want to use it Landscape photography and its so far out I'm unable to use it.
Is it okay to use the same profile in two different meters (say 858 and 478) or do you need to create a profile per light meters/camera combination?
Joe - can you show (or do you have) an episode that shows how to make the Lightroom presets that contain the White Balance & Xrite color correction already applied? I know you do this w/ your tethered PC so as they come in, they're applied - you said you'd show how, but have you ever? Thanks!
Only for those who really into these type of meticulous measurements. For general use - just point and shoot like the old days. Jobs done!
thanks for those great advise !
The spot meter seams great, but at $125.00 I think I'll pass... isn't it a little to pricey for a peace of plastic ?
is it xrite color checker passport seconic with gray card ?
this is a really good video
Yep great vid, but way to long.
photofx
ya Joe always makes them too long
So far, this is the most detailed information I've gotten to calibrate my Sekonic 478DR, and to set up color profiles in LR. However, although I loaded the color checker software it does not show up in my exports in Lightroom. Anyone know how I can fix this?
I'm sure you've found the answer to this a long time ago. Once you have installed the CCPassport plugin, it will show up automatically when you do the following...1.select the image you want to create the profile for (the one with the passport in it) 2. right click and in the menu that pops up go to export, you should see the Color Checker Passport there. click that and it will generate the profile
Exactly what I needed to calibrate my L-478DR. Thanks again Joe!
Hi, is Seconik working with my Godox flash system? What is the best lighting meter for Godox products?
Yes, it works with any flash! Use a seckonic, light meters are not camera specific!
I have a 478DR but don't have a color checker passport, how do you propose I create a calibration profile without it? No up to date detailed information exists for doing it even with the passport. This really frustrates me.
How's visually a perfect exposure set by the seconic? An example will be beneficial to this video, otherwise we lost!
I have this meter and the passport, but I use 15 different cameras
Can this calibration be done for l-858d-u?
Great video. Watched it and based my decision on buying a L478DR ON IT!
Good Video,
How to use Colorchecker passport with Capture one pro,
do u have any tutorial for that, pls send link.
Hi, I've just bought this meter with the spot meter add-on, I have a x-rite color checker passport, but It Isn't the one with the sekonic grey card in, how can I get a correct ready for the middle gray? thanks
+michael crow You can purchase 18% gray cards separately.
Hi, nice lesson, but kind a confused. There was talked about different lenses and ISO's.
Would you advice for each lens a profile with different ISO settings and different lighting conditions i. e. sunny, cloudy, night (I'm from Iceland and we have pretty much night in winter for about 20 to 22 hours a day), tungsten and so forth?
My passport does not have a gray card, can I calibrate. Camera using the small square on the color palate?
Same here..any work around?
Thanks.
Jo
Love the vids could you do one on calibrating your light meter to your camera (Nikon) as one i use mine it comes out .7 to dark
+John Ayling The way i did mine was to take a reading of a grey card evenly lit , we know that should be bang center of the histogram at 128, then dial in compensation on the meter until my meter reading puts the spike bang center in the histogram. My Nikon is giving great results now , do it also with the 5 spot attachment . there could be a better way or perhaps this software will do it for you ,not sure but i aint spending £150 for a peace of card to find out what a rip off
RGB midpoint is actually about 118. Proof (besides clearly seeing it displayed in the video: Convert to Lab space and notice that 118 gray become 50% or in your words, right in the middle. What you've done is overexpose a bit. Not necessarily bad since it means you're ETTR for cleaner shadows. But overexposing nevertheless.
I have done a calib for one lense, and a calib for another lense on the same camera (Sony A7RII). I did the whole think twice. There is a 2 stop differences. There is definitely something wrong with the technique or the software. In one case the reading a obviously overexposed, and in the other one the reading in underexposed. One stop off in both case. What could explain this?
I had the same one stop problem. I just adjusted for it with ev in the meter. This doesn't solve the original problem, but it does give me correct exposures.
I did too.
Answer is shockingly simple; f8 isn't the same on your lenses. The actual amount of light arriving at your sensor should be the same regardless of lens when set to the same f number but it isn't because each lens absorbs different amounts of light due to the different number of elements, lens construction & glass coating.
Very informative, thank you.
Really useful info! Thanks :)
do sekonic product can fire godox units?
No they do not, you can do 2 things, either take the trigger of camera, measure and then set power and put the trigger back on the camera, which could wear out the hot shoe/trigger shoe prematurely. Or you could use 2 triggers and have one on camera and one in your pocket. when measuring the sekonic 478 will wait 90 sec for a flash, then just press the test fire button on the trigger. Logic dictates that if all settings are equal ( channel etc)that you can change the power then from any of the 2 triggers and it should be changed on all devices on the same channel. That is how i am planning on useing them, though can't guarantee it yet.
THANKS
You talk of custom white balance what is the value of K?
Kathy McElhaney found my answer thank you!
Can I buy an extra bag for my spot meter? Forget about the light meter I just need that sweet bag. Okay seriously Joe, great video!
The colour chart would on the landscapes
Umm.... how do you take a custom white balance?
Refer to your camera manual...you go to White Balance in your menu, select custom, then it will generally set the WB off the last photo you took (which will be the one with the gray card). In your menu you sometimes have to tell the camera to use that photo. Each camera is a bit different. Make sure you are in spot metering mode and use manual focus and achieve perfect exposure when you take the shot. Ask for advice about this if you are not clear. Set a custom white balance in the same light that you will be shooting your images...
why u use an incident meter with a grey card? grey card is supposed to work with reflective meter such as ur camera meter
Interesting ... but, only really useful when you have 5 spare minutes to setup your shot. Don't know if it's really worth the investment as virtually every situation will be different. Imho.
The Sekonic ($130) Dynamic Chart seems like overkill (if not over charging IF you already spent over $400 for a niche product) if you only shoot video and you have a popular camera...
Why not simply have profiles (like Adobe) for camera systems already installed or down loaded? Why make someone go thru this One Time process?? Unless each camera body from the - same - manufacturer has (slight) variations???
Please, in your videos speak a little more slowly to be able to follow better, I'm from Brazil and I really liked your class, it helped me a lot to do better jobs.
Hi Ary! Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching! Did you know that if you click the Gear icon on the bottom edge of the video, you can choose a slower (or faster) playback speed? Try 0.75 or 0.5 and see i that helps :-) Thanks again for commenting - we appreciate it.
It is insane...I will use my IPhone X and wait for a DSLR with AI.
I don't get the whole point of doing the calibration for the soft ware to TELL you the dynamic range of your sensor if you're just going to then ignore those values and type in some of your own generic values like 10 + 250. You could have a camera thats got 1 stop of range (hope not) and if you feel like "well I want more range" I'll just type it in, then thats not actually the range of the measurement you just did! So really that step just makes a lot of this process quite pointless. It was a great tutorial up to that point though.
HA! If DNG ends up going away hey says.