Really love these shots and great concept!!! It's reassuring to see the results because I was worried to shoot this film thinking I'd have had to get ECN2 chemistry to develop it. Some of the internet forums almost explicitly warn you against using C41 to develop this but I'm glad you have settled that debate :-)
Nice! Yeah I don't like dogmatic or elitist thoughts when it comes to things like this. Sure it's subjectively better in the intended process, but part of the fun of why I at least shoot film is the experimention, versatility, and imperfect character! Additionally, ECN2 isn't always accessible easily or cheaply to everyone, and something like this can be more affordable than shooting Cinestill 😅
Love how short and sweet this video was and it got me hyped to use more cine film. I would loooove to maybe have all my color Street photos with cine film, obviously being a movie geek, I love that look. Also, I love how you prepped and storyboarded the scene, puts a smile on my face when people are well prepared and not "winging" things the majority of the time.
Thanks man! Yeah it has such a unique look, you should try some 250D on the street. I think ECN2 kits are a lot cheaper to get in your neck of the woods too! Haha yeah pre-visualising is such a fun and relevant part of the photography experience right 😁
Love the composition, love the grain. I am a big fan of Vision3. I'll be getting some Fuji Eterna 500T soon as well so looking forward to trying that............finally, love this channel!
You got some nice shots in! I personally enjoy the grain, the colors look amazing and very sharp. I've heard 500T is kinda blueish and I was scared, but your pictures look really nice and balanced. Do you recommend any tutorials for homemade anti halo layer remover? And can you still use your c41 chemicals for developing regular color film or do they get contaminated in any way? Thank you!
Thank you! The film being tungsten balanced can surely look blueish, especially when using in daylight or anything cooler than 3200K lighting. But, this is very easy to counteract when scanning them, if you (or the lab scanner operator) compensate for it! As for the pre-rinse, I use a simple bicarbonate soda pre-soak/rinse... a few times until the water runs clear. I learnt from a video by Eduardo Pavez here on RUclips, who made a whole video showing his method!
@@pushingfilm Thank you for replying! Would you mind linking the video? I saw tutorials that use baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and some use some other stuff. If you think just baking soda would be fine I'll dive right into it haha!
I shot a whole roll of vision3 500t on a canon autoboy3 at night time, going to send it to the developer soon but do you recommend that i tell the developer to push it 1 stop or 2 stop...?
Whats your way to get off the Remjet? I also developed a lot of rolls 500T in C41 with similar results. 1 Stop overexposed seems to work pretty well to keep the grain to a decent level. Hence I struggle very time to get off the Remjet and have to remains on the negative that show up in the scans. I use some washing soda and fibre cloth in the end to remove it. What is your process?
I use Sodium bicarbonate, and followed a similar method to Eduardo Pavez' guide here on RUclips. Make sure the pre-rinse is at working temperature after mixing in the soda, and rinse/agitate it a few times until the water is clear. Let it sit in the pr-rinse for a minute before one of the rinses. I also watched a guide by Michael over at FPP which made it look super easy! And yes, I'll definitely be exposing the whole roll at around 250iso next time :-)
I think the important thing is when we need to remove the Remjet, my process is Re-soak the film with warm mixture of Baking Soda + Borax (sometime I use bathroom bleach concentrate), this step I bath the film for 3-3.5 mins then dump out the mixture and re-fill the tank with warm water and shake it quickly 2-3 secs then dump it out with 70-80% of remjet (remjet layer on Kodak film is easier to remove than Fuji film) then refill water and dump out it out until clear and process with C41 as normal. However, I take out the film and wash with thumbs before bath it in Stabilizer. I washed the film after Stabilise it and the result is there were a little bit of Remjet remain and has been harden later on. you should try this method
@@NguyenTran-ew4vo nice, that's pretty much what I do, but without the borax. Same order also for rinse and rubbing off the final remjet before stabilising. I also add a dunk in distilled water + photoflo at the very end before hanging.
It could be expiry or age of the film, or accidental/unintended underexposure. Its good to use careful metering or a handheld incident meter when shooting in low/artificial light situations (in-camera meters tend to underexpose when dealing with that). Also, 500T suggests compensation when shooting under artificial lights. All in all, you have to be more careful when pushing it.
@@pushingfilm It was weird because i shot Vision 500T @1600 [1.5 stop push] before and the results were 10 times better. Even shot under fluorescent where its in theory only 160 iso and it was ok. 1) Film was fresh 2) I used phone lightmeter app Cinestill is just 500T underexposed so idk how people get good results
I've heard something about the chemistry getting contaminated with the remjet if not removed properly. Would you worry about that and have your normal c41 film processed in a different batch? I mean specially if you are using a process like flexicolor that you are not going to toss at the end
I heard that a while ago but did some testing and experimentation and never had an issue when thoroughly removing most the remjet first. I once processed maybe 12-16 rolls of 250D with a single 1L batch of C41, over the period of a few months with no issues.
How do you like it compared to the other Kodak films like Gold, Colorplus, or Ultramax? I found a pretty good deal online for pretty much dirt cheap. Just wondering if it's actually worth it Haha
It's really nice! but only worth it if you're happy to deal with the extra steps of developing cinema film at home, or having a specialised lab do it for you.
I know!! Right? It’s like both film are Kodak Vision 3 5219!! And that CineStill is just getting a mater roll before they add the rem-jet. Crazy right.
It's so easy and cheap to make ECN-2 developer, I make Kodak's official developer for £0.58 per litre from scratch. Just develop it properly, it costs nothing..
Oh man I looked into it a few times, I couldnt find anywhere that would ship it to Australia for a half decent price. A lot of the time it was either prohibited to ship, or it was just a small kit with shipping that cost more than the kit itself. Are you based here too?
I even tried to find CD-3 and other components... and same issue as previous. If you have any good leads that ship here, let me know. Trust me if it cost "nothing", I would have tried it a long time ago by now 😅
@@pushingfilm oh, you can't ship CD3 from China to Australia? I'm in the UK, I buy all my raw photochemicals from Germany to mix up myself. I make my own C41 chemicals for my lab after many many months of testing - costs me in total £7.67 for the dev, ammonium ferric EDTA bleach and fixer for litre batches. I'm, with two other photochemists, are actually working on making a BnW tablet developer. Mine is to be non toxic as I did have Australia and New Zealand in mind as I know shipping is high there. Making Mk 2 this weekend 😁
@@pushingfilm try my supplier - Fototechnik Suvatlar in Germany, use my name as a reference to buy as a private individual. Otherwise my reference was Rudiger Hartung
Vision3 500T 5219 is one of mt most favourite films, it just looks awesome.
I actually liked the portrait in the end, regardless of having huge amounts of red. I get candid vibes from that.
Thanks!
agreed
Cinematic is an understatement.
Really love these shots and great concept!!! It's reassuring to see the results because I was worried to shoot this film thinking I'd have had to get ECN2 chemistry to develop it. Some of the internet forums almost explicitly warn you against using C41 to develop this but I'm glad you have settled that debate :-)
Nice! Yeah I don't like dogmatic or elitist thoughts when it comes to things like this. Sure it's subjectively better in the intended process, but part of the fun of why I at least shoot film is the experimention, versatility, and imperfect character! Additionally, ECN2 isn't always accessible easily or cheaply to everyone, and something like this can be more affordable than shooting Cinestill 😅
@@pushingfilm Oh absolutely, couldn't agree more.. Affordability is at the forefront of my decision making process haha
@@pushingfilm ECN-2 is incredibly cheap. It costs £0.58 per litre to make yourself and requires like 4 ingredients plus water
@@jameslane3846 where can i found the formula for ECN-2 to make of my own?
@@revistapatea1832 it's been published by Kodak, Google Kodak ECN-2 developer formula
Some cool shots in here for sure. I am going to start developing my own film too and I'm really looking forward to it.
Very good shots!
Thank you very much!
Love how short and sweet this video was and it got me hyped to use more cine film. I would loooove to maybe have all my color Street photos with cine film, obviously being a movie geek, I love that look. Also, I love how you prepped and storyboarded the scene, puts a smile on my face when people are well prepared and not "winging" things the majority of the time.
Thanks man! Yeah it has such a unique look, you should try some 250D on the street. I think ECN2 kits are a lot cheaper to get in your neck of the woods too! Haha yeah pre-visualising is such a fun and relevant part of the photography experience right 😁
Great shots. Gotta agree I like the "correct" look better.
Love the composition, love the grain. I am a big fan of Vision3. I'll be getting some Fuji Eterna 500T soon as well so looking forward to trying that............finally, love this channel!
Thanks very much! Eterna 500T looks great as well 🙂
You got some nice shots in! I personally enjoy the grain, the colors look amazing and very sharp. I've heard 500T is kinda blueish and I was scared, but your pictures look really nice and balanced. Do you recommend any tutorials for homemade anti halo layer remover? And can you still use your c41 chemicals for developing regular color film or do they get contaminated in any way? Thank you!
I also would like to know this!
Thank you! The film being tungsten balanced can surely look blueish, especially when using in daylight or anything cooler than 3200K lighting. But, this is very easy to counteract when scanning them, if you (or the lab scanner operator) compensate for it! As for the pre-rinse, I use a simple bicarbonate soda pre-soak/rinse... a few times until the water runs clear. I learnt from a video by Eduardo Pavez here on RUclips, who made a whole video showing his method!
@@pushingfilm Thank you for replying! Would you mind linking the video? I saw tutorials that use baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and some use some other stuff. If you think just baking soda would be fine I'll dive right into it haha!
Some great shots
What iso did you use on your camera? And external light meter is applicable ?
Quick question - can you elaborate on/provide the recipe for the bicarb soda pre-bath for the Remjet removal step? Thanks!
Those definitely look great. I need to give C41 another try with Vision 3, because my last attempt was a bit iffy.
Thanks! Hope you get better results... I think I'll shoot the whole roll at 250 next time
@@pushingfilm Thank you! I usually shoot around 160, but I haven't done a straight comparison between 125, 160, and 250. hmm.
I shot a whole roll of vision3 500t on a canon autoboy3 at night time, going to send it to the developer soon but do you recommend that i tell the developer to push it 1 stop or 2 stop...?
Hashem: Very nice storytelling and pictures! I wonder how the results of this shoot would look just using Portra 400 for example?
Thanks Daniel! Yeah that would have been interesting to see 🙂
Whats your way to get off the Remjet? I also developed a lot of rolls 500T in C41 with similar results. 1 Stop overexposed seems to work pretty well to keep the grain to a decent level. Hence I struggle very time to get off the Remjet and have to remains on the negative that show up in the scans. I use some washing soda and fibre cloth in the end to remove it. What is your process?
I use Sodium bicarbonate, and followed a similar method to Eduardo Pavez' guide here on RUclips. Make sure the pre-rinse is at working temperature after mixing in the soda, and rinse/agitate it a few times until the water is clear. Let it sit in the pr-rinse for a minute before one of the rinses. I also watched a guide by Michael over at FPP which made it look super easy! And yes, I'll definitely be exposing the whole roll at around 250iso next time :-)
I think the important thing is when we need to remove the Remjet, my process is Re-soak the film with warm mixture of Baking Soda + Borax (sometime I use bathroom bleach concentrate), this step I bath the film for 3-3.5 mins then dump out the mixture and re-fill the tank with warm water and shake it quickly 2-3 secs then dump it out with 70-80% of remjet (remjet layer on Kodak film is easier to remove than Fuji film) then refill water and dump out it out until clear and process with C41 as normal. However, I take out the film and wash with thumbs before bath it in Stabilizer. I washed the film after Stabilise it and the result is there were a little bit of Remjet remain and has been harden later on. you should try this method
@@NguyenTran-ew4vo nice, that's pretty much what I do, but without the borax. Same order also for rinse and rubbing off the final remjet before stabilising. I also add a dunk in distilled water + photoflo at the very end before hanging.
I shot local brand 500T with remjet removed. I used iso 800. The results were very underexposed. I thought that it can handle 1 stop underexposure?
It could be expiry or age of the film, or accidental/unintended underexposure. Its good to use careful metering or a handheld incident meter when shooting in low/artificial light situations (in-camera meters tend to underexpose when dealing with that). Also, 500T suggests compensation when shooting under artificial lights. All in all, you have to be more careful when pushing it.
@@pushingfilm It was weird because i shot Vision 500T @1600 [1.5 stop push] before and the results were 10 times better. Even shot under fluorescent where its in theory only 160 iso and it was ok.
1) Film was fresh
2) I used phone lightmeter app
Cinestill is just 500T underexposed so idk how people get good results
Nice pics. Not a bad option to cross process but I def prefer the “real” way
I've heard something about the chemistry getting contaminated with the remjet if not removed properly. Would you worry about that and have your normal c41 film processed in a different batch? I mean specially if you are using a process like flexicolor that you are not going to toss at the end
I heard that a while ago but did some testing and experimentation and never had an issue when thoroughly removing most the remjet first. I once processed maybe 12-16 rolls of 250D with a single 1L batch of C41, over the period of a few months with no issues.
PLEASE LET MI KNOW THE TIMES OF EVERY STEP AND THE TEMPERATURE YOU USE TO DEVELOP THE RESULTS ARE BEAUTIFULL -- BEST REGARDS FROM ARGENTINA
Hi, I just used the standard C41 times for the Unicolor Kit; 39C/102F @ 3.5min dev, 6.5min Blix, 30 sec stabiliser.
Hey, can i ask which iso you set for kodak vision 500t?
400-500 from memory, but 100-200 might have been better
@@pushingfilm thanks a lot ❤️ keep up the good work
How do you like it compared to the other Kodak films like Gold, Colorplus, or Ultramax? I found a pretty good deal online for pretty much dirt cheap.
Just wondering if it's actually worth it Haha
It's really nice! but only worth it if you're happy to deal with the extra steps of developing cinema film at home, or having a specialised lab do it for you.
Nice one dude!
Thanks Mr Chigyver!
Spoiler! It looks like CineStill with less halation.
Of course it does :-)
Spoiler! Cinestill is from this film stock, so in another word can say that Cinestill has same look but more halation
I know!! Right? It’s like both film are Kodak Vision 3 5219!! And that CineStill is just getting a mater roll before they add the rem-jet. Crazy right.
This is not Kodak Vision, it's Vision3.
This is not a reply, it's a response 🙂
@@pushingfilm Kodak Vision is a different stock to Vision3. Vision was a series of stocks between 1996-2002, then it was Vision2, and now Vision3.
@@pushingfilm More specially, Kodak Vision 500T is 5279, you're shooting 5219.
It's so easy and cheap to make ECN-2 developer, I make Kodak's official developer for £0.58 per litre from scratch. Just develop it properly, it costs nothing..
Oh man I looked into it a few times, I couldnt find anywhere that would ship it to Australia for a half decent price. A lot of the time it was either prohibited to ship, or it was just a small kit with shipping that cost more than the kit itself. Are you based here too?
I even tried to find CD-3 and other components... and same issue as previous. If you have any good leads that ship here, let me know. Trust me if it cost "nothing", I would have tried it a long time ago by now 😅
@@pushingfilm oh, you can't ship CD3 from China to Australia?
I'm in the UK, I buy all my raw photochemicals from Germany to mix up myself. I make my own C41 chemicals for my lab after many many months of testing - costs me in total £7.67 for the dev, ammonium ferric EDTA bleach and fixer for litre batches.
I'm, with two other photochemists, are actually working on making a BnW tablet developer. Mine is to be non toxic as I did have Australia and New Zealand in mind as I know shipping is high there. Making Mk 2 this weekend 😁
@@pushingfilm try my supplier - Fototechnik Suvatlar in Germany, use my name as a reference to buy as a private individual. Otherwise my reference was Rudiger Hartung