I know I didn’t show the swapping of the actual switch itself in this video, but if you really need me to show you routing some wires and dropping the little panel under the steering column , then it’s time to put the tools down and go back inside lol.
I'm not kidding, that was one of the best instructional videos of any kind on YT. No Fluff, No wasted time, Just the Facts. I appreciated all the tips about removing the steering wheel, probably saved me from a bad mistake. The video was edited down to the essence of what we all wanted to know. Excellent job, Liked and Subscribed.
This is an incredibly helpful video, thank you for making this! The locksmith quoted $350 to do this job, so i started to look for info on how to do this myself. The new key cylinder was $24 and with this video I saved a lot of money.
Great video. As a side note I didn’t have the stuff to make the tool to pull the steering shaft out, but I got a helper and was able to pull the shaft out enough by hand for him to get the snap ring into the channel. Thanks for the video. I would have struggled without ir
Thank you for this awesome clear and concise video. The step-by-step instructions were exactly what I needed to change the ignition cylinder in my 1985 Dodge D350. I could not slide my key all the way in the ignition cylinder lock which of course is necessary to start the truck. I'm guessing the tumblers had enough after 39 years. I installed the new ignition cylinder lock with no trouble. In case no one mentions it below, to pull the steering wheel, you need 3/8" bolts with 16 thread count.
Words can't express how grateful I am of this video. Simple instructions that are straight to the point, no filler content, just an overall fantastic video. You just saved me a lot of headache, and worry, with having to dive head first into a job I haven't had to do yet
Key will not go into my ignition cylinder in my 85 D150.. am asssuming the internal pins /tumblers /springs have worn out.. Gonna HAVE to replace the cylinder, this video is perfect, thank you so much!
Thank you very good details , I’m replacing the ignition tumbler on my 85 w150 today , I’ve done it on my 01 ford and it was as simple as one push pin and pull the whole tumbler out , I knew the old dodge was gonna be way more of a pain in the ass lol
I Want to thank you. Very hard to find any info on the Dodge D150. I just finished replacing the ignition switch and key lock. Mine is an 87 the only difference was my 87 has cruise control on the boiler switch. So it had a wire connected to the blinker handle that was kinda in the way. You are correct on replacing the ignition switch. Fishing it was not fun. Removed the fuse panel and a piece of the dash under the steering column made it easier.
Tight video indeed. Nice editing. Here is what you are going to, here is what it looks like when done, here is the next step. I dont need to see someone unscrewing a nut or screw. Super helpful, made my own jig last night to pull the wheel on my ‘78 power wagon D100 and replaced the blinker assembly. Thanks.
Concise. Direct. To the point. Home made tools for getting it done. Very well done, lad! Very well done indeed! I was just wanting to know what tools I'd need for the lock plate, (I have the GM tool) but now i see that I'll probably have to obtain the mounting screws for the ignition switch. I got a basket case with the switch dangling below the column!
No way! I've been watching your videos since before I could even drive and I still do. I had to laugh at you wrestling that Chevy cab up on that trailer because that was me about 2 months back wrestling the bed back on my truck all alone in the snow. Your a legend in my mind sir, keep up the good work. As for your steering column, I don't know what year you have or if its a standard or tilt column. The lock plate on non-tilt columns just slides right off no tools required. If you have a tilt column they are quite a bit more complicated, I've never messed with one myself so unfortunately I'm of no use to you there, but I know you can figure it out. Chrysler used those same columns for years and I do have a diagram of a tilt one blown apart saved somewhere..... I guess I can find it and link it if you want it. My father shares the same name as you, which makes you easy to remember, but he has a 49, 5-window, 3600 with a 4 on the floor. Been fighting making the roll up windows work as no one makes the correct replacement actuators or tracks for a 49, got one side figured out with 1955 parts and rollers, just have to do it all over again on the other side, just wish the inside of the door would quit trying to cut my arms off. I appreciate the comment and I'm happy to answer any other questions, take care.
Great video exactly what video of this sort should be zero b s straight to the point . Much appreciated thank you keep making videos you are a real asset to the community
Thanks for this video man! Had to jack my own W250 after losing my keys and the ignition switch took a shit after cranking on it with a bar wrench for a few weeks so gonna be referencing this when the parts come in this week. Cheers!
This video shows so much so quickly- no waste. Extremely useful. I have an automatic on the column 70 cuda. I've removed the first snap ring, but the next cover is not coming off. Next to this cover are the drive-reverse indicators. Any advice?
That was an excellent video ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with handling this chore . Have you ever swapped out the power steering gear box ? Mine is leaking it appears to be at the input shaft where the steering coupler connects .
I have replaced the steering gearbox on mine two times, it’s not hard. It’s a little bit trickier on a four-wheel-drive because the box is mounted to a plate that then bolts to the frame, and there’s one bolt back behind the lower tank of the radiator on the driver side which you have to be very careful removing so you don’t break your radiator. Otherwise definitely rent or go buy a Pitman arm puller to swap it onto a new box. Also a good time to replace your ancient power steering lines if you haven’t already. I unbolt the plate off the frame and then deal with getting it off the power steering box once I have it off the truck. You also have to drive a pin out of the steering shaft coupler as well as disassemble the rag joint to get the box off. You don’t have to disassemble the rag joint, but it makes putting it back together 1000 times easier. On a 2 Wheel Dr. it’s much easier since the box bolts to the frame in a different, much easier to access location. I actually run a custom steering now. It’s setup using a 1985 Chevy K10 steering box and steering arm along with 1ton Chevy tie rod ends for my draglink. And a different steering arm on the knuckle since my truck is lifted.
@@things7141 Hey thanks for the tipster ! I have a 1986 Dodge D150 Royal SE 2WD . So disconnect the mounting plate from the frame , then disassemble the rag joint , pop the roll pin out of the steering coupler where it connects to the input shaft , and then the pitman arm from the output shaft that connects to the center link ?
I would actually recommend disconnecting the power, steering lines and the steering shaft first. Then I would disconnect whatever steering links and try to pull the Pitman arm off the box while it’s still bolted to the truck. The last thing I would do is unbolt the box, so you’re not fighting any of the other connections with it dangling off the truck. It’s super heavy so you wouldn’t want it to be hanging by the lines. I think it’s even easier to remove on a 2 wheel drive, because I believe the box is just bolted straight to the frame, but I could be wrong. But yeah, basically take everything off the box before you unbolt the box. Also if I remember correctly, the big nut holding the Pitman arm on the box is an 1-1/4 inches. But a large crescent wrench will work just fine. Getting the Pitman arm off the steering box can be a real pain sometimes even with the correct puller. You may have to put tension on it. And then beat the hell out of it to get it to come off. And then make sure that you clock it correctly when you put it on the new box. The new box should come set up for the wheels to be pointing straight so that is how you should take your truck apart.
Great video, no family stories or repeating yourself 5 times. Well Done. Question, if my key turns and starts the truck and turns back off, but will not return to the "key remove" position, What component do you think needs to be replaced?
Pulling apart a 1987 dodge dakota no tilt no air bag, Your video was spot on until I got to the blinker plate, I have another plastic plate below it and above the wheel lock and it won't budge at all and all screws are out but theres some sort of spring tension on it I think. Any clue on what to do?
Wow, The one in my 1st Car "1970 Chrysler Newport" was just like this!, My guess all Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth's with non tilt column were like this 1970 till late 80s
The ignition in my 86 dodge D350 has been getting more and more temperamental. If I don't have the keys hanging off the front side of the tumbler/switch, the truck will die while driving down the road. It has to be in just the right position in order for the truck to stay running. Is it the tumbler/cylinder part with the key that is bad? Or is it the actual switch on the other side of the column that has the wires that need to be snaked down the inside of the column? Or do I need to replace both pieces? Thanks in advance for your help! Great video!
Great video my only concern is, is there anyway to get the switch out if you don’t have the key, my grandfather lost the key before he passed away so we’re trying to get his truck back running thanks so much!
Not that I know of. I have been able to just put the steering wheel back on and use it to pull up on to get that snap ring on it’s definitely possible but it’s a lot more difficult.
@@things7141 the wires look like they just got straight to the half moon shaped connector. From what I found online a mechanical linkage from the key switch through the steering column is what changes the position of the
@@things7141 perhaps though, but from what I can find online the ignition switch where the key goes just moved a linkage connected to the actual electrical contacts ignition switch mounted lower down the steering column. From there it goes to the half moon shaped connector. Learning all about this because my defroster fan stopped working...its breaker is only energized when the key switch is in the run position. That set of contacts in my ignition switch are burned out. Thank you for the very informative video and your time.
what size hole did you have to drill in the angle iron to pull the steering shaft upward ? Also what size bolts thread into steering column to do the lifting ?
I’m pretty sure that was a 5/8 hole, might have been. A little larger. I know all the other holes were just 1/2 inch. The bolts I threaded into the wheel to pull it off were 3/8 by 16 and they were an inch long.
I didn’t thread anything into the column to pull the shaft back out. I believe I just had some 3 or 4 inch bolts upside down with the heads resting on the column.
thank you for telling me about the Cuda Cody steering column videos. I'm still unsure how to remove the bearing after removing the snap ring. all I want to do is to access my ignition switch. My bearing does not come off easily the way it does in this video.
You do not need the Keys to change the part or replace anything. The new lock tumbler will come with new keys. The new keys won’t match the door locks though..
Yes, you may have to either break off the little tab that sticks out when the key is in. I talk about it at 3:53 . If you can’t break it off then just drill the key out of the old cylinder. be careful though, don’t hit anything important, that’s what I don’t recommend drilling.
@@things7141 thanks man I'm just ready to fix it. Got it for 600$ with the broken ignition and no master cylinder it's the Royal special edition w250 and its so clean
So would this help my 85 d150... I turn the key and no power it turns on but won't start my truck... I replaced the starter and starter relay so next im thinking ignition switch is the problem so thank you for this video...
You will most likely have to find one from a junkyard, Chrysler used this same steering column for many years in many different vehicles, it souldent be too difficult to find one.
What if you don't have a key there Einstein.... Nobody ever shows how to replace one if you don't have a key.... I guess you just drill it out until it turns but at that point who needs a key anyway....🤷🤷🤷...
I know I didn’t show the swapping of the actual switch itself in this video, but if you really need me to show you routing some wires and dropping the little panel under the steering column , then it’s time to put the tools down and go back inside lol.
Where can I buy both parts ignition switch and ignition tumbler
That's my Rv exact problem
I need both of the exact same parts that I can't find nowhere
I'm not kidding, that was one of the best instructional videos of any kind on YT. No Fluff, No wasted time, Just the Facts. I appreciated all the tips about removing the steering wheel, probably saved me from a bad mistake. The video was edited down to the essence of what we all wanted to know.
Excellent job, Liked and Subscribed.
thank
I agree.
AMEN BRO!! From this dumb girl. Thank you for refreshing my memory honey.
This is an incredibly helpful video, thank you for making this! The locksmith quoted $350 to do this job, so i started to look for info on how to do this myself. The new key cylinder was $24 and with this video I saved a lot of money.
Ditto!
Great video. As a side note I didn’t have the stuff to make the tool to pull the steering shaft out, but I got a helper and was able to pull the shaft out enough by hand for him to get the snap ring into the channel. Thanks for the video. I would have struggled without ir
Thanks for the video. I've been beside my self trying to figure out how it goes back together.
Thank you for this awesome clear and concise video. The step-by-step instructions were exactly what I needed to change the ignition cylinder in my 1985 Dodge D350. I could not slide my key all the way in the ignition cylinder lock which of course is necessary to start the truck. I'm guessing the tumblers had enough after 39 years. I installed the new ignition cylinder lock with no trouble. In case no one mentions it below, to pull the steering wheel, you need 3/8" bolts with 16 thread count.
Words can't express how grateful I am of this video. Simple instructions that are straight to the point, no filler content, just an overall fantastic video. You just saved me a lot of headache, and worry, with having to dive head first into a job I haven't had to do yet
Showed me everything I needed to know. I truly wasn’t expecting a video this precise.
Key will not go into my ignition cylinder in my 85 D150.. am asssuming the internal pins /tumblers /springs have worn out.. Gonna HAVE to replace the cylinder, this video is perfect, thank you so much!
and the homemade pullers say you are one smart summagun.... hats off to ya..
Thank you very good details , I’m replacing the ignition tumbler on my 85 w150 today , I’ve done it on my 01 ford and it was as simple as one push pin and pull the whole tumbler out , I knew the old dodge was gonna be way more of a pain in the ass lol
I Want to thank you. Very hard to find any info on the Dodge D150. I just finished replacing the ignition switch and key lock. Mine is an 87 the only difference was my 87 has cruise control on the boiler switch. So it had a wire connected to the blinker handle that was kinda in the way. You are correct on replacing the ignition switch. Fishing it was not fun. Removed the fuse panel and a piece of the dash under the steering column made it easier.
Man this is the best video and helped me so much I've got an 85 it's got a short and every time I turn the kids shorts out the ignition pack
Tight video indeed. Nice editing. Here is what you are going to, here is what it looks like when done, here is the next step. I dont need to see someone unscrewing a nut or screw.
Super helpful, made my own jig last night to pull the wheel on my ‘78 power wagon D100 and replaced the blinker assembly. Thanks.
Concise. Direct. To the point. Home made tools for getting it done. Very well done, lad! Very well done indeed! I was just wanting to know what tools I'd need for the lock plate, (I have the GM tool) but now i see that I'll probably have to obtain the mounting screws for the ignition switch. I got a basket case with the switch dangling below the column!
No way! I've been watching your videos since before I could even drive and I still do. I had to laugh at you wrestling that Chevy cab up on that trailer because that was me about 2 months back wrestling the bed back on my truck all alone in the snow. Your a legend in my mind sir, keep up the good work.
As for your steering column, I don't know what year you have or if its a standard or tilt column. The lock plate on non-tilt columns just slides right off no tools required. If you have a tilt column they are quite a bit more complicated, I've never messed with one myself so unfortunately I'm of no use to you there, but I know you can figure it out. Chrysler used those same columns for years and I do have a diagram of a tilt one blown apart saved somewhere..... I guess I can find it and link it if you want it.
My father shares the same name as you, which makes you easy to remember, but he has a 49, 5-window, 3600 with a 4 on the floor. Been fighting making the roll up windows work as no one makes the correct replacement actuators or tracks for a 49, got one side figured out with 1955 parts and rollers, just have to do it all over again on the other side, just wish the inside of the door would quit trying to cut my arms off.
I appreciate the comment and I'm happy to answer any other questions, take care.
Thank you, the snap ring was killing me
Great video exactly what video of this sort should be zero b s straight to the point . Much appreciated thank you keep making videos you are a real asset to the community
Great video man .... thank you for time. You just dont know how much you help others ....
Thanks for this video man! Had to jack my own W250 after losing my keys and the ignition switch took a shit after cranking on it with a bar wrench for a few weeks so gonna be referencing this when the parts come in this week. Cheers!
when you pull the ignition wiring out tie a wire to the end to act as a fish tape for the replacement.
Thanks Things! I just replaced the ignition switch on my ‘89. A few minor differences, but your vid worked perfectly. One task scratched off!!
really nice job done on your video, thanks.
Excellent instructional video. Thanks.
Rad! I'm replacing my switch on my '77 w200
Really tight video, thank you. On the phillips screws into aluminum, a tight bit and an impact driver is helpful.
LIFE SAVER !!
Great video - thanks for posting!
Hey hey hey hey hey, thank you I saved this one Gigglesnort
Thanks for the content.
Awsome video man... step by step instructions I love it ... thanks again videos like this help people all around the world... keep up the good work
This video shows so much so quickly- no waste. Extremely useful. I have an automatic on the column 70 cuda. I've removed the first snap ring, but the next cover is not coming off. Next to this cover are the drive-reverse indicators. Any advice?
Any luck. I have a 75 d100 manual and I can't get it off. Pulled the snap ring and all screws
? Did you get it off? Ty
Awesome vid....great job is what I did as well....MOPAR 4 EVER.
This was just what I needed
This helped me to change the turn signal switch in a 82. Thank you!
Nice clean install I’ve gotta do this to my 92 ramcharger. Thx
Dude your a life saver
Next Instructional Video: Tips on what makes a great instructional video.
Well done!
That was an excellent video ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with handling this chore .
Have you ever swapped out the power steering gear box ? Mine is leaking it appears to be at the input shaft where the steering coupler connects .
I have replaced the steering gearbox on mine two times, it’s not hard. It’s a little bit trickier on a four-wheel-drive because the box is mounted to a plate that then bolts to the frame, and there’s one bolt back behind the lower tank of the radiator on the driver side which you have to be very careful removing so you don’t break your radiator. Otherwise definitely rent or go buy a Pitman arm puller to swap it onto a new box. Also a good time to replace your ancient power steering lines if you haven’t already.
I unbolt the plate off the frame and then deal with getting it off the power steering box once I have it off the truck. You also have to drive a pin out of the steering shaft coupler as well as disassemble the rag joint to get the box off.
You don’t have to disassemble the rag joint, but it makes putting it back together 1000 times easier.
On a 2 Wheel Dr. it’s much easier since the box bolts to the frame in a different, much easier to access location.
I actually run a custom steering now. It’s setup using a 1985 Chevy K10 steering box and steering arm along with 1ton Chevy tie rod ends for my draglink. And a different steering arm on the knuckle since my truck is lifted.
@@things7141 Hey thanks for the tipster ! I have a 1986 Dodge D150 Royal SE 2WD .
So disconnect the mounting plate from the frame , then disassemble the rag joint , pop the roll pin out of the steering coupler where it connects to the input shaft , and then the pitman arm from the output shaft that connects to the center link ?
I would actually recommend disconnecting the power, steering lines and the steering shaft first. Then I would disconnect whatever steering links and try to pull the Pitman arm off the box while it’s still bolted to the truck. The last thing I would do is unbolt the box, so you’re not fighting any of the other connections with it dangling off the truck. It’s super heavy so you wouldn’t want it to be hanging by the lines.
I think it’s even easier to remove on a 2 wheel drive, because I believe the box is just bolted straight to the frame, but I could be wrong.
But yeah, basically take everything off the box before you unbolt the box.
Also if I remember correctly, the big nut holding the Pitman arm on the box is an 1-1/4 inches. But a large crescent wrench will work just fine.
Getting the Pitman arm off the steering box can be a real pain sometimes even with the correct puller. You may have to put tension on it. And then beat the hell out of it to get it to come off.
And then make sure that you clock it correctly when you put it on the new box. The new box should come set up for the wheels to be pointing straight so that is how you should take your truck apart.
@@things7141 Thank you very much the pointers ! Much appreciated 🙏
What size bolts did you use to make steering wheel puller?
Super helpful and good video
Thanks for telling me about Cuda Cody's steering shaft video which shows some extra steps/tools for 70-71 E & A bodies.
Great video. This is going to be a great tool for me next weekend
@@things7141 yup they are! I bought all new parts and replace everything.
Great video thanks a lot.
Great video, no family stories or repeating yourself 5 times. Well Done. Question, if my key turns and starts the truck and turns back off, but will not return to the "key remove" position, What component do you think needs to be replaced?
What size tires are on the truck? They look great.
Pulling apart a 1987 dodge dakota no tilt no air bag, Your video was spot on until I got to the blinker plate, I have another plastic plate below it and above the wheel lock and it won't budge at all and all screws are out but theres some sort of spring tension on it I think. Any clue on what to do?
Excellent video!
Wow, The one in my 1st Car "1970 Chrysler Newport" was just like this!, My guess all Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth's with non tilt column were like this 1970 till late 80s
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!
Very helpful thanks n
The ignition in my 86 dodge D350 has been getting more and more temperamental. If I don't have the keys hanging off the front side of the tumbler/switch, the truck will die while driving down the road. It has to be in just the right position in order for the truck to stay running. Is it the tumbler/cylinder part with the key that is bad? Or is it the actual switch on the other side of the column that has the wires that need to be snaked down the inside of the column? Or do I need to replace both pieces? Thanks in advance for your help! Great video!
I can’t find anything wrong with this video. I like your home made steering wheel tools, no need to buy expensive ones that do the same thing.
Thank you for the explanation
Excellent
Great video my only concern is, is there anyway to get the switch out if you don’t have the key, my grandfather lost the key before he passed away so we’re trying to get his truck back running thanks so much!
Yea, you don’t need the key to get the ignition switch out. It will wiggle out with out it.
What size bolts (thread pitch and all) on the ones you used to pull steering wheel?
Hello. I know it's an old video, but do you know if I can take the ignition switch out with out having the key
Is there a special tool for getting the column back up to put the c clip on? I dont have bolts and angle iron around lol
Not that I know of. I have been able to just put the steering wheel back on and use it to pull up on to get that snap ring on it’s definitely possible but it’s a lot more difficult.
Ok. GRACIAS, THANK YOU
What size bolts were on the puller?
Good day dude...I am wondering if you have dealt with the ignition switch on a tilt wheel column and linkage etc...?
I have not, I imagine those would be more complicated. perhaps you could find an exploded-view diagram of one somewhere online.
@@things7141 the wires look like they just got straight to the half moon shaped connector. From what I found online a mechanical linkage from the key switch through the steering column is what changes the position of the
@@things7141 perhaps though, but from what I can find online the ignition switch where the key goes just moved a linkage connected to the actual electrical contacts ignition switch mounted lower down the steering column. From there it goes to the half moon shaped connector. Learning all about this because my defroster fan stopped working...its breaker is only energized when the key switch is in the run position. That set of contacts in my ignition switch are burned out. Thank you for the very informative video and your time.
what size hole did you have to drill in the angle iron to pull the steering shaft upward ? Also what size bolts thread into steering column to do the lifting ?
I’m pretty sure that was a 5/8 hole, might have been. A little larger. I know all the other holes were just 1/2 inch. The bolts I threaded into the wheel to pull it off were 3/8 by 16 and they were an inch long.
I didn’t thread anything into the column to pull the shaft back out. I believe I just had some 3 or 4 inch bolts upside down with the heads resting on the column.
thank you for telling me about the Cuda Cody steering column videos. I'm still unsure how to remove the bearing after removing the snap ring. all I want to do is to access my ignition switch. My bearing does not come off easily the way it does in this video.
We lost the keys to our 87. Do we have to have the keys to change out the tumbler?
You do not need the Keys to change the part or replace anything. The new lock tumbler will come with new keys. The new keys won’t match the door locks though..
Will this work for a 1986 power ram w250? It seems like it would only problem is the half the key is broke off in the tumbler
Yes, you may have to either break off the little tab that sticks out when the key is in. I talk about it at 3:53 . If you can’t break it off then just drill the key out of the old cylinder. be careful though, don’t hit anything important, that’s what I don’t recommend drilling.
@@things7141 thanks man I'm just ready to fix it. Got it for 600$ with the broken ignition and no master cylinder it's the Royal special edition w250 and its so clean
So would this help my 85 d150... I turn the key and no power it turns on but won't start my truck... I replaced the starter and starter relay so next im thinking ignition switch is the problem so thank you for this video...
My ground wire went bad somehow on my starter relay in the engine bay, ran independent wire from relay to chassis and starter worked like magic
@@blakenorman4822 so it was my starter relay switch it had slipped out.
That was a great video,show and explained alot..hope I don't have to do that tho ha..hopes it's just my relay.on my 1978 ha
What were the symptoms for you to replace this
With taking out the cylinder what if you don’t have the key?
You don’t need the key
Hey that puller, what size of bolts are those
They are 3/8 by 16 threads and they were an 1” long.
i lost a key... would it work with no key? im trying to chage everything!
No you do not need your keys to change the lock tumbler. When you buy a new one it comes with keys. However it will not match the locks for the doors.
The ignition switch has nothing to do with the keys. And is a separate part.
What year is this truck
1986
I have an 84 and it looks really different, it doesn't have the same ignition switch
omg ok so can someone please send me to where to find the "long skinny bolt with the pin on there" it's exactly why my blinker isn't working
You will most likely have to find one from a junkyard, Chrysler used this same steering column for many years in many different vehicles, it souldent be too difficult to find one.
What if you don't have a key there Einstein.... Nobody ever shows how to replace one if you don't have a key.... I guess you just drill it out until it turns but at that point who needs a key anyway....🤷🤷🤷...
Hint: you don’t need the keys at all.
You can wiggle everything out without them.