Sorry for the low quality video footage. Unfortunately RUclips only let's me download older video's in 720P quality. Also, in the top right of this video there will be a playlist of video's that are more in dept on the topics mentioned in this video.
I defintely forgot a couple of tips but then again this video mostly contains tips that are not commonly known. But you gave me a great idea for part 2 :P
bones brew is the best fuel in the U.S at this time by far nice video Mike as always man great tips for newbies and people that are familiar with nitro engines hope a new person will use these tips to get the best out of the nitro side of the hobby the best side I will add
Commercial fuel was a game changer for Nitro RC. To get consistent mixes and small volume availability made life a lot easier. You did forget to mention another wear point that relates to the con rod and that's the Crank pin. This is the real cutoff point for engine replacement. Look for taper , out of round and wear. You will need to do this with a micrometer.
The con rod will always hit the backplate because the backplate is actually what keeps the rod on the crankshaft. It is always a good idea though to pull the crankshaft so the crank pin itself doesn’t rub on the backplate
About the rod... 1) there is always a tiny bit of play because oil has to come in and needs to create a film layer. It is always advisable to check the new engine to see the play so you have an indication. 2) Most rods indeed snaps on something you normally can not see. Maybe hard to understand but the rod does flex due the forces on it. The microscopic small amount of bending on the same spot of the rod makes the material tired and wears of the molecule structure loosing its strength. It is like a small sheet of aluminum, bend it a few times up and down on a same spot and you will notice it will bend easier every next time and then suddenly snaps. That is why you should never trust a visual inspection and thinks all is OK after 10 liter of use, it is the cost of a rod against the costs of a whole restoration or just simple a new engine. And another thing that helps the lifespan of any new engine is tear it apart, flush it out and with a dremel smoothen the inside edges of the ports of the sleeve so no sharp chrome edge is there to snap off or directly scratch the piston.
Always interesting to read you! I think that the connecting rod must be replaced more often if you bash since we are often at full throttle for long periods, on the track, at least offroad track, the conrod must last longer. But it is difficult to determine a precise replacement frequency ...
@@TastyBRC Better be safe than sorry.... If you calculate the G-forces that are made on the piston and rod over an half stroke (0 to max speed) you will come to an insane number, calculating that with the weight it will go up to 100+ kg of force. Then calculate how many times the rod has to deal with that within 10 liter of use. 4x in one round x average 20.00rpm x 500 minutes, make 40.000.000 flex movements.
@@TastyBRC The calculation about G-forces I once did The stroke of current .21 engines is about 17mm, 1 round is 53.4mm in distance. Lets say @46.000 rpm is 766rps. In 1 second it is running 766 x 0.0534 = 41 meter/sec which is 143km/u (no sonic sound) I can remember a limit for lubrication has a magic number of 35m/s... V=a x t , a = V/t t is 1 round /4 (the moment from 0 to max speed) so that is 1/766 and again /4 = 0.326msec a = 41/0.000326 = 125624 m/s^2 10m/s^2 = 1G so you are talking about 12562.4G I know a piston+rod is about 7.5 gram so it will create 94kg force @46.000rpm
From my experience the best way to avoid opening up the engine and having it last years is use quality LOW nitro percentage. 15-20%. The lower the nitro ,the less power and the less strain in engine. I’ve ran 15% in cheap stock engines and have literally lasted me years and still going. I’ve also used 30% nitro and although it gives the engine more power , it also makes the engine work harder thus less engine life. It will last 2-3 gallons before a piston freezes , rod breaks or bearing starts leaving. (BTW always buy good quality fuel )
Great topic! And thanks some of us that are newer to the rc/nitro scene can learn a lot, and benefit from the experience you have gained. Also engines, parts etc are bloody expensive! So any help to make them last longer, perform to there potential or better helps. Aslo the live streams (i watch my first one😂) are great as we can ask questions! 👍 And glad to hear your over the cold bro!
Very good videos and I know what you mean about how to brake an engine in and start any engine's without air filters I always clean and re oil my 2 stage race filter iam a qualified mechanic so also after run oil I used to use bryron 25 % race fuel but I can only get optimix 25% race fuel but the oil is called klotz I've not tried it yet good videos
With my very first Nitro a RC10GT I shattered the connecting rod after break in. I replaced it with a forged connecting rod, and that OS ran for another 12gallons
Cheers bro 😎 very good tips I have the lrp spc 4 32 in my losi truggy very good motor but I will look into getting a new conrod thanks Tony blue mountains Australia 🇦🇺 cheers
@@NitroMike did you do that after break in ? Or just after how many Lt cheers mate mine is not modified but still kicks ass 👍 I’m looking to get another buggy.21 motor an good ones you know an trust looking at the Argus.21 5+2p (turbo) it’s what is hot at the moment in Australia 🇦🇺 cheers mate Tony
You say lrp is a low quality engine but you have run 9 gallons through it tells me your wrong and its the best on the market. i love mine seems to best ive ever had.
Sorry for the low quality video footage. Unfortunately RUclips only let's me download older video's in 720P quality. Also, in the top right of this video there will be a playlist of video's that are more in dept on the topics mentioned in this video.
Great tips 👍🇦🇺 Another good tip is to put piston at the lowest part of the engine while cooling down not to lose the pinch .
I defintely forgot a couple of tips but then again this video mostly contains tips that are not commonly known. But you gave me a great idea for part 2 :P
That is a very good tip I think i actually gained more compression from a pretty worn engine by setting the piston to bdc after every run.👍
bones brew is the best fuel in the U.S at this time by far nice video Mike as always man great tips for newbies and people that are familiar with nitro engines hope a new person will use these tips to get the best out of the nitro side of the hobby the best side I will add
Commercial fuel was a game changer for Nitro RC. To get consistent mixes and small volume availability made life a lot easier. You did forget to mention another wear point that relates to the con rod and that's the Crank pin. This is the real cutoff point for engine replacement. Look for taper , out of round and wear. You will need to do this with a micrometer.
The con rod will always hit the backplate because the backplate is actually what keeps the rod on the crankshaft. It is always a good idea though to pull the crankshaft so the crank pin itself doesn’t rub on the backplate
Thank you for all the information 🔥👍💯
You miss the last part Mike, after used the car need to clean and add 3 in oil in the engine
Nice video Mike. I learned a lot.
Great knowledge well presented. Thanks bru.
About the rod...
1) there is always a tiny bit of play because oil has to come in and needs to create a film layer. It is always advisable to check the new engine to see the play so you have an indication.
2) Most rods indeed snaps on something you normally can not see. Maybe hard to understand but the rod does flex due the forces on it. The microscopic small amount of bending on the same spot of the rod makes the material tired and wears of the molecule structure loosing its strength. It is like a small sheet of aluminum, bend it a few times up and down on a same spot and you will notice it will bend easier every next time and then suddenly snaps. That is why you should never trust a visual inspection and thinks all is OK after 10 liter of use, it is the cost of a rod against the costs of a whole restoration or just simple a new engine.
And another thing that helps the lifespan of any new engine is tear it apart, flush it out and with a dremel smoothen the inside edges of the ports of the sleeve so no sharp chrome edge is there to snap off or directly scratch the piston.
Always interesting to read you! I think that the connecting rod must be replaced more often if you bash since we are often at full throttle for long periods, on the track, at least offroad track, the conrod must last longer. But it is difficult to determine a precise replacement frequency ...
@@TastyBRC Better be safe than sorry.... If you calculate the G-forces that are made on the piston and rod over an half stroke (0 to max speed) you will come to an insane number, calculating that with the weight it will go up to 100+ kg of force. Then calculate how many times the rod has to deal with that within 10 liter of use. 4x in one round x average 20.00rpm x 500 minutes, make 40.000.000 flex movements.
@@roeloftooms crazy numbers 😨 and they get even crazier with the big pistons of our .28 to .32 engines
@@TastyBRC The calculation about G-forces I once did
The stroke of current .21 engines is about 17mm, 1 round is 53.4mm in distance.
Lets say @46.000 rpm is 766rps. In 1 second it is running 766 x 0.0534 = 41 meter/sec which is 143km/u (no sonic sound)
I can remember a limit for lubrication has a magic number of 35m/s...
V=a x t , a = V/t
t is 1 round /4 (the moment from 0 to max speed) so that is 1/766 and again /4 = 0.326msec
a = 41/0.000326 = 125624 m/s^2
10m/s^2 = 1G so you are talking about 12562.4G
I know a piston+rod is about 7.5 gram so it will create 94kg force @46.000rpm
Nice video will help me alot
From my experience the best way to avoid opening up the engine and having it last years is use quality LOW nitro percentage. 15-20%.
The lower the nitro ,the less power and the less strain in engine.
I’ve ran 15% in cheap stock engines and have literally lasted me years and still going.
I’ve also used 30% nitro and although it gives the engine more power , it also makes the engine work harder thus less engine life. It will last 2-3 gallons before a piston freezes , rod breaks or bearing starts leaving.
(BTW always buy good quality fuel )
Great topic! And thanks some of us that are newer to the rc/nitro scene can learn a lot, and benefit from the experience you have gained. Also engines, parts etc are bloody expensive! So any help to make them last longer, perform to there potential or better helps. Aslo the live streams (i watch my first one😂) are great as we can ask questions! 👍 And glad to hear your over the cold bro!
I may do a livestream on Monday stay tuned!
front bearing isnt air tight, so how do you tell if the front bearing needs replacement?
Good video although what about fuel filters? Are they necessary? I've seen some deposits in the fuel tank at times.
Hi, l used 14% oil for my break in. My friends say 9% oil is best for making more power and it will run cooler, any thoughts ?
Good tips
i really your videos keep doing more videos including how to set needles low s and h speed 🙏👏👋
Love your videos,
Very well made video 👍
Hey I have a picco ofna .26 Is it a good engine? Or is it rare cause I can’t find much parts for it?
Very good videos and I know what you mean about how to brake an engine in and start any engine's without air filters I always clean and re oil my 2 stage race filter iam a qualified mechanic so also after run oil I used to use bryron 25 % race fuel but I can only get optimix 25% race fuel but the oil is called klotz I've not tried it yet good videos
With my very first Nitro a RC10GT I shattered the connecting rod after break in. I replaced it with a forged connecting rod, and that OS ran for another 12gallons
Cheers bro 😎 very good tips I have the lrp spc 4 32 in my losi truggy very good motor but I will look into getting a new conrod thanks Tony blue mountains Australia 🇦🇺 cheers
I replaced only one rod in my LRP 32x so far
@@NitroMike did you do that after break in ? Or just after how many Lt cheers mate mine is not modified but still kicks ass 👍 I’m looking to get another buggy.21 motor an good ones you know an trust looking at the Argus.21 5+2p (turbo) it’s what is hot at the moment in Australia 🇦🇺 cheers mate Tony
@@tonysands2837 I replaced the rod after the first 2 gallons
Hi nitro mike i am using the 16% fuel ready to run optimix is it good enough it has a 15% oil content is that good or bad
15% is way too much oil! You want to run no more oil than 12%
I use the bottajel way to break in my nitros
Wish you would keep it metric in future vids👍
You say lrp is a low quality engine but you have run 9 gallons through it tells me your wrong and its the best on the market. i love mine seems to best ive ever had.
I like bones brew
👍
are you dutch?
Tip 7 - Always fit a failsafe --- avoid a runaway like this muppet commenting now with my story of a 55mph head on impact into a curb 😪😭🤣😂
You guys are giving me so many tips for part 2 lol!
Does a failsafe also protect if battery runs out?