please do not put hands or finders where diesel is coming out of pump fuel is under 3000 pound presure will cut skin as will trying to check hyd leak be safe saw you do it on last show use head and think
allso this has been siting long time put fuel line right into pump from can then you know it is getting fuel did not see you check line in tank could have been problem to start with mtc
One reason I like your videos besides content is unlike other videos we aren’t looking at the back of your head or someplace else you go out of your way to get us a good view. Great job
Take a wire from the positive on the battery to the fuel solenoid and you should hear it click. If it clicks it’s open so leave that wire on there and start it up! The tech’s theory is that the starter is taking to much juice to spin it over which is drawing to many volts and taking it away from the solenoid. The solenoid needs a minimum of 10v to open but they are suppose to have 12v when running. If that valve clicks it’s open
I’m a John Deere tech I work on these all the time if the ecu you are using is working on the machine you took it from and has a foot or dial throttle it should work for this machine the one thing that needs to be looked at is the crank sensor if the ecu does not see engine speed it will never start, don’t worry about the throttle code that is just to set the hand throttle in the backhoe levers, I have read a lot of the comments if you have already put 12 volts to the injection pump you will need to remove and repair or replace the pump you would have cooked the solenoid in the pump the ecu sends lower voltage to the pump and that is how it controls engine speed hope this helps
This is why I love, and hold onto old iron. I watched you guys get a 70 year old crawler going faster than this 2006 over engineered machine with its computers. lol Love your channel and your positive and funny attitude. The world needs more people with this attitude right now. Stay safe, and god bless!
Hey Hank! Don’t be discouraged! You gave it a fair fighting chance! I enjoyed watching the series and I’m sure others did too! I’m reading other comments and you got a lot of good advice from people as well on other alternatives. I agree too that the starter is fine it’s deff a fuel delivery problem! Keep up the good work!
Seems like its starving for fuel. The starter may send a 12 V signal to the fuel shut off switch to Open the fuel. Pull out the fuel shut off switch ...... test it it may be stuck. Just on top of the pump with the black and white wires. Check the fuel line to the tank.... by-pass the tank use a hose and run it off a small fuel can ....... Look for a split line, leaky fitting, clogged strainer in the tank.....Fuel injection drive gear. Pull all four pressure lines off the pump and crank it .... If you don't get a shower there's a fuel delivery problem from there back to the tank.....
@@HamiltonvilleFarm The old PT pumps on a Cummins had a screw on the shutoff that you could run it for it to run without power. Bet the 310 don't EVEN have one. Rats!
A few things that I would habe tried that I am not sure you have. Did you blow out the line from the lift pump to the fuel Tank? A dedicated fuel supply to the lift pump? Definitely use a dedicated battery for the fuel solenoid. As it sounds like your starter windings have deteriorated causing a very large power draw. That is why your voltage is dropping below the threshold for the ecm to trigger the fuel solenoid.
There is a small brass piece in the fuel tank cap that is stopped up if you clean that out or if it doesn't work drill a real small hole in it, it will allow the tank to breath as the pump is running, we have had the same thing happen to ours. The longer the pump runs the stronger vaccum it has on the tank and when it quits running the tank pulls the fuel back out of the pump starving it and the next time you try to crank it you are back where you started.
More than 2 years the diesel fuel inside the pump cause damage, I had the same problem.... them I rebuilt the pump , now the backhoe is working good, mine is a 310SG model 2001 year
Hey Hank!!! This is Donny, I'm a Ford tech from Jacksonville..... if it was a Ford Diesel......I'd say fuel problem.....if it was the starter.....it wouldn't start at all. Remember air, fuel, spark.....the triangle!!! It's getting air.....it gets spark when you turn the key and fuel only when you spray the ether.....my guess is a fuel..... hold off on the starter for now. Just luck my Brother...be safe out there!!! God Bless!!!
@@HamiltonvilleFarm Donny's right. It was firing before on diesel but would die right out. That sounds like air somewhere but the stARTER WAS TURNING IT. if YOU GO THAT ROUTE TAKE IT TO AN INDEPENDANT REBUILDER. NEW STARTER for LESS MONEY.I hate caps locks. Do NOT give Deere 37 prices for a new one.
Hank, I was raised by a diesel mechanic who regularly used ether and I don't think that's problem. It occurs to me that the fuel is losing prime, so could the fuel pump have an air leak (or a bad seal where it is drawing in air)? It obviously runs for a few seconds, and when it loses prime, it stops. If this is right, spraying fuel on the outside of fuel pump once started should block the air and keep it running until you stop spraying.
A rubber glove on and a rag soaked in gas held on the air intake (keep air filter in) will start a diesel up. The tech is right in what he said, about starter but with the way you had it spinning it’s not that the starter is bad just the fuel switch built in it. I would check for glow plug voltage also Some of these will not run if the glow plugs aren’t working, could have a bad timer etc. Run a jumper straight to the glow plug buss bar. Good luck!
If the starter is so seriously bad, I'm surprised it even works at all. I'd confirm the guy's theory by setting up a separate battery connected solely to the fuel solenoid, if possible. John Deere isn't as farmer-friendly as they used to be, they have done away with as much user serviceable components as they are able it seems.
BS on the starter, correct on the solenoid voltage, wire the fuel cut off to a separate source so it opens, trouble is no fuel. Likely a corroded wire, fuse or switch. The starter is turning over well enough to start on ether. Starters get hot when used for extended cranking. A lack of fuel to the injectors, most likely cause is the fuel cutoff; If not the pump= expensive.
Hi, just watched this. May I recommend ensure it turns over on the starter at c.400rpm, you are chasing voltage drop here as the starter is pulling the battery down. If the starter is burnt out (May well be) then it will suck the battery down. Once turning over fast enough (Check earth lead engine to chassis) next step is fuel. You need a good flow of fuel at the injector cap nuts, on all four. If you have that and good turning speed it will start. If fuel is always full of air bubbles, diesels do not like air in fuel, you may have an air leak in your fuel supply, most likely the lift pump. Before fitting a lift pump fit some clear pipe between lift pump and filter and also filter to hpp to see at which point air is getting in. Fitting am ecu I'm afraid was unwise, the code would refer to fly by wire fuel control and calibration of cableless throttle to hpp. White diesel smoke is retarded timing/mixture, not enough fuel. I am assuming the machine has no throttle cable. Refit old original ecu. Hope this helps and remember, only deal with known facts at each step of the process. Air/electrics, fuel, start.
F428 is the throttle position sensor that need to be calibrated. The ECU do not know how much you press the accelerator because it didn't "learn" the mini and maxi of the accelerator via the throttle position sensor. On the injection pump,there are two lines on the top. One is the feed line,with the solenoid attched to it,the other is the return line,where the unused excess fuel goes back. Check voltage at the solenoid,with one lead,the other lead on a grounded surface (contact on and when crancking) You need voltage there,and you need to remove it to clean the bore,and see if it's not clogged jammed closed or dirty. No need starter,it's working,and it's hot because you use it a lot,that's it. The "tech" is a joke. You could have bought the shop manual for the price.
DO NOT apply any voltage to the solenoid at the back of the injection pump! That is not your fuel shut off solenoid, rather it is the throttle actuation stepper. Despite being a mechanical injection pump, the amount of fuel delivered (the rack) is actuated by that stepper. Some time around the early 2000's, the JD 4045 lost its mechanical throttle linkage and gained a fly-by-wire throttle. Even just backprobing that stepper can ruin it. The small sensor at the top of the injection pump is the fuel temp sensor. Ive been a rental equipment tech for 25 years and worked on many 210 and 310's with that engine. Seen a fair share of injection pumps fail too, they often only past about 3000hrs, even when running only JD filters and changing every 500 hrs. No, its not cheap but many times a new pump is the only answer. That said, I have seen a fair number of lift pump failures, and had a machine that had numerous harness failures in and around the engine ECU and sensors.
*FYI* 1.On all Diesels and fuel injected Gas engines ! The fuel lines from the high pressure pump (the injector pump, not the hand primer pump /lift pump) to the injectors in the cyl. head. --- Those lines are the same exact length so as to, not change the delivery pressure to the injectors (a short line will have a higher del. press. than a long line and this will let one cyl. get more or less fuel causing a power imbalance) The wires connected to the injection pump, I believe, is the fuel cut/shutdown valve, it should be a 12v solenoid controlled by one of the relays in the fuse box. Disconnect and energize the solenoid with 12v and see if the fuel starts to flow under a higher pressure out the back of the the injector pump as it should. then finish bleeding at the head ( never cover an injector line or fitting with your finger or flesh at any point, the injector pump can deliver several hundred PSI of low volume fuel into your body and can kill)
Those injector pumps have a fuel shut off solenoid is the plug up higher and on the bottom of the pump it the throttle control and it need 5 volts for wide open throttle. But those injector pumps are junk if they seat what water in them or have been ran with water/dirty fuel will trash the pump. Hope that may help
well if you're not sure about go tested in a different way like disconnecting the diesel hose and see if pumping into a Jerry can if there is an nice floe the pump is good or just tow back home and have all the time in the world
I can't figure how the tech is thinking its the starter... I only really know old mechanical stuff and the Kioti line of tractors but also get what he means with the voltage drop. When it fired on starting fluid and you let go of the key, the starter's huge draw is out of the equation though.
@@HamiltonvilleFarm He's looking after his job or spare parts mate, maybe bleed the lines with hand pump instead of using the starter, save the battery & starter, probably take a lot longer to do though, just an idea, I'm no mechanic though!
If the windings are going bad in the starter. The Starter would be drawing more Amps then it should. Which would also draw the voltage down lower then it normally would. This could cause sensors and the Ecm to not function properly as the difference of 1 volt would easily shut you completely down. If there is a Ecm, correct voltage is critical.
Also, removing battery cable from a battery alone isnt enough. The capacitors in the ecm will hold enough charge to keep it memory stored. This does not always work but ut has in the past when I was a tech at John Deere 20yrs ago. Remove both cables from the battery, then hold the Pos and Neg terminals together. This will drain any stored voltage in the ECM. It wont hurt a damn thing. Unless you have two batterys in the tractor and you forget the remove the terminals from one battery!!! Lol. Good luck and dont give up on the BH!
Not sure what the issue exactly is it needs fuel, filters need changed if you haven't. Not buying the starter needing replaced. It runs with either. Does that machine have a hand prime pump? My E does.
Take off the battery terminals and hold together for 2 minutes should clear the code. Remember what i said about the solenoid, Try pulling the solenoid and see if it will start.
Most motors go front to back 1 2 3 4 When the fuel starts coming out of the pipe to the injector turn it off and tighten the line. Then start it and it should start. It won't start until the nut is tightened and there is no air in it.
You are better off cracking all 4 at once. Then crank it till they are pissing. Then tighten them up as fuel appears. But im thinking its an injection pump issue. You got fuel to the injectors remember. So if it low injection pressure it wont crack the injectors. Or if its skipped timing same deal. But ill also ask the stupid question. You sure its fuel at the injectors and not water
On that particular injection pump you cant just jump the fuel shut off because its inside the pump and it pulse width modulated to vary engine speed. Full 12 volts constant wont work like you think it will.
Yes John Deere techs are expensive we had to call for a tech to come twice in one day for the combine first we had a belt go to hell and then the control panel got so hot I couldn’t touch it. The reason the control panel was hot is because on a 6620 titan II the engine is right next to the cab and there is no insulation between the cab and engine bay just a piece of sheet metal. By the way we use ether in everything gas, diesel, you name it we use ether, even the lawn mower is vulnerable to ether. Just asking is that a 12 volt, 6volt Or 24 volt?
Pull the starter disassemble it clean the armature and brush and check the contact points . It could be dirty connection in the starter . What the cost of Rebuilt one to a New one . Go one a form there has to be a way to bypass it the starter only get current while cranking . You need to bring a Generator and a high rate charger and a jump box To keep the battery up get wiring schematic too . Maybe a neither source of power for that solenoid a independent adjustable power source .
Enjoyed this video and was hoping you or the technician could get it running. Oh well. Also, the live chat last night was awesome. There was much good information share on RUclips channels and what works and doesn't work. Really enjoyed it.
Either a tip gone on an injector, letting compression back into the injection pump, or the fuel shut off solenoid is fungled up, OR, a plugged return line valve on the top of the injection pump. Test for tip gone, crack all four lines loose at the injectors, crank it over, if she starts, start tightening lines up one by one, she'll die when you find the problem one... Swap out the solenoid from that parts pump you had , and lastly, take the return line fitting out of the top of the pump and see if she starts, if it does, the valve/fitting is plugged(maybe the return line) causing a back pressure in the injection pump. The starter is fine, the deere tech is just going by his flow chart, process of elimination.
I agree low volts fuel solenoid not sure about the starter but buy a rebuild to own a 310 would cost 13 to 15k used find one and borrow the starter seems like a lot of iron sitting on the side of the road,in my area we call that Mexico bound permanently on vacation
Once you prime the fuel pump only line you should bleed air is from the filter to the injector pump most time it will crank without bleeding all the injector lines!!
You can bypass to the fuel solenoid we did that on a JD wheel loader came off the battery with a separate wire it started right up service tech can't tell u to do that due to John Deere
I'm sure someone has already said it but I was running a John Deere 5400 and the found out the injection pump has a fuel shut off relay I'd say take a look at it and see if that's a problem
Take the shop shut off valve out. Find a small bolt the same thread and put in place of the valve . If tractor starts then that’s the problem . To stop motor starve of fuel . Just an idea
Seems to me that if the starter isn’t engaging the solenoid, it wouldn’t be getting fuel to the injectors. I would be thinking somewhere along the lines of injectors, injection pump. But, like you said, MONEY! Where I live in Kentucky, we have a local shop that will test and rebuild pumps. Saved us a bunch of money and time. Had a similar problem with a JD 6415, ran rough, was getting fuel to the injectors, turned out to be the pump. Seemed like we were getting more volume of fuel through the lines than you are with this judging from what I can see in the video. It should almost be soaking your hand when it cranks while you have the line cracked. Maybe something to try if you decide to keep fooling with it is check and see the volume of fuel coming into the pump. Hope this helps, good luck!
Use WD40 instead of ether for starting a diesel. The only difference is you must have the engine cranking as you spray the WD40 into the intake. Just like diesel fuel, it must be atomized to explode.
what's the reason for the red dye in the diesel fuel? here we have either a clear to yellowish green diesel fuel, JD direct injection engine only needs 12 volts applied to wire on pump to enable shut off solenoid to turn it on, if one of the pipes on the pump shows no fuel while the rest do the injection pump has a leaking seal or the pump is dirty inside, you have to send the pump to a specialist for rebuild. you have to watch for black smoke out of the exhaust to see if any fuel is getting in while cranking, no smoke no go, if there is smoke it will start.
the red dye is for the police on the highways to ensure truckers aren't running off road on the highway. There is no difference except that. The on road diesel has more taxes applied to it!
Low volt at the fuel inlet solenoid . Replace it and pull the starter and rebuild it. When the other ECM went out it probably fried the solinoid. Computer controls on the fuel system go bad . Hook a reader to it . Old mechanic system you just pull a rod and open or close the fuel valve. A computer controlled engine may run smoother and better. But when it goes out there you are.
You can use either but the right kind they make ones just for diesel that has a lub in it but the othere like othere ppl just keep praying just little short sprays are fine and great video love the work yall put into it. I think the electric shut off is not letting it I would bypass that
@@HamiltonvilleFarm ya never heard of a starter keeping anything from running but that's dumb electrical builder to screw ppl over and pay tons of money. I thing by the throttle leaver on side of motor next to the shut off there might be a plunger that shuts it off can be able to unplug or take nut off so it don't pull it. But I get not putting tons of money for builders doing stuff make things complicated
If you have foamy fuel in the injector lines. The pump is gone. That will keep it from starting. It can give the same symptoms from my experience. It doesn't allow the proper fuel pressure to open the injectors.
I’m wondering why the tech didn’t tell you that that machine requires two 12 volt batteries? Yes it’s 12 volt but requires two of them. Positive to positive and negative to negative is still 12 volts but more amperage. I still gotta think the tps needs reset. I explained that temporary process it the second video. It’s strange that I feel that I could solve your problem, but can’t solve my f494 code problem. Good luck and great video.
All right so let’s clarify something. The injection pump is a DE 10 single solenoid control pump. The pump has a single solenoid that is normally closed and is controlled by the engine control unit. The rest of the pump is a standard mechanical rotary design. The solenoid is responsible for determining fuel delivery for each individual cylinder. The first thing the technician should have done was connect his laptop and check for engine control unit faults. The next would be to check the injection pump solenoid open duration again using his laptop. The short version is that if the low pressure external fuel pump is running and you have a good fuel supply to the main pump then the problem is likely the pump or the engine control unit. The starter is not the problem. That engine control unit will function normally at 10 V. As a service tech with over 20 years of experience and specializing and electronic fuel systems I’m a little bit embarrassed by the way John Deere was represented. Unless the technician performed the suggested tests off camera at which point I retract my statement. Best of luck and keep the great videos coming.
No he didn't do that. He literally just put a volt meter to the fuses, the battery, the starter and plugged into the connection beside the fuse panel. He took a wore brush and cleaned all the connections from rust. I asked him before he got there to do a pressure test but he didn't do one. I was disappointed too. But he's a field service tech, and I'm not, so I erred to his judgement.
I believe you're taking a big risk by getting your hands near those loose fuel connections. Fuel under high pressure can be injected into your skin and cause very serious problems.
Pull the return off and see if it’s returning fuel. The older standadyne pumps had a glass ball and the glass balls would get stuck due to the internals coming apart. With this the check would get stuck, and the pump pressure would get too high and not supply fuel to the feed side and it would bypass. Sitting diesels create algae and that pump may have a plugged return...
Doubtful the problem is the starter. It's turning over fine. Most likely the fuel solenoid as you were getting it to start previously without ether. It did seem to start ok, just not continue running. Sounded like it was starving for fuel and cutting out. If you haven't already, check the intake and air filters. Make sure there are no obstructions. I'd try feeding power to the fuel solenoid directly (unplug it from ECM). Make sure you are getting 12v at the solenoid and check all earths as well. All that engine should need to run is fuel and air. If the injectors are bled correctly and fuel is getting through the pumps without obstruction it should run. If you are getting 12v at the solenoid and it won't run, replace the solenoid and re-bleed. I've had an issue with a backhoe where faulty wiring and a bad earth to the fuel solenoid were causing the engine to cut out.
Good deal yeah sounds like the starter is bad was your battery brand new sometimes used batteries may not have enough bolts but if you were getting 12 volts that should be good tell them to make sure your getting 12 volts to your ignition switch as well!!!!!
You gave it your best shot and that's what really matters! It was fun watching but I understand when it's time to cut something loose! Can't wait to see the Cat!! Have a good week and you and your family stay safe!!
Too low of voltage i had same engine in forklift. I added a second battery as the ecm was cutting out during cranking. To test have a seperate separate battery and connect ground and power to ecm to second battery leave everything else on the other battery.
Enjoyed the video. my John Deeres are older than this it could be anything. When you get a chance make you some real jumper cables, use some welding lead wires and get some heavy clamps are 25ft long and 30years old just now starting to look kinda bad. I can jump from any side, love them. My dad used his on big tractor rigs.
I have seen people jump the fuel solenoid to a good power source. Would I do it? Yes but only after disconnecting the wires going to it and only to see if that was the issue and if it was to get it closer to home.
@@HamiltonvilleFarm interesting that it didn't work. Would seem to mean the solenoid isn't working at all. That's all that would make sense. I would check it for resistance and if it has to much resistance that would draw the voltage down and also possibly not allow it to function but I could be wrong on that.
Good try, my legal team wanted to put a disclaimer out there , the Heritage Farm Cap had nothing to do with the engine not running. Another great video. Awesome stuff.
Notice how on a newer machine you went through all this trouble and it still didn’t run but you can find videos of tractors sitting for 50 years and they fire up with new gas that just proves they don’t make them like they used to
Brilliant work thanks for the content and wish u could of got it running but you win some and you lose some and can’t wait to see the next series of will it start. Hope you all are staying safe
Hello Sir. Has these backhoes are not cheap to buy if the price is right and the cost for you going where it is is high. It may pay you to have it brought to you. Just a thought. In my humble opinion the starter doesn't sound that bad. One question ?. Was there any sludge / rust,Etc in the fuel. I bought a MF 50A backhoe that had a clogged fuel line in between the filters and the injection pump. I cleaned that out and it starts and runs great. Sorry I can't be of more help. Has I haven't seen any white smoke while you were cranking,it sounds like the fuel shutoff is not opening at all. Use an extra battery to power it. Liked,shared. All my best.
I know I'm late to the party, but I'd wire a separate switch to the solenoid. The starter sounded like it was cranking OK. Send 12v to the solenoid and it should open, and at least prove the theory.
Starter ain’t bad it’s still air in the system you where bleeding it wrong there normally is a way to bleed these I would say one of the big wrenches on the fuel pump that seem useless starter is good it turns over so
It did start on starting fluid. So it's definitely a fuel issue and I assume the fuel tank isn't empty and the lines not clogged from the tank. What the cost of a starter and a fuel solinoid?
Pausing at 13:22 to post my thoughts from a quick google of that F428 code. I think as it's had a replacement ECM the tech will need to hook up his box of tricks and run the foot throttle calibration and then she'll run.... OR maybe it'll not work and the whole issue all this time will have been a bad FTPS or chewed wiring! OK back to the video lol
15:03 Oh wow, well that's a strange one. Not sure if i agree since once fired on ether and you come off the starter it'd have it's voltage on the solenoid then wouldn't it? In your position, the last free test I'd do to prove/disprove the guy, is I'd disconnect the starter hot and trigger wires & run them to the + of a second battery (obv. grounded to the frame too). That way, if the starter really was pulling the voltage down it'd fire right up using a seperate isolated battery to crank it. Personally i have my doubts since you kept it lit a while on ether and it still didn't catch so doesn't make sense, but i have been known to be wrong before!
The ECU protects itself when the battery voltage goes too low and shuts the ECU ie. won’t start, I bet if you put a starter on it it’ll start, the cranking speed sounds too slow too
Pull the injectors and have them pop tested. The dealer will know what the crack point is. The injectors could be stuck or the injection pump may not be developing enough pressure to open the injectors.
I’ve given this a lot of thought... take the radiator cap off and drive a new John Deer underneath it, she’ll start right up!!! 😂🤣 sorry Hank couldn’t resist 😬🤦🏻♂️ Hope you can get it going. From Oregon
Hank, I am too goofy for my own good BUT my pal down the road at the sawmill has a 310 just like that and he had the same problem BUT his was a worn out cam lobe that's supposed to work the transfer pump. He put an electric pump on it and has a 5 gallon outboard motor tank running it. But he just uses it at the mill. Yours just won't get any fuel going even though it tried to light before. No smoke= no fuel. Sorry, Buddy. That hurt! GBWYall!
@@HamiltonvilleFarm And of COURSE the starter is going to heat up having doing all that turning but with the battery hot it did fine. Don't think that'd be your problem that much. No smoke= no fuel in my book. Yall will get it, Pal! GBWYall!
Right now, it's running for 5-10 mins then cutting off then let it sit for an hour and it does the same thing. They just put a new ECU on it last week and that did not solve the problem
@@HamiltonvilleFarm I have a mnachine doing the same, mechanic wants to change the ECU, but it is expensive, @barrythorne7574 did you get your to work? if yes, what did you do to it?
Wiring issue from the fuel solenoid to whatever triggers it. I would almost bet a cold soda pop out a a good ole country store that if you trace that wire going from that fuel solenoid shut off to wherever it is triggered from that wire is more than likely broke or almost broke or almost chewed in two by the rats and mice. Put 12 volts to the solenoid and see if you can hear click it could be stuck and that's the reason it doesn't have a bunch of fuel pressure coming out of the line. I read on line how to clear the code but can't remember the exacts on it. Somehow that solenoid fuel switch is over rode by the park brake or transmission somehow.
If that’s a 4.5 liter then it highly probable that it needs an injection pump, I’ve worked on several of the power tech jd engines and always around 3000-5000 hours they tend to need Ecms and injection pumps.
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Check out Part 2 of the video here: ruclips.net/video/22yPXb9hE4c/видео.html
please do not put hands or finders where diesel is coming out of pump fuel is under 3000 pound presure will cut skin as will trying to check hyd leak be safe saw you do it on last show use head and think
allso this has been siting long time put fuel line right into pump from can then you know it is getting fuel did not see you check line in tank could have been problem to start with mtc
10-4
One reason I like your videos besides content is unlike other videos we aren’t looking at the back of your head or someplace else you go out of your way to get us a good view. Great job
What I love about your channel is you tell us you are guessing, and only have basic knowledge. But you have great drive and enthusiasm.
Thanks Darrell I appreciate that👍 have a good one!
Take a wire from the positive on the battery to the fuel solenoid and you should hear it click. If it clicks it’s open so leave that wire on there and start it up! The tech’s theory is that the starter is taking to much juice to spin it over which is drawing to many volts and taking it away from the solenoid. The solenoid needs a minimum of 10v to open but they are suppose to have 12v when running. If that valve clicks it’s open
Thanks for the comment 👍
Get that thing running! It might throw a code but it should still run with that bypassed
I’m a John Deere tech I work on these all the time if the ecu you are using is working on the machine you took it from and has a foot or dial throttle it should work for this machine the one thing that needs to be looked at is the crank sensor if the ecu does not see engine speed it will never start, don’t worry about the throttle code that is just to set the hand throttle in the backhoe levers, I have read a lot of the comments if you have already put 12 volts to the injection pump you will need to remove and repair or replace the pump you would have cooked the solenoid in the pump the ecu sends lower voltage to the pump and that is how it controls engine speed hope this helps
Thanks for watching 👍
This is why I love, and hold onto old iron. I watched you guys get a 70 year old crawler going faster than this 2006 over engineered machine with its computers. lol Love your channel and your positive and funny attitude. The world needs more people with this attitude right now. Stay safe, and god bless!
Thanks so much for watching. We appreciate it. God bless.
No computer equals far easier to service without a University degree in Computer
Sciences
Hey Hank! Don’t be discouraged! You gave it a fair fighting chance! I enjoyed watching the series and I’m sure others did too! I’m reading other comments and you got a lot of good advice from people as well on other alternatives. I agree too that the starter is fine it’s deff a fuel delivery problem! Keep up the good work!
I agree with you Jay. If they fix it, I'll let everyone know
Seems like its starving for fuel. The starter may send a 12 V signal to the fuel shut off switch to Open the fuel. Pull out the fuel shut off switch ...... test it it may be stuck. Just on top of the pump with the black and white wires. Check the fuel line to the tank.... by-pass the tank use a hose and run it off a small fuel can ....... Look for a split line, leaky fitting, clogged strainer in the tank.....Fuel injection drive gear. Pull all four pressure lines off the pump and crank it .... If you don't get a shower there's a fuel delivery problem from there back to the tank.....
Right on👍
Yep this guy knows a little, but not everything he is saying is true
Opps.....my bad ....... According to the manual that electrical component appears to be a fuel temperature sensor.....
Cool show...im a retired automotive veterin an i do get a kick out of wether these machines will start or not...good fun to watch...
Thank you Maurice. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment 👍
Fuel shut off solenoid just had this happen to one of my tractors run hot wire from solenoid to battery
I think you are right 👍
I think this man is right too 👍
@@HamiltonvilleFarm The old PT pumps on a Cummins had a screw on the shutoff that you could run it for it to run without power. Bet the 310 don't EVEN have one. Rats!
You are right
A few things that I would habe tried that I am not sure you have.
Did you blow out the line from the lift pump to the fuel Tank?
A dedicated fuel supply to the lift pump?
Definitely use a dedicated battery for the fuel solenoid. As it sounds like your starter windings have deteriorated causing a very large power draw. That is why your voltage is dropping below the threshold for the ecm to trigger the fuel solenoid.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and make the comment. I truly appreciate it! Have a good day.
There is a small brass piece in the fuel tank cap that is stopped up if you clean that out or if it doesn't work drill a real small hole in it, it will allow the tank to breath as the pump is running, we have had the same thing happen to ours. The longer the pump runs the stronger vaccum it has on the tank and when it quits running the tank pulls the fuel back out of the pump starving it and the next time you try to crank it you are back where you started.
Thanks for the info 👍
More than 2 years the diesel fuel inside the pump cause damage, I had the same problem.... them I rebuilt the pump , now the backhoe is working good, mine is a 310SG model 2001 year
Hey Hank!!! This is Donny, I'm a Ford tech from Jacksonville..... if it was a Ford Diesel......I'd say fuel problem.....if it was the starter.....it wouldn't start at all. Remember air, fuel, spark.....the triangle!!! It's getting air.....it gets spark when you turn the key and fuel only when you spray the ether.....my guess is a fuel..... hold off on the starter for now. Just luck my Brother...be safe out there!!! God Bless!!!
Thanks. God bless. I appreciate it 👍
@@HamiltonvilleFarm Donny's right. It was firing before on diesel but would die right out. That sounds like air somewhere but the stARTER WAS TURNING IT. if YOU GO THAT ROUTE TAKE IT TO AN INDEPENDANT REBUILDER. NEW STARTER for LESS MONEY.I hate caps locks. Do NOT give Deere 37 prices for a new one.
Damn Diesel ain't got no spark plugs
You’re obviously not their diesel tech.
Hank, I was raised by a diesel mechanic who regularly used ether and I don't think that's problem. It occurs to me that the fuel is losing prime, so could the fuel pump have an air leak (or a bad seal where it is drawing in air)? It obviously runs for a few seconds, and when it loses prime, it stops.
If this is right, spraying fuel on the outside of fuel pump once started should block the air and keep it running until you stop spraying.
Right on John👍
A rubber glove on and a rag soaked in gas held on the air intake (keep air filter in) will start a diesel up. The tech is right in what he said, about starter but with the way you had it spinning it’s not that the starter is bad just the fuel switch built in it. I would check for glow plug voltage also Some of these will not run if the glow plugs aren’t working, could have a bad timer etc. Run a jumper straight to the glow plug buss bar. Good luck!
Thanks Robert. I appreciate it 👍
If the starter is so seriously bad, I'm surprised it even works at all. I'd confirm the guy's theory by setting up a separate battery connected solely to the fuel solenoid, if possible. John Deere isn't as farmer-friendly as they used to be, they have done away with as much user serviceable components as they are able it seems.
Good comment Dave. I appreciate it.
BS on the starter, correct on the solenoid voltage, wire the fuel cut off to a separate source so it opens, trouble is no fuel. Likely a corroded wire, fuse or switch. The starter is turning over well enough to start on ether. Starters get hot when used for extended cranking.
A lack of fuel to the injectors, most likely cause is the fuel cutoff; If not the pump= expensive.
I think you're right. I find it hard to believe it's the starter too. Thanks for the comment 👍
yes not the starter, if it runs on either it is a fuel issue did you ask Deboss garage on you tube he might know check with him
Hi, just watched this.
May I recommend ensure it turns over on the starter at c.400rpm, you are chasing voltage drop here as the starter is pulling the battery down.
If the starter is burnt out (May well be) then it will suck the battery down. Once turning over fast enough (Check earth lead engine to chassis) next step is fuel. You need a good flow of fuel at the injector cap nuts, on all four. If you have that and good turning speed it will start.
If fuel is always full of air bubbles, diesels do not like air in fuel, you may have an air leak in your fuel supply, most likely the lift pump.
Before fitting a lift pump fit some clear pipe between lift pump and filter and also filter to hpp to see at which point air is getting in.
Fitting am ecu I'm afraid was unwise, the code would refer to fly by wire fuel control and calibration of cableless throttle to hpp. White diesel smoke is retarded timing/mixture, not enough fuel.
I am assuming the machine has no throttle cable. Refit old original ecu.
Hope this helps and remember, only deal with known facts at each step of the process. Air/electrics, fuel, start.
Good input. Thanks so much for the comment 👍
F428 is the throttle position sensor that need to be calibrated.
The ECU do not know how much you press the accelerator because it didn't "learn" the mini and maxi of the accelerator via the throttle position sensor.
On the injection pump,there are two lines on the top.
One is the feed line,with the solenoid attched to it,the other is the return line,where the unused excess fuel goes back.
Check voltage at the solenoid,with one lead,the other lead on a grounded surface (contact on and when crancking)
You need voltage there,and you need to remove it to clean the bore,and see if it's not clogged jammed closed or dirty.
No need starter,it's working,and it's hot because you use it a lot,that's it.
The "tech" is a joke.
You could have bought the shop manual for the price.
Im in line with your thinking 👍 thanks for the comment 👍 have a great day.
DO NOT apply any voltage to the solenoid at the back of the injection pump!
That is not your fuel shut off solenoid, rather it is the throttle actuation stepper. Despite being a mechanical injection pump, the amount of fuel delivered (the rack) is actuated by that stepper. Some time around the early 2000's, the JD 4045 lost its mechanical throttle linkage and gained a fly-by-wire throttle. Even just backprobing that stepper can ruin it. The small sensor at the top of the injection pump is the fuel temp sensor. Ive been a rental equipment tech for 25 years and worked on many 210 and 310's with that engine. Seen a fair share of injection pumps fail too, they often only past about 3000hrs, even when running only JD filters and changing every 500 hrs. No, its not cheap but many times a new pump is the only answer. That said, I have seen a fair number of lift pump failures, and had a machine that had numerous harness failures in and around the engine ECU and sensors.
Yeah Steve, I know it's a killer for those things. Maybe it will be running👍
I think the Injector lines are what they called tuned. There all the same length.
*FYI*
1.On all Diesels and fuel injected Gas engines ! The fuel lines from the high pressure pump (the injector pump,
not the hand primer pump /lift pump) to the injectors in the cyl. head. ---
Those lines are the same exact length so as to, not change the delivery pressure to the injectors (a short line will
have a higher del. press. than a long line and this will let one cyl. get more or less fuel causing a power imbalance)
The wires connected to the injection pump, I believe, is the fuel cut/shutdown valve, it should be a 12v solenoid
controlled by one of the relays in the fuse box. Disconnect and energize the solenoid with 12v and see if the
fuel starts to flow under a higher pressure out the back of the the injector pump as it should. then finish bleeding
at the head
( never cover an injector line or fitting with your finger or flesh at any point, the injector pump can deliver several hundred
PSI of low volume fuel into your body and can kill)
Thanks Michael. Good comment 👍
Those injector pumps have a fuel shut off solenoid is the plug up higher and on the bottom of the pump it the throttle control and it need 5 volts for wide open throttle. But those injector pumps are junk if they seat what water in them or have been ran with water/dirty fuel will trash the pump. Hope that may help
Yeah for sure 👍 thanks for the comment!
I think if you find the fuel pump and loosen the hand pump and push and pull up and down that is made to help get the fuel I mg to the engine faster.
Good thought. Thanks for watching 👍
If you use brake & part cleaner instead of ether it has less of a chance of damaging the engine. Not as dry so less chance of scoring cylinder walls.
Thanks for watching 👍
well if you're not sure about go tested in a different way like disconnecting the diesel hose and see if pumping into a Jerry can if there is an nice floe the pump is good or just tow back home and have all the time in the world
Yeah it really needs to be towed back to the shop for sure.
I can't figure how the tech is thinking its the starter... I only really know old mechanical stuff and the Kioti line of tractors but also get what he means with the voltage drop. When it fired on starting fluid and you let go of the key, the starter's huge draw is out of the equation though.
I'm with ya on that. But I literally asked him "if it was yours, what would you do next?" And he said "Id put a new starter on it" 🤷🏻♂️
@@HamiltonvilleFarm He's looking after his job or spare parts mate, maybe bleed the lines with hand pump instead of using the starter, save the battery & starter, probably take a lot longer to do though, just an idea, I'm no mechanic though!
I say do this, run a direct 12 v line to that relay (shutoff) . It will tell you somthing. They guy above is correct though.
If the windings are going bad in the starter. The Starter would be drawing more Amps then it should. Which would also draw the voltage down lower then it normally would. This could cause sensors and the Ecm to not function properly as the difference of 1 volt would easily shut you completely down. If there is a Ecm, correct voltage is critical.
Also, removing battery cable from a battery alone isnt enough. The capacitors in the ecm will hold enough charge to keep it memory stored.
This does not always work but ut has in the past when I was a tech at John Deere 20yrs ago. Remove both cables from the battery, then hold the Pos and Neg terminals together. This will drain any stored voltage in the ECM. It wont hurt a damn thing. Unless you have two batterys in the tractor and you forget the remove the terminals from one battery!!! Lol.
Good luck and dont give up on the BH!
Not sure what the issue exactly is it needs fuel, filters need changed if you haven't. Not buying the starter needing replaced. It runs with either. Does that machine have a hand prime pump? My E does.
I mention all that in the video👍
Take off the battery terminals and hold together for 2 minutes should clear the code. Remember what i said about the solenoid, Try pulling the solenoid and see if it will start.
We tried the battery terminals trick. No luck.
Fuel shut off is internal on the DE10 pump, you cannot remove it.
Most motors go front to back 1 2 3 4 When the fuel starts coming out of the pipe to the injector turn it off and tighten the line. Then start it and it should start. It won't start until the nut is tightened and there is no air in it.
Roger that 👍
You are better off cracking all 4 at once. Then crank it till they are pissing. Then tighten them up as fuel appears. But im thinking its an injection pump issue. You got fuel to the injectors remember. So if it low injection pressure it wont crack the injectors. Or if its skipped timing same deal. But ill also ask the stupid question. You sure its fuel at the injectors and not water
On that particular injection pump you cant just jump the fuel shut off because its inside the pump and it pulse width modulated to vary engine speed. Full 12 volts constant wont work like you think it will.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and make the comment. I truly appreciate it! Have a good day.
Yes John Deere techs are expensive we had to call for a tech to come twice in one day for the combine first we had a belt go to hell and then the control panel got so hot I couldn’t touch it. The reason the control panel was hot is because on a 6620 titan II the engine is right next to the cab and there is no insulation between the cab and engine bay just a piece of sheet metal. By the way we use ether in everything gas, diesel, you name it we use ether, even the lawn mower is vulnerable to ether. Just asking is that a 12 volt, 6volt
Or 24 volt?
It's 12 volt. I hear ya on the tech. Thanks for the comment 👍
Pull the starter disassemble it clean the armature and brush and check the contact points . It could be dirty connection in the starter . What the cost of Rebuilt one to a New one . Go one a form there has to be a way to bypass it the starter only get current while cranking .
You need to bring a Generator and a high rate charger and a jump box
To keep the battery up get wiring schematic too . Maybe a neither source of power for that solenoid a independent adjustable power source .
Thanks for the comment 👍
Enjoyed this video and was hoping you or the technician could get it running. Oh well. Also, the live chat last night was awesome. There was much good information share on RUclips channels and what works and doesn't work. Really enjoyed it.
Thanks Terry. I am really disappointed it ain't running. Maybe later
I have been using ether to winter start my diesels for over 40 years with no problem. I just make sure i dont use the glow plugs at thee same time.
Right on👍
Either a tip gone on an injector, letting compression back into the injection pump, or the fuel shut off solenoid is fungled up, OR, a plugged return line valve on the top of the injection pump. Test for tip gone, crack all four lines loose at the injectors, crank it over, if she starts, start tightening lines up one by one, she'll die when you find the problem one... Swap out the solenoid from that parts pump you had , and lastly, take the return line fitting out of the top of the pump and see if she starts, if it does, the valve/fitting is plugged(maybe the return line) causing a back pressure in the injection pump. The starter is fine, the deere tech is just going by his flow chart, process of elimination.
Thanks Jason
I agree low volts fuel solenoid not sure about the starter but buy a rebuild to own a 310 would cost 13 to 15k used find one and borrow the starter seems like a lot of iron sitting on the side of the road,in my area we call that Mexico bound permanently on vacation
Right on👍
Once you prime the fuel pump only line you should bleed air is from the filter to the injector pump most time it will crank without bleeding all the injector lines!!
Right on👍
You can bypass to the fuel solenoid we did that on a JD wheel loader came off the battery with a separate wire it started right up service tech can't tell u to do that due to John Deere
Yeah we tried that👍 no luck
Starting fluid doesn't hurt anything as long as you don't over either it we use it all the time
Roger that👍
💥 I sure hope they get it running. Sure would be a nice machine to bring back to life! Good luck!
Keep on tractoring! 👍
Thanks Jon. Take care buddy 👍
F428 is a throttle position sensor error the only way to clear it is with John Deere service tool they will have to
Recalibrate the position sensor
On a diesel, I have used petrol on a rag over the air filter with a long string, pulling the string as she starts... for our info...
Roger. I've heard of that too👍
I'm sure someone has already said it but I was running a John Deere 5400 and the found out the injection pump has a fuel shut off relay I'd say take a look at it and see if that's a problem
Right on 👍
Take the shop shut off valve out. Find a small bolt the same thread and put in place of the valve . If tractor starts then that’s the problem . To stop motor starve of fuel . Just an idea
Roger 👍
been using ether for 30 years on diesels never had a problem
Either your fuel shut off is bad or your fuel pump is bad not the starter
I think you're right 👍
Seems to me that if the starter isn’t engaging the solenoid, it wouldn’t be getting fuel to the injectors. I would be thinking somewhere along the lines of injectors, injection pump. But, like you said, MONEY! Where I live in Kentucky, we have a local shop that will test and rebuild pumps. Saved us a bunch of money and time. Had a similar problem with a JD 6415, ran rough, was getting fuel to the injectors, turned out to be the pump. Seemed like we were getting more volume of fuel through the lines than you are with this judging from what I can see in the video. It should almost be soaking your hand when it cranks while you have the line cracked. Maybe something to try if you decide to keep fooling with it is check and see the volume of fuel coming into the pump. Hope this helps, good luck!
Thanks Trevor. I agree with your line of thinking 👍
Check the little wire from key switch to injection pump n what do they want for it we have parts here to if they want to do that
Thanks 👍
Use WD40 instead of ether for starting a diesel. The only difference is you must have the engine cranking as you spray the WD40 into the intake. Just like diesel fuel, it must be atomized to explode.
P.S. - Straight into the intake. Not thru an air filter!
what's the reason for the red dye in the diesel fuel? here we have either a clear to yellowish green diesel fuel, JD direct injection engine only needs 12 volts applied to wire on pump to enable shut off solenoid to turn it on, if one of the pipes on the pump shows no fuel while the rest do the injection pump has a leaking seal or the pump is dirty inside, you have to send the pump to a specialist for rebuild. you have to watch for black smoke out of the exhaust to see if any fuel is getting in while cranking, no smoke no go, if there is smoke it will start.
the red dye is for the police on the highways to ensure truckers aren't running off road on the highway. There is no difference except that. The on road diesel has more taxes applied to it!
@@HamiltonvilleFarm thanks.
Low volt at the fuel inlet solenoid . Replace it and pull the starter and rebuild it. When the other ECM went out it probably fried the solinoid. Computer controls on the fuel system go bad . Hook a reader to it . Old mechanic system you just pull a rod and open or close the fuel valve. A computer controlled engine may run smoother and better. But when it goes out there you are.
Roger. 👍
You can use either but the right kind they make ones just for diesel that has a lub in it but the othere like othere ppl just keep praying just little short sprays are fine and great video love the work yall put into it. I think the electric shut off is not letting it I would bypass that
I think you're right Dakota. I think its something electrical. Thank you fro watching.
@@HamiltonvilleFarm ya never heard of a starter keeping anything from running but that's dumb electrical builder to screw ppl over and pay tons of money. I thing by the throttle leaver on side of motor next to the shut off there might be a plunger that shuts it off can be able to unplug or take nut off so it don't pull it. But I get not putting tons of money for builders doing stuff make things complicated
If you have foamy fuel in the injector lines. The pump is gone. That will keep it from starting. It can give the same symptoms from my experience. It doesn't allow the proper fuel pressure to open the injectors.
Gotcha. Preciate the comment👍
I’m wondering why the tech didn’t tell you that that machine requires two 12 volt batteries? Yes it’s 12 volt but requires two of them. Positive to positive and negative to negative is still 12 volts but more amperage. I still gotta think the tps needs reset. I explained that temporary process it the second video. It’s strange that I feel that I could solve your problem, but can’t solve my f494 code problem. Good luck and great video.
Thanks Hudson. I appreciate it 👍
All right so let’s clarify something. The injection pump is a DE 10 single solenoid control pump. The pump has a single solenoid that is normally closed and is controlled by the engine control unit. The rest of the pump is a standard mechanical rotary design. The solenoid is responsible for determining fuel delivery for each individual cylinder. The first thing the technician should have done was connect his laptop and check for engine control unit faults. The next would be to check the injection pump solenoid open duration again using his laptop. The short version is that if the low pressure external fuel pump is running and you have a good fuel supply to the main pump then the problem is likely the pump or the engine control unit. The starter is not the problem. That engine control unit will function normally at 10 V. As a service tech with over 20 years of experience and specializing and electronic fuel systems I’m a little bit embarrassed by the way John Deere was represented. Unless the technician performed the suggested tests off camera at which point I retract my statement. Best of luck and keep the great videos coming.
No he didn't do that. He literally just put a volt meter to the fuses, the battery, the starter and plugged into the connection beside the fuse panel. He took a wore brush and cleaned all the connections from rust. I asked him before he got there to do a pressure test but he didn't do one. I was disappointed too. But he's a field service tech, and I'm not, so I erred to his judgement.
I believe you're taking a big risk by getting your hands near those loose fuel connections. Fuel under high pressure can be injected into your skin and cause very serious problems.
Yeah you're right about that. Thanks 👍
He's fine, i find myself doing that often as well. 20 years so far, sometimes with fresh scrapes on my hands lol
Run a quick bypass on the fuel shutoff. You don't want to keep it bypassed as that cuts off fuel to the injection pump.
Thanks Clayton.👍
Pull the return off and see if it’s returning fuel. The older standadyne pumps had a glass ball and the glass balls would get stuck due to the internals coming apart. With this the check would get stuck, and the pump pressure would get too high and not supply fuel to the feed side and it would bypass. Sitting diesels create algae and that pump may have a plugged return...
Thanks for the comment 👍
Doubtful the problem is the starter. It's turning over fine. Most likely the fuel solenoid as you were getting it to start previously without ether. It did seem to start ok, just not continue running. Sounded like it was starving for fuel and cutting out. If you haven't already, check the intake and air filters. Make sure there are no obstructions. I'd try feeding power to the fuel solenoid directly (unplug it from ECM). Make sure you are getting 12v at the solenoid and check all earths as well. All that engine should need to run is fuel and air. If the injectors are bled correctly and fuel is getting through the pumps without obstruction it should run. If you are getting 12v at the solenoid and it won't run, replace the solenoid and re-bleed. I've had an issue with a backhoe where faulty wiring and a bad earth to the fuel solenoid were causing the engine to cut out.
I'm in line with your thinking. 👍
The fuel solenoid is probably the same kind of fuel disconnect you pull on other tractors till people got stupid and thought that was too much work.
Thanks for watching 👍
Did the field tech check crankshaft sensor for noise output should read 47 when cranking without that the ecu doesn't know what the engine is doing
No he didn't do that.
Check the prongs on the ECU connector make sure there are not bent pins!!!
Yeah, it's a brand new ECU so I think they are good👍
Good deal yeah sounds like the starter is bad was your battery brand new sometimes used batteries may not have enough bolts but if you were getting 12 volts that should be good tell them to make sure your getting 12 volts to your ignition switch as well!!!!!
You gave it your best shot and that's what really matters! It was fun watching but I understand when it's time to cut something loose! Can't wait to see the Cat!! Have a good week and you and your family stay safe!!
Thanks John. Same to you buddy. Be careful 👍
Made a good run at it. Sometimes the best decision you can make is to walk away. I’m not
Good at that.
Lol. I hear ya. 👍
Too low of voltage i had same engine in forklift. I added a second battery as the ecm was cutting out during cranking. To test have a seperate separate battery and connect ground and power to ecm to second battery leave everything else on the other battery.
10-4. We tried that. No luck. 🤷🏻♂️
@@HamiltonvilleFarm partially unscrew the solenoid so it doesn't complerty shut off
Enjoyed the video. my John Deeres are older than this it could be anything. When you get a chance make you some real jumper cables, use some welding lead wires and get some heavy clamps are 25ft long and 30years old just now starting to look kinda bad. I can jump from any side, love them. My dad used his on big tractor rigs.
Right on👍 thanks for the comment.
I have seen people jump the fuel solenoid to a good power source. Would I do it? Yes but only after disconnecting the wires going to it and only to see if that was the issue and if it was to get it closer to home.
We tried that. No luck. 😔
@@HamiltonvilleFarm interesting that it didn't work. Would seem to mean the solenoid isn't working at all. That's all that would make sense. I would check it for resistance and if it has to much resistance that would draw the voltage down and also possibly not allow it to function but I could be wrong on that.
You Gave it All you Could at least you Lived and Learned and That Means A lot
Yes sir Rickie. Thanks for watching 👍
Good try, my legal team wanted to put a disclaimer out there , the Heritage Farm Cap had nothing to do with the engine not running. Another great video. Awesome stuff.
Lol. It's a very comfortable ball cap😁
Notice how on a newer machine you went through all this trouble and it still didn’t run but you can find videos of tractors sitting for 50 years and they fire up with new gas that just proves they don’t make them like they used to
Man ain't that the truth. Thanks for watching 👍
Brilliant work thanks for the content and wish u could of got it running but you win some and you lose some and can’t wait to see the next series of will it start. Hope you all are staying safe
Thanks Hayden. Be careful over there. Cheers
Hamiltonville Farm Thank you and you all be safe over there as well mate
Hello Sir. Has these backhoes are not cheap to buy if the price is right and the cost for you going where it is is high. It may pay you to have it brought to you. Just a thought. In my humble opinion the starter doesn't sound that bad. One question ?. Was there any sludge / rust,Etc in the fuel. I bought a MF 50A backhoe that had a clogged fuel line in between the filters and the injection pump. I cleaned that out and it starts and runs great. Sorry I can't be of more help. Has I haven't seen any white smoke while you were cranking,it sounds like the fuel shutoff is not opening at all. Use an extra battery to power it. Liked,shared. All my best.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and make the comment. I truly appreciate it! Have a good day.
I know I'm late to the party, but I'd wire a separate switch to the solenoid. The starter sounded like it was cranking OK. Send 12v to the solenoid and it should open, and at least prove the theory.
Thanks for watching 👍
Starter ain’t bad it’s still air in the system you where bleeding it wrong there normally is a way to bleed these I would say one of the big wrenches on the fuel pump that seem useless starter is good it turns over so
It did start on starting fluid. So it's definitely a fuel issue and I assume the fuel tank isn't empty and the lines not clogged from the tank. What the cost of a starter and a fuel solinoid?
a few hundred bucks for the starter but you cant just buy the solenoid, you have to buy the whole fuel pump..$1500ish
@@HamiltonvilleFarm then try the starter, but to be honest that sounds like the tech couldn't fix it and came up with a bullshit excuse
Pausing at 13:22 to post my thoughts from a quick google of that F428 code. I think as it's had a replacement ECM the tech will need to hook up his box of tricks and run the foot throttle calibration and then she'll run.... OR maybe it'll not work and the whole issue all this time will have been a bad FTPS or chewed wiring! OK back to the video lol
15:03 Oh wow, well that's a strange one. Not sure if i agree since once fired on ether and you come off the starter it'd have it's voltage on the solenoid then wouldn't it? In your position, the last free test I'd do to prove/disprove the guy, is I'd disconnect the starter hot and trigger wires & run them to the + of a second battery (obv. grounded to the frame too). That way, if the starter really was pulling the voltage down it'd fire right up using a seperate isolated battery to crank it.
Personally i have my doubts since you kept it lit a while on ether and it still didn't catch so doesn't make sense, but i have been known to be wrong before!
I totally agree with you Dan
The ECU protects itself when the battery voltage goes too low and shuts the ECU ie. won’t start, I bet if you put a starter on it it’ll start, the cranking speed sounds too slow too
Thanks 👍
Instead of using ether try putting diesel in a spray bottle and doing that.
Right on 👍
Does that work if so that’s a great idea i hate the locking up that ether causes
WD 40 works the same as either even in a gas engine
@@rickhalabrin7783 @ Brake cleaner does the job too.
@@rickhalabrin7783 i agree on the wd..less explosive and lubricates at the same time..rare i use ether anymore
I have a feeling part 4 will be upon us. You are so close! It's a fuel starvation problem for sure! Good luck.
Thanks Dan. I appreciate you watching 👍
Are you getting fuel at he tank pick up, lift pump ok?
Yo creo que tiene problema con bomba de inyección. Esas bombas Stanadyne electrónicas son muy problemáticas con ella solenoide.
Thanks for watching
Pull the injectors and have them pop tested. The dealer will know what the crack point is. The injectors could be stuck or the injection pump may not be developing enough pressure to open the injectors.
Right on👍
John Deere puts either starting aids on their machines from the factory,I operated them in Ohio for years,retired with 40 years in the union!
Right on👍
I’ve given this a lot of thought... take the radiator cap off and drive a new John Deer underneath it, she’ll start right up!!! 😂🤣 sorry Hank couldn’t resist 😬🤦🏻♂️ Hope you can get it going. From Oregon
Lol. I hear ya bud👍 thanks for stopping by Bubba!
Still no guarantee it will run :)
Hank, I am too goofy for my own good BUT my pal down the road at the sawmill has a 310 just like that and he had the same problem BUT his was a worn out cam lobe that's supposed to work the transfer pump. He put an electric pump on it and has a 5 gallon outboard motor tank running it. But he just uses it at the mill. Yours just won't get any fuel going even though it tried to light before. No smoke= no fuel. Sorry, Buddy. That hurt! GBWYall!
Thanks Lewie. I appreciate the comment 👍
@@HamiltonvilleFarm I hate it too. A 310 is a sweet digging hoe. But someone will figure it out. I try but it ain't 2+2 quite yet. GBWYall!
@@HamiltonvilleFarm And of COURSE the starter is going to heat up having doing all that turning but with the battery hot it did fine. Don't think that'd be your problem that much. No smoke= no fuel in my book. Yall will get it, Pal! GBWYall!
Run a jumper wire with a toggle switch to the solenoid I've done it to many diesels
We tried that. No luck. I appreciate the comment 👍
Hey Hank can u tell me if u or farther in law got the 310g crank I have one doing the same thing already put all the same parts u did can u help
Right now, it's running for 5-10 mins then cutting off then let it sit for an hour and it does the same thing. They just put a new ECU on it last week and that did not solve the problem
@@HamiltonvilleFarm I have a mnachine doing the same, mechanic wants to change the ECU, but it is expensive,
@barrythorne7574 did you get your to work? if yes, what did you do to it?
Gonna need a set of rings boys with all that starting fluid
Yeah you probably right👍
The code you were getting is the throttle positioning sensor
Yes sir
Hi. could they repair the fault and turn it on?
What about the pick up pump?
I think it is fine👍
Wiring issue from the fuel solenoid to whatever triggers it. I would almost bet a cold soda pop out a a good ole country store that if you trace that wire going from that fuel solenoid shut off to wherever it is triggered from that wire is more than likely broke or almost broke or almost chewed in two by the rats and mice. Put 12 volts to the solenoid and see if you can hear click it could be stuck and that's the reason it doesn't have a bunch of fuel pressure coming out of the line. I read on line how to clear the code but can't remember the exacts on it. Somehow that solenoid fuel switch is over rode by the park brake or transmission somehow.
I agree with you. I think that's the issue too.
Try brand new battery with high cranking amps get the glow plugs hot to full potential and full crank out of that motor
Thanks for the comment 👍
The throttle probably frozen shut that's probably why the engine is not kicking over
I put air pressure to the Fuel Tank in the past and forced the system to bleed
Thanks Royce. That's a good idea 👍
It's a shame that nice a machine ended up that way. U can't beat a deere backhoe. Love ur content man it's great!!!!
Thanks Dave. I appreciate that. Hopefully it gets fixed. I just cant afford to do it, but I'm sure they'll keep at it!
Love the color of your seats in the truck. You dont see that color too often.
Thanks David. 👍
If that’s a 4.5 liter then it highly probable that it needs an injection pump, I’ve worked on several of the power tech jd engines and always around 3000-5000 hours they tend to need Ecms and injection pumps.
Thanks Connor!