Only guy on RUclips that gives the down and dirty on every aspect of a Cummins build. I have learned so much from this channel. Much appreciated, Josh!!
Great video man. Definitely agree with the number of subscribers. You and WOT deserve that respect. Keep it up man. As always, hope you and the WOT families are doing well.
So good man. I've learned so much from you. I'm wanting to build a 1500hp engine for my Nissan Patrol, all thanks to you lol, I bought a 2004 325hp engine and box and had it completely stripped. Than I bought a house and had to stop it. But the passion will be there to build it some day. Being in Australia it's hard to get knowledge so you've taught me sooo much. One thing I'd say, is you need to advertise your videos. That will help get them out there and the algorithms working.
@@horsetorquesdiesel like paying to promote your videos. In studio there will be a tab that says promote or advertise your video, i believe it recommends it to people. But it's a great way to just get more views and subs. Because there's so many channels, noone probably comes across yours. Also shorts are amazing.
Wow, so much info packed into a short video. It's amazing how experienced you are at such a Young age. I really enjoy watching your videos and learning all aspects of engine building.
Learned something new with the crush. :) Since it’s the internet take this for what it is. Josh already mentioned it but, cylinder pressure management is key. I have rigs from 400whp to 800 whp fuel only and I have tuned a lot of 12v’s for fuel only and nitrous. First things I ask is head clamping force, and rods. That sets up how much torque we can make. From here we manage that torque through tuning and selecting a rpm to make the target whp number. Nothing I have makes less then 50lbs of boost on aftermarket head bolts. but I keep torque in check (bmep)/cylinder pressure over time/. It really goes a long ways fuel only or on spray to manage that pressure to what your system is capable of containing. More Rpm reduces bmep over time. Like josh said. You still hit your whp target and because your reduced torque the system lives another day. As far as 12v’s go most are over timed or on sub par injectors making things worse, cheaper engines favor cheaper parts favor more expensive lack luster results. Hit them with spray and out goes the gasket lol. 12v’s on quality components tuned with some experience at a minimum can and do extremely well. Extreme example is the haisley and scheid motors. Again great video :)
1 number in compression ratio is equivalent to 100psi cylinder pressure, 1 psi boost is 15psi cylinder pressure roughly. So that’s why the lower comp and higher boost makes less cylinder pressure and more power but the high cylinder pressure, truck will run amazing actually untill it cracks your sleeve or breaks a ringland
Great info as always. I tell guys to look at it in terms of airflow or lbs of air a minute is the most telling. If you have a MAF that's scaled right or can calculate airflow accurately, your HP "guess" based on airflow will almost always be within 2% of actual. I also say Torque is = to cylinder fill which then generates pressure which is the one and only force that generates torque in an engine period. HP is simply torque or cylinder fill over time... Cylinder pressure X piston surface area + crank leverage or distance from crank centerpoint to rod centerpoint, + drivetrain gear multiplication AKA trans gearing and rear end gearing. If you know all those things you can actually pretty accurately backtrack your cylinder pressure from your dyno sheets torque. You can also back track cylinder fill by lbs of air a min / # of cylinders. Now tuning using cylinder pressure is fantastic if you have the ability, but those high pressure/refresh rate transducers can be costly!! Not to mention dyno time.... That said engines are not complex but rather many simple things strung together in a row, so break things down to their simplest form and you'll realize the world is actually quite simple. :)
good shout out to mountain high. They still trucking away. They did my machine work, half and half fire rings and in the head, 5.9l larger valves and ported.. plenty of power. actually had to tune it down to how I am using it 👍
Hey you really explained the headgasket seating and crushing process the best, the most throughout explanation by far on all of RUclips!! Granted I don’t own a truck nor a Cummins disel 🤧 wish I could but that will come later in time lol However, I noticed you mentioned the retorque sequence method of initially warming up the engine oil up to temp, ~180F , that’s without the coolant and then immediately after tear down and do a retorque, did I get that correctly ? Then add coolant and if possible do another retorque for safe measure…… Now what about an iron block inline 6 gas engine with an aluminum head using a factory paper composite type headgasket with arp2000 studs? How would you seat this head with all your years of experience would you still follow the same torque procedure on a gasoline engine ? FYI i obviously don’t have any fire ring grooves cut into my head or block but the reason I’m mentioning my engine is this bmw engine that I have got a oem elring headgasket august and by Christmas coolant began to seep out between the block and head😢 big sad since my initial reason for working on my car was it was leaking the same way but from the exhaust side LOL. I got shit luck since now it’s leaking on the intake side which is also the opposite side in which the engine is completely mounted in. It side at a 45degreee angle toward the passenger side which is also the same side as the exhaust. Guys on the bimmer forums would only call for a retorque on heat cylcle when they used cutring head gaskets or mls. I’m not mixing oil and water but it’s been leaking coolant for months now. I have a theory as well that the arps aren’t clamping down as much tightening torque as an Oem fasterner which is a tty bolt that calls for a 22ft to set the bolt and 90degree and another 90 whereas the arp just said to finish the torque spec off at 75ftlbs which felt like nothing If someone actually read this and gives me a sensible reply without being a dick would be much appreciated……
So… I have an early 2007 Cab and Chassis with a 6.7L. October 2006 build date. It’s not a 2007.5 and it’s not a 5.9L. It either has a melted piston, so I’m looking to rebuild it for a 1964 Chevy rat rod. Fire rings an head studs is something I’m looking at doing while it’s out even though I plan to keep it fairly stock in the beginning, but plan for compound turbos and a tuner… but dependability with a trailer is my primary focus. I just want to be able to outrun my dad’s 1937 Terraplane pickup with the Big Block Chevy at the drag strip for bragging rights. 🤷🏻♂️ What do I look for when ordering parts? 2006 5.9L or 2007.5 6.7L???
I make just over 400 hp and my head gasket just popped the tinniest leak. Its only been 2 3/4 years and 35k miles. Haven't even done a burnout, was just puttin around town. Has studs and still on an hx35. Its daily driven thru winter and has been all over the country but still, 35k should be nothin for a head gasket with studs on a not powerful truck.
If you do half n halt cut then that should technically eliminate the nred for the head alignment dowels. I feel like the dowels could cause it to misalign and it would be better for the rings to find their new alignment. Also another question what about copper spray the outside mls gasket to further help the coolant and oil from mixing what are your thoughts
I'm actually surprised how well the ARP 625 studs hold on my 6.7. The 2000s gave up with the s366 but I've added a S480 to the party and make WAY more boost than anticipated (70psi). I immediately took timing and fuel out of my low to mid rpm range which is probably why it's still alive. I would've fire ringed it but the guy that did my ported big valve head didn't want to do it for a daily driven work truck.
i cant find any good info on valve seats on 5.9 common rail do u need to replace them is there a hp range to do so or should u do it no matter what it would be cool if u did a vid on this thanks love ur channel
Damn I’m building my 97 12v now with a built he351r with a 475/96/1.15 with gator studs and was gonna run a mls gasket but got a ported fire ringed head from Hamilton cams so fire ring it is. I have a 63/71/14 laying around I might build a kit with a s480 to put on the truck. Currently going for 600hp but eventually want a clean 750
@horsetorquesdiesel So now that we have a supply chain shortage on the custom age 625 for the 6.7 what is our options if any? What is the difference between the other cummins apr head stud kits? What would it take to fit a 5.9 625 kit on my 6.7? Is it possible because I need stud asap.
Could you do a video discussing Efi live tuning? I have an 06 5.9 that I had tuned. in stock form it made 40 psi boost in tune 5. Then I put 45% over injectors in and was pushing 40 in tune 1 with low smoke and 45 in tune 2-5 with lots of smoke. I had the truck retuned to clean it up and now I rarely go over 30-35 psi boost and egts get around 1400 in tune 1, which I rarely if ever saw with the previous set of tunes. I’m just curious what factors in the tune writing can cause these changes. All of my current tune settings are decently clean.
Well, I’m surprised I mean I don’t doubt your word no doubt no doubt freedom racing engines is extremely good stuff and so is DNJ and the other people you mentioned no one ever mentioned Hamilton Cams. Their cylinder heads are pretty good too. I would think this is six in a rowJim from Kennerdell, Pennsylvania❤❤
when i blew my headgasket went to pull the head off and turns out the previous owner had square cut fire rings in it so i had to call haisley and they got me setup with em to get my truck running again but now i need a whole new engine because radius cut is way better 😂
I was told not to use superglue on my rings to hold them in the head during install, I trust your judgment on it though I’ll be assembling it all together soon
How about your take on coolant? A lot of people say no coolant with fire rings for first warm up. I’ve been told by many long term engine builders running it without coolant is the worst idea
Man there are a million ways to do it. I've never had an issue with super glue. But you can also center the ring in the gasket on the block if you prefer
What about oring heads. My 12v finally blew a headgasket at 493000 miles. I have a set of compounds on it with cheap headstuds that was still the factory head gasket to.
Would love to see a video on how to make 3rd gens ride better. you may have have covered it in a previous video I didn’t see but I have bilsteins and cal tracks on mine and it rides horrid.
How much you charge for a job like this? Got a quote from a guy down here in Charlotte and I’m curious if he knows what he’s talking about. He talked me into a power stroke fire ringed head.
Just to cut fire rings in a Cummins head it’s like 200ish bucks depending on if it needs a surface. Our labor is 12 hours generally on a fire ring head install which puts you at 1320 bucks in labor. Not including the gaskets and studs etc
Advise please: motorhome with fresh vp44 5.9 with PDD towing compounds ( k27/369 sxe) and 75hp injectors , tuned to push 55lb boost keeping EGTs below1350f and using arp2000’s also using water injection for more EGT control. Been reliable so far with 10,000m. I’m guessing 450hp Have I got a safe unit or should I consider removing head and grooving it for fire rings ????
Being a motorhome you definitely want the most reliability. It would be worth the time spent to pull it back apart and get the head at least o ringed. You may even want to try out PDDs new towing cylinder head while you have the chance to swap them it’s well worth the money for someone towing or something like a motorhome in your case.
@@ra1ny26 as I’m down in Australia where would I get the specs to machine the head for o rings and what gasket and o rings would I use ( 24v vp44 engine)
Is it okay to use ARP 425's with fire rings as opposed to ARP 625's? I know you said to use the 625's or an L19, but am curious on your opinion on the 425's. Thank you!
According to ARP no you don't. However in my experience yes you do. 625s can get away without, but still a good idea. You will see, especially with a new gasket they will move half turn or so. I like to do 2000s to 135-140 and 3 torques, but over torque at your own risk.
It'll run okay but will be begging for more fuel, unless it's a 5th gen. If you really don't plan to upgrade your fuel then you can tighten up the 80s exhaust to make it come on sooner. A 475 would have been a better choice I think, no need for 900 worth of air if you don't want to go past 550.
i cant find a machine shop to do this work. ive called everyone i can find with in a 800 mile radius and none of them say they can do this, nor have they ever heard of anyone that does
@@horsetorquesdiesel Northern Minnesota. I think I found a place in Southern Wisconsin, 300 mi drive. My current plan is to bring him The lower rotating assembly. Then later bring him my donor head. Kind of build stuff in stages, assembling in my garage. The guy can put my piston assemblies on a scale for balancing and he can put an o-ring in the block. He has a torque plate to machine the cylinders with. That was hard to find.
How do you drive it. Well as hard as it will take. And I’m here cuz I blew it up lol. I myself if I take it off and deck the head it gets fire rings. If it’s an old man, probably not. Young kid= put fire rings in that truck and do yourself a favor. He will run it on tune 5 and lay burn outs everywhere and. It look at the egt gauge one time haha.
Xotic studs are garbage. I think I learned my lesson cheaping out. The stud broke a year after install, or basically a month after installing compounds. Cost me an engine in the end.
![50HP To 5000HP | Choosing Your Head Gasket | SCE Gaskets [TECH TALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tcMF7DuugEI/mqdefault.jpg)
Only guy on RUclips that gives the down and dirty on every aspect of a Cummins build. I have learned so much from this channel. Much appreciated, Josh!!
Thank you
Thank you for the education.
I've had great luck with oringing the block at the power level I'm at.
Great video man. Definitely agree with the number of subscribers. You and WOT deserve that respect. Keep it up man. As always, hope you and the WOT families are doing well.
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to inform us about all things head gaskets.
So good man. I've learned so much from you. I'm wanting to build a 1500hp engine for my Nissan Patrol, all thanks to you lol, I bought a 2004 325hp engine and box and had it completely stripped. Than I bought a house and had to stop it. But the passion will be there to build it some day. Being in Australia it's hard to get knowledge so you've taught me sooo much. One thing I'd say, is you need to advertise your videos. That will help get them out there and the algorithms working.
Not sure how to advertise a video
@@horsetorquesdiesel like paying to promote your videos. In studio there will be a tab that says promote or advertise your video, i believe it recommends it to people. But it's a great way to just get more views and subs. Because there's so many channels, noone probably comes across yours. Also shorts are amazing.
Really great info here Josh, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!!!
Once again Josh really great information very well explained take care stay safe God bless always 🙋🏻♂️🇬🇧
Great educational video. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything. I've learned a lot from you.
Wow, so much info packed into a short video. It's amazing how experienced you are at such a Young age. I really enjoy watching your videos and learning all aspects of engine building.
I’m 32 in that video 31. I’m old 😂
Learned something new with the crush. :)
Since it’s the internet take this for what it is. Josh already mentioned it but, cylinder pressure management is key. I have rigs from 400whp to 800 whp fuel only and I have tuned a lot of 12v’s for fuel only and nitrous. First things I ask is head clamping force, and rods. That sets up how much torque we can make. From here we manage that torque through tuning and selecting a rpm to make the target whp number. Nothing I have makes less then 50lbs of boost on aftermarket head bolts. but I keep torque in check (bmep)/cylinder pressure over time/.
It really goes a long ways fuel only or on spray to manage that pressure to what your system is capable of containing.
More Rpm reduces bmep over time. Like josh said. You still hit your whp target and because your reduced torque the system lives another day.
As far as 12v’s go most are over timed or on sub par injectors making things worse, cheaper engines favor cheaper parts favor more expensive lack luster results. Hit them with spray and out goes the gasket lol.
12v’s on quality components tuned with some experience at a minimum can and do extremely well. Extreme example is the haisley and scheid motors.
Again great video :)
Hell Yeah Brother 🇺🇸🦅
Awesome video, and solid advice....keep hammering
1 number in compression ratio is equivalent to 100psi cylinder pressure, 1 psi boost is 15psi cylinder pressure roughly. So that’s why the lower comp and higher boost makes less cylinder pressure and more power but the high cylinder pressure, truck will run amazing actually untill it cracks your sleeve or breaks a ringland
Great info as always. I tell guys to look at it in terms of airflow or lbs of air a minute is the most telling. If you have a MAF that's scaled right or can calculate airflow accurately, your HP "guess" based on airflow will almost always be within 2% of actual. I also say Torque is = to cylinder fill which then generates pressure which is the one and only force that generates torque in an engine period. HP is simply torque or cylinder fill over time... Cylinder pressure X piston surface area + crank leverage or distance from crank centerpoint to rod centerpoint, + drivetrain gear multiplication AKA trans gearing and rear end gearing. If you know all those things you can actually pretty accurately backtrack your cylinder pressure from your dyno sheets torque. You can also back track cylinder fill by lbs of air a min / # of cylinders. Now tuning using cylinder pressure is fantastic if you have the ability, but those high pressure/refresh rate transducers can be costly!! Not to mention dyno time.... That said engines are not complex but rather many simple things strung together in a row, so break things down to their simplest form and you'll realize the world is actually quite simple. :)
good shout out to mountain high. They still trucking away. They did my machine work, half and half fire rings and in the head, 5.9l larger valves and ported.. plenty of power. actually had to tune it down to how I am using it 👍
Thanks for all the great info.
Great video as usual josh 👍🏻
Hey you really explained the headgasket seating and crushing process the best, the most throughout explanation by far on all of RUclips!! Granted I don’t own a truck nor a Cummins disel 🤧 wish I could but that will come later in time lol
However, I noticed you mentioned the retorque sequence method of initially warming up the engine oil up to temp, ~180F , that’s without the coolant and then immediately after tear down and do a retorque, did I get that correctly ? Then add coolant and if possible do another retorque for safe measure……
Now what about an iron block inline 6 gas engine with an aluminum head using a factory paper composite type headgasket with arp2000 studs? How would you seat this head with all your years of experience would you still follow the same torque procedure on a gasoline engine ? FYI i obviously don’t have any fire ring grooves cut into my head or block but the reason I’m mentioning my engine is this bmw engine that I have got a oem elring headgasket august and by Christmas coolant began to seep out between the block and head😢 big sad since my initial reason for working on my car was it was leaking the same way but from the exhaust side LOL. I got shit luck since now it’s leaking on the intake side which is also the opposite side in which the engine is completely mounted in. It side at a 45degreee angle toward the passenger side which is also the same side as the exhaust.
Guys on the bimmer forums would only call for a retorque on heat cylcle when they used cutring head gaskets or mls. I’m not mixing oil and water but it’s been leaking coolant for months now. I have a theory as well that the arps aren’t clamping down as much tightening torque as an Oem fasterner which is a tty bolt that calls for a 22ft to set the bolt and 90degree and another 90 whereas the arp just said to finish the torque spec off at 75ftlbs which felt like nothing
If someone actually read this and gives me a sensible reply without being a dick would be much appreciated……
So… I have an early 2007 Cab and Chassis with a 6.7L. October 2006 build date. It’s not a 2007.5 and it’s not a 5.9L. It either has a melted piston, so I’m looking to rebuild it for a 1964 Chevy rat rod. Fire rings an head studs is something I’m looking at doing while it’s out even though I plan to keep it fairly stock in the beginning, but plan for compound turbos and a tuner… but dependability with a trailer is my primary focus.
I just want to be able to outrun my dad’s 1937 Terraplane pickup with the Big Block Chevy at the drag strip for bragging rights. 🤷🏻♂️
What do I look for when ordering parts? 2006 5.9L or 2007.5 6.7L???
Been using Haisley fire rings for about 20 years. They will hold enough to split your block. 😎
I make just over 400 hp and my head gasket just popped the tinniest leak. Its only been 2 3/4 years and 35k miles. Haven't even done a burnout, was just puttin around town. Has studs and still on an hx35. Its daily driven thru winter and has been all over the country but still, 35k should be nothin for a head gasket with studs on a not powerful truck.
If you do half n halt cut then that should technically eliminate the nred for the head alignment dowels. I feel like the dowels could cause it to misalign and it would be better for the rings to find their new alignment. Also another question what about copper spray the outside mls gasket to further help the coolant and oil from mixing what are your thoughts
I'm actually surprised how well the ARP 625 studs hold on my 6.7. The 2000s gave up with the s366 but I've added a S480 to the party and make WAY more boost than anticipated (70psi). I immediately took timing and fuel out of my low to mid rpm range which is probably why it's still alive. I would've fire ringed it but the guy that did my ported big valve head didn't want to do it for a daily driven work truck.
i cant find any good info on valve seats on 5.9 common rail do u need to replace them is there a hp range to do so or should u do it no matter what it would be cool if u did a vid on this thanks love ur channel
Damn I’m building my 97 12v now with a built he351r with a 475/96/1.15 with gator studs and was gonna run a mls gasket but got a ported fire ringed head from Hamilton cams so fire ring it is. I have a 63/71/14 laying around I might build a kit with a s480 to put on the truck. Currently going for 600hp but eventually want a clean 750
@horsetorquesdiesel So now that we have a supply chain shortage on the custom age 625 for the 6.7 what is our options if any? What is the difference between the other cummins apr head stud kits? What would it take to fit a 5.9 625 kit on my 6.7? Is it possible because I need stud asap.
Could you do a video discussing Efi live tuning? I have an 06 5.9 that I had tuned. in stock form it made 40 psi boost in tune 5. Then I put 45% over injectors in and was pushing 40 in tune 1 with low smoke and 45 in tune 2-5 with lots of smoke. I had the truck retuned to clean it up and now I rarely go over 30-35 psi boost and egts get around 1400 in tune 1, which I rarely if ever saw with the previous set of tunes. I’m just curious what factors in the tune writing can cause these changes. All of my current tune settings are decently clean.
than you
A josh I installed a 6.7 head on my 5.9 do those steam holes hold water or leak back water
Well, I’m surprised I mean I don’t doubt your word no doubt no doubt freedom racing engines is extremely good stuff and so is DNJ and the other people you mentioned no one ever mentioned Hamilton Cams. Their cylinder heads are pretty good too. I would think this is six in a rowJim from Kennerdell, Pennsylvania❤❤
Do a video on cnc ported cummins head
Have you had any experience with a Hamilton fire ring head for 6.7
Great info thanks for sharing
when i blew my headgasket went to pull the head off and turns out the previous owner had square cut fire rings in it so i had to call haisley and they got me setup with em to get my truck running again but now i need a whole new engine because radius cut is way better 😂
I was told not to use superglue on my rings to hold them in the head during install, I trust your judgment on it though I’ll be assembling it all together soon
That’s how I have always done it and never had an issue
How about your take on coolant? A lot of people say no coolant with fire rings for first warm up. I’ve been told by many long term engine builders running it without coolant is the worst idea
great video
I have been told not to super glue the ring Is there pros and cons? Obviously falling off ext!!
Man there are a million ways to do it. I've never had an issue with super glue. But you can also center the ring in the gasket on the block if you prefer
What about oring heads. My 12v finally blew a headgasket at 493000 miles. I have a set of compounds on it with cheap headstuds that was still the factory head gasket to.
They are ok I just don’t like them. We sell customers a fire ring gaskets
how can i get in contact with you i have a some performance questions about my 5th gen.
Call the shop David is happy to answer any questions you have 276-608-3298
Would love to see a video on how to make 3rd gens ride better. you may have have covered it in a previous video I didn’t see but I have bilsteins and cal tracks on mine and it rides horrid.
Thuren coils, fox shocks is all I did
Hell ya brother 🇨🇦 🐻
what do you think about oring? its way harder to find a shop to firering something than to oring it
I like fire rings more but orings work well in like towing applications
@@horsetorquesdiesel ive got a cam, ho pistons, compounds, 7x 0.014 sac injectors. plus the quadzilla. thoughts?
How much you charge for a job like this? Got a quote from a guy down here in Charlotte and I’m curious if he knows what he’s talking about. He talked me into a power stroke fire ringed head.
Just to cut fire rings in a Cummins head it’s like 200ish bucks depending on if it needs a surface. Our labor is 12 hours generally on a fire ring head install which puts you at 1320 bucks in labor. Not including the gaskets and studs etc
@@horsetorquesdiesel who can I call to get a real estimate?
Advise please: motorhome with fresh vp44 5.9 with PDD towing compounds ( k27/369 sxe) and 75hp injectors , tuned to push 55lb boost keeping EGTs below1350f and using arp2000’s also using water injection for more EGT control.
Been reliable so far with 10,000m. I’m guessing 450hp
Have I got a safe unit or should I consider removing head and grooving it for fire rings ????
Being a motorhome you definitely want the most reliability. It would be worth the time spent to pull it back apart and get the head at least o ringed. You may even want to try out PDDs new towing cylinder head while you have the chance to swap them it’s well worth the money for someone towing or something like a motorhome in your case.
@@ra1ny26 as I’m down in Australia where would I get the specs to machine the head for o rings and what gasket and o rings would I use ( 24v vp44 engine)
Is it okay to use ARP 425's with fire rings as opposed to ARP 625's? I know you said to use the 625's or an L19, but am curious on your opinion on the 425's. Thank you!
No they don’t crush properly
@@horsetorquesdiesel Understood, thank you.
Slay ready🤙🏽
How do you feel about the exotic head studs?
Eh they ain’t bad, but we try to put ARP in
Stock just tuned 6.7 with arp 2000s do you need a hot re-torque ? With a new gasket torqued to 130lbs ?
All head studs need a hot retorque
Why doesn’t it say that on ARP instructions
@@charles15519 I know they should put it on there but they don't.
@@bigmurph1447 because they know better than you do.
According to ARP no you don't. However in my experience yes you do. 625s can get away without, but still a good idea. You will see, especially with a new gasket they will move half turn or so. I like to do 2000s to 135-140 and 3 torques, but over torque at your own risk.
“Fire” video 👍🏼
6.7 Cummins with Aisin currently running s364.5 T4 with s480 T6, wanting to keep stock fueling. Thoughts on my setup?
It'll run okay but will be begging for more fuel, unless it's a 5th gen. If you really don't plan to upgrade your fuel then you can tighten up the 80s exhaust to make it come on sooner. A 475 would have been a better choice I think, no need for 900 worth of air if you don't want to go past 550.
Probably drives great but it definitely could use a fuel upgrade!
@@horsetorquesdiesel what’s the best way I can reach you to buy my next round of parts from you. If you’re interested
@@dustindauzat8625 call the shop 276-608-3298
How much you charge to build me a 1000+ hp transmission with a full manual valve body
Starts at 8700
Is that for labor and parts? And what’s the benefits of having a ratchet shifter vs a normal auto and what’s the cons
@@elijahbuford5454 that’s just a trans build so labor of building it and parts
@@horsetorquesdiesel what’s the pros a cons of ratchet shifting vs normal column shifter
@@elijahbuford5454 one you shift, one the computer does. Really personal preference. I always wanna do hood rat stuff so I like full control
i cant find a machine shop to do this work. ive called everyone i can find with in a 800 mile radius and none of them say they can do this, nor have they ever heard of anyone that does
Where you at?
@@horsetorquesdiesel Northern Minnesota. I think I found a place in Southern Wisconsin, 300 mi drive. My current plan is to bring him The lower rotating assembly. Then later bring him my donor head. Kind of build stuff in stages, assembling in my garage.
The guy can put my piston assemblies on a scale for balancing and he can put an o-ring in the block. He has a torque plate to machine the cylinders with. That was hard to find.
@@beardedgaming1337 Eric at no limit is in Wisconsin go there
@@horsetorquesdiesel thanks, ill give them a call
yup
How do you drive it. Well as hard as it will take. And I’m here cuz I blew it up lol. I myself if I take it off and deck the head it gets fire rings. If it’s an old man, probably not. Young kid= put fire rings in that truck and do yourself a favor. He will run it on tune 5 and lay burn outs everywhere and. It look at the egt gauge one time haha.
Xotic studs are garbage. I think I learned my lesson cheaping out. The stud broke a year after install, or basically a month after installing compounds. Cost me an engine in the end.
Ouch, that has always been a fear of mine, breaking a stud.
@@joshuaquilliam2887 Never even gave it a thought until this.
👍💪
✊🏾