The fact that you are cutting so slowly and the sawdust is very fine means that you need to file down your rake teeth to get a better bite. The saw can be really sharp but if it can't take a bite with its sharp teeth, then you get slow cuts and fine sawdust, as in your video. I was doing the same thing for too long. Once I discovered the problem, my life got a whole lot easier!
I have never used a Chainsaw Mill, but have used a Mobile Dimensional Saw. Also a company in Australia makes the Lucas Mill, which comes with a slabbing attachment
A chainsaw mill is just much smaller and simpler version of the Lucas Mill. Great for making planks and beams but requires extra cutting for dimensional lumber.
Hey Gary That sounds like quite the setup. I would love to see a picture of that. I always find it fascinating the ingenuity people can come up with to make their lives easier. Good job.
Thanks for the comment. Just trying to inspire people to get outside so that they may see or do something new. You are never to old to learn and should never be scared to try.
Nice work. I've had the pleasure of cutting many, many board feet with Alaska saw mill. After a friend and I pushed the first couple boards. "Pain in the ass" I developed a pulley system. One adjustable pulley before the log to pull straight on the saw. This pulley was mounted to a Carabiner that quickly hooked into the holes of a piece of Half Slot Strut Channel, bolted to base of tree. One pulley mounted in the tree, a few more feet up then the length of the cut, a foot or two out on a stout or reinforced branch. 5 gallon bucket with as many rocks as it took to pull the saw just right for the size of cut and sharpness of saw. Only a couple rock difference for any one cut. One counter balance weight on the Alaska saw mill jig and a nylon tie that slipped over saw trigger. 2 hose clamps on Alaska saw mill bar, that kept the Carabiner that is hooked to rope that attached to the bucket, centered to pull saw straight. Start cut till saw stays on log, put weight on jig, pull Carabiner to saw, weighted bucket goes up in tree. Clip Carabiner to Sawmill jig, pull nylon tie over trigger. Step back, drink coffee till cut is complete. Better smoother cut than you and I pushing and wiggling saw. Saw appropriately slows for knots, dulling, and width of cut. Speeds up automatically. Lower pulley on Half slot Strut Channel for level pull on next cut and repeat. Use to also do a top cut, turn log so top cut faced 90 degrees to saw. than all planks had on fished edge. My saw was Stihl MS 880 with long bar from 044, smaller kerf.
I have a mill coming in the next week or so and your pulley system is just awesome. Great idea, and I love the tip about a top cut then turning the log!
I have placed a small boat winch on my mill loaded with stretchy rope. I run the rope from the mill to a pulley fastened at the far end of the log and then back to the mill. It takes only two fingers to run the mill through the log. The stretch is so you don’t jamb the chain by putting too much pressure on the mill.
I had a comment at one point that a user attaches a pully and weight to a tree so as the weight drops it pulls the mill along and he doesn't need to touch it all. Sit back and watch it cut. All great helps for sure.
Love the idea looks like it will be a lot of pain on someone’s back bending over but install some small levels on both sides of your ladder so when you screw your ladder it will be even on both side for a straight cut the first 👍 nice video
Jacob Blake I don’t understand why you would need to install levels for the first cut. As long as it’s flat all other cuts will be flat relative to that one.
Big Woodsman ...thanks...planning a similar ladder based jig & saw this. A light aluminum ladder seems like a ready made guide waiting to happen. One could build all kinds of functionality into a ladder based mill. ✌️
@@phantomcreamer it’s pretty simple it you cut everything to 10’ leave the ladder 12’ long. A foot over hand on ether end, that way the ladder can support the mill as it starts its cut and finishes.
I agree, and you could make the angle stock adjustable for length by drilling a couple holes in your angle stock and using self tapping screws to attach it to your ladder
Good job with your ladder and jig. Keep it up. Maybe give up on the harp so you can cut more slabs. I think the chainsaw sounds better than the harp. LOL
Ron I will be posting another video shortly on how to do exactly that. How to fix your ladder firmly so it extends out past the ends. When you subscribe, hit the alert button and you will be notified when it gets posted.
Can't really give an accurate answer as this all depends on a lot of criteria like chain sharpness, type of wood, amount of knots and foreign items maybe imbedded like metal or dirt. On average a tank of fuel for each 2 boards, I sharpen as needed. You can tell when it needs to be done by the sawdust and the effort it takes.
A 14' ladder would make that easier. It would overhang the 12' log you are working on, and make sure both your end cuts are nice and flat with no variation.
Hey V Star. Check out my other video where I show you how to upgrade a ladder to do exactly what you are speaking about. I'm not too critical of the ends being perfect as I would remove these for dimensional lumber anyway due to end checking.
I have some Holly timber in log form yet, as well as some Cedar still standing just waiting to be made into dimensional lumber which is why I'm checking out these kind of videos. I will take a look at the other one as well. Thanks for the feedback.
V Star 1300 Adventures I have milled a lot of Cedar for live edge siding on my cabin. Cuts nicely but its a dirty tree. It will require multiple sharpens. Hope the videos will help you. Love to see some pics sometime.
Questions. The first board was cut to what thickness? I've got Cherry that needs milling and I'm looking for a chain saw mill. It does take quite a while to cut the boards with the chain saw. I went to your channel because I want to use a ladder myself as the log leveling system.
I cut the first piece 1/2" thicker than the ladder. Take off the top cap and then you can start cutting boards at whatever thickness you need. From there you will have to edge them if you want dimensional lumber. Good luck.
C Kobesko If you are planning on using the lumber for tables you have a couple options. Kiln dried takes days to have the lumber ready depending on species and size where most people air dry them but it takes much longer. All depends on how quickly you want to use the lumber.
New video posted on how to upgrade your ladder so you can cut logs of any length. Make sure to subscribe and click notifications so you know when new videos are up.
How do you take out the taper in the log if one side of the log is larger at the other end? You need to level your track system! Plus your chain is dull. You’re spitting out sawdust!
Normally I don't bother. I try and pick logs that have little taper. White Cedar is bad for this. After edging it to dimensional lumber it doesn't matter but in this case I wanted live edge irregular boards.
If you can get your pickup on site you can tow in a trailer mounted bandsaw mill. The result will be less waste of fuel and wood. It will also be a lot faster.
Does this style mill, that only attaches to the bar near the power head, produce boards of constant thickness across the entire width? It seems to me the style that also clamps near the bar end would keep the mill more parallel to the saw bar, but the clamp at the end takes about 4" of sawing width away. (A nominal 24" mill could only do about 20" max width boards.)
This mill is meant for smaller wood and as long as you have a sharp chain it will track straight. As soon as things dull or you don't sharpen each tooth the same it may create one edge thinner than the other. Make sure you cut larger than what you need and any changes can be planed out. For larger slabs I would certainly use a mill that has 2 points of contact.
The more you can level everything the better off you are however as long as the ladder gets attached flat and level to the log then the mill will track from point on.
Just made a chainsaw mill out of scrap . A guild that follows a 2x4 , I think one like yours would be more accurate . Or instead of using a wooded beam use steel . Along wooden 2x4 bends to easy and skews the cut on long logs .
That makes sense. I have never really had to worry about it as the ladder is dead straight. When I mentioned it in the video I should have said not level end to end.
It's pretty easy to go beyond live edge if you have access to a planer. Watch my other video on sawing logs into beams for how to reference a log to start making straight edge planks whatever width you want. From there cut them 4/4 which is 1" thick then you can plane down to a 3/4" finished product. Good luck.
You're getting too much sawdust and few if any wood chips. Obviously you don't have a good ripping chain...it may not have even been reground for ripping. Ripping saw chains should be ground straight across, NOT at the 30 or 35 degree angle that crosscut chains come from the factory with. Find a regular sawmill saw and look at the teeth. They are sharpened straight across. I was a Boeing Company Tool Grinder for 30 years, so when it comes to angles, I know very well what I'm telling you about.
Kaye Bryan you will not get chips when milling with a chainsaw buddy, you will get saw dust. Your going with the grain of the wood, cross cutting produces chips. Ripping chain is ground 5-10 degrees.
Is 5-10 degrees the rake angle beneath/for the cutting edge? The ripping chain I resharpened, starting with a new chain, was straight across...zero degrees...which is exactly what you will see if you take the time to find and examine a large circular saw at a sawmill. You must be one of those hammer-headed evangelical/Deplorables who voted for Fuhrer Trump, America's first Fascist wannabe dictator.
Kaye Bryan You've obviously been milling your wood wrong if your getting chips opposed to dust. Oregon's ripping chain comes ground at 10°, not 0°. Fresh out of the box it produces fine sawdust on all species I've touched with it: Red/yellow cedar, Arbutus, Doug fir, Spruce, Pine..... Being a Boeing grinder for 30 yrs I'm sure you'd understand the basics of a cutter tooth cutting across the end of the grain and see why it would be impossible to produce a chip. Also aircraft materials act completely different than wood while being machined so I don't think your "expertise" necessarily transfers over here bud
Hi, I get mostly chips instead of mostly sawdust because I regrind a new chain to the same angles as a large diameter sawmill saw. The cutting edge is ground straight across (parallel to the center line of the shaft the saw blade is mounted on), and with a rake angle being measured in degrees from a line drawn across the diameter of the saw blade. It's been awhile since I cut any lumber with a chain saw lumber mill so I don't remember the number of degrees, other than the angle is at least 10 degrees positive. If you have access to a regular saw mill blade, take a protractor and measure that angle. Make sure the part of your protractor that you place on the periphery of the saw blade is TANGENT to the line across the diameter of the blade. Otherwise, your reading in degrees won't be accurate. While you're measuring, check the angle of the surface behind the cutting edge. In tool grinding parlance, that surface is the primary land. On a metal-cutting end mill, that clearance angle depends upon the material being machined: Cast iron, 4 or 5 degrees. Steel, 6 to 10 degrees depending upon the alloy. Aluminum and titanium, 10 to 12 degrees. Behind the primary land is a secondary land. The width of the primary land is usually no more than 1/32 of an inch (.032"). However, because the primary land is also a 'heat-sink', some materials require a wider width. In Great Britain, reel lawnmowers have the reels spun or 'circle-ground' leaving the individual reel blades the same diameter front-to-back and with no 'run-out' around the circumference of the reel. Then, that portion of the blade behind the leading edge is 'backed off', leaving a primary land that is no more than .010" wide or one-fourth of a millimeter. The following is from my Oregon chainsaw maintenance manual (published in 1981) and pertains to the shape of the saw chain teeth. All are front view. Super Chisel: square-shaped. Super 70: square-shaped. Super Guard: square-shaped. The new chain you bought with the 10 degree angle. My guess is that the manufacturer didn't include an extra step that would involve sharpening the sides of the individual teeth, so used the 10 degree angle instead...saving money. You really should find a large diameter traditional saw mill saw blade and closely inspect, and measure, every aspect of the teeth. Kaye Bryan
Kaye Bryan you tried to offer advice that pertains strictly to circular saw mills.... This guy is milling with a chainsaw mill, I'm talking about chainsaw mills, the other guy above is talking about chainsaw mills. Oregon is a reputable manufacturer that produces a myriad of chains specific to various applications, I think they've got their engineering figured out. And yes the sides of my milling chains cutters are sharpened. While the information you posted about circular mills is probably correct, you're dead wrong about buddies sawdust and his chainsaw mill. Just leave it.... Apples to Oranges bud, you can't compare.
You can tell by the small sawdust your chain is very dull. Good video just need a sharpening job. When the sawdust is so small it shows a dull chain. If it was sharp it would come out as more chip than dust.
Hey Loooseunit I have upgraded my powerplant. Check out my other videos and you can see it in action. Works much better but I couldn't argue with that saw at the time.
@@joshsoorlin579 The bar length is more or less governed by the type and size of mill you have. With that said it is always helpful to have more power at your disposal. It makes for an easier cut.
Not ever having experienced use of one,,,, MAN that looks like you used more fuel and time getting through that first pass then you'd have spent going and just buying a board. Your bar may need leveling,, looked like it may have been cutting down away from your rails, would put it in possible bind. And your chain may need sharpening or replaced for a rip cut version. Either way, if you only need one board great work, but if you need more,, ya got more work than I believe you have time on the planet to live.
I guess the big thing to remember here is that they are a portable sawmill. Emphasis on "portable". I needed planks and had no way to get the logs out of the bush to the sawmill so we take the sawmill to the logs. I use it quite alot and it has paid for itself numerous times over. Everyone should have one.
Standing in a dangerous position, would do better to be standing beside and in front, pulling than behind. Having said that, I very much like the simplicity of it. This is the design I'm going to try myself.
Definitely give this is try. It may seem like a dangerous position but once you use it you will see the bar is mostly in the log virtually eliminating kickback and the device has a pretty substantial guard for safety. Having said that you should treat all chainsaws with respect as they can be a dangerous tool and take constant control.
Yes it is a slow process but it's not meant to be the fastest system out there but it is ridiculously portable when you are working remotely. That's the key.
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Thankyou for making your demonstration so easy to follow. Not complicated at all
Try inserting some wedges along the cut as you go. It will keep that board from dropping behind you. Cutting will be easier without the pinch.
Yeah he’s pinching his timber and cutting very slow for the size of log. He’s probably not using a ripping chain either.
using a ladder is the best top board ive seen yet im going to be using a ladder from here on
That's what caught my attention too. I just wish I could have heard what he was saying.
That's a sweet setup
The fact that you are cutting so slowly and the sawdust is very fine means that you need to file down your rake teeth to get a better bite. The saw can be really sharp but if it can't take a bite with its sharp teeth, then you get slow cuts and fine sawdust, as in your video. I was doing the same thing for too long. Once I discovered the problem, my life got a whole lot easier!
It's been 4yrs maybe by now you know the difference between a ripped and a sawin chain
Works even better with a sharpened chain
Yeah, any time a chainsaw is making sawdust and not slash, it's time to grab the ol' rattail file... Still, it's an informative video.
Nice job.
Adding a 3thd bar in cross direction, in the middle of the 2 other cross bars, would be helpful to keep the system parallel with the ladder.
I have never used a Chainsaw Mill, but have used a Mobile Dimensional Saw. Also a company in Australia makes the Lucas Mill, which comes with a slabbing attachment
A chainsaw mill is just much smaller and simpler version of the Lucas Mill. Great for making planks and beams but requires extra cutting for dimensional lumber.
Hey Gary
That sounds like quite the setup. I would love to see a picture of that. I always find it fascinating the ingenuity people can come up with to make their lives easier. Good job.
Great video and step by step. You’ve nailed your message too.. “There’s Life Out There In The Woods”
Thanks for the comment. Just trying to inspire people to get outside so that they may see or do something new. You are never to old to learn and should never be scared to try.
Now I like this set up. Better than the others I have seen.
Nice work. I've had the pleasure of cutting many, many board feet with Alaska saw mill. After a friend and I pushed the first couple boards. "Pain in the ass" I developed a pulley system.
One adjustable pulley before the log to pull straight on the saw. This pulley was mounted to a Carabiner that quickly hooked into the holes of a piece of Half Slot Strut Channel, bolted to base of tree. One pulley mounted in the tree, a few more feet up then the length of the cut, a foot or two out on a stout or reinforced branch. 5 gallon bucket with as many rocks as it took to pull the saw just right for the size of cut and sharpness of saw. Only a couple rock difference for any one cut. One counter balance weight on the Alaska saw mill jig and a nylon tie that slipped over saw trigger. 2 hose clamps on Alaska saw mill bar, that kept the Carabiner that is hooked to rope that attached to the bucket, centered to pull saw straight.
Start cut till saw stays on log, put weight on jig, pull Carabiner to saw, weighted bucket goes up in tree. Clip Carabiner to Sawmill jig, pull nylon tie over trigger. Step back, drink coffee till cut is complete. Better smoother cut than you and I pushing and wiggling saw. Saw appropriately slows for knots, dulling, and width of cut. Speeds up automatically.
Lower pulley on Half slot Strut Channel for level pull on next cut and repeat.
Use to also do a top cut, turn log so top cut faced 90 degrees to saw. than all planks had on fished edge.
My saw was Stihl MS 880 with long bar from 044, smaller kerf.
I have a mill coming in the next week or so and your pulley system is just awesome. Great idea, and I love the tip about a top cut then turning the log!
I have found one system that makes the saw go through like butter and not need any pulleys.
@@HAMMERDOWNFRAMER ok great , details?
I have placed a small boat winch on my mill loaded with stretchy rope. I run the rope from the mill to a pulley fastened at the far end of the log and then back to the mill. It takes only two fingers to run the mill through the log. The stretch is so you don’t jamb the chain by putting too much pressure on the mill.
I had a comment at one point that a user attaches a pully and weight to a tree so as the weight drops it pulls the mill along and he doesn't need to touch it all. Sit back and watch it cut. All great helps for sure.
Love the idea looks like it will be a lot of pain on someone’s back bending over but install some small levels on both sides of your ladder so when you screw your ladder it will be even on both side for a straight cut the first 👍 nice video
Jacob Blake I don’t understand why you would need to install levels for the first cut. As long as it’s flat all other cuts will be flat relative to that one.
Cool...just poked around your channel a little. Dig it, man. And when my saw mill is going, I’m gonna take up axe throwing. ✌️
Nice to have you aboard. I will be posting some more sawmill videos soon. Subscribe and hit notifications so you know when they are up.
Big Woodsman ...thanks...planning a similar ladder based jig & saw this. A light aluminum ladder seems like a ready made guide waiting to happen. One could build all kinds of functionality into a ladder based mill. ✌️
Nice. Wedging the slab might result in easier cutting.
That guy is HUGE!!!!
I’d you keep the ladder a foot longer at both ends you don’t have to worries about keeping the cut lavel as the mills supposed 👍🏻
I was just about to post the same suggestion
Can someone repeat this without typos? I'm curious, but cannot decipher the info.
@@phantomcreamer it’s pretty simple it you cut everything to 10’ leave the ladder 12’ long. A foot over hand on ether end, that way the ladder can support the mill as it starts its cut and finishes.
@@focirs7484 got it, thanks!
I agree, and you could make the angle stock adjustable for length by drilling a couple holes in your angle stock and using self tapping screws to attach it to your ladder
Good job with your ladder and jig. Keep it up. Maybe give up on the harp so you can cut more slabs. I think the chainsaw sounds better than the harp. LOL
love the ladder idea
Ron
I will be posting another video shortly on how to do exactly that. How to fix your ladder firmly so it extends out past the ends. When you subscribe, hit the alert button and you will be notified when it gets posted.
Good job! Are you change degrees for chain from 45 to 10 or 15 ???? You have a great time
Good job bro 👍
How much gas / bar oil do you go through for taking slab wood off? Have to sharpen rip chain often?
Can't really give an accurate answer as this all depends on a lot of criteria like chain sharpness, type of wood, amount of knots and foreign items maybe imbedded like metal or dirt. On average a tank of fuel for each 2 boards, I sharpen as needed. You can tell when it needs to be done by the sawdust and the effort it takes.
Nice video :) I've been looking for ways that this is done. Your method seems like it works very well. Thanks!
A 14' ladder would make that easier. It would overhang the 12' log you are working on, and make sure both your end cuts are nice and flat with no variation.
Hey V Star. Check out my other video where I show you how to upgrade a ladder to do exactly what you are speaking about. I'm not too critical of the ends being perfect as I would remove these for dimensional lumber anyway due to end checking.
I have some Holly timber in log form yet, as well as some Cedar still standing just waiting to be made into dimensional lumber which is why I'm checking out these kind of videos. I will take a look at the other one as well. Thanks for the feedback.
V Star 1300 Adventures
I have milled a lot of Cedar for live edge siding on my cabin. Cuts nicely but its a dirty tree. It will require multiple sharpens. Hope the videos will help you. Love to see some pics sometime.
I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the heads up.
Questions. The first board was cut to what thickness? I've got Cherry that needs milling and I'm looking for a chain saw mill. It does take quite a while to cut the boards with the chain saw. I went to your channel because I want to use a ladder myself as the log leveling system.
I cut the first piece 1/2" thicker than the ladder. Take off the top cap and then you can start cutting boards at whatever thickness you need. From there you will have to edge them if you want dimensional lumber. Good luck.
Hey Verne. Ive tried a lot of things from planks to 2x4's as rails etc. but the trusty old ladder wins my vote everytime.
Big Woodsman 1r
C Kobesko
If you are planning on using the lumber for tables you have a couple options. Kiln dried takes days to have the lumber ready depending on species and size where most people air dry them but it takes much longer. All depends on how quickly you want to use the lumber.
New video posted on how to upgrade your ladder so you can cut logs of any length. Make sure to subscribe and click notifications so you know when new videos are up.
How do you take out the taper in the log if one side of the log is larger at the other end? You need to level your track system! Plus your chain is dull. You’re spitting out sawdust!
Normally I don't bother. I try and pick logs that have little taper. White Cedar is bad for this. After edging it to dimensional lumber it doesn't matter but in this case I wanted live edge irregular boards.
That is one awesome idea!!! 😍😍😍👍👊
I couldn't watch all of it but that was struggling a lot. Did he replace the chain with a ripping chain?
This was my first video using the Alaskan Mill. Since then I have changed saws, tried different makes of ripping chain. Fined tuned it quite a bit.
@@BigWoodsman yeah it was great video. Things always need some fine tuning. Thanks for the great content.
If you can get your pickup on site you can tow in a trailer mounted bandsaw mill. The result will be less waste of fuel and wood. It will also be a lot faster.
He cant afford a sawmill obviously.
There was no way of getting a machine to this tree unfortunately. I had to carry each board out of the bush by hand.
Yes it is a ripping chain but the power plant could be bigger.
Does this style mill, that only attaches to the bar near the power head, produce boards of constant thickness across the entire width? It seems to me the style that also clamps near the bar end would keep the mill more parallel to the saw bar, but the clamp at the end takes about 4" of sawing width away. (A nominal 24" mill could only do about 20" max width boards.)
This mill is meant for smaller wood and as long as you have a sharp chain it will track straight. As soon as things dull or you don't sharpen each tooth the same it may create one edge thinner than the other. Make sure you cut larger than what you need and any changes can be planed out. For larger slabs I would certainly use a mill that has 2 points of contact.
How blunt is ya chain
Great video!
Of polen 👍👍👍👍.
The saw is a 028. It could be bigger but it was given to me so the price was right.
why did you not wedge the end to keep the wood from pinching down on the blade?
At 7:11 you will see I have wedged the end with my axe. A few more in the mid point would be good. Great tip.
The mill is an Alaskan Small Log by Granberg - Works with up to a 20" bar
Big Woodsman what's max log
so does the log itself need to be level when on the ground before u start milling?
The more you can level everything the better off you are however as long as the ladder gets attached flat and level to the log then the mill will track from point on.
@@BigWoodsman ok thanks
Just made a chainsaw mill out of scrap . A guild that follows a 2x4 , I think one like yours would be more accurate . Or instead of using a wooded beam use steel . Along wooden 2x4 bends to easy and skews the cut on long logs .
use 4" or 6" red iron c purlin open side up for guide, cheap, wom't bend, and last long time, just drill holes to screw down to log and saw
What is the model called n how wide can ya cut with that one
Sangat senang melihatnya
Attach some type of shim total width of log right behind bar to keep lift of plank
actually thats quite clever to use a ladder as a rail. that would be for a couple of other projects using a ladder as aguide rail.
You do have to make sure your ladder is on the same plain as being level so your boards don’t come out twisted, happen to me
That makes sense. I have never really had to worry about it as the ladder is dead straight. When I mentioned it in the video I should have said not level end to end.
Must be level Thanks
I have never seen anyone go beyond the live edge portion with a chainsaw mill. How do you get this to dimensional lumber? Thanks again.
It's pretty easy to go beyond live edge if you have access to a planer. Watch my other video on sawing logs into beams for how to reference a log to start making straight edge planks whatever width you want. From there cut them 4/4 which is 1" thick then you can plane down to a 3/4" finished product. Good luck.
the tool was not designed for this and it is very clear
Nice. Planning on buying one. Does the wood need to be kiln dried for tables?
I could see making some kind of trigger clamp being useful.
You said it. This will be the next modification before I start milling again.
Yeah and then two handel's - ergonomically designed
Holy dust cloud sharpen the chain perhaps?
Nice video.Tnx !
How long is the blade ?
It's a 20" bar. There's not much of need for anything bigger in my area. Most big timber has been logged out long ago.
Great vid!
Nice job! What kind of milling saw are you using, thank you in advance.
The saw I'm using is 028. It would be nice to have a bit bigger to speed things up but I got it for free so it seemed like the right choice.
You're getting too much sawdust and few if any wood chips. Obviously you don't have a good ripping chain...it may not have even been reground for ripping. Ripping saw chains should be ground straight across, NOT at the 30 or 35 degree angle that crosscut chains come from the factory with. Find a regular sawmill saw and look at the teeth. They are sharpened straight across. I was a Boeing Company Tool Grinder for 30 years, so when it comes to angles, I know very well what I'm telling you about.
Kaye Bryan you will not get chips when milling with a chainsaw buddy, you will get saw dust. Your going with the grain of the wood, cross cutting produces chips. Ripping chain is ground 5-10 degrees.
Is 5-10 degrees the rake angle beneath/for the cutting edge? The ripping chain I resharpened, starting with a new chain, was straight across...zero degrees...which is exactly what you will see if you take the time to find and examine a large circular saw at a sawmill. You must be one of those hammer-headed evangelical/Deplorables who voted for Fuhrer Trump, America's first Fascist wannabe dictator.
Kaye Bryan You've obviously been milling your wood wrong if your getting chips opposed to dust. Oregon's ripping chain comes ground at 10°, not 0°. Fresh out of the box it produces fine sawdust on all species I've touched with it: Red/yellow cedar, Arbutus, Doug fir, Spruce, Pine..... Being a Boeing grinder for 30 yrs I'm sure you'd understand the basics of a cutter tooth cutting across the end of the grain and see why it would be impossible to produce a chip. Also aircraft materials act completely different than wood while being machined so I don't think your "expertise" necessarily transfers over here bud
Hi,
I get mostly chips instead of mostly sawdust because I regrind a new chain to the same angles as a large diameter sawmill saw. The cutting edge is ground straight across (parallel to the center line of the shaft the saw blade is mounted on), and with a rake angle being measured in degrees from a line drawn across the diameter of the saw blade. It's been awhile since I cut any lumber with a chain saw lumber mill so I don't remember the number of degrees, other than the angle is at least 10 degrees positive. If you have access to a regular saw mill blade, take a protractor and measure that angle. Make sure the part of your protractor that you place on the periphery of the saw blade is TANGENT to the line across the diameter of the blade. Otherwise, your reading in degrees won't be accurate. While you're measuring, check the angle of the surface behind the cutting edge. In tool grinding parlance, that surface is the primary land. On a metal-cutting end mill, that clearance angle depends upon the material being machined: Cast iron, 4 or 5 degrees. Steel, 6 to 10 degrees depending upon the alloy. Aluminum and titanium, 10 to 12 degrees. Behind the primary land is a secondary land. The width of the primary land is usually no more than 1/32 of an inch (.032"). However, because the primary land is also a 'heat-sink', some materials require a wider width. In Great Britain, reel lawnmowers have the reels spun or 'circle-ground' leaving the individual reel blades the same diameter front-to-back and with no 'run-out' around the circumference of the reel. Then, that portion of the blade behind the leading edge is 'backed off', leaving a primary land that is no more than .010" wide or one-fourth of a millimeter. The following is from my Oregon chainsaw maintenance manual (published in 1981) and pertains to the shape of the saw chain teeth. All are front view. Super Chisel: square-shaped. Super 70: square-shaped. Super Guard: square-shaped. The new chain you bought with the 10 degree angle. My guess is that the manufacturer didn't include an extra step that would involve sharpening the sides of the individual teeth, so used the 10 degree angle instead...saving money. You really should find a large diameter traditional saw mill saw blade and closely inspect, and measure, every aspect of the teeth. Kaye Bryan
Kaye Bryan you tried to offer advice that pertains strictly to circular saw mills.... This guy is milling with a chainsaw mill, I'm talking about chainsaw mills, the other guy above is talking about chainsaw mills. Oregon is a reputable manufacturer that produces a myriad of chains specific to various applications, I think they've got their engineering figured out. And yes the sides of my milling chains cutters are sharpened. While the information you posted about circular mills is probably correct, you're dead wrong about buddies sawdust and his chainsaw mill. Just leave it.... Apples to Oranges bud, you can't compare.
You can tell by the small sawdust your chain is very dull. Good video just need a sharpening job. When the sawdust is so small it shows a dull chain. If it was sharp it would come out as more chip than dust.
Hey Loooseunit
I have upgraded my powerplant. Check out my other videos and you can see it in action. Works much better but I couldn't argue with that saw at the time.
Are ripping chains worth it??
Every cent! You cant make your own but definitely a necessity.
@@BigWoodsman thank you man, what size bar can u run with like 8 lb ft of tq
@@joshsoorlin579 The bar length is more or less governed by the type and size of mill you have. With that said it is always helpful to have more power at your disposal. It makes for an easier cut.
Where did you get the platform for the chainsaw
Hey Anthony. Check out my other milling videos for info also. I use an old aluminum ladder and it works great with some simple upgrades.
What comes to my mind is the accumulation of wood lost to chainsaw width times X.
Seems quite slow - is that a ripping chain?
What size saw is that
When my saw is set up right my chips look like long golden curls.
That saw was struggling man. Looks so painful.
I watched the video with no sound all the ways. still formative.
How many tanks of gas was that cut?
It all depends on hardness of the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your chain. You should get at least 1 to 2 boards per tank.
Are your rails from an old ladder?
Muito bão mêss criaturo um abraço pra vc e Naf naf neném
hello nice this one please let me know all details can we buy this in pakistan
Might need a bigger saw or a tune up.
Oh wow. 028? Gotcha
Not ever having experienced use of one,,,, MAN that looks like you used more fuel and time getting through that first pass then you'd have spent going and just buying a board. Your bar may need leveling,, looked like it may have been cutting down away from your rails, would put it in possible bind. And your chain may need sharpening or replaced for a rip cut version. Either way, if you only need one board great work, but if you need more,, ya got more work than I believe you have time on the planet to live.
I guess the big thing to remember here is that they are a portable sawmill. Emphasis on "portable". I needed planks and had no way to get the logs out of the bush to the sawmill so we take the sawmill to the logs. I use it quite alot and it has paid for itself numerous times over. Everyone should have one.
I'm getting one of these. But wait I live in an apartment!
I don't see the problem.
Great Music !!!!
What kind of mill is it
Now I see why it takes so long to build
I want this machine .
How much its price is
the saw is making dust not cuts.
Chain hit the steel angle upon finishing, some slats might have prevented that
It comes very close but doesn't actually hit. Check out my other video on adapting your ladder so you have extra overhang to prevent just that.
I thank you need a bigger saw
Dude, sharpen your chain! It is making fine saw dust which indicates your chain needs a good sharpening!
This was a new chain but a rather unique design. I use a different one now and things are much better.
What no wedges
At 7:10 you can see I use my axe as a wedge. Works just fine.
Has anyone ever used a "ripping" chain on one of these mills?
Using a ripping chain is the only way to use one of these mills. There are multiple types of ripping chains but it is necessary.
A little doll isn’t it maybe Sharp and it
Nice job thanks for the idea with the ladder 😉😊 I à few days I receive my mill to and I will test it to. I also subscribed you
У меня почти такая только пластина орг стекла с низу как направляющая.
Standing in a dangerous position, would do better to be standing beside and in front, pulling than behind. Having said that, I very much like the simplicity of it. This is the design I'm going to try myself.
Definitely give this is try. It may seem like a dangerous position but once you use it you will see the bar is mostly in the log virtually eliminating kickback and the device has a pretty substantial guard for safety. Having said that you should treat all chainsaws with respect as they can be a dangerous tool and take constant control.
100 years later....................
Yes it is a slow process but it's not meant to be the fastest system out there but it is ridiculously portable when you are working remotely. That's the key.
Jesus that’s so slow😱😱
The music lost me, sorry.
Cannot hear you learn volume.
Turn it up, i heard him fine.
Damn that's slow
Bro you need a bigger power plant!!!
An 044 or bigger .
Ripper chain
Get a bigger saw, at least 80cc with a rip chain.
Супер!
you must be using the wrong saw chain
6'10"