Can you do a video going in detail explains all different primers used in the trade, telling about when to use them and how to use liek which ones you need to scuff after put on, how many coats you usually need of whichever and which ones you can just paint right over etc.. would help heaps and also when you can just scuff the paint and paint over without using primer
100% because you used the epoxy primer, hi fill primer etc.. just explaining like how to use the epoxy or echt primer, the difference between the 2. Can you paint directly over them or if you can’t, why? And how many coats do you use when doing so, do they need to be sealed with hi fill the same day that type of stuff. Even knowing just how to properly clean the bare metal and removing rust pits would be just great insight would be highly appreciated
Thanks for Sharing mate, I do rust repairs and resprays (well, 3 resprays so far) in my tiny shed in Central Victoria, and I have watched your channel for years, and appreciate the insight. I agree with your view on the high end restoration stuff. I fabricated replaced a inner guard, some sill sections, and installed a rear quarter on an AMC javelin recently for a mate, and then sprayed the whole car. I made sure to treat surface rust, treat cavities, 2k epoxy all bare areas, used fibreglass filler where possible. For 100 hours work - he now has a very tidy (but not perfect) car, that should stay that way for a long time. This car i did in acrylic (which i wont do again) - but your video on using it was a great help. Keep Painting Sh%t and recording it :)
Just wanted to mention a really good way to sand blast without a massive compressor and lots of dust is to use a gas power washer (ideally 3 gallons per minute +, maybe 2.5 works not sure, 1.5 definitely will not) and a sandblast attachment from amazon, the one with the thick clear hose with blue spiral, aluminum body with thick black nozzle and thumbscrew near the power washer quick connect inlet. It removes the thickest scale quick and shouldnt overheat the panel like dry blast can. it eats sand so i used tarps to catch, dry and reuse the sand a couple times.
Great video Gunny, love the colour you used on your Torana plus the gloss you got from it after all the flatting and polishing you did on it I don't think you would have got a better finish if you had done a full nut and bolt restoration with no filler in the car, striving for perfection would be a never ending task which can take years then people get board of it so it never gets done, what you did is just what the car needed and I hope you enjoy it for many years to come👏🙏👍John UK
Excellent work man, u should be very proud, killer colour too. Big difference in a slick street car and street machine of the year. In labour and cost and time. Negative comments come from people who can do neither.
Awesome job man alot of hours put into that thing body work looks really neat and the paint looks slick hope you enjoy the car, one similar on the Iron Empire, you might enjoy his videos, cheers for the videos have a good one gunny
Awesome job mate I have learnt quite a lot from your videos over the past few months so thanks, ps the dragway splats you had on there at the start of the video suit these cars better 😏😜😂
Love this work on old beaten car that arent worth the troubles. That means one word, passion and love for your job. Life it's not all about the money and investements and this is the clearest example. In my opinion, Files and bare metal works i would do for 100k + cars, the rest with bondo is perfectly fine and nobody will tell any differences.
I have seen on more than one occasion where someone that loves their car for 20 years, gets it blasted to find old repairs and resents the car they loved and never drives it again, perfect metal work does not make your enjoyment behind the wheel any different, Just enjoy your car is the message 100%
G'day, Mr Gunman. I'm with you all the way on this subject. I'm doing a 1967 split window cargo van at the moment, and no way will it be file finished. Q. I have a gti pro lite. What cap and fluid tip should I use for spraying base coat. So thanks for sharing the knowledge man ✌️ Peace from Melbourne/Pakenham 3810.
Brother I’ve been watching you for fucking years lol and years been through your whole RUclips journey and I got to say this sort of content is sweet Aussie muscle brother good video cheers
Haha tell me about im over working on the land rover resto im on. Nice to paint something every day 😅 live n learn. Street machine show cars most are full of bog. Not many people have the skill for metal finishing 👊
I agree with a lot you have said in this video and yes not every car deserves an all metal finish but in my opinion distinct reason a person may want an all metal finish with minimal filler and that is simply it will hold its straightness from when it’s finished til pretty much for ever. You can’t really absolutely guarantee that the polyester fillers/primers will not shrink back over time and ruin its straight finish if a car is all metal there and if there is any shrink back from your high build primer or polyester it’s not going to ruin the finish because it’s pretty much dead straight underneath them. I’m not trying to hate or critique your video like i said I like your opinion on a job like you are doing for affordable classics not every car warrants or deserves a metal finish but I’m just sharing my opinion over why one may want it done on their own car.
Love the sentiments. I do believe there is probably a correlation between people wo know nothing and want perfection and people who know a lot and are willing to live with less than perfect body paneling. I've heard some guys like to do PDR prior to paint work for less filler for sure. Regardless I'm just a fan with my specialty "hobby" being mechanical repair. I look at all this paint as a fantastic place to go next to continue my hobbies!
That’s every scrap yards dream that someone brings that in
Can you do a video going in detail explains all different primers used in the trade, telling about when to use them and how to use liek which ones you need to scuff after put on, how many coats you usually need of whichever and which ones you can just paint right over etc.. would help heaps and also when you can just scuff the paint and paint over without using primer
That would be awesome.
A breakdown on what materials you used.
From the very start to finish.
Both great content ideas, I'll brainstorm
100% because you used the epoxy primer, hi fill primer etc.. just explaining like how to use the epoxy or echt primer, the difference between the 2. Can you paint directly over them or if you can’t, why? And how many coats do you use when doing so, do they need to be sealed with hi fill the same day that type of stuff. Even knowing just how to properly clean the bare metal and removing rust pits would be just great insight would be highly appreciated
Love it… is it going okay now ?
Yes please. That would be a good video.
Thanks for Sharing mate, I do rust repairs and resprays (well, 3 resprays so far) in my tiny shed in Central Victoria, and I have watched your channel for years, and appreciate the insight. I agree with your view on the high end restoration stuff. I fabricated replaced a inner guard, some sill sections, and installed a rear quarter on an AMC javelin recently for a mate, and then sprayed the whole car. I made sure to treat surface rust, treat cavities, 2k epoxy all bare areas, used fibreglass filler where possible. For 100 hours work - he now has a very tidy (but not perfect) car, that should stay that way for a long time. This car i did in acrylic (which i wont do again) - but your video on using it was a great help. Keep Painting Sh%t and recording it :)
My Dad was one of the men who made this car, and my favourite RUclipsr is the guy who saved it. Cool.
I do like sealing it all up with polyester primer as it doesnt shrink back at all and allows a final block without risking bare metal exposure.
Just wanted to mention a really good way to sand blast without a massive compressor and lots of dust is to use a gas power washer (ideally 3 gallons per minute +, maybe 2.5 works not sure, 1.5 definitely will not) and a sandblast attachment from amazon, the one with the thick clear hose with blue spiral, aluminum body with thick black nozzle and thumbscrew near the power washer quick connect inlet. It removes the thickest scale quick and shouldnt overheat the panel like dry blast can. it eats sand so i used tarps to catch, dry and reuse the sand a couple times.
You may not have gone for perfection, but it ended up pretty dam close my friend!
You are the man I saw u put roll of tape around arm now I won't lose my tape
Great video Gunny, love the colour you used on your Torana plus the gloss you got from it after all the flatting and polishing you did on it I don't think you would have got a better finish if you had done a full nut and bolt restoration with no filler in the car, striving for perfection would be a never ending task which can take years then people get board of it so it never gets done, what you did is just what the car needed and I hope you enjoy it for many years to come👏🙏👍John UK
Excellent work man, u should be very proud, killer colour too. Big difference in a slick street car and street machine of the year. In labour and cost and time. Negative comments come from people who can do neither.
That looks the bollox! Imagine if you chased perfection! This is perfection in my eyes
I saw your car on the road a month or so back … looked killer
Awesome job man alot of hours put into that thing body work looks really neat and the paint looks slick hope you enjoy the car, one similar on the Iron Empire, you might enjoy his videos, cheers for the videos have a good one gunny
The end result shows the good work prepping nice car
Perfect is the enemy of good enough.
Awesome job mate I have learnt quite a lot from your videos over the past few months so thanks, ps the dragway splats you had on there at the start of the video suit these cars better 😏😜😂
I would have left them on if they fit over the AU breaks 😫
I got basically same car in my garage. It's UK Vauxhall Victor VX2300 . I hope one day I get a chance to play with it.
Gunny,can we have a video on clear coat the ideal pressure and tip size if you havent done one already?
Love this work on old beaten car that arent worth the troubles. That means one word, passion and love for your job. Life it's not all about the money and investements and this is the clearest example.
In my opinion, Files and bare metal works i would do for 100k + cars, the rest with bondo is perfectly fine and nobody will tell any differences.
Couldn't agree more mate
very reasonable approach and excellent result!
I have seen on more than one occasion where someone that loves their car for 20 years, gets it blasted to find old repairs and resents the car they loved and never drives it again, perfect metal work does not make your enjoyment behind the wheel any different,
Just enjoy your car is the message 100%
And it's nearly always unnoticed, I mean you couldn't tell the difference if there's a few extra skims of filler.
Great looking car Gunny! Doing this kind of work to an old car has a way of soothing the soul. 👌👌
And draining the bank account 😆
Требуется ангельское терпение, что бы восстанавливать подобные автомобили. Удачи бро из России!
Another gud vid Gunny, from the UK 🎉😊
Well worth the work. 👌
Thanks 4 cutting thru the BS. You should have torch welded the torana😅
Just get it on the road . There are thousands of projects that will never get finished, sitting in sheds . At least yours is on the road
Spot on
Good job good job. 😎🚘 cool..👏😊
G'day,
Mr Gunman.
I'm with you all the way on this subject. I'm doing a 1967 split window cargo van at the moment, and no way will it be file finished.
Q. I have a gti pro lite. What cap and fluid tip should I use for spraying base coat.
So thanks for sharing the knowledge man ✌️ Peace from Melbourne/Pakenham 3810.
Honestly you're safe using either T110 TE20-10 in summer if your compressor is big enough probably 20, winter either 10-110. Hope that helps
👌
I once spent 5 months restoring a door. A fucking door. What a waste of time!
Brother I’ve been watching you for fucking years lol and years been through your whole RUclips journey and I got to say this sort of content is sweet Aussie muscle brother good video cheers
Haha tell me about im over working on the land rover resto im on. Nice to paint something every day 😅 live n learn. Street machine show cars most are full of bog. Not many people have the skill for metal finishing 👊
Perfection is paralysis. Bog it up, SON!
🔥 🔥 🔥 🔥
I agree with a lot you have said in this video and yes not every car deserves an all metal finish but in my opinion distinct reason a person may want an all metal finish with minimal filler and that is simply it will hold its straightness from when it’s finished til pretty much for ever. You can’t really absolutely guarantee that the polyester fillers/primers will not shrink back over time and ruin its straight finish if a car is all metal there and if there is any shrink back from your high build primer or polyester it’s not going to ruin the finish because it’s pretty much dead straight underneath them. I’m not trying to hate or critique your video like i said I like your opinion on a job like you are doing for affordable classics not every car warrants or deserves a metal finish but I’m just sharing my opinion over why one may want it done on their own car.
Love the sentiments. I do believe there is probably a correlation between people wo know nothing and want perfection and people who know a lot and are willing to live with less than perfect body paneling.
I've heard some guys like to do PDR prior to paint work for less filler for sure.
Regardless I'm just a fan with my specialty "hobby" being mechanical repair. I look at all this paint as a fantastic place to go next to continue my hobbies!
Haters gonna hate fella, you did an awesome job, cheers for filming the journey 🍻..
Turned out awesome awesome gunny. Love the colour! Regards from Ireland mate!