Gracias, vivo con el mismo ruido y también pensé en el descompresor. Hizé lo mismo que ud. Abrí abajo y mire el resorte del doo. Tiene la reforma de Eagle Mike Cambié cadena de distribución y regule válvulas y el sonido continua. Tendré que acostumbrarme a montar con ése sonido.
Also, for those that have performed the valve clearance/shim replacement there is a crossover tube that runs from the left front exhaust camshaft cap to the left rear intake camshaft cap. It’s designed to transfer oil between the two. The procedure calls for replacement of the O rings. If Leak by occurs there it could potentially starve bearing surfaces with needed oil. Something to consider if doing the job. I recently did the job on my 2022 with 15K miles and discovered both exhaust and intake valve clearances were tight resulting in having to replace shims. Thankfully I didn’t see any wear on cam lobes or cam bearing surfaces. Now with clearances set to max allowable clearance the bike runs noticeably better. Aloha 🍍
You CAN remove the automatic compression release mechanism. The bike will still start. A healthy battery and starter will have enough power to overcome the compression. Removing the automatic compression release is a common modification to the klr650.
Gracias, vivo con el mismo ruido. Cambié cadena de distribución. Mire el resorte del doo (reforma Eagle Mike ). Regulé valvulas y el sonido continua. También pensé en el descompresor. Tendré que acostumbrarme a rodar con ese sonido.
Mate I have the exact same noise in mine that I just bought a few weeks ago and no its not normal. This is my third KLR and the only one to make this noise. I just pulled the rotor off to check the dohickey, chains, ballancer and timing are ok. My next thought is the Kacar and after doing some reserch it is knowen on other model Kawasakis for the springs to weaken. Apparently it has another smaller spring inside it. Will be checking mine out this weekend. Cheers for the vid
I pulled the cam out and checked the valve clearance as well. It was pretty loose and likely the source of the noise but did not appear damaged or worn so put it back and ignored the noise. Ended up selling it not long ago and getting a new gen 3
I just did my valve shims - havent ran low on oil - everything looks good. My exhaust valves were pretty tight. Now everything is within spec and all of a sudden im getting this KACR noice - intermittent ticking. How and why?
My 1st thought: check valve adjustment. However, if it is normal for that part to make that ticking noise, rest easy & don't worry about it. I listen to ClevelandMoto Podcast--those guys said KLR650's make noises and it's normal. They recommended a louder exhaust! lol :)
Incorrect. It will start and run without the KACR. You DO need to drive a plug into the end of the cam after removing the KACR. No you don't and shouldn't have o "live" with he noise. The weights are thrown out and should no longer move or make noise after the engine starts. Usually the sound is of it making contact with the cover and/or head because it is damaged from running low of oil. This is a well known problem as the KACR design has been used in THE1984 KL600 all the way through the latest models.
I just did my valve shims - havent ran low on oil - everything looks good. My exhaust valves were pretty tight. Now everything is within spec and all of a sudden im getting this KACR noice - intermittent ticking. How and why?
@@erinsonduran6663 Mine started doing the same thing after adjusting the shims. I didn't run it low on oil so I'm wondering what caused it. 25k miles with none of this sound until I did my 2nd adjustment, also installed the doohickey but I don't know what that would do with the KACR.
@@erinsonduran6663 centrifugal force is supposed to keep the kacr out of the way. Temperature shouldn't affect it. The newness of the chain shouldn't matter, it's the tension. I'm just guessing based on what I can hear over RUclips... But my KLR doesn't rattle like that. The Doohickey is the counterbalancer chain tensioner. Obviously, the counterbalancer chain doesn't go to the cylinder head. I can't explain it based on what you showed. But I've never heard of KLR make that noise based on a cacker.
Gracias, vivo con el mismo ruido y también pensé en el descompresor.
Hizé lo mismo que ud. Abrí abajo y mire el resorte del doo. Tiene la reforma de Eagle Mike
Cambié cadena de distribución y regule válvulas y el sonido continua.
Tendré que acostumbrarme a montar con ése sonido.
same noise here after changing the head out. Went through everything but that piece. Thanks for the video. I'll live with it too.
I heard that exact sound on yesterdays ride. thank you so much for the video!
guess we are the green ticking gang now boys.
Also, for those that have performed the valve clearance/shim replacement there is a crossover tube that runs from the left front exhaust camshaft cap to the left rear intake camshaft cap. It’s designed to transfer oil between the two. The procedure calls for replacement of the O rings. If Leak by occurs there it could potentially starve bearing surfaces with needed oil. Something to consider if doing the job. I recently did the job on my 2022 with 15K miles and discovered both exhaust and intake valve clearances were tight resulting in having to replace shims. Thankfully I didn’t see any wear on cam lobes or cam bearing surfaces. Now with clearances set to max allowable clearance the bike runs noticeably better. Aloha 🍍
Man, you're a life saver. I was about to open up my 2023 for this.
Wao 2023 still like new
You CAN remove the automatic compression release mechanism. The bike will still start. A healthy battery and starter will have enough power to overcome the compression. Removing the automatic compression release is a common modification to the klr650.
Gracias, vivo con el mismo ruido.
Cambié cadena de distribución.
Mire el resorte del doo (reforma Eagle Mike ).
Regulé valvulas y el sonido continua.
También pensé en el descompresor.
Tendré que acostumbrarme a rodar con ese sonido.
There is something we can do......ignore it.... 😂
Mine has been making that noise for 93,000 miles. Ride ..enjoy.
Mate I have the exact same noise in mine that I just bought a few weeks ago and no its not normal. This is my third KLR and the only one to make this noise. I just pulled the rotor off to check the dohickey, chains, ballancer and timing are ok. My next thought is the Kacar and after doing some reserch it is knowen on other model Kawasakis for the springs to weaken. Apparently it has another smaller spring inside it. Will be checking mine out this weekend. Cheers for the vid
did you fix yours?
I pulled the cam out and checked the valve clearance as well. It was pretty loose and likely the source of the noise but did not appear damaged or worn so put it back and ignored the noise. Ended up selling it not long ago and getting a new gen 3
I just did my valve shims - havent ran low on oil - everything looks good. My exhaust valves were pretty tight. Now everything is within spec and all of a sudden im getting this KACR noice - intermittent ticking. How and why?
Don't worry it'll be alright with that noise. I just didn't like it and got me a new bike.
just wondering does noise come and go sometimes not at all, I had a loose valve guide in mine
My 1st thought: check valve adjustment.
However, if it is normal for that part to make that ticking noise, rest easy & don't worry about it. I listen to ClevelandMoto Podcast--those guys said KLR650's make noises and it's normal. They recommended a louder exhaust! lol :)
almost sounds like an exhaust leak
Hi! Your bike have a so great sound! What you have for exsaust pipe? Thank you.
Original
@@erinsonduran6663 waouh, so i have to check my valves clearance... thanks you and have a nice day.
Incorrect. It will start and run without the KACR. You DO need to drive a plug into the end of the cam after removing the KACR.
No you don't and shouldn't have o "live" with he noise.
The weights are thrown out and should no longer move or make noise after the engine starts. Usually the sound is of it making contact with the cover and/or head because it is damaged from running low of oil.
This is a well known problem as the KACR design has been used in THE1984 KL600 all the way through the latest models.
I just did my valve shims - havent ran low on oil - everything looks good. My exhaust valves were pretty tight. Now everything is within spec and all of a sudden im getting this KACR noice - intermittent ticking. How and why?
So what the hell happened to do that to the cam shaft?
Ran without Oil
Exhaust cam right hand side journal is the first part to starve for oil when ran low.
@@erinsonduran6663 Mine started doing the same thing after adjusting the shims. I didn't run it low on oil so I'm wondering what caused it. 25k miles with none of this sound until I did my 2nd adjustment, also installed the doohickey but I don't know what that would do with the KACR.
No oil- ran oil to low>>>Etc..
@@Texan_American mine is doing the exact same thing now after doing the valve shims - at 43k
Hey I'm about to replace the same parts because the old owner did run the bike with low oil. So what donypu recomend me to do?
I'm using Rotella 15w-40😊
Keep the oil full.
Are you sure that isn't a chain rattle? A chain heating up would loosen up rattle against the side of the case.
No, the chain is new
@@erinsonduran6663 centrifugal force is supposed to keep the kacr out of the way. Temperature shouldn't affect it. The newness of the chain shouldn't matter, it's the tension.
I'm just guessing based on what I can hear over RUclips... But my KLR doesn't rattle like that. The Doohickey is the counterbalancer chain tensioner. Obviously, the counterbalancer chain doesn't go to the cylinder head. I can't explain it based on what you showed. But I've never heard of KLR make that noise based on a cacker.
@@robluce6334 the noise comes from top front right where the KARC is not from left side where the chain is.
That would do my head i can't stand ticking engine noise..... you could sell it an buy a xr600
You can't hear it when you're riding, its just an issue at idle.