Many thanks Pablo for your excellent instruction. I have now reached this point in polishing and as my first polishing project is a guitar with oak back and sides, if it wasn’t for your excellent tutoring, I would have given up long ago! Your advice has taught me patience and to ‘read’the wood.
Excellent as usual ! ! Real French Polish in detail tutorial. Most of the videos we can find on RUclips are treating one phase or just part of one phase, polishing backside what is not a big deal but nobody is covering "difficult areas" and giving solutions. 20 years of experience is more than obvious in these and all other Pablo's Videos.
@@redkitekk I am sorry. They are the two systems that define the grit for sandpaper and sanding materials. CAMI is the predominate system used in the U.S. and FEPA in the E.U. For example, P1500 a FEPA unit is equal to 800 in CAMI.
Great video Pablo....can you guestimate how many coats you will have applied in total?...I am never sure whether I have applied too much or too little!
Pablo, many thanks for these fine tutorials! Do you polish in a separate room? I would think a dust free location would be essential. Thanks Keith Short
Keith Short if you have a separate room that’s great, if you don’t then you have to think about when is a good time to polish and keep your workshop clean.
Hi Pablo. An excellent series about french polishing. I have a problem . I bought a classical guitar with a cloudy finish under the lacquer, How do i remedy the problem. The cloudiness is due to humidity when applying the finishing layer.I would be grateful for any advise you could give on the matter.
Hi William, I believe the best solution is to remove the lacquer and polish it again. I don’t know of any treatment you can apply the the lacquer to remove the bloom.
Pablo, I'm you fan, your online student and some day I wish to say that I'm you pupil (who knows?). Thanks a lot! About this class, I didn't understand the difference between this three sanding pads that you used. From the first to last one they seems to growing their polish cutting efficiency, but they looks like to be all the same grain. Could you clear this for me?
It could be a number of things.. perhaps it would be a good idea to cut back the surfaces with 600 grit sand paper and a small cork block to flatten everything and then carry on polishing with not too much shellac on your rubber.
PabloRequena I reshaped my rubber to match yours and only used a few drops of FP and that worked very well. I did use a new piece of t shirt material on outside. So far so good!!!! Thanks again.
je suis français et hélas je ne comprends pas l anglais c est bien dommage car vos vidéos sont excellentes alors à quand la traduction ?merci et à la prochaine video
Hey Pablo, so I’m nearing the point where I’m slowing down on my polishing and allowing the polish to shrink, I’m also using more alcohol and less shellac to bring up the gloss. Just today all of a sudden I noticed on my back and side mahogany that each individual pore is sparkling in the light, almost like glitter. It doesn’t show up well on camera but i was able to catch a bit of how it looks in the pic below. Is this an indication I still have a good bit more shellac and polishing to do to the instrument and that I should maintain the normal amount of shellac? Or is this normal and what I can expect from the end result? I’m semi worried that I’m using too much alcohol at this point (7 days polishing) and it’s wearing away all of my built up polish. I will add that I did pore fill with epoxy on the mahogany as well as the rosewood. I hope I’m not taking advantage of your generosity with my questions, I very much appreciate you and your work. imgur.com/gallery/s1255Mn
I think I figured it out. I think the polish just shrunk because I wasn’t using as much shellac, and have concluded I need to slow it down a bit with my application pacing and keep adding the standard 2lb cut. All in all I just didn’t have enough polish on the guitar to reduce the amount of shellac I was using (I assume)
@@becomingalulabro4536 that makes sense. Once you have built the polish enough and you cut back to level it up all surfaces should go completely mat. That’s when you know you can start slowing the building up of the polish and use less shellac to get to the final finish.
What a gift Pablo shared with us.
Many thanks Pablo for your excellent instruction. I have now reached this point in polishing and as my first polishing project is a guitar with oak back and sides, if it wasn’t for your excellent tutoring, I would have given up long ago! Your advice has taught me patience and to ‘read’the wood.
best lesson
Excellent as usual ! ! Real French Polish in detail tutorial. Most of the videos we can find on RUclips are treating one phase or just part of one phase, polishing backside what is not a big deal but nobody is covering "difficult areas" and giving solutions. 20 years of experience is more than obvious in these and all other Pablo's Videos.
Such a great series, such a great gift. thanks, Pablo!
Tus videos cada vez mejores Pablo. El nivel de detalle, el cuidado en llegar al aprendiz, el no guardarse nada...de veras gracias.
Sergio Gonzáles de nada, gracias a ti por ver mis vídeos, me alegro de que te guste como trabajo.
Thank you maestro!
Hello Pablo what grit pads are you doing on the final sanding 1500? Or a little bit courser?
Harry Odum yes, they are 1500
@@redkitekk Is that FEPA P1500 or the CAMI 1500?
@@rickkernell2486 what does FEPA and CAMI means?
@@redkitekk I am sorry. They are the two systems that define the grit for sandpaper and sanding materials. CAMI is the predominate system used in the U.S. and FEPA in the E.U. For example, P1500 a FEPA unit is equal to 800 in CAMI.
Great video Pablo....can you guestimate how many coats you will have applied in total?...I am never sure whether I have applied too much or too little!
Pablo, many thanks for these fine tutorials!
Do you polish in a separate room? I would think a dust free location would be essential.
Thanks
Keith Short
Keith Short if you have a separate room that’s great, if you don’t then you have to think about when is a good time to polish and keep your workshop clean.
Hi Pablo. An excellent series about french polishing. I have a problem . I bought a classical guitar with a cloudy finish under the lacquer, How do i remedy the problem. The cloudiness is due to humidity when applying the finishing layer.I would be grateful for any advise you could give on the matter.
Hi William, I believe the best solution is to remove the lacquer and polish it again. I don’t know of any treatment you can apply the the lacquer to remove the bloom.
Hi Pablo, what kind of pads are those ? Where can I get them ?
docdoc they are Indasa microfine sanding pads and I get them on line
@@redkitekk Gracias Maestro! What grits are you using in this step to remove the oil and the final cutting back?
Hello, and thank you for the wonderful videos.
Should i polish with shellac without oil after using those sanding pads?
You will need to use oil when the polish start getting too sticky and the rubber doesn't flow very well.
@@redkitekk
Thank you!
Pablo, I'm you fan, your online student and some day I wish to say that I'm you pupil (who knows?). Thanks a lot! About this class, I didn't understand the difference between this three sanding pads that you used. From the first to last one they seems to growing their polish cutting efficiency, but they looks like to be all the same grain. Could you clear this for me?
Really like your lessons Pablo!! Having a problem getting smooth surface on my instrument. Too much fp in pad maybe??
It could be a number of things.. perhaps it would be a good idea to cut back the surfaces with 600 grit sand paper and a small cork block to flatten everything and then carry on polishing with not too much shellac on your rubber.
PabloRequena I reshaped my rubber to match yours and only used a few drops of FP and that worked very well. I did use a new piece of t shirt material on outside. So far so good!!!! Thanks again.
je suis français et hélas je ne comprends pas l anglais c est bien dommage car vos vidéos sont excellentes alors à quand la traduction ?merci et à la prochaine video
Hey Pablo, so I’m nearing the point where I’m slowing down on my polishing and allowing the polish to shrink, I’m also using more alcohol and less shellac to bring up the gloss. Just today all of a sudden I noticed on my back and side mahogany that each individual pore is sparkling in the light, almost like glitter. It doesn’t show up well on camera but i was able to catch a bit of how it looks in the pic below.
Is this an indication I still have a good bit more shellac and polishing to do to the instrument and that I should maintain the normal amount of shellac? Or is this normal and what I can expect from the end result? I’m semi worried that I’m using too much alcohol at this point (7 days polishing) and it’s wearing away all of my built up polish. I will add that I did pore fill with epoxy on the mahogany as well as the rosewood.
I hope I’m not taking advantage of your generosity with my questions, I very much appreciate you and your work.
imgur.com/gallery/s1255Mn
I think I figured it out. I think the polish just shrunk because I wasn’t using as much shellac, and have concluded I need to slow it down a bit with my application pacing and keep adding the standard 2lb cut. All in all I just didn’t have enough polish on the guitar to reduce the amount of shellac I was using (I assume)
@@becomingalulabro4536 that makes sense. Once you have built the polish enough and you cut back to level it up all surfaces should go completely mat. That’s when you know you can start slowing the building up of the polish and use less shellac to get to the final finish.