Also good to note: When there is metal bracing in a wall, make sure your studs all bow one way, and you brace the side which isn't bowed, so you only have to pack-out the one side which is braced. This avoids many headaches!
mate, all of your videos are so helpful and on good topics with no mucking around! no idea how you dont have more subs. thanks for all the time youve put in to making these
Hi Matt, thanks for you comment, interestly only about 10% of the traffic on the channel is from subscribers so im not real sure if it matters that much.
Very nice and precise explanation, even put up the specs on screen which helps since I’m a visual learner. Subscribed as I see you have other videos like this.
Hey your videos they are very helpful! !! Can you tell me how to straighten stairwells and external double storey timber walls for blueboard and rendering? Any tips be very appreciated!! Thanks
Hello and thank you. With staggered noggins how do you attach gyprock horizontally? if you're using 2400 sheets horizontal and have the noggins above and below a 2400 high line none of the screws will hit. Thank you.
Hi Uri, The plasterboard is nailed to the studs, not the noggins. plasterboard only needs to be fixed, generally at 600mm centres, so fixing to the studs is all that is required. hope this helps
Hi Mate, once you have straightened the top and bottom the straight edge will let you know what is happening in the middle. You can do it but it tends to get in the way when you are packing and planning the studs.
I have problem when I straight the walls on door openings ,i do the walls like you do ( ends first ,top and bottom after) but in door openings some of the jamb studs are now ,so I pack them but end 95mm or 100mm in some cases,and if is square set door jambs they end up 5mm to 8mm different revels Any ideas?
Hi James As long as your straight edge is long enough to do the height of the wall you can just use the string line method to straighten the top and bottom plates. Hope this helps
Bit late to the party here, but I agree with the previous comment. Isn't it just easier to replace the stud? Especially if you're having to remove the noggins already? Regardless, I appreciate you sharing this information with us.
Hi Robert, Yes in this day in age it may be easier and quicker to switch out the stud. Remember this technique has been around since a time when Labour was cheap and the materials were expensive, nowadays that has almost reversed with the labour being a major contributor to the cost of a job.
We need more like you to share valuable and informative practical skills with others. Really appreciate your efforts and ongoing support.
Hi James, thanks for your comment.
Thanks, mate. Very informative and explained. Cheers.
Thanks for taking the time to share this info ,very much appreciated ,great work.
Hi Peter,
thanks for your comment, I'm glad you llike the videos
Also good to note: When there is metal bracing in a wall, make sure your studs all bow one way, and you brace the side which isn't bowed, so you only have to pack-out the one side which is braced. This avoids many headaches!
Nickanoms Thanks Nickanoms great tip
Nice mate agreed!
Bravo buildsum
mate, all of your videos are so helpful and on good topics with no mucking around! no idea how you dont have more subs.
thanks for all the time youve put in to making these
Hi Matt, thanks for you comment, interestly only about 10% of the traffic on the channel is from subscribers so im not real sure if it matters that much.
Groovy tips! Thanks!
Brilliant clear and concise video and explanations thank you so much
Thanks, Nik, glad you like it.
No worries Andrew, thanks for the feedback.
Very nice and precise explanation, even put up the specs on screen which helps since I’m a visual learner. Subscribed as I see you have other videos like this.
Hi Mate,Thanks for the sub! I'm glad you like the video.
Nice trick the cut and wedging the stud, I like it. Never been taught that before
Thanks. Steven, Glad you like it.
Excellent thanks.
Hey your videos they are very helpful! !! Can you tell me how to straighten stairwells and external double storey timber walls for blueboard and rendering? Any tips be very appreciated!! Thanks
Hi there! really appreciate you vids. It extremely helps as I am doing certIV in Building. Pleas let me know what software are you using. Cheers!
good job mate
Hi +Jafari S Thanks for the feedback. I use Google SketchUp to do the drawing
great details! thank you so much! what program you are using here?
Hi Pat, thanks for your comment, I use SketchUp for all my drawings.
amazing Sketchup work or what ever CAD you are using
Thanks Tim, Yeah it is SketchUp
Awesome
Good day mate ....would you mind telling me what software did you use in this video ? coz it was really nice
Hi Alan
I use Google SketchUp for all my drawings
nice....i'll check on that mate...i'm using Revit 2016...good day !
Hello and thank you. With staggered noggins how do you attach gyprock horizontally? if you're using 2400 sheets horizontal and have the noggins above and below a 2400 high line none of the screws will hit. Thank you.
Hi Uri, The plasterboard is nailed to the studs, not the noggins. plasterboard only needs to be fixed, generally at 600mm centres, so fixing to the studs is all that is required.
hope this helps
Buildsum thanks so much. Duh! :). You helped me build a shed last year (no gyprock) and it turned out perfect. Now it’s time for an interior wall...
Hey mate, what app/program are you using to show the actual design of things?
Hi Mate, I use SketchUp for all of my drawings
do you need to check the middle of the wall with the stringline?
Hi Mate, once you have straightened the top and bottom the straight edge will let you know what is happening in the middle. You can do it but it tends to get in the way when you are packing and planning the studs.
I have problem when I straight the walls on door openings ,i do the walls like you do ( ends first ,top and bottom after) but in door openings some of the jamb studs are now ,so I pack them but end 95mm or 100mm in some cases,and if is square set door jambs they end up 5mm to 8mm different revels
Any ideas?
Hi Mate, if you are packing a door stud you would have to plane the opposite side to stop this from happening.
@@Buildsum no worries
Thanks
Can you cripple external walls ?
Hi Jack, they cant be load bearing so that counts external studs out in most cases.
What if your straight edge isn't long enough to get across the whole wall?
Hi James
As long as your straight edge is long enough to do the height of the wall you can just use the string line method to straighten the top and bottom plates.
Hope this helps
he explained that mate - use the string and block
Nice taa
Thanks, Sam, Glad you like it.
Bit late to the party here, but I agree with the previous comment. Isn't it just easier to replace the stud? Especially if you're having to remove the noggins already?
Regardless, I appreciate you sharing this information with us.
Hi Robert, Yes in this day in age it may be easier and quicker to switch out the stud. Remember this technique has been around since a time when Labour was cheap and the materials were expensive, nowadays that has almost reversed with the labour being a major contributor to the cost of a job.
@@Buildsum thanks for taking the time to reply, appreciate it. Regardless, it's a neat trick to keep in mind.
Just replace the stud with a straight one