Thanks yeah. We will pull it in the shop and tear it down soon. That’s one comment that got me at first. I got over it quick but it’s funny. Thanks for the comment!
My first thought was a bad liner if that engine has wet liners? Pull the oil pan and put some water in the upper rad hose housing and put 15 psi on it. You'll see where the water is coming from PDQ. Thanks for sharing your adventures. Check ya later!
Thanks. I’m enjoying the journey and excited to see so many are enjoying it as well. If we don’t get to put the tractor in the shop this weekend we planned to pour water in the upper rad hose and see if water comes out of the oil pan. Wish we could pull the oil pan without splitting the whole tractor but from what I’ve seen it’s not gonna be possible. But I haven’t looked that hard at it.
Hi the engine blok on those old fords can be coroded in theblok and there can be holes from coolant to the cylinders or bottom of the blok or. Also the oil bore to the main bearrngs run close to coolant, can be coroded / holes, and collant flows to the oil. The engine blok needs to be pressure test. Greetings from 🇩🇰 Denmark god luck.🙂👍
Thanks for your comment! Sounds like you know your fords! As soon as that big road grader is out we will be pulling this tractor in to tear it down. We just thought we would test some things while we are waiting. Hello from Arkansas!
It’s my buddies shop. He owns a machine shop in town as well. As soon as that road grader is out we gonna push this big ole tractor in!! Thanks for the comment!!
I do enjoy watching good old classic tractors, of any colour, being resurrected to get back where they belong……in the fields. Your patience and enthusiasm is a pleasure to follow. Watching from England.
I just started watching your video, im a big ford tractor guy but usually with a knocking like that it can mean coolant in the oil, it thins the oil and knocks almost like a broken rod sound or a bad fuel injector knock.
I posted up a short a while back showing chunks of what I believe to be aluminum in the oil. When we finally get a chance to tear into this monster we are going to a find some fun stuff I believe! Thanks for watching and thanks for the comments God Bless!
Hi from the falkland island 🇫🇰 just a thought on the side of the engine u should have a drain tap open that and if water still comes out with the rad out then it could be a head gasket or split head. I have a head gasket go on my old 5610 and turns out was just the gasket had a mate that had a 4000 ford and his head was split. Dosnt mean it is the problem but be cheaper then a rebuild unless that is the road u won't to go.
Pretty sure it’s a liner. Next weeks vid is going to be a short one but going to show one more test before it goes into the shop. I appreciate your knowledge and thankful for you watching! Would be nice to find it’s just a gasket.
@poorfarm-nn6ii yer hi chance will be a liner but fingers crossed it a simply fix. One way would be to remove injectors and have a look inside with camera and see what it like
@@corriedalefarm yeah. And these are pretty simple injectors too. Bout to have to do injectors in my Cummins as well. Those will be a little more involved. And far more pricey than mechanical injectors. Not excited about those lol.
The block on our Ford 6610 went porous. When the tractor was running, we took the radiator cap and there were bubbles in the radiator. We tried a new head gasket and that didn't work, then I got the radiator tested and that checked out. We ended up rebuilding and sleeving the block (with some upgrades) and it's been alright. It looks like the Fords weren't sleeved
Just listened to your video again, you put in 12 gals and it ended in the sump has to be a frost plug , oil cooler leak will give you oil in the water , crack in a liner will leak coolant into the oil while working unless you have a huge hole in a liner , block.
I don’t know but it was about 27 degrees when we were working on it. So it was cold enough and old diesel with low fuel pressure would sound rough right at first. We never did run it long enough to warm it up. We are waiting to get it into that shop and thought this would be a test we could do. A viewer mentioned it. Parts gotta come off anyway. Road grader is almost done and we should be moving the tractor in soon.
Might fill the engine block and see if water pours out the oil pan as well. I think the motor is the issue. But if it had been the oil cooler then we could have figured that out without tearing the tractor in half first. I appreciate the comments!! Thanks
@@poorfarm-nn6ii It didn’t sound like a knock from being cold. It sounded like a metal on metal knock. I have seen a lot of 401 cold start videos and it doesn’t sound like that knock. I think it’s something major.
@@Ford7710 you could be right for sure. But I did notice the knock was bad but worse on camera. I thoroughly believe it’s gonna be a cylinder. A porous cylinder wouldn’t necessarily cause any knock sound other than it wouldn’t have any compression which could cause some piston slap I’d say. And it could be a rod knocking too. I’m excited to get the engine apart and see what we find. Got an old ford 5030 I think we will be messing with soon too. Spent a lot of time on that tractor in years past.
@@poorfarm-nn6ii The connecting rod could have a spun bearing. Or it could be piston slap. I Have a 1982 7710 that has had one or all the sleeves replaced a long time ago due to electrolysis. I think the sleeves have to be machined out by a machine shop, but I’m not sure. My 7710 has a Minimec injection pump on it like yours. I think yours is pressure lubed. Do you think you could do a video showing where the oil lines go? It leaks oil so I want it to be constantly filled.
![MISSING: SLIM SHADY [Expanded Mourner’s Edition Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xh8qgHrOO1g/mqdefault.jpg)
Wish I had some sound advice but I don’t .😂😂 You guys do pretty good ……. For city boys 😂😂😂😂 . 👍
Thanks yeah. We will pull it in the shop and tear it down soon. That’s one comment that got me at first. I got over it quick but it’s funny. Thanks for the comment!
Hi From the Republic of Ireland God bless Man 🙏🇮🇪🇺🇲
Thanks for the comment. Hello to you as well!
My first thought was a bad liner if that engine has wet liners? Pull the oil pan and put some water in the upper rad hose housing and put 15 psi on it. You'll see where the water is coming from PDQ. Thanks for sharing your adventures. Check ya later!
Thanks. I’m enjoying the journey and excited to see so many are enjoying it as well. If we don’t get to put the tractor in the shop this weekend we planned to pour water in the upper rad hose and see if water comes out of the oil pan. Wish we could pull the oil pan without splitting the whole tractor but from what I’ve seen it’s not gonna be possible. But I haven’t looked that hard at it.
Love the videos, keep them coming. Greetings from Australia.
Thanks, I greatly appreciate it! Thanks for watching and thanks for the encouragement!
Hi the engine blok on those old fords can be coroded in theblok and there can be holes from coolant to the cylinders or bottom of the blok or. Also the oil bore to the main bearrngs run close to coolant, can be coroded / holes, and collant flows to the oil. The engine blok needs to be pressure test. Greetings from 🇩🇰 Denmark god luck.🙂👍
Thanks for your comment! Sounds like you know your fords! As soon as that big road grader is out we will be pulling this tractor in to tear it down. We just thought we would test some things while we are waiting. Hello from Arkansas!
Engine block porosity, probably is reason in fords.
@@grefe7356 I think so as well! Thanks for watching and commenting!!
On some of the older tractors there's a tap on the radial so you can empty the water in the winter
@@ChristopherAdams-tl3me thanks for the info and thanks for the comment! I appreciate ya watching!
still put my money on a pourus block , had a few wet themselves over the years through this issue and it can dump the water in the oil pretty quick
I’m guessing cylinders as well. Wanted to try this while waiting for a spot in the shop.
Pulling the motor apart ,then finding a faulty oil cooler is the culprit Eliminating the easy stuff first ! - looks like a great working shop
It’s my buddies shop. He owns a machine shop in town as well. As soon as that road grader is out we gonna push this big ole tractor in!! Thanks for the comment!!
Great content watching from North East Scotland 👍🏴
That’s awesome!! Thanks for commenting and I’m stoked that you enjoy the vids!! Thanks!
@@poorfarm-nn6ii I grew up with Ford tractor s ..The 100 series and the 10 series. They were definitely a popular tractor here in the Uk.. 👍
@markogilvie9497 I really enjoy them. I’m a Deere guy for sure but the older fords are hard to beat.
There is a 5030 I’ve used a lot in years past that is having issues and we may be working on it soon!
Do like the Deeres to, and found them easier to drive than the Ford…
Leave me a comment and let me know what you think!! LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to help the channel grow! Thanks for all who watch, and God Bless!
Hi from ks
Hi!
You will find the problem, good luck and I watch from South Africa
We are going to try for sure! Thanks!!
I do enjoy watching good old classic tractors, of any colour, being resurrected to get back where they belong……in the fields. Your patience and enthusiasm is a pleasure to follow. Watching from England.
Thank you so much! I am really enjoying it as well. I appreciate you watching and thanks for the comment.
looking forward to the tear down and rebuild
You and me both! I’m anxious to see what the big issue is. I have my thoughts but opening it up will tell the story for sure! Thanks for the comment!
Don't know Fords, i have other colors, but i appreciate your digging and digging
Thanks! I appreciate you watching and thankful for the comment.
I just started watching your video, im a big ford tractor guy but usually with a knocking like that it can mean coolant in the oil, it thins the oil and knocks almost like a broken rod sound or a bad fuel injector knock.
I posted up a short a while back showing chunks of what I believe to be aluminum in the oil. When we finally get a chance to tear into this monster we are going to a find some fun stuff I believe! Thanks for watching and thanks for the comments God Bless!
Hole in piston was my guess after you changed the starter
@@teddybaham just got a pic of it in the shop so the time of knowing is drawing ever closer lol. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!!
@@poorfarm-nn6ii man I’d love to be turnin a wrench with ya that’s a cool old tractor be Awsome to her her roar again.
@@teddybaham looking forward to it for sure. I been seeing it for a number of years but other than us starting it here I’ve never seen it run.
Came into this video late but from what I picked up on my guess is cracked sleeve
Feeling the same way. Knocks fairly good when running in the vids too.
Hi from the falkland island 🇫🇰 just a thought on the side of the engine u should have a drain tap open that and if water still comes out with the rad out then it could be a head gasket or split head. I have a head gasket go on my old 5610 and turns out was just the gasket had a mate that had a 4000 ford and his head was split. Dosnt mean it is the problem but be cheaper then a rebuild unless that is the road u won't to go.
Pretty sure it’s a liner. Next weeks vid is going to be a short one but going to show one more test before it goes into the shop. I appreciate your knowledge and thankful for you watching! Would be nice to find it’s just a gasket.
@poorfarm-nn6ii yer hi chance will be a liner but fingers crossed it a simply fix. One way would be to remove injectors and have a look inside with camera and see what it like
@@corriedalefarm yeah. And these are pretty simple injectors too. Bout to have to do injectors in my Cummins as well. Those will be a little more involved. And far more pricey than mechanical injectors. Not excited about those lol.
I am digging it brother I am watching y'all from granbury tx
Thanks for watching and commenting! Stoked you are digging it!!
The block on our Ford 6610 went porous. When the tractor was running, we took the radiator cap and there were bubbles in the radiator. We tried a new head gasket and that didn't work, then I got the radiator tested and that checked out. We ended up rebuilding and sleeving the block (with some upgrades) and it's been alright. It looks like the Fords weren't sleeved
Yeah. It will have to be machined out and new liners pressed in from what I’m seeing. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!!
Would up grade to a TW30-35 oil cooler if needed. That series usually had a coolant conditioning filter.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate you watching and commenting!!
The most likely culprit is a popped out frost plug under the rocker shaft under the valve cover on the top of the engine,easy quick fix.
Just listened to your video again, you put in 12 gals and it ended in the sump has to be a frost plug , oil cooler leak will give you oil in the water , crack in a liner will leak coolant into the oil while working unless you have a huge hole in a liner , block.
@@lwalsh23 I think it’s going to be cylinders. Thanks for the comment!!!
I was thinking the frost plugs were on the outside and would cause it to just leak outside of the block.
There's a row under the rocker cover
@@steveC2 thanks for the comment! We will check that!!
I feel your pain I have this little tractor that just won’t start
Air-fuel-fire-exhaust! Thanks for your comment!
@@poorfarm-nn6ii you
Forgot one spark
@@user-ww1oe8um6i spark would be fire, but in this case fire would be high compression!!
Porous block that's my guess
Short video this week but it will tell the tail. Posting first thing in the morning! Thanks for watching and thanks for your guess.
If it was the oil cooler then why would it knock?
I don’t know but it was about 27 degrees when we were working on it. So it was cold enough and old diesel with low fuel pressure would sound rough right at first. We never did run it long enough to warm it up. We are waiting to get it into that shop and thought this would be a test we could do. A viewer mentioned it. Parts gotta come off anyway. Road grader is almost done and we should be moving the tractor in soon.
Might fill the engine block and see if water pours out the oil pan as well. I think the motor is the issue. But if it had been the oil cooler then we could have figured that out without tearing the tractor in half first. I appreciate the comments!! Thanks
@@poorfarm-nn6ii It didn’t sound like a knock from being cold. It sounded like a metal on metal knock. I have seen a lot of 401 cold start videos and it doesn’t sound like that knock. I think it’s something major.
@@Ford7710 you could be right for sure. But I did notice the knock was bad but worse on camera. I thoroughly believe it’s gonna be a cylinder. A porous cylinder wouldn’t necessarily cause any knock sound other than it wouldn’t have any compression which could cause some piston slap I’d say. And it could be a rod knocking too. I’m excited to get the engine apart and see what we find. Got an old ford 5030 I think we will be messing with soon too. Spent a lot of time on that tractor in years past.
@@poorfarm-nn6ii The connecting rod could have a spun bearing. Or it could be piston slap. I Have a 1982 7710 that has had one or all the sleeves replaced a long time ago due to electrolysis. I think the sleeves have to be machined out by a machine shop, but I’m not sure. My 7710 has a Minimec injection pump on it like yours. I think yours is pressure lubed. Do you think you could do a video showing where the oil lines go? It leaks oil so I want it to be constantly filled.
The cillinders are rotten normal white ford
Yep! Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!