Tried this today and it worked great. After switching to pods, the bike bogged down at higher RPM’s. Decided to give it a shot and glad I did. Runs like new again.
Aug 2023 , did something similar on a 1985 Yamaha 750 Maxim XJ , previous owner destroyed air box only to it no run anymore, gave beautiful bike away, now my baby , It’s all about the air flow, siliconed the pod ribs progressively until she purrs great now, no jetting, turn back pilot screws 2 turns. It works🎉
I got here by looking for "dual flange air pods for motorcycles" and your video is the first result. It's all about limiting air flow so the carbs receive just enough volume of it. So this is excactly what came to my mind earlier today! (except that I was thinking on wrapping some thin rags around the pods). Thank you for sharing!
PRO TIP: With these cyclone style and uni foam filters make sure you cut out halfof the interior rim of the filter so you can rotate the filter giving clearance to any air-intake ports. (kidney shaped hole around the interior rim of the carb.) DO NOT USE WASHERS INSIDE THE FILTER. You will block the main air intake port causing surging while decelerating. DO: Simply drink a can of beer then cut the top and bottom off and cut it down the side. Trim it to fit around the filter all the way to the end and tape in place. If the engine boggs down when revving, trim the length of the beer can from the farthest end of the filter 1/2 inch at a time. This increases airflow. Once you find the sweet spot, trim the width of the can to fit snuggly inside the filter like this video illustrates. Go for a ride :) CREDENTIALS: jetted and pod'd my last 5 motorcycles using this method with excellent results!
This is brilliant, I'm looking into restricting the flow on my Kawasaki zl 600 and I've just read your method. It makes perfect sense. I'll be giving it a go. Thanks
@@motorcyclerescuer i've also had good results by using a food can like soup or something. Find one that slips snugly over your foam pods. Cut away about 2/3rds of the bottom of the can. This will smooth out the airflow and it also looks pretty cool with shiny cans linked up to your carbs. =) Or you can paint them if you wish. The important thing is to smooth out the airflow and reduce it to match your fuel flow. Good luck! =)
to put more clearly. carbs rely on negative intake pressure (suction) to suck fuel through the jet, and lift the slide. removing the airbox reduces that negative pressure thus making the bike run lean and require bigger jets.....its a balancing act.....hope this helps. their are washers availiable to do this abit more cleanly. good for someone who wants pods without the extra fuel consumption of jetting up and all round easier to set up. also be wary the flange in the pod doesn't cover any ports on the intake else the slide wont lift enough
These are amateur bandage tricks . Drill out the hole in the bottom of your slide a bit bigger then test run every time . It makes up for the loss of vacuum lift on your slide . Been tuning them this way for 30 years . Washer tricks Just choking your performance .
@@Ratridez Wouldn't drilling the hole bigger make it harder for the slide to raise? The bigger the hole the less pressure you get for the amount of air going through it.
Getting rid of the airbox is win for me. The tunnel effect is the most important on CVKs. The tunnel length can be guided by inlet rubber from the airbox. I had to cut some rubber pn the pods so they don't block the vacuum inlet. Thanks for the tip Ben.
it was the 550a model. It worked very well. kept an old bike on the road. was it ideal setup? maybe, maybe not ideal but ill take a 95% solution. when is a cheap unuversal fuel injection kit coming along for these old warriors
you can also put a large thick washer inside the pod filter opening.it reduces the airflow.i just bought a couple different hole sizes and see with one works best.
No it doesnt fix the problem it might disguise it a little but bottom line its not going to be the correct in rush air flow for the cv carb to mix correctly through out all rpm ranges .... tell me how does the gate circut function in a cv carb?? Go ahead. .... say Google help i need to know....
Randall Highsmith. air rushes past the bean-shaped hole in the carburetor forcing the diaphragm upward. I used to think it was based off of a vacuum. literally for years I thought that it was vacuum. but why dose it need restriction if its not based on vacuum? now thats what i wont to know
If you're trying to get performance out of your intake, increasing your airflow is a great way to do it, but more air means you need more fuel so if you dont re-jet, all you're really getting out of a pod filter is a cleaner look and worse filtering.
Also a lot less hassle removing and refitting your carbs. Also less chance of hidden air leaks from the airbox to carb rubbers that split and perish causing no end of grief and bad running and terrible fuel consumption and overheating and seizing of engines. So Im for the pods thanks.
@@jimme8499 That's a really long list of whataboutisms. Pods are pointless unless going all the way with tuning. You just sound like you hate maintaining anything.
the engineers did a excellent job making the stock intake for cv carbs i have a 1982 yamaha 750 maxim. it runs perfect, pod filters suck and let dirt and water in the intake. color tune is the greatest way to get the bike tuned. and the boots are tricky to install but not really that tough
@@jerryking1434 gunson color tune is a tuning kit. It had a clear window in the test spark plug that allows you to see the mixture color that’s why it’s called color tune when the color is a pretty blue it’s tuned. orange is too rich. It works on 2 and 4 strokes. I had never heard of it either but the forums praised color tune and I bought a kit and it worked perfectly
All you got to do is spray it with heavy duty silicon spray come in a can for 3dollars an you know the best part of it all you can spray it on any thing except plastic.it keeps it moist.
amazing trick!! i hate my pesky difficult to remove tight squeezed standard airbox on my bandit1200 makes me so afraid of removing the carbs because of those..
I’m glad I’m found someone that tried it because I figured there was a way to restrict those pods effectively. (EDIT) don’t do this. Save money. Buy stock airbox. Not worth the money wasted and potential damage to your engine. It’s better to do it right than have nothing at all.
@@mockingblue7788 Did you end up doing it? I'm going this route, but wondering how to hold up the carb. I feel like letting the weight rest on the rubber boots isn't going to be ideal?
@@yung.houdini FROM ME TO YOU! Please just put the stock airbox back on the bike it is absolutely not worth it. The bikes aren’t fast anyway and the amount of money, time and pain you will endure only to end up putting the stock airbox back on the damn thing. Absolutely not worth it at all
Furthermore. You can warp the valves/mess them up. It will need to be taken to a shop and have over 2000$ put into those carbs (good mechanics are absolutely not cheap) those carbs will have to be completely rejetted and set different. The bike is super picky and four carbs are a nightmare to sync at all even with the airbox on correctly. TRUST ME. BEEN THERE DONE THAT. I PUT THE STOCK AIRBOX ON BACK ON, PAYED MY 80$ for Vacuum gauges to sync the carbs and now I ride my bike all the time no issues. I can pretty much guarantee that the motorcycle in this video is sitting under a tarp rn in that barn not being rode. Revving up a bike and riding one under load are two different things. Mine sounded just like that but when I would go to ride it, took a big shit and died a mile away from home. Not worth it my dude.
@@mockingblue7788 did it not work out well when dealing the pod filters this way? The bike didn’t come with the stock air box. Or the stock mufflers which is also giving me another issue. So far it’s a lot more than what I bargained for, so looking for the cheapest way to at least get it going for now. Any advice on holding up the weight of the carb when using the pod filters? Cause I think I may even just go that route temporarily then eventually go the stock air box route. I won’t be riding it a ton so hopefully doesn’t provide much issue if I do the pod filters
I have a cb750 with pods. I cut a half inch out of the meeting rubber rim of pod and added the plastic tunnel with Pepsi bottle plastic. Absolutely F$$$$%! Fly's !! Ps Use crazy glue to keep them from collapsing (the plastic tunnels)
@@hurstshiftin9873wow great to know. One question though, how do you decide how much of the length to cover with this trick? I run a UNI foam filter which is probably 5 inch long but how do I decide how much to cover from inside?
@@gyanendrasingh4471 you want roughly a half inch left that's not covering the inside dia. That Should do you fine. Those filters you have are a bit different than mine but should yield the same results.
Suppose you just had no airbox because you just decided to part ways with your airbox the last time you had to put the dang bike back together again and haven't yet settled on a replacement method(pods, velocity stacks, coffee filters etc...) you think putting some electrical tape across the openings would serve the same purpose? Like leave a strip across the middle of the opening of each carb. Maybe since I'm using tape, put some filter material there against the inside of the tape
Putting restrictions in the filter to prevent having to re-jet defeats the entire point of a freer flowing filter. Carbs lean out when these filters are fitted as they don't give as much pressure drop, great for maximising airflow but the resulting higher pressure at the mouth of the carb means less fuel flows through the main jet.
So you buy a more flowing air filter and instead of increasing the fuel flow so that it increases the performance, you reduce the flow of your air filter to keep it as if it was stock...
I switched to a pod filter and did the same thing with the plastic and still can't get it tuned right. Idle seems fine but everything above that it's stutters.
make sure the inside rubber lip is NOT blocking the ports at the front of the carb since that's what operates the slides which controls the main needle, notch the rubber blocking the ports and try again.
And add W = for works great without too much trouble . And add D = for dont listen to the people who hate anything working that shouldn't. And add A = for assholes that sit down to work out that bees can't fly when we all know they can !
Back when these pod filters first came out ..guys were wrapping tube socks around the filters and rubber banding them on ... Pretty much the same idea as your ...restrict them up ...
ingrown toe nail hold on a cotton picking minute... surely it’s a 23 mm hole or the piston return spring may become dislodged and take someone’s eye out....
what side pods. I have a zr550 (same engine for the most part) and holly hell is the air box giving me some trouble trying to get back on after taking my carbs off to clean them.
Did this year's ago with insulating tape onna old GS trike running bandit carbs and crappy cheap pods,it ran pretty good but the tape looked crap..just doing a GSXR with bandit 12 motor and pods, fucking d a rejet and tuned but still not right...think standard jets and try this !
I know this is an old video but I can't help finding the humor how many people are interested in restricting airflow so they can run a performance oriented air filter on a lame ass cv carb. You can put a lighter spring in the cv piston for many applications. This reduces how much vacuum it takes to open the slide.
I used a old pair of stocking on a 100 cc scooter, the bastard sucked them in and fucked the engine plus my misses was not chuffed because they were her favourite ones lol
its got F all to do with air flow. it's air pressure and it only affects multi cylinder carb engines, A CV Carb uses air pressure or vacuum to operate the main jet if the air pressure across the carbs intakes is different, which can happens when you don't have an box to keep the pressure even, the fuel mix in the cylinders can be different so the power output between cylinders will be different which means the bike will be losing power. That is why all multi cylinder bikes with CV carbs have air boxes its science its engineering. Put on POD F%$K around all you like with jetting etc. you might get the bike to run OK some of the time bit it will never run well all of the time.
exactly, the only time it's even worth f'ing around is if you got a bike missing the box and it's impossible to find one. I was in the same boat with my KZ1000P cafe project and finally found a stock airbox on ebay and changed my design to incorporate it. Doesn't look "COOL", but it fires right up and doesn't bog or stutter when I nail the throttle.
hey i just picked up a 98 KZ 1000P like you mentioned with pods. I will try restricting some of the air flow to see if it performs better. it does bog down when i crack the throttle. was told that its because of a faulty petcock which i have ordered. The crabs are not refilling fast enough so every mile or so it dies and i have to wait for the bowls to refill again. I will install new petcock and take it from there. I will try sourcing the air box, sounds like pods are problems, like dating a stripper, looks like fun, but only head ache down the road lol lol.
How come this guy doesn't answer any comments? Has anyone tried this? I've been told most likely this doesn't work at high rpm, the engine gets too little air since the filter is all covered up.
I thought is was a joke at first too, but figured what the heck I'll try a few quick fixes before re-doing the carbs. It worked like a charm. Runs smooth and doesn't bog down during quick acceleration anymore.
why would it be a joke if hes spent time silicone glueing the pods and designing and making and fitting the tunnels in the pods ,i mean would you even be arsed taking all that time fucking about with all that shit just for a joke ,you fucking idiot.
@@bleedulus It's not that easy. You need to try different main and primary jets and maybe shim the needle. Make the springs in the carbs weaker or create more velocity with stacks and also reduce the air intake like he does in the video.
No this does not work ... it might help from low to mid range but high range naw it wont flow and mix correctly.. cv design is very finicky bout incomming in rush air flow
then why are some peoples suzuki bandits 600 and 1200s running pods and working perfect ,revving cleanly throughout the range without any problems , i think you are just full of shit and have no idea what you are talking about.
@@lottierose8668 for the same reason my cammed oil cooled Suzuki runs perfect with only velocity stacks. You re- jet and your cv carbs work just as good as they did with the air box
Tried this today and it worked great. After switching to pods, the bike bogged down at higher RPM’s. Decided to give it a shot and glad I did. Runs like new again.
what bike do you have ?
94 Honda Nighthawk 250 converted to a scrambler. Single carb. Still running great.
great , did you use the washers in the pods or make the plastic tunnel thingy like in the video
made the tunnel out of a plastic bottle. Tried the washer idea first and it made no difference.
good stuff ,im gonna try this on my 600 bandit chop
Aug 2023 , did something similar on a 1985 Yamaha 750 Maxim XJ , previous owner destroyed air box only to it no run anymore, gave beautiful bike away, now my baby , It’s all about the air flow, siliconed the pod ribs progressively until she purrs great now, no jetting, turn back pilot screws 2 turns. It works🎉
I got here by looking for "dual flange air pods for motorcycles" and your video is the first result.
It's all about limiting air flow so the carbs receive just enough volume of it.
So this is excactly what came to my mind earlier today!
(except that I was thinking on wrapping some thin rags around the pods).
Thank you for sharing!
Worked GREAT for me. Went from bogging at higher rpms and load to wide open free rev limiter thank you
PRO TIP: With these cyclone style and uni foam filters make sure you cut out halfof the interior rim of the filter so you can rotate the filter giving clearance to any air-intake ports. (kidney shaped hole around the interior rim of the carb.) DO NOT USE WASHERS INSIDE THE FILTER. You will block the main air intake port causing surging while decelerating.
DO: Simply drink a can of beer then cut the top and bottom off and cut it down the side. Trim it to fit around the filter all the way to the end and tape in place. If the engine boggs down when revving, trim the length of the beer can from the farthest end of the filter 1/2 inch at a time. This increases airflow. Once you find the sweet spot, trim the width of the can to fit snuggly inside the filter like this video illustrates. Go for a ride :)
CREDENTIALS: jetted and pod'd my last 5 motorcycles using this method with excellent results!
This is brilliant, I'm looking into restricting the flow on my Kawasaki zl 600 and I've just read your method. It makes perfect sense. I'll be giving it a go.
Thanks
@@motorcyclerescuer i've also had good results by using a food can like soup or something. Find one that slips snugly over your foam pods. Cut away about 2/3rds of the bottom of the can. This will smooth out the airflow and it also looks pretty cool with shiny cans linked up to your carbs. =) Or you can paint them if you wish. The important thing is to smooth out the airflow and reduce it to match your fuel flow. Good luck! =)
Perfect, i will let you know how it goes, should be doing it tomorrow.
Thanks
Drank the beer. Forgot why. Came back and read the tip again 😁 thank you.
@@motorcyclerescuer fix my bike by drinking a beer! You're a genius brother.
My intruder has 2 intakes so I guess I'll have to drink 2 beers 🍻
to put more clearly.
carbs rely on negative intake pressure (suction) to suck fuel through the jet, and lift the slide. removing the airbox reduces that negative pressure thus making the bike run lean and require bigger jets.....its a balancing act.....hope this helps.
their are washers availiable to do this abit more cleanly. good for someone who wants pods without the extra fuel consumption of jetting up and all round easier to set up.
also be wary the flange in the pod doesn't cover any ports on the intake else the slide wont lift enough
Petrov Gigel cool story....update your blog about it
LOL. You have no clue what it takes to get CV's to work with boost. LOL.
These are amateur bandage tricks .
Drill out the hole in the bottom of your slide a bit bigger then test run every time .
It makes up for the loss of vacuum lift on your slide .
Been tuning them this way for 30 years .
Washer tricks Just choking your performance .
@@Ratridez Wouldn't drilling the hole bigger make it harder for the slide to raise? The bigger the hole the less pressure you get for the amount of air going through it.
@@JohnDoe-ld7qf No , makes the diaphragm quicker to respond
Getting rid of the airbox is win for me. The tunnel effect is the most important on CVKs. The tunnel length can be guided by inlet rubber from the airbox. I had to cut some rubber pn the pods so they don't block the vacuum inlet. Thanks for the tip Ben.
Love the bike! I'm doing a restore on one. Great tip to eliminate the air box. Thank you!
it was the 550a model. It worked very well. kept an old bike on the road. was it ideal setup? maybe, maybe not ideal but ill take a 95% solution. when is a cheap unuversal fuel injection kit coming along for these old warriors
Excellent ,for same performance with more space.
Congratulations: you invented the tunnel ram.
thanks, I luv Honda, but this 1982 honda night hawk 650 stock air box design came straight from the depths of hell 🔥
you can also put a large thick washer inside the pod filter opening.it reduces the airflow.i just bought a couple different hole sizes and see with one works best.
Hopefully you're around still. What bike did you run this mod on?
it works on any bike, you just have to find the right size washer. the washer goes in the pod.
No it doesnt fix the problem it might disguise it a little but bottom line its not going to be the correct in rush air flow for the cv carb to mix correctly through out all rpm ranges .... tell me how does the gate circut function in a cv carb?? Go ahead. .... say Google help i need to know....
Randall Highsmith. air rushes past the bean-shaped hole in the carburetor forcing the diaphragm upward. I used to think it was based off of a vacuum. literally for years I thought that it was vacuum. but why dose it need restriction if its not based on vacuum? now thats what i wont to know
Randall Highsmith negative Nancy's like you need to know change is sometimes good. An airbox is trash.
If you're trying to get performance out of your intake, increasing your airflow is a great way to do it, but more air means you need more fuel so if you dont re-jet, all you're really getting out of a pod filter is a cleaner look and worse filtering.
Also a lot less hassle removing and refitting your carbs.
Also less chance of hidden air leaks from the airbox to carb rubbers that split and perish causing no end of grief and bad running and terrible fuel consumption and overheating and seizing of engines.
So Im for the pods thanks.
@@jimme8499 That's a really long list of whataboutisms.
Pods are pointless unless going all the way with tuning.
You just sound like you hate maintaining anything.
the engineers did a excellent job making the stock intake for cv carbs i have a 1982 yamaha 750 maxim. it runs perfect, pod filters suck and let dirt and water in the intake. color tune is the greatest way to get the bike tuned. and the boots are tricky to install but not really that tough
Ok..I'll bite ..What does color tune mean...
@@jerryking1434 gunson color tune is a tuning kit. It had a clear window in the test spark plug that allows you to see the mixture color that’s why it’s called color tune when the color is a pretty blue it’s tuned. orange is too rich. It works on 2 and 4 strokes. I had never heard of it either but the forums praised color tune and I bought a kit and it worked perfectly
All you got to do is spray it with heavy duty silicon spray come in a can for 3dollars an you know the best part of it all you can spray it on any thing except plastic.it keeps it moist.
amazing trick!! i hate my pesky difficult to remove tight squeezed standard airbox on my bandit1200 makes me so afraid of removing the carbs because of those..
just warm them up with an hot gun
I’m glad I’m found someone that tried it because I figured there was a way to restrict those pods effectively. (EDIT) don’t do this. Save money. Buy stock airbox. Not worth the money wasted and potential damage to your engine. It’s better to do it right than have nothing at all.
@@mockingblue7788 Did you end up doing it? I'm going this route, but wondering how to hold up the carb. I feel like letting the weight rest on the rubber boots isn't going to be ideal?
@@yung.houdini PUT THE STOCK AIRBOX BACK ON THE BIKE PLEASE GOD DO NOT BE LIKE HIM OR ME.
@@yung.houdini FROM ME TO YOU! Please just put the stock airbox back on the bike it is absolutely not worth it. The bikes aren’t fast anyway and the amount of money, time and pain you will endure only to end up putting the stock airbox back on the damn thing. Absolutely not worth it at all
Furthermore. You can warp the valves/mess them up. It will need to be taken to a shop and have over 2000$ put into those carbs (good mechanics are absolutely not cheap) those carbs will have to be completely rejetted and set different. The bike is super picky and four carbs are a nightmare to sync at all even with the airbox on correctly. TRUST ME. BEEN THERE DONE THAT. I PUT THE STOCK AIRBOX ON BACK ON, PAYED MY 80$ for Vacuum gauges to sync the carbs and now I ride my bike all the time no issues. I can pretty much guarantee that the motorcycle in this video is sitting under a tarp rn in that barn not being rode. Revving up a bike and riding one under load are two different things. Mine sounded just like that but when I would go to ride it, took a big shit and died a mile away from home. Not worth it my dude.
@@mockingblue7788 did it not work out well when dealing the pod filters this way? The bike didn’t come with the stock air box. Or the stock mufflers which is also giving me another issue. So far it’s a lot more than what I bargained for, so looking for the cheapest way to at least get it going for now. Any advice on holding up the weight of the carb when using the pod filters? Cause I think I may even just go that route temporarily then eventually go the stock air box route. I won’t be riding it a ton so hopefully doesn’t provide much issue if I do the pod filters
Great video, very helpful, how did you determine the depth of the plastic sleeve and how much air to restrict? Your a smart man, thanks.
CV carbs miss the stock airbox Velocity stacks that help cv carbs operate right. So basically you put Velocity stacks inside your filters.
You nailed it ,a filtered velocity stak funnel ,
I have a cb750 with pods. I cut a half inch out of the meeting rubber rim of pod and added the plastic tunnel with Pepsi bottle plastic. Absolutely F$$$$%! Fly's !! Ps Use crazy glue to keep them from collapsing (the plastic tunnels)
You ran stock jets or rejetted? Did this trick work across the rpm band?
@@gyanendrasingh4471 stock jets mine ran great good throttle bottom to top.
@@hurstshiftin9873wow great to know. One question though, how do you decide how much of the length to cover with this trick? I run a UNI foam filter which is probably 5 inch long but how do I decide how much to cover from inside?
@@gyanendrasingh4471 you want roughly a half inch left that's not covering the inside dia. That Should do you fine. Those filters you have are a bit different than mine but should yield the same results.
@@hurstshiftin9873Thanks so much for your quick responses. Really really appreciate
Suppose you just had no airbox because you just decided to part ways with your airbox the last time you had to put the dang bike back together again and haven't yet settled on a replacement method(pods, velocity stacks, coffee filters etc...) you think putting some electrical tape across the openings would serve the same purpose? Like leave a strip across the middle of the opening of each carb. Maybe since I'm using tape, put some filter material there against the inside of the tape
Tape a paint stir stick across the bottom 3/4 of the carbs.
Do you still have your airbox I have the same year kz550 it's impossible to find
This is like strangling a man trying to run a mile.
It would be the same as running a mile with a stock airbox.
Putting restrictions in the filter to prevent having to re-jet defeats the entire point of a freer flowing filter. Carbs lean out when these filters are fitted as they don't give as much pressure drop, great for maximising airflow but the resulting higher pressure at the mouth of the carb means less fuel flows through the main jet.
Point is to get rid of airbox
Dude that's cool and all but visualization is better. Can you make a video on actually modifying one instead of a after is done ? Thanks
Silicon Carne! Good job!!! Make sure you oil them!
Great idea thanks AI have a kz750 that needs more air restriction.
Not bad at all, helped me out 8 years later
I think you just saved my Vulcan 500
What can I use exactly for the inside to create tunnel?
Ichiban?
So you buy a more flowing air filter and instead of increasing the fuel flow so that it increases the performance, you reduce the flow of your air filter to keep it as if it was stock...
With cv carbs just blasting them with more air doesnt mean "more power" their is a science behind it.
False. Get with the program
great tip man. ☺ 👍 👍
Would this work the same on a single carb intake or is that more risk
What size of pods did you use for your twin carburetor???
I switched to a pod filter and did the same thing with the plastic and still can't get it tuned right. Idle seems fine but everything above that it's stutters.
Move needle up a notch for more fuel at higher rev/speed
make sure the inside rubber lip is NOT blocking the ports at the front of the carb since that's what operates the slides which controls the main needle, notch the rubber blocking the ports and try again.
CV Carbs.
C = Constant
V = Velocity
Pods replace ( C ) with Turbulence.
Pods replace ( V ) with removing Velocity and substituting Volume.
And add W = for works great without too much trouble .
And add D = for dont listen to the people who hate anything working that shouldn't.
And add A = for assholes that sit down to work out that bees can't fly when we all know they can !
S standing for stacks between the carb and the filter to maintain constant velocity and mass air. Fat jets and needle shims and it will scream
So you kinda defeat the object of high flow air filters by blocking their intake.
He said the air box was ugly, not under performing…looks not performance.
Its blocking the slide vent you need to shave the rubber from the inside
life saver man
Back when these pod filters first came out ..guys were wrapping tube socks around the filters and rubber banding them on ...
Pretty much the same idea as your ...restrict them up ...
I like the tube sock idea as well. Lmao
Great trick thanks for posting
I bought A Free Flow Air Intake Bt Got Acknowledged That I Have To Rejett The Carburetor Any Hack For That Without Rejetting It???
Gurpreet Singh he just showed you on the video
drill your jets with tiny drill
drill a 30mm hole straight through the cylinder block and into the side of of 1 piston ,works great on my vincent black shadow.
ingrown toe nail hold on a cotton picking minute... surely it’s a 23 mm hole or the piston return spring may become dislodged and take someone’s eye out....
I used tennis balls, thanks'🤣
what side pods. I have a zr550 (same engine for the most part) and holly hell is the air box giving me some trouble trying to get back on after taking my carbs off to clean them.
hot air gun the rubbers easy
Did this year's ago with insulating tape onna old GS trike running bandit carbs and crappy cheap pods,it ran pretty good but the tape looked crap..just doing a GSXR with bandit 12 motor and pods, fucking d a rejet and tuned but still not right...think standard jets and try this !
What size are the pods?
Really cool mod.
I know this is an old video but I can't help finding the humor how many people are interested in restricting airflow so they can run a performance oriented air filter on a lame ass cv carb. You can put a lighter spring in the cv piston for many applications. This reduces how much vacuum it takes to open the slide.
Could you elaborate what you mean with the lighter spring thing? I'm building a cafe racer and I wanna use pods. Suzuki gs650g 1981 model..
what model is it?
cover it all up with a pair of folded old socks and some ties; don't wash them,it won't run ; ():lean
I used a old pair of stocking on a 100 cc scooter, the bastard sucked them in and fucked the engine plus my misses was not chuffed because they were her favourite ones lol
@@RJR1007 sorry bout your engine, but that story is freakin hilarious!
its got F all to do with air flow. it's air pressure and it only affects multi cylinder carb engines, A CV Carb uses air pressure or vacuum to operate the main jet if the air pressure across the carbs intakes is different, which can happens when you don't have an box to keep the pressure even, the fuel mix in the cylinders can be different so the power output between cylinders will be different which means the bike will be losing power. That is why all multi cylinder bikes with CV carbs have air boxes its science its engineering.
Put on POD F%$K around all you like with jetting etc. you might get the bike to run OK some of the time bit it will never run well all of the time.
exactly, the only time it's even worth f'ing around is if you got a bike missing the box and it's impossible to find one. I was in the same boat with my KZ1000P cafe project and finally found a stock airbox on ebay and changed my design to incorporate it. Doesn't look "COOL", but it fires right up and doesn't bog or stutter when I nail the throttle.
hey i just picked up a 98 KZ 1000P like you mentioned with pods. I will try restricting some of the air flow to see if it performs better. it does bog down when i crack the throttle. was told that its because of a faulty petcock which i have ordered. The crabs are not refilling fast enough so every mile or so it dies and i have to wait for the bowls to refill again. I will install new petcock and take it from there. I will try sourcing the air box, sounds like pods are problems, like dating a stripper, looks like fun, but only head ache down the road lol lol.
well my bandit 600 runs well all of the time ,so what the fuck are you talkin about ???
Stupid. No science involved in any of your comment. Any motor can run just fine with (pods) or any air filter for that matter.
@@mike141109221 motor ca. run fine with any filter, though the type of carbs in front of that motor will determine how efficiently that motor runs
How come this guy doesn't answer any comments? Has anyone tried this? I've been told most likely this doesn't work at high rpm, the engine gets too little air since the filter is all covered up.
of course! this is a joke!!!!!!!!
I thought is was a joke at first too, but figured what the heck I'll try a few quick fixes before re-doing the carbs. It worked like a charm. Runs smooth and doesn't bog down during quick acceleration anymore.
why would it be a joke if hes spent time silicone glueing the pods and designing and making and fitting the tunnels in the pods ,i mean would you even be arsed taking all that time fucking about with all that shit just for a joke ,you fucking idiot.
Hey man, that's another person. Be nicer on the internet.
@@michaeltedham u got to try anything to make it work.air box suck .everthing you do to a bike the dam airbox is always in the dam way....
Just buy jets, they are cheap and it's easy to jet CV carbs.
just the main jets?
@@bleedulus It's not that easy. You need to try different main and primary jets and maybe shim the needle. Make the springs in the carbs weaker or create more velocity with stacks and also reduce the air intake like he does in the video.
Now did those pods work before you modified them?
Probably did, it just run too lean, kept stalling or not starting at all.
Yes i know im a necromancer.
You know reason why boots get dry.......haha cause they get dry duh.
I tried this and it didnt work, I did exact same thing you did to your pods
ah ah oh a I just fell asleep
No this does not work ... it might help from low to mid range but high range naw it wont flow and mix correctly.. cv design is very finicky bout incomming in rush air flow
then why are some peoples suzuki bandits 600 and 1200s running pods and working perfect ,revving cleanly throughout the range without any problems , i think you are just full of shit and have no idea what you are talking about.
@@lottierose8668 for the same reason my cammed oil cooled Suzuki runs perfect with only velocity stacks. You re- jet and your cv carbs work just as good as they did with the air box
That was a waste of time and money since you didn't achievhe any horsepower yeah some trick
don't think he was planning to get the bike faster.was to get it running as clos as before removing the stock filter