I own these speakers and as you mention, they offer one of the smoothest listening experience. I hooked them with Yamaha AX amp from 90's and OMG, I can dive into music for hours and hours - pure enjoyment.
I just purchased a pair of Triangle Borea 07 floorstands because my old friend told me this brand is easy load for low powered tube 10w amps but when i saw that floorstander with minimum impedance 5 Ohm and 92dbwm y just into get two of it, i think it will pair great with my also on way "amp for more than 4 ohm speaker" "low THD" Topping B100 monoblocks, my great sounding Promitheus TVC passive inductive line stage and my also Topping E50 DAC powered by linear PSU all wired with canare interconnects and Sommer coaxial speaker cable, great teardown liked subcribed!
Very true "manufacturing note" at 6:15. My Borea BR03 is not well matched so that left side of the woofer protrudes roughly 0.5mm outside the front speaker plane. My grills stay on and OCD is under control so not very bothered by it.
The resistor and cap across the woofer is a Zobel network to compensate for the impedance rise at higher frequencies due to the inductance of the voice coil. That allows the inductor (this would be a 1st order crossover for the woofer) to see a flat impedance across the load at higher frequencies and allow it to work as calculated to block them. Otherwise you get less effectiveness from the inductor as frequency rises and it's counter productive.
Thanks for the breakdown. I always take a look inside my gear to see if there’s anything I should upgrade to a higher quality part. They kinda had to use an electrolytic cap for the sub, because a 33uf poly cap would be huge. Thx for the vid, man.
@Nick Pantazi the poly caps get insanely big. I've upgraded a couple crossovers before and they definitely take up a lot more space in the enclosure (and cost a LOT more).
A capacitor and a resistor in parallel with the woofer is called a ZOBEL NETWORK. Zobels tame the impedance spike that woofers naturally have near the bottom of their frequency response. 8 ohm woofers are really 8 ohm rated when you implement a ZOBEL network.
The question about the binding porst are they steel or brass. If they are steel removing that from the signal path will improve profomance. The woofer frame sounds like its a stamped frame. You can if there's room apply dense foam strips to the legs. The Plastic divider on the tweeter is a dispersion device. That the Crossover has copper inductors verses cheap Iron inductors. There crossover looks better thae a lot of speakers I've seen from $1500 to 2K on Dany's Channel.
David J I have the REL T5i. The speakers have decent bass on their own, but when you hear it side by side with the REL. It’s 100% worth the investment. Hope you get a chance to hear them.
To save less than 90 bucks they would cheap out on crossover parts. That is sad. I would pay easily a hundred more knowing that the parts were top quality. This is the reason I bother with DIY. Great vid. Love the mod. Can you do one for the ELAC debut 2.0. With some many sold it would be a cheap mod that many can try.
If you spend an extra $100 on upgraded crossover components, you are never going to admit you just wasted $100. The stock components look fine to me. I use active crossovers myself, with DSP, for real quantifiable improvements.
I'm not convinced that a better crossover would make the speaker better. In fact, if you wired the drivers in series and played them at a lower volume, they may sound better because the XO would not get in the way of the music. I do know that some high end speaker makers do not use a crossover at all.
just ordered them from amazon, light oak to go with my stereo stand for 199.00 right now. replacing the jbl a130 which are good but lm tiring of dark equipment. introducing lighter gear.
Hello, a comparison with the Comete model of the higher category Esprit would be nice. Who knows if there is all this difference in terms of sound quality compared to the Borea. Have you got to try a Schmidt speaker from the Esprit series?
Thanks for the video, excellent teardown! I've been on the hunt for a speaker that's smooth and non-fatiguing, but also dynamic and engaging with classic rock, not too soft or muffled. FTR, rock is not the only music I listen to - my tastes are very versatile (from rock and pop to jazz, acoustic, vocal and classical). You said these triangles aren't for metal. How about rock, mostly 60s-80s classic rock? Any speakers you can recommend for a small room?
Correct, I think metal music gets a bit too busy for these speakers but rock would be no problem at all. These also work well in a small to medium room.
Unfortunately, I cannot give you a solid answer on that because I have not yet heard the 3020i’s. They do seem like very similar speakers in a lot of respects. The 3020i’s are significantly cheaper that’s for sure. What I can say is that you would never be disappointed with the Borea BR02’s if you don’t mind the higher price tag.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thank you. Ill get br02 they look better quality. Have you eve tried sony strdh190 receiver? Or any low cost integrated amp or receiver?
The Yamaha R-S202BL and the Topping PA3 I’ve found are both decent amps in the $100 range. The PA3 is a class D with a little less power but is very clean sounding. The R-S202 has a warmer sound but is not quite as clean. But it does have a remote and inputs to choose from.
Anıl Yazar I have owned the Q acoustics 2020i's for 4 years, which are the older model of the 3020i's. They are good little speakers for the price i paid. (100 GBP at the time) I think for the price you would be hard pushed to find something much better. That being said, if you like bass, then the Q acoustics might not be for you. However, the mids are fairly decent, and the highs are pretty well refined without every sounding too harsh or shrill. Imaging and sound stage is pretty good if you pair them with a half decent DAC and amplifier. The overall sound signature of the Q Acoustics is fairly warm and neutral. They do like a fair amount of power, so pair them with an amplifier of at least 40-50 Watts per channel.
Hey Casey interesting review but it would be helpful if moving forward you could include your gear list and room setup, that way potential subs can better assess your points vis a vis the particular piece of gear being reviewed. Without that context it is very hard to judge if what you are saying makes sense or not.
@Michael Mityok Thanks for the suggestion! Since I tend to focus on the technical aspects of the speakers, my thoughts during the video weren't so much on the listening environment or other gear in the setup. I can certainly go more in-depth in the future with my setup.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thanks. One more thing. Is the crossover screwed to that wooden block or attached with magnets? How did you get the crossover detached in such a tight space?
So glad to find this video . Give me confidence that i might be able to replace the broken binding post on my BR02 but can you tell me how to remove the binding post/plate on it ? Its not a regular screw . thanks in advance
@@Casey_Schmidt Thanks so much , i was able to open using Allen and replace the broken binding post terminal ! Now my Triangle speakers are working again. Subscribed to your channel !
Thanks for your review. Just a quick question, am I still able to connect the speakers with banana clips? I have a pair of very old BIC America from the early 2000s. The wire goes directly into the speaker(old school) if I purchase these, can just put the speaker wire in some banana clips and plug them in? Thanks
@@pushplay36 do an image search for "5 way binding post" and you'l see what I mean. You don't unscrew the terminals all the way because the thumb screws are also what clamp down on the wire.
HAVE A QUESTION: if i decide to shape the upper box (model borea br-08) to create an open baffle mid and tweeter , is it possible? those drivers will work properly open air? what u think about that? thanks
Almost certainly not. Open baffle drivers require a very high QTS in order to work properly without having an enclosed to load. Low Qts drivers are have too soft of suspensions and will hit Xmax before evening coming close to their rates output. Long story short, they will mechanically wreck themselves without making much sound, they need the enclosure.
Just snagged a pair from Focus Camera in walnut for $205.00! Was on the fence between the 03 and the 02. The discount sealed the deal Plus I hear the 02 sounds better. Less listening fatigue
I think you are being a little too kind to Triangle. They choose to make these in China. The other french brand, Focal, still makes all their speakers in house and in France. You can get the Focal Chorus 605 for $300 new. Loved your crossover video BTW.
@Orange County Car Geek - You are probably right. But it is hard to find any company willing to implement some of the features this speaker has. That said, I do agree with you that they really should be making it in their own country rather than exporting the parts and labor. I think it is well within group their capability. Thanks for watching!
Hello i have a question if i may. If you change a crossover, did you get different sound , or more defined, quality sound but different? Or what combination? Hope that question makes sense. Thanks for the advice given in your video. ( Im asking because i like the br02 but i don't want different sound, but better sound and same sound signature)
I agree. Their speakers do sound good but the more I’ve thought about it, the more I think that Klipsch is a bit overpriced when you look at the build quality. And like you said, the RP-600M has surprisingly low build quality for the price. It’s made of 5/8” mdf instead of 3/4” and doesn’t even have internal bracing.
@@Casey_Schmidt I agree, the Klipsch Reference and Reference Premiere series of today are poorly made, expensive, and overrated. They only are interesting with a discount, and not interesting at all if you want a true hi-fi sound.
Great video. As I'm attempting to dip my toes into crossovers myself, I'd like to ask you how did you determine the values of the inductors? Many thanks.
@Leonard Emilian - Inductors can be measured with a form of digital multimeter called an LCR meter. They can be found pretty easily online in various price and quality levels. I’d recommend searching RUclips for some reviews on some to find the one you want. I just got a cheap $20 one because it gets close enough to the nominal value of each component. Thanks for watching!
@@Casey_Schmidt Oh, I see. While with caps and resistors having a multimeter is pretty straight forward, I always though you needed an oscilloscope and a signal generator for inductors (pretty out of my field of expertise stuff). But I'll definitely have a look into LCRs. Many thanks. One learns something every day, I guess.
@@khameeleeon - if you want to get the perfect value of the component, you’re correct that an oscilloscope is the right tool. But an LCR meter is designed to measure resistance, inductance, and capacitance; hence the name LCR.
@Tibanu - From an engineering perspective, the ELAC's are fair step ahead. From a listening and enjoyment perspective, that is really for each listener to decide for him/herself. I personally think that the Borea's are a much better looking speaker but that is also down to taste.
@jack falco - Not really. Bass “tightness” is tied directly to the woofer’s construction, t/s parameters, and enclosure design. The best you could do is to experiment with different amounts of stuffing, add vibration-absorbing material to the inner walls, and... that’s basically it. You might be able to do something with changing the crossover design but it’s unlikely to get much results there. I think their bass is already really clean for a ported speaker but others may disagree. Great question!
For anyone not having head the speaker first! DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING IN THE SPEAKER, LET IT BE! The speaker is heavily reliable on the crossover it already has, which utilizes the tweeter around 60/40 compared to the woofer, will happily give advice if needed
danielf4000 upgrading the crossover with or without higher quality components away from the stock values would definitely be a bad idea without taking proper frequency response measurements. But as long as you keep the values of each component the same as the original crossover, the frequency response and power distribution between the tweeter and woofer won’t change with better parts. Thanks for commenting!
@CZ - That is a great question and something I don't think I addressed in the video. In my opinion, the BR03 might be a little on the big side for a desk whereas the BR02 would be more appropriately sized. But that can also be down to taste/preference. From my experience with the BR02's, I think they can work well in both full room and desk applications. I personally feel that they are better in the full room environment where you can sit a little further away from them.
@CZ - Unfortunately, I haven't gotten to listen to the BR03's in person so definitely take what I say with a grain of salt. That said, the BR03's should be very similar to the BR02's in terms of the nature of the sound since they are mostly identical. The obvious difference is that the BR03's will have fair bit more low-end. If you plan to pair these with a good subwoofer, it probably wouldn't make a lot of difference between the two. If you don't have a solid sub or if you plan to run without a sub, the BR03's would be better if you are looking for the best bass response. One more thing to think about is that the BR03's will fill a larger room much more easily than the BR02's. So if you want more flexibility out of them, then maybe the BR03's would be the safer option. Either way, they are both great speakers for the money so I don't think you could go wrong with either!
I just found your channel and wow, great content! Really thorough analysis of the production quality, keep it up! Btw, how did you measure the inductor values? Got the Br03‘s and thinking about upgrading the crossover
@Dinh Duy Nguyen thank you! I used an inexpensive multimeter that measures inductance, capacitance, and resistance. I measured each component while still soldiered in the circuit which is not the “correct” way to do it, however, the reading on the meter gets close enough to the standard value of each component that you can easily determine what the value is. Again, not the “correct” way but it works well enough for my purposes. You could also contact Danny Richie over at GR Research for more info on possible upgrades options.
Casey Schmidt I see, thanks! Upgrading the inductor isn‘t as simple as swapping the inductor with a thicker gauge air core inductor with the same inductance value, is it? Since inductors have resistance as well, right?
Dinh Duy Nguyen that is correct. The larger gauge wire has less resistance which will change the perimeters of the crossover. As long as you’re not trying to get a mathematically perfect crossover, it shouldn’t make too big of a difference. I’ve upgraded several crossovers with the stock values (ignoring the lower resistance of the inductors) and have always ended up with excellent results with no adverse effects due to the larger gauge inductors.
@@Casey_Schmidt Just opened my Br03's and interestingly enough it had film caps for the tweeter AND the woofer. The woofer cap is only 8.2uf as well which i find surprising. I am so amazed at the component quality they put in these budget level speakers.
I laughed out loud when you said sand cast resistor! I said oh boy we have a Danny Ritchie fanboy here! haha. There is NO such thing as a sand cast resistor! That's a term Danny made up. They are wirewound resistors. Same type of resistor he replaces them out with. They're in a cemented rectangular body so that they can be securely glued to a circuit board. Just go to Mouser and try and do a search for sandcast resistor... There's also nothing wrong with electrolytic capacitors. They are made of a paper winding and sound more natural. "poly" caps is a very broad term and covers many types of poly versions but they are all forms of plastic and plastic sounds like plastic and the higher the voltage rating the thicker that plastic will be. Thicker plastic will translate into a harder, stiffer, glarey and more plastic overall sound. Metalized poly caps have a grainy thin sound with less bloom and overtones compared to a solid foil conductor. Just because a capacitor is more expensive to manufacture does not mean that it will automatically sound better.
@@Casey_Schmidt Hi Mr. Are you still with Triangle? Too bad you upgraded them. They don't have the potential. Because drivers very primitive. Don't waste time on them.
Triangle did a lot of good things with these but in the end they still measure poorly. I've gone through many speakers they haven't really done much here I haven't seen in speakers half the price. Their performance isn't good enough to justify the price when speakers like the JBL Stage A130 are around. But Im also not willing to pay double for ascetics. Bare copper wire dirctly to the binding post is free and better than bananas or tube connectors. Gr
From what I'm seeing in this video, the Triangle's cabinets do NOT appear to be constructed of 3/4" MDF. Regardless of what YOU say about Klipsch's cabinet's construction, the 600M will easily "mop the floor" with this Triangle garbage. In fact, I'm willing to bet 9 out of 10 people would pick the Klipsch as the better SOUNDING speaker over this Triangle garbage in a controlled blind listening test. In addition, Klipsch will easily sell more of their Reference Premiere speakers in one week than this French outfit will in one month...LOL.
@Stephen Overton I went back and remeasured the wall thickness and it is indeed 5/8" and not 3/4", I must have mismeasured the first time so thank you for pointing that out. On your other points, I think it is pretty clear that the construction and build quality of this speaker is higher than that of the RP600M. The Klipsch lacks wall bracing, gasketed fasteners, and cabinet stuffing. I will site the upgrade series done by Danny Richie over at GR Research as a second source for that. I completely agree that Klipsch will probably sell more speakers in a month than Triangle will in a year. But that I think has more to do with Klipsch's marketing team and the fact that they've been around longer. I would also mostly agree that most of the "general audience/consumers" would probably prefer the RP600M over the Borea BR02 in a listening session because the RP600M's are much brighter, louder, and in your face than the BR02's which have a much softer and flatter response. Now, saying which is the better speaker is completely subjective based on what you define "best" to be. For me, I think the better speaker is one that is built well with great fit-and-finish. Others may want the flattest possible frequency response. Others, still, may prefer the one that "sounds that best" regardless of the actual measured response or build quality. To sum it up, I will stand by that the Borea is a better built speaker. But it's always up to the listener to decide which one sounds better. Thank you for your input!
You had me till you started mentioning "Tube connectors"......obviously you have no idea between actual things that improve audio and Snake Oil products.......Yikes!
I own these speakers and as you mention, they offer one of the smoothest listening experience. I hooked them with Yamaha AX amp from 90's and OMG, I can dive into music for hours and hours - pure enjoyment.
I just purchased a pair of Triangle Borea 07 floorstands because my old friend told me this brand is easy load for low powered tube 10w amps but when i saw that floorstander with minimum impedance 5 Ohm and 92dbwm y just into get two of it, i think it will pair great with my also on way "amp for more than 4 ohm speaker" "low THD" Topping B100 monoblocks, my great sounding Promitheus TVC passive inductive line stage and my also Topping E50 DAC powered by linear PSU all wired with canare interconnects and Sommer coaxial speaker cable, great teardown liked subcribed!
What a fascinating video. First of its kind that I have seen. Thank you.
@KAL - 589 - Thank you!
Interesting and great review. I tried the BR03 and they shredded my ears in the highs, will have to maybe try the 02s.
Very true "manufacturing note" at 6:15. My Borea BR03 is not well matched so that left side of the woofer protrudes roughly 0.5mm outside the front speaker plane. My grills stay on and OCD is under control so not very bothered by it.
Very nice in depth analysis, great video! I just got a pair of them and I’m looking forward to trying it out
Active acoustics in the Borea line is gorgeous, I recommend it!
The resistor and cap across the woofer is a Zobel network to compensate for the impedance rise at higher frequencies due to the inductance of the voice coil. That allows the inductor (this would be a 1st order crossover for the woofer) to see a flat impedance across the load at higher frequencies and allow it to work as calculated to block them. Otherwise you get less effectiveness from the inductor as frequency rises and it's counter productive.
I once worked with a man named Zobel.
Thanks for the breakdown. I always take a look inside my gear to see if there’s anything I should upgrade to a higher quality part. They kinda had to use an electrolytic cap for the sub, because a 33uf poly cap would be huge. Thx for the vid, man.
@Nick Pantazi the poly caps get insanely big. I've upgraded a couple crossovers before and they definitely take up a lot more space in the enclosure (and cost a LOT more).
Very informative, thanks.
A capacitor and a resistor in parallel with the woofer is called a ZOBEL NETWORK. Zobels tame the impedance spike that woofers naturally have near the bottom of their frequency response. 8 ohm woofers are really 8 ohm rated when you implement a ZOBEL network.
I once worked with a guy named Zobel.
The question about the binding porst are they steel or brass. If they are steel removing that from the signal path will improve profomance. The woofer frame sounds like its a stamped frame. You can if there's room apply dense foam strips to the legs. The Plastic divider on the tweeter is a dispersion device. That the Crossover has copper inductors verses cheap Iron inductors. There crossover looks better thae a lot of speakers I've seen from $1500 to 2K on Dany's Channel.
You realize it does not matter right?
The BR03 has poly caps for the woofer and the tweeter
thank you for doing this! amazing video!
Nice, perhaps a BR03 breakdown in the future?
@CD - ROM that's a good idea. I wouldn't be against reviewing another Triangle.
Casey Schmidt I picked up a pair recently, and paired them with a couple REL subs. Sounds wonderful.
That sounds like an excellent combo!
@@cd-rom. Hi, I also have BR03, and thought of adding a REL. Curious, wich sub pair did you choose / recommend?
David J I have the REL T5i. The speakers have decent bass on their own, but when you hear it side by side with the REL. It’s 100% worth the investment. Hope you get a chance to hear them.
Thats the review I want to see on a new product! Not just blaboling about sound perception in some room and eq. I never gonna have.
To save less than 90 bucks they would cheap out on crossover parts. That is sad. I would pay easily a hundred more knowing that the parts were top quality. This is the reason I bother with DIY. Great vid. Love the mod. Can you do one for the ELAC debut 2.0. With some many sold it would be a cheap mod that many can try.
I have the BRO3 and I love them. I pair them with the Carver M500t power amp, 250wpc
If you spend an extra $100 on upgraded crossover components, you are never going to admit you just wasted $100.
The stock components look fine to me.
I use active crossovers myself, with DSP, for real quantifiable improvements.
Great work! Hope to see more speakers!
Nice work Casey. Subscribed.
@Joe N Tell - Thank you!
Very good and informative , thank you
@Ben - Thank you!
Great Review! Thanks.
mystique thank you!
Great description! 👍🏽
These are better than the 3
What's your opinion on the bro 8
I'm not convinced that a better crossover would make the speaker better. In fact, if you wired the drivers in series and played them at a lower volume, they may sound better because the XO would not get in the way of the music. I do know that some high end speaker makers do not use a crossover at all.
Hi Do the Triangle Borea 2 BT sound as good as the passive versions? Thanks!
I’m not sure, I haven’t had a chance to listen to them.
just ordered them from amazon, light oak to go with my stereo stand for 199.00 right now. replacing the jbl a130 which are good but lm tiring of dark equipment. introducing lighter gear.
I'm still thinking about the BR02 speakers but am not sure if they are sounding better than my Canton Karat 920 from the 90s...
I have the BR03. You wouldn't happen to know the component values in that crossover by any chance? Great info here!! Thanks!!
I do not, there are likely schematics already published for it.
@rockeraaj, any news about BR03 crossover value? Tnx
Hello, a comparison with the Comete model of the higher category Esprit would be nice. Who knows if there is all this difference in terms of sound quality compared to the Borea.
Have you got to try a Schmidt speaker from the Esprit series?
@RocketV8 - I haven't had a chance to get my hands on the other Triangle speakers yet but if/when I do, I will definitely do a teardown of them!
Nice stuff.
The bro3 uses a large poly cap for the woofer. At least thats what a TeeJay 'open hood' video shows. Quite happy with that. 😊
Thanks for the video, excellent teardown! I've been on the hunt for a speaker that's smooth and non-fatiguing, but also dynamic and engaging with classic rock, not too soft or muffled. FTR, rock is not the only music I listen to - my tastes are very versatile (from rock and pop to jazz, acoustic, vocal and classical).
You said these triangles aren't for metal. How about rock, mostly 60s-80s classic rock? Any speakers you can recommend for a small room?
Correct, I think metal music gets a bit too busy for these speakers but rock would be no problem at all. These also work well in a small to medium room.
Thanks for mentioning the metal music part. What *would* you recommend for metal... Bookshelves or otherwise..
From the speakers that I’ve owned or gotten to listen to extensively, Klipsch, Paradigm, and JBL have been good for metal.
borea br02 or q acoustics 3020i?
Unfortunately, I cannot give you a solid answer on that because I have not yet heard the 3020i’s. They do seem like very similar speakers in a lot of respects. The 3020i’s are significantly cheaper that’s for sure. What I can say is that you would never be disappointed with the Borea BR02’s if you don’t mind the higher price tag.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thank you. Ill get br02 they look better quality. Have you eve tried sony strdh190 receiver? Or any low cost integrated amp or receiver?
The Yamaha R-S202BL and the Topping PA3 I’ve found are both decent amps in the $100 range. The PA3 is a class D with a little less power but is very clean sounding. The R-S202 has a warmer sound but is not quite as clean. But it does have a remote and inputs to choose from.
Anıl Yazar
I have owned the Q acoustics 2020i's for 4 years, which are the older model of the 3020i's. They are good little speakers for the price i paid. (100 GBP at the time) I think for the price you would be hard pushed to find something much better. That being said, if you like bass, then the Q acoustics might not be for you. However, the mids are fairly decent, and the highs are pretty well refined without every sounding too harsh or shrill. Imaging and sound stage is pretty good if you pair them with a half decent DAC and amplifier. The overall sound signature of the Q Acoustics is fairly warm and neutral. They do like a fair amount of power, so pair them with an amplifier of at least 40-50 Watts per channel.
Ambient Wonderer thanks for the input!
Hey Casey interesting review but it would be helpful if moving forward you could include your gear list and room setup, that way potential subs can better assess your points vis a vis the particular piece of gear being reviewed. Without that context it is very hard to judge if what you are saying makes sense or not.
@Michael Mityok Thanks for the suggestion! Since I tend to focus on the technical aspects of the speakers, my thoughts during the video weren't so much on the listening environment or other gear in the setup. I can certainly go more in-depth in the future with my setup.
I have the BR03. I am wondering if it's worth to add internal bracing or dampening material to remove any resonances.
Check out my video on the Paradigm Mini Monitor V2’s. I showed an easy way to add bracing.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thanks. One more thing. Is the crossover screwed to that wooden block or attached with magnets? How did you get the crossover detached in such a tight space?
@@leo11877 it is screwed in. Four screws.
So glad to find this video . Give me confidence that i might be able to replace the broken binding post on my BR02 but can you tell me how to remove the binding post/plate on it ? Its not a regular screw . thanks in advance
They are all normal screws for the binding post plate. No surprise there, unlike the front which is taped on.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thanks for the reply but mine is not a normal screws . I think i will need small allen wrench to remove the bind post?
@@myat3279 the plate should come off with an Allen or Phillips head screw, the post just have a hex but on the back I believe.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thanks so much , i was able to open using Allen and replace the broken binding post terminal ! Now my Triangle speakers are working again. Subscribed to your channel !
Thanks for your review. Just a quick question, am I still able to connect the speakers with banana clips? I have a pair of very old BIC America from the early 2000s. The wire goes directly into the speaker(old school) if I purchase these, can just put the speaker wire in some banana clips and plug them in? Thanks
If you unscrew the terminals, there is a cross-drilled hole on each one where you can clamp bare wire.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thank you, so they’ll be no option to use the banana clips?
@@pushplay36 do an image search for "5 way binding post" and you'l see what I mean. You don't unscrew the terminals all the way because the thumb screws are also what clamp down on the wire.
Please do this for the Triangle Titus EZ or Comete EZ, great work.
@Slickman Elite - I definitely will if I get the chance!
@@Casey_Schmidt Awesome man thanks
HAVE A QUESTION: if i decide to shape the upper box (model borea br-08) to create an open baffle mid and tweeter , is it possible? those drivers will work properly open air? what u think about that? thanks
Almost certainly not. Open baffle drivers require a very high QTS in order to work properly without having an enclosed to load. Low Qts drivers are have too soft of suspensions and will hit Xmax before evening coming close to their rates output. Long story short, they will mechanically wreck themselves without making much sound, they need the enclosure.
Thanks for the great video and the breakdown, you have a new subscriber. These speakers are now $299, what do you think about them at that price?
They’d be very hard to beat at that price.
Just snagged a pair from Focus Camera in walnut for
$205.00! Was on the fence between the 03 and the 02.
The discount sealed the deal
Plus I hear the 02 sounds better. Less listening fatigue
They're $200 a pair right now (Nov 23)
I think you are being a little too kind to Triangle. They choose to make these in China. The other french brand, Focal, still makes all their speakers in house and in France. You can get the Focal Chorus 605 for $300 new. Loved your crossover video BTW.
@Orange County Car Geek - You are probably right. But it is hard to find any company willing to implement some of the features this speaker has. That said, I do agree with you that they really should be making it in their own country rather than exporting the parts and labor. I think it is well within group their capability. Thanks for watching!
Hello i have a question if i may. If you change a crossover, did you get different sound , or more defined, quality sound but different? Or what combination? Hope that question makes sense. Thanks for the advice given in your video. ( Im asking because i like the br02 but i don't want different sound, but better sound and same sound signature)
The character of the speaker is unchanged. The clarity is slightly better.
These speakers seem to be built better than the Klipsch RP-600M and those are almost $200 more expensive.
I agree. Their speakers do sound good but the more I’ve thought about it, the more I think that Klipsch is a bit overpriced when you look at the build quality. And like you said, the RP-600M has surprisingly low build quality for the price. It’s made of 5/8” mdf instead of 3/4” and doesn’t even have internal bracing.
@@Casey_Schmidt I agree, the Klipsch Reference and Reference Premiere series of today are poorly made, expensive, and overrated. They only are interesting with a discount, and not interesting at all if you want a true hi-fi sound.
Great video. As I'm attempting to dip my toes into crossovers myself, I'd like to ask you how did you determine the values of the inductors? Many thanks.
@Leonard Emilian - Inductors can be measured with a form of digital multimeter called an LCR meter. They can be found pretty easily online in various price and quality levels. I’d recommend searching RUclips for some reviews on some to find the one you want. I just got a cheap $20 one because it gets close enough to the nominal value of each component. Thanks for watching!
@@Casey_Schmidt Oh, I see. While with caps and resistors having a multimeter is pretty straight forward, I always though you needed an oscilloscope and a signal generator for inductors (pretty out of my field of expertise stuff). But I'll definitely have a look into LCRs. Many thanks. One learns something every day, I guess.
@@khameeleeon - if you want to get the perfect value of the component, you’re correct that an oscilloscope is the right tool. But an LCR meter is designed to measure resistance, inductance, and capacitance; hence the name LCR.
Where do you buy your crossover parts from?
Sonic Craft and Parts Express; both online.
are the ELAC speakers better ?
@Tibanu - From an engineering perspective, the ELAC's are fair step ahead. From a listening and enjoyment perspective, that is really for each listener to decide for him/herself. I personally think that the Borea's are a much better looking speaker but that is also down to taste.
any way to tighten up bass?
@jack falco - Not really. Bass “tightness” is tied directly to the woofer’s construction, t/s parameters, and enclosure design. The best you could do is to experiment with different amounts of stuffing, add vibration-absorbing material to the inner walls, and... that’s basically it. You might be able to do something with changing the crossover design but it’s unlikely to get much results there. I think their bass is already really clean for a ported speaker but others may disagree. Great question!
For anyone not having head the speaker first!
DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING IN THE SPEAKER, LET IT BE!
The speaker is heavily reliable on the crossover it already has, which utilizes the tweeter around 60/40 compared to the woofer, will happily give advice if needed
danielf4000 upgrading the crossover with or without higher quality components away from the stock values would definitely be a bad idea without taking proper frequency response measurements. But as long as you keep the values of each component the same as the original crossover, the frequency response and power distribution between the tweeter and woofer won’t change with better parts. Thanks for commenting!
br02 or br03 for desktop?
@CZ - That is a great question and something I don't think I addressed in the video. In my opinion, the BR03 might be a little on the big side for a desk whereas the BR02 would be more appropriately sized. But that can also be down to taste/preference. From my experience with the BR02's, I think they can work well in both full room and desk applications. I personally feel that they are better in the full room environment where you can sit a little further away from them.
@@Casey_Schmidt thanks for the quick response, my desk is large enough to accommodate both. Would the sound be any different to the br03?
@CZ - Unfortunately, I haven't gotten to listen to the BR03's in person so definitely take what I say with a grain of salt. That said, the BR03's should be very similar to the BR02's in terms of the nature of the sound since they are mostly identical. The obvious difference is that the BR03's will have fair bit more low-end. If you plan to pair these with a good subwoofer, it probably wouldn't make a lot of difference between the two. If you don't have a solid sub or if you plan to run without a sub, the BR03's would be better if you are looking for the best bass response. One more thing to think about is that the BR03's will fill a larger room much more easily than the BR02's. So if you want more flexibility out of them, then maybe the BR03's would be the safer option. Either way, they are both great speakers for the money so I don't think you could go wrong with either!
I just found your channel and wow, great content! Really thorough analysis of the production quality, keep it up!
Btw, how did you measure the inductor values? Got the Br03‘s and thinking about upgrading the crossover
@Dinh Duy Nguyen thank you! I used an inexpensive multimeter that measures inductance, capacitance, and resistance. I measured each component while still soldiered in the circuit which is not the “correct” way to do it, however, the reading on the meter gets close enough to the standard value of each component that you can easily determine what the value is. Again, not the “correct” way but it works well enough for my purposes. You could also contact Danny Richie over at GR Research for more info on possible upgrades options.
Casey Schmidt I see, thanks! Upgrading the inductor isn‘t as simple as swapping the inductor with a thicker gauge air core inductor with the same inductance value, is it? Since inductors have resistance as well, right?
Dinh Duy Nguyen that is correct. The larger gauge wire has less resistance which will change the perimeters of the crossover. As long as you’re not trying to get a mathematically perfect crossover, it shouldn’t make too big of a difference. I’ve upgraded several crossovers with the stock values (ignoring the lower resistance of the inductors) and have always ended up with excellent results with no adverse effects due to the larger gauge inductors.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thanks for the info! Gonna order some crossover parts and try my luck :D
@@Casey_Schmidt Just opened my Br03's and interestingly enough it had film caps for the tweeter AND the woofer. The woofer cap is only 8.2uf as well which i find surprising. I am so amazed at the component quality they put in these budget level speakers.
The "protection" on the tweeter is actually more about sound. It is called phase plug.
People who return things all the time, buy multiple speakers then send back the ones they don't like, they drive up prices on us good decent people.
Totally agree. For me, when I buy it, it is mine.
I laughed out loud when you said sand cast resistor! I said oh boy we have a Danny Ritchie fanboy here! haha. There is NO such thing as a sand cast resistor! That's a term Danny made up. They are wirewound resistors. Same type of resistor he replaces them out with. They're in a cemented rectangular body so that they can be securely glued to a circuit board. Just go to Mouser and try and do a search for sandcast resistor... There's also nothing wrong with electrolytic capacitors. They are made of a paper winding and sound more natural. "poly" caps is a very broad term and covers many types of poly versions but they are all forms of plastic and plastic sounds like plastic and the higher the voltage rating the thicker that plastic will be. Thicker plastic will translate into a harder, stiffer, glarey and more plastic overall sound. Metalized poly caps have a grainy thin sound with less bloom and overtones compared to a solid foil conductor. Just because a capacitor is more expensive to manufacture does not mean that it will automatically sound better.
Fair enough.
@@Casey_Schmidt Hi Mr. Are you still with Triangle? Too bad you upgraded them. They don't have the potential. Because drivers very primitive. Don't waste time on them.
Triangle did a lot of good things with these but in the end they still measure poorly. I've gone through many speakers they haven't really done much here I haven't seen in speakers half the price. Their performance isn't good enough to justify the price when speakers like the JBL Stage A130 are around. But Im also not willing to pay double for ascetics. Bare copper wire dirctly to the binding post is free and better than bananas or tube connectors. Gr
"a nice chunk of ABS plastic"
Only the nicest. We deserve the best.
Wow we get ringing basket for that much money
pathetic
umm what?
"I've never seen that before" " they wanted it to be better" come on man, you haven't seen much I guess.
From what I'm seeing in this video, the Triangle's cabinets do NOT appear to be constructed of 3/4" MDF.
Regardless of what YOU say about Klipsch's cabinet's construction, the 600M will easily "mop the floor" with this Triangle garbage.
In fact, I'm willing to bet 9 out of 10 people would pick the Klipsch as the better SOUNDING speaker over this Triangle garbage in a controlled blind listening test.
In addition, Klipsch will easily sell more of their Reference Premiere speakers in one week than this French outfit will in one month...LOL.
@Stephen Overton I went back and remeasured the wall thickness and it is indeed 5/8" and not 3/4", I must have mismeasured the first time so thank you for pointing that out.
On your other points, I think it is pretty clear that the construction and build quality of this speaker is higher than that of the RP600M. The Klipsch lacks wall bracing, gasketed fasteners, and cabinet stuffing. I will site the upgrade series done by Danny Richie over at GR Research as a second source for that.
I completely agree that Klipsch will probably sell more speakers in a month than Triangle will in a year. But that I think has more to do with Klipsch's marketing team and the fact that they've been around longer.
I would also mostly agree that most of the "general audience/consumers" would probably prefer the RP600M over the Borea BR02 in a listening session because the RP600M's are much brighter, louder, and in your face than the BR02's which have a much softer and flatter response.
Now, saying which is the better speaker is completely subjective based on what you define "best" to be. For me, I think the better speaker is one that is built well with great fit-and-finish. Others may want the flattest possible frequency response. Others, still, may prefer the one that "sounds that best" regardless of the actual measured response or build quality.
To sum it up, I will stand by that the Borea is a better built speaker. But it's always up to the listener to decide which one sounds better.
Thank you for your input!
Lol relax Klipsch shill. I disagree
Looks pretty cheesy to me.
You had me till you started mentioning "Tube connectors"......obviously you have no idea between actual things that improve audio and Snake Oil products.......Yikes!
Honestly I probably ever had you then. Placebo cures many ails. Speakers are fun but I have moved on to other hobbies. Thanks and enjoy.
Shit drivers and crossover
a lot of unneccesary crap talk
Yeah maybe but if that’s the case, then why did you bother clicking on the video?
500$ for this crap? LOL!