@@MonteCarlo3.1 There are numerous companies offering this type of stand. Just google "motorcycle lift stand" and or "atv life stand" work stand etc - you will see many options.
This quad came from GForce Powersports. You can also call Hot Quads or Maximum RPM. They all sale these type of quads. The Apex and DRR all use the same motor.
Well to be honest it would be better to contact one of these vendors and let them help you. Depending on what you want the cost can vary by a wide margin. They can find you a used quad for a reasonable price. The average price for a used one in good shape with everything already done (like this quad) would probably be $4,000 - $5,500. If you buy a new Apex and build it yourself it would probably average 7,500 - 9,000
What size socket is used to disassemble the driven clutch? I am going to be servicing my sons machine and want to make sure I have the right size before I tear it down. Looks like 38/39mm?
Actually I dont remember what size that nut was. We no longer have CVT's and Its been a while since I put a wrench to one. I remember having an issue with a short socket so I always used a deep socket. Just make sure you get it all lined back up when you put it together, any misalignment will cause the nut to loosen and back off after a few laps on the track. We used blue locktite on that as well and seemed to work well, never had an issue getting it off either.
yes typically it has a little. The shaft moves a little but shouldn't be sloppy. Keep in mind the shaft is stabilized by the CVT cover because the end of the shaft goes into the bearing on the cover. It just seems loose because there is nothing supporting the end of the shaft without the cover on.
There is no tool. You should be able to hold the front variator when backing of the nut and it will be easier with an impact wrench. The grooves in the outer piece holds it to the crank shaft so you can hold it and keep it from spinning backwards. If you are using a slipper clutch in the rear it shouldnt be extremely tight and will not be an issue getting off. If I remember correctly the first time removing the stock nut from the front variator was the hardest to remove. After that it was pretty easy but you shouldnt need a tool. If you cant hold it you may want to try something like a ratchet strap on the outer portion of the variator. An impact gun has a snapping action that will loosen the nut without a lot of effort so make sure you have one handy. A common problem is over-tightening everything. The best thing to do is put red locktite on the threads and that will keep it from backing off. In fact we put that on every single nut and bolt. The entire quad vibrates so much almost every nut on the the quad will eventually loosen up if you dont.
@@qf2films88 there’s a socket tool that holds it from spinning. I can’t hold it tight enough to get the nut loose. Just not sure what size.. the nut itself is 17mm but the part that holds the teeth is larger
@@areenders It must be a different set up. The stock set up and the over range kit has a star washer behind the 17mm nut on the front variator. Call G force And talk to them they can probably help you
I see that yours doesn't have an electric start, but you probably still know. On my little cousin's polaris sportsman 90 the Kickstarter works but the starter didn't work. I put a new starter on it. It worked for a week and then sounded like the gear had lost its teeth. I figured it was garbage metal. I pulled the starter and it was fine. I opened everything up and it was spinning both of the starter gears, but they weren't engaging. I found that one of the little bearings in that one way clutch was messed up. It has one vertical and one horizontal. The one horizontal one with the spring behind it was wedged all the way in. I also found a small 1.4 flat piece of metal all mangled sitting in there, but i can't figure out what it's from. I don't see why just that one little bearing would make it not engage. Maybe i should just buy a new clutch piece (not sure what exactly that piece is called). Any advice would be appreciated.
john Franklin sorry man, I don’t remember much about the starter on that type of mini quad. We started with a Suzuki LTZ90 but I didn’t mess with the starter. We took them off these race quads when we purchased them. Mostly because of weight. We took off the battery, starter and lights along with all wiring. I would find a forum for mini quads and talk to them. Sorry I can’t help
QF2Films it's ok. Thank you for the reply. I took it all apart and figured out that the starter clutch isn't grabbing the gear for some reason. I think it's just because the plastic is worn out. I'll probably get another. I just don't want to spend another 50 dollars on this piece of shit. I've already had to repair do much. Take care.
@@Kyle_gallegher I rebuilt the entire engine on that little quad and still can't get it to fire. I think it's a fuel issue and I'll get it eventually. The bearing had grenaded in the engine and that was the issue. Did a whole top and bottom end rebuilt. I just think the fuel to air ratio is off because it's getting spark, fuel, and compression. Huge pain in the ass...
Not unless she needs a lot of top-end speed and running a built motor. We were running the really big national series tracks like High Point and Sunset Ridge. Those tracks carry a lot of speed. We didnt switch to the over-range kit until we went to a 2Fast engine and ran big tracks. We actually went back to the stock setup for indoor (arenacross) in the winter. We did a lot of work testing with timing lights and RPM's. We even had a cut-away CVT cover and mounted a gopro on it and watched the belt in the variator. Getting the right RPM's at launch and keeping those RPM's in the sweet spot all the way to the top of the variator is how you get the most out of a CVT quad. if you get the clutch springs, the torque spring and roller weights dialed in she will be out front going into the first turn. I hate to get off topic but you really need a good pipe to help the motor get the RPM's it needs to make power and tune the CVT to help get it to the back wheels. This is my video, its just under our quad channel back when we were racing.
This is a service we did between every race when our kids were racing the national series. Mostly because those high end race set-ups produce a lot of heat and friction. On a 50 that is mostly stock I wouldn't worry about it but maybe every couple races. Out of everything in there the 2 main things you need to keep serviced is the slipper clutch and the torque spring. If you haven't invested in a slipper clutch yet go ahead and do it. It will save you a ton of headaches down the road and you will be able to upgrade everything else over time and the clutch/transmission will not be the weak point anymore. The clutch has to slip a little in order to keep the tranny gears together......Just trust me on that one.
QF2Films where do you buy the slipper clutch at? And for some reason I thought the sales guy told me it had one from factory but who knows he could have told me it needed one lol so much to take in when your new to these things
@@Showngomedia It could have one already but more than likely its a slipper sprocket. Does the front sprocket have to be tightened occasionally normally done with a torque wrench. the difference is that the slipper clutch will work better as you begin to do things to add more power. The slipper sprocket is not designed for that. If you do have the slipper sprocket you should be ok for a while until you start getting the quad a lot faster. the 70's and 90's all need a slipper clutch. google "G Force mini quads" Gary is a good guy and can point you in the right direction for any issue you may have. I remember being in your shoes with no help
hey man sorry dont visit here much...I know this was a year ago, sorry. Yes too many injuries, both kids had broken bones and surgeries and kept one of them out of football for an entire season so we got out. I wouldnt trade it for anything, taught them a lot, met a bunch of great people and made a ton of memories.
I have been using that same red lift stand for more than 10 years. One of the best things ever.
Looks cool, what brand ??? Thanks in advance!
@@MonteCarlo3.1 There are numerous companies offering this type of stand. Just google "motorcycle lift stand" and or "atv life stand" work stand etc - you will see many options.
This was an excellent video and was very helpful. Thank you!
Pro trick : you can watch series at KaldroStream. Been using it for watching loads of movies during the lockdown.
@Van Morgan Definitely, I have been using Kaldrostream for years myself :D
thanks for posting such a great video and breaking everything down really helps out very well explained
Thanks, sometimes it's hard to find help for some of that stuff.
This quad came from GForce Powersports. You can also call Hot Quads or Maximum RPM. They all sale these type of quads. The Apex and DRR all use the same motor.
Well to be honest it would be better to contact one of these vendors and let them help you. Depending on what you want the cost can vary by a wide margin. They can find you a used quad for a reasonable price. The average price for a used one in good shape with everything already done (like this quad) would probably be $4,000 - $5,500. If you buy a new Apex and build it yourself it would probably average 7,500 - 9,000
Great video! Thanks for your help.
awesome video
Would this process be similar to a 2015 can am ds90x ?
What size socket is used to disassemble the driven clutch? I am going to be servicing my sons machine and want to make sure I have the right size before I tear it down. Looks like 38/39mm?
Actually I dont remember what size that nut was. We no longer have CVT's and Its been a while since I put a wrench to one. I remember having an issue with a short socket so I always used a deep socket. Just make sure you get it all lined back up when you put it together, any misalignment will cause the nut to loosen and back off after a few laps on the track. We used blue locktite on that as well and seemed to work well, never had an issue getting it off either.
What size socket to hold the clutch when removing the nut? Thanks
Does that slipper clutch shaft typically have play in it going into transmission?
yes typically it has a little. The shaft moves a little but shouldn't be sloppy. Keep in mind the shaft is stabilized by the CVT cover because the end of the shaft goes into the bearing on the cover. It just seems loose because there is nothing supporting the end of the shaft without the cover on.
@@QF2Films thank you for reply and answer, that makes perfect since. I was stumped
What is the tool to remove the assembly that keeps it from spinning when removing the nut?
There is no tool. You should be able to hold the front variator when backing of the nut and it will be easier with an impact wrench. The grooves in the outer piece holds it to the crank shaft so you can hold it and keep it from spinning backwards. If you are using a slipper clutch in the rear it shouldnt be extremely tight and will not be an issue getting off. If I remember correctly the first time removing the stock nut from the front variator was the hardest to remove. After that it was pretty easy but you shouldnt need a tool. If you cant hold it you may want to try something like a ratchet strap on the outer portion of the variator. An impact gun has a snapping action that will loosen the nut without a lot of effort so make sure you have one handy. A common problem is over-tightening everything. The best thing to do is put red locktite on the threads and that will keep it from backing off. In fact we put that on every single nut and bolt. The entire quad vibrates so much almost every nut on the the quad will eventually loosen up if you dont.
@@qf2films88 there’s a socket tool that holds it from spinning. I can’t hold it tight enough to get the nut loose. Just not sure what size.. the nut itself is 17mm but the part that holds the teeth is larger
@@areenders It must be a different set up. The stock set up and the over range kit has a star washer behind the 17mm nut on the front variator. Call G force And talk to them they can probably help you
I see that yours doesn't have an electric start, but you probably still know. On my little cousin's polaris sportsman 90 the Kickstarter works but the starter didn't work. I put a new starter on it. It worked for a week and then sounded like the gear had lost its teeth. I figured it was garbage metal. I pulled the starter and it was fine. I opened everything up and it was spinning both of the starter gears, but they weren't engaging. I found that one of the little bearings in that one way clutch was messed up. It has one vertical and one horizontal. The one horizontal one with the spring behind it was wedged all the way in. I also found a small 1.4 flat piece of metal all mangled sitting in there, but i can't figure out what it's from. I don't see why just that one little bearing would make it not engage. Maybe i should just buy a new clutch piece (not sure what exactly that piece is called). Any advice would be appreciated.
john Franklin sorry man, I don’t remember much about the starter on that type of mini quad. We started with a Suzuki LTZ90 but I didn’t mess with the starter. We took them off these race quads when we purchased them. Mostly because of weight. We took off the battery, starter and lights along with all wiring. I would find a forum for mini quads and talk to them. Sorry I can’t help
john Franklin also try this forum. They cover just about everything.
www.atvriders.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?48-Mini-ATV-90cc-Under-ATV-Sub-Forum
QF2Films it's ok. Thank you for the reply. I took it all apart and figured out that the starter clutch isn't grabbing the gear for some reason. I think it's just because the plastic is worn out. I'll probably get another. I just don't want to spend another 50 dollars on this piece of shit. I've already had to repair do much. Take care.
@@thejohn6614 i hope u spent the 50 bucks my daughters kasea is like 1200 and I got it for 8
@@Kyle_gallegher I rebuilt the entire engine on that little quad and still can't get it to fire. I think it's a fuel issue and I'll get it eventually. The bearing had grenaded in the engine and that was the issue. Did a whole top and bottom end rebuilt. I just think the fuel to air ratio is off because it's getting spark, fuel, and compression. Huge pain in the ass...
Is the overange kit worth it for my daughter kasea 90
Not unless she needs a lot of top-end speed and running a built motor. We were running the really big national series tracks like High Point and Sunset Ridge. Those tracks carry a lot of speed. We didnt switch to the over-range kit until we went to a 2Fast engine and ran big tracks. We actually went back to the stock setup for indoor (arenacross) in the winter. We did a lot of work testing with timing lights and RPM's. We even had a cut-away CVT cover and mounted a gopro on it and watched the belt in the variator. Getting the right RPM's at launch and keeping those RPM's in the sweet spot all the way to the top of the variator is how you get the most out of a CVT quad. if you get the clutch springs, the torque spring and roller weights dialed in she will be out front going into the first turn. I hate to get off topic but you really need a good pipe to help the motor get the RPM's it needs to make power and tune the CVT to help get it to the back wheels. This is my video, its just under our quad channel back when we were racing.
@@qf2films88 im late to the party but what do u think about switching to water cooled for the kasea?
Is this the same setup on a e-ton viper jr quad??
It should be pretty close. The CVT in all the mini quads are almost identical
How often should u do this service just bought my son a drr 50 to startracing of course it’s stock
This is a service we did between every race when our kids were racing the national series. Mostly because those high end race set-ups produce a lot of heat and friction. On a 50 that is mostly stock I wouldn't worry about it but maybe every couple races. Out of everything in there the 2 main things you need to keep serviced is the slipper clutch and the torque spring. If you haven't invested in a slipper clutch yet go ahead and do it. It will save you a ton of headaches down the road and you will be able to upgrade everything else over time and the clutch/transmission will not be the weak point anymore. The clutch has to slip a little in order to keep the tranny gears together......Just trust me on that one.
QF2Films where do you buy the slipper clutch at? And for some reason I thought the sales guy told me it had one from factory but who knows he could have told me it needed one lol so much to take in when your new to these things
@@Showngomedia It could have one already but more than likely its a slipper sprocket. Does the front sprocket have to be tightened occasionally normally done with a torque wrench. the difference is that the slipper clutch will work better as you begin to do things to add more power. The slipper sprocket is not designed for that. If you do have the slipper sprocket you should be ok for a while until you start getting the quad a lot faster. the 70's and 90's all need a slipper clutch. google "G Force mini quads" Gary is a good guy and can point you in the right direction for any issue you may have. I remember being in your shoes with no help
Did you get out of racing?
Joseph Passela yes we did. My two kids both play other sports now and we didn't have time to travel and race. We sure miss it and the people.
hey man sorry dont visit here much...I know this was a year ago, sorry. Yes too many injuries, both kids had broken bones and surgeries and kept one of them out of football for an entire season so we got out. I wouldnt trade it for anything, taught them a lot, met a bunch of great people and made a ton of memories.