would be cool to hear about spring rate selection for weight and various types of riding / if there any misconceptions when choosing the right set up etc.
There are plenty of charts available. Racetech has a handy calculator, but it’s not always accurate. It’s important to develop a relationship with a tuner that gets you good results. This is an ongoing process. Most tuners agree on spring rates within a rate or so. General rules are fast guys may want to consider one rate stiffer. Softer springs give you a slightly lower centre of gravity, but are dangerous on jumps or whoops. Stiffer fork springs help keep the front end up in the stroke for better cornering. Stiffer springs & lighter valving feels plush. Softer springs & stiffer valving feels harsh. Maybe I will make a video on it.
One more question: “for this rider I want 120mm”. What rule of thumb do you use to set the air gap? For myself (wp open cartridge) I tried 100mm, it was terrible, now 110mm, much better, wondering if I should increase it even more.
I’ve just set thousands of oil heights and I know that at 120 the fork will feel plush deep into the stroke. I don’t need bottoming resistance for this rider.
@@ChuckfromTrueTech thank you. On a recent challenging but not too extreme ride I noticed my forks were still a few cm away from bottoming, so perhaps I’ll try 115mm next.
Can I simply add a pre-load adjuster to my forks (2020 KTM 300 XCW TPI) that didn't come with them? I carry a chainsaw on my forks sometimes and it seems like having the preload adjuster would be helpful.
Thanks for this! May I ask, if the new spring is the same length as the old spring, why did you run into trouble with the preload? Wouldnt springs would compress the same 11mm?
I could have gotten away with just swapping them, but I would have had 8.5mm preload. I would rather be on the light side and give him more adjustment.
Great tutorial👏
would be cool to hear about spring rate selection for weight and various types of riding / if there any misconceptions when choosing the right set up etc.
There are plenty of charts available. Racetech has a handy calculator, but it’s not always accurate. It’s important to develop a relationship with a tuner that gets you good results. This is an ongoing process. Most tuners agree on spring rates within a rate or so. General rules are fast guys may want to consider one rate stiffer. Softer springs give you a slightly lower centre of gravity, but are dangerous on jumps or whoops. Stiffer fork springs help keep the front end up in the stroke for better cornering. Stiffer springs & lighter valving feels plush. Softer springs & stiffer valving feels harsh. Maybe I will make a video on it.
sweet bike! :)
One more question: “for this rider I want 120mm”. What rule of thumb do you use to set the air gap? For myself (wp open cartridge) I tried 100mm, it was terrible, now 110mm, much better, wondering if I should increase it even more.
I’ve just set thousands of oil heights and I know that at 120 the fork will feel plush deep into the stroke. I don’t need bottoming resistance for this rider.
@@ChuckfromTrueTech thank you. On a recent challenging but not too extreme ride I noticed my forks were still a few cm away from bottoming, so perhaps I’ll try 115mm next.
Thanks Chuck ! Hard to tell from the vid , about how much can the preload adjuster change the preload , in mm ?
The mm increments are printed on the top. There are detents as well, so they stay.
Can I simply add a pre-load adjuster to my forks (2020 KTM 300 XCW TPI) that didn't come with them? I carry a chainsaw on my forks sometimes and it seems like having the preload adjuster would be helpful.
I doubt it would help much because changing the preload doesn’t affect the spring rate, only the ride height. You would have to replace the whole cap.
Thanks for this! May I ask, if the new spring is the same length as the old spring, why did you run into trouble with the preload? Wouldnt springs would compress the same 11mm?
I could have gotten away with just swapping them, but I would have had 8.5mm preload. I would rather be on the light side and give him more adjustment.
@@ChuckfromTrueTech so, you’re saying that the preload was excessive even with the original spring and you rectified that
+1 , I too don't understand if the spring was the same length whys there's a diff in preload height ?
Can you run the springs without any spacers? If I remove the 2.5mm spacer in there now and put my pre-load to the 0 setting, I will have 6.5mm.
That won’t hurt anything.
Nice