A tip that works for most 18V power tool battery formats: I buy the cheapest tool available for the system which is usually a torch and repurpose it in conjunction with kit intended for car or boat electrical systems to make all kinds of power supplies and battery operated instruments. USB power outlets for cars very often have buck converters with input ranges spanning below 12V to above 24V to cover both car and truck electrical systems so they are fine at 18V nominal from the battery. If you need exactly 12V, you can get very inexpensive buck converter modules intended for dropping 24V truck electrics to 12V. I've made the following for my CEL PowerHandle batteries: - A box breaking out a power tool battery to two 'cigarette lighter' type car sockets and two XLR microphone sockets. The former can accept a fused 12V car plug or little self contained USB power converters that are contained within the socket. The benefit of this is you can quickly switch between different USB power standards (PD, Qualcomm, Apple etc.). The XLR sockets take gooseneck LED lights made for musicians which are designed to take parasitic power from an active microphone socket, but work fine off 12V. - A high specification laboratory power supply covering voltage range 1-50V, current range 0-5A. This is based on a low-cost Chinese buck-boost module built into a custom case with the battery shoe adapted from a torch tool mounted on the base. I also fitted an auxiliary XT60 (drone battery) plug which allows a cable connection to an old ATX mains computer PSU for bench-top use. - The CEL system does not include a woodworking router and I did not want to have a second set of batteries. I bought a Makita router and a cheep, low capacity clone battery. I removed the cells and used the battery shell to connect the router via a short heavy-duty cable to a CEL battery shoe made from a torch as before. It works nicely and reduces the number of batteries I need to manage. If I had any talent for movie making I'd do some RUclips videos, but instead I offer the idea to any EE RUclipsr who is interested in taking it up!
@@fredflintstone1 - Magic? Oh what do you mean? Don't you have those knives in your country yet? Though I have seen doctors put them in people's mouths... hmmm...
I've been wanting to make one for Dewalt 20V MAX batteries for powering TS-100 soldering irons. I'd also give it a couple USB-C ports for recharging devices. I'm gradually making my devices more and more complex.
My local Lidl had a load of 2AH 22v Parkside batteries for £7-50 each. I snapped up as many as I could afford for a battery bank project. Now the lucky owner of 90 new Samsung 18650 cells.
I bought a cheap mechanical adapter for Makita and Bosch batteries from AliExpress and soldered on some wires with a XT60 connector, to power my TS100 from a 18V/20V powertool battery.
Actually the buck converter enable pin doesn't go to that via directly (6:55) but to the 100k resistor above the "M". Hard to see but I think it then goes from that pad to the resistor to its left (top) then down through that resistor to the via you mentioned. Looks like a resistor divider. But in the end it still goes to the micro controller.
It would be interesting to figure out if these 2 devices, battery and light, can communicate with each other in order not to let the battery over discharge itself beyond repair, or in other words, be able to charge the battery back up again. I have one of these batteries that for some reason it discharge itself in such a way that I wasn’t able to charge it back up again.
Hi Julian, I read somewhere that using this unit could over discharge your cells if not careful since the discharge limit is built into the handtool not the battery, do you know if this is correct.
I wanted to see inside but i don't want to break it. So thanks for that video. I wander if i can put a dc jack to output the unconverted battery voltage
I'm wondering if it is actually reading and shutting down with the high USB and light current as at 9:59. Or if it is reading the USB current and using a lower current limit if the LED is on. If you unsoldered the LED you could put it in and out of circuit without the MCU knowing. I'm just wondering because the LED is on the complete opposite side as the USB's current measuring resistors.
The funny thing is a 12V socket for a USB charger would be much smarter as the USB car chargers are usually 24V tolerant and have their own charge protocoll. This won't charge at 1A+ as it does only 5V and no charge protocol like Qualcomm quick charge .... Lidl why? :-/
What, you want it to light up your face instead of your feet? Yeah, if the light is in use, pretty useless, but fine if you want the USB or are hanging it for storage/transport/etc.
@@robroysyd Yeah, those USB lights would be pointless with the belt clip. I have some PCB style ones, which have the capacitive touch dimmer/on/off feature on the back, which can be plugged in either way, so there are certainly better options ;)
Have one of them in use for a year or two - unfortunately it drains the battery if it's left connected for months... Not ideal, not not the end of the world
Two toggle switches and just a single buck for USB would have been cheaper and easier to operate.. This will drain slowly the battery and is overcomplicated for home use aye :-/
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A tip that works for most 18V power tool battery formats: I buy the cheapest tool available for the system which is usually a torch and repurpose it in conjunction with kit intended for car or boat electrical systems to make all kinds of power supplies and battery operated instruments. USB power outlets for cars very often have buck converters with input ranges spanning below 12V to above 24V to cover both car and truck electrical systems so they are fine at 18V nominal from the battery. If you need exactly 12V, you can get very inexpensive buck converter modules intended for dropping 24V truck electrics to 12V.
I've made the following for my CEL PowerHandle batteries:
- A box breaking out a power tool battery to two 'cigarette lighter' type car sockets and two XLR microphone sockets. The former can accept a fused 12V car plug or little self contained USB power converters that are contained within the socket. The benefit of this is you can quickly switch between different USB power standards (PD, Qualcomm, Apple etc.). The XLR sockets take gooseneck LED lights made for musicians which are designed to take parasitic power from an active microphone socket, but work fine off 12V.
- A high specification laboratory power supply covering voltage range 1-50V, current range 0-5A. This is based on a low-cost Chinese buck-boost module built into a custom case with the battery shoe adapted from a torch tool mounted on the base. I also fitted an auxiliary XT60 (drone battery) plug which allows a cable connection to an old ATX mains computer PSU for bench-top use.
- The CEL system does not include a woodworking router and I did not want to have a second set of batteries. I bought a Makita router and a cheep, low capacity clone battery. I removed the cells and used the battery shell to connect the router via a short heavy-duty cable to a CEL battery shoe made from a torch as before. It works nicely and reduces the number of batteries I need to manage.
If I had any talent for movie making I'd do some RUclips videos, but instead I offer the idea to any EE RUclipsr who is interested in taking it up!
So happy to see you got a better knife! That one works great! - 0:28
He loves the odd magic trick:-)
@@fredflintstone1 - Magic? Oh what do you mean? Don't you have those knives in your country yet? Though I have seen doctors put them in people's mouths... hmmm...
@@ElmerFuddGun I am just suprised that no splnters were seen in this video:-)
Wow, I have eaten a few of those knives before.
@@AJB2K3 they are illegal in the uk as the blade is not folding and is longer than three inches:-)
I've been wanting to make one for Dewalt 20V MAX batteries for powering TS-100 soldering irons. I'd also give it a couple USB-C ports for recharging devices. I'm gradually making my devices more and more complex.
Nice ! keep at it.
My local Lidl had a load of 2AH 22v Parkside batteries for £7-50 each. I snapped up as many as I could afford for a battery bank project. Now the lucky owner of 90 new Samsung 18650 cells.
Wow. I never seen those going so cheap. Well done.
Samsung? Wow. I thought Lidl power tools were great value for money, but I didn’t expect Samsung for the money! Gotta love Lidl.
The ones I have have Parkside branded cells in them.
@@cambridgemart2075 I had some last year that were Parkside branded cells, but if the code number starts INR it means Samsung cells.
@@fuzzybobbles Cheers, they are indeed INR18650E.
I always love your videos, especially all the ones that deal with switching power supplies, I only wish they were much longer
I bought a cheap mechanical adapter for Makita and Bosch batteries from AliExpress and soldered on some wires with a XT60 connector, to power my TS100 from a 18V/20V powertool battery.
This item is in our country next week. For about $9
Actually the buck converter enable pin doesn't go to that via directly (6:55) but to the 100k resistor above the "M". Hard to see but I think it then goes from that pad to the resistor to its left (top) then down through that resistor to the via you mentioned. Looks like a resistor divider. But in the end it still goes to the micro controller.
It would be interesting to figure out if these 2 devices, battery and light, can communicate with each other in order not to let the battery over discharge itself beyond repair, or in other words, be able to charge the battery back up again. I have one of these batteries that for some reason it discharge itself in such a way that I wasn’t able to charge it back up again.
That micro has loads of I/O and a 12 bit ADC amongst other yummies, seems all a bit OTT...cheers
Hi Julian, I read somewhere that using this unit could over discharge your cells if not careful since the discharge limit is built into the handtool not the battery, do you know if this is correct.
The USB lights seem to be stronger or brider than the Lidl light itself.
Julian, you fell into the scalpers trap! ;-) Still, needs must.... and 10 quid isn't the end of the world, considering we all got a cool video!
I wanted to see inside but i don't want to break it. So thanks for that video. I wander if i can put a dc jack to output the unconverted battery voltage
Interesting review Julian. Sounds like buying up LIDL stock and reselling it, is a money maker 😊
Is there a serial port next to the microcontroller?
looks like it indeed. interesting.
I'm wondering if it is actually reading and shutting down with the high USB and light current as at 9:59. Or if it is reading the USB current and using a lower current limit if the LED is on. If you unsoldered the LED you could put it in and out of circuit without the MCU knowing. I'm just wondering because the LED is on the complete opposite side as the USB's current measuring resistors.
as opposed to the CORDED battery adaptor?
It would have been interesting to have tested the keep awake current required to stop it shutting down.
Manual said it shutdown under 135mA on USB. To prevent that without light on just solder resistor about 35ohm (+/-5ohm) on USB output inside.
The funny thing is a 12V socket for a USB charger would be much smarter as the USB car chargers are usually 24V tolerant and have their own charge protocoll. This won't charge at 1A+ as it does only 5V and no charge protocol like Qualcomm quick charge ....
Lidl why? :-/
Are you changing your channel name to Julian Lidl any thime soon :)
The belt clip seems useless in that with the thing clipped onto the belt the lights are pointing the wrong way.
What, you want it to light up your face instead of your feet? Yeah, if the light is in use, pretty useless, but fine if you want the USB or are hanging it for storage/transport/etc.
@@pfeerick I was referring to when Julian plugged the USB lights into it. Maybe other USB lights have the LEDs on the other side of the PCB?
@@robroysyd Yeah, those USB lights would be pointless with the belt clip. I have some PCB style ones, which have the capacitive touch dimmer/on/off feature on the back, which can be plugged in either way, so there are certainly better options ;)
Parkside products are not that bad, they are far from being high quality products but they are good for their price!
You can buy the parkside stuff online at lidl. www.lidl-shop.nl/q/search?q=PARKSIDE didn't find the search button on the UK site
1:02 that sounded really cheap and empty.
That's because I'm cheap and empty ;)
Just like the perfect bottle of wine after an hour. :)
👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝
Where do you get those USB LED lights?
Look on eBay for: USB LED
Usb led light stick
I think they could have made it bigger with a bit of thought :-)
Have one of them in use for a year or two - unfortunately it drains the battery if it's left connected for months... Not ideal, not not the end of the world
Two toggle switches and just a single buck for USB would have been cheaper and easier to operate.. This will drain slowly the battery and is overcomplicated for home use aye :-/
you used diodegonewild's website then