I have the water pump job to do on my daughters Fiesta soon, as a diy mechanic I have watched quite a few instruction vids on this & this one is by far the best, I also like the fact that you reply to questions, bloody brilliant job, many thanks.
Fantastic video and thank you for taking the time out to show this in such detail i have no issues now to do my own, thanks again Kind Regards Mark....
Great video and very helpful thanks. Just for others to be aware - the VTI needs an extended flywheel locking tool, the standard one (I bought) is too short.Had to put back together, awaiting delivery.
Thanks very much for this video tutorial, I have this job to do on a Ecosport 1.5 Duratec engine. Doesn't look to daunting if you have all the correct tool, thanks again
great video , helped us a lot to do the job, the clamping kit we bought from eBay wasn't fit for purpose, after spending many hour locking everything into position, cutting the belt and started undoing the pulley bolt the flywheel holding tool snapped very easily !!! we were horrified ! we aren't experienced with engine timings and just watched the main crank move!!! ended up taking the sump cover off then could see the fly wheel, we then made our own tool to hold it. All good now and started first time :)
The flywheel holding tool works on the ring gear. If you mean the pin that screws in the side of the block then this is just the TDC positioner. It wont take any torque.
Just did mine, I bought the kit and I thought I had the main locking tool but didn’t. I still did it with a very powerful impact, and a chain- vise grip over the crankshaft pulley , with towel protecting pulley. I wouldn’t advise this, definitely get the main locking tool. Although I was successful.
Thanks for watching! Just make sure you hold that crank in position when loosening and tightening the bolt, Had guy on here complaining that the TDC locator pin snapped off when he undid the crankshaft. I said did you fit the pinion locking tool he said 'there was nothing wrong with the starter so I didn't bother with that stage'.... It just goes to prove you can't win.. Good luck with it.
To anyone interested regarding the auxiliary belt stretching tools - if you buy the belt from a Ford dealership, they supply them with the belt. Did it once with a focus years back, kept the tools, and now I can just use the aftermarket belts just as easily
Hi. Great video showing the parts and reasons for tools - well explained. Can you explain how you managed to install the aux belt after doing the timing belt; I'm about to do the same job on my Focus Mk2 2007. Thanks again. Cliff
Cliff, I cut a piece of Tin plate that protected the belt from the edge of the pulley when being stretched over the edge. You just get it in position and then rotate the crank and it slips into place. Much easier to do that I had anticipated. If you buy the locking tool then note that in some kits the peg that engages in the starter ring is too short to reach the teeth. Double check you have the right one for your engine.
The pin is for setting the TOP-DEAD CENTRE. The flywheel lock is to hold the crank whilst you undo the pulley bolt. The timing pin isn't strong enough.
Thank you so much for this video. My car is the same year but 1.4L automatic so this video is incredibly helpful to me the anxious amateur. I wonder, could you give any pointers on how you cleaned up the block surface where the water pump goes and what you used to help seal the new one in place? Thanks again!
No problem. Nice to know it was of use. I use ThreeBond 1215 Liquid Gasket smeared onto the new gasket supplied with the pump. This stuff is really good and is used in-house by car manufacturers. The old gasket came off clean so I just wiped the mating surface on the engine with brake cleaner.
kurisurs - did you do this job in the end? I've got the same 1.4 auto as you. Magic Smoke says the starter motor is easier to access on the 1.25 and 1.4 but looking at mine it is buried away hidden behind a lot of pipework!
Great video ! I have a question wondering if I could loosen crankshaft pulley bolt first with old timing belt still on to the point where only tight enough to set engine at TDC. And tight a new crankshaft pulley bolt on with new timing belt installed and lock pin, timing plate out. So that I don't mess up timing and don't need to apply the lock on fly wheel. Is it doable ? Thank you again for this informative video.
There is no woodruff key on the crankshaft to register the rotational position of the pulley - only the clamping force keeps it timed. If the pulley moves at all on the crankshaft when you loosen the bolt then you will have to do the whole re-timing exercise. Sp probably not a good idea.
@@razenby Really? That's very surprising. I wouldn't have thought that the design would rely on friction, I've never seen one without a woodruff key but happy to be wrong...
@@razenby well - I did my daughters cambelt and blow me if there was no woodruff key!!! Thinking about it I've only ever really worked on German cars. Learn something new everyday. I did like the fact that when the pin was pulled on the tensioner the belt was evenly tensioned with no faff of double checking the cam position as everything is individually timed and any tiny tolerances are taken out by the fact that the crank pulley self adjusts on the shaft. Rather neat.
Hi I'm about to attempt this to help a friend with the job. First of could I get away with not using the locking tools the crank isn't under load and was going to mark it up along with cams so i know where to return it to positions they need I've an strong dewalt impact which I can use for the crank bolt, if the cams rotate slightly at least I've marked them but because there under tension how easy to move back to the right point I've a hook spanner which I can use to move it hopefully if not to tight 🤞
The problem is that the crank timing pulley is not keyed to the crankshaft. Setting the crank to TDC is easy by use of the timing pin. I have never gone through the complete timing setup process that would be necessary of either the cam pulley loses reference to the belt. Since the cam timing is variable I presume that you fit a locking tool to the CAMS with the timing gear cover removed and then set and lock the the cam pulleys to their own reference at TDC. Only then can the belt be fitted.
Hey awesome video! I agree with everyone else, one of the best on RUclips! Just wondering , I changed the water pump, used the tension pulley to remove the timing belt, I didn’t mess with the cam shaft or the pulley at the bottom! Did I need to use the timing pin, cam locking tool and flywheel tool if i only messed with the tension pulley and not anything else??
No, I just used the old ones. Can't see the bolts that came out of the water pump being stretched - the torque isn't high enough. Never understood that as I have always used the bolts that came out unless they are stretch bolts or very high tightening torque bolts. No new bolts were in my Water pump kit.
Thanks for the fast reply - my thoughts exactly! Also, when fitting the crankshaft bolt, did you remove the pulley alignment tool before or leave it in while tightening?
I have no direct exterience but their website says 'Dayco Automotive Water Pumps are warranted for a period of 2 years or 40,000 km' so they don't sound that confident in their product.
A bodge I know, but would it be reasonable to cut the bottom crank pulley cover, enough to remove it and gain access to the crank pulley which could then stay in place without the sometimes traumatic procedure of removing and replacing seized up crank pulley ?
That is a very good question. It does seem completely daft not to make a 2 part cover with a clam shell so you can change the belt without taking the pulley off. It could easily be modeled on CAD so I don't see why they don't do it that way. You could hold the bottom part in place by splitting around the crank and a couple of screws perpendicular to the axis of the crank upwards to hold it on. The injection mold tool for the cover would need a sliding core to allow ejection but that wouldn't be much extra cost. I conclude that they just don't care.
Loo at the video the fitting of the crankshaft locking tool as discussed. If the cam sprockets and the crankshaft crankshaft are locked and not allowed to change registration with regard to each other then there is no need to rotate anything,. Just cut the belt and put the new belt on.
Hello small question I have a fiesta 1.6 ST 182 I made my distribution following a leak on the water pump I didn't have a ford setting pin for the crankshaft and I put a 7 diameter drill bit instead, however I set the camshafts well with the ford tool. I really felt when setting the crankshaft that the drill was blocking it I performed my engine revolutions manually without problem once the new belt was reassembled, but when starting the engine does not turn well, on 3 cylinders it seems.. Is it possible to shift the crankshaft by half a tooth or even a tooth if you don't use the ford tool? It looks like i didn't break anything but my wedging looks bad Thank you for your reply
I guess a drill bit would work so long as it is a tight fit in the threaded part. Unlikely that it could be a whole tooth out. If you are in doubt about the timing or you thin it may have slipped then you are best advised to do the complete valve timing set up. Good luck.
I followed your steps, will the flywheel only lock when it’s on timing? I put the locking tool in and it did not lock the fly wheel, I flipped it and tried different methods but nothing
The flywheel locking tool that fits in the starter engages in the ring gear on the flywheel. When you fit the locking tool you have to do it with feeling, making sure that the teeth on the locking tool engage on the teeth on the ring gear. Move it up and down until you feel it slide in further when the teeth line up, If the teeth aren't engaged they it will slip as soon as you apply torque to the crankshaft.
Yes, unfortunately, the pulley has to be removed to release the belt. If they had thought through the design of the plastic timing cover they could have avoided this onerous step.
Yes! I forgot to follow up @Birdman Junior . I didn't realize the crank shaft holding tool wasn't in the kit I bought, so I had to order one and wait on that to come in when I already had it part way torn down...in my ex wife's driveway 😂 But I got it all done, did a road trip a few days later. Then a track day a few days after that 👍
Perhaps you suppose pulling the timing belt tensioner hold pin before the crank bolt is tightened to be best? I imagine that to get the belt tension exact that crank pulley may need to spin a slight bit to pull the tension from the opposing side , then tighten down.
The one I just did was a 2014 fusion 1.6. On that model there was nothing holding the crankshaft belt gear from spinning when the bolt was out. In that case if I were to tighten the bolt before I had the timing belt at the proper tension, there might be some slack on the back side of the belt. This would be taken up by maybe a half or so tooth of movement , making it just slightly off exact. I didn’t actually read this anywhere, but am postulating that pulling the tensioner pin before you tighten the crank pulley is the right play.
Quick 1: is the flywheel locking tool strong enough to sustain the torque from loosening/torquing the crankshaft pulley bolt ( M14 at 74 lb-ft or 100 Nm ). Awesome vid , lovely accent ;-)
Thanks. Yes the lock is very strong but you need to take care that it is properly engaged. Do this by sliding the mount up and down until you feel the dog on the lock post slide in and fully engage in a valley on the ring gear. Then tighten up the 3 bolts. Worth taking your time over this step.
no , the clamping kit we bought from eBay wasn't fit for purpose, after spending many hour locking everything into position, cutting the belt and started undoing the pulley bolt the flywheel holding tool snapped very easily !!! we were horrified ! we aren't experienced with engine timings and just watched the main crank move!!! ended up taking the sump cover off then could see the fly wheel, we then made our own tool to hold it.
Hello brother! I need your helping, please. I have to replace water pump on my ford fusion 1.6L ecoboost. I took off the crank pulley before installing TDC pin ( without TDC pin ). I turned the crankshaft 1 rotation and 2 camshafts did not turn, and I deflected timing marks of the crankshaft and the camshaft. Right now, how I can align correctly the timing marks again. Can you show me how to do it? Please 🙏🙏🙏
Be careful turning the crank if the cams aren't locked you might hit a an open valve. If you turn the cams so that the timing marks are as shown in the manual then fit the locking plate then you should be back on track. Note if the engine was running when the belt broke then it has likely to have bent a valve.
HELP!!!!! you totally skipped the part where you take the crankshaft pulley off. there is no tool that fits a 4 hole crankshaft pulley to pull it off. What tool did you use?
Honestly most of this is applicable to the Fiesta ST as well which is this engine + turbocharger. Surprisingly helpful to me because there wasnt a good procedure video for the ST in particular besides this one where they do a buttload of extra steps.
Hello brother👋 When you have to do this job ? After how many miles after you driven or how old you’re car or Which one come first ? My car is 2013 registered Ford Fiesta Diesel Titanium.
I believe the recommendation from Ford was every 80.000 miles or 8 years, They keep changing the recommendation. My rule of thumb is 60K miles or 6 years,
The cam locking bar need not be used. The engine has variable cam timing so the relation of the cam sprockets to the camshafts is varied by the engine management system. If the sprocket locking tool slips off and you loose the registration then you will need both the cam locking and the sprocket locking tools to re-time the Cams.
Your not living in the past (comment aroung 21.35) i own two cars currently (chain) and have owned others in the past the two cars with chains i own is the VW EA888 1.8 engine fitted to VW polo and some Audi vehicles and a Mazda 2.2 Diesel, I look for cars with chains so i dont get this headache, my last car that also had a chain 2.0 Petrol Mazda engine i drove over 120,000 miles and shes still kicking around, Mazea petrol engines are bomb proof, Diesels hummmm, I am watching this video because a customer of mine wants me to change the belt on his fiesta, Looking at this video i think the VW 1,4 tsi timing chain i changed last year was easier. great video this is.
I know what you mean, apart from a thermostat and a glow plug, my B class diesel has done 170k with no engine service at all including the timing chain. Good luck with the job.
Check the timing again!! Did you spin it over a couple by hand of times to ensure the valves and pistons are not interfering? Check all plugs and wiring connections are sound. Plus a code reader in and make sure no codes are being thrown up. Could you have got the crank 360 degrees out? Engine will turn but not start...... Double check.
On my fiesta 2011 1.6 L North America, the starter cannot be accessed without removing all the upper engine cluster. Do you think it is possible to torque the pulley bolt against the TDC pin?
@@stevenwebb6123 no way, I tried already, I need to take out the entire intake manifold. It was a pain, but I did the timing belt without locking the flywheel. I fear the moment I will have to change the starter
That is the idea. I am not sure on the torque. 30nM sounds about right for an 8MM bolt. Do the bolt up tight. The tension is applied by spring not by locking the arm in postiton with the bolt.
@@razenby thank you as I work for vw our tensioners are tensioned once using the force of the nut. But I was un sure with fords but after a bit of research I've found once you remove the belt you located the new tensioner tighten the bolt and done. Fit belt pull pin. It's spring loaded. Thanks 👍
My girlfriends car is a Fiesta zetec s 1.6 2010, in the service book it shows the belt & water pump had been done at 80k in 2017. by Ford main dealer. Now on 100k, do you know if it should be replaced again? How much would a garage charge roughly also. Thanks, helpful video but I don't think I'll attempt it
When you say belt do you mean the cam belt with teeth or the smooth Aux drive belt? The cam belt replacement interval is ~80K miles or 10 years. The Aux belts last about 50K. So it seems you are golden for a while. You can inspect the Aux belt - look at the pulley side (inside) of the belt for cracks and missing parts of the ridges. It should be a smooth continuous ridged surface.
@@razenby I'm not sure now actually, so Ford have stamped & written 'Cambelt & water pump' at 76k in 2017, fast forward to 2020 at 99k a different garage (private garage) has written 'Timing belt!' A few lines under where it looks like he charged £100 to do a 'C/O service'
Was your breaker bar 1/2 or 3/4"". I had to abandon my last attempt at this job on my wifes 59 reg 1.4 Fiesta Mk6. (yes 59 reg MK6) due to time constrains, not having the crankshaft locking tool, and my ratchet and extensions in severe bend and torsion. Its great to see someone remove the crankbolt without an impact wrench. Shame you didnt show the struggles with undoing and tightening the crankbolt becouse it would have been the only one on the intenet. Well done anyway
Good pint. My approach is: If it isn't leaking then leave well alone. A new belt will be due in 5 years. The OEM seals are good and the thermoplastic elastomer has advanced in the last 20 years.. Beware cheap aftermarket seals. I buy mine from a local bearing supplier. They have real industrial brands at a lower price. I have a mercedes from new with 190k on the clock. The engine is as dry as bone. On an older car then maybe yes.
so do you not need to use the locking plate at the back of the cams? I assumed that was necessary to keep the clutches in the right place (my first VVT)
If the rotational relative position of the pulleys is maintained the the cams by definition will be correctly positioned and the rear locking plate is irrelevant. . The rear locking plate is to lock the actual camshafts at TDC so you can set the the pulleys. If you lose the positions of the pulleys (say the locking tool slips off) then you will need the rear CAM locking tool to reset the cam/pulley positions. If you prefer to use both you can.
@@razenby wish I'd asked before taking the major faff rocker cover off! Presumably you lowered the engine a bit to get to the crank bolt, is it hard to restrain the motor when heaving with the mount off?
Please I’m a mechanic from Ghana and I was removing water pump on Ford Fusion today and I I didn’t lock the crankshaft before I lose the crank bolt, So please I want to ask what will happen
You must reset the crankshaft and the cams to be in correct positions before you put the tooth belt back on. If they are not set correctly the valves will hit the pistons. It is what is called an interference engine.
@@13panda13 Thank you. It would be an insult to call me a mechanic. I am in fact a chartered engineer, my status and skills are way, way, way above that of a mechanic !!!
Yes- see video - I took the starter out and locked the flywheel with a locking tool. The problem with the ford is the TDC flywheel pin that screws in from the back of the block is very thin and easily bent. If you can get a socket on the crank pulley bolt you might be able to get away with using an impact driver without the ring gear locking tool fitted. Good luck. The most important thing to remember is to hand crank over and check the timing is correct before you start the engine..
Note to everyone the crankshaft gear is NOT keyed. Make sure you do not turn the crankshaft without the bolt in tight or you'll be in for an engine. Bloody good video though, thanks mate
@@razenby yeah sorry I hadn't gotten that far when I commented I just heard you knew it might not be keywayed. Like I said great video I had to do this same job and I was stumped trying to read the directions with the tool and this cleared up everything
Хобби
I have the water pump job to do on my daughters Fiesta soon, as a diy mechanic I have watched quite a few instruction vids on this & this one is by far the best, I also like the fact that you reply to questions, bloody brilliant job, many thanks.
Good luck with the pump. Thank you for the comments.
Bloody good video I’m a mechanic of 20 years , you know what you’re doing 👍👍
Thanks 👍
So I did it yesterday and all went well, but oh the time consumption! Just wanted to say thanks for the great content one again!
Great job. Pleased it was useful.
Fantastic video and thank you for taking the time out to show this in such detail i have no issues now to do my own, thanks again Kind Regards Mark....
Good luck with it.
Man thanks for the clarity and detail..cheers Nik
No worries.
Excellent video, thoughtfully constructive well explained tutorial . Thank you very much
you are welcome
Great video and very helpful thanks. Just for others to be aware - the VTI needs an extended flywheel locking tool, the standard one (I bought) is too short.Had to put back together, awaiting delivery.
Thanks for the info!
Brilliant guide. Made the Job a breeze. Many thanks👍
Pleased you found it useful.
Thanks very much for this video tutorial, I have this job to do on a Ecosport 1.5 Duratec engine. Doesn't look to daunting if you have all the correct tool, thanks again
No problem. Good luck.
great video , helped us a lot to do the job, the clamping kit we bought from eBay wasn't fit for purpose, after spending many hour locking everything into position, cutting the belt and started undoing the pulley bolt the flywheel holding tool snapped very easily !!! we were horrified ! we aren't experienced with engine timings and just watched the main crank move!!! ended up taking the sump cover off then could see the fly wheel, we then made our own tool to hold it. All good now and started first time :)
The flywheel holding tool works on the ring gear. If you mean the pin that screws in the side of the block then this is just the TDC positioner. It wont take any torque.
Thank you very much for this video, just done mine today. It gave me so much more insight than my Haynes manual.
You are welcome!
Just did mine, I bought the kit and I thought I had the main locking tool but didn’t. I still did it with a very powerful impact, and a chain- vise grip over the crankshaft pulley , with towel protecting pulley. I wouldn’t advise this, definitely get the main locking tool. Although I was successful.
Thanks for sharing
I don’t own a ford (vw guy) but find your vids super interesting . Keep up the great work 🇬🇧✊🏻
Thanks, will do!
as an owner of both ford is regarded
Really great and detailed video. Thanks a lot!
You're very welcome!
Great video mate , thanks for sharing 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Love your voice, and how your way of speaking is very clear opposed to many other british people where you can hear the heavy accent.
Many thanks for the compliment. Some accents are difficult to understand,
Very good explanation/ video.
Glad it was helpful!
Correct procedure with tips thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! Just make sure you hold that crank in position when loosening and tightening the bolt, Had guy on here complaining that the TDC locator pin snapped off when he undid the crankshaft. I said did you fit the pinion locking tool he said 'there was nothing wrong with the starter so I didn't bother with that stage'.... It just goes to prove you can't win.. Good luck with it.
Nice job Sir. Very complicated and I have decided a bit too much for this old fella.
Glad I could help
To anyone interested regarding the auxiliary belt stretching tools - if you buy the belt from a Ford dealership, they supply them with the belt. Did it once with a focus years back, kept the tools, and now I can just use the aftermarket belts just as easily
Interesting. I knew Ford did that in the USA but didn't thin it was a thing in the UK.... Thanks for watching.
Great video 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video
Thanks!
Hi. Great video showing the parts and reasons for tools - well explained. Can you explain how you managed to install the aux belt after doing the timing belt; I'm about to do the same job on my Focus Mk2 2007. Thanks again. Cliff
Cliff, I cut a piece of Tin plate that protected the belt from the edge of the pulley when being stretched over the edge. You just get it in position and then rotate the crank and it slips into place. Much easier to do that I had anticipated. If you buy the locking tool then note that in some kits the peg that engages in the starter ring is too short to reach the teeth. Double check you have the right one for your engine.
@@razenby Thanks for that - much appreciated. Sorry I'm late getting back to you. Thanks again.
good explanation. thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thank you. I two questions. Why do you need both a flywheel lock and a crank locking bolt, don't they do the same job?
The pin is for setting the TOP-DEAD CENTRE. The flywheel lock is to hold the crank whilst you undo the pulley bolt. The timing pin isn't strong enough.
@@razenby Gotcha!
Thank you so much for this video. My car is the same year but 1.4L automatic so this video is incredibly helpful to me the anxious amateur. I wonder, could you give any pointers on how you cleaned up the block surface where the water pump goes and what you used to help seal the new one in place? Thanks again!
No problem. Nice to know it was of use. I use ThreeBond 1215 Liquid Gasket smeared onto the new gasket supplied with the pump. This stuff is really good and is used in-house by car manufacturers. The old gasket came off clean so I just wiped the mating surface on the engine with brake cleaner.
Magic Smoke Brilliant thank you I will look out for some of that.
kurisurs - did you do this job in the end? I've got the same 1.4 auto as you. Magic Smoke says the starter motor is easier to access on the 1.25 and 1.4 but looking at mine it is buried away hidden behind a lot of pipework!
Great video ! I have a question wondering if I could loosen crankshaft pulley bolt first with old timing belt still on to the point where only tight enough to set engine at TDC. And tight a new crankshaft pulley bolt on with new timing belt installed and lock pin, timing plate out. So that I don't mess up timing and don't need to apply the lock on fly wheel. Is it doable ?
Thank you again for this informative video.
There is no woodruff key on the crankshaft to register the rotational position of the pulley - only the clamping force keeps it timed. If the pulley moves at all on the crankshaft when you loosen the bolt then you will have to do the whole re-timing exercise. Sp probably not a good idea.
Gotcha
Thank you!
@@razenby Really? That's very surprising. I wouldn't have thought that the design would rely on friction, I've never seen one without a woodruff key but happy to be wrong...
@@hyndsengineering Yes it does. All Fords do. Loosen the crank pulley bolt and the pulley and the cam drive socket spins on the crankshaft.
@@razenby well - I did my daughters cambelt and blow me if there was no woodruff key!!! Thinking about it I've only ever really worked on German cars. Learn something new everyday. I did like the fact that when the pin was pulled on the tensioner the belt was evenly tensioned with no faff of double checking the cam position as everything is individually timed and any tiny tolerances are taken out by the fact that the crank pulley self adjusts on the shaft. Rather neat.
Great video. one of the best ford timing belt vids ive found. Question is this a 1.6 ti vct engine?
Thanks. Yes it is a 1.6VCT engine
Very good
Thanks.
Hi I'm about to attempt this to help a friend with the job. First of could I get away with not using the locking tools the crank isn't under load and was going to mark it up along with cams so i know where to return it to positions they need I've an strong dewalt impact which I can use for the crank bolt, if the cams rotate slightly at least I've marked them but because there under tension how easy to move back to the right point I've a hook spanner which I can use to move it hopefully if not to tight 🤞
The problem is that the crank timing pulley is not keyed to the crankshaft. Setting the crank to TDC is easy by use of the timing pin. I have never gone through the complete timing setup process that would be necessary of either the cam pulley loses reference to the belt. Since the cam timing is variable I presume that you fit a locking tool to the CAMS with the timing gear cover removed and then set and lock the the cam pulleys to their own reference at TDC. Only then can the belt be fitted.
Hey awesome video! I agree with everyone else, one of the best on RUclips!
Just wondering , I changed the water pump, used the tension pulley to remove the timing belt, I didn’t mess with the cam shaft or the pulley at the bottom!
Did I need to use the timing pin, cam locking tool and flywheel tool if i only messed with the tension pulley and not anything else??
Thanks. The Water pump is driven by the Auxiliary belt so you don,t need to lock the engine or touch the timing belt to change it.
Great video! Do you remember if you used new bolts for the water pump? Workshop manual says to do so, but I don't see the point.
No, I just used the old ones. Can't see the bolts that came out of the water pump being stretched - the torque isn't high enough. Never understood that as I have always used the bolts that came out unless they are stretch bolts or very high tightening torque bolts. No new bolts were in my Water pump kit.
Thanks for the fast reply - my thoughts exactly! Also, when fitting the crankshaft bolt, did you remove the pulley alignment tool before or leave it in while tightening?
I have no direct exterience but their website says 'Dayco Automotive Water Pumps are warranted for a period of 2 years or 40,000 km' so they don't sound that confident in their product.
I know and they are by no means the cheapest ones out there. They have worked Ok for me. Probably fitted about 40 with no come back from my regulars.
Great video , thanks mate , good luck from Ireland 🇮🇪
Thanks, pleased you found it useful. Good luck if you are doing yours.
I did it for a customer this week, she is delighted and so is my wallet , your patience was the biggest help haha cheers again
@@owenwalters7186 Great job.
A bodge I know, but would it be reasonable to cut the bottom crank pulley cover, enough to remove it and gain access to the crank pulley which could then stay in place without the sometimes traumatic procedure of removing and replacing seized up crank pulley ?
That is a very good question. It does seem completely daft not to make a 2 part cover with a clam shell so you can change the belt without taking the pulley off. It could easily be modeled on CAD so I don't see why they don't do it that way. You could hold the bottom part in place by splitting around the crank and a couple of screws perpendicular to the axis of the crank upwards to hold it on. The injection mold tool for the cover would need a sliding core to allow ejection but that wouldn't be much extra cost. I conclude that they just don't care.
Did you turn it 90degree then wait a few minutes then turn it 15degree? And how did you stop the engine from turning?
Loo at the video the fitting of the crankshaft locking tool as discussed. If the cam sprockets and the crankshaft crankshaft are locked and not allowed to change registration with regard to each other then there is no need to rotate anything,. Just cut the belt and put the new belt on.
Hello small question I have a fiesta 1.6 ST 182
I made my distribution following a leak on the water pump I didn't have a ford setting pin for the crankshaft and I put a 7 diameter drill bit instead, however I set the camshafts well with the ford tool.
I really felt when setting the crankshaft that the drill was blocking it
I performed my engine revolutions manually without problem once the new belt was reassembled, but when starting the engine does not turn well, on 3 cylinders it seems..
Is it possible to shift the crankshaft by half a tooth or even a tooth if you don't use the ford tool?
It looks like i didn't break anything but my wedging looks bad
Thank you for your reply
I guess a drill bit would work so long as it is a tight fit in the threaded part. Unlikely that it could be a whole tooth out. If you are in doubt about the timing or you thin it may have slipped then you are best advised to do the complete valve timing set up. Good luck.
I followed your steps, will the flywheel only lock when it’s on timing? I put the locking tool in and it did not lock the fly wheel, I flipped it and tried different methods but nothing
The flywheel locking tool that fits in the starter engages in the ring gear on the flywheel. When you fit the locking tool you have to do it with feeling, making sure that the teeth on the locking tool engage on the teeth on the ring gear. Move it up and down until you feel it slide in further when the teeth line up, If the teeth aren't engaged they it will slip as soon as you apply torque to the crankshaft.
So you actually have to remove the crank pulley? From the video, I can't see why you can't get to the cam drive to swap the belt.
Great video
Yes, unfortunately, the pulley has to be removed to release the belt. If they had thought through the design of the plastic timing cover they could have avoided this onerous step.
Thanks@@razenby . I'll be doing all this next weekend.
Yes! I forgot to follow up @Birdman Junior . I didn't realize the crank shaft holding tool wasn't in the kit I bought, so I had to order one and wait on that to come in when I already had it part way torn down...in my ex wife's driveway 😂
But I got it all done, did a road trip a few days later. Then a track day a few days after that 👍
Perhaps you suppose pulling the timing belt tensioner hold pin before the crank bolt is tightened to be best? I imagine that to get the belt tension exact that crank pulley may need to spin a slight bit to pull the tension from the opposing side , then tighten down.
The crank stays locked by the starter ring locking tool. No relative movement is allowed.
@@razenby oh. I haven’t actually done this job yet, but I understood there was no key way to pin the crank gear. Thought that it might free spin.
@@Dogpool You need the crankshaft locking tool. See video.
@@Dogpool the locking tool is adjustable so you can lock on exact TDC. Never seen a starter ring gear come loose on this engine.
The one I just did was a 2014 fusion 1.6. On that model there was nothing holding the crankshaft belt gear from spinning when the bolt was out. In that case if I were to tighten the bolt before I had the timing belt at the proper tension, there might be some slack on the back side of the belt. This would be taken up by maybe a half or so tooth of movement , making it just slightly off exact. I didn’t actually read this anywhere, but am postulating that pulling the tensioner pin before you tighten the crank pulley is the right play.
Quick 1: is the flywheel locking tool strong enough to sustain the torque from loosening/torquing the crankshaft pulley bolt ( M14 at 74 lb-ft or 100 Nm ). Awesome vid , lovely accent ;-)
Thanks. Yes the lock is very strong but you need to take care that it is properly engaged. Do this by sliding the mount up and down until you feel the dog on the lock post slide in and fully engage in a valley on the ring gear. Then tighten up the 3 bolts. Worth taking your time over this step.
no , the clamping kit we bought from eBay wasn't fit for purpose, after spending many hour locking everything into position, cutting the belt and started undoing the pulley bolt the flywheel holding tool snapped very easily !!! we were horrified ! we aren't experienced with engine timings and just watched the main crank move!!! ended up taking the sump cover off then could see the fly wheel, we then made our own tool to hold it.
14.11 if you don't have this negative torx bit just tighten two nuts on the thread together to get grip on the thing!
Bolts like these are very common these days.
Where did you get the camshaft locking tool? I can't find any engine specific ones
I still have it if you want it. I think it was from the ford special tool reference in the manual. Sadly I don't have the manual any more.
Hello brother! I need your helping, please. I have to replace water pump on my ford fusion 1.6L ecoboost. I took off the crank pulley before installing TDC pin ( without TDC pin ). I turned the crankshaft 1 rotation and 2 camshafts did not turn, and I deflected timing marks of the crankshaft and the camshaft. Right now, how I can align correctly the timing marks again. Can you show me how to do it? Please 🙏🙏🙏
Ohh ohh
Be careful turning the crank if the cams aren't locked you might hit a an open valve. If you turn the cams so that the timing marks are as shown in the manual then fit the locking plate then you should be back on track. Note if the engine was running when the belt broke then it has likely to have bent a valve.
Great video just going to do mine, do you know what timing set you used there are a lot around and I am not sure which one to get. Thanks
Sorry I don't. I looked it up from the Ford Special Tool part number.
Thanks for the reply, I don’t suppose you could put a link to the Ford special tool page?
where did you buy the camshaft locking tool please there are so many various ones i am a little lost to be honest
Find the enigine number of your car and search the Ford Camshaft locking tool for you engine. The engine identifier is part of the chassis number
HELP!!!!! you totally skipped the part where you take the crankshaft pulley off. there is no tool that fits a 4 hole crankshaft pulley to pull it off. What tool did you use?
Once the bolt was undone it just pulls off. It isn't on a taper.. It should spin freely when unbolted as there is no key. Tappy-Tap-Tap Time.......
Is this applicable for the diesel 1.6 TDCI engine as well? Me and my dad were going to have a go.
It will be a very similar but procedure but as I haven't done the TDCI I cant really advise. Good luck.
Honestly most of this is applicable to the Fiesta ST as well which is this engine + turbocharger. Surprisingly helpful to me because there wasnt a good procedure video for the ST in particular besides this one where they do a buttload of extra steps.
Hello brother👋
When you have to do this job ? After how many miles after you driven or how old you’re car or Which one come first ? My car is 2013 registered Ford Fiesta Diesel Titanium.
I believe the recommendation from Ford was every 80.000 miles or 8 years, They keep changing the recommendation. My rule of thumb is 60K miles or 6 years,
Do you need to use cam locking bar or can you just leave valve cover on and use the vvti locking tool
The cam locking bar need not be used. The engine has variable cam timing so the relation of the cam sprockets to the camshafts is varied by the engine management system. If the sprocket locking tool slips off and you loose the registration then you will need both the cam locking and the sprocket locking tools to re-time the Cams.
@@razenby thanks very much .. so don't let the locking tool slip of then eh
Your not living in the past (comment aroung 21.35) i own two cars currently (chain) and have owned others in the past the two cars with chains i own is the VW EA888 1.8 engine fitted to VW polo and some Audi vehicles and a Mazda 2.2 Diesel, I look for cars with chains so i dont get this headache, my last car that also had a chain 2.0 Petrol Mazda engine i drove over 120,000 miles and shes still kicking around, Mazea petrol engines are bomb proof, Diesels hummmm, I am watching this video because a customer of mine wants me to change the belt on his fiesta, Looking at this video i think the VW 1,4 tsi timing chain i changed last year was easier. great video this is.
I know what you mean, apart from a thermostat and a glow plug, my B class diesel has done 170k with no engine service at all including the timing chain. Good luck with the job.
Trying to do this on my 1.25 zetec - can you tell me what brand your camshaft locking tool is. Thanks!
oops just realised it is early and I read Craknkshaft not camshaft. I think it is this one: www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6561
Did you do the belt ok, im going to do it on my 1.25 too.
Hello mate. Got fiestas ST 1.6 ecoboost. Changed the timing belt. The car its is cranking but not starting. Any advise please? Thanks a lot
Check the timing again!! Did you spin it over a couple by hand of times to ensure the valves and pistons are not interfering? Check all plugs and wiring connections are sound. Plus a code reader in and make sure no codes are being thrown up. Could you have got the crank 360 degrees out? Engine will turn but not start...... Double check.
On my fiesta 2011 1.6 L North America, the starter cannot be accessed without removing all the upper engine cluster. Do you think it is possible to torque the pulley bolt against the TDC pin?
No. You might get away with the use of an impact driver but if teh CAM pulleys lose registration with TDC it is a faff getting back on track.
Starter is just three bolts. Take the air box out and they're all right there.
@@stevenwebb6123 no way, I tried already, I need to take out the entire intake manifold. It was a pain, but I did the timing belt without locking the flywheel. I fear the moment I will have to change the starter
Hi. On these tensioners do you only do the bolt hand tight then pull the pin. After that then tighten ? What is is like 30nm
That is the idea. I am not sure on the torque. 30nM sounds about right for an 8MM bolt. Do the bolt up tight. The tension is applied by spring not by locking the arm in postiton with the bolt.
@@razenby thank you as I work for vw our tensioners are tensioned once using the force of the nut. But I was un sure with fords but after a bit of research I've found once you remove the belt you located the new tensioner tighten the bolt and done. Fit belt pull pin. It's spring loaded. Thanks 👍
Don't you have to reset the VCT? or recalibrate it after doing this?
no. everything is in same relative angular position afterward,
My girlfriends car is a Fiesta zetec s 1.6 2010, in the service book it shows the belt & water pump had been done at 80k in 2017. by Ford main dealer. Now on 100k, do you know if it should be replaced again? How much would a garage charge roughly also. Thanks, helpful video but I don't think I'll attempt it
When you say belt do you mean the cam belt with teeth or the smooth Aux drive belt? The cam belt replacement interval is ~80K miles or 10 years. The Aux belts last about 50K. So it seems you are golden for a while. You can inspect the Aux belt - look at the pulley side (inside) of the belt for cracks and missing parts of the ridges. It should be a smooth continuous ridged surface.
@@razenby I'm not sure now actually, so Ford have stamped & written 'Cambelt & water pump' at 76k in 2017, fast forward to 2020 at 99k a different garage (private garage) has written 'Timing belt!' A few lines under where it looks like he charged £100 to do a 'C/O service'
Was your breaker bar 1/2 or 3/4"". I had to abandon my last attempt at this job on my wifes 59 reg 1.4 Fiesta Mk6. (yes 59 reg MK6) due to time constrains, not having the crankshaft locking tool, and my ratchet and extensions in severe bend and torsion. Its great to see someone remove the crankbolt without an impact wrench. Shame you didnt show the struggles with undoing and tightening the crankbolt becouse it would have been the only one on the intenet. Well done anyway
1/2" I do have a 3/4" but rarely use it.
thanks@@razenby
Hi mate, dont you have to change the oil seal together as well?
Good pint. My approach is: If it isn't leaking then leave well alone. A new belt will be due in 5 years. The OEM seals are good and the thermoplastic elastomer has advanced in the last 20 years.. Beware cheap aftermarket seals. I buy mine from a local bearing supplier. They have real industrial brands at a lower price. I have a mercedes from new with 190k on the clock. The engine is as dry as bone. On an older car then maybe yes.
@@razenby Good point, looks to be a pain to get the cam gear out as well. Thanks for the reply
so do you not need to use the locking plate at the back of the cams? I assumed that was necessary to keep the clutches in the right place (my first VVT)
If the rotational relative position of the pulleys is maintained the the cams by definition will be correctly positioned and the rear locking plate is irrelevant. . The rear locking plate is to lock the actual camshafts at TDC so you can set the the pulleys. If you lose the positions of the pulleys (say the locking tool slips off) then you will need the rear CAM locking tool to reset the cam/pulley positions. If you prefer to use both you can.
@@razenby wish I'd asked before taking the major faff rocker cover off! Presumably you lowered the engine a bit to get to the crank bolt, is it hard to restrain the motor when heaving with the mount off?
@@mikejagger2462 The motor is plenty firm enough with the top mount removed. You need to support it though.
@@razenby many thanks, if you like a Stones show I'll sort you a ticket - if it ever recovers!
@@mikejagger2462 Do I like stones.. we play their songs in our Band!!!
Please I’m a mechanic from Ghana and I was removing water pump on Ford Fusion today and I I didn’t lock the crankshaft before I lose the crank bolt,
So please I want to ask what will happen
You must reset the crankshaft and the cams to be in correct positions before you put the tooth belt back on. If they are not set correctly the valves will hit the pistons. It is what is called an interference engine.
Your not a mechanic...
@@13panda13 Thank you. It would be an insult to call me a mechanic. I am in fact a chartered engineer, my status and skills are way, way, way above that of a mechanic !!!
@@razenby?? Umm, I was talking about the dill from Ghana.
@@13panda13 Aha, I thought that might be the case... I guess he is doing his best with limited resources..
Can you tell me is the 1.6 DOHC a non interference? My belt snapped on a car I bought
Interference engine I believe..sorry
Did you bother locking the flywheel for when you torque the crank back down?
Yes- see video - I took the starter out and locked the flywheel with a locking tool. The problem with the ford is the TDC flywheel pin that screws in from the back of the block is very thin and easily bent. If you can get a socket on the crank pulley bolt you might be able to get away with using an impact driver without the ring gear locking tool fitted. Good luck. The most important thing to remember is to hand crank over and check the timing is correct before you start the engine..
hey now that you've done this you might be ready to replace the cabin air filter
I did several times. Which bit are you stuck with?
@@razenby ~ Oh no I'm just projecting, it was a monumental pain (compared to the same job on a honda) but I did manage.
I wonder how to loosen it if it gets stuck? Mine so hard to loosen
If what gets stuck?
@@razenby crankshaft bolt..
C'est bon
Merci
Well done sir
Thanks for watching.
Note to everyone the crankshaft gear is NOT keyed. Make sure you do not turn the crankshaft without the bolt in tight or you'll be in for an engine. Bloody good video though, thanks mate
Yes as stated in the video.
@@razenby yeah sorry I hadn't gotten that far when I commented I just heard you knew it might not be keywayed. Like I said great video I had to do this same job and I was stumped trying to read the directions with the tool and this cleared up everything
Why is the engine so noisy.?
The bonnet is open. It sounds OK in real life.
Can't u just loosen the belt tenioner slip the belt over the bottom pully the repaet the prossess
No, the lower part of the cam belt cover prevents belt removal, the pulley prevents the removal of the cover. So the lower cover has to be removed.