Great job on making this a comprehensive video. One of the first videos I ever made showed how to get the backhoe out of a funk by connecting the hydraulics. You definitely did a more thorough presentation of that I permanently solved this problem on my backhoe by building a backhoe hauler. When I take the backhoe off the tractor, I back into my backhoe hauler and lower the backhoe like normal . When I’m done I can pick the backhoe and the hauler up with the forks and move it wherever I want it. The design does not allow any sag Saves a lot of time and hassle
Nice that you can leave the three point linkage on with the backhoe. Doesn’t look too complicated but like you said it probably takes awhile to learn to steps for success. *Keep on tractoring!*
About two years ago, Tim recommended I get the 2038R, for my size property and needs, and so I did that with the 270B backhoe, and now I have been through every trial in this video, so this is entertaining to me! Ha! I too, do not follow those steps; I have a better way. When I park the backhoe, I leave the bucket curled all the way out, so that it cannot curl back in over weeks as the fluid leaks beyond seals. Another thing I do is connect the power beyond to the three point AND the backhoe all in series, so that I can raise and lower the rockshaft and use the outriggers to help get everything aligned, then once it's all hooked up, I take the three point hydraulic line out of the circuit, as recommend. It's much less of a fight when you can have full backhoe control and rear hitch control simultaneously while hooking in or unhooking. EDIT: And NOW I finished the video. That extension hose trick is gold, Jerry! GOLD! (thx tim)
I had a Mahindra tractor 2810 with a backhoe I enjoy your RUclips channel thank you for the Scripture at the end of your videos God-bless you and your family
So much funk to deal with, it's nice to see a get out of trouble video. The hose kit looks to be the best way and you get some extension hoses out of the deal. Great video Tim and Christie.
Tim, your videos are great. In fact, we watch you so much, my 2 year old specifically requests “tractor videos” but what he really means is he wants TTWT. We have a Bobcat CT2025 but I like how your videos are just good info for all compact tractor owners in general. If you ever get a chance to try out a Bobcat CT2000 series I’d love to hear your opinion. We sure do love ours! God Bless in the new year!
Thank you Tim, another great video. Had a backhoe in a funk that lost it's pressure after few months of storage. This video would have been really great and saved countless hours trying to figure out what is wrong.
That was a great video on options to hitch the back hole to your tractor. It was a great idea to have those hose extensions. Smart man. A thinker on wheels.
Thanks for the tip about extension hydraulic hoses. A couple of years ago I bought a 1025R with a backhoe and front loader. Every time I detach the backhoe I have to fight for hours to get it reattached because it has gone into a funk. I finally ended up buying two bottle jacks to lift it into position after unsuccessfully trying to balance it with wood blocks like you did in your video. I followed the link for the hoses and just ordered the kit a few minutes ago. I'm sure they will make things a lot easier for me in the future. Thanks again!
I gotta say iam really excited about this video, i dont know why, as you know i already watch your channel for years now. but it makes me so happy so the all this green paint/little johnnys...thanks for all those great videos!:)
Excellent job of illustrating the normal connection process, but more importantly how to accommodate those imperfect positions that we all find ourselves in at one time or another. The extension hoses are a super idea and, as you pointed out, are standard fittings for Ag equipment. They could be handy a variety of situations when dealing with hydraulic implements on the farm. Also, Christy you did a great job with close ups of the connections and details. Blessings.
Schedule 80 PVC, cut about a third of it out length wise, and then trim the length to fit, and make blocking units for your hydraulic cylinders. You would need to make four. Two for the outriggers, One for curl, one for the dip. And then it not creep, even if the cylinder leaks.
Another great tutorial! Even with the big pin in the boom out storage location I've found that it only takes a couple of inches of sag (and resulting rise in the frame) to make it impossible to get my 2038R backed into position. While a floor jack or some other means to lift the bucket may work in an ideal situation, these hoses will come in real handy when the BH is sitting out at the edge of a grassy or muddy field. Just ordered a set! Thanks for the perfect solution!
Tim, that was awsome to see, thanks for the tips and tricks...even thou im a 1025R owner, this was helpful, even learning about the hose extensions for the power beyond which im now planning on purchasing....Looking foward to your video on the johny being used beyond it's limits in the mission field....right now mine isnt get much use here in utah except for clearing the driveway and street...but plannin on that changing here in february when temps get about 50 degrees here.....On a personal note, folks need to go from social distancing to social connecting and helping one another, even in the body of Christ, thank you and your family for being a shining example unto others......
Wonderful. Best video yet on hooking up the 270 backhoe. 👍 Someday soon I’m going to have one. I hate having to take off the arms on my 1025 to install the backhoe.
This is a good video, i think everybody should have that extension hoses, it seems like the safest option to do this together with the pin in the locking position
Hi tractor group Tim. Great information I’m a newbie sponge sucking in all this great tip on the hoses extension. Blessings to you on your mission trip. The Lord’s calling happens in so many ways.
This makes me think about my modified a White Backhoe to attach to our International Industrial 250 Loader. With sub frame that was fabricated that also holds a weight bracket. The power beyond hoses are 3/4" flex ,with enough length to attach and detach.
Tim, to keep the bucket from moving when unattached cut a piece of angle iron or C channel to fit in between cylinder and the bucket connector. All you are doing is filling up the spot where the ram is. If you make it 1/4” short from where you would like it, you can install when it is on the tractor and tighten it up with the hydraulics. Then reverse when hooked back up. Great videos
And this is the exact reason to buy a John Deere, many more reasons. Smash the like button, comment and subscribe. Thanks Tim for yet another great video.
Don't have a backhoe, however your vid did others very well. Hopefully, maybe, by the time yas return... we'll have some decent snowfall to enjoy...Take care and be safe
Hey Tim. That is a great tip. The hose extensions seem to be a must have. Liked both techniques. Funny story, I put my loader in a funk just the other day while installing a single point on my 2014 1025R. Challenging situation I got my self in trying to get the loader back on. Ended up getting the loader mounts jammed behind my front tires almost all the way down to the floor (if you can imagine that).. Of course, I had removed the bucket from the loader and left it outside before I removed the loader arms so I could work in a very tight stall on the single point install. Good thing I have a hoist right above me and a low profile floor jack. Of course I was alone..my lovely assistant was at her mothers house..LOL! Wish I had taken some pictures...Funny now, not so at the time. Thanks for sharing! Happy New Year!
Tim, easiest for me is to connect both hose from backhoe together to close the backhoe loop. Then I can activate the levers and if backhoe is in a position where gravity can help, it will move down. Cheap, quick and easy. This is my experience with my 855 and 7 hoe.
Hey Tim 15:32 i don't have a tractor like that but the mini excavator I curl my bucket all the way back like when you have to dump the dirt, that way it won't leak internal at least if that helps :D
Tim your videos are great. I had the same issue with my 270 with the bucket bleeding off. My solution I have found is move your dipper stick out a little farther and curl the bucket all the way out and let the teeth sit on the ground. Haven't had a problem since.
nice video. my 270b backhoe got in a funk in the garage when i first had it because the bucket relaxed. now i just block under the joint between the frame and the arm
15:44, wonder if you could use the snap on stop collars on the bucket cylinder to keep it from leaking down. Or cut a piece of angle iron just the right length and hold it in place with a pin or hose clamp. Kind of like transport locks on bigger implements
That was funny, "you OCD types...." That's me for sure, I make sure I clean up all the spillage from my rear remotes and third function connections. Great video tutorial!
Hi! What if you connect the two backhoe together then use the control to lower the main boom while you hold the subframe to the ground with the bucket? Will the main boom lower by gravity?
Working in different industry I learned about hydraulic collars. Basically just a piece of thick wall pipe with the same ID as the OD of the hydraulic piston. One side of the piped was milled out to allow it to slide on over the piston. We used these as a safety any time a person had to work under a piece of equipment raised by a hydraulic cylinder. The collars went over the piston and made sure that if the hydraulics leak or collapse, no one got hurt. They had to be made in a variety of lengths to accommodate different positions of the hydraulics, but for this application you would only need one. Set the backhoe down. collar the pistons, and Bob's your uncle.
Ahaha! Mine did this too even AFTER I thought I had stabilized everything! Although, our John deere backhoe never gave me an issue ...no idea why but it sat happy as a clam off the tractor. My tym not so lucky! But might be because I had tym on a set of pallets 🤔
Omg, it's like you are psychic. My only wish is that you'd done it to mine; 260b. I'm having this exact problem right now. Just said I'll get back to it and the rain came in this week in southern Indiana. Now, I'll have a new perspective and go back to it. Thanks for the vids
i like the backhoe extension kit, ( hose ) , i like how the JD Backhoe allows you to not remove the bottom 3point links, ( Kubota's must remove 3point links , and it means more mucking around ), but i'm a bit skeptical about the JD subframe , ( the Kubota subframe is more substantial, ) and JD tacking but not welding, ( some people have complained about Kubota welds as well ).
I have found when the right side does not line up on the 270B if I turn the adjustment on the right draft arm with a wrench it is an easy way to get the pin in. I think the issue arises from the draft arms not being perfectly level with each other. I like the idea of the hoses to use the hydraulics to fix the hydraulic sag. Great video on this topic!
Tim, when I first got my 3 series with backhoe, I would disconnect it like you with the bottom of the bucket level with the ground to be "perfect". I discovered that I could open the bucket all the way and still have the right angles to install the boom parking lock pin. Not sure if this would be the same on the 2 series. This does two things, prevents the bucket from relaxing, and the dipper stick from moving as the teeth are planted. Haven't had a funk since. I do occasionally have issue getting the pins installed when the 3 point is maxed and hitting the relief valve but the hoe isn't up enough. When that happens I keep the 3 point max up, pull the transport/park pin, and relax the boom hydraulic to trade some weight back to the ground. Works every time now.
To prevent the bucket cylinder from causing issues during storage (by "leaking" down), it looks like there are four holes in silver bucket links (2 per link). The two holes closest to the stick (or arm) look like they would allow a long pin or bolt to be inserted through one side and extend to the opposite hole (14:35) and have enough clearance to get past the stick. Then if the bucket cylinder leaked down, that "pin" (extending between the silver links) would jam against the stick, preventing the cylinder from leaking down all the way and letting the bucket "uncurl" past where the bucket was supposed to be positioned. It also looks like it would prevent you from "curling" the bucket so much that the opposite could happen, and the bucket curls all the way closed up (11:45). I don't have a JD tractor so I don't know if that is what those holes are for, or if there is a "pin" available that is designed for this (I assume they would have shown it in their videos or the manual.....), but it looks like it would work. Sure looks like that backhoe is actual really easy to install and remove, after seeing this video, excellent job Tim, Christy & Bullseye!! Oh..... and us OCD types have another option..... just change out the rear SCV's to female, flat face fittings and change all your rear attachments to use the "cheaper" male, flat face fittings (cheaper at-least than the female ones)...... no more "spillage"..... It only takes money...... no, I have not resorted to this..........yet, LOL!!!! Plus, you can then have short hoses made up with male, flat face fittings on one end and then put your female, pioneer fittings (that you removed from the rear SCV's) on the other end of the hoses so you can use other attachments that are not (or not yet) converted to the "non-spillage" connectors!! Already converted the 3rd function for this....... LOL!!!
Great informational video as always. I just got my JD 4052M last month with the backhoe option. I am sure I will revert back to some of your project videos in the upcoming months with some of my own projects. Happy New year and safe travels on your upcoming mission. Also try to stay warm today with the chilly Indiana temperatures coming.
Great video Tim. I would say, with everything perfect, the hookup on the Deere is easier than on my Kubota B3350, mainly because you don't have to remove the 3-point hitch. Mind you, it only takes about 1 minute to remove the 3-point as it is all just quick connect pins. However, the Kubota is easier to hook up in all other conditions. Even after the hydraulics leak down, it is super easy to connect. But, with my Kubota L4760, removing the 3-point is a pain in the butt. You have use 3 different wrenches, and undo bolts in hard to reach spots....I wish Kubota used same engineering from the B3350 on the L4760
This kit will be helpful with the 385a backhoe for the 3r. It has the same problem if you let it sit very long. These hoses will save a lot of frustration for reinstalls.
16:16. oh forgot about this, but you can also put a 2x4 that goes a bit past the underbelly pin arm on the hoe and rest it on the ground so long as the 2x4 is over 75º in angle and drive straight backthis causes the tractor tow plate to force the 2x4 down thus forcing the pin down to the ground meeting the minimum clearance. don't use a cheap piece of soft pine it tends to break or bow too much (depends how dry/wet it is)
Absolutely great 😁👍 video Tim always wanted to see how the backhoe attachment attached for your tractor s. Prayers for safety and guidance on your mission trip, and Happy New Year!
Good video on how this Deere 270B BH and 2R tractor go together. From watching this video, I much prefer how my Kubota B2650 attaches/detaches from the BH77. You don't have an extended frame sticking out, do not require a 3 point bar and don't require a 2nd set of hydraulic hoses (more to store) to operate the BH. With a B2650/B3350/LX2610/LX3310, remove the 3pt pieces if they are installed, back the tractor up, connect the two stock hydraulic hoses, use the BH controls to tilt the BH back and onto the subframe. Reminds me of the mid-mount mowers where the JD is simply easier to attach vs a Kubota. In the situation of backhoes, it appears the Kubota is slightly easier to install/remove.
good video thanks for sharing I see two holes on the silver linkage bars just above the bucket could you slide a pin all the way through those holes to lock the bucket from drifting? looks like it would wedge up against the main frame of the backhoe at the bucket connection.maybe that's what those holes are for in the first place
I wish the 260B hooked up like this with the 3pt. The biggest challenge for me after hooking up the hyd hoses and adjusting the BH is lining up the bottom hooks as it requires backing into them. I have a hard time seeing them from the tractor seat, so it requires me to jump on/off a few times to have a look. Great video, thanks!
This hose extension works well to mount and dismount the backhoes from the 1025r machines, too. Having the use of the boom, dipper, bucket and outriggers to position the backhoe helps tremendously for positioning it for setting on a storage/roller dolly and for mounting on the tractor. On the 1025r/260B combination, you have to get them so close together before connecting the hoses, and just like with this video, leakdowns can cause a deep phunk that is hard to correct. I made up a pair of 3ft long hoses to be able to position my 260B just right for backing into. Once it is mechanically hooked up, just remove those extensions and connect up per usual. A side benefit of having the extension set is that you are ready to connect up a flow test set like Ken used, too! Question, Tim: What is the purpose of extending the outriggers on that 270 backhoe for mounting/dismounting, except maybe for added stability/safety?
interesting, our larger tractor has a big sub frame that goes about to the clutch housing. you have to back over and hook up the lines and use the out riggers and boom to get it lined up can be a pain. that looks much easier.
Good vid Tim. I have a different make/model of tractor and backhoe but the same principles and conditions still apply. I went through very similar thought processes when getting familiar with my machine (ie. blocks, hoses, etc.) I think for those with shorter or no subframe, the longer hoses, to manipulate the hydraulics are ideal. In my case, I have a much longer subframe that engages a piece on the loader brackets. So, when my backhoe is in a funk, the front of my subframe is about 2 feet in the air. The simplest resolution for me has been to hold the subframe down with the bucket and accuate the boom 'down' control and let gravity does the rest. It's business as usual after the bucket settles back down. Hope you all had a great Christmas, and best wishes for the new year!
Also, you can reposition cylinders using your body weight. For example, if I want to rise unhooked backhoe on outrigs, I would lift it first with the front end loader, then I step on an outrig, and wiggle the control valve. Outrigs will sag under my weight. Then I use the loader to pin the backhoe's frame down. Now the bucket is up in the air, and can be manipulated in the same way. When the backhoe is too high, you can adjust its height under its own weight. Hope that helps somebody.
Wish I could keep the 3PH on with the 260B on my 2025r. Just something I think to be aware of regarding using the extension hoses, 10 feet worth of extension hose would hold about 8 ounces - one full cup - of hydraulic fluid. Guessing that is enough to need to top off the tank?
Great video, I was thinking there shod be a way to connect hydraulics and use them to get out of the funk. Well done. Speaking of Ken's Bolt-on Hooks, I don't see grab hooks on the pretty orange LX 3310 bucket in the background...
21:00 put the hydro control lever into a use mode releasing the valve gate, this releases pressure, the longer you hold it open working it in both positive and negative pressure (flow direction) gates the less leakage/spillage there will be. a little bit enough to make the connectors wet is desired, this fresh oil lubricates the ball bears in the coupler, the coupler slide mechanism, and the seals get a nice dose of lubrication which keeps them supple also. the oil also acts as a rust/corrosion/oxidation preventer. i hardly ever get more than 5-10 drops worth of spillage doing it this way. keep the pressure on if you want it to be more difficult to connect/disconnect and have more spillage come out if you need to shed copious amounts of rust, dust-dirt-alkaline corrosion, or some detergent you were using to clean the machine with like soap or brake cleaner.
Tim kinda curious why you would put all those blocks under that rear bucket when you could have just lowered your boom while you had your front loader pushing down on the backhoe. It will lower with no hydrolic lines hooked up
Really liked your extension kit. I wonder if it would work for my 4400? I have a few hydraulic lines laying around and I will try your method. On the matter of complaints about Deere's odd fittings. I think what is most frustrating about their setups are the flat faced (ORFS) o-ring fittings. These for the most part aren't available in local "farm suppliers" such as Tractor Supply and Farm and Home. They seam to only have JIC type hoses and fittings. Not a problem if you have a specialty hydraulics place to go to. As luck would have it the need always seams to happen when specialty shops aren't open. I try to keep a few of those style fittings for "just in case." Not only does Deere use these less available style fittings they also charge a premium price as well as not stocking some. I love my Deere even with it's little faults.
I wish the 260b hooked up like this. And the pins holding the backhoe on the little bar will move and the pin will come out. They should have put a real locking pin.
Tim, be carefull around heavy equipment, at 8:27 crush your toe, i seen a guy put his steel cap safety boots under a forklift wheel on tar, the forklift wheel pushed his toes into the tar and the steel cap cut his toes right off into the tar. it only stopped when the wheel could spread the weight enough by touching the tar.
Hey Tim, Maybe long ago you had a video on how to remove/install the backhoe on the 1025R, but I can’t find it. Could you repost or do a video for that one?
Tim, question, do you think the outrigger storage pins are used in those upper holes that are exposed once they are deployed out level. I noticed the 2nd set of holes. wondering if this keeps the outriggers from folding up if the hydraulic fluid leaks? Haven't seen anyone talk about these.
I just saw an add for trimming branches. SABRE SAMURAI CUTTER. Have you tried one of these units? I love the idea/ function but not sure if it's a good/ quality product. I hope to hear from you.
Great job on making this a comprehensive video. One of the first videos I ever made showed how to get the backhoe out of a funk by connecting the hydraulics. You definitely did a more thorough presentation of that
I permanently solved this problem on my backhoe by building a backhoe hauler. When I take the backhoe off the tractor, I back into my backhoe hauler and lower the backhoe like normal .
When I’m done I can pick the backhoe and the hauler up with the forks and move it wherever I want it. The design does not allow any sag
Saves a lot of time and hassle
Nice that you can leave the three point linkage on with the backhoe. Doesn’t look too complicated but like you said it probably takes awhile to learn to steps for success.
*Keep on tractoring!*
I was thinking the same thing. Not having to take apart the entire three-point hitch is a big relief (and some could say selling point).
About two years ago, Tim recommended I get the 2038R, for my size property and needs, and so I did that with the 270B backhoe, and now I have been through every trial in this video, so this is entertaining to me! Ha!
I too, do not follow those steps; I have a better way.
When I park the backhoe, I leave the bucket curled all the way out, so that it cannot curl back in over weeks as the fluid leaks beyond seals. Another thing I do is connect the power beyond to the three point AND the backhoe all in series, so that I can raise and lower the rockshaft and use the outriggers to help get everything aligned, then once it's all hooked up, I take the three point hydraulic line out of the circuit, as recommend. It's much less of a fight when you can have full backhoe control and rear hitch control simultaneously while hooking in or unhooking.
EDIT: And NOW I finished the video. That extension hose trick is gold, Jerry! GOLD!
(thx tim)
I had a Mahindra tractor 2810 with a backhoe I enjoy your RUclips channel thank you for the Scripture at the end of your videos God-bless you and your family
So much funk to deal with, it's nice to see a get out of trouble video. The hose kit looks to be the best way and you get some extension hoses out of the deal. Great video Tim and Christie.
Every time I watch this channel, I learn something. Thank you Tim!
The “EZ” hoses are game changers. Well worth the watch.
I do not have a backhoe but I enjoy seeing these details.
Tim, your videos are great. In fact, we watch you so much, my 2 year old specifically requests “tractor videos” but what he really means is he wants TTWT. We have a Bobcat CT2025 but I like how your videos are just good info for all compact tractor owners in general. If you ever get a chance to try out a Bobcat CT2000 series I’d love to hear your opinion. We sure do love ours! God Bless in the new year!
You are always welcome to come down to Mooresville and we can record some Kioti footage!
Thank you Tim, another great video. Had a backhoe in a funk that lost it's pressure after few months of storage. This video would have been really great and saved countless hours trying to figure out what is wrong.
That was a great video on options to hitch the back hole to your tractor. It was a great idea to have those hose extensions. Smart man. A thinker on wheels.
This was excellent. Thank you. The 3R with the 385A backhoe is a little different but the information here is a golden nugget!
Thanks for the tip about extension hydraulic hoses. A couple of years ago I bought a 1025R with a backhoe and front loader. Every time I detach the backhoe I have to fight for hours to get it reattached because it has gone into a funk. I finally ended up buying two bottle jacks to lift it into position after unsuccessfully trying to balance it with wood blocks like you did in your video. I followed the link for the hoses and just ordered the kit a few minutes ago. I'm sure they will make things a lot easier for me in the future. Thanks again!
I gotta say iam really excited about this video, i dont know why, as you know i already watch your channel for years now. but it makes me so happy so the all this green paint/little johnnys...thanks for all those great videos!:)
Excellent job of illustrating the normal connection process, but more importantly how to accommodate those imperfect positions that we all find ourselves in at one time or another. The extension hoses are a super idea and, as you pointed out, are standard fittings for Ag equipment. They could be handy a variety of situations when dealing with hydraulic implements on the farm. Also, Christy you did a great job with close ups of the connections and details. Blessings.
Schedule 80 PVC, cut about a third of it out length wise, and then trim the length to fit, and make blocking units for your hydraulic cylinders. You would need to make four. Two for the outriggers, One for curl, one for the dip. And then it not creep, even if the cylinder leaks.
Watching you from Washington Court House, Ohio Tim. Have a safe 2022.
Another great tutorial! Even with the big pin in the boom out storage location I've found that it only takes a couple of inches of sag (and resulting rise in the frame) to make it impossible to get my 2038R backed into position. While a floor jack or some other means to lift the bucket may work in an ideal situation, these hoses will come in real handy when the BH is sitting out at the edge of a grassy or muddy field. Just ordered a set! Thanks for the perfect solution!
Thanks Tim. Very handy tips. Have fun on your missions trip. God bless you all.
Hope all is well in the new year! You're keeping us in suspense waiting for the next video!
Well done Tim! Great help for those with a backhoe. Luv that 2038!
Tim, that was awsome to see, thanks for the tips and tricks...even thou im a 1025R owner, this was helpful, even learning about the hose extensions for the power beyond which im now planning on purchasing....Looking foward to your video on the johny being used beyond it's limits in the mission field....right now mine isnt get much use here in utah except for clearing the driveway and street...but plannin on that changing here in february when temps get about 50 degrees here.....On a personal note, folks need to go from social distancing to social connecting and helping one another, even in the body of Christ, thank you and your family for being a shining example unto others......
Wonderful. Best video yet on hooking up the 270 backhoe. 👍 Someday soon I’m going to have one. I hate having to take off the arms on my 1025 to install the backhoe.
This is a good video, i think everybody should have that extension hoses, it seems like the safest option to do this together with the pin in the locking position
Hi tractor group Tim. Great information I’m a newbie sponge sucking in all this great tip on the hoses extension. Blessings to you on your mission trip. The Lord’s calling happens in so many ways.
This makes me think about my modified a White Backhoe to attach to our International Industrial 250 Loader. With sub frame that was fabricated that also holds a weight bracket. The power beyond hoses are 3/4" flex ,with enough length to attach and detach.
HAPPY NEW YEAR FRIENDS ENJOYED THE SHOW HAVE A DAY LOVE FROM TEXAS
I pray your trip is successful and brings help to those in need and Glory to out Lord.
Tim, to keep the bucket from moving when unattached cut a piece of angle iron or C channel to fit in between cylinder and the bucket connector. All you are doing is filling up the spot where the ram is. If you make it 1/4” short from where you would like it, you can install when it is on the tractor and tighten it up with the hydraulics. Then reverse when hooked back up. Great videos
And this is the exact reason to buy a John Deere, many more reasons. Smash the like button, comment and subscribe. Thanks Tim for yet another great video.
Don't have a backhoe, however your vid did others very well. Hopefully, maybe, by the time yas return... we'll have some decent snowfall to enjoy...Take care and be safe
Great options for getting the backhoe out of a funk! Happy New Year!
Hey Tim. That is a great tip. The hose extensions seem to be a must have. Liked both techniques. Funny story, I put my loader in a funk just the other day while installing a single point on my 2014 1025R. Challenging situation I got my self in trying to get the loader back on. Ended up getting the loader mounts jammed behind my front tires almost all the way down to the floor (if you can imagine that).. Of course, I had removed the bucket from the loader and left it outside before I removed the loader arms so I could work in a very tight stall on the single point install. Good thing I have a hoist right above me and a low profile floor jack. Of course I was alone..my lovely assistant was at her mothers house..LOL! Wish I had taken some pictures...Funny now, not so at the time. Thanks for sharing! Happy New Year!
Not a comfortable feeling is it!?!
Don’t worry, it happens to all of us!
As always, your video is clear and concise. Good job!
great video, although new to the rear mount backhoe, I have already experienced that very problem. the kit will be a huge help!
I don't own a Deere, or a backhoe, but I really enjoyed this video!
Tim, easiest for me is to connect both hose from backhoe together to close the backhoe loop. Then I can activate the levers and if backhoe is in a position where gravity can help, it will move down. Cheap, quick and easy. This is my experience with my 855 and 7 hoe.
Just ready to comment on this too, fortunately I saw your comment. This technique works for a variety of attachments.
Slick solutions Tim. Good job Brother
Hi Tim,
Happy New Year to all of you!
Great video demonstrating the Backhoe installation. I don't have a backhoe, but I still really enjoyed it.
Happy New Year, Tom!
Hey Tim 15:32
i don't have a tractor like that but the mini excavator I curl my bucket all the way back like when you have to dump the dirt, that way it won't leak internal at least if that helps :D
Tim your videos are great. I had the same issue with my 270 with the bucket bleeding off. My solution I have found is move your dipper stick out a little farther and curl the bucket all the way out and let the teeth sit on the ground. Haven't had a problem since.
I have performed the same operation and haven't had trouble reconnecting. Even letting the backhoe sit for months bat a time.
nice video. my 270b backhoe got in a funk in the garage when i first had it because the bucket relaxed. now i just block under the joint between the frame and the arm
15:44, wonder if you could use the snap on stop collars on the bucket cylinder to keep it from leaking down. Or cut a piece of angle iron just the right length and hold it in place with a pin or hose clamp. Kind of like transport locks on bigger implements
That was funny, "you OCD types...." That's me for sure, I make sure I clean up all the spillage from my rear remotes and third function connections. Great video tutorial!
Hi!
What if you connect the two backhoe together then use the control to lower the main boom while you hold the subframe to the ground with the bucket? Will the main boom lower by gravity?
I've only reconnected once. I did what you suggest and it worked for me.
Happy New Year Tim 🚜 I really appreciate you sharing this information on The backhoe Tim 🚜 I really enjoyed this video 🇺🇲
Just picked up my 270B on Saturday. My 3pt crossbar came welded all the way around on both sides.
Nice video enjoyed seeing some of the problems that could happen
Great tips , thanks for sharing your real life experiences . God bless guys
Outstanding closeup shots & detail in this video ! Very well done. Good Luck on your upcoming mission trip and much success in 2022.
Working in different industry I learned about hydraulic collars. Basically just a piece of thick wall pipe with the same ID as the OD of the hydraulic piston. One side of the piped was milled out to allow it to slide on over the piston. We used these as a safety any time a person had to work under a piece of equipment raised by a hydraulic cylinder. The collars went over the piston and made sure that if the hydraulics leak or collapse, no one got hurt. They had to be made in a variety of lengths to accommodate different positions of the hydraulics, but for this application you would only need one. Set the backhoe down. collar the pistons, and Bob's your uncle.
Great video! I have the same funk issue on my 270b. Put a new order in for the hoses…. Thank you!!
Ahaha! Mine did this too even AFTER I thought I had stabilized everything! Although, our John deere backhoe never gave me an issue ...no idea why but it sat happy as a clam off the tractor. My tym not so lucky! But might be because I had tym on a set of pallets 🤔
Omg, it's like you are psychic. My only wish is that you'd done it to mine; 260b. I'm having this exact problem right now. Just said I'll get back to it and the rain came in this week in southern Indiana. Now, I'll have a new perspective and go back to it. Thanks for the vids
Those extension hoses will help.
i like the backhoe extension kit, ( hose ) , i like how the JD Backhoe allows you to not remove the bottom 3point links, ( Kubota's must remove 3point links , and it means more mucking around ), but i'm a bit skeptical about the JD subframe , ( the Kubota subframe is more substantial, ) and JD tacking but not welding, ( some people have complained about Kubota welds as well ).
Thanks Tim, love your videos. Just buying 13 acres and looking for what I could use on my mini ranch
I have found when the right side does not line up on the 270B if I turn the adjustment on the right draft arm with a wrench it is an easy way to get the pin in. I think the issue arises from the draft arms not being perfectly level with each other. I like the idea of the hoses to use the hydraulics to fix the hydraulic sag. Great video on this topic!
Shoulda mentioned that. Need lift arms level.
@@TractorTimewithTim it is hard to remember every talking point 😂
Good stuff. Thanks Tim
Tim, when I first got my 3 series with backhoe, I would disconnect it like you with the bottom of the bucket level with the ground to be "perfect". I discovered that I could open the bucket all the way and still have the right angles to install the boom parking lock pin. Not sure if this would be the same on the 2 series. This does two things, prevents the bucket from relaxing, and the dipper stick from moving as the teeth are planted. Haven't had a funk since. I do occasionally have issue getting the pins installed when the 3 point is maxed and hitting the relief valve but the hoe isn't up enough. When that happens I keep the 3 point max up, pull the transport/park pin, and relax the boom hydraulic to trade some weight back to the ground. Works every time now.
Finally got a round 2 it ( showing the attachment sequence to us ) 👍👌🇺🇸💪 . Deer should use this video . Thanks
To prevent the bucket cylinder from causing issues during storage (by "leaking" down), it looks like there are four holes in silver bucket links (2 per link). The two holes closest to the stick (or arm) look like they would allow a long pin or bolt to be inserted through one side and extend to the opposite hole (14:35) and have enough clearance to get past the stick. Then if the bucket cylinder leaked down, that "pin" (extending between the silver links) would jam against the stick, preventing the cylinder from leaking down all the way and letting the bucket "uncurl" past where the bucket was supposed to be positioned. It also looks like it would prevent you from "curling" the bucket so much that the opposite could happen, and the bucket curls all the way closed up (11:45).
I don't have a JD tractor so I don't know if that is what those holes are for, or if there is a "pin" available that is designed for this (I assume they would have shown it in their videos or the manual.....), but it looks like it would work. Sure looks like that backhoe is actual really easy to install and remove, after seeing this video, excellent job Tim, Christy & Bullseye!!
Oh..... and us OCD types have another option..... just change out the rear SCV's to female, flat face fittings and change all your rear attachments to use the "cheaper" male, flat face fittings (cheaper at-least than the female ones)...... no more "spillage"..... It only takes money...... no, I have not resorted to this..........yet, LOL!!!! Plus, you can then have short hoses made up with male, flat face fittings on one end and then put your female, pioneer fittings (that you removed from the rear SCV's) on the other end of the hoses so you can use other attachments that are not (or not yet) converted to the "non-spillage" connectors!! Already converted the 3rd function for this....... LOL!!!
Be safe on your Mission!
Great informational video as always. I just got my JD 4052M last month with the backhoe option. I am sure I will revert back to some of your project videos in the upcoming months with some of my own projects. Happy New year and safe travels on your upcoming mission. Also try to stay warm today with the chilly Indiana temperatures coming.
Great video Tim. I would say, with everything perfect, the hookup on the Deere is easier than on my Kubota B3350, mainly because you don't have to remove the 3-point hitch. Mind you, it only takes about 1 minute to remove the 3-point as it is all just quick connect pins. However, the Kubota is easier to hook up in all other conditions. Even after the hydraulics leak down, it is super easy to connect.
But, with my Kubota L4760, removing the 3-point is a pain in the butt. You have use 3 different wrenches, and undo bolts in hard to reach spots....I wish Kubota used same engineering from the B3350 on the L4760
This kit will be helpful with the 385a backhoe for the 3r. It has the same problem if you let it sit very long. These hoses will save a lot of frustration for reinstalls.
16:16. oh forgot about this, but you can also put a 2x4 that goes a bit past the underbelly pin arm on the hoe and rest it on the ground so long as the 2x4 is over 75º in angle and drive straight backthis causes the tractor tow plate to force the 2x4 down thus forcing the pin down to the ground meeting the minimum clearance. don't use a cheap piece of soft pine it tends to break or bow too much (depends how dry/wet it is)
Absolutely great 😁👍 video Tim always wanted to see how the backhoe attachment attached for your tractor s. Prayers for safety and guidance on your mission trip, and Happy New Year!
Good video on how this Deere 270B BH and 2R tractor go together. From watching this video, I much prefer how my Kubota B2650 attaches/detaches from the BH77. You don't have an extended frame sticking out, do not require a 3 point bar and don't require a 2nd set of hydraulic hoses (more to store) to operate the BH. With a B2650/B3350/LX2610/LX3310, remove the 3pt pieces if they are installed, back the tractor up, connect the two stock hydraulic hoses, use the BH controls to tilt the BH back and onto the subframe.
Reminds me of the mid-mount mowers where the JD is simply easier to attach vs a Kubota. In the situation of backhoes, it appears the Kubota is slightly easier to install/remove.
It doesn't matter to me the frequency of the videos, you post when you can and I'll watch them. Thanks.😁👨🚒
Thanks, D A!
Sometimes it is easier than others. I have been in both situations.
good video thanks for sharing I see two holes on the silver linkage bars just above the bucket could you slide a pin all the way through those holes to lock the bucket from drifting? looks like it would wedge up against the main frame of the backhoe at the bucket connection.maybe that's what those holes are for in the first place
I wish the 260B hooked up like this with the 3pt. The biggest challenge for me after hooking up the hyd hoses and adjusting the BH is lining up the bottom hooks as it requires backing into them. I have a hard time seeing them from the tractor seat, so it requires me to jump on/off a few times to have a look. Great video, thanks!
I focus on the top pins/holes. Easier to see. Get them lined up, and the bottom hooks will be great.
@@TractorTimewithTim I'll try that! Also, a video exactly the same as this one for the 260B won't be unappreciated! Happy New Year!
This hose extension works well to mount and dismount the backhoes from the 1025r machines, too. Having the use of the boom, dipper, bucket and outriggers to position the backhoe helps tremendously for positioning it for setting on a storage/roller dolly and for mounting on the tractor. On the 1025r/260B combination, you have to get them so close together before connecting the hoses, and just like with this video, leakdowns can cause a deep phunk that is hard to correct.
I made up a pair of 3ft long hoses to be able to position my 260B just right for backing into. Once it is mechanically hooked up, just remove those extensions and connect up per usual.
A side benefit of having the extension set is that you are ready to connect up a flow test set like Ken used, too!
Question, Tim: What is the purpose of extending the outriggers on that 270 backhoe for mounting/dismounting, except maybe for added stability/safety?
Right. Stability
interesting, our larger tractor has a big sub frame that goes about to the clutch housing. you have to back over and hook up the lines and use the out riggers and boom to get it lined up can be a pain. that looks much easier.
This one works fine. Great, actually, once you get used to it.
Always great content. Happy New Year to you all.
Good idea Tim great video. Happy New Year.
Good vid Tim. I have a different make/model of tractor and backhoe but the same principles and conditions still apply. I went through very similar thought processes when getting familiar with my machine (ie. blocks, hoses, etc.) I think for those with shorter or no subframe, the longer hoses, to manipulate the hydraulics are ideal. In my case, I have a much longer subframe that engages a piece on the loader brackets. So, when my backhoe is in a funk, the front of my subframe is about 2 feet in the air. The simplest resolution for me has been to hold the subframe down with the bucket and accuate the boom 'down' control and let gravity does the rest. It's business as usual after the bucket settles back down. Hope you all had a great Christmas, and best wishes for the new year!
Sounds like the plan extension hoses would be useful for your scenario.
Excellent video!
Happy new year.
Great ideas. Thanks.
Also, you can reposition cylinders using your body weight. For example, if I want to rise unhooked backhoe on outrigs, I would lift it first with the front end loader, then I step on an outrig, and wiggle the control valve. Outrigs will sag under my weight. Then I use the loader to pin the backhoe's frame down. Now the bucket is up in the air, and can be manipulated in the same way. When the backhoe is too high, you can adjust its height under its own weight.
Hope that helps somebody.
Tim have you every put a auger on a 1025r to drill post holes?
Supper simple, to mount the backhoe, and unmount....
On my 1025r I always wiggle the bucket stick around to relieve hydraulic pressure before taking the rear backhoe lines off.
Wish I could keep the 3PH on with the 260B on my 2025r.
Just something I think to be aware of regarding using the extension hoses, 10 feet worth of extension hose would hold about 8 ounces - one full cup - of hydraulic fluid. Guessing that is enough to need to top off the tank?
Probably not…but given spillage when connecting/disconnecting hoses, one should check hydraulic oil levels frequently.
Great video, I was thinking there shod be a way to connect hydraulics and use them to get out of the funk. Well done. Speaking of Ken's Bolt-on Hooks, I don't see grab hooks on the pretty orange LX 3310 bucket in the background...
Happy New Year guy’s!
21:00 put the hydro control lever into a use mode releasing the valve gate, this releases pressure, the longer you hold it open working it in both positive and negative pressure (flow direction) gates the less leakage/spillage there will be. a little bit enough to make the connectors wet is desired, this fresh oil lubricates the ball bears in the coupler, the coupler slide mechanism, and the seals get a nice dose of lubrication which keeps them supple also. the oil also acts as a rust/corrosion/oxidation preventer. i hardly ever get more than 5-10 drops worth of spillage doing it this way. keep the pressure on if you want it to be more difficult to connect/disconnect and have more spillage come out if you need to shed copious amounts of rust, dust-dirt-alkaline corrosion, or some detergent you were using to clean the machine with like soap or brake cleaner.
There is no pressure on a Power Beyond.
Great information video.
Thanks for sharing.
God Bless
Tim kinda curious why you would put all those blocks under that rear bucket when you could have just lowered your boom while you had your front loader pushing down on the backhoe. It will lower with no hydrolic lines hooked up
Really liked your extension kit. I wonder if it would work for my 4400? I have a few hydraulic lines laying around and I will try your method.
On the matter of complaints about Deere's odd fittings. I think what is most frustrating about their setups are the flat faced (ORFS) o-ring fittings. These for the most part aren't available in local "farm suppliers" such as Tractor Supply and Farm and Home. They seam to only have JIC type hoses and fittings. Not a problem if you have a specialty hydraulics place to go to. As luck would have it the need always seams to happen when specialty shops aren't open. I try to keep a few of those style fittings for "just in case."
Not only does Deere use these less available style fittings they also charge a premium price as well as not stocking some.
I love my Deere even with it's little faults.
Consider using DiscountHydraulicHose.com
Still having a difficult time with my 1025r and backhoe, like to see a video on that anywhere to make it easier.
I find the 1025r backhoe easy to attach. Maybe a video will help…
I wish the 260b hooked up like this. And the pins holding the backhoe on the little bar will move and the pin will come out. They should have put a real locking pin.
John Deer can come up some real crazy things. In general I like John Deer. The smaller equipment seems to use after thought engineering.
Looks like you could back up from side over outrigger and connect the hydro to fix the funk!
Tried it…won’t reach!
Tim, be carefull around heavy equipment, at 8:27 crush your toe, i seen a guy put his steel cap safety boots under a forklift wheel on tar, the forklift wheel pushed his toes into the tar and the steel cap cut his toes right off into the tar. it only stopped when the wheel could spread the weight enough by touching the tar.
Hi Tim, have you thought about a move able cart like the 260b?
Hey Tim,
Maybe long ago you had a video on how to remove/install the backhoe on the 1025R, but I can’t find it. Could you repost or do a video for that one?
‘Ultimate Transformer Toy’ playlist. Long time ago!
Tim, question, do you think the outrigger storage pins are used in those upper holes that are exposed once they are deployed out level. I noticed the 2nd set of holes. wondering if this keeps the outriggers from folding up if the hydraulic fluid leaks? Haven't seen anyone talk about these.
I just saw an add for trimming branches. SABRE SAMURAI CUTTER. Have you tried one of these units? I love the idea/ function but not sure if it's a good/ quality product. I hope to hear from you.
In talks with them.