I sure did subscribe. Thanks for reminder. I only surfed a couple times in Hawaii as a kid. Almost drowned body surfing @twinlakes Beach in Santa Cruz. Lol So I'm not a strong swimmer, but I certainly enjoy watching the sport. I watch the half moon bay Mavericks every chance I get. Not able to watch as close in person since the "sneaky" wave incident 2010.
67 duck dives until He made it to the line up. Never went back to rest those arms for a moment. Legend. That's determination and a good state of mind and health. All my respect to this warrior.
@@tyson9419 Yeah they not the easiest the duck dive. Makes me wonder if bodyboards are easier to get out under these conditions. Cause you use your legs which almost never get tired...
No. At a certain point you repeat to yourself that you are not going to let the ocean beat you. You are going to win. And there is a tiny feeling of ecstasy when you reach the smooth water of the outside.
Legendary!! Quicksilver should do a Hardest Paddle of the Winter award. Like the commenter below said, that place is more about the paddle than the ride. Heavy!!
This reminded me of a time I paddled out at "Garbage" in San Diego, during winter of 2016. That was the year huge storms were battering central and northern CA, and sending huge swells to southern CA. It was about a double overhead day, and I spent a long time trying to paddle out, when I received a two-wave hold down. I was barely able to hold my breath through the second hold-down, and when I came up, gave my last to paddle through the next wave to make it out. As a 59-yr-old at the time, I don't think I would have survived a third hold-down! I stayed out about two hours. I never caught a wave. I paddled in. Ocean 1, me 0.
Yup,...you get to a certain age, and you just don't have that same stamina anymore. It can become pretty darn dangerous for us oldies if we get caught out in that crap and begin to get behind on our breathing. Been there, done that. Them waves don't take breaks.
@@MacNmey Hell I just moved back to the ocean after 20 years landlocked at 49 years old. Last week I thought I'd get back into practice on a mushy 6 foot day , waves coming every 4 seconds and no pause between sets. After a 10 minute paddle out and I don't even know how many turtles on a minimal I thought I was bloody dead. Then the leash caught round my toe and broke both itself and my toe. Limped out to my wife to who I had assured surfing wasn't dangerous who was thinking I had a heart attack. Spent 4 days just going 'ow.' when I moved anything. I'm going back this weekend.
@@djrv3n423 Is that the Jetty off Marine St where the sandbar washed out and left rock reef behind? Well anyway our friends figured out the best way to enjoy those waves on a bad day while it still had a sandbar and when nobody got in the water. You didn't catch the waves the waves caught you, so fun like a literal waterslide over the shore break falls. If you can't surf it, body surf it, or boogy board it!
Same. I'm too old and out of shape to even contemplate waves like this anymore, but the one time I hit up Ocean Beach when it had size I just couldn't make it out. Just wave after wave after wave. I've been washed in before and had to start over, but never just straight up denied. Respect to anyone who rides that place at size.
By my count that was 73 frigid ice cream headache duck dives before shoulder hopping a mush burger. Having spent a lot of time there I can tell you this is not uncommon. Respect to this surfer!
Never minded catching waves alone but it’s so much easier and enjoyable paddling out with your bros. The competitive nature of it just pushes you to make it out . Paddling out solo and in those conditions is a whole different mindset. My arms and shoulders ached just watching this absolute unit. Even felt my calf cramping up a few times. 😂
I use to live at 48th and Pacheco and remember 45min paddle outs were the norm on big winter days. Learned to gauge the surf just by looking at the conditions to determine risk vs reward. Lot of good surfers at Ocean beach, had some of the most epic waves of my life there...
Courage & tenacity on a day when there's no one in the bleachers. Anyone who's been at this game long enough understands what this individual is going through. Kudos to him for his never say die attitude.
@@nevwild thanks! I need to build up my quiver. Tired of watching the older guys slide into PERFECT waves while I’m stuck on a 6’0! I will grab a 6’5. Then when the time comes a 7’0. I know i don’t want the 15+ just yet!
This reminds me of a scene described in barbarian days by william finnegan. He is living in SF at that time and Mark Renneker, a friend of his, is paddling out at an especially stormy day, also on Ocean Beach i think it was. This really visualizes the struggle of paddling out on those huge days even more and just further made me respect all of the people daring to paddle out on such days
Paddled out there many times, but never in waves like that. I wouldn't have even tried in those conditions. That was amazing. High speed really gave it the impact it needed.
thanks for posting this! I get rattled getting caught inside for 10-15 min at Ocean Beach. Which happens probably every surf regardless of the size... I need to remember this for inspiration.
Twice I've paddled for 20 mins (not here and not that big) got out the back and got caught inside by a bomb set snapped my board and leg rope and had to swim in without getting a single wave. I was worried this vid would be the same. So stoked he got one!
Huge props to the commitment and tenacity. OB was no joke on Thanksgiving. Duly impressed that he never gave up, made it out, and caught a wave. Much respect!
I don’t know why, but even days that seem pretty mellow can be absolutely punishing for me at OB. Huge props and respect to this guy. Thanks for sharing this video.
When i feel ready for the nursing home…when i have difficulty getting up and standing..in other words,on days like today…what a joy it is to watch thisliving testimony to the human will to “seek to strive and not to yield” . Dammit..i admire him , what a hero!!
Being an OB surfer made me realize two things. 1) OB makes you a powerful paddler, and 2) I don't even want to make to it the lineup on days like this. Nicely done lone surfer.
haha... oh man, this was my home break for 2 years. seriously the paddle out is death. still surfed almost daily and often alone in the rain and wind. the place was perfect training for my next home break that followed... north shore oahu.
AND Big, BIG props to the camera man - NorCal Surfer - for hanging in all morning to bring all of us this act of heroism. Passing through S.F. I happened to hook up a sweet B and B - 2048 Sloat Boulevard and by some cosmic coincidence was reading William Finnegan's brilliant book "Barbarian Days - A Surfing Life". William splendidly describes his considerable battles there. Got to spend a few hours watching the monster surf. So glad I live on Maui. Don't think I could have ever have measured up to that maelstrom.
DLStarbuck didn’t Finnegan in his book talk about an short way out, or is that another break up there. Something about a jetty and diving off at the end and taking a very long paddle to that break? Either way, brutal.
Hardest paddle I ever had was OB, also the closest I have come to drowning. Sucks to think you’re finally out and the small pack that’s out all lay down and start paddling outside because something is coming, a washing machine freight train that hits like a Mike Tyson sized whale. Feeling like an ant is humbling.
One time in about 1991 I paddled for two hours non-stop to get out.. When I finally got out I was 3 miles north up the beach... A coast guard zodiac came along and asked me if I okay, they had two surfers on board that had gotten sucked around the cliff house north.. I gave them the thumbs up and yelled "no thanks!" OB is Pay to Play!
Great post! Of all the select footage we see of the perfect waves, rides etc. to recognize the amount of dedication, perseverance and mental fortitude required to "play" in the ocean is the part of the sport seldom described. No slight to all the electo gadgets that we invent to get more waves or survive in huge surf the paddles have a unique character associated with the doers.
We've all been there, arms burning, puffing like a steam train, and seeing yet another set coming at you. This guy's a legend, digging in like a man, and getting through it all. Huey was smiling down on you, mate, and he'll grant you many primo waves for your dedication.
Well I imagine paddling out by yourself on a day like this at Ocean Beach would be difficult with giant steel balls, Lol! I used to sit here for hours and just chill. Great memories. Awesome video.
Brings back many chilling memories! Soooo many 30-45 minute paddle outs in brain numbing water with plenty of rips. Then the reward of maybe 10 seconds riding that freight train. Don’t miss it one bit! Love these videos though! San Francisco’s Ocean Beach will test the faithful!
I’m watching this in my truck on the beach right now after I just got owned by Mother Nature on a 6 foot clean day with a break 1/2 the distance, I’m not feelin great haha. This man is an animal nothing but respect for everyone able to get out on those big days and nothing but respect for the ocean.
I felt that way at latigo canyon one day in 10- 15 foot surf. Paddled out for a half hour. Got rejected. Paddled out again for 1/2 hour. Made it out. Pretty sure I was going to die that day.
Thank you for watching! 🤙 Consider subscribing to watch more NorCal surfing!
I sure did subscribe. Thanks for reminder. I only surfed a couple times in Hawaii as a kid. Almost drowned body surfing @twinlakes Beach in Santa Cruz. Lol So I'm not a strong swimmer, but I certainly enjoy watching the sport.
I watch the half moon bay Mavericks every chance I get. Not able to watch as close in person since the "sneaky"
wave incident 2010.
He kept saying to himself "the hardest day paddling out is still better than the best day at work!"
That right there must be a life motto to us all.
The worst day at the golf course is better than the best day at The office The original joke
This savage was probably chairing a zoom meeting during the paddle out.
Couldn't have said it better mate 🤙🏽😎
Fuck that, I don't hate my work that much.
67 duck dives until He made it to the line up. Never went back to rest those arms for a moment. Legend. That's determination and a good state of mind and health. All my respect to this warrior.
I counted 72 but...yeah, this is INSANE
It would be worse to go back in and rest
I wondered if someone counted. Does the guy not know how to duck dive ?
@@LeginMan probably an 8 foot gun.
@@tyson9419 Yeah they not the easiest the duck dive. Makes me wonder if bodyboards are easier to get out under these conditions. Cause you use your legs which almost never get tired...
This is how my parents used to get to school.
😂 gnarly
By 11am I would have just said to myself “well you got a good 20 minutes worth of exercise” and caught the whitewater back to shore.
I think most would :-)
White wash
@@botxai1341 same thing bruv
No. At a certain point you repeat to yourself that you are not going to let the ocean beat you. You are going to win. And there is a tiny feeling of ecstasy when you reach the smooth water of the outside.
This is a man on a whole new level he deserves so much respect
No doubt
What is this MAN'S name
The only person I've ever seen in the category (barely) of the guy from
the documentary, "The Man who hiked the Amazon".
Without a doubt, this guy is an aquanimal. Utmost respect.
@@WayneLynch69 You're going to like the book "River of Doubt"
His shoulders must be burning up!! What a savage! And then still catch a wave, must have felt like the biggest accomplishment, hats off to him!
He ended up with a handful of even bigger and better waves. No idea how he does it but hats def off
@@NorCalSurfer hope that footage is coming soon
@@NorCalSurfer Slow and steady and don't burn yourself out.
When I saw him ride I wanted to hug him ))
This be me, when it's 4 - 6 at my local beachy.
Definitely lol
Agree on that one! And there's nothing like that feeling once you make it out to the lineup after such a battle.
I feel you. Then when you finally go for a wave you’re greeted by a whole set on the head after you kick out.
True
Me too 😂
There's a reason why no one else was out that day. He just showed us all why.
Right, what a waste of time
I mean he didnt have to shoulder hop a terrible wave but yeah, that's not worth it with out ski assist.
@@TheOne-op4do he did prove to everyone ese he could do it though, and that he can paddle out in anything easier than this
Bc everyone else was smarter and hit the break just north of here which has a little channel for easy paddling out.....
@@TheOne-op4do not a waste of time, a workout, at least that's how I always looked at it. And much more fun than being in a gym.
This guy is like the David Goggins of paddle outs.
Legendary!! Quicksilver should do a Hardest Paddle of the Winter award. Like the commenter below said, that place is more about the paddle than the ride. Heavy!!
Haha great idea!
Relentless Mother Nature..I’ve done this in the past so many times on even smaller days..an absolute beating . One wave session
You nailed it..place is quite deceiving even when it looks small. Can't imagine what some of those bigger ones felt like on the head
This reminded me of a time I paddled out at "Garbage" in San Diego, during winter of 2016. That was the year huge storms were battering central and northern CA, and sending huge swells to southern CA. It was about a double overhead day, and I spent a long time trying to paddle out, when I received a two-wave hold down. I was barely able to hold my breath through the second hold-down, and when I came up, gave my last to paddle through the next wave to make it out. As a 59-yr-old at the time, I don't think I would have survived a third hold-down! I stayed out about two hours. I never caught a wave. I paddled in. Ocean 1, me 0.
The spot in Point Loma?
Yeh the channel just closes when it’s bigger, huge reward but shitty to paddle out in
Yup,...you get to a certain age, and you just don't have that same stamina anymore. It can become pretty darn dangerous for us oldies if we get caught out in that crap and begin to get behind on our breathing. Been there, done that. Them waves don't take breaks.
@@MacNmey Hell I just moved back to the ocean after 20 years landlocked at 49 years old. Last week I thought I'd get back into practice on a mushy 6 foot day , waves coming every 4 seconds and no pause between sets. After a 10 minute paddle out and I don't even know how many turtles on a minimal I thought I was bloody dead. Then the leash caught round my toe and broke both itself and my toe. Limped out to my wife to who I had assured surfing wasn't dangerous who was thinking I had a heart attack.
Spent 4 days just going 'ow.' when I moved anything.
I'm going back this weekend.
@@djrv3n423 Is that the Jetty off Marine St where the sandbar washed out and left rock reef behind? Well anyway our friends figured out the best way to enjoy those waves on a bad day while it still had a sandbar and when nobody got in the water. You didn't catch the waves the waves caught you, so fun like a literal waterslide over the shore break falls. If you can't surf it, body surf it, or boogy board it!
45 min of wrestling waves, what a training. That's a strong man, mentally and physically.
He definitely has some surfing / ocean skills!
I lived there 10 years. An hour to get outside was not unusual on DOH days.
Ocean Beach is the only place I ever didn't make it to the outside. It happened once, and I'll never forget it. The dude in this vid is a savage.
SAVAGE
Same. I'm too old and out of shape to even contemplate waves like this anymore, but the one time I hit up Ocean Beach when it had size I just couldn't make it out. Just wave after wave after wave. I've been washed in before and had to start over, but never just straight up denied. Respect to anyone who rides that place at size.
I've gotten denied up in Humboldt a few times too.
Yeah right. Like "I swear this has never happened to me before"
Is there not anywhere near to paddle out in calmer water and paddle across behind the sets?
By my count that was 73 frigid ice cream headache duck dives before shoulder hopping a mush burger. Having spent a lot of time there I can tell you this is not uncommon. Respect to this surfer!
It’s been a long time since I was out there or in water that cold. Just remembering feeling nauseous from the ice cream headaches
He probably saw the dude with the camera and was like “Ah dang..... this will end up on RUclips. Now I HAVE to get a wave!”
🤣🤣🤣
Almost an hour paddle out in a 4/3 while getting mowed down by bombs... brutal!!!
The 4/3...a marshmellowy scorching hot pee sack in which you get a numb face and salt water drip.
Never minded catching waves alone but it’s so much easier and enjoyable paddling out with your bros. The competitive nature of it just pushes you to make it out . Paddling out solo and in those conditions is a whole different mindset. My arms and shoulders ached just watching this absolute unit. Even felt my calf cramping up a few times. 😂
even felt my calf cramping up a few times hahahah
I use to live at 48th and Pacheco and remember 45min paddle outs were the norm on big winter days. Learned to gauge the surf just by looking at the conditions to determine risk vs reward. Lot of good surfers at Ocean beach, had some of the most epic waves of my life there...
what a freaking alpha legend.... also props to the person who filmed it.
rare you get to see a proper paddle out on a pumping day!!
🤙🤙🤙
Courage & tenacity on a day when there's no one in the bleachers. Anyone who's been at this game long enough understands what this individual is going through. Kudos to him for his never say die attitude.
The most amazing exhibit of strength, endurance and persistence I have ever seen.
That makes two of us!!
I’m there Friday. I didn’t think anyone would paddle out today! Guy has some serious balls!
Yeah man, I surfed Noriega yesterday it was firing
@@MrOblocal13 what board are you riding? I am new to the area. My 6’0 just doesn’t work in OB. 6’6”? I guess for Thursday even bigger?! A gun.
6’5” for inner bar days.
7’0” for faces up to 12’.
8’4” for big outer bar days.
@@nevwild thanks! I need to build up my quiver. Tired of watching the older guys slide into PERFECT waves while I’m stuck on a 6’0! I will grab a 6’5. Then when the time comes a 7’0. I know i don’t want the 15+ just yet!
@@SurferTy I have a 7'0 blade and a then an 8'9 with some girth
“Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!”
This reminds me of a scene described in barbarian days by william finnegan. He is living in SF at that time and Mark Renneker, a friend of his, is paddling out at an especially stormy day, also on Ocean Beach i think it was. This really visualizes the struggle of paddling out on those huge days even more and just further made me respect all of the people daring to paddle out on such days
Also Barbarian Days is probably the best book about surfing go read it
www.newyorker.com/magazine/1992/08/24/playing-docs-games-part-one for a taster
Best book! I agree Henry!
It's a great book. I think the bit about Ocean Beach is probably the best bit. The stuff about being a kid in Hawaii is pretty damn great too.
A Classic crew out at OB, everyone looked out for each other, no matter what.
That’s the reality of OB paddle outs. Sometimes you make it and sometimes you don’t! Respect ✊🏽
Give that man a medal!
Seriously the determination he had was something else. I thought he was coming in at least twice
This guy is a hero !!! Wtf ! Navy seal ? Meth assisted ? I needs to know more about someone who’s prepared for a 45 minute paddle out in 15ft surf !
He should get an Olympic gold medal for something...swimming, wrestling, marathon...something.
This guy must have the Avenger Ironman Arc Reactor in his chest. Huge resilience points!
Paddled out there many times, but never in waves like that. I wouldn't have even tried in those conditions. That was amazing. High speed really gave it the impact it needed.
Props to him. Damn he was persistent and had no fear. I was exhausted just watching this.
My stomach hurts after watching that. I've been to that beach on a huge day and wondered how the surfers got out. Brute force and perseverance.
Definitely a marathon and not a sprint
Incredible desire! Soul Surfers rule in my book. Not about being seen but living in your passions. 😎
And in my book too! Soul surfers show us how we all should be living
thanks for posting this! I get rattled getting caught inside for 10-15 min at Ocean Beach. Which happens probably every surf regardless of the size... I need to remember this for inspiration.
Twice I've paddled for 20 mins (not here and not that big) got out the back and got caught inside by a bomb set snapped my board and leg rope and had to swim in without getting a single wave. I was worried this vid would be the same. So stoked he got one!
Oh I know that exact feeling! He ended up getting more than one after this if you can believe that
Huge props to the commitment and tenacity. OB was no joke on Thanksgiving. Duly impressed that he never gave up, made it out, and caught a wave. Much respect!
Well said!
Surfer: Damn..everybody is on the beach watching...I gotta make it out
OB is where some finally learn no means no! This guy is a beast!
I don't think no is in this beast's vocabulary
I don’t know why, but even days that seem pretty mellow can be absolutely punishing for me at OB. Huge props and respect to this guy. Thanks for sharing this video.
When i feel ready for the nursing home…when i have difficulty getting up and standing..in other words,on days like today…what a joy it is to watch thisliving testimony to the human will to “seek to strive and not to yield” . Dammit..i admire him , what a hero!!
Being an OB surfer made me realize two things. 1) OB makes you a powerful paddler, and 2) I don't even want to make to it the lineup on days like this. Nicely done lone surfer.
Until you've surfed at OB you have no idea how impressive this is.
Somebody is going to need a serious shoulder/back massage when he gets home
60 Minutes needs to find this guy and make a documentary about him. This is the unsung American hero.
100%!
haha... oh man, this was my home break for 2 years. seriously the paddle out is death. still surfed almost daily and often alone in the rain and wind. the place was perfect training for my next home break that followed... north shore oahu.
pretty standard paddle for a big day at OB. OB is more a "how was the paddle" than "how were the waves" place.
Haha that sounds accurate!
Truth, Jeff Kaplan
COLD FACT!
Been there and done that in hurricane swells in Florida. Much respect for making it out and not quitting ( which I have done on numerous occasions.)
Allegory of a life well-lived, represented here in three minutes, forty seven seconds
Well said!
the struggle is real!
My arms began to hurt watching this. If you surf you know those days. Props. Hope he eventually caught a great wave.
AND Big, BIG props to the camera man - NorCal Surfer - for hanging in all morning to bring all of us this act of heroism. Passing through S.F. I happened to hook up a sweet B and B - 2048 Sloat Boulevard and by some cosmic coincidence was reading William Finnegan's brilliant book "Barbarian Days - A Surfing Life". William splendidly describes his considerable battles there. Got to spend a few hours watching the monster surf. So glad I live on Maui. Don't think I could have ever have measured up to that maelstrom.
DLStarbuck didn’t Finnegan in his book talk about an short way out, or is that another break up there. Something about a jetty and diving off at the end and taking a very long paddle to that break? Either way, brutal.
The true spirit of a surfer is unbreakable!
100%!!!
Hardest paddle I ever had was OB, also the closest I have come to drowning. Sucks to think you’re finally out and the small pack that’s out all lay down and start paddling outside because something is coming, a washing machine freight train that hits like a Mike Tyson sized whale. Feeling like an ant is humbling.
This was how I felt paddling out at chest high OB...
Man I’m beat just watching this guy. Hats off to him !
One time in about 1991 I paddled for two hours non-stop to get out.. When I finally got out I was 3 miles north up the beach... A coast guard zodiac came along and asked me if I okay, they had two surfers on board that had gotten sucked around the cliff house north.. I gave them the thumbs up and yelled "no thanks!" OB is Pay to Play!
Gnarly!
Big respect. Dude took a serious beating and just kept going. I know I wouldn't make it 🙌
Holy shiii. This is some next level commitment and courage mad respect. And especially being there all by himself like damn
for SURE!
That guy is more tenacious than my dog. Must be a badass person.
Great post! Of all the select footage we see of the perfect waves, rides etc. to recognize the amount of dedication, perseverance and mental fortitude required to "play" in the ocean is the part of the sport seldom described. No slight to all the electo gadgets that we invent to get more waves or survive in huge surf the paddles have a unique character associated with the doers.
Totally agree!
That guy has earned my respect forever. Whoever you are, that was impressive mate!
I'll remember seeing this the next time I'm cursing at the waves on Lake MI on my paddle out
ONLY a surfer knows that feeling 🌐🌈
Respect to his tenacity 🤟💎
This is gives me courage for when it is way smaller than that out there and I am struggling. Thats dedication!
Legend has it he is still paddling out.
Different type of dude right there. Special!
I would have raised the White flag and performed the "Walk of Shame" after about 15 minutes of that thrashing.
Me too Guy
I've def been there
Hah we've all been there!
Balls of steel. Much respect to you sir! This definitely looks like a good winter swell.
💯
We've all been there, arms burning, puffing like a steam train, and seeing yet another set coming at you.
This guy's a legend, digging in like a man, and getting through it all.
Huey was smiling down on you, mate, and he'll grant you many primo waves for your dedication.
People that sit in the gym on a bike that goes nowhere be like I feel you bro hahaha
dude got his workout in for the day
Well I imagine paddling out by yourself on a day like this at Ocean Beach would be difficult with giant steel balls, Lol! I used to sit here for hours and just chill. Great memories. Awesome video.
Brings back many chilling memories! Soooo many 30-45 minute paddle outs in brain numbing water with plenty of rips. Then the reward of maybe 10 seconds riding that freight train. Don’t miss it one bit! Love these videos though!
San Francisco’s Ocean Beach will test the faithful!
Love that!
That is determination! Congratulations to him.
The speed up really shows how epic of a battle that was.
Happy to hear you appreciate that!
Mad respect bro. Go get what you want!!🤙🏼
The sped up sounds of the waves were very easily the most relaxing thing I’ve ever heard
Will try to do more of that then , thanks for the feedback 🤙
I’m watching this in my truck on the beach right now after I just got owned by Mother Nature on a 6 foot clean day with a break 1/2 the distance, I’m not feelin great haha. This man is an animal nothing but respect for everyone able to get out on those big days and nothing but respect for the ocean.
True that!
i shldve just watched this instead of wasting 3 hrs watching tom hanks in castaway. lmao
This man deserves a jetski for this accomplishment 👏
This is the greatest thing I’ve ever seen.
Looks like drowning water....That lad should be the solo man he's a beast
I felt that way at latigo canyon one day in 10- 15 foot surf.
Paddled out for a half hour.
Got rejected.
Paddled out again for 1/2 hour.
Made it out.
Pretty sure I was going to die that day.
i grew up surfing point dume, always wondered about latigo. Does it get good?
Rumors are saying that he’s still paddling and he’s going for the 2,554 duckdive 🥶🥶🥶
This is a great vid showing what it takes to get out there on big days. The guy wanted it!
Feel like i can never have excuse again when waves are 5-8 ft and i'm struggling to get out ha
THIS IS HILARIOUS!
Wow, that is brutal and some serious dedication. Props
Ugh this gives me anxiety. That man is a champion
Anonymous hero. Sometimes getting out there's the hardest part.
The Hero we all needed
thx. pure. i watch it for sleeping or relaxation. no music is great, just the oceans sounds.
He finally drifted into the rip.
One thing I've learned in all of my years of surfing - if there are zero people out, there's a very good reason why.
Definitely.😂
I almost drowned just watching this from my couch! Absolute Animal!
🤣
Legend says he's still out there...
Wow, dedicated, wish I could paddle like that!
Hell-man. Respect!
Legend! I was trying to count all his duck dives, stopped counting after 60, respect!
Glad to see Doc is still surfing
Haha! Might be his son