Thanks Journeyman! I'm addicted to these vintage engines. Just something very satisfying about watching them putt along after Decades of use. Cheers!! Zip~
There are 3 ways to change from regular negative ignition to positive ignition. With small battery draw, a cylinder type motorcycle coil can be used with accessory Stens ignition module. Just follow instruction sheet, and switch leads + and - . The magnetos and Magnetrons use the magnet energy from flywheel. The second method is to purchase the older style pre 1982 Magneto only, which is just a transformer. Make sure of small or regular size as 12HP engine. Mount upside down and add the Stens accessory trigger module with directions. Add high voltage diode with cathode band facing forward, and will prove Positive high volts output. The briggs brand trigger module can also be used , you have to file edges to get it to fit on metal core leg. Briggs regular Magnetrons will not work upside down because of the embedded Briggs brand trigger. The Stens unit works both as plus and minus trigger. 3rd method is to use existing modern NEW STYLE Briggs Magnetron with embedded trigger type as only UNIVERSAL TRIGGER. The new China modules have this with a push terminal. Briggs sells this also now with their imprint in unit but higher priced. Mount as normal on engine mount with change as -- 2 plastic MM washers underneath core to insulate , and 2 plastic metric screws to tighten with gap set about .012" against flywheel. Put rubber boot plug wire to chassis ground, and obtain another insulated ignition cable to connect to metal of magneto under screw, and out to plug. You can then also test with 10kv diode. Units with universal trigger work at lower RPMS for starting, as like the very old style lawnmowers did .Circuits as these work better as when running extra energy with the sparking plug. And of cource you would have to verify zero ohms spark pl;ug, or exchange the internal resistor of Champian plug with #12 copper wire at top of plug.
Thanks Adam! I'm an old hand at coping with my back issues. 20 years I've been plagued by back issues lol. I laugh because you rarely hear me complain...it does no good! hehe Glad you enjoy the vids Brother! Cheers!! Zip~
Hey Zippo, I got the 3314 running! Yahoo! Got to re-do the fuel lines and get a new fuel tank among other thing, but I got it running. Thanks for all your videos and help, it nice to be able to ask someone who's the expert on these babies! I am posting a video now of it running for you to see. Beware, it's not a cream puff yet? 😀
In the words of the great Hannibal Smith.....I love it when a plan comes together! lol...I'll get over there to see the video soon. Got a couple videos to upload then I'll be on it. Congratulations on getting it running...now the fun part of dialing every little thing in comes into play. Take your time. Cheers!!! Zip~
Awesome, thank you. I will look for one, I did not want to give up on it yet. I have spark plug spark, but noticed no movement on the points and plunger. I hope that does that trick, I have not one chug yet.
Whoa! If you have spark at the plug, then the points and plunger are doing their job. Can't have one without the other. In other words, although you can't see the points closing, if they weren't you wouldn't have spark at the plug. Zip~
Thanks for the informative Zip. Where would you find the nova 2. Hope you feel better soon I know how it is I've dealt with herniated and leaking disks in my back for years
Fleabay and Amazon. Just type in Nova II or Stens ignition module. If it looks like the one I picture, you've got the right thing. The one I show is the Stens version. The Nova II says Nova II on it. Cheers! Zip~ p.s. On the mend, but it's always a slow process. Glad it happened now and not at the height of tree felling season!
Mr. Zippo I know you're busy and probably get people asking you questions all the time but I sure hope you read this. I don't know how else to get my question to comment on something. I have a old Allis Chalmers b1 late 50s early 60s and I cannot get any fire I put the nova-2 on it and got fire for a minute but it stopped my points are non-existent I didn't have them when I got the tractor I'm at my Wit's end and I don't want to scrap the old tractor but I don't know what else to do. Wish I knew how to send you a video of it. Hopefully I will hear back from you... Thanks !!
Daniel. What engine is in the tractor. Is it the original Model 19? If so, the Nova II will not work with that type of Magneto. Another option is a battery ignition, but that too requires points. If you've got the Model 19, email me. My email is in the descriptions of my later videos. I will then send you manuals for both your engine and tractor. Zip~
Zip, what does it mean if the points don't move at all with your finger on them on my 3314v? I still don't have it running, but it turns over and the plunger going to the points does not move either when hitting the key?
The lobe on the cam or the points plunger it self has worn out. There is a fix. Get a points eliminator (Search eBay for Nova II), and use it in place of the points. I've got a video showing how to install them. The alternative is removing the engine and replacing the points plunger, bushing and possibly the Cam as well. Zip~
Excuse me for not watching the entire video (I'm currently very short on time as of writing this comment) but where did you get the parts for the electric ignition? I'm building something from the ignition parts from a briggs I converted to steam, and using the spark plug for a cannon (as an ignition source) and am looking for electric ways of sparking it as I can't get the magnets off the flywheel of the engine.
Honestly, your best bet would be to use a Buzz box or an old Fairbanks Morse Ignitor. But if you're insistent on using a Magnetron, you simply need to duplicate the ignition system as designed. you can remove all of the cooling fins from the flywheel, use the crank shaft end as a mount and fabricate a carrier bearing and gear or pulley to mount to the crank shaft then use a NOVA II in place of the points and condenser to simplify the ignition source so that you won't have to find a place to locate the points or fabricate a way to open and close them. I hope this is helpful and gives you a direction to go in. Zip~
I'm not sure what motorcycle you are talking about John, but a magnetron is a separate system than the system that provides the spark to the engine. Two totally different set ups and voltage limits. Zip~
I have spark when I take out the plug and put it in the spark plug wire and touch the top of the motor when turning it over. I have not yet got a chug out of it and noticed when I look at the points and even put my finger over the points I feel no movement. Any ideas why it won't try to start ? Just rebuilt he carb, per your video you posted.
I've got lots of ideas as to what could be the problem, but it would take a week to explain every possibility and how to resolve it. Start with checking for compression and presence of fuel. Timing is another factor to consider. If the flywheel key is sheared the engine will not start. Worn valve seats causing valves to not fully close. A valve stuck open. Worn rings. Carburetor related. The list is as wide as it is long Michael. Start with the top two. Zip~
Zippo, plz help. 1973 16hp cast iron Briggs, no spark. replaced coil, points, cond, checked all I know to. Been working on this with another guy who should know but we are at a loss.
With everything replaced, I should ask if the new coil has a silver button between the two legs or not. If so, that isn't the correct coil for a points ignition system. Next, if the coil is the traditional points Magneto without the button, loosen the adjusting jam nut on the points and with spark plug connected to plug wire and laying on the head where it has a good ground, slowly turn the adjusting screw/nut for the point gap in both directions while watching the spark plug for spark. The factory setting of .020 is just a starting point and not the gospel setting. I have only a couple engines out of over 50 where the point gap is right at .020. Some are as close as .012 and others as wide as .030. Let the engine decide the point gap. Once you get spark, lock down the jam nut and check for spark again. Note: Often, the gap will change when tightening the jam nut because it stretches the screw. If you have a Magnetron coil with the silver button, disconnect the points all together with no connected wires at all touching the engine and spin the engine over. If the gap is set correctly between the flywheel and coil (thickness of a business card) and the polarity of the magnets are correct, you will have spark. Zip~
Good old Briggs, the engine of my childhood. Great video - thumbs up!
Thanks Journeyman! I'm addicted to these vintage engines. Just something very satisfying about watching them putt along after Decades of use. Cheers!! Zip~
There are 3 ways to change from regular negative ignition to positive ignition. With small battery draw, a cylinder type motorcycle coil can be used with accessory Stens ignition module. Just follow instruction sheet, and switch leads + and - . The magnetos and Magnetrons use the magnet energy from flywheel. The second method is to purchase the older style pre 1982 Magneto only, which is just a transformer. Make sure of small or regular size as 12HP engine. Mount upside down and add the Stens accessory trigger module with directions. Add high voltage diode with cathode band facing forward, and will prove Positive high volts output. The briggs brand trigger module can also be used , you have to file edges to get it to fit on metal core leg. Briggs regular Magnetrons will not work upside down because of the embedded Briggs brand trigger. The Stens unit works both as plus and minus trigger. 3rd method is to use existing modern NEW STYLE Briggs Magnetron with embedded trigger type as only UNIVERSAL TRIGGER. The new China modules have this with a push terminal. Briggs sells this also now with their imprint in unit but higher priced. Mount as normal on engine mount with change as -- 2 plastic MM washers underneath core to insulate , and 2 plastic metric screws to tighten with gap set about .012" against flywheel. Put rubber boot plug wire to chassis ground, and obtain another insulated ignition cable to connect to metal of magneto under screw, and out to plug. You can then also test with 10kv diode. Units with universal trigger work at lower RPMS for starting, as like the very old style lawnmowers did .Circuits as these work better as when running extra energy with the sparking plug. And of cource you would have to verify zero ohms spark pl;ug, or exchange the internal resistor of Champian plug with #12 copper wire at top of plug.
Feel better brother and keep up the great videos.
Thanks Adam! I'm an old hand at coping with my back issues. 20 years I've been plagued by back issues lol. I laugh because you rarely hear me complain...it does no good! hehe Glad you enjoy the vids Brother! Cheers!! Zip~
Hey Zippo, I got the 3314 running! Yahoo! Got to re-do the fuel lines and get a new fuel tank among other thing, but I got it running. Thanks for all your videos and help, it nice to be able to ask someone who's the expert on these babies! I am posting a video now of it running for you to see. Beware, it's not a cream puff yet? 😀
In the words of the great Hannibal Smith.....I love it when a plan comes together! lol...I'll get over there to see the video soon. Got a couple videos to upload then I'll be on it. Congratulations on getting it running...now the fun part of dialing every little thing in comes into play. Take your time. Cheers!!! Zip~
Very cool info thanks!
Awesome, thank you. I will look for one, I did not want to give up on it yet. I have spark plug spark, but noticed no movement on the points and plunger. I hope that does that trick, I have not one chug yet.
Whoa! If you have spark at the plug, then the points and plunger are doing their job. Can't have one without the other. In other words, although you can't see the points closing, if they weren't you wouldn't have spark at the plug. Zip~
Hey Zip, looking for a video on converting a B&S 16 HP to electronic ignition. On a 73 Monkey Wards
ruclips.net/video/t3RI05TUSVs/видео.html
nice video, and thanks for the info.
Thanks for the informative Zip. Where would you find the nova 2. Hope you feel better soon I know how it is I've dealt with herniated and leaking disks in my back for years
Fleabay and Amazon. Just type in Nova II or Stens ignition module. If it looks like the one I picture, you've got the right thing. The one I show is the Stens version. The Nova II says Nova II on it. Cheers! Zip~ p.s. On the mend, but it's always a slow process. Glad it happened now and not at the height of tree felling season!
Mr. Zippo I know you're busy and probably get people asking you questions all the time but I sure hope you read this. I don't know how else to get my question to comment on something. I have a old Allis Chalmers b1 late 50s early 60s and I cannot get any fire I put the nova-2 on it and got fire for a minute but it stopped my points are non-existent I didn't have them when I got the tractor I'm at my Wit's end and I don't want to scrap the old tractor but I don't know what else to do. Wish I knew how to send you a video of it. Hopefully I will hear back from you... Thanks !!
Daniel. What engine is in the tractor. Is it the original Model 19? If so, the Nova II will not work with that type of Magneto. Another option is a battery ignition, but that too requires points. If you've got the Model 19, email me. My email is in the descriptions of my later videos. I will then send you manuals for both your engine and tractor. Zip~
Zip, what does it mean if the points don't move at all with your finger on them on my 3314v? I still don't have it running, but it turns over and the plunger going to the points does not move either when hitting the key?
The lobe on the cam or the points plunger it self has worn out. There is a fix. Get a points eliminator (Search eBay for Nova II), and use it in place of the points. I've got a video showing how to install them. The alternative is removing the engine and replacing the points plunger, bushing and possibly the Cam as well. Zip~
Excuse me for not watching the entire video (I'm currently very short on time as of writing this comment) but where did you get the parts for the electric ignition? I'm building something from the ignition parts from a briggs I converted to steam, and using the spark plug for a cannon (as an ignition source) and am looking for electric ways of sparking it as I can't get the magnets off the flywheel of the engine.
Honestly, your best bet would be to use a Buzz box or an old Fairbanks Morse Ignitor. But if you're insistent on using a Magnetron, you simply need to duplicate the ignition system as designed. you can remove all of the cooling fins from the flywheel, use the crank shaft end as a mount and fabricate a carrier bearing and gear or pulley to mount to the crank shaft then use a NOVA II in place of the points and condenser to simplify the ignition source so that you won't have to find a place to locate the points or fabricate a way to open and close them. I hope this is helpful and gives you a direction to go in. Zip~
Zippo, how can a Magnatron coil power both the spark plug and charge a motorcycle battery?
I'm not sure what motorcycle you are talking about John, but a magnetron is a separate system than the system that provides the spark to the engine. Two totally different set ups and voltage limits. Zip~
I have spark when I take out the plug and put it in the spark plug wire and touch the top of the motor when turning it over. I have not yet got a chug out of it and noticed when I look at the points and even put my finger over the points I feel no movement. Any ideas why it won't try to start ? Just rebuilt he carb, per your video you posted.
I've got lots of ideas as to what could be the problem, but it would take a week to explain every possibility and how to resolve it. Start with checking for compression and presence of fuel. Timing is another factor to consider. If the flywheel key is sheared the engine will not start. Worn valve seats causing valves to not fully close. A valve stuck open. Worn rings. Carburetor related. The list is as wide as it is long Michael. Start with the top two. Zip~
Can you use the module you showed in this video for battery ignition also?
Unfortunately, no you cannot Stevie. Zip~
Zippo, plz help. 1973 16hp cast iron Briggs, no spark. replaced coil, points, cond, checked all I know to. Been working on this with another guy who should know but we are at a loss.
With everything replaced, I should ask if the new coil has a silver button between the two legs or not. If so, that isn't the correct coil for a points ignition system. Next, if the coil is the traditional points Magneto without the button, loosen the adjusting jam nut on the points and with spark plug connected to plug wire and laying on the head where it has a good ground, slowly turn the adjusting screw/nut for the point gap in both directions while watching the spark plug for spark. The factory setting of .020 is just a starting point and not the gospel setting. I have only a couple engines out of over 50 where the point gap is right at .020. Some are as close as .012 and others as wide as .030. Let the engine decide the point gap. Once you get spark, lock down the jam nut and check for spark again. Note: Often, the gap will change when tightening the jam nut because it stretches the screw. If you have a Magnetron coil with the silver button, disconnect the points all together with no connected wires at all touching the engine and spin the engine over. If the gap is set correctly between the flywheel and coil (thickness of a business card) and the polarity of the magnets are correct, you will have spark. Zip~
can you use that on a 1975 Tecumseh H50?
+Josh Kilen Any engine with points can benefit from the points eliminator.