Really great instruction - thank you so much. If you do futures videos, which I hope you will you don't need the over music - it just adds a level of stress in trying to listen to your voice. Great job and very helpful for beginners.
Hello! Thanks for your feedback. As I have mentioned a couple of times, these were some of the first videos I did and I have learned SO much since then. Definitely not using music now - hahah!!!
😁 Glad I could help! I have another video with some ideas of how to learn more about it with some good books and instructors I've met along the way. Hope you have fun with your accidental kiln!!! ruclips.net/video/28djV12rJPI/видео.htmlsi=4V9fVxVXOMEaxoW4
I'm sorry, I don't mean to be rude, but informative. I have several videos on youtube as well and have had a few quite frank remarks learn and move on my motto. I have watched all of your 4 enameling videos always learning something new to add to my 40-plus years in the jewelry business. Respectfully Yours Mike E... Very Nice Job on videos
Thank you. I am glad you enjoyed the rest of the videos sans music 😁 It really is terrible and a mistake so many starting on their video production journey seem to make. Something I've learned when delivering constructive criticism is to sandwich it with thoughtful truth that points out two good things. Maybe this can help you, too, when helping others? I'll be sure to check your videos out. Always love to learn!
Thank you Chris. You did such a great job with explaining a lot of info about the basics. You showed much poise in speaking. So, I have subscribed and am moving onto the first project. btw, I am crazy about Bitter green, too! One of my first experiments was on a 3" shallow copper dish. I fired 2 coats of Foundation White #1030, Then sifted Bitter Green #1319, fired it, sifted a 2nd coat to which I added a few little chunks of "Opal Jewel Effect 2001" fr Enamel Warehouse, which I fired long enough for the chunks to completely melt into the bottom, leaving sml milky white blobs. Not much opalescence though. I'm going to try it again and not fire long enough to completely liquify the chunks, as I want an uneven texture and I want to see if the opal effect is more prominent. But the bitter green over white was yummy. btw, I counterenamled the back side of the copper with a few firings of Transparent brown #743, which fires beautifully over the copper. It's my preferred copper counter enamel. I look forward to learning from you. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills. pam
@@10Gables you're great! And yes, try the trans. brown if you get the chance. It is surprisingly beautiful and complimentary.to the copper underneath. TC, pam
Hello! Thank you for your kind words. I don't have one specifically for a kiln yet, but it is on my list :) In the meantime, one of my favorite teachers, Ricky Frank, has a great one on Rio Grande's channel here: ruclips.net/video/n7nVtkRUjfE/видео.html
Hello! I was working in a basement for this video and we do not have an external vent. This extractor uses filters. I bought mine on Amazon. It is a Xytronic 426DLX
@tatyanadelcarmencaballerol8490 it depends. For smaller pieces with one or two coats, I have successfully enameled with a butane torch. I prefer using acetylene-air with a b tank. I've also tried propane oxygen (Smith little using an oxygen concentrator and small tank of gas) but it works better with Paige tips for me. You'll need to experiment and find what works for you 💕
Hello John! Thank you for your kind words. Yes, you can enamel on PMC copper and silver. There are some considerations, however, since the resulting metal is porous. You will need to burnish the surface thoroughly (a tumbler with steel shot can help with this). And, if you are intending to cover the entire piece, you'll need to pay special attention to layer and metal thickness where the metal has peaks and valleys. This is a bit different than repousse work because the metal is generally a similar thickness. Essentially, you don't want too many variations across the surface of a piece because the coefficient of expansion principle (metal and glass expansion and contraction) will differ and can cause cracking. There is a great reference book on the subject I highly recommend by Pam East. It is called Enameling on Metal Clay. She also has some great videos, in person classes, and is an amazing person. Best wishes to you!
hello, have you ever made a sphere out of enamel? Looking to recreate a necklace that uses enamel-like beads into the satellite chain, but can't figure out how to make a ball shape
Hello! I have not personally made enamel beads, but do have a great little book I bought on how to do so from Thompson Enamel by Carol and Bob Oliver called Enamel Bead Making. Just haven't had the project need to use it yet - haha! thompsonenamel.com/product/tep-004-enamel-bead-making-by-carol-and-bob-oliver/ There are also several videos on RUclips by Barbara Lewis on enameling beads. Hope this helps!
So, you are claiming the Smith Little Torch is not good for this? I have this and the larger butane torch. I can see where the blazer wouldn't work. It seems as though so many people use these, but on copper I did have problems with soldering for metalsmithing.
Thank you for asking. The Smith little can work just fine on smaller pieces. The problem is the needle point flame. It isn't wide enough to keep heat high through the larger pieces. I have tried Paige tips and they will help, but it really is a PITA without the large, bushy flame you'd get from something like an acetylene air torch or MAPP. Hope this helps!
@@10Gables Thank you Chris. I really appreciate all your information and efforts in your videos. I am in the middle of viewing all your enameling videos. Thank you!
Hello and thank you for reaching out! I have been thinking about doing a video on 'backs' at some point for your question and others :) In the meantime, here are some ideas for you: - Try doming your piece. This not only helps with COE, it gives a wider area from enamel to edge on the backs of pieces. With the doming, the edges tend to stay 'clean' from enamel. - If you're still having trouble, after your first fire of counter enamel, try using an alundum stone (or grinding bits in a flex shaft) to carve away the glass around the bottom edge to a 45 degree angle. The goal is to clean up the edge that rests on the trivet without compromising the counter-enamel to keep the front from cracking. It's a balancing act for sure! - File the edges of your commercial trivets to knife points. I learned about this at our local enameling guild and it was a life saver! Merry Lee Rae (a wonderful cloisonne artist) has a great video about this on her RUclips channel here: ruclips.net/video/DMjPVs8cV44/видео.html It takes a lot of time, but is worth it if you find these other methods aren't cutting it. - Finally, try swiping a bit of chalk on the edges and down a little bit of the sides of your commercial trivets. If you do happen to get too much enamel on the back of your piece towards the edges, it has less chance of sticking with the chalk. I just use a cheap set of kids sidewalk chalk for this :) And, after all of this? If you've spent time working on a piece and STILL have issues? Another option is to just clean up the back when you are finished by grinding the glass even in those spots. This can work for pieces you are going to set in a closed-back bezel...but you'll know it's there and if you're like me? That just won't do! :D
Yeah, I know. Made these when very new at videos and, considering all the time it takes and that I am paid nothing? It stays. Thanks for taking the time to drop your incredibly rude comment. Hope you at least learned something about enameling that might help you. Blessings.
Really great instruction - thank you so much. If you do futures videos, which I hope you will you don't need the over music - it just adds a level of stress in trying to listen to your voice. Great job and very helpful for beginners.
Hello! Thanks for your feedback. As I have mentioned a couple of times, these were some of the first videos I did and I have learned SO much since then. Definitely not using music now - hahah!!!
what a great little video, i accidently bought a kiln the other day, and might know nothing about enameling so videos like this really help me out.
😁 Glad I could help! I have another video with some ideas of how to learn more about it with some good books and instructors I've met along the way. Hope you have fun with your accidental kiln!!! ruclips.net/video/28djV12rJPI/видео.htmlsi=4V9fVxVXOMEaxoW4
I'm sorry, I don't mean to be rude, but informative. I have several videos on youtube as well and have had a few quite frank remarks learn and move on my motto. I have watched all of your 4 enameling videos always learning something new to add to my 40-plus years in the jewelry business. Respectfully Yours Mike E... Very Nice Job on videos
Thank you. I am glad you enjoyed the rest of the videos sans music 😁 It really is terrible and a mistake so many starting on their video production journey seem to make. Something I've learned when delivering constructive criticism is to sandwich it with thoughtful truth that points out two good things. Maybe this can help you, too, when helping others? I'll be sure to check your videos out. Always love to learn!
Thank you so much for sharing, just found your channel, look forward to watching the rest of this series.
Thank you so much for your feedback. I'm glad you found the enameling videos and look forward to seeing what you make!
Very informative, thank you so much for taking the time to share with us. Much love ❤
Thank you Kaleb - I am glad you enjoyed and hope you have fun with enameling!
AMAZING! Thank you so much!
Thank you Christine Cravens♥️
Thanks, Dorene! I hope you enjoy the videos
Thank you Chris.
You did such a great job with explaining a lot of info about the basics.
You showed much poise in speaking.
So, I have subscribed and am moving onto the first project.
btw, I am crazy about Bitter green, too!
One of my first experiments was on a 3" shallow copper dish.
I fired 2 coats of Foundation White #1030,
Then sifted Bitter Green #1319, fired it, sifted a 2nd coat to which I added a few little chunks of
"Opal Jewel Effect 2001" fr Enamel Warehouse, which I fired long enough for the chunks to completely melt into the bottom, leaving sml milky white blobs. Not much opalescence though.
I'm going to try it again and not fire long enough to completely liquify the chunks, as I want an uneven texture and I want to see if the opal effect is more prominent.
But the bitter green over white was yummy.
btw, I counterenamled the back side of the copper with a few firings of Transparent brown #743, which fires beautifully over the copper. It's my preferred copper counter enamel.
I look forward to learning from you.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
pam
Thank you so much for your kind words, Pam
@@10Gables you're great!
And yes, try the trans. brown if you get the chance. It is surprisingly beautiful and complimentary.to the copper underneath.
TC,
pam
Thanks Chris!
Just found your videos and love them. Do you have one on firing in a kiln?
Hello! Thank you for your kind words. I don't have one specifically for a kiln yet, but it is on my list :) In the meantime, one of my favorite teachers, Ricky Frank, has a great one on Rio Grande's channel here: ruclips.net/video/n7nVtkRUjfE/видео.html
Hi, thanks for this video. Could you share the name of the fume extractor you are using? Also, is it vented? TIA
Hello! I was working in a basement for this video and we do not have an external vent. This extractor uses filters. I bought mine on Amazon. It is a Xytronic 426DLX
@@10Gables Thank you. I actually just ordered that one yesterday.
What gas do you use for the torch and what si e of tank
@tatyanadelcarmencaballerol8490 it depends. For smaller pieces with one or two coats, I have successfully enameled with a butane torch. I prefer using acetylene-air with a b tank. I've also tried propane oxygen (Smith little using an oxygen concentrator and small tank of gas) but it works better with Paige tips for me. You'll need to experiment and find what works for you 💕
Hi Chris John here great intro video x could you tell me if you can enamel on PMC Copper of PMC silver kind regards John
Hello John! Thank you for your kind words. Yes, you can enamel on PMC copper and silver. There are some considerations, however, since the resulting metal is porous. You will need to burnish the surface thoroughly (a tumbler with steel shot can help with this). And, if you are intending to cover the entire piece, you'll need to pay special attention to layer and metal thickness where the metal has peaks and valleys. This is a bit different than repousse work because the metal is generally a similar thickness. Essentially, you don't want too many variations across the surface of a piece because the coefficient of expansion principle (metal and glass expansion and contraction) will differ and can cause cracking. There is a great reference book on the subject I highly recommend by Pam East. It is called Enameling on Metal Clay. She also has some great videos, in person classes, and is an amazing person. Best wishes to you!
@@10Gables Thank you for the advice I will look for the Pam east book Kind regards John www.etsy.com/shop/littlehouseetsy
beautiful presentation thank you. . . horrible music however.
Yeah...this wasnone of the first videos u ever made and there are lots of issues 🤣 Thankfully I ditched the music after these.
hello, have you ever made a sphere out of enamel? Looking to recreate a necklace that uses enamel-like beads into the satellite chain, but can't figure out how to make a ball shape
Hello! I have not personally made enamel beads, but do have a great little book I bought on how to do so from Thompson Enamel by Carol and Bob Oliver called Enamel Bead Making. Just haven't had the project need to use it yet - haha! thompsonenamel.com/product/tep-004-enamel-bead-making-by-carol-and-bob-oliver/ There are also several videos on RUclips by Barbara Lewis on enameling beads.
Hope this helps!
So, you are claiming the Smith Little Torch is not good for this? I have this and the larger butane torch. I can see where the blazer wouldn't work. It seems as though so many people use these, but on copper I did have problems with soldering for metalsmithing.
Thank you for asking. The Smith little can work just fine on smaller pieces. The problem is the needle point flame. It isn't wide enough to keep heat high through the larger pieces. I have tried Paige tips and they will help, but it really is a PITA without the large, bushy flame you'd get from something like an acetylene air torch or MAPP. Hope this helps!
@@10Gables Thank you Chris. I really appreciate all your information and efforts in your videos. I am in the middle of viewing all your enameling videos. Thank you!
i can you tell me how I can stop getting trivet marks when I counter enamel the marks are from where the piece touches the trivet
Thanks
Hello and thank you for reaching out! I have been thinking about doing a video on 'backs' at some point for your question and others :) In the meantime, here are some ideas for you:
- Try doming your piece. This not only helps with COE, it gives a wider area from enamel to edge on the backs of pieces. With the doming, the edges tend to stay 'clean' from enamel.
- If you're still having trouble, after your first fire of counter enamel, try using an alundum stone (or grinding bits in a flex shaft) to carve away the glass around the bottom edge to a 45 degree angle. The goal is to clean up the edge that rests on the trivet without compromising the counter-enamel to keep the front from cracking. It's a balancing act for sure!
- File the edges of your commercial trivets to knife points. I learned about this at our local enameling guild and it was a life saver! Merry Lee Rae (a wonderful cloisonne artist) has a great video about this on her RUclips channel here: ruclips.net/video/DMjPVs8cV44/видео.html It takes a lot of time, but is worth it if you find these other methods aren't cutting it.
- Finally, try swiping a bit of chalk on the edges and down a little bit of the sides of your commercial trivets. If you do happen to get too much enamel on the back of your piece towards the edges, it has less chance of sticking with the chalk. I just use a cheap set of kids sidewalk chalk for this :)
And, after all of this? If you've spent time working on a piece and STILL have issues? Another option is to just clean up the back when you are finished by grinding the glass even in those spots. This can work for pieces you are going to set in a closed-back bezel...but you'll know it's there and if you're like me? That just won't do! :D
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question. Great video’s
do a big favor and get rid of the music
Yeah, I know. Made these when very new at videos and, considering all the time it takes and that I am paid nothing? It stays. Thanks for taking the time to drop your incredibly rude comment. Hope you at least learned something about enameling that might help you. Blessings.
please turn off that annoying music though
Yup! These were my first videos before I had a clue and they are free, yet take hours to re-do...so it stays 😁