How to Install Interconnected - Smoke, CO, and Heat Alarms
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2021
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That ceiling looks so good! (Good video, too.)
You may already know this but all these type alarms are notorious for collecting dust and giving out a false alarm due to this. The easy fix is to periodically blow the dust out. Love the ceiling.
Something about this video made it amazing
Thanks
Thank you, Paul! 😊💪💪💪💪
Thanks for watching!
You should use an Electrical Receptacle Box Extension Rings on the wood shiplap ceiling.
I enjoy watching your build. I think I started when you were setting up slab heating. I like your attention to detail and planning. I originally thought the insulation was golden, what a pain to fix and extra learning. I noticed you used Wago connectors. I’m good with that for low current situations such as modern lighting and alarms. I’m still old fashion on higher current such as outlets. I prefer wire nuts properly installed for maximum surface contact on the connection, especially when multiple outlets are serial on a single breaker. Also, only buy outlets with screw terminals so the wire can be wrapped before tightening. I’ve learned watching, and enjoy seeing someone reach a dream. Hope the concrete floor turns out great! It should the way insulated from the ground. Wish I knew that 3-1/2 yrs ago when building my shop. The electric bill is horrible in the winter with the concrete being a big heat sink.
That's one thing I've wondered about, how is the heated slab tubing able to stand up to concrete cracking? I would think this could easily break a plastic line and I see from his video that cracks can be fairly wide - a mm or so.
@@EdwardTilley I’ve seen best practices in multiple applications, don’t think it will be an issue. The pipe is quite forgiving with a good base, and not allowing wide swings in temperature. He also did the proper reliefs where it exits the concrete for connecting to the boiler. I think non issue.
How do I sync them together?
It's usually a good idea to put your smoke alarm circuit on the master bedroom lighting circuit. Not a dedicated circuit.
NFPA recommends changing detectors out every ten years. I bet this gets missed in a lot of houses.
Hello Paul , just curious if you plan on putting some kind of fire escape upstairs. Me being a father of 4 kids and was a firefighter for 8 years. Just herd to many horrible stories about kids being trapped. Thanks for serving and your doing a great job on this build. God Bless
Thanks for a great video.
When you install these interlinked alarms, do they get interlinked themselves or do you have to use the same cable connections as eg as you do for spot lights cable connections? How do these alarms get interlinked with each other? what do you do to get them get interlinked with each other?
Pls reply, thanks
Nice video ! . Question Can I internconnect differents brands of Smoke detectors for example Kidde with X-sense ? It will work ? . Thanks
How much does this cost to get done? And how did you know where the connectors were?
I didn’t quite understand how they interconnect. Do you wire them all in series throughout the entire house? Or do you use the Green wire from the 14/2 as the wire to interconnect all the alarms at the panel? Or did you run an individual wire to all of them in series as a communication wire ?
If you were not required by local code to use a hardwired system, would you have gone the same route with all the rough in ect? If so what are the advantages of this system as opposed to individual devices?
That’s a good question. It is annoying to me that they have battery backup and then they chirp at you if one is low. I understand the reasoning for this but that makes me think why not just use a battery WiFi system. I’ve had both systems and there are Pros and cons to both.
Dunno if you're still responding to comments but we are replacing all of our smoke detectors in our house. They were installed 2006. We pulled out all of the upstairs alarms and hooked up one to make sure we were doing it correctly. When we turned on the power, the one we installed started alarming. Is this because we took the others out but not replaced them? Should we put the new ones in place before turning on the power. I know, this is probably basic, but right now I feel like an idiot. Thanks in advance.
Any particular reason you went with a 120V AC solution instead of a low voltage system?
Because this system cost hundreds of dollars instead of thousands and is much easier/cheaper to maintain?
What are you doing about security systems - phone integrated cams, motion sensors, etc..
OH MY GAWD, THERE'S SO MUCH DANGER!
@@gregmize01 Makes hunting easier for you yokels. I wasn't asking where he was setting up a brig, everyone sets up cheap cam systems because they do a lot and don't cost a lot. Also you can talk to a delivery driver from your front door even when you are out; alarm the pool when no-one's watching the kids etc... I almost lost a toddler to a pool, so it's cheap insurance.
How does the 14/3 connect into the breaker box? Do you just cut the red off at the first alarm so it doesn't head back to the box?
Good question. How is the red wire terminated to allow the communication between them?
Connect the power like you normally would. You don’t need the red wire in the panel. You can actually use 14:2 to the first device. The red wire just talks to all the other devices. So you need that between all the devices
Always keep an abundance of batteries. My alarms low-battery beep always happens at 2am and we can never figure out which one is low so we change them all.
If you just change them on the same day you change clocks spring and fall then you’ll never have the 2am wake up call. Easy huh!
If one battery is low, does it set off house wide alarm?
No, the unit with the low battery just chirps every few minutes, usually.
Future reference please add a noise warning ⚠️. On headphones when the noise happened
co2 detector in the ceiling ?
co2 disperses essentially evenly from what I've read
What’s inside of the upstairs utility room versus the downstairs utility room?
More hot air!
Here's the latest video tour on the upstairs- we will do the downstairs soon ruclips.net/video/otG--RPKU4g/видео.html
Did you use wagos for the whole house or just the fire alarms? Myself I’m not a fan of the wagos. I have the same co2/ fire alarms in my house
Used them everywhere. I actually like them. You just have to make sure the wire gets pushed in good. I’ve had no problems with bad connections with the wagos.
@@MrPostFrame good to hear. Been following you guys since you built your storm shelter walls. Keep up the good work .
Are those ionization detectors? I strongly suggest using photoelectric instead
Ionization alarms work. I don’t think he’ll be replacing all of his smoke alarms again.
What sucks about smoke detectors is that you have to change the battery I think every year.
There are now alarms that come with a built in battery that is supposed to last 10 years.
@@docphi oh that's great then
Changing laws in Australia now that have to be powered by mains electricity, not exact details but an example is for residential aged care, all units linked, so I expect that covers all commercial buildings eventually, and probably spread to all homes much the same as the Earth Leakage Breakers or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters as they are now called; batteries are great for things like electric cars.