Magnetic Air Engine
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 сен 2023
- The first 100 people to use code Integza at the link below will get 60% off
of Incogni: incogni.com/integza
3D Models:integza.com/collections/3d-mo...
High pressure solenoid valve:amzn.to/3P0BNIA
Magnetic Sensor:amzn.to/3L7jeBe
Neodimium Magnets:amzn.to/481GZUY
3D Printers
Prusa Mk4:www.prusa3d.com/product/origi...
Phrozen Mini 8K:phrozen3d.com/products/phroze...
#engine #magnetic #3dprinting 
Наука
You can get all the 3D models (Native Files, STEP Files and STLs) here:integza.com/collections/3d-models
Needs more tomatoes
Make it run on tomatoes
The piston is made by hand using a dremel which is tricky poiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii ,🤣 i have rewatched that part many times and i cant stop laughing
You could put some oil in the piston to decrease friction and create more of an air tight seal
Excellent 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
If you have the Time Can you build a accélérateur linéaire (V french )
Its Berry intresting (intéressant VF )
Tom Stanton has been doing a ton of work on refining this kind of air-powered engine design over on his channel, you guys should collaborate! Tomatoes are disgusting!
Yeah I was gonna comment this. That'd be awesome, right?
Yeah and his latest stuff gets EFFICIENT
I just saw his videos on this last week and now seeing Integza do it, I was having a strange sense of deja vu 😂
I was thinking exactly that, a collab between the two of them would be so cool
Was gonna say the same
It's Interesting how I never thought of that but it kinda makes sense if you think about it. It would be interesting to see this design taken further and being used on a vehicle (small car, maybe even RC :-)
Yes it can be used ... and yes they have used it .. the guy in Australia has one , and mdi has one ... they won't let them use the already existing tech..
I hope you get the 3d printer :)
Some thoughts for improvements...
1. Reduce the volume of air after the "ignition valve" (the one providing air to the cylinder). As it currently is, the pressure shoots up when the valve is open - compressing the entire volume not just the cylinder. It seemed like it was a sort of loopy hose. If the volume there is high enough, it won't be able to fully depressurize when the piston is at bottom and the exhaust ports are open. If it doesn't fully depressurize, then the piston will have to fight the remaining pressure in order to get back to the top of the cylinder.
2. Rather than use a second valve, consider just using a pressure regulator between your high pressure source and the bottle. The bottle can be a smaller one; but the opening should be fairly open -- otherwise you could just use a CO2 canister that you previously emptied. By using a pressure regulator, you won't need a controller. You could then have a source bank of a few of the CO2 canisters, the regulator, a small bottle, the ignition valve and then the piston... it should fit in a model ship if you wanted to do some gear reduction to a paddle wheel or something like that...
3. Lastly, because you are starting with compressed air, there could be a different way to go about it. Consider a wheel with multiple scoops out of its outer edge. These scoops should be something more like a J profile so that one side was very sloped and the other very "catchy". For the simplest design the outer case would have air input ports and air output ports spaced around. The length of the scoops should be such that no two adjacent ports would be open at the same time. You should consider a different number of scoops (say perhaps six) verses sets of input/output ports (perhaps five) -- so that there should always be an input port open to one of the scoops at all times... thus self starting. The wheel itself would be the flywheel... so you could space some nuts around it for mass. You could use magnets if you wanted to in order to use the controller to adjust the pressure to get a desired speed. The first version could just leave the air pressure on all of the time. If you wanted to get more efficient, you could have an "ignition valve" for each input port. Use a single magnet in the flywheel to make the timing right for all of the input ports.
Just some ideas, lots of luck...
you can add a pressure regulator to the tank so that the perfomance of the engine stays constant throughout most of the tank pressures
Just put dry ice in the bottle and it will constantly keep the pressure up. You could add a safety mechanism to release the pressure if it gets too high.
As much as I like the idea, but dry ice won't be able to keep up with pressure drainage
There is always the choice of liquid nitrogen
@@Malkawi_FTPit definitely can if enough is used and it broken up to have enough surface area
@@genericfpv2464 A problem might be that as the CO2 sublimates, the pieces shrink, lose surface area. Similarly the bottle will get colder and colder. These will both reduce the rate the CO2 sublimates at, providing dwindling pressure. You could maybe try heating it, but that's booking a ticket to hospital.
You can have a safety over-pressure valve but you don't want to end up losing too much of the gas that way. I bet it'd be tricky. Maybe some sort of chemical gas generator? As simple as vinegar + bicarbonate of soda, or something better. Aeroplanes use little canisters of chemicals to generate emergency oxygen for the masks. One generator per mask. They just crack a lever and the reaction starts. It gets quite hot, actually a load of old oxygen generators were once shipped, improperly, in a plane's cargo container and brought the plane down, caused a disaster and killed a load of people. They're explosive if you're not careful. All that heat + oxygen plus obviously reactants.
co2 and liquid nitrogen both will blow up the bottle, i have tried this. my coworker basically blew hius hand off with nitrogen filled bottle
You should probably make a collab with Tom Stanton because he made a similar air engine that he has been perfecting.
That is an incredible little motor.
Yea the latest from Tom was quite good.
Tom made some massive power and efficiency gains in his latest video. Waaaay ahead of Integza.
Was going to point that out, that's a great idea!
😂you think he doesn’t know that !?
A suggestion for increased runtime as well as possible torque would be to use a 4500 psi (approx. 310 bar) compressed air cylinder that they use in paintball. The cylinders are about the size of a 1 liter bottle and contain a large volume of air at an extremely high pressure. You could increase the pressure maintained from 2 bars to 4 bars to see how that works out.
and you would get a free pressure regulator too, and free trigger valve, an d might be as easy just hooking the gun barrel end to a pipe, and connecting that to the air engine (the only problem getting gun fire, without any round, loaded, and connecting something to trigger, to press it once in a while (every 2 bars, was it not?)
I play paintball and complete agree as far as air storage goes, but I think he also is trying to keep the weight low. Dry ice with a bleed valve for over pressure might give you a decent enough result to be viable.
I'm a little late to the party and someone may have already said this but, but what if you used that engine to drive a low pressure air pump to supply it's own air. Theoretically it would run forever but in reality it will stop at some point. Just an idea.
@@desertfox4583fuel dude fuel
These weight about 3 or 4 pounds I would suggest getting a regulator instead so the outputs is constiant
what i Love with 3d printing is that you can mould Ideas into shape, and that makes it easier to understand and see where can you improve your product
Its always great seeing his face lightup as his machines start to work
If Tesla had a RUclips channel - and lived in Portugal and had younger sisters involuntarily helping with his experiments - this is what the channel would be like.
@DontReadMyProfilePicture.57 get a life
Yeah, 4:00
Yeah he would be proud seeing his channel
@DontReadMyProfilePicture.57I won’t read it
I suggested this to Tom as well but I think you could get a big jump in efficiency by implementing a helmholtz resonator around the exhaust ports such that after the pressure spike it cycles to a low pressure for the next cycle's exhaust phase. If you can get down to atmospheric or lower pressure in the cylinder on the up stroke it'd take a lot of waste out of the engine.
If the engine runs at a constant speed, the intake can be tuned as well as the exhaust.
@@Erik_Swiger That's true! I think the exhaust will give a bigger benefit though.
Fluid mechanics is basically black magic to me. I only know enough to know you're probably right about lots of efficiency being left on the table there. I was thinking that with Tom's two cylinder version as well, thinking you could get some kind of intake and/or exhaust resonance between the two.
@@WarttHog Yeah that could be! I think basically you'd want to design that length of tube between the solenoid valve and the ball valve such that when the ball slams shut it creates a high pressure pulse that reflects back off the closed solenoid valve such that the air that's actually flowing in to the cylinder on power stroke picks up a tiny bit more pressure. I think the difference would be significantly less though, and likely you'd have to have a pretty significant legnth of tube.
That is a pretty good idea!
Brilliant job, I think, increasing your co2 input and more bottles will allow you to support more volume, but other than that it is brilliant. Would also like to see a small force or drag to see if it has the force needed to move an object
It seems like this would be an easy way to make a silent or quiet motor for a small jigsaw or sawZall. Adding an idling mechanism would increase the run time by keeping it at a constant speed and evening out the weight on the main gear and shortening the top nail would help with efficiency(if you're still using the nail) but giving it a good balance and even another chamber or spring (like a Stirling engine) would be an interesting improvement. I would love to see you make a Jumping Cubli!!!
If you want to increase max RPM, consider using two solenoid valves in parallel. That way you can alternate between the two, theoretically doubling the rate which you can supply air to the engine.
Exactly what I thought. I'm sure others did too.
yep, had the same thought@@6adget
If he added a different type of valve mechanism that didn't involve back pressure on the piston he could basically triple the efficiency with the 2 ideas together.
That would give you two equally limited valves that eventually reach an RPM where either of them just stays open for too long and starts providing power on the upstroke which kills the momentum upon which the engine relies to complete it's cycle.
then just add another@@nargileh1
To utilize the full potential of the electrical valve you should, instead of the magnet switch use a sliding contact on the flywheel (like a contact breaker in an old engine), this would allow you to not just open the valve at exactly top dead center, giving you more power and better efficiency, but also give you the ability to tune the engine for power/ run duration by varying the length of the metal strip:
Top dead center to ~90 degress of rotation for longer running time |
Top dead center to exposure point of the outlets for maximal power
Edit: Alternatively you could use a cam & microswitch, instead of a sliding contact, this would be easier to set up, but you'd have to deal with imbalence of the flywheel caused by adding the cam.
There are also opportunities to use the microcontroller to tune the engine by tweaking the delay
Well, he might as well just use the MCU for that.
At the very least, just moving TDC a bit back should account for the opening delay of the electronic valve, which should allow for better performance without adding a computer into the mix.
The valve needs to be opened before top, there is a delay not just in the mechanism but the pulse of air has to travel some distance. Even if the cylinder is bolted directly to the valve, there is delay.
Good extension of it would be pressure sensor between valve and piston, to shorten openings when pressure is high and make them longer when goes down
Now that you have the cylinders triggering their own pressurization, you could add more cylinders and perhaps a small gear instead of a fixed axel. You could demonstrate the pros and cons of inline vs v shaped engines. My son loves this video. Very informative and safe!
Great video! Instead of using a soda bottle go to a brewing store and look for brown pet bottles, they can handle more pressure and come in loads of sizes. On top of that the same store sell fittings for these bottles and other fittings/lines/tanks for CO_2
If you put the magnet on the crank wheel, you could adjust the engine timing by moving the hall effect sensor around it - that way you could pre-fire the solenoid valve and get it to go faster :)
That is less efficient
As a car guy who loves your videos, it would be very cool to see this design implemented in an inline, multicylinder engine! Much love Integza!
Or a rotary engine instead of an inline 4stroke engine.
@@downbelow5532
It's a 2 stroke engine, not a 4 stroke.
@@downbelow5532rotary would be way more complex without benefit. Boxer or radial cylinder engines would be much easier.
I like this style of video way better than your typical video. Just down to earth, talking about what's happening without the attempts at humor.
Maybe put the magnet on the crank shaft, like a flywheel magnet, to lighten the piston weight while keeping (and possibly tuning) your timing. Also, do you think an opposed piston design would improve efficiency? Also, also: What if you implemented a flexible rubber bleeder valve that sealed when the forced intake air is deployed, but remains open when the piston(s) return to TDC in an effort to remove extra compressive resistance of the piston(s) moving back up?
Improvement Idea: I wonder if you could retrofit a rim/tire to provide both the air reservoir and means of locomotion. If you do the BB8 thing, where an off-center weight is the actual transfer of motion, use your air engine to move the weight forward a bit and let gravity do the work of moving the tire along. If you use your timing circuit to detect top dead center, you could add another signal that detected if the weight is bottom dead center, then AND the two signals together to fire the engine. Or something.
* Tom Stanton enters the chat *
Awesome video as always! You should time the motor from the fly wheel and if you created a vacuum chamber of some sort ie… mount a turbo on exhaust or something of sorts. and used it on the return of the cylinder to TDC you could potentially double your efficiency. But that being said it’d only be beneficial if the mass was able to be kept down to minimum.
Relocating that electronic valve to the top of the engine would have yielded a higher rpm and more power per stroke.
There're very disruptive waves travelling through that long stretch of tubing, greatly dampening flow.
Your magnetic timing is a pretty great idea, though embedding an optical sensor in the sidewall of the cylinder would be much faster to react and more reliable.
The only other tip I have is to move the optical sensor mount point lower incrimentally until it counteracts the delay in the flow of the air, similar to adjusting valve timing on a car.
I was thinking the fly wheel would be better for time, because you could get a more precise area of opening. But if a turbo was added to create some up pressure on the cylinder, it would have a small power band. But great point on the disruption of waves tho Definitely chocking some of that flow, and causing some unwanted vibrations.
@@smeggle100 Tiny designs being sensitive to such finetune problems is always so interesting
I would recommend using an air regulator between the bottle and the air engine. I think it will reduce the oscillations in pressure. Also use it with your CO2 recharging system because that was genius. Happy building!
The whole bottle and valve system is acting as a regulator in principal here. Why not just use the cartridge with an regulator instead? Would save on weight.
@@formdusktilldeath Exactly. All he needs to do is connect the CO2 cartridge directly to a pressure regulator like the one he used on his compressor. The regulator would maintain a perfect flow at a specific pressure and give the ability to fine tune the speed of the motor.
I think you can place the magnet on the flywheel and manually adjust the position of the sensor. Thus you’ll be able to find the most efficient angle of valve opening. Some sort of variable valve timing :)
Also less piston mass.
Have you tried tuning the magnet opening timing backwards for stronger pressures?
You could also set that up through the arduino to vary the tuning for different pressures automatically
You could move the center of the piston position slightly to the side for a more efficient down stroke and maybe decrease the bottles size for for pressure by decreasing the volume
Since you already have the arduino controlling the bottle pressure, add a magnetic encoder and control the angle to open and close the valve to improve efficiency. You could also measure rpm with this!
For me you are trying to reinvent the wheel and wasting your time!!!
@@johnhili8664so never do anything that's already been done? People do things for fun too, not everything has to have a monetary benefit.
@@iDeNoh Of course all he is doing is for monetary benefit not just for fun trying to get some money from readers and RUclips 😁
@@johnhili8664 of course, and you're welcome to not watch his content if him doing things that don't blaze new trails with cutting edge technologies bothers you. I'm sure he'll miss you.
@@iDeNoh Certainly not I all ready block the chap!!!! Simple things please simple minds:-)) Case closed!
You should use a mechanical pressure regulator instead of the bottle to have a more consistent air pressure when operating the engine. Also could potentially enclose the crank assembly and have the evacuated air from the down stroke funnel into the crank to push the piston up, potentially increasing efficiency.
You can put a spring to subject the ball to the bottom of the release valve and do not have leakege when piston is compressing the air
Instead of having the constant friction of a normal oring or a tight fitting piston, using an expansion ring on the piston that expands when the air goes in and ones the pressure is released through the ports, it's shrinks to its original size and the piston will slide up with more ease. Maybe also play around with the timings of the valve and see if you can find a faster solenoid valve or another valve type altogether, there are some options that open and close in 1ms, not sure the specs of your valve but it's worth looking at if you want to increase rpm while still using the magnetic sensor
Nice to see you put your own twist on what Tom Stanton has been doing for a while. I feel like with your technical know-how on things outside of the air engine, and his experience with air engines, you two could make something pretty cool if you collabed.
I recommend putting the magnet on the flywheel and making the sensor bracket adjustable so you can start the valve opening just a little before the piston reaches the top. If that works out you can use the micro-controller to adjust how far in advance depending on the RPM. You could also use the micro-controller to adjust how long the valve is open depending on the pressure in the tank.
Yup, i second this motion. Valve timing control is possible so it absolutely should be utilized. The faster the valve is, the better it is in this case.
I also thing that cylinder aspect ratio can be tweaked, for shorter throw with wider cylinder. That will make timing even more important.
And then, bolt the cylinder to the valve, to keep friction minimal, and the pulse delay shorter, again improving also timing.
This also reduces reciprocating mass, which should be a big benefit. It can reduce overall rotating mass if one of the nuts in the flywheel is replaced with the magnet. Consider shortening the lines after the valves as well, to make better use of the pressure and have better timing.
Congrats on bringing electronic injection to air engines! Nice job😊
I've built this design (uniflow bash valve) for over 50 years.
Use a Reed valve over a hole (inlet) at the cylinder's top!
I also build peristaltic engines.
Need lightweight higher pressure? Put a chunk of dry ice in your "boiler". The phase-change partial pressure of dry ice is 920 psig!
Use the same magnet idea on a rotary engine, and have three valves for each side of the rotor. It could produce more torque. I’d also love to see you put multiple rotary engines in series to see what effects it may produce. Love your videos man
you mean 2 right
the wankel only has 2 compression points
there is a rotary engine design with 3, its like an inverted wankel, pill rotates in a dorito instead of dorito in a pill.@@robot797
@@robot797Not all rotary engines are Wankel engines
@@user-cg5pu7bl1c so you mean the rotating piston engine
that one would be extremly hard to make
or do you mean the liquid piston engine witch isnt a rotary or a wankel
you are talking about a rotor
and the only rotary/wankel that has a rotor is the one sir wankel designed
so your comment is invalid
Perhaps they meant radial instead of rotary? Would be cool seeing a 8 cylinder radial engine lol
I recommend putting the air valve in the top of the piston to try to limit the amount of waisted air in the lines. It might also help it run at slightly higher rpm.
To reach higher RPMs, you could have the electrovalve open fully once the crankshaft hits the RPM limit of the valve opening and closing
You’re genius man,keep it that way!!!
You could use a pressure regulator (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_regulator ) in order to keep the pressure constant. You could also improve the piston seal so you don't lose pressure.
This is the way
My suggestions: Multiple cylinders. Gas regulator for X bar. Lose the soda bottle or replace with smaller to even out pressure. Parallel valves - If one isn't fast enough, mayby they can take turns (no need for Adruino, just small electronics). More canisters.
Good luck and looking forward to the next one.
Really fun video... not sure if it was mentioned already but the thought occurred to me that when you build high performance engines (for cars) you typically tune for better torque and RPM response with adjustable ignition and valve timings. Your design's electronic inlet valve should make this type of tuning fairly simple with an Arduino (retarded timing at low RPM, more advanced at higher). You might also consider modulating the power to the valve and regulating the dwell time to better regulate the amount of gas/air entering the engine. A lot of this would depend on the responsiveness /design of the valve in use but you should still be able to see noticeable gains...
that C02 cart with bottle battery was a genius idea!
Really fun design! If you wished to continue to run this at a higher RPM/higher pressure, you could use a rotary encoder in lieu of the magnetic switch. With how you have made the flywheel, you might not even have to redesign much at all, just cover the empty space outside of the nuts used for weight with a dark paper.
I really like the idea of using the compressed air canister as a larger reservoir! I bet there's a way to use the fact that it drops in temperature so heavily without getting too far out into the design-creep mire, but not sure how exactly right now.
bump
Also with the rotary encoder you can also change the angle at which to open the solenoid, the best time depends on engine speed and the input pressure, as it take time for the pressurre front to travel into the cylender. You might see it as the angle variator the engine have on intake and exhaust cam shafts.
sounds similar to Dan Gelbert's uniflow steam engine (videos of it can be searched for here/ design drawings, and written explainations were available online too). From a mechanical perspective steam engines are nearly identical to compressed air engines.
Dan chose to fix the angle at which the inlet valve opened. and just vary when exhaust valve shut. In steam engine terms that's known as cutoff. Shutting the inlet valve later means the full inlet pressure acts on the piston for longer in the stroke. That's good for power, but dents efficiency as much more of the gas's expansive energy is wasted
regarding "pressure front". the main limitation is the time it takes for a solenoid valve to transition from shut to open. Even with mechanically driven valves, that process isn't instant, and during that the valve isn't able to provide full flow into the cylinder. That slows the rise of pressure above the piston. Increasing the forces that open the valves will result in improvement. However stronger solenoids tend to take even longer to respond due to the "electromagnetic flywheel" effect. I suspect solution may be to use tiny low mass solenoids, that then control small volumes of control signal air that can then pilot (aka drive/actuate) larger air controlled main valves.
try to have the motor generate electricity inturn supplying power to a compressor and the compressor can supply more compressed air to the enjin
@@dylanswanepoel5517 this would not work as it would be breaking the laws of physics
It would be awesome and it will be more and more lighter. Also, you can try using your hyper jet steam, but controlling the water input(that make the steam) by the pressure remain in the pressure reservoir .Or you can use liquid oxygen( It can be any gas that liquifies at lower than 0*C) in a container, and the just let it to warm up at the room temperature and use it as fuel.
CO2
Cool idea man! That would be crazy!!!
It will run very fast
Crazy?I was crazy once
Holy moly! It will take off the bench as an airplane !!!
I think if you made a similar set up, but instead with super cooled water, there could be some interesting results. If you took cool water then passed it through a super chilled compressor. With the expansion of the water from getting below freezing you'd have a massive pressure difference. You could just recycle the same water as it is used for moving the piston it'd heat up slightly. Although the balancing act of keeping it from freezing would be hard. Just curious if somthing like that is even possible in a construct such as this one. Thanks! Love your videos. Wish I could make some cool stuff like this. I always loved science but as a boy I was really bored of math and thus could use a brush up but if u had practical ways of seeing things applied it makes much more sense.
If you put a bit of a dish shape into the top of the piston it should help with the torque. Maybe but extra cylinders in line would be cool too.
Suggestion: You have made a lot of rocket and jet engine and you have mostly used propane for those my suggestion is that you make a jet engine that runs on HHO that is obtained from performing the electrolysis of water and as you already know hydrogen has the highest calorific values so it should give you hell lot of thrust and also try different types of nozzles with it
Could you do a video showing the concept of vacuum buoyancy? It would be interesting to see which shapes and structures can withstand atmospheric pressure while being less dense than air
Is this coming from the veritasium video about airships ? It would be interesting regardless , I hope Integ does this.
@@zhinkunakur4751 yes it actually is! I was thinking that if one could make a buoyant structure then the problem with payloads would be solved and the use of ballasts wouldn't be necessary anymore. By simply changing the internal pressure using vacuum pumps it would adjust it's buoyancy, and to keep it on the ground during bad weather just open the valves and let air in.
I’m currently making the version shown at 0:44 so far have the weight and crankshaft but having problems with the pistons length I’m doing this with an electric saw, a bottle cap for the crankshaft, a paper clip for the pistons body, a wood piston head, and the ball valve currently does not have an o ring because I have no idea how to make those or where to find one. For those asking why I don’t use a 3D printer I simply don’t have one and am attempting to see if it’s possible to make it without a printer
If you are looking for a more constant toque you could have a pressure gauge and an electronic valve at the inlet to the engine. You use the arduino again and make the electronic valve adjust in order to keep the pressure constant.
To optimisme the opening and closing time of the valve, try attasching the magnet to the flywheel and move the sensor tangentially and radially to adjust the phase angle end opening time, respectively.
Ooh, I like this. It allows for the concept of valve timing to be shown physically rather than conceptually. I think the timing may want to be more variable than this idea allows, for peak efficiency, but that can be an easy modification further from this idea
Now, build the 3D prints in aluminum to ensure that the tolerances are correct and use the engine on a small plane!
Your design is really similar to Tom’s but I like the electronic flow regulator. It’s something he didn’t use and opted for a passive design. I think he did it to save weight, but your method allows for multiple fuel canisters and a fast reload capability.
As an improvement you could tweak the software, so the valve opens for a fixed time. That could improve the runtime even more and it's easy and fast to test.
You should make 8 cylinders connected to 1 flywheel, it can be a neat little v8!
They all must be connected to the same shaft as well. A multi cylinder one would be so cool! 🎉
Imagine a v12 🤤. A two stroke sort of engine like this would also work, would be alittle complicated though, but nothing is hard for this man 😂
This thing is awesome! I had so many ideas while watching. You could attach a throttle to it that just adjusts the point of when the ardunio puts more air in to increase or decrease the minimum pressure. You could use a larger refillable air tank like the kind used for paintball, that would give you a pretty crazy runtime or add a second cylinder offset by 90 degrees to get more torque for the same speed. I’d also love to see what kind of propeller it would spin and how much thrust could be produced.
Amazing video and a great continuation of Tom Stanton's design. I love this iteration using CO2 cartridges. A couple things :
1. Add a regulator, you will get constant controllable pressure instead of periodically uncontrolled spikes.
2. If the intent is to use CO2 cartridges as the main pressure source, add more in parallel to linearly scale up engine time. You can add more ''fuel'' up to a point where the tubing/fittings mass doesn't balance out the benefits of more engine time.
3. Remove the bottle, simply use the cartridges with tubing, valve and the regulator (less mass).
4. Put the valve closer to the head of the cylinder, it will reduce the volume of gas after the valve and therefore increase the pressure in the cylinder because of the reduced expansion necessary for the gas to reach the cylinder. It will also decrease the pressure drop through the tubing from friction. More pressure = more force = more power.
5. I would love to see more detailed engine performance data out of this, this is awesome for a pressure driven piston engine.
Don't know if someone already suggested this, but you can use a rack of such cylinders and controll/sync them with the Arduino
Two hours and 43,000 views!
Holy smoke you’ve gone from strength to strength!
It’s been amazing to watch you from the very start, and I’m so happy to see your most outstanding success.😊
The beautiful part is you really really have not changed your delivery or format.
That says a lot for how good you’ve always been.
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀🍀🍀
You can change the shape of the ball to one similar to Lollipop with the slotted stick, the piston would be concave and you could. thereby reducing the length of the compression cylinder
Hey, very good video as usual! My suggestion is to add a pressure regulator to the bottle so you can just pressurize the bottle, set the regulator to 2 bar and of you go!
Love the Hall effect switch. If I could give some advice, adding variable timing would definitely help performance. Many internal combustion engines run in the 30 degrees advance, not sure how much advance you’d want for an air engine.
I would recommend putting a pressure regulator between the bottle and solenoid, keep the length of tube between the solenoid and engine as short as possible, and moving your sensor to the flywheel.
With the sensor on the flywheel you can adjust the solenoid firing time from “top-dead-center” (TDC) for slow speed, and a few degrees ahead of TDC for higher speed.
To get really fancy, some testing could result with a gradient equation to get the most torque at every speed.
You could try a flat twin at 180 degree apart. The exhaust of one could feed the second
You need timing advance to run at higher pressure.
One way would be to move the magnet to flywheel as others suggest. Then have the reed switch move, either mechanical governor or an electronic version.
Better yet swap the reed switch for a hall sensor and write arduino code. You can detect distance to magnet so timing can be all software. You wouldn't need to move magnet to flywheel in this case, but might still be a good idea.
If you add some kind of heat exchanger, you can improve the gas efficiency, because as the gas expands, the temperature increases, so it expands less. Also it would be better to combine this system with some kind of pressure regulator, so the pressure would be even more stable + I would like to see the final power output of the engine, if you can measure it. Nice video :D
For future testing of pressure vessels, I suggest filling with water first. This way if they do break the explosion will be much less violent, and less likely to injure you.
You have a uniflow engine. As the piston approaches bottom centre it uncovers the exhaust ports letting most of the exhaust gas out, as it starts back up the cylinder the piston covers the exhaust ports and compresses the residual gas which serves to bring the piston to a smooth stop at top centre. Uniflows sometimes need relief ports to avoid over compression.
The problem is the valve either stick and ball or magnetic opens and closes the same distance before and after TDC so the first half of the gas is being used to try to push the engine backwards. You don't need this gas to slow the piston down and reverse it as compression in the cylinder is already doing that.
If you can adjust your valve timing somehow to open at TDC and close where it does at present you can cut your gas consumption in half and the engine should run faster as you will have got rid of the braking effect of early admission. It should also run with a lighter flywheel as you should need less inertia to carry it over TDC.
@Theintegza1 Try using the magnetic valve but trigger it with a magnet set on the flywheel so you can adjust valve timing by advancing or retarding the flywheel.
The resemblance to Tom Stanton's video about this type of engine is insane, even the same sponsor! x)
Great video once again! You should add an elastic chamber before the plastic bottle that, by expanding and compressing, will help to keep the pressure variation constant: it would be something to smooth out the transient, just as a solenoid in an electric circuit or a flywheel in a mechanical system
I was thinking along the same idea. Like a pulse damper. Even a small pressurized ball in the bottle would help stabilize the pressure
Build a radial engine! It would have to have a lot of tubing but I really like how they work and I think it could be pretty fun!
The fit went incredibly hard in this video, especially the sunglasses
I like how someone started building some sort of compressed air engine and now slowly more and more of tinkering and engineering channels are infected by the air engine fever. xD
It's amazing to see the different approaches, even if the designs are sometimes similar, different tools, materials as well as designing philosophies make every iteration enjoyable.
I know Tom Stanton, who else do you know?
Have been thinking about this concept in terms of power generation for a couple of years now, the problem I had was long term reliability at scale, I've been thinking in terms of 50 watts and up output as a source of renewable electricity.
You should try to make a Taurozzi Pendulum Engine, that basically has a curved cylinder and piston to reduce friction between those parts.
It has been used in 2 strokes to reduce the amount of oil consumed and it amazingly worked.
It's an interesting model, but a traditional engine with an offset crankshaft already can achieve a good efficiency, and it's a lot simpler to manufacture.
Use a 1-litre scuba tank and a first-stage pressure reducer. Then you have 200 litres in 200 bars reduced to 8 bars. These tanks are common in the diving community as "argon" tanks for dry suits ( but everybody just uses them with cheaper air). Just fill at any dive shop for under a euro. Any other size tank (0,1 to 15 litres) is usable too.
If you use a continuous pressure regulator you can extend the time your engine runs
The electronic valve works awesome! Possibly a "variable timing" with arduino on the engine could yield better results, different opening times relative to TDC, as well as time left opened similar to how VVT works on a combustion engine (maybe shorter pulses of air when it's at higher pressure and larger pulses when it's lower to get the same power vs air pressure) I think messing around with the air valves timing could maximise power/efficiency or "mileage" based on a certain "map"
like a spark plug in an engine you need to account for the delay of your solenoid valve by varying the firing angle. move your sensor from the piston to the flywheel and use the Arduino to calculate the piston position and speed, then add a delay for firing the next valve opening based on the current conditions. depending on the nail to ball size ratio using the solenoid valve should increase efficiency considerably
There once lived a man in New Zealand. I don't remember his name but I watched a ted talk about him. He warmed his cup of tea up by blowing on a whistle submerged in his tea. He passed away without passing on the knowledge he had attained. Could you maybe figure this one out in a future video??..Much love from New Zealand young sir. Love your work..
@Theintegza1 ok
Read a bit on acoustic levitation, and found an article from UCL that they're looking into using it with 3d printing for the use of multiple materials without cross contamination, for more complex designs.
a simple v twin engine with that co2 pressure system might actually produce a significant amount of torque! it'd be fun figuring out a crankshaft and output for the engine, maybe even a centrifugal clutch. super cool as always
Boxer would be easier to fabricate. But, we could also use the reverse and use two pistons in the opposite ends of the cylinder...
Double (or higher) pistons, offset on a crank shaft like an ICE. Multiple cartridges in parallel for longer runtime.
Hey there that's a lovely build!
Idea:
I've seen you make many engines of many types. Can you do a turbojet engine with variable thrust!?
you can make a 3d printed mechanical pressure regulator (spring and diaphragm)to increase the running time of the engine.
Same development journey as Tom Stanton it seems :D He 's been working on air pressure engines for a while, using soda bottles to store presssure, and a similar ball valve design. I think you guys should collaborate to make something awesome! Definitely check out his videos, he goes into depth about the process and what he did to make his engines so efficient, purely mechanically!
You can increase the runtime by using . The larger compressed canisters used in paint guns and air soft.
I find so interesting to see an engine that produces cold instead of heat ween running, such awesome concept for science fiction.
Hey Integza !
Love your videos, especially the ones on air engines ( I have a strange fascination with them, and luckily for me all of youtube also does :p )
I was thinking, since your have an electrovalve, your could time its opening using a microcontroller to regulate the pressure of air in the cylinder, thus making the motor work at a certain pressure wich you could optimise !
You would need a pressure sensor though...
Also maybe bringing the valve as close as possible to the cylinder may achieve greater efficiency ( a lot less volume of unswept air volume in the chmber = greater compression ratio I think )
I really look forward to your next videos !
Cheers from France
I'd say go with a smaller soda bottle reservoir (more compact) and add a bank of CO2 canisters for the energy source. You could also put the flywheel on a gear set to keep the weight low and allow for a little smoother engine for the low RPM. Love the content as always
Great content as always. Im really enjoying the ionic thruster videos. An idea for a future video could be tesla patent No.685,957 for the utilization of radiant energy.
Love the video! The air engine is very cool. I have an idea for a print project: a 3D printer Stirling engine
Hey Integza!
You could put a regulator on the inlet to use as a throttle!
Awesome video as always.
Vary the angle when inlet valve shuts.
in steam engine parlance, such is known as cut off adjustment.
for maximum efficiency, and utilisation of the gas pressure... shut the inlet valve at an angle when the trapped pressured gas above the piston will have expanded to atmospheric just before the engine exhausts. While efficency and gas consumption is reduced, power output falls faster.
For maximum power. The inlet valve should be shut just before the exhaust ports are opened. very little expansive work and the engine will emit a similar "chuff chuff" sound as when a steam loco is just getting moving/needs most power.the noise is made by the presssurised gas exiting to atmosphere
Feed the magnetic sensor's output to an arduino.
arduino measures time between pulses.
half of that measurement should be a decent approximation of the time it takes for piston to complete it's descent. Depending on what fraction of the power stroke it is desired for inlet valve to be open, multiply by a number that varies between 0 and 1. that parameter serves as cutoff control aka throtle.
if wanted it wouldn't take much code to add a speed governor. that would adjust throttle in response to rpms that are higher or lower than desired speed.
You could try moving the piston magnet to the flywheel or crank, then add an adjustable bracket to hold the sensor. This will allow you to advance or retard the timing. Adjusting the timing could allow for more pressure to be used. You could then use the Arduino to actively adjust timing based on RPMs giving a much nicer power curve.
@integza Theme for a future video: Air compression engine as a future car engine replacement + it's limitations and why it can/cannot happen
Could you add a second sensor at the bottom of the stroke to open a vent at the top of the cylinder? This would eliminate the resistance on the up stroke from the piston compressing air inside the cylinder. Your sensor at the top that releases pressure could also close the top vent.
It would be great if you could make a video of creating your own constant speed drive that are similar to ones on aircraft.
Also, for improvement:
Had you tried implement PID into the Arduino? It might help in producing a constant pressure throughout the whole progress and make the thing runs longer.
2 liter cola bottles can reliable hold around 165 PSI.
We had to bump the cutoff on our compressor to blow a few of them up. Average was 160, weakest blew at 150, most wouldn't blow at 150.