UNI-T UT61E+ DMM, Part5
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- Опубликовано: 8 окт 2021
- In part , we life cycle the UT61E+'s function switch.
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UNI-T UT181A Part 2, Characterizing the grill starter:
• The UNI-T UT181A Datal...
The data for the meters I have tested may be found here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Answers to Frequently Asked Questions may be found here: docs.google.com/document/d/1g... 
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I love the you you are keeping meter manufactures honest. Thanks Joe.
Excellent in depth test. Makes me think that cleaning and lubing everything as preventative maintenance might make things last longer. Also the switch was an easy fix so thats not too big a deal. I think a couple of short sections of piano wire heated up and pressed in would work as a fix for the posts. I'd love to see a test of the UT61B+ as that is much cheaper and I think the case and switches etc are the same.
Very well done. Specially the software you have written for this test. Thanks Joe
Thanks for the thorough testing.
That went better than I expected! Then again, I wasn’t expecting all that much.
Those pins breaking is a pretty disappointing failure mode, though
Большое спасибо! Отличный обзор! Спасибо что предупредили о поломке переключателя и прочих плохих моментах!
You stay safe too.
What I got out of the test was that the switch is likely to break at some point, sooner rather than later. Thanks Joe.
Mas ,isso demorará um eternidade.não forçados tanto o instrumento!!
The UT210Es I mentioned did not last very long.
Thanks for information
Hi my ferind test fluke 179
Thank you🌟🌟💖
Well, it appears they upped the quality a bit compared to the original. Maybe the next revision will actually be something that might be usable for many years.
I have something really nice for you to lookup to, maybe China vs Taiwan will make a difference
GW Instek GDM-541
seems a lot like the UT161E
Built down to a price.
You could also use foamed tape.
It would have to be paper thin. Best option, buy a better meter.
Don’t do it - I have had over the last two years had two Uni t ammeters, two Uni t multimeters, a thermometer fail, and not from misuse, abuse or damage - just usual everyday tech use, management finally agreed to buy Fluke as replacements and I haven’t been happier, they just work, are reliable, robust and make me feel so much better about working safely. I agree Everything eventually wears out, But sometimes cheap works out more expensive, I have had and still own many Flukes from the last 30 years and they have done me well !! Also check out some Klein multimeters as an alternative !!
I have a friend who owned a Combat Wombat. I owned an ACE SuperRat.
Combat wombat = what Dat? & ACE super rat 🐀? Toys ? Tools ? Or weapons 😂
@@SeagullWaterPurifier ruclips.net/video/cc2qELgPdQw/видео.html
I love your test Mr. Jon
But I think you have to give the meter's contact time to cool down.
Based on what? I run them all the same. Some meters do much better than others.
An excellent well designed test. I liked your plastic welding repair at the end of the video. That is a skill I need to learn.
Is there any way to record the rotation resistance of the switch? I see your software seeks the torque it needs to initially turn the switch. Does it maintain that torque throughout the test?
Thank you for all of your work.
It limits the torque to a percentage of the initial settings. It may be possible to monitor the torque indirectly but this motor doesn't support it.
Look up "3D printing pen" for a plastic welding machine. Or just use a file to rough up the two surfaces and JB Weld them together.
@@NiHaoMike64 Or buy a better meter and never worry that it's going to fail like this.
I've replaced my ut61e+ with bm786 and plan to get the 869. I was going to buy a bench meter but my new bench is going to be very long so I'll have one on either side.
I do like the BM869s and used it fair amount.
Excellent test, Joe! Really amazing workmanship on the tester and impressive results overall. A well worth 30min (on our end) spent.
Overall, the UT61E+ is showing its worth. I scoffed at it in the beginning but your tests redeemed it quite a bit in my eyes. Not perfect, not entirely safe, but not worthless.
I think the price is too high for what the meter is. I commonly use temperature and would have really liked to have seen it supported. The weak switch mechanical design is a sore spot. I think I would rather add the extra cash and get the BM78x. It's just that much better of a product. Drop the price of the 61E+ and it may be worth it for a few.
@@joesmith-je3tq strictly to features, I agree with you that temperature would be much more aligned with the purpose of this meter. hfe is quite useless; I also dislike its bargraph (it loses by a mile to the original UT61E). I also agree with you its price puts it close to the range of better built meters but, even still, that is still an alright meter for the bench IMHO.
@@joesmith-je3tq Hi, what should be the right cost in your opinion ?. Or rather, above what price it should be leave alone and take a brymen or something else?
@@niwivan3793 I think that depends on what the the few people I mentioned would be willing to pay. I'm sure the bean counters at UNI-T are tracking the sales and profits.
Always interesting to see a test like that, it would be kept secret for IP reasons or not done at all . Just wondering if you think the speed of the switch turning to get to 50000 cycles creates enough heat buildup to speed up the degradation process? Normal use, I would turn the nob about 10 times and let it rest until next use kinda deal. But obviously I understand you can`t leave the rig going for 5 years.
Keep up the good work!
I may need to add this question to the FAQ. No I don't believe it causes any problem.
Haha a test over a long period = 12 months max and throw it in the #@$& it bucket no long term testing required - built in redundancy Uni-t
@@SeagullWaterPurifier Watch the Brymen jigs and you get a feel how they validate the designs.
Would you recommend to open up and perform maintenance every couple of years even on the better made more expensive meters?
I do not know what this maintenance would be. I've never seen in a manual where the manufacture recommends maintenance be performed. If there are problems, I would return for service or replace it.
Hello love your videos !! Tell me Just one thing is it possible to modify the bandwith of this stuff and extended it to 20khz for the measurement in alternative voltage?
Possible but I would never recommend anyone attempt to modify a safety device. Best to buy tools that meet your requirements.
very nice video Joe! I liked it a lot.
one question regarding the resistance measures you present at the end: one reason of the spikes in resistance recorded for the 61E+ can be given by grease with residual conductive copper spread over the contacts. what do you think?
Well, I don't know. I can tell you that the spikes are common for all meters. There is no perfect mechanical switch. If we look at the five meters that have opened up (>1kohm). some three had grease, two did not.
@@joesmith-je3tq yes, ok. congrats, very nice analysis!
@@joesmith-je3tqYour test video Joe, it gave me an idea. In a way the design of the "ideal" multimeter switch needs to be done as a separate module which could be easy to replaced in case if it is failed or as a part of the regular maintenance. Much like the layered switches from 60th (e.g. old Soviet tech with ceramic plates etc) but considering costs of mass production it may be not viable for the low end meters. And sure thd weight and size may be affected but it may be more maintainable in the long term run especially for use in the labs? Another option the actual contact plate and a rotor with contacts somehow must be a separate detail with the possibility to replace in the field and to keep "spare switch" on hand for serious jobs etc Replacement must not affect calibration in this case (pre-tested part) etc What do you think?
Hello Joe, I enjoy your videos. Is there a video where you show polishing the scratches out of the display on the meters, also Is there a removable protector that can be but on the display? I thought you mentioned that in a video but now I cant find it. thanks Scott
Hello Scott. I've never made a video on polishing them but I did show the compound I used in one of them. The following link shows a before and after I polished the lens on a Fluke meter. If you scroll through the posts you will also find what I use for the protector.
www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg1262271/#msg1262271
Just try to use something like polishing paste Plastix for headlights. Most are polycarbonate lights light and minor scratches can be removed by this.
Sorry for the second comment but do you have a lab tour video?
Sorry I don't. Just imagine a messy lab with junk and vintage test equipment everywhere.
Interesting results. Would you take it into the field and rely on it? Thanks.
It depends on what I would be doing with it in this field.
Dave will angry with u ..lol 🤣
32:21 Is there any test left you have not covered and graphed yet? how about that test you put the meter into the dishwasher and put the dishwasher in the dryer for 3 hours? I like to see that! :D
What about MESTEK DM100C Digital Multimeter
I wasn't able to find and photos of one apart to give you any feedback outside of typically these low end meters have not performed well against my tests.
What about the accumulated heat caused by repetitive motion? It seems to me that that might very well skew your test results?
It didn't "skew" it on any of the Flukes or Brymens. Brymens aren't much more expensive than this Uni-T and they have real CAT ratings.
I run them very slow and doubt heat would ever be a problem even with the worse materials.
I don’t know that in all situations you turn the dial constantly from one side to the other - but I suppose that’s maybe a longevity test of sorts!! but not exactly a real world test
@@SeagullWaterPurifier Define real world? Grandpa pulling the meter out once a year to test old batteries in a drawer. Brymen's tests are a good indicator.
I'm surprised to be honest. But may be when it comes open at that time may be some will throw away meter at that moment :)
Or if they need something more reliable, they just purchase something better and not throw anything out.
Hey Joe, Hope you are well and all, Do you have any plans for testing more Keysight multimeters? As far as I know, you have not tested any other keysight meter other than the U1231A.
I apologise for any inconvience caused, Cheers.
It's no inconvenience. The reason I never looked at another Keysight meter was the meter I tried did so poorly against my tests. Not just the transients but I can't get over that poor material selection for the detent spring. I made an attempt to contact them about it but no luck. After this, I saw no reason to invest anymore time with their products.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thanks for clarifying! I was also kind of surprised when U1231A failed at 5kV, similiar to $50 UT 139C.
I would like to see more life cycle tests (on old meters if possible). Please take it only as a suggestion.
Thanks for your videos and Cheers.
@@diveshr.960 The problem with life cycle testing old meters is there is no way to know how far long they are in their life. A 30 year old meter in heavy use may be near its end. The same meter that was used to test a batteries in the drawer once a year may be good as new. If I were able to find new old stock, I would have no problem running them. I suspect, from my days of B&W TVs and mechanical tuners, the wafer switches may not hold up very well. I'm not sure how I would test some of the old button styles.
@@joesmith-je3tq I think you got confused about what I was referring to.
I was talking about meters that are less than a decade old i.e. the ones you have previously have transient tested but not life cycle tested, like the UT 139C.
Anyways, I apologise for not writing more clearly.
Cheers.
@@diveshr.960 Most of the meters I tested were sent to the recycle bins. The only ones that remain are the ones that survived my testing or were able to be repaired. When you look at the list, most of those are Fluke and Brymen. Of course, we know Brymen does extensive testing and I would expect Fluke does the same.
is it really that expensive to just use the proven ball bearing ball and spring mechanism
The free meters from HF use the spring and ball bearing. The one I tested failed very early and had a lot of damage to the plastic parts.
@@joesmith-je3tq I got my pair of 17B pluses for about $60 each in early 2015, they came with some funky bonus Fluke cases that say something other than Fluke for some reason.
I bought them for 'sanity checking' in many unique circumstances that the meter was liable to get destroyed, and $60 would be no big loss. They never got damaged and they are my go-to meters to this day and are still as good as new.
What is the magic of this 17B+ switch...
please review uni t ut17b pro
Are you thinking that UNI-T's ad stating "... as well as 8kV transient voltage protection.." means it would survive? I suspect it is similar to other ad they run. The meter in this video for example is advertised as being capable of reading up to 200MHz with the frequency counter feature. That didn't work out so well.
@@joesmith-je3tq i doubt uni t ad about their safety claim. but i think it's quiet good meter. the build quality and the rotary switch feels pretty good. it has etl mark that make me quiete confidence using it for 220v, not higher. most techinician i know use japanese brand meter rather than fluke because they are more affordable and quiet reliable but uni t has best value (not for high energy use). fluke is way too expensive for regular technician here in third world country. i will be so glad if you want to review this meter. i don't expect it survive 8kv but i hope i would fail safely.
@@rodarimawan4931 I get a lot of comments from techs and electricians who fail to understand the basics of what is being shown in these videos. The idea of my testing having anything to do with safety is false. It's really odd as that is the one group I would expect to know the most about it. However, if we are talking about safety, it sounds like you place a small value on it. Hundreds of dollars is all.
I've looked at more UNI-T products than any other and they never do well against my tests. At what point do you learn this is not a brand if you need something robust? I think I've looked at closet to twenty now. That's not enough? Funny, is the Fluke 101 which costs under $50 withstood everything I threw at it.
@@joesmith-je3tq yeah i know. i remember you said in one of your video that your test is not to proof or to disproof the meter. i just wonder how it would stand your test. i didn't really mean to proof the safety of the meter. because my english is limited.
i did concern about safety but i really don't know the safety standart is. i don't have degree in electronic or enginering. i only playing with 220v. most of regular technician i know got their knowladge from vocational school or self taught. and they don't really know about the safety of the meter they use. i remember when one of my friend (he is a mechanic machine ) checking voltage on distribution wiring in small industry using cheap meter. as long as there is no problem , no one concern about it.
the ut17b pro has etl mark on it. what does it mean ? does it mean the meter is safe? or just a gimmick.
i know fluke 101 is quiet affordable. but still it cost a lot for regular technician (personaly i did not work as technician. just hobbyist). fluke 101 is more expensive than the regular japanese meter (cheaper version). we get more functionality with japanese or cheaper meter than fluke. and don't really know the advantage of using fluke meter.
i also learn a lot from your video
@@rodarimawan4931 At some point, you will see a trend in the data. For UNI-T, it's been very clear to me. You may need to see everyone of their products do poorly before you recognize it. I had no plans to run another UNI-T product but this being a newer meter and so many people asked about it, I decided to invest the time to run it.
The ETL marks and questions on safety are very common. They have been covered many times on EEVBLOG. You may want to try their search engine, of google. I am not an electrician and have little concern with safety. I am far more interested in the EMC standards and the products abilities to withstand some basic low energy transients.
Find old Fluke 77/70/23/... and life cycle that style switch
Not much point in cycling a switch that's already near the end of its life. I had also transient tested an old 77 which did very poor.
@@joesmith-je3tq
Im more interested how that style switch wears out than particular meter
@@cannesahs I suspect those were custom made for Fluke. Do you have a current mfg and PN?
You now have a working meter without a purpose. Perhaps it is time to demonstrate possible consequence of exposing ill-equipped meter to high energy situation? I'm referring to consequence for meter, not person.
I don't have any high energy sources available. This is why I tell people that I have little interest in safety. I would need to rent time at a lab that does something like arcflash testing.