Very nice video. After watching the video I think that I will give it a try. I had not planned on this kind of fence until I read on here that it was invented in 1844 wow.
Bill Davis Yeah its amazing how long ago chainlink fence was first invented, I was amazed, over 170 years ago! This method is very easy, I'm positive you will be happy with the results. Cheers, Luke
I build plastic models, mainly aircraft. About 25 years ago, Monogram had just released a 1/48th scale F-84 and wanted to show it on the tarmac, but then decided to add a perimeter fence. Had a bunch of wedding veil left over from when sister got married a year earlier.....NEVER throw anything away around me. Used round, plastic tubing for fence posts, but never thought about measuring the distance between them, just eye balled it to where it looked right. Like you, used super glue to bond veil to posts. Added grass on both sides of fence. Thanks for the video because this and your other videos help those who haven't seen/thought of something like this before.
Cheers mate, this is an old technique but there's not a lot of info online about making chain link fences. It looks like you have a great technique, it's probably a little easier using plastic fence posts as opposed to soldering the wire? Cheers Luke
To straighten coiled wire, cut off a section, and secure one end in a vice or wrap around some needle-nose pliers. use a 2nd set of pliers to wrap and secure the other end. Pull one end until you feel the wire yield (stretch) slightly. Release the tension, and carefully release the wire. It will be perfectly straight. This method works great with soft metals.
This is different than what I made. 8 months into modeling now. I used my wifes hair nets stretched over a plastic hanger sprayed with metallic paint. Using fireplace match sticks made my fence! I like both. Thanks for sharing!
+Pastor Leonard Williams CAYA Sounds like a good idea, the hardest part I find is finding a material with small enough holes but not too small and not too large. Stretching a stocking would work quite well. That's something I'll definitely have to try. Thanks for the tips Cheers Luke.
Revisiting an old video. You can straighten wire by chucking one end into a drill and secure the other end in a vice or a screw in a piece of wood, just so the other end is secured. Turn on the drill and go at it till it breaks of just before it breaks and the wire will be perfectly straight. I picked up my roll of tulle from the fabric store, $3.50 for a 6 yard roll with our local discount. Now I've got to get my 18 gauge wire. I think that using an airbrush would be preferable over rattle can paint. You can get a much finer spray from an airbrush. Cheers from eastern TN
+cokidjazz Yeah I use it all the time! I actually just posted my latest video on Patreon and I once again use blu-tack to help solder. The video will be up on RUclips this Saturday. Cheers Luke
Luke, I noticed you had coiled wire... here's a trick to straighten it: Cut the wire to a rough length, they put one end in a vise and pull (stretch) the wire with pliers! Works like a charm! Gets it nice and straight.
Tim W Thanks Tim, I'll definitely have to try that on the next set of fences I build, which will be very soon! I've also been looking for straight wire that has already been straightened. The hardware store sells it as tie wire....? I think? Cheers for the tip Luke.
Luke Towan Hi Luke, Great videos, I like your style. Regarding the wire straightening - as Tim says use a vice and pliers. Hold one end of the wire in the vice, hold the wire tightly with the pliers and then, most importantly, allow the wire to go really slack and give a fast, sharp tug to straighten wire. Works a treat, I learned the tip when training as a silversmith and have never forgotten. By the way, solid core electrical copper wire works really well and a friendly electrician will provide lots of off-cuts (aka short ends) of suitable cable for the price of a beer. Happy modelling - I have subscribed as I love your vids, Regards Terry
Hi Luke, Thanks for the great videos. Very informative and to the point. An easy tip for straightening wire. Take about a 1 meter length of wire and clamp the one end in the chuck of your battery drill/screwdriver. Grab the other end with a pair of pliers (alternatively clamp it in your bench vice) and pull tight. Now slowly start to turn the drill while holding the wire tight. After a few turns the wire will be straight and it will hold its shape. H T H. Happy modeling! Johan de Villiers
You can straighten coiled wire by clamping an end in a bench-vice, taking the other end in some locking pliers and give it a tug. You will feel it stretch a bit, and then it will be arrow straight. it takes a little practice, but it's pretty easy.
Thanks for the great demonstration. I had a go at making the fence and the results where pleasing. After several failed attempts to get the wire straight I ended up rolling the small pieces between to heavy bits of flat metal. Thanks for the inspiration
Graeme Schulz that's a great idea for straightening the wire! I'm glad you had a go at making the fence, I did a recent video where I add barbed wire to a corrugated iron fence, I reckon it would look pretty good on the chain link fence! Cheers, Luke.
Luke, A trick I learned some 50 years ago to straighten curly wire. Take a length of the wire, up to about a metre long, and clamp the end into a solid vice. Grab the other end of the wire with a good pair of pliers. Pull the wire taught, If need be put your foot against the vice, and give it a solid pull. The wire may stretch a few millimetres, but after a little practice you should end up with a straight length of wire. By the way, excellent videos, thank you. Michael, Tullarine.
Really well done Luke. Well explained and the fence looks very realistic. A bigger wattage soldering iron would assist in soldering the larger gauge wire. Yes please keep the tutorials coming.
Richard Redcastle Thanks for the tip Richard, my soldering iron really struggled with that wire! I'll definitely do some more videos. Got some more home made scenery ideas that I think a lot of people will like.
tony griffin Thanks Tony, I will most definitely be making more videos. I have plenty of ideas to share, some good and others probably not as good but still handy stuff to know. Thanks for the great comment :)
Good evening Luke, I noticed you had trouble with the 18g wire curling. You may like to try a trick i learnt about 50 years ago. Clamp one end of the wire in a fairly solid bench vice and grab the other end with a solid pair of pliers. Put your foot against the vice if the bench is not firmly fixed and give the wire a short, sharp tug to stretch the wire a very small amount. At the same time, you should end up with a straight piece of wire. Michael C, Melbourne.
Hi Michael, thanks for the tip 😊 I had a couple of others suggest similar methods of straightening the wire which I've since tried and I was surprised at how well it worked! It's a great tip and like you I'm sure I'll hold onto that advice for at least 50 years 😊 assuming I survive that long... Thanks again Michael Cheers Luke
Thanks for the great tutorial, Luke. You covered the details very clearly and understandably. It was a pleasure to watch, and it makes me want to find a spot for some chain link fence on my new layout.
Another outstanding video. Didn't know you could make chain link fence so cheaply but looks so realistic. Keep 'em comin' -- the videos, that is, mate.
I bought cheap silicon baking sheets from the dollar store ( half as big again as an A4 sheet or thereabouts). Cost me about $3-4 and I glue and paint on that. None of my glues stick to it anyway and easy to clean hot glue and paint off it by throwing it in the washing machine or under the tap. I also cut one up into smallish squares and use it when clamping anything. Nothing sticks to it and it helps the clamps leave no marks. Love your work Luke, the attention to detail is spectacular and really makes the difference.
That is a fantastic idea! I wish I had thought of that earlier. I'm about to build a big batch of fence so I'll definitely be using your method. Cheers Luke
Excellent! I have now tried and successfully emulated your methods on chain link fencing many times for my model rail road set in an industrial park with private rail company. The one modification I think you might like is that I now tend to make the vertical posts about 1 cm longer and bend them forward once they clear the top rail. This gives an opportunity to string a single strand of tulle (cut ridiculously carefully from the off cuts of the fence) along the top. Three of these strands end up a bit twisted and twirled within them selves so when the painting stage is reached and the tauten up sufficiently, the viciousness of the 'barbed' wire is just a little over scale but all the better for it. The layout is set in the 1970s so security became a bit more important than the most often modeled 1950s era. Thank you again for the EXCELLENT tutorials...keep them coming. Where can I get "Sclupamold" in Queensland?
+Franklin Anders Thanks mate for the great tip on modifying the fence, I could imagine that would look fantastic! The only place I've found Sculptamold at a reasonable price is "Adelaide Moulds and Castings Supplies", the can post and the price is reasonable. I think Riots art and craft sell it as well but very expensive. Cheers Luke.
What a great tip, I have a section on my layout that requires about 5 feet of chain linked fence , this tip will defiantly fit the bill.Thanks for sharing.Darick
Beautiful looking fence and really nicely done video! I would suggest using a sheet of waxed paper taped down to the plywood for the step where you add the tulle to the fence frame. It will keep the superglue from cementing the fence to the board.
+Toni Ryan Thanks for the great tip Toni, that would make so much sense! Sometimes it takes a simple idea from someone else to make the biggest difference :) Thanks again Cheers Luke
Hey Luke. An old metal shop trick to straiten wire is to put one end in a vice and the other end in the chuck of your battery drill on low speed. twist the wire slowly and watch it straiten. It will also work harden the wire and make it much more likely to hold any shape you want to give it.
had to watch this again ... Although I bought the tule I also found some seethrough /transparent... gray/silver ribbon at the craft store I visited on that trip that may be more suited to N scale links as the holes are finer ... going to try your method for the posts and railing on the ribbon first but the tule looks great!
+D Price Cool, the silver ribbon for N scale sounds like a good idea, you'll have to let me know how you go. I've often looked around for N scale material but find it tough to find! Good luck, I'm confident it will work. Cheers Luke
Babe! Your videos are so engaging especially for someone like me who has no interest in 'train modelling'. I watched the whole video and I thought the end bit about the Manikins' 'looking shifty' very funny! Well done!...Very impressive (I better get back to studying now - see you tomorrow handsome). Anna - impressed wife.
Phillip McCallum No worries, it's so simple to do and you will definitely be happy with the results. It looks better to the natural eye as opposed to seeing it on a video. Thanks for the great feedback. Cheers, Luke
Scott Downey yeah, fly screen wire is a little course and the gaps are pretty wide, the nylon tulle works pretty well. Good luck with the fence build, cheers Luke.
If you clamp one end of the your wire a vise and hold the other end with a pair of pliers and then snap the wire, this will straighten the wire quickly.
+FishplateFilms lol, good work. I usually try to post all the info where I can, sometimes if the info isn't in the video I might include it in the description area. A little tip I learnt since posting this video is to have every third or forth upright post a little longer so it can be pressed into the layout or mounted in small holes, that way it's a little more secure and less likely to topple over. Cheers Luke
You've done it again Luke ma boy!! I may even try this, it may be just in my skill level..LOL Was the wire copper and where did you get the super glue with the brush?? Very nice , professional tutorials mate, I know how much work goes into shooting scenes this well lit and composed! Cheers Gregg.
Thanks so much for posting this. Very professionally made tutorial, no waffle, very clearly shot. Have you considered using a single piece of wire for the horizontals? (Was it the rolled nature of your wire supply that made you go for cut sections?)
Browntau Thankyou for the comment, I did think about a single horizontal wire but I also wanted to have a small part of the vertical pole sticking out the top. But I guess it all depends on how you want to design your fence, a single horizontal wire could work wonders for a specific design. thanks for the idea and great comment. Cheers, Luke.
Hi Luke, enjoyed watching this project. I tried this using aluminum wire and it did not work. Were you using aluminum wire as well? Thanks for your help!
+Mike Burton I'm using galvanized steel, it's usually used for fencing I think? Some solders work better depending on the type of wire so if you have a bunch of wire already it might be worth trying a different solder? Cheers Luke
So Luke, Finaly a moment to say that I appreciate your tutorials how-to. I found this one about fences for make my own one. Now trying to find the right tule. Whats your latest tutorial on RUclips and have made progress whit projects? Grtz from Koen Frijlink, Holland.
+Koenie1972 I hope you can fine the tulle you need, I'm about to post a video about making Hay Bales on Sunday. Hope you like that one as well. Cheers Luke
+Luke Towan Hi, Luke You can find a testresult on my topic on Beneluxspoorforum.nl, name : NS264 Midland industrial modelrailways (modelspoor) NS IV (Dutch Railways) But I didn't find the right tulle yet but it's a try-out. Cheers. Koen.
The best way to solder the wire would be to tin the parts first then jig it up like you did and then reapply the heat to the pretinned parts. Less solder to worry about cleaning up at the joints.
Top tip Luke! I need to find the equivalent to that blue sticky putty here in the Colonies. Brilliant stuff!! Also need to find that nylon mesh is called here, and where to get it... That looks far better than the overpriced, crap looking, ready made fencing.
Carmine Allocca Thanks again mate, I guess you could use playdoh or clay, but I guess it would eventually harden.... and very quick in summer!? I'm sure you'll find the equivalent, I think I've heard people call it poster tack or something like that? Cheers Luke.
Hi luke i nedd some help!!!!! i am a begginer and iwant to build this AWESOME fence and i would like to know what kind of wir did you use: aluminum, brass, tin, copper etc/ please answer quick
Excellent tutorial Luke! The use of that nylon tulle is a brilliant idea and gives a very realistic finish. Love the quality of your videos and editing and was wondering what editor you use but also understand if you prefer to not say, but really appreciate how professional they are :) - Sim
Hi Sim, thanks for the positive feedback, I really appreciate it. I put alot of effort into the presentation of my videos so its good to see some people like it :) I use a combination of programs to put the videos together, I use Adobe Photo Shop for some of the stills and the video thumbnail, I use Adobe After Effects to add detail to the video like the title intro and other special effects, color correction, lower third titles, green screen to name a few, and finally I piece it all together using Adobe Premiere Pro, which enables me to easily cut and move pieces of footage around to create the final video. Cheers Luke
Luke Towan Thanks for the info Luke, it is much appreciated. I am fairly familiar with using Adobe Photoshop but never used After Effects or Premier Pro, will have to see about taking a look at them, thanks. Meanwhile, I look forward to seeing more of your excellent use of them :) - Sim
Hello. I'm wanting to build a 1/24 scale diorama for my 1/24 scale diecast model cars and I would like a realistic looking chain link fence to go along with it. How do I go about doing that?
in 1/24 scale 1/2 inch is 1 foot in real life.. so a 3 foot post would be 1 1/2 inches... does that help. I build dollhouses and roomboxes in 1/12 or 1/24 scale and I take the real life size and convert it down.
+Elaine Hays I did have an N scale British layout but have mostly been working in HO scale. I'll probably go back to N scale at some stage but at the moment I pretty busy with the HO scale stuff. Cheers Luke.
+Colin Mansell That's a tough question to answer, I'm not sure if there are different grades of nylon tulle? I basically just went down to the local craft store and slowly picked through what they had until I found something usable. I guess you could try the same and see if there is a fine enough material that would do the job? Some ribbons have a fine mesh like texture so it might be worth looking at ribbons as well. Hope that gets you on the right track. Cheers Luke
yeah it would work, you'd probably just need to find a nylon tulle that was a little finer with smaller holes. Most fabric store have a selection of tulle with different grades.
Well so far I've tried Stainless Steel Wire from K&D (s?).....It would not take to soldering. After researching the subject of soldering stainless I've found that one needs to use an acidic flux like Kester 817 and a solder with a high silver content so I scrapped that idea and went out and bought 18 ga solid aluminum wire. That didn't work either. Like Stainless the oxides that form on the surface prevent solder from sticking. So I looked at the video again more closely and noted that you used galvanized steel wire. Who is the manufacturer and where can I get it? Are there better metals to solder to? Copper for instance, as long as you will be painting the assembly does the color matter. Your input is most welcome.
I didn't think the type of wire made that much difference! It's quite interesting hearing about your experiences however I can certainly say brass wire or copper wire would definitely work, I've seen many modellers use brass and it takes solder quite well and copper would be very similar. Good luck with finding the best material, I'd be very interested to find out what works best for you. Cheers Luke.
+Luke Towan Thanks for the reply Luke. I've been looking at a number of your videos and have to say they are quite impressive. I too like a lot of attention to scenic detailing. At some point I would like to send you some pictures of a layout I have been detailing for the past 30 years. Did you mention a brand of wire you are using and where you can get it from. From you accent I suppose you are from the land down under and I live in the Northeast United states. As an aside there is an annual convention of master craftsman model builders. Here is the site: modelrailroadexpo.com/. It is occurring on the end of March and beginning of April. Check it out!!! I have Friends in Brisbane...
+Luke Towan I am now a veritable 18ga wire store. I have 110' of galvanized steel, 25' of copper, 50' of aluminum and around 3' of stainless ....(and a partridge in a pear tree). Completely exhausting .... Turns out the galvanized and copper solder just fine!!!! Off to making chain link fence!!!!!
Oh wow, it sounds like you've been busy. I used to live in Brisbane but have since moved to Adelaide. I wish I could make it to the expo! I'll have to start saving and try to make it to the 2017 expo, I work for Qantas and can get cheap tickets on staff travel but it can still be quit expensive. Have fun building the fence, the only thing I'd do different is make a few of the verticle posts longer so you can push them into the scenery base, that way they are held in place more securely. Cheers Luke
Very nice video. After watching the video I think that I will give it a try. I had not planned on this kind of fence until I read on here that it was invented in 1844 wow.
Bill Davis Yeah its amazing how long ago chainlink fence was first invented, I was amazed, over 170 years ago! This method is very easy, I'm positive you will be happy with the results.
Cheers,
Luke
I build plastic models, mainly aircraft. About 25 years ago, Monogram had just released a 1/48th scale F-84 and wanted to show it on the tarmac, but then decided to add a perimeter fence. Had a bunch of wedding veil left over from when sister got married a year earlier.....NEVER throw anything away around me. Used round, plastic tubing for fence posts, but never thought about measuring the distance between them, just eye balled it to where it looked right. Like you, used super glue to bond veil to posts. Added grass on both sides of fence. Thanks for the video because this and your other videos help those who haven't seen/thought of something like this before.
Cheers mate, this is an old technique but there's not a lot of info online about making chain link fences. It looks like you have a great technique, it's probably a little easier using plastic fence posts as opposed to soldering the wire?
Cheers
Luke
To straighten coiled wire, cut off a section, and secure one end in a vice or wrap around some needle-nose pliers. use a 2nd set of pliers to wrap and secure the other end. Pull one end until you feel the wire yield (stretch) slightly. Release the tension, and carefully release the wire. It will be perfectly straight. This method works great with soft metals.
This is different than what I made. 8 months into modeling now. I used my wifes hair nets stretched over a plastic hanger sprayed with metallic paint. Using fireplace match sticks made my fence! I like both. Thanks for sharing!
+Pastor Leonard Williams CAYA Sounds like a good idea, the hardest part I find is finding a material with small enough holes but not too small and not too large. Stretching a stocking would work quite well. That's something I'll definitely have to try.
Thanks for the tips
Cheers
Luke.
Revisiting an old video. You can straighten wire by chucking one end into a drill and secure the other end in a vice or a screw in a piece of wood, just so the other end is secured. Turn on the drill and go at it till it breaks of just before it breaks and the wire will be perfectly straight. I picked up my roll of tulle from the fabric store, $3.50 for a 6 yard roll with our local discount. Now I've got to get my 18 gauge wire. I think that using an airbrush would be preferable over rattle can paint. You can get a much finer spray from an airbrush. Cheers from eastern TN
I never knew I lived in the birth place of chain link fencing! Cheers for enlightening me.. I have something to brag about at last. Nice tutorial 👍
Very good. Learned about "glue tack"
+cokidjazz Yeah I use it all the time! I actually just posted my latest video on Patreon and I once again use blu-tack to help solder. The video will be up on RUclips this Saturday.
Cheers
Luke
Luke, I noticed you had coiled wire... here's a trick to straighten it: Cut the wire to a rough length, they put one end in a vise and pull (stretch) the wire with pliers! Works like a charm! Gets it nice and straight.
Tim W Thanks Tim, I'll definitely have to try that on the next set of fences I build, which will be very soon! I've also been looking for straight wire that has already been straightened. The hardware store sells it as tie wire....? I think?
Cheers for the tip
Luke.
Luke Towan
Hi Luke, Great videos, I like your style. Regarding the wire straightening - as Tim says use a vice and pliers. Hold one end of the wire in the vice, hold the wire tightly with the pliers and then, most importantly, allow the wire to go really slack and give a fast, sharp tug to straighten wire. Works a treat, I learned the tip when training as a silversmith and have never forgotten. By the way, solid core electrical copper wire works really well and a friendly electrician will provide lots of off-cuts (aka short ends) of suitable cable for the price of a beer. Happy modelling - I have subscribed as I love your vids,
Regards
Terry
Hi Luke,
Thanks for the great videos. Very informative and to the point.
An easy tip for straightening wire. Take about a 1 meter length of wire and clamp the one end in the chuck of your battery drill/screwdriver. Grab the other end with a pair of pliers (alternatively clamp it in your bench vice) and pull tight. Now slowly start to turn the drill while holding the wire tight. After a few turns the wire will be straight and it will hold its shape. H T H.
Happy modeling!
Johan de Villiers
Johan de Villiers another great tip! Thanks for the advice. That's another method I will definitely be trying.
Cheers, Luke.
You can straighten coiled wire by clamping an end in a bench-vice, taking the other end in some locking pliers and give it a tug. You will feel it stretch a bit, and then it will be arrow straight. it takes a little practice, but it's pretty easy.
Wow! Very impressive! Happy railroading!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks, glad you enjoyed it :)
Great idea and excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks for the great demonstration. I had a go at making the fence and the results where pleasing.
After several failed attempts to get the wire straight I ended up rolling the small pieces between to heavy bits of flat metal.
Thanks for the inspiration
Graeme Schulz that's a great idea for straightening the wire! I'm glad you had a go at making the fence, I did a recent video where I add barbed wire to a corrugated iron fence, I reckon it would look pretty good on the chain link fence!
Cheers, Luke.
excellent! going to store now to buy materials!!! Thanks for taking time to share!
+Kurt Umlauf No worries, good luck. I'm sure you'll be very happy with the results.
Cheers
Luke
Luke,
A trick I learned some 50 years ago to straighten curly wire.
Take a length of the wire, up to about a metre long, and clamp the end into a solid vice.
Grab the other end of the wire with a good pair of pliers.
Pull the wire taught, If need be put your foot against the vice, and give it a solid pull.
The wire may stretch a few millimetres, but after a little practice you should end up with a straight length of wire.
By the way, excellent videos, thank you.
Michael,
Tullarine.
Michael Causer hi Michael, thanks for the great tip. I'll definaitely give that a try on my next build. Cheers, Luke
Hi another great vid if you wind your wire in a drill with one end held tight it will do the trick
Thanks John, I'll be sure to use the drill method in future fence building sessions :)
Cheers
Luke
Really well done Luke. Well explained and the fence looks very realistic. A bigger wattage soldering iron would assist in soldering the larger gauge wire. Yes please keep the tutorials coming.
Richard Redcastle Thanks for the tip Richard, my soldering iron really struggled with that wire! I'll definitely do some more videos. Got some more home made scenery ideas that I think a lot of people will like.
just remarkable. thanks for the inspiration
no worries Peter, thanks for watching
The way you cut the fence at the top made the termination point look realistically twisted, nice work.
I nominate you for idea of the month!! great job chap!
Stonehenge ha ha thanks mate! glad you enjoyed the video!
Cheers
Luke.
Spacing the posts further is a good tip, thanks
nicely done. will be trying this out!
Gknos modeltrains cheers mate, glad I'm getting people interested, and it's pretty easy to make.
This was a very interesting video, something I needed to see. Now I have to try it.Thanks for sharing the knowledge with us.Keep them coming.
tony griffin Thanks Tony, I will most definitely be making more videos. I have plenty of ideas to share, some good and others probably not as good but still handy stuff to know. Thanks for the great comment :)
your videos are awesome,they have helped me so much,just wanted to let you know thank you.
thanks mate, I'm actually filming a redo of this exact video right now :)
Good evening Luke,
I noticed you had trouble with the 18g wire curling. You may like to try a trick i learnt about 50 years ago.
Clamp one end of the wire in a fairly solid bench vice and grab the other end with a solid pair of pliers. Put your foot against the vice if the bench is not firmly fixed and give the wire a short, sharp tug to stretch the wire a very small amount. At the same time, you should end up with a straight piece of wire.
Michael C, Melbourne.
Hi Michael, thanks for the tip 😊 I had a couple of others suggest similar methods of straightening the wire which I've since tried and I was surprised at how well it worked! It's a great tip and like you I'm sure I'll hold onto that advice for at least 50 years 😊 assuming I survive that long... Thanks again Michael
Cheers
Luke
This is a superb video well done on the way you designed and made and explain the parts and accessories you use Luke very nicely designed
Thanks mate, glad you liked it... I was considering re-filming this tutorial as I've come up with a few new ideas on adding details.
Cheers
Luke
Thanks for the great tutorial, Luke. You covered the details very clearly and understandably. It was a pleasure to watch, and it makes me want to find a spot for some chain link fence on my new layout.
Very neat. Thanks for sharing.
Wow! You're great!
It looks simple to do
Thanks from Italy
Cheers Eddie, glad you enjoyed the video 😮
Another outstanding video. Didn't know you could make chain link fence so cheaply but looks so realistic. Keep 'em comin' -- the videos, that is, mate.
Thanks again :)
That actually looks really good. I'll be using this most likely.
bwoogie No worries, it's easier than it looks! and looks pretty good!
Brilliant. So doing some of this on my layout. Cheers
davie maclean no worries Davie, thanks for the awesome comment! Cheers
Luke.
Great idea and great work. Will give this a try. Thanks for the video.
I bought cheap silicon baking sheets from the dollar store ( half as big again as an A4 sheet or thereabouts). Cost me about $3-4 and I glue and paint on that. None of my glues stick to it anyway and easy to clean hot glue and paint off it by throwing it in the washing machine or under the tap. I also cut one up into smallish squares and use it when clamping anything. Nothing sticks to it and it helps the clamps leave no marks. Love your work Luke, the attention to detail is spectacular and really makes the difference.
That is a fantastic idea! I wish I had thought of that earlier. I'm about to build a big batch of fence so I'll definitely be using your method.
Cheers
Luke
+Luke Towan u can also find them cheap on eBay, they usually various sizes. Some people call them Silicone Rolling mats FYI
Excellent! I have now tried and successfully emulated your methods on chain link fencing many times for my model rail road set in an industrial park with private rail company. The one modification I think you might like is that I now tend to make the vertical posts about 1 cm longer and bend them forward once they clear the top rail. This gives an opportunity to string a single strand of tulle (cut ridiculously carefully from the off cuts of the fence) along the top. Three of these strands end up a bit twisted and twirled within them selves so when the painting stage is reached and the tauten up sufficiently, the viciousness of the 'barbed' wire is just a little over scale but all the better for it. The layout is set in the 1970s so security became a bit more important than the most often modeled 1950s era.
Thank you again for the EXCELLENT tutorials...keep them coming.
Where can I get "Sclupamold" in Queensland?
+Franklin Anders Thanks mate for the great tip on modifying the fence, I could imagine that would look fantastic! The only place I've found Sculptamold at a reasonable price is "Adelaide Moulds and Castings Supplies", the can post and the price is reasonable. I think Riots art and craft sell it as well but very expensive.
Cheers
Luke.
very interesting. good information and techniques, going to give this a try someday
PennCentral99 thanks, it's definitely worth having a go.
What a great tip, I have a section on my layout that requires about 5 feet of chain linked fence , this tip will defiantly fit the bill.Thanks for sharing.Darick
+DClavalois No worries Darick, this will also save you a fair bit of money as well. Especially when you need so much.
Cheers
Luke
I will post the result on up coming video .Keep an eye out for it Luke.Merci Darick
Very, very cool ! My other method I used every word (BAD) in the book. LOL !
+Joel Hurst lol, don't worry when I first started I think I read the same book!!
Cheers
Luke
Great vid, its nice when someone takes the time to show step by step how to model items, such as this fence, keep up the good work
Beautiful looking fence and really nicely done video! I would suggest using a sheet of waxed paper taped down to the plywood for the step where you add the tulle to the fence frame. It will keep the superglue from cementing the fence to the board.
+Toni Ryan Thanks for the great tip Toni, that would make so much sense! Sometimes it takes a simple idea from someone else to make the biggest difference :) Thanks again
Cheers
Luke
Hey Luke. An old metal shop trick to straiten wire is to put one end in a vice and the other end in the chuck of your battery drill on low speed. twist the wire slowly and watch it straiten. It will also work harden the wire and make it much more likely to hold any shape you want to give it.
Thanks for the awesome tip Andrew
You're very welcome.
Keep making cool the stuff..
Good presentation!!
Thank you!
Duke Snyder Thanks Duke, I have just posted a similar video about making a fence, a corrugated iron fence. You might like it as well.
Cheers, Luke.
the blue tack tip is awesome
+John Ang I use blu tack for so many things... It's great stuff
Cheers
Luke
had to watch this again ... Although I bought the tule I also found some seethrough /transparent... gray/silver ribbon at the craft store I visited on that trip that may be more suited to N scale links as the holes are finer ... going to try your method for the posts and railing on the ribbon first but the tule looks great!
+D Price Cool, the silver ribbon for N scale sounds like a good idea, you'll have to let me know how you go. I've often looked around for N scale material but find it tough to find! Good luck, I'm confident it will work.
Cheers
Luke
Great info and I plan to try it soon I have some industry that will need fence and I hope an operational gate across the track. Thanks Newman
Babe! Your videos are so engaging especially for someone like me who has no interest in 'train modelling'. I watched the whole video and I thought the end bit about the Manikins' 'looking shifty' very funny! Well done!...Very impressive (I better get back to studying now - see you tomorrow handsome). Anna - impressed wife.
Anna Meresi Towan Thanks gorgeous ;)
Luke Towan Mate, your Anna is quite a gift!!
A wife's support is better than money. You're a lucky man!! :-D
Carmine Allocca I certainly am! I'm very thankful for her support and understanding.......... and most of all patience with me!
Top video thank you i will use it thanks
Phillip McCallum No worries, it's so simple to do and you will definitely be happy with the results. It looks better to the natural eye as opposed to seeing it on a video. Thanks for the great feedback. Cheers, Luke
Well explained, I thankyou for sharing.
+Darren Lee Thanks again Darren, it's very easy to make and look effective!
Cheers
Luke.
That was really great! Well done mate.
+jjab99 Thanks mate, glad you liked it.
Cheers
Luke.
+Luke Towan really impressive looking fence. Must try myself. Good job
Fantastic.!
+Peter CPRail8748 Thanks Peter :)
Absolutely fantastic :)
AWESOME
Another great video five star
Great video. This was really helpful.
+Steves Trains No worries mate, glad I was able to help.
Cheers
Luke
Great job on the chain link fence. I was going to buy window screen but I may buy the nylon instead.
Scott
Scott Downey yeah, fly screen wire is a little course and the gaps are pretty wide, the nylon tulle works pretty well.
Good luck with the fence build, cheers
Luke.
If you clamp one end of the your wire a vise and hold the other end with a pair of pliers and then snap the wire, this will straighten the wire quickly.
Great job.
arthurhouston3 Thanks Arthur, I have to say, I really enjoy watching you videos as well. Cheers, Luke.
Luke , I read further and found details about the wire!!!
Gregg.
+FishplateFilms lol, good work. I usually try to post all the info where I can, sometimes if the info isn't in the video I might include it in the description area. A little tip I learnt since posting this video is to have every third or forth upright post a little longer so it can be pressed into the layout or mounted in small holes, that way it's a little more secure and less likely to topple over.
Cheers
Luke
Great job.. thank you!
njRRtrainer Hey no worries. I have plenty more like this on the way.
So, the black weights go back that far :-)
Great tutorial, as always.
Great video very informative!
ScaleCarModels No worries, thanks for the feedback.
Cheers.
Luke.
Nice job, very useful on my next project, thanks!
picking up my nylon tomorrow then its starts lol... Amazing, again thanks for sharing Dude..
You've done it again Luke ma boy!! I may even try this, it may be just in my skill level..LOL
Was the wire copper and where did you get the super glue with the brush??
Very nice , professional tutorials mate, I know how much work goes into shooting scenes this well lit and composed!
Cheers Gregg.
Great Video
Brilliant, try putting the fence onto a piece if silicone cooking paper when sticking it together and it may not stick to the silicone.
Great tip !
Luke I like it!
This is awesome! I'm definitely going to try this out :) thanks for sharing
trainOholic cool, thanks for the great comment. You'll have to post a video update on your channel with some chain link fence :)
Luke Towan
i definitely will :)
Huzzah and thank you thank you.
+X.david Williams lol, no worries. Glad I could help.
Cheers
Luke.
Good tutorial. I should have used your method for the new fencing I just added. I bought a kit and it was expensive.
Rob McCrain Yeah, I found the same problem with cost. The good thing with kits is the quality, they are hard to beat for realism.
Hmm, would this work for 1:12 scale ? I think the Tulle holes might be too small, maybe window screen mesh? Hm
Yeah the tulle I'm using would be a little small but it should be easy to find tulle with lager holes at most fabric/craft stores?
Cheers
Luke
Thanks for sharing.
Sue Line RailRoad No worries mate,
Cheers
Luke
Great Work Luke!
Increible.
Amazing! Always amazing! Can you please do a video on your equipment that you use please?? You’re inspecting me to do model building hardcore!
Thank you so much
Thanks so much for posting this. Very professionally made tutorial, no waffle, very clearly shot. Have you considered using a single piece of wire for the horizontals? (Was it the rolled nature of your wire supply that made you go for cut sections?)
Browntau Thankyou for the comment, I did think about a single horizontal wire but I also wanted to have a small part of the vertical pole sticking out the top. But I guess it all depends on how you want to design your fence, a single horizontal wire could work wonders for a specific design. thanks for the idea and great comment.
Cheers,
Luke.
Hi Luke, enjoyed watching this project. I tried this using aluminum wire and it did not work. Were you using aluminum wire as well? Thanks for your help!
+Mike Burton I'm using galvanized steel, it's usually used for fencing I think? Some solders work better depending on the type of wire so if you have a bunch of wire already it might be worth trying a different solder?
Cheers
Luke
+Luke Towan Thanks I will pick up some steel wire and give that a go!! Take care.
the best
Thank you :)
is the solder the same kind for electrical soldering?
So Luke,
Finaly a moment to say that I appreciate your tutorials how-to.
I found this one about fences for make my own one.
Now trying to find the right tule.
Whats your latest tutorial on RUclips and have made progress whit projects?
Grtz from Koen Frijlink, Holland.
+Koenie1972 I hope you can fine the tulle you need, I'm about to post a video about making Hay Bales on Sunday. Hope you like that one as well.
Cheers
Luke
+Luke Towan
Hi, Luke
You can find a testresult on my topic on Beneluxspoorforum.nl, name : NS264 Midland industrial modelrailways (modelspoor) NS IV (Dutch Railways)
But I didn't find the right tulle yet but it's a try-out.
Cheers. Koen.
if you don't have a sauntering gun is there a way of making everything stick together in another way...
The best way to solder the wire would be to tin the parts first then jig it up like you did and then reapply the heat to the pretinned parts. Less solder to worry about cleaning up at the joints.
What is the length of these fence posts? I notice in the other fence video they are at 3.7cm.
Can you use nylon window screen for the chain ink fence
For those who have access to this kind of supplier ... you can purchase straight wire in many gauges from Taxidermy suppliers! ;)
+John Bellucci Wire used for artificial floral arrangements is strait as well.
Top tip Luke! I need to find the equivalent to that blue sticky putty here in the Colonies. Brilliant stuff!!
Also need to find that nylon mesh is called here, and where to get it...
That looks far better than the overpriced, crap looking, ready made fencing.
Carmine Allocca Thanks again mate, I guess you could use playdoh or clay, but I guess it would eventually harden.... and very quick in summer!? I'm sure you'll find the equivalent, I think I've heard people call it poster tack or something like that?
Cheers
Luke.
Luke Towan THANK you! Poster tack gives me something to look for at the Craft Store. :-)
Carmine 3M has something like blue tack. That's what i use.
Southeast Rails Thanks! I got an idea where to find it now.
I like the logo in this one and how you have animated it from a drawing! Will you use it again?
Anna Meresi Towan Yeah me too, I think I'll start using that logo again. It's nice and simple but looks interesting.
@@BoulderCreekRailroad how did you make it luke?
Hi luke i nedd some help!!!!! i am a begginer and iwant to build this AWESOME fence and i would like to know what kind of wir did you use: aluminum, brass, tin, copper etc/ please answer quick
Your best option will be to use brass, it's much easier to solder and available in many sizes at most hobby shops.
Cheers
Luke
Luke ya the boy
Excellent tutorial Luke! The use of that nylon tulle is a brilliant idea and gives a very realistic finish. Love the quality of your videos and editing and was wondering what editor you use but also understand if you prefer to not say, but really appreciate how professional they are :) - Sim
Hi Sim, thanks for the positive feedback, I really appreciate it. I put alot of effort into the presentation of my videos so its good to see some people like it :) I use a combination of programs to put the videos together, I use Adobe Photo Shop for some of the stills and the video thumbnail, I use Adobe After Effects to add detail to the video like the title intro and other special effects, color correction, lower third titles, green screen to name a few, and finally I piece it all together using Adobe Premiere Pro, which enables me to easily cut and move pieces of footage around to create the final video.
Cheers Luke
Luke Towan Thanks for the info Luke, it is much appreciated. I am fairly familiar with using Adobe Photoshop but never used After Effects or Premier Pro, will have to see about taking a look at them, thanks. Meanwhile, I look forward to seeing more of your excellent use of them :) - Sim
Hello. I'm wanting to build a 1/24 scale diorama for my 1/24 scale diecast model cars and I would like a realistic looking chain link fence to go along with it. How do I go about doing that?
in 1/24 scale 1/2 inch is 1 foot in real life.. so a 3 foot post would be 1 1/2 inches... does that help. I build dollhouses and roomboxes in 1/12 or 1/24 scale and I take the real life size and convert it down.
Really nicely done. Do you model in N scale at all?
+Elaine Hays I did have an N scale British layout but have mostly been working in HO scale. I'll probably go back to N scale at some stage but at the moment I pretty busy with the HO scale stuff.
Cheers
Luke.
Where did you buy a wire at can you get at Walmart or Lowe’s hardware
Please make a tutorial of how to make catch fences from NASCAR race tracks!
Love this. Would this work on 00 gauge?
yeah it would work for sure! HO is very close to OO.
Cheers
Luke
great i shall give it a try. love your uploads, i look out for them everyday.
Could we also use a flame liter instead of solder?
*lighter
Yeah, you'd just need the right type of solder when using the flame torch method. Not all solders work using a flame.
Thanks Luke. What nylon would you use for N scale then??
+Colin Mansell That's a tough question to answer, I'm not sure if there are different grades of nylon tulle? I basically just went down to the local craft store and slowly picked through what they had until I found something usable. I guess you could try the same and see if there is a fine enough material that would do the job? Some ribbons have a fine mesh like texture so it might be worth looking at ribbons as well.
Hope that gets you on the right track.
Cheers
Luke
Thanks Luke, I will have a look and see what I can find.
Would this method work at all for N-scale?
yeah it would work, you'd probably just need to find a nylon tulle that was a little finer with smaller holes. Most fabric store have a selection of tulle with different grades.
Love this
***** Thanks mate :-)
How tall would it be if it was in N scale? Thanks Luke
It depends a little but an 8ft fence would be about 1.5cm in N scale.
Cheers
Luke
Thank you
Well so far I've tried Stainless Steel Wire from K&D (s?).....It would not take to soldering. After researching the subject of soldering stainless I've found that one needs to use an acidic flux like Kester 817 and a solder with a high silver content so I scrapped that idea and went out and bought 18 ga solid aluminum wire. That didn't work either. Like Stainless the oxides that form on the surface prevent solder from sticking. So I looked at the video again more closely and noted that you used galvanized steel wire. Who is the manufacturer and where can I get it? Are there better metals to solder to? Copper for instance, as long as you will be painting the assembly does the color matter. Your input is most welcome.
I didn't think the type of wire made that much difference! It's quite interesting hearing about your experiences however I can certainly say brass wire or copper wire would definitely work, I've seen many modellers use brass and it takes solder quite well and copper would be very similar. Good luck with finding the best material, I'd be very interested to find out what works best for you.
Cheers
Luke.
+Luke Towan Thanks for the reply Luke. I've been looking at a number of your videos and have to say they are quite impressive. I too like a lot of attention to scenic detailing. At some point I would like to send you some pictures of a layout I have been detailing for the past 30 years. Did you mention a brand of wire you are using and where you can get it from. From you accent I suppose you are from the land down under and I live in the Northeast United states. As an aside there is an annual convention of master craftsman model builders. Here is the site: modelrailroadexpo.com/. It is occurring on the end of March and beginning of April. Check it out!!! I have Friends in Brisbane...
+Luke Towan I am now a veritable 18ga wire store. I have 110' of galvanized steel, 25' of copper, 50' of aluminum and around 3' of stainless ....(and a partridge in a pear tree). Completely exhausting ....
Turns out the galvanized and copper solder just fine!!!!
Off to making chain link fence!!!!!
Oh wow, it sounds like you've been busy. I used to live in Brisbane but have since moved to Adelaide. I wish I could make it to the expo! I'll have to start saving and try to make it to the 2017 expo, I work for Qantas and can get cheap tickets on staff travel but it can still be quit expensive. Have fun building the fence, the only thing I'd do different is make a few of the verticle posts longer so you can push them into the scenery base, that way they are held in place more securely.
Cheers
Luke