Really cool video and I do like this kind of real life experimentation! How about a video on power loss in electrical components such as wiring, connectors and switches and even batteries? Or perhaps a video on power losses through mechanical components such as gearboxes, diffs, knuckle joints etc.? Keep up the good work man, your videos are invaluable to us RC fans!
Hey Remko, thanks a ton for the comment and suggestions. There will be more and more practical videos that are released. One idea in queue will be similar to the mechanical component losses that you have suggested.
thank you. the difference between just repeting what you read from google and actually test and give the viewers a big and detailed insight, is what makes a good video. i searched the net and youtube to se if i can learn how brake heat my engine. found alot of diffuse forum speculations (as usual) and then i found this.
Rotating the motor by hand produces a voltage at the battery terminal of Esc. It's charging and it doesn't seem to be much good. If you charge the battery at - 20 degrees Celsius, it will break.
Thank you. I have a question. After connecting the three wires of the brushless motor, I tried to rotate the rotor of the motor. Resistance feels strong. Do I stop using this phenomenon when I use the brake? Then I wonder if I can apply the brakes with little power.
Any brake should be dimensioned to be able to lock the wheels but then you need ABS or a sensitive braking finger. I wonder if someone have implemented ABS into their ESC yet?
Why not just run regeneration software so if U back of it charges back and starts gently phase locking which is like a brake ...this is what I live about brushed motors they begin cogging the moment the power is gone and due to fast rotation it gets to become a generator but the drag acts like brakes
If I apply a consistent 20% brake input with the controller, does the ESC(brushless motor with sensor) change the brake ratio according to the motor's speed to make the brake force consistent? Should the RC car driver apply a small brake input when the car is fast and apply a big brake input when the car is slow which is opposite to the brake technique in a real car?
The ESC does not change force with respect to speed. The RC Car driver would have to increase braking force as the car slows down. In fact at very slow speeds, the brakes on the car may not slow the car down to literally 0 speed. For example, while the car is on an incline.
@@RCexplained Thanks. 0 speed 0 EMF 0 brake force I guess. Does RC car's braking have a natural ABS effect? When the tires locked up, the braking force is off natually which unlock the tires?
No if three tires were at 100kmh and the locked up tire that broke traction was at 2kmh or 30kmh. This would still be a problem. Any major difference in speed between the tires would be an issue.
I remember doing speed runs with the infraction i had, at 90+ and over the motor was hot. Me doing multiple back to back passes and not thinking “ its getting too hot, no wonder my motor was toasty hot, it was in the 160 to 180 range, one time i remember getting it over 200°F, stupid of me. or i remember so much heat or resistance that my pinion would come off. Thank good news for sensored motors to cut off at a certain temp. Guess thats why they say one run and done. Great vid ryan.
Hold on ... 45W for a motor on idle? That sounds like way too much. Does it even make sense to measure wattage using a regular wattmeter? The motor is an inductive load so you will have current flowing there and back which I guess isn't registered by the meter.
Hi Teymur, thanks for the comment. 45 watts includes quite a bit. Not only does it include the Io current of the driving motor, it also includes the power requirement to spin up the driven motor and any losses in the drivetrain. The wattmeter shows nearly the same amount of current as the multimeters when hooked up. The meter is not connected between the ESC and motor. It is only measuring consumption between the ESC and battery.
Thanks for the comment Lawrence. Any significant hill and the motor will not be able to hold the car especially if a high gear ratio is used like on a fast on road car.
@@LawrenceTimme Yeah, that's a "problem" especially with high voltage and low KV setups. I think the esc has a really hard time to stay in sync with the motor when braking at very low speeds.
Really cool video and I do like this kind of real life experimentation! How about a video on power loss in electrical components such as wiring, connectors and switches and even batteries? Or perhaps a video on power losses through mechanical components such as gearboxes, diffs, knuckle joints etc.? Keep up the good work man, your videos are invaluable to us RC fans!
Hey Remko, thanks a ton for the comment and suggestions. There will be more and more practical videos that are released. One idea in queue will be similar to the mechanical component losses that you have suggested.
@@RCexplained That's great, thanks!
thank you. the difference between just repeting what you read from google and actually test and give the viewers a big and detailed insight, is what makes a good video. i searched the net and youtube to se if i can learn how brake heat my engine. found alot of diffuse forum speculations (as usual) and then i found this.
Thanks Cim
I was wondering, can you do regenerative braking with a brushless motor? and how can you do it if it is possible?
Yes it is definitely possible. Check out the next video that gets uploaded!
Rotating the motor by hand produces a voltage at the battery terminal of Esc.
It's charging and it doesn't seem to be much good.
If you charge the battery at - 20 degrees Celsius, it will break.
Thanks for this clear explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you.
I have a question.
After connecting the three wires of the brushless motor, I tried to rotate the rotor of the motor.
Resistance feels strong.
Do I stop using this phenomenon when I use the brake?
Then I wonder if I can apply the brakes with little power.
Sometimes the ESC does apply brakes even when not powered up. This could be what you are feeling.
If a small input of Reverse(ESC in FR or FBR mode) to make braking force, is that regenerative braking?
Any brake should be dimensioned to be able to lock the wheels but then you need ABS or a sensitive braking finger. I wonder if someone have implemented ABS into their ESC yet?
Another great video. Question when apply brake. How much battery power is consumed?
None, take a look at the video in the description.
What does it mean when my esc is has been set to have breaks but I still get absolutely nothing for breaks?
how are you not 1mil subs
Thanks for the comment V WiKiD.
Why not just run regeneration software so if U back of it charges back and starts gently phase locking which is like a brake ...this is what I live about brushed motors they begin cogging the moment the power is gone and due to fast rotation it gets to become a generator but the drag acts like brakes
If I apply a consistent 20% brake input with the controller, does the ESC(brushless motor with sensor) change the brake ratio according to the motor's speed to make the brake force consistent? Should the RC car driver apply a small brake input when the car is fast and apply a big brake input when the car is slow which is opposite to the brake technique in a real car?
The ESC does not change force with respect to speed. The RC Car driver would have to increase braking force as the car slows down. In fact at very slow speeds, the brakes on the car may not slow the car down to literally 0 speed. For example, while the car is on an incline.
@@RCexplained Thanks. 0 speed 0 EMF 0 brake force I guess. Does RC car's braking have a natural ABS effect? When the tires locked up, the braking force is off natually which unlock the tires?
No if three tires were at 100kmh and the locked up tire that broke traction was at 2kmh or 30kmh. This would still be a problem. Any major difference in speed between the tires would be an issue.
I remember doing speed runs with the infraction i had, at 90+ and over the motor was hot. Me doing multiple back to back passes and not thinking “ its getting too hot,
no wonder my motor was toasty hot, it was in the 160 to 180 range, one time i remember getting it over 200°F, stupid of me. or i remember so much heat or resistance that my pinion would come off. Thank good news for sensored motors to cut off at a certain temp. Guess thats why they say one run and done. Great vid ryan.
Hi Colin, thanks for the comment. That sure is hot, much hotter than my comfort level would allow!
@@RCexplained agreed
Thanks! Very clear answer!
Glad it was helpful! Stay tuned for the next video, you will want to see it!
Good stuff!!
What if you use a MOSFET?
Why don't they use regen braking to charge the battery pack?
You may have missed it in the description.
ruclips.net/video/znlo8-ZzStQ/видео.html
Yeah does it get transformed to heat?
Yep
Majority of the power does get converted to heat. Take a look at the most recent video to see what else has been discovered about our ESC's.
So on a boat they keep telling me to get a esc that’s 180 if I want to add two 6s I have a 120esc right now Help!
How do you plan to add 2 6s packs? 44 volts or 22 volts?
Hold on ... 45W for a motor on idle? That sounds like way too much. Does it even make sense to measure wattage using a regular wattmeter? The motor is an inductive load so you will have current flowing there and back which I guess isn't registered by the meter.
Hi Teymur, thanks for the comment. 45 watts includes quite a bit. Not only does it include the Io current of the driving motor, it also includes the power requirement to spin up the driven motor and any losses in the drivetrain. The wattmeter shows nearly the same amount of current as the multimeters when hooked up.
The meter is not connected between the ESC and motor. It is only measuring consumption between the ESC and battery.
Esc that turns braking in to real 🔋 power would ne Kool
Did you see part 2?
ruclips.net/video/znlo8-ZzStQ/видео.html
Interesting. My car rolled into a stream the other day really slow because the motor couldn't brake at such a slow speed.
Thanks for the comment Lawrence. Any significant hill and the motor will not be able to hold the car especially if a high gear ratio is used like on a fast on road car.
@@RCexplained was a 1700kv motor as well which doesn't help
@@LawrenceTimme Yeah, that's a "problem" especially with high voltage and low KV setups. I think the esc has a really hard time to stay in sync with the motor when braking at very low speeds.