Good information. Myself the need depends on the engine design and expected output. I have built only one engine with new caps, a Buick Nailhead with so much walk in the caps they would literally fall out of the block. On the other hand I've built turbo LS's with the stock cross bolted caps pushing stupid amounts of HP and rpm without a problem. IMHO it comes down to the rarity of the block, same thing with liners.
If I was planning on making more power than 1000hp I would consider an aftermarket block. Ive made 550hp with a single turbo 361 big block with a mild cam. A stroked 383 should get me to 1000 without too much trouble
Unfortunately studs have a greater amount of friction so they need to have a greater amount of torque applied to get to the same amount of clamping force that is produced by the bolts at a lower amount of torque.
I'm not sure about the applied clamping force perse but I did do a test using the main bearing clearance and checked clearance at 75, 90 and 110ftlbs of torque on the fasteners. Surprisingly, the bolts and studs followed the same clearance changes using the ARP lube. If the clearance reads abouy the same between the two, I assume the clamping forces should be similar as well but even if not, it might not be as much of a detriment as we might think.
@@NightWrencher It probably doesn't make much difference and the number of times the bolt or stud has been tightened/how polished the surfaces of the threads have become probably makes a greater difference.
Correct, if you are reusing the stock caps and not planning on line boring, either use the stock bolts or install aftermarket studs/bolts to the stock spec.
@Subaruby34 I see what you mean. Some companies sell forged caps but since you have to machine everything the same way, the extra cost of billet doesnt really affect things too much and its way stronger
1,000hp!!!!! Holy Moly!!!!!!! Can't wait to see that build!!!! Excellent information!!!!! I'm so happy I did my billet 4 bolt mains years ago when I did.
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Nice build NightWrencher!
I like the steel caps and studs.👍
I just subscribed to your channel.
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thanks ed! Good to see you on this channel also 👍
Good Stuff Sir!
Thank you! I gotta a lot of work to do to catch up to you guys!
Good information. Myself the need depends on the engine design and expected output. I have built only one engine with new caps, a Buick Nailhead with so much walk in the caps they would literally fall out of the block. On the other hand I've built turbo LS's with the stock cross bolted caps pushing stupid amounts of HP and rpm without a problem. IMHO it comes down to the rarity of the block, same thing with liners.
Good point! For me, if it was a really rare engine, I would be scared to push it. If it breaks, that means I have to buy another one 🤣
I would want a new Callies/Energy block from a twin-turbo 440 build. It's a $6k investment, 4x over your upgrade to the stock production block.
If I was planning on making more power than 1000hp I would consider an aftermarket block. Ive made 550hp with a single turbo 361 big block with a mild cam. A stroked 383 should get me to 1000 without too much trouble
Two turbos? Nice.
You're not allowed to watch this 😡
@@NightWrencher Too late. I see the secret weapon you’re working on Twin Turbo Wrencher.
Unfortunately studs have a greater amount of friction so they need to have a greater amount of torque applied to get to the same amount of clamping force that is produced by the bolts at a lower amount of torque.
I'm not sure about the applied clamping force perse but I did do a test using the main bearing clearance and checked clearance at 75, 90 and 110ftlbs of torque on the fasteners. Surprisingly, the bolts and studs followed the same clearance changes using the ARP lube. If the clearance reads abouy the same between the two, I assume the clamping forces should be similar as well but even if not, it might not be as much of a detriment as we might think.
@@NightWrencher It probably doesn't make much difference and the number of times the bolt or stud has been tightened/how polished the surfaces of the threads have become probably makes a greater difference.
Nice work. Wick question, if your re-using your cast mains and not line boring don't fit main studs or higher torque main bolts. Thanks.
Correct, if you are reusing the stock caps and not planning on line boring, either use the stock bolts or install aftermarket studs/bolts to the stock spec.
👍💪
👊💪
What about forged mains? Is that not a thing?
Like forged main journals? Or what do you mean?
@@NightWrencher you said cast and billet so I assume forged maincaps dont exist? would forged not be a good cost/reliabilty compromise between the 2?
@Subaruby34 I see what you mean. Some companies sell forged caps but since you have to machine everything the same way, the extra cost of billet doesnt really affect things too much and its way stronger
👀
Get those little eyeballs out of here. You're not supposed to watch this 😡
1,000hp!!!!! Holy Moly!!!!!!! Can't wait to see that build!!!! Excellent information!!!!! I'm so happy I did my billet 4 bolt mains years ago when I did.
The Nova and Birds are in trouble!!!!!
@@PontiacRaysGarage another one of you guys scooping out my secret build 😂
@@NightWrencher I take notes on everyone... 😆 🤣