✅ NEW EBOOK - mrleica.com/ebook-model-photography-handbook/ ✅ PRESETS - mrleica.com/presets/ 📷 LIGHT LENS LAB discount code - bit.ly/3Xieazn 📷 CAMERA BAG: bit.ly/3Uiva6w 📷 SEE MY GEAR: mrleica.com/kitlist/ 7 ways I can help you with your photography: ------- 1. Free Newsletter (Leica, Film & Reviews) - bit.ly/3OLE37t 2. eBooks - bit.ly/3ziRkQ9 3. Presets - bit.ly/4erCB4t 4. Free Welcome Pack for Leica owners - bit.ly/3MTuPUY 5. Join my Patreon community - bit.ly/4ewAhcd 6. Jump on a Call - bit.ly/3lBkdgq 7. Request a Workshop - bit.ly/47ISKjG ------- ✅ CHECK EBAY - (US) ebay.to/2F0HoxY (UK) ebay.to/3ijzle2 ✅ SUBSCRIBED?: Don't miss another video! bit.ly/3qET0ZO ✅ NEED FILM?: mrleica.com/do-you-need-film/ ✅ COFFEE: Thank Matt with a coffee - www.paypal.com/paypalme/MrLeica Tobi IG @tobias.spranger More Photos: Hasselblad mrleica.com/hasselblad-h3d-39-review/ ✅ ZOOM: Not sure what camera/ lens to buy? Arrange a call - bit.ly/3lBkdgq ✅ SUBSCRIBED?: Don't miss another video! bit.ly/3qET0ZO ✅ NEED FILM?: mrleica.com/do-you-need-film/ ✅ COFFEE: Thank Matt with a coffee - www.paypal.com/paypalme/MrLeica
super cool interview, finally two guys how adore ccd like me have a conversation which feels like i want to join, totally agree with your facts between ccd and cmos. i owned the m9 and the h3d 39 prob the best cams i ever owned, sold my 1dx m II and sony a7IV... they were super practical but the sensors had no soul or smth like that dont know how to describe it but you guys prob know what i mean :) good job guys ! :)
Very interesting Video, thank you! I wonder which of the Hassy‘s was the latest with a CCD sensor. I have searched a bit and found the H4D with a 40MP sensor. Has there been any CCD sensor with more resolution? And what is interesting for me, as the H4D is more expensive than the H3D: Are the upgrades worth it? I have read something about better autofocus, but as I would use this camera for „slow photography“ anyway, that’s not so much of an argument for me. Are there other features that would make that camera worth the higher price? And if I may ask one more question: Are the Phase One CCD Digibacks so much better? Or does one pay the brand name only? Lots of questions - I do hope you find the time to answer them. Thanks again 😊
I only can answer to the Phase One related question. No the backs from Phase One are not better than the Hasselblad ones. Often they even share the same sensor. The price difference here is just because the 39mp back from Matt is arround 5 years older then my Phase One back, which came out in 2012. The older P45+ back is approximately the same price as the 39mp back from Hasselblad.
Wow! What a wonderful overview of "how to" and CCD vs CMOS and with Toby who is knowledgeable, confident and not pushy. A great video. That HB is doing great things in your hands. It is always a pleasure to see your videos as you keep getting better and I am wondering just how much better will it get. Will we see you walking on water? With your new HB I see better the charm of CCD in that it may not be more accurate bit it is more flattering, especially on skin tones and what do you shoot but skin tones? I have gone back and checked some of my old M9 pics and see it better now so thanks for that. Just great work with that HB.
Great to see you and Tobi had a blast on this trip, wish I can join you this time around in NYC, but October is one of my two craziest month of the year for productions. I have been trying to figure out how to power a H4D-40 back without its body, but the manual, even in the shooting with view camera section, did not mention any external power solution for the back/DCU. Not sure if the H3D is the same? I am hoping that they can be power with the same setup as the H5D and H6D via a Sony NPF power adapter. Do you have any insight on your H3D-39 regarding to that?
Say, left field question: I’d go for a type 240 for a particular look and even a 262; but I am finding a challenge to find batteries for either of these models. That’s for me a deal breaker. Do you guys have a solution?
You probably see I use a 262 abd have used a 240 for years. Great colours for a CMOS and for batteries try to buy camera with 2 batteries included. They last all day anyway especially with M262.
It all depends - we use all three and the Fuji GFX and others. They are all used for different things - Phase One never leaves the studio Schneider Kreuznach for fashion - very neutral - big files can do a lot with them. H6D100c is the daddy for T+S . Leica M ( SL2 with M lenses) for our editorial team, Fuji GFX for outdoors when its wet and in the UK it's rarely dry. Best for colour - well you may not know but when Hass bought Imacaon Imaging, what they really bought and then renamed was HNCS. We also have Hass 907xCFV100c and 2 X2D's and a bunch of Fuji GX680II's but the best for colour is the Hass H6D100c - far better than X series - bigger sensor etc - but its close - I personally hate the Fuji system because it is far too complicated and stuggle with some of their lenses - the 110mm has strange artefacts when heavily processed - and we did have our hands on the 30mm T+S and the 110mm T+S but they are a bit hopeless in comparison to the Hass system. We are though turning our attention more to the HAss X series and will be transitioning away from large medium format!!!!.
One of the best things I love about film is that I have maybe more than 100 different sensors from which to choose.LOL! When I grow up, Matt, I want to be you!
Just to be clear, if I want to get a CMOS M9 which sensor should it have other than the original one? I also heard that some other (not Kodak) manufacturer made replacement sensors. Is that true?Thanks and great video.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom If you come to Pilsen again, let me know ;) I'm really good friend with guys from Godox CZ. You could test some news or maybe use their studio ;)
I haven't tried any of the cameras listed in the title, lol, but I feel very confident that the M10 24mp sensor is the best color sensor out there. It seems like sensors that strive for ultimate dynamic range sacrifice color and contrast to get that. When I shoot the A7iv next to the M10, the m10 consistently has more color depth.
Yes, we did a comparison in March this year with the M9, M10 (from Matt) and an EOS R, all the same lens on. The M10 holds up quite well in terms of color. Definitely a great camera.
Where can we see pictures taken with the M9 and the old Sonnar lens? I agree, that it is not easy to match the look of even further edited M9 photos when modern CMOS cameras are the raw source. I don't think it's a special property of CCD sensors, but rather of the subsequent signal processing, which in the M9 is still tuned to a look that should be close to Kodachrome.
Hello about Canon colour rendering. Lightroom is clearly not suitable. I use phaseone for Canon Raw. It’s better. I've also found that files from the leica m262 monochrome render better using phaseone software. Thanks for the video
Hi Tobias! Thanks for the insights! Depending on the lighting, apparently the Leica M9 can make the skin tones too brown, so one has the reduce the saturation. Do you experience this with the CCD sensor on the Phase One too?
The RAWs from the M9 and the IQ180 are quite the same color and contrast. But when they are to brown it's mostly the exposure or/and the white balance. Always go manual for both. The auto metering of both cameras isn't the best.
ohh please 😂Colors are not CCD vs CMOS. A color science is a color science. Every camera has its own algorithm to interpret values from the pixels. This is old argument from the non-tech savvy people when CMOS was a new tech. Basically CMOS was little bit more noisy but was offering faster readout and was less expensive. New BSI sensors are beating everything that was before including advanced CCD sensors. PhaseOne is just a great company who cares about the color from the beginning to the end. I am using Capture one with Sony a7IV and Fuji X100V and colors are great. Even when I dig out my old RAWs from Canon 5Dmk3 the pictures have nicer starting look. But yeah, don't fall for that CCD vs CMOS argument. It is all about RAW engine (which is also editable).
It's all about high quality bayer color filter array. A low cost muddy red channel filtering will never output rich red, sorry raw engines ai and other software cheats
Thanks, yes as long as the images look great I don’t care ..but it just so happens the M9, H3D of those I’ve owned both have amazing colours. I can edit Hassy CCD files easier/ better for skin I’m now finding making colour work much more fun.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom yes I also noticed this ease of color processing with my H3D and to a lesser extent the M10. I am convinced that part of the explanation for the high price of these devices is in the cost of this high quality filtering. low-cost CMOS with poor bayer filtering must be heavily pre-processed by on-board RAW engine, leaving little room for adjustment in image post processing
I am sure the 110 F2 was designed for the Hasselblad 2000CF series cameras. The F lenses do not have a leaf shutter, as I remember and rely on the focal plane shutter of the camera. I think you can use the CF lenses of an F body, but not an F lens on a C/CF body. The F series cameras were mostly used outdoors with natural light where the 1/500 sync speed of the C/CF lenses was not required. The lack of the leaf shutter also made the lenses a bit more affordable in Hasselblad terms. As far as I remember the F lenses wee very high performance lenses and if they don't perform on digital it is perhaps a conflict with the way the sensor is manufcatured. I know some Sony sensors do have problems with lenses that were designed for film, the edge sharpness is just not there due to the stack of galss filters that are on top of the sensor.
Thank you, the 110 f2 performs great on digital. Especially when you keep in mind that it's a lens from the 60s. The modern blue ring Schneider Kreuznach lenses are still sharper and have a higher micro contrast.
Slick video guys, love it! The book is very nice indeed, you can just see so many concepts from it come alive in the BTS footage here and in other videos as well. Btw I never thought or didn't realize about CCD colours' benefits/characteristics in post processing, very intriguing.
Great! I used the S bodies in the past, they are very nice! Leica will win for out of camera colours for sure. P1 & M9 beat Hassy RAW but with editing can look amazing
So let me get this straight this other photographer uses vintage lens and does he put those images in his portfolio? And if he does they don't want him using vintage lens and they want everything sharp. But that's what they liked in his portfolio. Kind of makes no sense.
Two different subjects. For commercial work I use modern sharp Schneider Kreuznach lenses. Like product photography, food, architecture etc. For my personal work I use vintage lenses. Like nudes, bodypainting and model shoots in general.
Yes! It’s not til you play with the holes that you really see the magic. I had a light bulge moment after this video when I saw the difference during editing.
✅ NEW EBOOK - mrleica.com/ebook-model-photography-handbook/
✅ PRESETS - mrleica.com/presets/
📷 LIGHT LENS LAB discount code - bit.ly/3Xieazn
📷 CAMERA BAG: bit.ly/3Uiva6w
📷 SEE MY GEAR: mrleica.com/kitlist/
7 ways I can help you with your photography:
-------
1. Free Newsletter (Leica, Film & Reviews) - bit.ly/3OLE37t
2. eBooks - bit.ly/3ziRkQ9
3. Presets - bit.ly/4erCB4t
4. Free Welcome Pack for Leica owners - bit.ly/3MTuPUY
5. Join my Patreon community - bit.ly/4ewAhcd
6. Jump on a Call - bit.ly/3lBkdgq
7. Request a Workshop - bit.ly/47ISKjG
-------
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✅ SUBSCRIBED?: Don't miss another video! bit.ly/3qET0ZO
✅ NEED FILM?: mrleica.com/do-you-need-film/
✅ COFFEE: Thank Matt with a coffee - www.paypal.com/paypalme/MrLeica
Tobi IG @tobias.spranger
More Photos: Hasselblad mrleica.com/hasselblad-h3d-39-review/
✅ ZOOM: Not sure what camera/ lens to buy? Arrange a call - bit.ly/3lBkdgq
✅ SUBSCRIBED?: Don't miss another video! bit.ly/3qET0ZO
✅ NEED FILM?: mrleica.com/do-you-need-film/
✅ COFFEE: Thank Matt with a coffee - www.paypal.com/paypalme/MrLeica
Thanks Matt for having me as a guest in your video! It's a honor! Really appreciate the shoots with you! You're awesome!
One tip if you want your Canon to match Leica checkout Cobalt Image they have all kinds of camera profiles.
Thanks Tobi! Great few days
Thanks guys a great video and some superb photos 👏
Thank you Peter. It was a lot of fun. If you want to see more check out our socials the next days.
Thanks Peter!
super cool interview, finally two guys how adore ccd like me have a conversation which feels like i want to join, totally agree with your facts between ccd and cmos. i owned the m9 and the h3d 39 prob the best cams i ever owned, sold my 1dx m II and sony a7IV... they were super practical but the sensors had no soul or smth like that dont know how to describe it but you guys prob know what i mean :) good job guys ! :)
Thanks and great that you appreciate these great cameras too! Yes nice cameras for sure!
Fabulous interview.
Thanks!
Matt step up the game 🫶🏻
Ha thanks!
Very interesting Video, thank you! I wonder which of the Hassy‘s was the latest with a CCD sensor. I have searched a bit and found the H4D with a 40MP sensor. Has there been any CCD sensor with more resolution? And what is interesting for me, as the H4D is more expensive than the H3D: Are the upgrades worth it? I have read something about better autofocus, but as I would use this camera for „slow photography“ anyway, that’s not so much of an argument for me. Are there other features that would make that camera worth the higher price? And if I may ask one more question: Are the Phase One CCD Digibacks so much better? Or does one pay the brand name only?
Lots of questions - I do hope you find the time to answer them. Thanks again 😊
I only can answer to the Phase One related question. No the backs from Phase One are not better than the Hasselblad ones. Often they even share the same sensor. The price difference here is just because the 39mp back from Matt is arround 5 years older then my Phase One back, which came out in 2012. The older P45+ back is approximately the same price as the 39mp back from Hasselblad.
For Hassy I think the 60MP back was the last CCD. I’m happy with 39MP for now!
Thanks Tobi!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom 🙏😃
Love this subject ❤
Very interesting stuff.
Cool guy
Thanks for sharing🎉
Thank you!
Thanks! Yes Tobi is always on the Patreon calls. Join us!
i have used both,.. phase is amazing ,........
Agree!
Yes great setup! I’m
Happy with my Hassy but I like that can use any old lenses on p1
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom you happy which means worlds happy
Wow! What a wonderful overview of "how to" and CCD vs CMOS and with Toby who is knowledgeable, confident and not pushy. A great video. That HB is doing great things in your hands. It is always a pleasure to see your videos as you keep getting better and I am wondering just how much better will it get. Will we see you walking on water?
With your new HB I see better the charm of CCD in that it may not be more accurate bit it is more flattering, especially on skin tones and what do you shoot but skin tones? I have gone back and checked some of my old M9 pics and see it better now so thanks for that.
Just great work with that HB.
Thank you so much, it was a lot of fun with Matt. Glad we inspired you to go back to your M9 pictures. 🙂
Thanks Sandy!
Great to see you and Tobi had a blast on this trip, wish I can join you this time around in NYC, but October is one of my two craziest month of the year for productions. I have been trying to figure out how to power a H4D-40 back without its body, but the manual, even in the shooting with view camera section, did not mention any external power solution for the back/DCU. Not sure if the H3D is the same? I am hoping that they can be power with the same setup as the H5D and H6D via a Sony NPF power adapter. Do you have any insight on your H3D-39 regarding to that?
Thanks Rex, sorry I don’t. I’m less technical than most of you Patreons. I know some backs don’t talk to some bodies.
I have the H3D-39, and I absolutely love the BW from that camera.
Great! I’ve been happy too!
Say, left field question: I’d go for a type 240 for a particular look and even a 262; but I am finding a challenge to find batteries for either of these models. That’s for me a deal breaker. Do you guys have a solution?
You probably see I use a 262 abd have used a 240 for years. Great colours for a CMOS and for batteries try to buy camera with 2 batteries included. They last all day anyway especially with M262.
It all depends - we use all three and the Fuji GFX and others. They are all used for different things - Phase One never leaves the studio Schneider Kreuznach for fashion - very neutral - big files can do a lot with them. H6D100c is the daddy for T+S . Leica M ( SL2 with M lenses) for our editorial team, Fuji GFX for outdoors when its wet and in the UK it's rarely dry. Best for colour - well you may not know but when Hass bought Imacaon Imaging, what they really bought and then renamed was HNCS. We also have Hass 907xCFV100c and 2 X2D's and a bunch of Fuji GX680II's but the best for colour is the Hass H6D100c - far better than X series - bigger sensor etc - but its close - I personally hate the Fuji system because it is far too complicated and stuggle with some of their lenses - the 110mm has strange artefacts when heavily processed - and we did have our hands on the 30mm T+S and the 110mm T+S but they are a bit hopeless in comparison to the Hass system. We are though turning our attention more to the HAss X series and will be transitioning away from large medium format!!!!.
Thank you, really interesting how you use all the systems. For commercial the Phase One stays in the studio most of the time also.
Thanks! You really have the best of the best to pick from so it’s nice how you use each one.
One of the best things I love about film is that I have maybe more than 100 different sensors from which to choose.LOL!
When I grow up, Matt, I want to be you!
Thanks. I was shooting film too with H3D
I heard Leica is working on a medium format Mirrorless camera I think it comes out in a two or three years.
Would be really nice to see something new. Hopefully it's 6x4,5 and no crop...
That would be cool!
Agreed!
Interesting Content!
Thank you Jeff!
Thanks Jeff!
Just to be clear, if I want to get a CMOS M9 which sensor should it have other than the original one? I also heard that some other (not Kodak) manufacturer made replacement sensors. Is that true?Thanks and great video.
ID15 & ID16 are safe, nothing else. (Sensor UD). Google it to get details. (Tobi says)
Pilsen! Wow. I'd be very surprised if I'd meet you on the street :D That's cool ;)
If you do so, please stop us! 🙂Could be that we'll be there again sometimes...
Ha thanks! Never say never! I plan to visit again for more shoots :)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom If you come to Pilsen again, let me know ;) I'm really good friend with guys from Godox CZ. You could test some news or maybe use their studio ;)
I haven't tried any of the cameras listed in the title, lol, but I feel very confident that the M10 24mp sensor is the best color sensor out there. It seems like sensors that strive for ultimate dynamic range sacrifice color and contrast to get that. When I shoot the A7iv next to the M10, the m10 consistently has more color depth.
Yes, we did a comparison in March this year with the M9, M10 (from Matt) and an EOS R, all the same lens on. The M10 holds up quite well in terms of color. Definitely a great camera.
Ha thanks. Yes M10 should beat Sony colours. :) it’s a great modern sensor
Where can we see pictures taken with the M9 and the old Sonnar lens?
I agree, that it is not easy to match the look of even further edited M9 photos when modern CMOS cameras are the raw source. I don't think it's a special property of CCD sensors, but rather of the subsequent signal processing, which in the M9 is still tuned to a look that should be close to Kodachrome.
Thanks, follow us both on Instagram (and for me the blog etc too for full res samples)
Hello about Canon colour rendering. Lightroom is clearly not suitable. I use phaseone for Canon Raw. It’s better. I've also found that files from the leica m262 monochrome render better using phaseone software. Thanks for the video
Agree, but it belongs to the situation. Sometimes CaptureOne is better, sometimes LR.
Sorry, I was talking about capture one😂
Thanks Marc!
Note* the photos were not comparable for close up detailed testing (as each lens adds variations) so I show the basic colour differences only
Tobi, which Lightroom presets are you using with your Canon R5 if you decide to emulate the brown colors of the Leica M9 in your workflow?
@@elliotresnick5433 Tobi makes his own presets like me
@is there a link to his presets for Canon R5? I thought you said he reads these comments…
Hi Tobias! Thanks for the insights! Depending on the lighting, apparently the Leica M9 can make the skin tones too brown, so one has the reduce the saturation. Do you experience this with the CCD sensor on the Phase One too?
I saw raw files from both and they can look very similar (in a nice way). I’ll let Tobi confirm
The RAWs from the M9 and the IQ180 are quite the same color and contrast. But when they are to brown it's mostly the exposure or/and the white balance. Always go manual for both. The auto metering of both cameras isn't the best.
I really enjoyed this! I love leaf shutter lenses as well. Tobias could easily be a model himself!👍
Haha thank you! 🙂I'd wish to have some vintage leaf shutter lenses for the Phase One. The existing ones are all quite modern.
@@TobiasSpranger I hope you find the vintage lens you're looking for. How are Rodenstock lenses?
@@LucyS565 Thank you, I don't give up. The Rodenstock are great, but mostly wide angle and for technical cameras.
@@TobiasSpranger Thank you so much for your replies.
Thanks Lucy! Tobi will love that comment :)
Best guest so far! And gorgeous models… well it is Czech after all. 😊
Thank you! Yes we had really great models! Watch out for mor on the socials, there are some good photos comming. ;-)
Thanks! I need to get a few more cool guests I think!
ohh please 😂Colors are not CCD vs CMOS. A color science is a color science. Every camera has its own algorithm to interpret values from the pixels.
This is old argument from the non-tech savvy people when CMOS was a new tech. Basically CMOS was little bit more noisy but was offering faster readout and was less expensive.
New BSI sensors are beating everything that was before including advanced CCD sensors. PhaseOne is just a great company who cares about the color from the beginning to the end. I am using Capture one with Sony a7IV and Fuji X100V and colors are great. Even when I dig out my old RAWs from Canon 5Dmk3 the pictures have nicer starting look.
But yeah, don't fall for that CCD vs CMOS argument. It is all about RAW engine (which is also editable).
When the file isn't better, then the camera/system motivates me to do better photos. I'm also fine with that.
It's all about high quality bayer color filter array. A low cost muddy red channel filtering will never output rich red, sorry raw engines ai and other software cheats
Thanks, yes as long as the images look great I don’t care ..but it just so happens the M9, H3D of those I’ve owned both have amazing colours. I can edit Hassy CCD files easier/ better for skin I’m now finding making colour work much more fun.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom yes I also noticed this ease of color processing with my H3D and to a lesser extent the M10. I am convinced that part of the explanation for the high price of these devices is in the cost of this high quality filtering. low-cost CMOS with poor bayer filtering must be heavily pre-processed by on-board RAW engine, leaving little room for adjustment in image post processing
I am sure the 110 F2 was designed for the Hasselblad 2000CF series cameras. The F lenses do not have a leaf shutter, as I remember and rely on the focal plane shutter of the camera. I think you can use the CF lenses of an F body, but not an F lens on a C/CF body. The F series cameras were mostly used outdoors with natural light where the 1/500 sync speed of the C/CF lenses was not required. The lack of the leaf shutter also made the lenses a bit more affordable in Hasselblad terms. As far as I remember the F lenses wee very high performance lenses and if they don't perform on digital it is perhaps a conflict with the way the sensor is manufcatured. I know some Sony sensors do have problems with lenses that were designed for film, the edge sharpness is just not there due to the stack of galss filters that are on top of the sensor.
Thank you, the 110 f2 performs great on digital. Especially when you keep in mind that it's a lens from the 60s. The modern blue ring Schneider Kreuznach lenses are still sharper and have a higher micro contrast.
Great stuff thanks. Yes I agree with most of that as I know too.
Im not buying CCD vs CMOS. It rather big sensor vs small sensor, just bring in X2D and check your skintones process
Yes big sensors help give the pleasing look!
Slick video guys, love it! The book is very nice indeed, you can just see so many concepts from it come alive in the BTS footage here and in other videos as well. Btw I never thought or didn't realize about CCD colours' benefits/characteristics in post processing, very intriguing.
Thank you Thomas! Nice you spotted some similarities. I tried to catch as much as possible behind the scenes footage for Matt.
Matt, I use the Leica S type 007 (started with the S2 and S type 006 which were CCD). I would love to compare. Also, Prague!!
Great! I used the S bodies in the past, they are very nice! Leica will win for out of camera colours for sure. P1 & M9 beat Hassy RAW but with editing can look amazing
the pic of the girl with trasprent top at the end has moire ,... how come ?????
I think the Hasselblad 100mm f2.2 on Matts H3 is just to sharp for the back without an AA filter.
@@TobiasSpranger oh ok ok ,. how about shooting on film, the film shlould'nt have that issue right ???? as it's silhouette
@@dbombd Yes, on film it'll be fine. You also can get rid of the effect in post.
I see Tobi answered for me (thanks!), yes no issue on film for this for sure!
.. it sometimes looks different depending on screen size/ zoomed in etc too
Unfortunately my H3DII 31 also suffers from corrosion😔
Sad to hear.
Interesting. I’ve never heard this
i just acquired an IQ180 for less than 3000€, prices are rock bottom
Congrats!! Yes they are giving this stuff away, it's nuts.
Crazy cheap! Have fun and take great pictures!
The ads jumping in too often.. Sharpness has become stupid idea and method!
Sorry, we are not under control of the ads. True, sharpness is for sure no criterion to say if a photo is good or not.
Thanks Jason. All ads are automated now sadly. It seems more as it’s a longer video. Yes we’re not looking at sharpness in this video.
So let me get this straight this other photographer uses vintage lens and does he put those images in his portfolio? And if he does they don't want him using vintage lens and they want everything sharp. But that's what they liked in his portfolio. Kind of makes no sense.
Two different subjects. For commercial work I use modern sharp Schneider Kreuznach lenses. Like product photography, food, architecture etc.
For my personal work I use vintage lenses. Like nudes, bodypainting and model shoots in general.
@@TobiasSpranger Ok makes sense. Thank you.
No if you check the video Tobi uses soft lenses for models (for fun) and the best lenses for clients (non-portraits)(buildings etc)
Nice to see that people stil belive in CCD vs CMOS myth.
Yes! It’s not til you play with the holes that you really see the magic. I had a light bulge moment after this video when I saw the difference during editing.
Too Tech! Boring!
Thanks for your honesty as always Jason. Yes this one was more detailed
Thanks for the motivation to shoot more beautiful models. 🙂
@@TobiasSpranger I dont want tech perfect nor do modles, who are People!