This is important information. It’s easy to buy these amazing hand tools if you have the $$$, but knowing how to use them properly is much harder. Thanks for posting this!
Stanley invented open throat routers because closed throat routers had an issue with chips getting pushed under the front of the router. While not really a problem under wood routers, the harder surface on metal router planes would cause the chips to mar the surface. Being able to see further ahead was a positive side effect. So open throat routers are better for routing in the middle of a board because you are less likely to mar, while closed throat routers are better towards the edges and on thinner stock, where the extra support is helpful.
I was so excited to finally find a reasonably priced Stanley 71 in perfect working condition and try this method . Often times my tenon cheeks would be off parallel and the joint wouldn't be flat due mostly to my inexperienced chisel hand . These tools are indescribable . Wonderful video and bless you for sharing this .
Nice to see a router plane used from start to finish. Now to sharpen up my 045 and make a box for it. Currently lives in a cardboard box. Lee Valley sells a box but it feels like cheating....Probably best to make my workbench first and have a pile of Eastern Maple waiting to be put to work..
I am happy to know more about how to use my Router Plane when doing a dado by hand - thanks! On the other hand, using power tools to do same thing seems like a great option as well - multiple ways to skin a cat, as they say.
Nice video, thanks Bill. I've cut dados (and even rabbets) with a saw but thought this was just my own hackish approach. Good to see how others do it so I can always improve.
Paul Sellers answers this in the router plane Q&A on his channel. If you're routing a groove with a blind end, then wood chips will be thrown forward onto the surface of the work. As you pull back, the chips are drawn under the mouth of the plane and can mar the surface, so Stanley added that little humpback bridge at the mouth. However, if you're routing a groove in narrow material, like the edge of a board, then you need the mouth closed to support the plane against tipping forward, hence Stanley included the widget to convert back to a closed mouth. Hope that helps.
Your hold-fast is similar to mine - it doesn't hold correctly. I had to do a fair amount of power grinding to get it to hold correctly. Look at your video when you first use it and you will see that it only holds at the heel - not the toe or completely flat - which it should do. That is also why you have to really bash it to hold. The wood is spinning on the heel of the hold fast and the wood is pivoting. When it does this you bash it harder, further making it bend more, and thus making the pivot point sharper (so it pivots easier). The more you bash it the more it bends (and stays bent) the more the wood is going to pivot. It really should hold with a decent hit not a full muscle swing. That alone should tell you that something is wrong. Ideally it should hit at the toe, then bend back towards the heel to hold the piece in place.
@@borp6912 Yes the heel. Last line of above - hit the toe then bend back towards the heel. If it hits the heel first it will create a pivot point and not hold well at all - my experience.
@@jporterfield They will work - if - the hole is larger than the holdfast. The holdfast has to work at an angle. If not and too straight they won't hold. An easy test is to get a block of wood (even built up) that mimics the bench top thickness and drive the holdfast in and see if it will hold a block of wood. If it doesn't = enlarge the hole then try again till you get the right size hole. They only hold at an angle (which started this discussion).
It is working now, I checked the site yesterday and it was down, specifically the part of dividers and other measuring tools, anyways it seems to be working fine now :)
This is important information. It’s easy to buy these amazing hand tools if you have the $$$, but knowing how to use them properly is much harder. Thanks for posting this!
Stanley invented open throat routers because closed throat routers had an issue with chips getting pushed under the front of the router. While not really a problem under wood routers, the harder surface on metal router planes would cause the chips to mar the surface. Being able to see further ahead was a positive side effect. So open throat routers are better for routing in the middle of a board because you are less likely to mar, while closed throat routers are better towards the edges and on thinner stock, where the extra support is helpful.
Thanks
Today you have shown me a tool I have never seen before but now I understand clearly
Carsten
Like the way you show every detail and don't assume your audience gets it
Now, I can understand how to use my router plane properly!!
I have just discovered this channel and I am amazed by the depth of skill and attention to detail. I am looking forward to be a regular here.
Outstanding video
I was so excited to finally find a reasonably priced Stanley 71 in perfect working condition and try this method . Often times my tenon cheeks would be off parallel and the joint wouldn't be flat due mostly to my inexperienced chisel hand . These tools are indescribable . Wonderful video and bless you for sharing this .
Nice to see a router plane used from start to finish. Now to sharpen up my 045 and make a box for it. Currently lives in a cardboard box. Lee Valley sells a box but it feels like cheating....Probably best to make my workbench first and have a pile of Eastern Maple waiting to be put to work..
Some more very good tips from Bill!
Nice job Bill
Awesome. I got some good tips there. Thanks.
Essential bit of kit thanks for the video
Very nice process, thank you. What would you do if the saw is shorter than the length of the dado?
These videos are freaking amazing!
Wish we could get the Taytools Router and Planes for a reasonable price here in Australia!
Esas herramientas son joyas de verdad
I am happy to know more about how to use my Router Plane when doing a dado by hand - thanks! On the other hand, using power tools to do same thing seems like a great option as well - multiple ways to skin a cat, as they say.
Yup, if you've just got one or two shelves, this is the faster way. But if you've got more dadoes, then the table saw makes better sense.
Great demonstration .
Nice video, thanks Bill. I've cut dados (and even rabbets) with a saw but thought this was just my own hackish approach. Good to see how others do it so I can always improve.
Thanks for that video, very useful!
Glad it was helpful Philipp!
Thank Bill great video
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Your'e welcome!
Thanks Bill.
Good job, Thank you for your information.
Have you contacted Stanley re; your question about why they made an open throat hand router?
Paul Sellers answers this in the router plane Q&A on his channel. If you're routing a groove with a blind end, then wood chips will be thrown forward onto the surface of the work. As you pull back, the chips are drawn under the mouth of the plane and can mar the surface, so Stanley added that little humpback bridge at the mouth. However, if you're routing a groove in narrow material, like the edge of a board, then you need the mouth closed to support the plane against tipping forward, hence Stanley included the widget to convert back to a closed mouth. Hope that helps.
Where do we find hand router plane in Bangalore ??
Watch the Peter Sellars videos, and then make one...Good luck
Your hold-fast is similar to mine - it doesn't hold correctly. I had to do a fair amount of power grinding to get it to hold correctly.
Look at your video when you first use it and you will see that it only holds at the heel - not the toe or completely flat - which it should do.
That is also why you have to really bash it to hold. The wood is spinning on the heel of the hold fast and the wood is pivoting. When it does this you bash it harder, further making it bend more, and thus making the pivot point sharper (so it pivots easier).
The more you bash it the more it bends (and stays bent) the more the wood is going to pivot.
It really should hold with a decent hit not a full muscle swing. That alone should tell you that something is wrong.
Ideally it should hit at the toe, then bend back towards the heel to hold the piece in place.
Grind down which part? The heel?
@@borp6912
Yes the heel. Last line of above - hit the toe then bend back towards the heel.
If it hits the heel first it will create a pivot point and not hold well at all - my experience.
Regarding these holdfasts: will they work in 3” thick bench tops? Thanks
@@jporterfield
They will work - if - the hole is larger than the holdfast.
The holdfast has to work at an angle. If not and too straight they won't hold.
An easy test is to get a block of wood (even built up) that mimics the bench top thickness and drive the holdfast in and see if it will hold a block of wood.
If it doesn't = enlarge the hole then try again till you get the right size hole.
They only hold at an angle (which started this discussion).
Is that a New York accent? He sounds a bit like Harvey Keitel
Ha! We always joke about that. He grew up in Northern California!
By the way, your buying guide site has been down for ages.
What do you mean? I see that it is up and running normally.
It is working now, I checked the site yesterday and it was down, specifically the part of dividers and other measuring tools, anyways it seems to be working fine now :)
I'm sort of hijacking my own comments, but... which size of dividers would you recommend? 10mm or 15 mm thank you.
@@androidgameplays4every13 Ah, yes. Yesterday was a bad day. We had a server problem and the site was down the whole day.
@@androidgameplays4every13 Hmmm, I've never bought any based off of size, so I'm not sure. All sizes are useful for different reasons.
tried many way but can not get onto your web site/ store etc ????
Is it me, or is the whole bench racking?
I think i could live without the holdfast that doesnt hold anything fast!