Brook, I have a large tub of chains, tiedowns, bungees, come alongs and ratchets. I like the ratchet that you have that goes around the tire. It is an approved method for hauling cars on trailers etc and you know those wheels arent going any where. Im glad Im glad not the only one! Best
Brook, maybe see about adding D-rings to the trailer for extra tie down points. I have several different types of tie downs points we have added to our trailer giving it more versatility
Your front D-rings are best. Put a plank or plywood down for your bucket to protect your bed. If you can throw straps around the rear axle would be best at the rear. A strap over the bucket for extra measures. You can never have too many tie downs. Is the implement bounces, a strap there too. DOT won't become interested with your load.
I like the 4 strap/tie rule. My general rule with tying cargo down is at least 2 straps on any item, or direction of pull. Thus, if one strap is lost, I don't lose the load. Front to rear pull and visa-versa is good. So a car should have at least 4 straps. I have seen people with tire straps, and they seem to be quick and effective. Many attach both in front of the tires and behind the tires, so no slipping over the top. I tend to like to throw a strap or chain around the axles, although finding a clear way to strap around an axle can be problematic. Your tractor rear axles won't break or bend. Cars have suspension, so tying below the suspension is always best. Tractors don't really have suspension in the same manner so it doesn't matter as much. I don't like tying onto those lower links. They aren't designed for that direction of force, and are really only designed to restrict side to side movement of the 3 point. The more tie downs the better for a trailer. Perhaps add some weld-ons?
The rigging hardware you added under the front corners of the tractor frame, are not D-rings. They are Anchor Shackles with screw pins. The 1/2" size is rated for 2 ton WLL (working load Limit.) Your rigging onto the stabilizing/anti-sway rods on the lift arms of your 3 point hitch is a bad idea. Use axle straps to go over the rear axle, so it won't get chewed up, and then anchor shackles to attach the axle straps to a chain or heavy rated cargo strap. Stake pocket D-rings is one way to attach rigging to your trailer. Another way would be to take a loop of chain, run it thru the stake pocket and then fasten the ends of the loop together with a twin clevis chain joining link of the appropriate size. NOW, you can fasten your grab hook from your rigging chains onto this loop of chain.
A trooper from Indiana said that if you run the chains through to the other side, you get 100% holding strength. whereas If you just tie it down on each side, you only get half of the holding strength for that tiedown
In my state, on commercials equipment, each corner must be independently tied down. Additionally, front loader and rear equipment must be independently tied down. Recently learned this. So, up to 6 tie downs required.
So if you go by the DOT. You are required to have a separate trie down for each corner of the tractor then also a tie down for each corner of the loader on the front and another set for the implement on the back on of the tractor. So really you need 12 tie downs and none can use the same anchor points. Oh and each tie down needs to be able to support the wieght of the load.
I can hear the tie rods crying frome here. I wonder How much force is pulling the front wheels in different directions? What happens if the ties go flat while being towed of the tie rods pop from the force being pulled on them? I don't mean to be critical but that don't seem like a good idea.
Why would you put your hooks upside down if the chain or strep gets loose the hook is going to fall out that right there gives me a clue that maybe this video is not exactly accurate
You didn't watch the entire video. I commented about that. When I bought the trailer, I didn't realize they put the walk deck so close you can't get the hook through the bottom of the stake pocket.
Brook, I have a large tub of chains, tiedowns, bungees, come alongs and ratchets. I like the ratchet that you have that goes around the tire. It is an approved method for hauling cars on trailers etc and you know those wheels arent going any where. Im glad Im glad not the only one! Best
Yes. I like them.
Brook, maybe see about adding D-rings to the trailer for extra tie down points. I have several different types of tie downs points we have added to our trailer giving it more versatility
Your front D-rings are best. Put a plank or plywood down for your bucket to protect your bed. If you can throw straps around the rear axle would be best at the rear. A strap over the bucket for extra measures. You can never have too many tie downs. Is the implement bounces, a strap there too. DOT won't become interested with your load.
Yes. I found axle straps are quick and easy. ...and safe.
I like the 4 strap/tie rule. My general rule with tying cargo down is at least 2 straps on any item, or direction of pull. Thus, if one strap is lost, I don't lose the load. Front to rear pull and visa-versa is good. So a car should have at least 4 straps.
I have seen people with tire straps, and they seem to be quick and effective. Many attach both in front of the tires and behind the tires, so no slipping over the top.
I tend to like to throw a strap or chain around the axles, although finding a clear way to strap around an axle can be problematic. Your tractor rear axles won't break or bend.
Cars have suspension, so tying below the suspension is always best. Tractors don't really have suspension in the same manner so it doesn't matter as much.
I don't like tying onto those lower links. They aren't designed for that direction of force, and are really only designed to restrict side to side movement of the 3 point.
The more tie downs the better for a trailer. Perhaps add some weld-ons?
Mytee makes stake pocket d rings. I highly recommend them
Yes. I have learned that. Thanks for the tip.
The rigging hardware you added under the front corners of the tractor frame, are not D-rings. They are Anchor Shackles with screw pins. The 1/2" size is rated for 2 ton WLL (working load Limit.)
Your rigging onto the stabilizing/anti-sway rods on the lift arms of your 3 point hitch is a bad idea. Use axle straps to go over the rear axle, so it won't get chewed up, and then anchor shackles to attach the axle straps to a chain or heavy rated cargo strap.
Stake pocket D-rings is one way to attach rigging to your trailer. Another way would be to take a loop of chain, run it thru the stake pocket and then fasten the ends of the loop together with a twin clevis chain joining link of the appropriate size. NOW, you can fasten your grab hook from your rigging chains onto this loop of chain.
A trooper from Indiana said that if you run the chains through to the other side, you get 100% holding strength. whereas If you just tie it down on each side, you only get half of the holding strength for that tiedown
In my state, on commercials equipment, each corner must be independently tied down. Additionally, front loader and rear equipment must be independently tied down. Recently learned this. So, up to 6 tie downs required.
So if you go by the DOT. You are required to have a separate trie down for each corner of the tractor then also a tie down for each corner of the loader on the front and another set for the implement on the back on of the tractor. So really you need 12 tie downs and none can use the same anchor points. Oh and each tie down needs to be able to support the wieght of the load.
CT2025 August '23 searchin for tips....thanks
I can hear the tie rods crying frome here. I wonder How much force is pulling the front wheels in different directions? What happens if the ties go flat while being towed of the tie rods pop from the force being pulled on them? I don't mean to be critical but that don't seem like a good idea.
Why would you put your hooks upside down if the chain or strep gets loose the hook is going to fall out that right there gives me a clue that maybe this video is not exactly accurate
You didn't watch the entire video. I commented about that. When I bought the trailer, I didn't realize they put the walk deck so close you can't get the hook through the bottom of the stake pocket.