This is the most BOMBER way to Build in the South
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- Опубликовано: 15 янв 2024
- Matt talks about some of the products from POLYGUARD in his latest project.
Clearbond
polyguard.com/residential/pro...
650WB
polyguard.com/residential/pro...
UV2-40
polyguard.com/residential/pro...
Blue Barrier GF
polyguard.com/residential/pro...
Blue Barrier LF
polyguard.com/residential/pro...
WUFI Model
polyguard.com/architectural/b...
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I wont be alive that long to reap the reward, and people aren't going to pay more for your house because it's got this product.
Maybe… but if your homeowner or even 2nd/3rd homeowner has a leak years later YOU as the Builder will bear responsibility. I’ll pay more any day to reduce my liability and this product does just that!
@buildshow agreed Matt. And I disagree that people won't pay more for high performance assemblies. Plenty of buyers want a home that is comfortable, efficient and durable.
@@jwristen24 I would definitely pay more for a high performance house. We are trying to decide whether to remodel our current 100+ farm house or new build on another piece of property we own, either way I hope we can afford Matt when the time comes.
This product and these building techniques aren't made for the proletariat.
UK here: houses are EXPECTED to last at least 100 years, anything else would be considered unfit for purpose. No one here is going to want to buy somewhere they think will fall apart in 50 years, they'd consider the builder used substandard materials.
My Victorian era (1930s) house is the mostly the same structure as originally built, just doors and windows replaced with newer ones. Mind you, our houses are mostly brick not wood.
Someone’s jamming the Pinocchio/Elmo Button on Matt’s voice a few too many times in this intro! 🤣
Happens to the best of us
😂
Puberty ?
Could be Pinocchio nose growing and touching his taint every time matt tells a lie.
Our little boy is growing up.
"YT" voice is annoying af
Large roof overhangs add beauty to the design of homes and provide protection for doors, windows and siding. Too many homes these days have small overhangs. Minimum 2 to 3 foot overhangs add so much water protection.
Try that in a hurricane.
@@Krunch2020 Hurricanes happen once every 5 years. Rains happen weekly.
Usually should be based on the sun angle for particular location.
I'd like a cabin with wraparound screened porches. Water and sun would not hit most exterior walls.
Great selling points, Matt. HOWEVER, I don't think the home owner will thank you for not disclosing the problems of that foil product. My custom home with foil-covered OSB, plus low-E windows meant that cell phone service failed for phones indoors. Friends and family had to connect to my WiFi and use 'WiFi Calling' setting to use their phones. My WiFi signal would not extend more than 20 feet on the outside. That foil was not nearly as thick as what I see in this video.
That’s a feature not a bug. Will help keep you safe from the Chinese EMP attack too
Can fix that by installing a cell phone signal booster. But good for pointing out that issue!
@@notreal5311no point with WiFi calling, plus depending on your cellular plan, it might cost less for using the WiFi to make calls. Google Fi service was built around using WiFi and some plans pro-rated your costs, especially data, based on that. Granted that becomes more important when going overseas, but Fi calls over the local cell network is still only 20¢/min outside the US.
If you want your house to last a 100 years, don’t buy a tract house from mass production builders.
Metal and stone.
Giza Pyramids bro.
Great video! I was just installing this very product a few days ago and it’s phenomenal. Primer is definitely the key, especially with ICF. Thanks for introducing me to Poly-Wall six years ago!
Awesome! Glad to hear you’ve used the Build Show to Build Better!
Why use it on ICF?
Not that I could ever afford it, but I like ICF walls & roof with framing within so the insulation doesn’t get cut. A house that is basically an encasement of concrete with a minimum of 5” cc foam on the walls & 6-14” of cc foam on the ceiling makes it insanely strong & well insulated.
Many ICF homes use SIP panels or framing for the roof, not concrete. Where money isn't a constraint, precast concrete or concrete poured over metal decking for a flat (or low-slope single-slope) roof makes an ICF home into a bunker! Concrete deck roofing is one of the most expensive roof options, rare even for commercial (e.g., most flat roofs don't use concrete). SIP panels provide a lot of the benefits equal to ICF minus the bunker strength and higher cost.
@@MadGunner Yeah I have seen that too, I really like LiteDeck for the roof over Spancrete ype options.
I can't afford either option so it's all just a dream for me though lol
@Matt Risinger Could you consider doing a series of these every few years that covers all the climate zones? I'm up in 6 in NH so naturally our condensing point is reversed. Would give you content for a few weeks just reviewing the state of technology for climate 1-3A, 4-5, 6. I'd skip higher unless you have a lot of canadian viewers.
Flat roofs are future leaky roofs. Even a small low pitch is better than a flat roof.
Awesome video, very informative info!
Matt I’m currently planning to build my own house slowly. One of the few things I plan on hiring out is framing. I’d like to have it framed and then come back myself and put this on to give me weather protection from the sun and rain while I take my time doing the rest. I live in an alpine desert at 8000’ in Colorado (off grid too). I plan on doing 1-2” of exterior insulation over this. Even though I’m in zone 6b couldn’t I use this? I actually WANT more humidity. I’m thinking of running a ERV to actually try to bring in humidity from outside. My house now typically sits at 20-25% humidity with the outside around 50%
Thoughts?
Remember folks this is a paid advertisement. You are watching a infomercial.
Yup. Also, surprised he's allowed to show non Zip houses.
His zip advertisement agreement must be over
Exactly! Especially when he promoted Uponor flex. "Brought to by Uponor!"
That doesn't make the information any less useful.
At the very beginning i was wondering why he sounded SOO different.
UV-240, thanks a lot! The second I heard that all I had going through my mind was that song Red Red Wine by UB40 LOL
It's ICF or nothing for me.
Thanks matt im gonna try it out thanks brother
Awesome! Thanks for your support
I found multiple websites saying EPS foam is much better for below-grade insulation than XPS foam. Allegedly a 15 year study by twin cities research installed both types on a foundation in St. Paul. When they dug up both, they found the EPS had 4.7% moisture, while XPS had over 20%. That Significantly reduced the performance of the XPS. Many websites reporting this, but I couldn't find the study itself.
Curious what you might suggest for a house up north in Michigan? Have some Forcefield sheathing that has been exposed to UV too long, but is in good condition, just maybe needs a new WRB installed before siding. Any thoughts? Was thinking maybe some Henry Blueskin?
I’m planning on building a cinder block house and adu. Any chance you could make a video on it.
How does this work with Hawaii? Where we have humidity, but we don’t use AC. We keep the windows open and use fans. But we do have 150” of rain that comes down like huge tropical storms/hurricanes.
I custom ordered these Polyguard products and freight shipped them out. They sent me water based, but w our humidity I wish they would have recommended clear bond. Along with a Santa Fe dehumidifier for the rainy days, windows closed.
We have 3’ eaves with the trusses coming through.
Matt looking like an OG with those sunglasses! Wha Wha?! Lol
Issue is, 90% of us arent building new, we are buying used, maybe 3rd, 4th or 7th owner. Not much you can do at that point but fix things wrong. So with that, then blame every damn builder that pushes profit over quality
To help with the CO2 problem, govts should subsidise wood for house building, so that more and thicker wood is used.
:-) I was thinking more about 2x6 external walls and thick OSB for sheathing, to start with - just make it a law. I want to cry when I see something that looks like cardboard used for sheathing. @@Navy1977
At some point I would like to see a discussion that interrogates, rather than just assumes, that a 100+ year house is a good goal for builders.
I have a 50-year old house now. It held up fairly well over that period, and it's still functional, but there are so many things that the builder wasn't really thinking about or didn't even really have a concept for, to the point that now the smart thing for me is to tear out half of it and build out a structure that is better architected for the space, that takes advantage of things like advancements in HVAC, that anticipates climate changes and the growth explosion of the city around us, and in general sets us up better for life choices we anticipate in the next 20-30 years.
Do I blame the original builder for not being forward-thinking? No, that would be silly. It's just that there are large cycles of technology improvements, design innovations, and other big shifts in the neighborhoods around us, all of which lead to a situation where something that made sense 50 years ago just doesn't fit the current context.
I think it might be smarter to lean into this rather than plugging away for an obsolete durability. In other words, emphasize building approaches and products which facilitate adaptability - remodelability, and even re-buildability.
I don't want a home that's just going to be there in 100 years. I want someone to be able to live well on this piece of land in 100 years, which I expect could (and probably should) involve a few significant renovations over that period as new technologies and new ways of living come on line, things we haven't anticipated yet. Let's have the humility to recognize that what we're trying to build today may no longer be relevant 100 years from now.
Goofy 🤪
I love wood too, but I would like to try a house out of ICF
I used it on an ICF house and on a 20' x 30' ICF subterranean structure build into a hillside with a foot of dirt on top. the aluminum adds the extra little bit or protection. We also put dimple board on top for a belt and suspenders approach as well.
@@Navy1977 We used a Low VOC product called Sta-PUT which comes in a tank and lasts forver. We use that on foam ICF. For a 50x20 ICF shelter that we built into a hillside, we used the Low VOC on the foam itself and then the regular on the concrete. Via Matt, we've been using Polyguard/Polywall for years and followed his bomber footing drain videos to the T. With the Delta dimple board on vertical walls and on the horizontal surfaces (structures buried into a hillside) we get water coming out of our triple perimeter drains 24x7, 365 - so it works ike a champ. If you need help or a walk-though, say the word. Matt's video have helped us build some monster houses (14,000 sqft+) and we love sharing what we've learned from Matt to help more builders up their game.
Hope that helps (and if you're in the navy [your SN] - thanks for your service).
@@Navy1977 yeah, we researched ICF for years and went with Build Block because of the dimensions, sturdy strips every 6 inches, tight interlocking so no seepage, etc. I’ll post pictures of the current one that we’re working on when it’s done. We are currently grinding about 8000 ft.² of polished concrete floors as well for it
Need a follow-on short video where you build a box out of this material and then test cell phone reception inside to quiet the comment section 😂
For the cost of the aluminum sheet, might as well upgrade to ICF. Better insulation, better for thermal mass, etc
Engineered lumber is awesome, & straight! but super $$$$. Crappy building materials adds to movement, decay, and durability issues.
100 years? I'd be grateful if my house lasted just another week 😅
Lol 😂 😂 😂
I'm building a new house in Northern Cali (Sonoma) and have Zip-R over plywood (the Zip-R wouldn't meet shear requirements alone). I need a radiant barrier on the South side. Can I use this product over the Zip-R? I'm a Mechanical Engineer and love your videos!
Yes, this product will work over Zip, but a better alternative is exterior foil-faced foam board insulation as Zip already provides your WRB.
But how long would that last without siding? The PolyGuard lasts 2 years +@@MadGunner
@user-fe4kp6gp8z Ah, I didn't catch you were looking for long term UV protection. Zip is good for about three months. If you need longer, any UV protective product should suffice, to include painting the ZIP panels. Peel and stick UV240 runs about $1.50 per sq ft. There are alternatives if you just want UV protection. But, if you can afford it, and prefer a vapor barrier, then UV240 can be installed on top of ZIP.
Keep in mind, ZIP allows drying to the outside, but UV240 does not.
I see they are literally glueing in that window - so how can it be replaced 25 years later? You might say "only the grass will be replaced", but what if it starts leaking in a corner?
I’d rather use Zip system vs this product. Easier installation
Once you pay attention to the unusual high notes he hits in the first 2 minutes of the video, you won't be able to un-hear it 😂 I've been watching Matt for years but for some reason his high notes hit different in this video 😂
Puberty on my 50’s???😂
@@buildshow 😂😂😂😂 possibly 😁
will this work in the northwest lap siding and stone?
Can you use this over zip (versus osb) or is that overkill?
Overkill. Zip sheathing provides a WRB when used with Zip tape or liquid flashing over the edges. If you want to add a layer of radiant to your Zip wall and/or roof assembly, you can purchase heavy-duty foil wraps for lower cost than the Poly product. Better combo for Zip is to use foil-faced exterior foam board insulation! The Poly product is intended to provide air/vapor sealing, WRB and Radiant, and is priced as such. If you just need radiant, there are lower cost foil options. Remember - the foil needs an air gap between the reflective surface and exterior cladding if you're trying to keep heat out, best to use furring strips or other standoffs to attach the cladding.
@matt what rainscreen material would you recommend over that?
I would run furring strips
I often use a mesh rainscreen over this material
Does not sealing bottom of window cause air leaak?
No, the edges are sealed from the inside and you do seal the bottom of the window from the inside.
Would this be a better option than the Zip system for southern Alabama?
Better is subjective. Compare cost of Zip panels with tape and liquid flashing versus OSB with UV240. The Polywall web site shows UV240 is $1.50 per square foot. There are low cost foil options to include exterior foil-faced foam board insulation that can be added to Zip if you want the radiant feature.
@@MadGunner Wasn’t concerned with the radiant feature as much as the air and water barrier system like Zip…but now you’ve got me thinking about a radiant feature…
Can you use this product with closed-cell foam on the inside walls, where there are then effectively two different air-tight seals - UV240 on the exterior face of the wall, and closed cell foam on the inside face of the wall? No issues with wood and other materials sandwiched between two different air-tight seals, with no venting of that internal wall space?
One of the warnings that people give on the over-application of closed cell foam is that it blocks drying. I personally think that every surface needs to be able to dry in at least one direction. I would be very cautious about having large volumes that are completely sealed from being able to dry - any moisture that manages to get in there thru a small entry (and liquid moisture loves to wick in thru even the smallest entry) might end up trapped in there and damage the materials.
Does this also perform as a radiant barrier?
most definitely, as long as their is an air gap between it and the exterior wall.
Hey Matt, so this wouldnt be a good product for East Tennessee?
Serious question. Why is this better than blue barrier?
Two very different products. I use this most often because of the 2 year UV exposure rating. My custom homes usually are complicated and are left exposed a long time. Blue Barrier needs covered in 9 months. I also like the easy installation on a peel & stick membrane.
At this point you might as well build homes out of cinder blocks, instead of supporting all of these brands
What point of having UV protection that won't see any sun after a few weeks? I see many of the "new tech" products only increase construction costs without bringing enough of additional value over cheaper "old tech".
I often have my homes left in this state for many months or 1year plus. Complicated custom builds in my area regularly take 2 years to complete
Horses for courses.
It may take a long time to wrap the building with the final cladding (exterior cover for the walls and/or roof, such as masonry or metal). The sun significantly damages many materials, such as Tyvek. Tyvek is only rated for 120 days.
Micky Mouse Matt in this video, now i can see how you can pitch your voice for the outrow.
Sad to say, but actually the majority of all houses built 100 years ago that we’re taken care of are still standing today. And can easily stand for another 200 to 400 years.
If you look around the world house is built out of wood 300, 400 700 years old as long as they never had water intrusion and the roofs were kept up and no water was allowed to get in around windows or door seals those very same houses with that very same wood are still standing today .
Very basic simple technology built them back then with synthetic man-made materials
No, it’s just that we degraded our knowledge and want to kick out a fast house, low quality high profits
Look at heavy, felt tarp used in houses over 100 years ago . As long as it didn’t get wet, it’s still in perfect condition..
What synthetic vapor barrier membrane has a guarantee of of 100 years 🤣
There is survivorship bias there. I can only see the felt paper in the houses still standing.
There is survivorship bias there. I can only see the felt paper in the houses still standing.
There is survivorship bias there. I can only see the felt paper in the houses still standing.
There is survivorship bias there. I can only see the felt paper in the houses still standing.
@@benthompson8683 all the houses in the San Francisco Bay area built since the late 1800s and early 1900s are still standing unless they had a fire. 🔥
Or somebody wanted to tear them down to make a McMansion .
I own three of them . I grew up in these houses, so did my mom and my grandparents and my grandchildren.
We are still remodeling these houses to this date . And if the shell is not getting stripped off, you just leave the paper there because it’s in perfect condition. Tape the seams, and make it airtight to seal up the envelope.. before closing up the walls again.
Of course, we cannot go back to Old fed Paper because it was made with a petroleum product . but it sure worked good for an entire century and longer
How much does this stuff cost per roll?
Costs don’t matter on the Build Show.
@@Kissypoohlifecycle costs matter more.
Polyguard web site shows ~$1.50 per sq ft for UV240. 36-inches by 33-foot rolls are $153.
What about for CBS homes?
Looks like the installer in the background missed some spots with the primer.
Why does Matt use crappy OSB on expensive homes?
Preach
Again, horses for courses.
Build $cience in action I see. Don’t build out of stone or icf, buy our product so you can still use osb.
Is he doing a Tucker Carlson impression 😂
the only possible issue I could see with this assembly is longevity....how bomber is that primer/adhesive? and will it last?
Water, water, WATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
• When you have this CONDUCTIVE aluminum sheathing over the entire structure, how do you ELECTRICALLY GROUND this aluminum sheathing?
• If you have this CONDUCTIVE aluminum sheathing and you have a LOSS OF ELECTRICAL GROUNDING (or NEVER HAD IT to begin with), how do you prevent this NONELECTRICAL aluminum sheath from carrying NEUTRAL RETURN CURRENT and igniting the wood?
We don’t commonly ground metal roofs . . .
Bomber?
Can’t seem to find pricing online. Ballpark price per sq.ft or roll?
$$$
They have a web store and will ship to you.
DON'T! it's blocking wifi, cell phone, tv signal.... and whatever you emit from inside the house is bouncing back to you
In theory yes, but I’ve yet to hear anyone complain of that potential faraday cage effect…
@@johnwhite2576 - @VanillaIceCoffee is correct. My last house was custom and the builder used foil-sided OSB, on all walls and even the roof. The selling point was that it would reflect heat. In reality, anybody standing in the house got zero cell service, unless they connected to my WiFi. And my WiFi would not go more than 20 feet beyond the house perimeter. My TV antenna was outside on the roof - so no problems with that.
My customers haven’t complained about that
Good. I don’t need all these signals coming in and I don’t want my signal going out. You can always add a wired external access point and cellphone signal booster.
Use WiFi calling and cut your cell phone costs accordingly. Forget the expensive cell repeater.
can I just wrap my entire house in Polyguard ?? this week the particle board floors in my 81' mobile home gave out right before freezing temps set in in south Texas. Unfortunately causing me to lose a few water lines again.. Not nearly as bad as 2 years ago when All my copper pipes busted and I replaced all the lines under the house.. I'm just sitting in a icebox right now trying to figure out an order of operations and financing .. all I wanted to do this winter is cut my grass so much for that lol
I cannot get over the micky mouse voice on the tail end of sentences
I find some people comments are so funny. Bottom line: just a bunch of jealous people.
Matt just basically introduces a nice products (educational purpose only) that might help you guys later in the future whether or not you use those products in construction.
You don’t have to use these products if you don’t want to. Again you pay for what you get.
TOO MANY OF YOU COMMENTERS NEED TO GET A DANG GRIP!!!
WATCH THE VIDEO AND L E A R N ! ! !
TOO MANY GUYS IN THE TRADES STOP LEARNING AS A HELPER, AND KNOW IT ALL SOON AFTER THEY GET THE FULL PAY CHECK.
Ive never seen Matt using this oroduct, he's always using ZIP sheathing. So why is he saying he "always uses this"??
He's been using it awhile (6 years of sponsorship), but with lower frequency than Huber products.
Infomercial.
Matt's voice is extra squeaky in this video!
Well, my house isn't dry because the solar company that installed the panels on my roof screwed up and made 1000 holes. Now my ceilings leak and they won't take responsibility for the damages! 🤬
Any time you want to come help me out, Matt...
Yeah solar on the roof is not a good idea
Have wondered if there is a leak PROOF solution to solar panels, maybe not on the install but future repairs. Am on the Wet Coast of Canada where it rains a lot and as stated that water understands how to get in EVERYWHERE
@@snowgorilla9789 Only solution is to not get them at all, or get that large array put into your yard at a lower height which takes up yard space, and run the cabling underground to the house. You might have to take out some trees (expensive) so the panels can actually get sun exposure to be effective. They're just a huge hassle, an eyesore, and a scam.
@@JM-nd3ps My understanding is that for example on a standing-seam metal roof, there are solar panel installations that use clamps on the seams and don't require any penetration.
(Composite roof? Haven't you already signed-up for trouble with a composite roof?)
Ha ha. Millions of solar installations and a few problems. Yep.
Build with steel and stone if you want to hand a house down for generations. Leave the wood for the inside
Probably no cell service in that house.
😂 😂 😆
Wtf is the Mickey mouse voice he’s doing.
My jeans were too tight that day 😮
Either he has a teenage daughter, watches too much TikTok, or he’s been in Austin too long… saying “bomber” at his age so many times doesn’t make any sense
Is Matt going through puberty? Did he lose a bet?
First
Doesn't matter if your house will last 100 years, you wont be able to insure it because your former insurance company wont take the risk on a house that still has 75 years of life.
Lol, 100 yrs, you have no idea if all those chemical adhesives will be working then, that are on all these products you use.
Is it me or is matt going through pubertiy again
😂😂😂😂
40mm = 4cm thick ... that's 1.5748 inches thick.
Doubt it's that thick.
40 mil = 0.04 inches (40 mil is not mm)
@@MadGunner Ah ok, well for a EU metric person, "mil" is short for millimeters: mm.
That's why ^^
Thanks for clarification ;p