DynaMat.. Which is a sound damping material that has been in production for the car audio industry for many years..(Used inside car doors and on the insides of body panels) Works as well or even better than all of the versions mentioned in your video. And is readily available online. I cut templates out of thin card stock and then used a razor the cut my pieces to fit. The platter to my audio Technica LP120 now has almost zero resonance. When struck it now gives a solid "thud" sound. It's very inexpensive and works absolute wonders for getting rid of resonance. There are several companies that produce a similar product. But Dynamat is the originator.
It's a been year, but maybe you'll see this comment! I wasn't familiar with DynaMat, but it seems like a good solution. If you've used it before do you think there would be a big difference in putting the dynamat on the black undercoating vs stripping the undercoating and putting it on the aluminum directly for the LP140 shown in the video. Just trying to avoid modifying it more than I need to.
I did this on a couple of platters. However a better solution is is to pour an epoxy (eg gflex) into the base of the TT. The reason is that it is more difficult to keep the platter balanced. Dynamat can still be used on internal parts of the TT.
Brilliant. Just exactly what I needed if my Turntable Platter is suitable. The ringing is something I have been thinking about for some time. I didn't want to do it DIY style in case it didn't work. Thanks Paul, you and Soundeck are offering a valuable product/service.
Great video, Paul. I’ve rebuilt a Sansui SR222 MkII with a brand new, heavily damped plinth. This was a project born of nostalgia and made no financial sense whatsoever! The platter has a very smart acrylic mat and it now makes a very nice thunk when the struck when in place. Given that I’ve already rewired the arm with silver litz wire, added high quality phono and mains sockets so I can use better cables for both and replaced the mains components with high quality alternatives, would I consider spending yet more on this turntable? Of course I will. 😄 Just to prove the level of insanity here, the cartridge is a Goldring G1042. And that’s your fault too. After watching your review of it, I replaced the Linn K9 that was on it previously. Sound fantastic now.
I bought one a while back for my Technics 1210gr, very happy with the results and it looks good too. I’m talking of the soundeck platter mat not the damping.
I have a Pro-Ject turntable made of MDF and a quarter inch pure vinyl cemented to the top of the platter. there is absolutely no ringing when tapping the platter. Also, the sub platter uses magnets to isolate the main platter.
I wonder how this would work with a two part platter/sub-platter (a la Linn, Thorens etc) The parts are supposed to cancel ringing no? Thoughts Paul? Excellent detailed, entertaining and thorough review!
I PURCHASED AN AUDIOQUEST SORBOTHANE MAT BACK IN 1994 FOR A LINN LP12 AND IT WAS SUCH A GREAT IMPROVEMENT, I TRIED MANY MATS - BUT THIS WAS THE BEST- BY FAR....
Hi Paul Thank you so much for this article having as previously stated I acquired the 120 to enable me to play 78 rpm records because the rega p3 has no such ability . From the very start I was very impressed with this deck considering it’s relatively low price , and began to wonder how it could be improved . I did get the appropriate head shell and 78 cartridge , but still felt a need to push its boundaries as they say. I had noticed the platers ringing ability so was wondering how to overcome come the problem , enter your good self with this simple solution at minimum cost . I did hear you mention about changing the cartridge to the VM 95 e which may deck came with , am I totally getting the wrong end of the stick as they say which is more than likely . If not is there a cartridge above the 95 which might just squeeze the last drop out of this rather fascinating deck . Yes I know it sounds all a bit daft , but in truth that pretty much sums me up anyway 🤣. Best wishes and kind regards as always 👍👍👍
I look forward to watchning this review, I have a Garrard Zero which uses two platters,(the idler version) I replaced the top platter and mat with a small acrylic type, noticable improvement, and now i need to damp the smaller sub platter which has no damping whatsoever
A Linn, any Linn would have been an interesting test for the SD treatment. For whatever reason, Linn dealers used the strike the outer platter as part of their sales pitch. Never heard any other platter ring as loud and as long as a Linn. One update for a split platter, such as a Linn, is to apply SRM Tech Tripod platter isolation. I can confirm that it does what is claimed of it. I also use SRM Tech Platter Isolator on my Nottingham Analogue type TT. It has a 7Kg solid platter.
Not a fan of the basic cheapo rubber type you see on budget decks, including this one. They tend to bounce vibration back rather than damp or drain it. They make things worse, not better. Butyl’s a better rubber for mats but it’s more expensive.
Hi and thanks for your reviews, damping looks very efficient. Why do they need a photo ? The turntable reference should be enough, right? A blind test with a friend exchanging the platters and you listening would have been great too.
I use my ears for testing. That’s what I do. As for your first point? Two things. Firstly, never assume. Things in design can change. ‘Never assume’ is actually a good piece of general life advice. Secondly, Soundeck doesn’t own a detailed turntable database. As I’ve said in the video, Soundeck derives from a heavy industry steel company. Soundeck is a pet project of the MD.
Looks like a really worthwhile upgrade, and fairly reasonable to boot. I have an AT 140 and am wondering how it would work on the AT 140…..would the damping attach to the rubber that’s already there or would you need to remove that rubber damping first?
Interesting looking product. I have an old Technics SL1300 mkI - the platter very much rings like a bell when struck - it would be nice if it didn't! My only worry with this product is the possibility of unbalancing the platter? If you don't stick the pieces down absolutely precisely could it be enough to cause some uneven weight distribution. Possibly not an issue at all but something that crossed my mind.
@@TheAudiophileMan Regrettably after consulting with them it was deemed my platter wasn't suitable for this particular product. Considering their platter mat instead now.
Everything, Tom. The motion of the platter, the bearing under the platter, the motion of the tonearm, the bearing under that, the turntable's motor, the incredible forces emanating from the crashing stylus in the vinyl groove, the vibration underneath your turntable from the other hifi components, your floor, RF interference...you name it.
just an observation. After attaching the dampening steel, the ringing should be tested not by hitting the steel, but anywhere else. this because any vibration on a turntable does not originate from random objects hitting the platter from below.
True Ivo - the vibration does originate elsewhere. Although that does make for a less effective video demo :) Also, I still feel there is a relevancy here because it shows how easily vibration passes through the platter in the first place (no matter where the vibration originated) and finally, the direct comparison between the undamped and damped platters shows how much the vibration is restricted and effectively killed, even if the platter is hit directly (a 'worst case' scenario, lets say).
Thank you so much for this review! I haven't heard of this and I thought that I had heard of everything. Ha. I appreciate it. It doesn't seem like too much cost either for the custom service. Awesome 👍
The only way to determine if some platter dampening method really works would be to test the actual output with something like an oscilloscope. Listening is simply too subjective to be of any real meaning unless the sound difference was profound, which I seriously doubt. Striking a platter and making it ring seems to me to be completely irrelevant to how it works when in actual use on the turntable. There is nothing striking the platter when in use to make it vibrate or ring in such a manner. And it's affixed to the turntable itself which is going to have a dampening effect. Thats the reason for the heavy plinth base and isolation feet.
This is the future, isn’t it? “Robot X? Tell me if it’s raining outside.” “But master, if you step outside you will feel the rain on your face, see the lightning and hear the thunder!” “Bollocks Robot X! All of that is just your brain fooling you into thinking that weather is happening. Give me a measurement to six decimal places otherwise I’m not putting my coat on.” You brain is far more complex and sophisticated than any oscilloscope. The problem is, most people underuse that tool. And it's the brain, not the ears. The ears are a processing tool for the brain to ‘hear’. But look, forgive me :) To answer your point. Firstly, re. the science bit. Turntables work on a micro level. They are being ‘hit’ in a thousand different ways every time you play a record. Any - any - micro vibration will then turn - through microphony - into detail veiling high-frequency noise. That is, vibration is turned into an electrical signal. And that harms sound quality. Secondly? Of course this review’s subjective. I spend half my time on this channel explaining that my reviews are subjective. Mainly because our ears/brain processes music in a wholly subjective fashion based *completely on personal bias*. I’ve been in the HiFi industry for many years and worked under editors who use measurements, listening panels, blind testing et al, I have zero trust in their abilities to solely tell the entire story of 'sound'. They are - I must emphasise after that rant - immensely helpful as a secondary, an adjunct, to a review but that's it. I know lots of people disagree with me - and I guess you will be one of those - but that's my view. If you trust me as a critic then great and I talk about that very thing here: ruclips.net/video/-NWuE-1yFJ8/видео.html Anyone who has an issue with my comments here should view that video first before shouting at me :) If you don't trust me as a critic then find another. And I don't say that out of nastiness or malice or bitterness. Again, I advise this in the video above. You need to filter trusted critics. It’s one of the responsibilities you have as a potential customer. When selecting HiFi, I use my ears (brain). Ultimately, when if comes right down to it? So should you.
@@TheAudiophileMan yes but somethings are measurable with instruments. If there are some sort of distortion, or aberrant noise and similar you could certainly measure it. Wow and flutter is something that is measured isn’t it? Total harmonic distortion? So if a manufacturer of something like acrylic platters wants to prove that they are actually better then where are the measurements? If they don’t want to show them then I’m suspicious that’s there is truly any difference. There is a heck of a lot of snake oil in the audio industry. Obviously. What about the ridiculously overpriced cables? Or the ridiculous idea that copper cables sound warm and silver sounds cold? I have read reviews with people, claiming the headphones sounded so much better, base so much more impactful, so much warmer or so much detail or whatever. All because they bought a $2k for long cable to replace the manufacturer supplied cable. It’s absurd. It’s not possible. But apparently people want to believe that. And manufacturers are more than happy to sell expensive crap to them that they don’t need. And yes while the important part is in the listening, sound can be measured. Because I think if you cannot establish some sort of standards by scientific measurements, then just anything goes. So yeah, I’m a skeptic until you can actually prove it to me. And I don’t trust my listening. And I especially don’t trust mini review reviews on RUclips because they are obviously old, like me, the hearing has degraded. You can’t help it. That’s mother nature.
OK, last blast :) Firstly? Couldn't care less how it measures, as long as it sounds good and I'm having a good time. That's all that matters. That's it. I don't buy HiFi for the sake of it or because to measures well. I buy it to listen to music. That's my priority. If a silver box does that job and my brain gives it a thumbs up, that's all I care about. And you shouldn't worry about it either. Also be aware that there's a lot of people out there making lots of money off the back of spouting lots of science in terms of sound. I know because I've worked for lots of them. And good luck to them, if that's their bag. But that ain't for me. Frankly? I don't need to prove anything. You're here to listen to my opinion. For good or ill. That's all it is. In reviewing terms? I'm 'at it' every day (ahem) and like anyone who practices at anything for long enough, I'm good at my job. But hey, look, check out that video link - this channel is but one mere element in the research you need to do before buying HiFi. Don't let me tell you what to do, just consider/dump what I say and do more research. Also, on a tangent, it's well known that there's a host of HiFi kit out there (and I've spoken to the engineers of said products and other HiFi magazine editors who agree) that measure badly and sound wonderful. And I can confirm that too. And I can hear wow and flutter. Don't need no box to tell me that Sinatra has had a bourbon too many... As I say, measurements can be useful. I use them in my reviews. But I don't let them form/dominate my buying decision. I buy music for me to listen to. I don't buy it to put a smile on a measuring box. Right, that's me done on this debate. I think you have an idea where I'm at on this subject. You're welcome to keep posting but I have to be fair to others (others here, my website, Facebook Group, Patreon, Twitter, etc so lots of questions to answer and there's only so many hours, etc, etc).
Would there be such an improvement on a mdf platter such as on my See Revolver or the glass platter on my Systemdek XII 900? Would the SRM Tec acrylic platter for the Systemdek be the better option in your opinion?
Off topic, given the latest controversy over zerodust ( maybe all similar products) stylus gel, I'd love to hear yoour suggestions on stylus cleaning. Love the channel.
I am just a bit curious I have a old Rotel rp830 I am currently using a ortophon 2m blue planning to up grade to a black do you think my table would benefit sonically from the under platter dampining and the platter mat together or would the mat be enough this table was actually built by Micro-Seki who was Rotels parent company at the time thanks.
I've never looked under the platter of that one - are we talking bare aluminium there? If so, sure. Also, does it use a cheap rubber mat? If so, I'd recommend an upgrade there too.
Yes it does. On a micro level. And that's all it takes because your stylus also works on a micro level. My test was done to accentuate the ringing so you could hear it in the video. A felt mat will help to some extent to damp vibration on your turntable. To some extent only, though.
There is an American product called Boom Mat its primary purpose is sound deadening in automobiles it comes in the form of tape, spray and an actual mat product I am curious if this could also help with a ringing platter ? any thoughts?
Not sure it was advisable to ship to China, possibly any coating/s will be getting sampled and copied, soon.? 🧐 Just a thought, as it wouldn't be the first time. 😉
@@TheAudiophileMan I have a Flunace so all options are available. My scientific 'take it apart' mind asks "why do they make the deck base out of MDF but not the platter? An MDF platter would be pretty heavy - bigger motor yada yada i guess?
i wonder is dampening is more of a modern turntable problem i have 3 technics and 2 pioneers from the late 70's early 80"s and when i tap them with the a hard plastic handle of a screwdriver the don't ring at all but they also have this HEAVY rubber platter mats with out the mat they ring a little but NOTHING like the ones in this Video but they are made of heavy milled aluminum ( not thin or stamped ) I did end up with a friends Techplay turntable (it is trash overall) and has a VERY similar platter to the 2 in the video and it RINGS A LOT and the funny thing is it came with a felt mat (Worst possible option) and just putting an LP Gear rubber mat on it helped it still doesn't match the OG turntables but even my AT-LP60bt benefits from the rubber platter mat. I wonder why modern Manufacturers forgot what they used to do in the 80's and why they did it? Also i wonder if even my OG turntable would sound better with more dampening but like you said earlier too much of a good thing can be bad, i don't want them to sound lifeless or flat and if it is super hard to remove the metal strips i do want to damage or throw off the balance of my vintage platters experimenting with them
When I started my channel I did, yes. Doing interviews properly does take lots of prep and set up time, especially for industry figures. Not being a full time RUclipsr does get in the way. I’ll keep it in mind though. Things are always changing so you never know.
DynaMat.. Which is a sound damping material that has been in production for the car audio industry for many years..(Used inside car doors and on the insides of body panels) Works as well or even better than all of the versions mentioned in your video. And is readily available online. I cut templates out of thin card stock and then used a razor the cut my pieces to fit. The platter to my audio Technica LP120 now has almost zero resonance. When struck it now gives a solid "thud" sound. It's very inexpensive and works absolute wonders for getting rid of resonance. There are several companies that produce a similar product. But Dynamat is the originator.
It's a been year, but maybe you'll see this comment! I wasn't familiar with DynaMat, but it seems like a good solution. If you've used it before do you think there would be a big difference in putting the dynamat on the black undercoating vs stripping the undercoating and putting it on the aluminum directly for the LP140 shown in the video. Just trying to avoid modifying it more than I need to.
@@Keefster The Dynamat needs to go directly on metal to adhere properly and to work effectively
@@fk6823 Sounds good. And thanks again for the idea.
I did this on a couple of platters. However a better solution is is to pour an epoxy (eg gflex) into the base of the TT. The reason is that it is more difficult to keep the platter balanced. Dynamat can still be used on internal parts of the TT.
Brilliant. Just exactly what I needed if my Turntable Platter is suitable. The ringing is something I have been thinking about for some time. I didn't want to do it DIY style in case it didn't work. Thanks Paul, you and Soundeck are offering a valuable product/service.
Great video, Paul. I’ve rebuilt a Sansui SR222 MkII with a brand new, heavily damped plinth. This was a project born of nostalgia and made no financial sense whatsoever! The platter has a very smart acrylic mat and it now makes a very nice thunk when the struck when in place.
Given that I’ve already rewired the arm with silver litz wire, added high quality phono and mains sockets so I can use better cables for both and replaced the mains components with high quality alternatives, would I consider spending yet more on this turntable? Of course I will. 😄
Just to prove the level of insanity here, the cartridge is a Goldring G1042. And that’s your fault too. After watching your review of it, I replaced the Linn K9 that was on it previously. Sound fantastic now.
I just sprayed the underneath of my AT120LP platter with rubberized undercoating. Problem solved and a lot cheaper. 👍
I bought one a while back for my Technics 1210gr, very happy with the results and it looks good too. I’m talking of the soundeck platter mat not the damping.
I have a Pro-Ject turntable made of MDF and a quarter inch pure vinyl cemented to the top of the platter. there is absolutely no ringing when tapping the platter. Also, the sub platter uses magnets to isolate the main platter.
I wonder how this would work with a two part platter/sub-platter (a la Linn, Thorens etc) The parts are supposed to cancel ringing no? Thoughts Paul? Excellent detailed, entertaining and thorough review!
I HAVE USED SORBOTHANE MAT ON MY LP12 SINCE 1994 - THE BEST MAT EVER, I HAVE TRIED 4 DIFFERANT ONES, NONE BETTER...
I PURCHASED AN AUDIOQUEST SORBOTHANE MAT BACK IN 1994 FOR A LINN LP12 AND IT WAS SUCH A GREAT IMPROVEMENT, I TRIED MANY MATS - BUT THIS WAS THE BEST- BY FAR....
Hi Paul Thank you so much for this article having as previously stated I acquired the 120 to enable me to play 78 rpm records because the rega p3 has no such ability . From the very start I was very impressed with this deck considering it’s relatively low price , and began to wonder how it could be improved . I did get the appropriate head shell and 78 cartridge , but still felt a need to push its boundaries as they say. I had noticed the platers ringing ability so was wondering how to overcome come the problem , enter your good self with this simple solution at minimum cost . I did hear you mention about changing the cartridge to the VM 95 e which may deck came with , am I totally getting the wrong end of the stick as they say which is more than likely . If not is there a cartridge above the 95 which might just squeeze the last drop out of this rather fascinating deck . Yes I know it sounds all a bit daft , but in truth that pretty much sums me up anyway 🤣. Best wishes and kind regards as always 👍👍👍
I look forward to watchning this review, I have a Garrard Zero which uses two platters,(the idler version) I replaced the top platter and mat with a small acrylic type, noticable improvement, and now i need to damp the smaller sub platter which has no damping whatsoever
A Linn, any Linn would have been an interesting test for the SD treatment. For whatever reason, Linn dealers used the strike the outer platter as part of their sales pitch. Never heard any other platter ring as loud and as long as a Linn.
One update for a split platter, such as a Linn, is to apply SRM Tech Tripod platter isolation. I can confirm that it does what is claimed of it. I also use SRM Tech Platter Isolator on my Nottingham Analogue type TT. It has a 7Kg solid platter.
100% getting this upgrade for my AP 120X. The isolation feet look like an option too
I had an original AT 120LP years ago, best solution was to use a thick Technics 1200 rubber mat on the platter which stopped the ringing
Not a fan of the basic cheapo rubber type you see on budget decks, including this one. They tend to bounce vibration back rather than damp or drain it. They make things worse, not better. Butyl’s a better rubber for mats but it’s more expensive.
Hi and thanks for your reviews, damping looks very efficient. Why do they need a photo ? The turntable reference should be enough, right? A blind test with a friend exchanging the platters and you listening would have been great too.
I use my ears for testing. That’s what I do. As for your first point? Two things. Firstly, never assume. Things in design can change. ‘Never assume’ is actually a good piece of general life advice. Secondly, Soundeck doesn’t own a detailed turntable database. As I’ve said in the video, Soundeck derives from a heavy industry steel company. Soundeck is a pet project of the MD.
Looks like a really worthwhile upgrade, and fairly reasonable to boot. I have an AT 140 and am wondering how it would work on the AT 140…..would the damping attach to the rubber that’s already there or would you need to remove that rubber damping first?
That's a question for Soundeck - my guess is the plates would go over the top but that would be up to Soundeck.
@@TheAudiophileMan Thanks, Paul. Surprising how much the 140 rang, even with the rubber damping. That was an eye(or should I see ear!) opener.
How would a Soundeck damped platter compare to the Pro-Ject Acrylic platter?
Interesting looking product. I have an old Technics SL1300 mkI - the platter very much rings like a bell when struck - it would be nice if it didn't! My only worry with this product is the possibility of unbalancing the platter? If you don't stick the pieces down absolutely precisely could it be enough to cause some uneven weight distribution. Possibly not an issue at all but something that crossed my mind.
The copy has your back on that one and should provide you with a plan to avoid that.
@@TheAudiophileMan Regrettably after consulting with them it was deemed my platter wasn't suitable for this particular product. Considering their platter mat instead now.
What is putting enough energy into the platter to make it ring?
Everything, Tom. The motion of the platter, the bearing under the platter, the motion of the tonearm, the bearing under that, the turntable's motor, the incredible forces emanating from the crashing stylus in the vinyl groove, the vibration underneath your turntable from the other hifi components, your floor, RF interference...you name it.
just an observation. After attaching the dampening steel, the ringing should be tested not by hitting the steel, but anywhere else. this because any vibration on a turntable does not originate from random objects hitting the platter from below.
True Ivo - the vibration does originate elsewhere. Although that does make for a less effective video demo :) Also, I still feel there is a relevancy here because it shows how easily vibration passes through the platter in the first place (no matter where the vibration originated) and finally, the direct comparison between the undamped and damped platters shows how much the vibration is restricted and effectively killed, even if the platter is hit directly (a 'worst case' scenario, lets say).
Thank you so much for this review! I haven't heard of this and I thought that I had heard of everything. Ha. I appreciate it. It doesn't seem like too much cost either for the custom service. Awesome 👍
Great video. Is this magnetic? Thank you.
Good video, I will try this product. Does anyone know if the pattern for these audio technica platters would be the same on my lp5x ? Thanks
The only way to determine if some platter dampening method really works would be to test the actual output with something like an oscilloscope. Listening is simply too subjective to be of any real meaning unless the sound difference was profound, which I seriously doubt. Striking a platter and making it ring seems to me to be completely irrelevant to how it works when in actual use on the turntable. There is nothing striking the platter when in use to make it vibrate or ring in such a manner. And it's affixed to the turntable itself which is going to have a dampening effect. Thats the reason for the heavy plinth base and isolation feet.
This is the future, isn’t it?
“Robot X? Tell me if it’s raining outside.”
“But master, if you step outside you will feel the rain on your face, see the lightning and hear the thunder!”
“Bollocks Robot X! All of that is just your brain fooling you into thinking that weather is happening. Give me a measurement to six decimal places otherwise I’m not putting my coat on.”
You brain is far more complex and sophisticated than any oscilloscope. The problem is, most people underuse that tool. And it's the brain, not the ears. The ears are a processing tool for the brain to ‘hear’.
But look, forgive me :) To answer your point.
Firstly, re. the science bit. Turntables work on a micro level. They are being ‘hit’ in a thousand different ways every time you play a record. Any - any - micro vibration will then turn - through microphony - into detail veiling high-frequency noise. That is, vibration is turned into an electrical signal. And that harms sound quality.
Secondly? Of course this review’s subjective. I spend half my time on this channel explaining that my reviews are subjective. Mainly because our ears/brain processes music in a wholly subjective fashion based *completely on personal bias*.
I’ve been in the HiFi industry for many years and worked under editors who use measurements, listening panels, blind testing et al, I have zero trust in their abilities to solely tell the entire story of 'sound'. They are - I must emphasise after that rant - immensely helpful as a secondary, an adjunct, to a review but that's it. I know lots of people disagree with me - and I guess you will be one of those - but that's my view.
If you trust me as a critic then great and I talk about that very thing here: ruclips.net/video/-NWuE-1yFJ8/видео.html
Anyone who has an issue with my comments here should view that video first before shouting at me :)
If you don't trust me as a critic then find another. And I don't say that out of nastiness or malice or bitterness. Again, I advise this in the video above. You need to filter trusted critics. It’s one of the responsibilities you have as a potential customer.
When selecting HiFi, I use my ears (brain). Ultimately, when if comes right down to it? So should you.
@@TheAudiophileMan yes but somethings are measurable with instruments. If there are some sort of distortion, or aberrant noise and similar you could certainly measure it. Wow and flutter is something that is measured isn’t it? Total harmonic distortion? So if a manufacturer of something like acrylic platters wants to prove that they are actually better then where are the measurements? If they don’t want to show them then I’m suspicious that’s there is truly any difference. There is a heck of a lot of snake oil in the audio industry. Obviously. What about the ridiculously overpriced cables? Or the ridiculous idea that copper cables sound warm and silver sounds cold? I have read reviews with people, claiming the headphones sounded so much better, base so much more impactful, so much warmer or so much detail or whatever. All because they bought a $2k for long cable to replace the manufacturer supplied cable. It’s absurd. It’s not possible. But apparently people want to believe that. And manufacturers are more than happy to sell expensive crap to them that they don’t need.
And yes while the important part is in the listening, sound can be measured. Because I think if you cannot establish some sort of standards by scientific measurements, then just anything goes. So yeah, I’m a skeptic until you can actually prove it to me. And I don’t trust my listening. And I especially don’t trust mini review reviews on RUclips because they are obviously old, like me, the hearing has degraded. You can’t help it. That’s mother nature.
OK, last blast :)
Firstly? Couldn't care less how it measures, as long as it sounds good and I'm having a good time. That's all that matters. That's it. I don't buy HiFi for the sake of it or because to measures well. I buy it to listen to music. That's my priority. If a silver box does that job and my brain gives it a thumbs up, that's all I care about.
And you shouldn't worry about it either. Also be aware that there's a lot of people out there making lots of money off the back of spouting lots of science in terms of sound. I know because I've worked for lots of them. And good luck to them, if that's their bag. But that ain't for me.
Frankly? I don't need to prove anything. You're here to listen to my opinion. For good or ill. That's all it is.
In reviewing terms? I'm 'at it' every day (ahem) and like anyone who practices at anything for long enough, I'm good at my job.
But hey, look, check out that video link - this channel is but one mere element in the research you need to do before buying HiFi. Don't let me tell you what to do, just consider/dump what I say and do more research.
Also, on a tangent, it's well known that there's a host of HiFi kit out there (and I've spoken to the engineers of said products and other HiFi magazine editors who agree) that measure badly and sound wonderful. And I can confirm that too.
And I can hear wow and flutter. Don't need no box to tell me that Sinatra has had a bourbon too many...
As I say, measurements can be useful. I use them in my reviews. But I don't let them form/dominate my buying decision. I buy music for me to listen to. I don't buy it to put a smile on a measuring box.
Right, that's me done on this debate. I think you have an idea where I'm at on this subject.
You're welcome to keep posting but I have to be fair to others (others here, my website, Facebook Group, Patreon, Twitter, etc so lots of questions to answer and there's only so many hours, etc, etc).
Would there be such an improvement on a mdf platter such as on my See Revolver or the glass platter on my Systemdek XII 900? Would the SRM Tec acrylic platter for the Systemdek be the better option in your opinion?
I much prefer acrylic to glass, yes Tony. If that’s an upgrade option for you then sure, go for that.
Off topic, given the latest controversy over zerodust ( maybe all similar products) stylus gel, I'd love to hear yoour suggestions on stylus cleaning.
Love the channel.
Have an in depth buyer’s guide of that very thing on my Patreon, right now. (Hint, Hint :) )
@@TheAudiophileMan I'm such a 'phobe' I will honestly look at Pateron. ty for relying.
I always learn from you and my system definitely sounds better thank you
I am just a bit curious I have a old Rotel rp830 I am currently using a ortophon 2m blue planning to up grade to a black do you think my table would benefit sonically from the under platter dampining and the platter mat together or would the mat be enough this table was actually built by Micro-Seki who was Rotels parent company at the time thanks.
I've never looked under the platter of that one - are we talking bare aluminium there? If so, sure. Also, does it use a cheap rubber mat? If so, I'd recommend an upgrade there too.
@@TheAudiophileMan so the mat looks like the audio quest mat its really pretty decent considering actually the mat looks exactly like the steel one.
I never play records on a free hanging platter. With felt mat on top of the platter my L-3808 doesn´t ring...
Yes it does. On a micro level. And that's all it takes because your stylus also works on a micro level. My test was done to accentuate the ringing so you could hear it in the video. A felt mat will help to some extent to damp vibration on your turntable. To some extent only, though.
There is an American product called Boom Mat its primary purpose is sound deadening in automobiles it comes in the form of tape, spray and an actual mat product I am curious if this could also help with a ringing platter ? any thoughts?
New to me, Jon - thanks for the tip. I'll have a look.
My old Technics 1600mk2 has rubber coating under platter
So where do we go for the sound damp pieces for the Atlp120 usb
Look in the Description - contacts are there.
Not sure it was advisable to ship to China, possibly any coating/s will be getting sampled and copied, soon.? 🧐 Just a thought, as it wouldn't be the first time. 😉
thank you Paul, I enjoyed your convincing demonstration very much, as always actually. Soundeck eh...
Fantastic info. thanks so much
Is it better value than an £150 Acrylic platter replacement?
No but the damping service is also a fifth of that price. And not all decks even have that option.
@@TheAudiophileMan I have a Flunace so all options are available.
My scientific 'take it apart' mind asks "why do they make the deck base out of MDF but not the platter?
An MDF platter would be pretty heavy - bigger motor yada yada i guess?
Great review!
Going to order one. Thanks
i wonder is dampening is more of a modern turntable problem i have 3 technics and 2 pioneers from the late 70's early 80"s and when i tap them with the a hard plastic handle of a screwdriver the don't ring at all but they also have this HEAVY rubber platter mats with out the mat they ring a little but NOTHING like the ones in this Video but they are made of heavy milled aluminum ( not thin or stamped ) I did end up with a friends Techplay turntable (it is trash overall) and has a VERY similar platter to the 2 in the video and it RINGS A LOT and the funny thing is it came with a felt mat (Worst possible option) and just putting an LP Gear rubber mat on it helped it still doesn't match the OG turntables but even my AT-LP60bt benefits from the rubber platter mat. I wonder why modern Manufacturers forgot what they used to do in the 80's and why they did it? Also i wonder if even my OG turntable would sound better with more dampening but like you said earlier too much of a good thing can be bad, i don't want them to sound lifeless or flat and if it is super hard to remove the metal strips i do want to damage or throw off the balance of my vintage platters experimenting with them
Well done Les
Would have been interesting to see or rather hear the glass platter from a Rega in the test
Along with 25 other turntables I can think of but this video was primarily a review for Soundeck. The strike tests were a quick bonus.
What about Platters made from MDF and coated in rubber or rubber-like material. That would have to be better than all these resonant metal platters.
Thanks for a very informative video.
Glad you liked it, Graham.
Have you ever considered interviewing guests with interesting audio experience? Les Thompson would be great.
When I started my channel I did, yes. Doing interviews properly does take lots of prep and set up time, especially for industry figures. Not being a full time RUclipsr does get in the way. I’ll keep it in mind though. Things are always changing so you never know.
Some people will buy anything.
17:08 - Ommmmmm....
Damp the Platter, full speed ahead...
Hehe
Owners of sl1200 gr and sl1200 G need not apply.
I got one on my gr, but wouldn’t if it were a g as they have a brass mat anyway.