I Love the old Multi Band and Shortwave Radios...so Cool to see the Dial Glass light Up....I Collect Radio Dial Glass....It is Really Cool To Look at Them....I took my Multi Band Radios Everywhere...Real Fun Stuff!!!
Really enjoy your videos. In my ham station I run many "vintage" receivers and transmitters. My signal generator is a 1940 Simpson. Leather strap handle still good, as yours is. 73 de Mike, W4MVM
I’m catching up on your older videos. I have an S-120 that needs to be restored and this video is just what I needed to get motivated to do it. I loved your comment about “bumblebee capacitors being some of the worst capacitors that were ever made.” I totally agree with you on that!
I am glad you are tackling this job since I have a Hallicrafters S-120 myself. Mine is all original, mint, no audio hum, sensitive and works well on all bands. I run it, and all my other boat anchors a 1/2 hour every other week or so to keep them working properly. So far, so good. My Hallicrafters S-38E is a better performer and has better audio, however. Can't wait until part 2.
That's pretty scary! The station engineer said it just needed all new tubes, Huh? Wonder what else in that station he mis-diagnosed! Good thing your friend gave it to you to fix (someone who KNOWS what they are doing with it!)
I have one of those in my collection and it works great. Even though its not really top of the line it still works well for what it is. I will pretty much have to do what you have done to that one as i do hear some hum in my S-120. Thanks for sharing your work on these always fun to watch.
What a coincidence, I have a Hallicrafters SW-500 that I just decided to take out and play with this week, same set, different cabinet colour. My set has tubular capacitors in ceramic shells, oddly enough they are still good so I think they may have used plastic film. However the set does not have enough gain and has a hum problem that need further investigation it may be a wiring problem or a bad couplate, the filter caps have already been changed. I also need to order in some resistors as half the ones in the set have drifted off in value, ones that I do not have in stock. Those Cornell Dubilier "Black Cats" may in fact have plastic film inside as well if it is 1965 vintage, or paper backed plastic film. The bumblebees must have been old stock they were using up since they tested bad at low voltage. I left the old selenium in place, it was the finned type, but I bypassed it with a silicon diode and used one of teh lugs as a tie point, The B+ voltage is supposed to be 110 VDC on the plate and screen of the power output tube, and the plate of the 12BE6 and 12BA6, I think it's 67 VDC on the plate of the 12AV6.
So folks put an additional filter cap in-between the old resistor in the filter and the new one. That seems to make the substitution of the diode just that much more difficult as the voltage tends to go higher than just using the additional resistor. The claim,is of course, less ripple, but as you have shown, there is not enough ripple to matter.
THis Info was extremely help full Thank You Kind Sir Thank You for a very awesome informative video. it really helps me replace the selenium rectifier.
There's been a Hallicrafters S120 sitting at the local Antique Mall here for $35 for several months. I skipped on it because I realize it would be an under performer. Obviously that radio station engineer didn't want to bother to look at the set at all. He just brushed your friend off it seems. That's really to bad. Nice job so far bringing this puppy back for your friend. I'm sure he is really going to appreciate your work. Tom
I think that they have the potential to be fairly decent for what they are, certainly better then the average 5 tube AC/DC. I don't think I would pay $35 for one as they are a little too new, 1962-66 vintage, but maybe up to $20 is it was in decent cosmetic shape and clean.
I found a manual for mine on eBay for $10.00. :) Two of the bands work and two are out, most likely filtering or alignment. The book does have a diagram and alignment data. :):) I did manage to break the glass though. :(:(
I'm in the process of recapping an S 120 I've had for some time.Mine,however,has the six pin wafer capacitor like an S 38D and has a silicon diode rather than a selenium rectifier.I've got several Hallicrafters sets that need to be recapped.All have essentially that same chassis.Any pointers would be appreciated like where I can solder the capacitor grounds for B-.Thanks again.
Nice set, but I don't understand why your friend said it didn't work--aside from some filter hum and dirty contacts, it seemed to work pretty well to me. And I knew all of those tubes weren't bad, and I'm sure you did too--no doubt someone told him because the tubes were old, they were probably "worn out".
The only time I've ever seen all of the tubes in a radio being bad was on one or two farm battery radios where some goofball applied B+ voltage to the filament connections. Usually, when someone says, "all tubes are bad and I can't get them", they really mean, "I don't want to work on it." The fact is that the tubes used in this radio were used in 90% of AA5's from the late '40's until the end of the tube radio. I tested all the tubes out of this radio and they all test very strong. The "black cat" capacitors tested a little leaky at rated working voltage. The two bumblebees tested very leaky at low voltage. I had the radio connected to about 15 ft. of outside antenna and I figure, at best, it was previously being used with the 6 inch piece of wire that was attached to the antenna terminals. Next, I'm going to touch up the alignment and I'm sending it home.
I always called those bumblebees "Explodomatics" for all of the plastic shrapnel I've seen from them lol Yep, an alignment should get it 100%. I've always been amazed at the performance Hallicrafters could squeeze out of a 4 or 5 tube ac/dc set.
I just re-capped a S120. The major hum I had is gone but I still have a slight hum more like what you hear in audio equipment when a shield on a cable is broken. I also have on band 4 several internal RF signals showing up on the dial. I think they are either harmonics or self oscillating. The other issue I am fighting with is the receiver has microphonics. I can tap the chassic and hear it at the speaker. Anyone else have any of these problems? Thanks, Ken
+Ken are there any S120 repair experts out there? I would like to solve my microphonics on band D as well as an area on band D that gives me a static/scratchy sound. Thanks, Ken
I used a 100Ω 10W with the 1N4007 to get the appropriate voltage. A 5W would be fine. Here is the schematic manual, (left file); and pictures on the (right file) Beware: this is 1.2GB OneDrive: 1drv.ms/1kfnWgW
I'm surprised that for a Hallicrafters this is so cheaply made.Only four tubes, I would think they would have an additional 12BA6 or 12AU6 as an RF amplifier.
The S-120 was the replacement model for the S-38 series, I think that the S-38E was the last of those. It never was never intended to be any more then an entry level set. To add an RF amp properly they would have had to add an RF coil for each band, an extra wafer in the band switch, and a three gang tunic condenser, plus all the extras like trimmer caps and resistors. One thing that could have been done would be to add an extra If amplifier stage and a third IF can, that would have been cheaper and less complex, some National models did that.
I Love the old Multi Band and Shortwave Radios...so Cool to see the Dial Glass light Up....I Collect Radio Dial Glass....It is Really Cool To Look at Them....I took my Multi Band Radios Everywhere...Real Fun Stuff!!!
Really enjoy your videos. In my ham station I run many "vintage" receivers and transmitters. My signal generator is a 1940 Simpson. Leather strap handle still good, as yours is.
73 de Mike, W4MVM
I’m catching up on your older videos. I have an S-120 that needs to be restored and this video is just what I needed to get motivated to do it.
I loved your comment about “bumblebee capacitors being some of the worst capacitors that were ever made.” I totally agree with you on that!
I am glad you are tackling this job since I have a Hallicrafters S-120 myself. Mine is all original, mint, no audio hum, sensitive and works well on all bands. I run it, and all my other boat anchors a 1/2 hour every other week or so to keep them working properly. So far, so good. My Hallicrafters S-38E is a better performer and has better audio, however. Can't wait until part 2.
That's pretty scary! The station engineer said it just needed all new tubes, Huh? Wonder what else in that station he mis-diagnosed! Good thing your friend gave it to you to fix (someone who KNOWS what they are doing with it!)
Thanks for putting up these two videos. I just started work on my own S-120 restoration.
I have one of those in my collection and it works great. Even though its not really top of the line it still works well for what it is. I will pretty much have to do what you have done to that one as i do hear some hum in my S-120. Thanks for sharing your work on these always fun to watch.
What a coincidence, I have a Hallicrafters SW-500 that I just decided to take out and play with this week, same set, different cabinet colour. My set has tubular capacitors in ceramic shells, oddly enough they are still good so I think they may have used plastic film. However the set does not have enough gain and has a hum problem that need further investigation it may be a wiring problem or a bad couplate, the filter caps have already been changed. I also need to order in some resistors as half the ones in the set have drifted off in value, ones that I do not have in stock.
Those Cornell Dubilier "Black Cats" may in fact have plastic film inside as well if it is 1965 vintage, or paper backed plastic film. The bumblebees must have been old stock they were using up since they tested bad at low voltage.
I left the old selenium in place, it was the finned type, but I bypassed it with a silicon diode and used one of teh lugs as a tie point, The B+ voltage is supposed to be 110 VDC on the plate and screen of the power output tube, and the plate of the 12BE6 and 12BA6, I think it's 67 VDC on the plate of the 12AV6.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Good call on upping the voltage for those caps to 200
So folks put an additional filter cap in-between the old resistor in the filter and the new one. That seems to make the substitution of the diode just that much more difficult as the voltage tends to go higher than just using the additional resistor. The claim,is of course, less ripple, but as you have shown, there is not enough ripple to matter.
THis Info was extremely help full Thank You Kind Sir Thank You for a very awesome informative video. it really helps me replace the selenium rectifier.
Great video, thanks for sharing the knowledge,regards,Sorin
There's been a Hallicrafters S120 sitting at the local Antique Mall here for $35 for several months. I skipped on it because I realize it would be an under performer.
Obviously that radio station engineer didn't want to bother to look at the set at all. He just brushed your friend off it seems. That's really to bad.
Nice job so far bringing this puppy back for your friend. I'm sure he is really going to appreciate your work.
Tom
I think that they have the potential to be fairly decent for what they are, certainly better then the average 5 tube AC/DC. I don't think I would pay $35 for one as they are a little too new, 1962-66 vintage, but maybe up to $20 is it was in decent cosmetic shape and clean.
Thank You Buddy , I have the same exact radio and the switch is wired wrong on mine saving it for winter or fall which ever comes first.
It has those slug tuned IF transformers that are prone to silver mica disease
Radio shack has a radio that looks like your radio a DX160
Almost the same tube compliment as an All-American five
Nice work! Great info. on rectifier replacement.Thank You!
What will you suggest/configure for a replacement shortwave antenna, if any?
Very informative. Thanks.
I found a manual for mine on eBay for $10.00. :)
Two of the bands work and two are out, most likely filtering or alignment.
The book does have a diagram and alignment data. :):)
I did manage to break the glass though. :(:(
I'm in the process of recapping an S 120 I've had for some time.Mine,however,has the six pin wafer capacitor like an S 38D and has a silicon diode rather than a selenium rectifier.I've got several Hallicrafters sets that need to be recapped.All have essentially that same chassis.Any pointers would be appreciated like where I can solder the capacitor grounds for B-.Thanks again.
Nice set, but I don't understand why your friend said it didn't work--aside from some filter hum and dirty contacts, it seemed to work pretty well to me. And I knew all of those tubes weren't bad, and I'm sure you did too--no doubt someone told him because the tubes were old, they were probably "worn out".
The only time I've ever seen all of the tubes in a radio being bad was on one or two farm battery radios where some goofball applied B+ voltage to the filament connections. Usually, when someone says, "all tubes are bad and I can't get them", they really mean, "I don't want to work on it." The fact is that the tubes used in this radio were used in 90% of AA5's from the late '40's until the end of the tube radio. I tested all the tubes out of this radio and they all test very strong. The "black cat" capacitors tested a little leaky at rated working voltage. The two bumblebees tested very leaky at low voltage. I had the radio connected to about 15 ft. of outside antenna and I figure, at best, it was previously being used with the 6 inch piece of wire that was attached to the antenna terminals. Next, I'm going to touch up the alignment and I'm sending it home.
I always called those bumblebees "Explodomatics" for all of the plastic shrapnel I've seen from them lol Yep, an alignment should get it 100%. I've always been amazed at the performance Hallicrafters could squeeze out of a 4 or 5 tube ac/dc set.
anybody remember what is the bulb# and is there a led that will fit?
Here's where you can get a schematic for the Hallicrafter S-120 bama.edebris.com/manuals/hallicra/s120/
I just re-capped a S120. The major hum I had is gone but I still have a slight hum more like what you hear in audio
equipment when a shield on a cable is broken. I also have on band 4 several internal RF signals showing up on the dial.
I think they are either harmonics or self oscillating.
The other issue I am fighting with is the receiver has microphonics. I can tap the chassic and hear it at the speaker.
Anyone else have any of these problems? Thanks, Ken
+Ken are there any S120 repair experts out there? I would like to solve my microphonics on band D
as well as an area on band D that gives me a static/scratchy sound.
Thanks, Ken
I used a 100Ω 10W with the 1N4007 to get the appropriate voltage. A 5W would be fine.
Here is the schematic manual, (left file); and pictures on the (right file) Beware: this is 1.2GB
OneDrive: 1drv.ms/1kfnWgW
I'm surprised that for a Hallicrafters this is so cheaply made.Only four tubes, I would think they would have an additional 12BA6 or 12AU6 as an RF amplifier.
The S-120 was the replacement model for the S-38 series, I think that the S-38E was the last of those. It never was never intended to be any more then an entry level set. To add an RF amp properly they would have had to add an RF coil for each band, an extra wafer in the band switch, and a three gang tunic condenser, plus all the extras like trimmer caps and resistors. One thing that could have been done would be to add an extra If amplifier stage and a third IF can, that would have been cheaper and less complex, some National models did that.
my eyes are bleeding, no pcb's