IFSC Climbing World Championships - Innsbruck 2018 - Combined - Finals - Women
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- USA Viewers: watch the full replay of the women's Combined final at #IFSCwch Innsbruck 2018 at OlympicChannel.com: www.olympiccha...
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The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
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The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!
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Miho Nonaka is such a delight to watch! the cutest imo
Sol sa's smile as bright as a sun 😊
all the sport/boulder folks on the speed wall are just like "lol wut"
Janja Garnbret ❤ obsessed with her dynamic movement on boulder
Those false starts didnt seem at all false starts. I watched it a few times, both Miho and Akio left when the sounder rang.
Yes, they clearly did. But IFSC f***ed up their rules and implemented an additional 1/10th of a second delay rule (see my post above)
If they have their sensors why dont they just start the timer when they leave the floor? This way you get the most accurate climb instead of making up stupid rules
@@AlexandrwVictor so true, just like in alpine skiing, the time starts when the skier starts, it would give so many false starts and unfair results otherwise
Janja read nr 4 sooooo well, everyone else struggled with the left foot but she locked it down before even having that issue
Bravo Janja
This is not Ok. Olimpic standard is clearly thought out by an outdated and disconnected committee. This format is dangerous for the athletes, and inconsiderate of the sport. And for IFSC to go along with is is just as low.
The combined format has its flaws, but the format itself isn't that dangerous. It's the fact that the event held qualifications, semi-finals, finals along with each discipline in such a short amount of time. People were so beat up from climbing so much. The quality of climbing was clearly deteriorating towards the end. The olympic format doesn't help when it starts to "force" climbers into a whole new discipline they never practice. Very few people trained for all three disciplines before the Olympic format was introduced. This event schedule was just a bit too brutal on the climbers.
Моё мнение может показаться кому-то чересчур радикальным, но я считаю, что дисциплина "скорость" - это не скалолазание, а паркур со страховкой. Дисциплина же "сложность" - это недо-альпинизм на пластике. Чистым скалолазанием является только боулдеринг! А если организаторы соревнований хотят добавить зрелищности, то пускай объединят сложность со скоростью примерно, как это делают в Арко для истинных мастеров современного спортивного скалолазания. Такой формат, мне кажется, и в Олимпиаду бы органичней вписался.
Очень согласен! "Трудность" и Боулдеринг имеют смысл быть в одном типе. Посмотри как начался боулдеринг поймешь почему именно так. Скорость же это просто бессмысленный абсурд который ничего общего к скалолазанию не имеет и не передает навыки от одного к другому. Альпинизм в основном к скалолазанию тоже не близок. Иногда может встреться отвес но в основном это прогулки по наклонной плоскости в экстремальных температурах в разреженном воздухе.
точно также можно сказать, что болдеринг это паркур на стене.... или болдер - это недоскалолазание и т.п. ярлыков любых можно навешать.
но формат кажется бредовым....
Можно было бы поспорить - но не стану ;). Я ж говорю: мои оценки слегка слишком категоричны и эмоциональны. А вообще я люблю всё скалолазание в целом, даже "скоростников" :)))). Но, строго говоря, на мой взгляд, истинное скалолазание - это красноярский столбизм. Всё остальное - вариации на тему.
И ещё я жутко рад за Яню. Предсказывал её большое будущее ещё 2 года назад. А в 2020-м на Олимпиаде буду болеть только за неё. Она - гений :)!
. janja😍
I was really hoping for this combined Olympic format to work well, but it really has been shown up to be a total farce here unfortunately.
Speed climbing has evolved into a separate specialised discipline, it’s more a kin to parkour/ free running than lead or bouldering. I understand the thinking 💭, they had to include a non climber entertainment friendly event, but a lot of the issues with misunderstanding non climbers had has been the lack of multiple camera angles not showing the complexity or difficulties of what the climbers where attempting, sort the filming positions and angles correctly and there wouldn’t have been the need to include speed climbing (we climbers would also appreciate proper filming of these events to).
I'm curious if Jessica 1st on lead then will make her also 12 points, equals to Sol Sa, then who is the second?
Will you post the whole Men's and Women's bouldering final?
Where are you? I tried to find it on the Olympic website but didn't have any luck. If you have a VPN, I know that both the women's and men's bouldering finals are available with a London IP address. If you can use a VPN to make it seem as if you're in London to RUclips, those videos will just appear in the IFSC feed.
Its posted on the olympic channel and is accessible with no login, but I don't think they will post them on RUclips
www.olympicchannel.com/en/video/detail/boulder-women-final-ifsc-world-championships-innsbruck/
How do you qualify for the combined finals?
Top 6 people overall who climbed in all three disciplines for the individual competitions
I would freak out if I'd be climbing/bouldering with some guy yelling at me with tasteless music and people clapping hands symultaniously... these events are just over the top...
but still the climbers manage to do a great job. gZ
2:07:15 next time take with u 60 inc TV, btw bravo Janja.
Would like to know the title of the music played at 3:16:31 . Thanks.
That step at 3:05:27 :D
The phaser on the background sounds is stressing me out.
So much shoulder injuries...
Also, remove this speed climbing nonsense.
Speed climbing looks like a joke. Let them do single runs instead of forcing a head to head and just compare their times for a fairer test of skill.
Speed climbing is such a shit show.
Having just one try makes it all about luck. Speed climbing has nothing in common with the other two disciplines.
Funeral music. 🤣 I am going to miss his commentary.
This speed climbing part ... so unnecessary. The athletes got tired, it was over in a heart beat and very close to dumb luck. Also the mc is really annoying.
Love the olympic format !!
Janja marry me??
Speed climbing is just wast of time... I don't enjoy watching it and I don't see any point of adding this to the Olympic. Stupid, luck based, and has nothing to do with climbing at all.
That "spectator friendliness" is ruining the sport - Speed is crap AND a lot of luck, Parkour-bouldering is boring dialling-in of complex moves - it's just not interesting anymore. Remember the times when we watched athletes fighting up the walls, giving it all in the last try beyond the time limit? Olympia seems only to lead to "more idiots commin"..
I don’t why they have this speed climbing, it’s so boring and meaningless, that’s why Adam Ondra doesn’t like speed climbing training, really sucks
I hate that speed climbing is required for the Olympics. To me it seems they only put it in so that fast twitch phenotypes (like middle easterners or Africans) can have a chance in competing. But that's like putting a deadlift competition at the end of sprinting so that Europeans can compete.
I don't understood why they do speed climbing format like this. It seems like there's a lot of luck (opponent slipping) and outside factors (worry about a false start) that have nothing to do with climbing. I get that they seem to be trying to emulate the 100m dash format, but it just seems way too inconsistent. Seems like they should just let each climber go individually, and let the timer start whenever the foot leaves the pad. And instead of going 1v1, just have everyone's time be compared after each round. It will be a bit less exciting, but I think it has such a huge impact on the combined final score.
Perhaps I'm wrong. Anyone care to give an explanation on the format?
I hate speed climbing. I feel that it's just sort of thrown in there to emulate a tri discipline sporting event just to prove climbing as an olympic sport
Ye I really wonder about that format, would make waaay more sense to do it the way you've just described. I guess they're trying to make it into a race..
They're trying to make it more of a spectator sport like a track race. 6 walls would be cool to watch.
I proposed the same. But with real speed climber. They can say whatever they want but this format is still shait.
There is no real reason other than spectating. Speed climbing sucks, every climber thinks speed climbing sucks. We got a speed wall at one of our gyms and everyone groaned when asked at the reel rock event last year if they were excited to try it.
speed sucks so much that u can see in the face expresion of the climbers
first time in life i see athletes hating what they are doing
Can someone explain the speed climbing starting rule to me? Both Miho and Akiyo did not look a false start to me as they only took off after the last beep? It doesn't make sense to me at all when the commentator compared the feet position of the two competitors, one can just have a quicker reaction time ore release.
The way it works is that both competitors have one of their feet on a pressure pad before the timer starts. If the pressure drops significantly before the timer starts (note that the climber may still be touching the ground--if they start pushing off the ground too early it can still be a false start), a false start is declared. The comment about the feet position didn't have anything to do with the actual ruling--the commentator was just bringing attention to that since it shows that a false start was quite obvious considering how big the difference between the competitors was.
Thanks! The note helps. So does it work like the method in Track, where the pressure pad is calculating the reaction time after the start signal/sound?
There is a green light that lets them know when to go. As the light was about to turn green it was like a millisecond, but I guess the light must be 100% green before the foot leaves the sensor pad.
It's not so much the beep, but like Sean said above there is an indicator light on the top left of the startong position. That needs to turn green. Both Akiyo and Miho were milliseconds early.
1:42:13 I'm pretty sure that is illegal start :D. Judges - you had one job!! Of course not against Miho, but if that had been questioned after top/later on it would be really unfair.
1:43:35 didn't they kind of corrected it by counting 3 attempts ?
I guess the problem is, that start of successful attempt was incorrect, so top of that attempt should not be counted.
the guy who came up with this way of speed climbing was hamered or what?
Other two competition are 6 all vs each other but speed is in pairs... So fucked up. And only 1 attempt on start...
I would really wish that that 6 of finalist in olympics 2020 would agree to not participate on speed. And instead if they would be force to, just flip a coin and loser would go for fall start. That way no climber would even touch second hold :]
I dont like speed as many. But understand that it is part of it and its even good - they have more wide spectrum. Its great. But that execution of pair and FS.... So messed up.
It's even worse imo. Lead, bouldering, or any other form of climbing is athletes against the wall/rock and not against each other. That's why it's the only sport where they observe and share betas together!
Real climbing starts at 37:47
Bouldering and Lead is Climbing. Speed is crap! Especially with that stupid false start rule!
3:10:00
Why would they put the slowest time against the fastest? why not 1st against 4th, 2nd against 5th, 3rd against 6th? Makes more sense as they're not so spread out. Of course the first place time is going to beat the 6th place one.
That's the whole point of seeding. If you have a better seed, you should be put in a more advantageous position. Why should the 3rd fastest person be rewarded to race against the slowest? Doesn't make too much sense. But honestly, the whole Speed format doesn't make much sense either. I kinda get why they are doing it, but it's really ruining the spirit of climbing in my opinion. It's so unrelated to Lead and Bouldering..