Thanks for the videos . You have shown more detail in your work than any other that I have watched . This will be very helpful . I was just given a 2005 that was diagnosed with a cracked head. I'm sure I will be reviewing these posts many times. I am so grateful for youtube and people like you who take the time and effort to do these tutorials!
I pulled mine with the intake attached to the head. I then disassembled the intake from the head on my bench. At the same time I pulled all the plugs out and the rocker assembly and cam so I could prep my head for it's machine shop visit. Also parts stores like AutoZone carry a special socket that's like 3 pounds. It slams that bolt off no problem when a regular 19 mm socket won't.
well Matt, you have inspired me to do and redux this repair as well as instructions....I replaced the head gasket with a gasket I purchased on amazon. well It was cheap. not...I did take the head and had it machined and checked...looked nice, I put it back together and started it and let it idle..thru a code on a.i.c...no problem, I checked all the various relays, concerning the fans and all of that stuff, I drove it to mail box, about a 1/2 mile..it heated up. Let me tell anyone else who thinks cheap..don't. You will be back into it again. Buy Honda gasket and bolts for sure. I did not. I am back here looking at the video to remember how to remove the intake nuts on the bottom. The bolts I bought were not the right ones. I purchased them from napa. They assured me they were the correct bolts, even though they were different looking..they had a spiral cut from the head down to the threads. I asked all who would listen to me..I was assured they were right, well they were not...again buy your parts from honda and pay the extra bucks. These bolts after torquing to spec, just didnt seem right, I should have stopped as you did and went and bought bolts and gasket from honda, but I thought, naw.....well its funny now but I am not laughing.... just sharing my experience and to encourage Matt for his videos and instructions...well done...this car had 200,000 miles as well, and I thought about getting another motor....still might do it or drag it across the scales, if this doesnt work....also replaced all the belts, water pump etc...we will see this weekend whether it works....again buy Honda gasket and bolts...
Good luck!! Many of my viewers advised me to use some extreme pressure engine assembly lube under the bolt heads to avoid the "popping" while torquing down. Also, you should do a leak down test like I do in the video to make sure there are no leaks (especially into the coolant jackets).
Extra pressure assembly lube! Will have to get this and antiseize compound for every bolt and nut I take out. What do you recommend to lube up the bolts?
Hey are you sure it isn't a cracked block or cracked cylinder wall? I have the same issue I drive a quarter of a mile and it overheats. Have the head gasket changed and it was fine. I am going to take your advice and buy all OEM head gasket. Let me ask you, do you think all the other gaskets need to be replaced too even if they were recently replaced? Like the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets? Also, can't this job be done without taking off the throttle body assembly. I am at the step where the fuel rail is off and about to take off the two long 12mm nuts at 6:12 in the video but thinking I could still take the head off without taking off the whole throttle body assembly.
Thanks for the video man. Sisters bf bought a 03 two weeks ago, and the head gasket just went. Felt bad for him, so I'm helpin him out, and your contents is helping me out. Cheers from Ontario
Nice walk through on this, in the process of doing this to my 03 non vtec with 228000 on it. Probably cost some extra money giving the head to the machine shop with the cam and lifters still in it like that, I stripped mine totally down. Hope to get mine back next week, he told me 90 bucks to clean it up, pressure test the valves and resurface it, thats if the valves are all good and no leaks. Would be around 280 to do a full tear down, really no point in doing that if the valves are not leaking though. My civic has been a darn good car, first time I have ever had any problems with this car in 13 years so I can't really complain.
I removed my head from my 01 Civic today and when I did I barley loosed the head bolts. I barley turned them just a hair and I did it all in sequence. Well to my surprise the machine shop said the head was perfect and did not need machining. This car over heated several times, in fact it had been over heating for about 6 years because 6 years ago the head gasket blew. But the only problem is the cylinder was forcing air into the coolant and this is why I was able to drive it for so long. I just had to make sure there was enough coolant before I drove. So my point is that loosing the head bolts in sequence seems to really work and 1/3 of a turn might be OK but I was doing like 1/20 of a turn. I was being really careful not to do it wrong.
Slid back the intake this afternoon, you can leave the top center 12mm nut but remove the two longer 12mm ones on the top. Then five in total 12mm lower nuts. Two on the sides can be taken off from above. Removed three lower middle 12mm nuts from underneath the car and removed the two brackets held on by 10mm bolts for access, and removed the oil filter also, so that a 12mm wrench had room to swing (with a 14mm wrench hooked onto it for extra leverage). Undid the 1-wire connector from the oil pressure switch also. Do not need to remove the fuel rail or injectors at all, just unplug the injector wire connectors. Did not need to remove throttle cables. Removed a bracket holding two heater hoses so the intake could be slid away from the motor.
I did not have to do all that work at the bottom of the engine. I did not have to remove the crank pulley. I just disconnected the tension spring and used a bungee cord to hold the belt up. So when I put it back together the belt will be in the same place. I did put it in time and I marked the place of the belt with a white paint pen.
Shane71170 can u explain this a bit more? I'm a bit afriad of the timing cuz you can damage the engine if done wrong so trying to do it the easiest way . So u didnt even remove the pulley on the top either? U actually removed the tensioner or just made it release pressure to get belt off?
Yes, I did have to remove the pulley at the top. Before you take the top pulley off make a mark on the belt and bully so you know where it came off. Make sure you got timing marks lined up Remove the spring from the tensioner and make sure the belt does not move. Then while removing the belt from the top pulley keep it tight and hold it tight with a bungee cord, if you let it come loose it may go out of timing. Keep the bungee on the belt until you are ready to put it back together.
Actually, length along the axial direction does not give you more torque (it actually steals torque due to some of the energy going into flexing/twisting the shaft). The extra torque you think you are getting are given by many subtle differences in how you use the tool based on whether it is short or long. For example, a longer screw driver often times has a bigger handle, which produces a bigger moment arm for producing torque. See this link for a good explanation. physics.stackexchange.com/questions/149314/does-screwdriver-length-matter
It's all good. Myself getting old I've gotten all the long ratchets in the last year, 15" 3/8, 24" 1/2. Makes it so much easier not having to use brute strength.
great video, two things. First I found it much easier to leave the intake on when I pulled the head. Then I removed it on the bench. Second do you know the proper location for the alignment sleeves?
Hey Boosted Jeep, I am at the step where the 12mm nuts are to come off. How do you leave on the throttle body assembly? I am at this step and would like to leave it on. Just not sure what to do here.
That probably would be a lot easier because for the life of me I cannot get the nuts loose in between the intake ports at the top of the head so maybe when I get it out on the bench I will be able to get it from underneath I have a set of gear wrenches Craftsman and my wrench just will not get on the nut from the top angle anyway. I'm no mechanic so I greatly appreciate the chatter when right now I am stuck or would be stuck lol
I'm doing the head gasket on my 05 in about 4 hours, Ive done many singles, but none on em2. You shoulda taken out the head with the intake manifold on, those bolts are a bitch! I'm used to taking the manifold off and just pushing it back away from the head, but it looks like in these em2's, there is no room to do that.
I was going to ask about this, do you need you really need to remove the whole throttle body assembly to do this job? I need to take out the cylinder head. I am at the step right now where I have the fuel rail off and about to take off those two long 12mm nuts. What should I do instead if I just want to take the head off. I'd rather not have to take off the whole throttle body assembly if I don't have to. Just not sure what to do.
Wish you could fix mine, same problem just found out today it’s a blown head gasket reservoir was full and squirting antifreeze, battery was covered in white as well as other parts of my car, 04 Civic
As far as head gasket jobs go, I have done way worse. The worst kinds are the V6 engines that are mounted transverse, so one of the heads is way in the back towards the firewall. What sucked about this one was the bolt popping issues, however, my viewers have since directed me to a lubricant to put on the bolts to hopefully mitigate such issues.
First of all thank you for making this video! I expect this to save me a lot of money. Did you skip a step on the exhaust manifold? When I removed the nuts on top mine would not move more than 1/8" until I disconnected a bracket on the bottom and the exhaust pipe coupling.
Hi! Greats vids. Major thing I'm missing and the haynes manual doesnt explain. How do you put the engine on a jackstand and also somehow lift the whole car up to get underneath for the intake manifold? Also, the views you show of the timing belt removal. Are you doing that through the wheel well? If so, again, how do you jack it up and remove the wheel and somehow keep the engine in place on the jackstand? Cheers
Hello I truly appreciate your video and has given me the courage to try it out but i think i bite more than i could chew on this project. Anyway I have almost the same case as yours where a friend of mine asked me to help him with his valve covers gasket and inspection from the mechanic said he needed to change gasket and timing belt and water pump, well everything was going fine until the harmony balancer part. i was not able to break the nut and in the process happened to turn it clockwise instead of counter clockwise and so now wondering if it will line up at TDC. Also it had asked us to change both the coolant lines. Any ideas i am most appreciated. thank you
Don't bother getting it aligned until you break the bolt loose. Once you break it loose, run it back down snug with an impact and then align everything.
He just needs a better air impact gun, the one that cost $500. Even in the snow states the crank comes off with ease. Getting the crank pulley to come off is another story.
I thought you had to remove all the valves and the cam before taking it to the Machine Shop? I'm in the middle of this project any help would be greatly appreciated. Also are you able to clean it up yourself instead of taking it to the Machine Shop or is that a bad idea
Hey matt, what is the name of that whole assembly you remove 22:59 that has the egr valve attached to it? I am having a major oil leak coming from underneath that area dripping down to the front transmission housing. I haven't check the vtec solenoid gasket. Is it possible that its coming from this assembly that you removed because it has a gasket too?
The place the EGR valve attaches to has EGR passages and coolant passages, not oil. If you are seeing oil from that area then it is likely the VTEC solenoid that is leaking and needs a new gasket.
The engine goes counter clockwise. I currently have the crankshaft pulley tool rented from autozone. Not sure how to get it off. Also, do you recommend taking the engine mount off before or after taking the crankbolt off?
Can anyone offer any advice on the intake manifold removal. I have been on that portion for days and cannot figure what is holding it on. Removed the nuts from the underside. And removed four from the top not including the ones that are way deep from the top that the video mentioned did not need to be removed.
I struggled with that too. If you loosen the exhaust bracket a little bit down the exhaust you'll find it. It's right at the bottom of the engine bay, can't miss it. Gives you enough slack to get it off
My 03 honda civic ex needs a head gasket replacement. I was quoted $1300-$1600. I'm a single mom and don't have that at all. I've had my car for 4 years now. Rent in Cali is kicking my ass. I also haven't been able to work due to 3 herniated cervical discs. FML. This will be my next project.
MattsMotorz ok thanks! I was able to find one really close to me! Thanks again for these videos. I'm gonna do a head gasket myself and can't find any clearer instruction than this one! Props to you my friend! Have a good day!
![Head Gasket Replacement: Part 3 [2003 Honda Civic]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GpVBIfBBDEY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Head Gasket Replacement: Part 3 [2003 Honda Civic]](/img/tr.png)
![Head Gasket Replacement: Part 1 [2003 Honda Civic]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hxmNKcKz6f4/mqdefault.jpg)
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Thanks for the videos . You have shown more detail in your work than any other that I have watched . This will be very helpful . I was just given a 2005 that was diagnosed with a cracked head. I'm sure I will be reviewing these posts many times. I am so grateful for youtube and people like you who take the time and effort to do these tutorials!
I pulled mine with the intake attached to the head. I then disassembled the intake from the head on my bench. At the same time I pulled all the plugs out and the rocker assembly and cam so I could prep my head for it's machine shop visit. Also parts stores like AutoZone carry a special socket that's like 3 pounds. It slams that bolt off no problem when a regular 19 mm socket won't.
Once I got to the part where you were using a torch...it was at that moment I decided to hire a shop to complete the job! Great video!
There’s a seal behind that nut tho
@@save2rave61 usually you replace that Crank seal when doing this job. I will replace it everytime since you are allready there.:)
I admire your knowledge and patience....no way in the world would i attempt this
well Matt, you have inspired me to do and redux this repair as well as instructions....I replaced the head gasket with a gasket I purchased on amazon. well It was cheap. not...I did take the head and had it machined and checked...looked nice, I put it back together and started it and let it idle..thru a code on a.i.c...no problem, I checked all the various relays, concerning the fans and all of that stuff, I drove it to mail box, about a 1/2 mile..it heated up. Let me tell anyone else who thinks cheap..don't. You will be back into it again. Buy Honda gasket and bolts for sure. I did not. I am back here looking at the video to remember how to remove the intake nuts on the bottom. The bolts I bought were not the right ones. I purchased them from napa. They assured me they were the correct bolts, even though they were different looking..they had a spiral cut from the head down to the threads. I asked all who would listen to me..I was assured they were right, well they were not...again buy your parts from honda and pay the extra bucks. These bolts after torquing to spec, just didnt seem right, I should have stopped as you did and went and bought bolts and gasket from honda, but I thought, naw.....well its funny now but I am not laughing.... just sharing my experience and to encourage Matt for his videos and instructions...well done...this car had 200,000 miles as well, and I thought about getting another motor....still might do it or drag it across the scales, if this doesnt work....also replaced all the belts, water pump etc...we will see this weekend whether it works....again buy Honda gasket and bolts...
Good luck!! Many of my viewers advised me to use some extreme pressure engine assembly lube under the bolt heads to avoid the "popping" while torquing down. Also, you should do a leak down test like I do in the video to make sure there are no leaks (especially into the coolant jackets).
Extra pressure assembly lube! Will have to get this and antiseize compound for every bolt and nut I take out. What do you recommend to lube up the bolts?
Hey are you sure it isn't a cracked block or cracked cylinder wall? I have the same issue I drive a quarter of a mile and it overheats. Have the head gasket changed and it was fine. I am going to take your advice and buy all OEM head gasket. Let me ask you, do you think all the other gaskets need to be replaced too even if they were recently replaced? Like the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets?
Also, can't this job be done without taking off the throttle body assembly. I am at the step where the fuel rail is off and about to take off the two long 12mm nuts at 6:12 in the video but thinking I could still take the head off without taking off the whole throttle body assembly.
Thanks for the video man. Sisters bf bought a 03 two weeks ago, and the head gasket just went. Felt bad for him, so I'm helpin him out, and your contents is helping me out. Cheers from Ontario
Good luck! Thanks for watching!
I can't thank you enough for this video. You have been more helpful than the manual. I couldn't have done this without you.
Nice walk through on this, in the process of doing this to my 03 non vtec with 228000 on it. Probably cost some extra money giving the head to the machine shop with the cam and lifters still in it like that, I stripped mine totally down. Hope to get mine back next week, he told me 90 bucks to clean it up, pressure test the valves and resurface it, thats if the valves are all good and no leaks. Would be around 280 to do a full tear down, really no point in doing that if the valves are not leaking though. My civic has been a darn good car, first time I have ever had any problems with this car in 13 years so I can't really complain.
I removed my head from my 01 Civic today and when I did I barley loosed the head bolts. I barley turned them just a hair and I did it all in sequence. Well to my surprise the machine shop said the head was perfect and did not need machining. This car over heated several times, in fact it had been over heating for about 6 years because 6 years ago the head gasket blew. But the only problem is the cylinder was forcing air into the coolant and this is why I was able to drive it for so long. I just had to make sure there was enough coolant before I drove. So my point is that loosing the head bolts in sequence seems to really work and 1/3 of a turn might be OK but I was doing like 1/20 of a turn. I was being really careful not to do it wrong.
Slid back the intake this afternoon, you can leave the top center 12mm nut but remove the two longer 12mm ones on the top. Then five in total 12mm lower nuts. Two on the sides can be taken off from above. Removed three lower middle 12mm nuts from underneath the car and removed the two brackets held on by 10mm bolts for access, and removed the oil filter also, so that a 12mm wrench had room to swing (with a 14mm wrench hooked onto it for extra leverage). Undid the 1-wire connector from the oil pressure switch also. Do not need to remove the fuel rail or injectors at all, just unplug the injector wire connectors. Did not need to remove throttle cables. Removed a bracket holding two heater hoses so the intake could be slid away from the motor.
Working on my 05 Civic right now . These videos are a life saver . 5Stars for Matt
Thanks! Glad the videos helped! Good luck on the Civic!
How did it work out?
@@MiniaceX I broke a damn water pump bolt in the block 🤬🤬🤬... other than that pretty smooth !
I did not have to do all that work at the bottom of the engine. I did not have to remove the crank pulley. I just disconnected the tension spring and used a bungee cord to hold the belt up. So when I put it back together the belt will be in the same place. I did put it in time and I marked the place of the belt with a white paint pen.
Shane71170 can u explain this a bit more? I'm a bit afriad of the timing cuz you can damage the engine if done wrong so trying to do it the easiest way . So u didnt even remove the pulley on the top either? U actually removed the tensioner or just made it release pressure to get belt off?
Yes, I did have to remove the pulley at the top. Before you take the top pulley off make a mark on the belt and bully so you know where it came off. Make sure you got timing marks lined up Remove the spring from the tensioner and make sure the belt does not move. Then while removing the belt from the top pulley keep it tight and hold it tight with a bungee cord, if you let it come loose it may go out of timing. Keep the bungee on the belt until you are ready to put it back together.
Thank you for including the de-torquing procedure!
I would recommend extra long ratchets, combination wrenches, and flex head ratchets! It's amazing what an extra 6 inches does for torque!
Actually, length along the axial direction does not give you more torque (it actually steals torque due to some of the energy going into flexing/twisting the shaft). The extra torque you think you are getting are given by many subtle differences in how you use the tool based on whether it is short or long. For example, a longer screw driver often times has a bigger handle, which produces a bigger moment arm for producing torque. See this link for a good explanation.
physics.stackexchange.com/questions/149314/does-screwdriver-length-matter
I know. I'm not saying get a longer extension, longer wrench. 18 inch ratchet has lots more than an 8 inch.
Ah yes! Sorry, been a long day! Lol
It's all good. Myself getting old I've gotten all the long ratchets in the last year, 15" 3/8, 24" 1/2. Makes it so much easier not having to use brute strength.
Up next is the foot long quarter...
great video, two things. First I found it much easier to leave the intake on when I pulled the head. Then I removed it on the bench. Second do you know the proper location for the alignment sleeves?
Boosted Jeep AGREED! Came here to say this
Hey Boosted Jeep, I am at the step where the 12mm nuts are to come off. How do you leave on the throttle body assembly? I am at this step and would like to leave it on. Just not sure what to do here.
That probably would be a lot easier because for the life of me I cannot get the nuts loose in between the intake ports at the top of the head so maybe when I get it out on the bench I will be able to get it from underneath I have a set of gear wrenches Craftsman and my wrench just will not get on the nut from the top angle anyway. I'm no mechanic so I greatly appreciate the chatter when right now I am stuck or would be stuck lol
Not a bad idea. But I do not think you can leave it on when reinstalling the head because of the added weight might throw off your torque.
You need a Milwaukee impact for that bro
seeing you struggle with the crank bolt...
use a jack stand to lay the extension on. wala
Hey not a bad idea!
I'm doing the head gasket on my 05 in about 4 hours, Ive done many singles, but none on em2. You shoulda taken out the head with the intake manifold on, those bolts are a bitch! I'm used to taking the manifold off and just pushing it back away from the head, but it looks like in these em2's, there is no room to do that.
plenty of room. I didn't disconnect the fuel, throttle cables. Just removed the intake manifold from the head itself, and it came out no problem.
I was going to ask about this, do you need you really need to remove the whole throttle body assembly to do this job? I need to take out the cylinder head. I am at the step right now where I have the fuel rail off and about to take off those two long 12mm nuts. What should I do instead if I just want to take the head off. I'd rather not have to take off the whole throttle body assembly if I don't have to. Just not sure what to do.
Or just get a IR
this was a great video series thanks!
Wish you could fix mine, same problem just found out today it’s a blown head gasket reservoir was full and squirting antifreeze, battery was covered in white as well as other parts of my car, 04 Civic
Hell of a job isn't it? I'm doing it all right now. Every single piece of this is a whole production.
As far as head gasket jobs go, I have done way worse. The worst kinds are the V6 engines that are mounted transverse, so one of the heads is way in the back towards the firewall. What sucked about this one was the bolt popping issues, however, my viewers have since directed me to a lubricant to put on the bolts to hopefully mitigate such issues.
MattsMotorz what lubricant is that?
First of all thank you for making this video! I expect this to save me a lot of money. Did you skip a step on the exhaust manifold? When I removed the nuts on top mine would not move more than 1/8" until I disconnected a bracket on the bottom and the exhaust pipe coupling.
OMG This looks like it will take forever!
Hi! Greats vids. Major thing I'm missing and the haynes manual doesnt explain. How do you put the engine on a jackstand and also somehow lift the whole car up to get underneath for the intake manifold? Also, the views you show of the timing belt removal. Are you doing that through the wheel well? If so, again, how do you jack it up and remove the wheel and somehow keep the engine in place on the jackstand? Cheers
Hello I truly appreciate your video and has given me the courage to try it out but i think i bite more than i could chew on this project. Anyway I have almost the same case as yours where a friend of mine asked me to help him with his valve covers gasket and inspection from the mechanic said he needed to change gasket and timing belt and water pump, well everything was going fine until the harmony balancer part. i was not able to break the nut and in the process happened to turn it clockwise instead of counter clockwise and so now wondering if it will line up at TDC. Also it had asked us to change both the coolant lines. Any ideas i am most appreciated. thank you
Don't bother getting it aligned until you break the bolt loose. Once you break it loose, run it back down snug with an impact and then align everything.
I had to put the motor mount back on to remove the crank pulley bolt. The engine was lifting up so some of the torque was being wasted.
Matt I wish you could do my car need to get this done on my car. Great video .
He just needs a better air impact gun, the one that cost $500. Even in the snow states the crank comes off with ease. Getting the crank pulley to come off is another story.
You rock buddy.
That bolt on hondas is always on there tight lol
Hard work even with good tools !!
I thought you had to remove all the valves and the cam before taking it to the Machine Shop? I'm in the middle of this project any help would be greatly appreciated. Also are you able to clean it up yourself instead of taking it to the Machine Shop or is that a bad idea
They charge you extra to remove the valves and stuff. Isn't too much extra though. You can definitely clean it.
What do you think about copper spray a gasket?
Hey matt, what is the name of that whole assembly you remove 22:59 that has the egr valve attached to it? I am having a major oil leak coming from underneath that area dripping down to the front transmission housing. I haven't check the vtec solenoid gasket. Is it possible that its coming from this assembly that you removed because it has a gasket too?
The place the EGR valve attaches to has EGR passages and coolant passages, not oil. If you are seeing oil from that area then it is likely the VTEC solenoid that is leaking and needs a new gasket.
put a giant pipe on the end of the Ratchet
Good ole
Cheater pipe
@@seanm7539 Found out the hard way that a Crapsman extended handle, flexhead 1/2" ratchet won't hold up to a 10' pipe though.
How long did you keep the torch firing onto that nut? How long would you recommend keeping the torch on that?
Depending on the direction that the engine rotates, you can wedge a breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter to break the crankbolt loose.
shade watts hondas you cant sadly
The engine goes counter clockwise. I currently have the crankshaft pulley tool rented from autozone. Not sure how to get it off. Also, do you recommend taking the engine mount off before or after taking the crankbolt off?
This is why I paid 700 to get it done! WOW
He removed a lot more than required......
Did everything up to taking head off. It doesnt seem to budge at all and I don't want to bend it. Any suggestions
You removed all the bolts? Hit it with a soft mallet. You won't bend it!
Can anyone offer any advice on the intake manifold removal.
I have been on that portion for days and cannot figure what is holding it on. Removed the nuts from the underside. And removed four from the top not including the ones that are way deep from the top that the video mentioned did not need to be removed.
I struggled with that too. If you loosen the exhaust bracket a little bit down the exhaust you'll find it. It's right at the bottom of the engine bay, can't miss it. Gives you enough slack to get it off
what gasket was removed before the vtech solenoid?
Give me a time stamp to look and see. I am not going to search through the video.
@@MattsMotorz 21:40 I think hes talking about
What impact wrench is that? I'd like to purchase one :)
The electric one? I don't remember the exact model, but just search for something along the lines of "1/2" Ryobi electric impact wrench."
I'm exhausted watching this. How much should I expect to pay at a shop to fix the blown head gasket and new timing belt?
Lol, over a grand easy!
My 03 honda civic ex needs a head gasket replacement. I was quoted $1300-$1600. I'm a single mom and don't have that at all. I've had my car for 4 years now. Rent in Cali is kicking my ass. I also haven't been able to work due to 3 herniated cervical discs. FML. This will be my next project.
Please buy a good 1/2" drive twin hammer pneumatic impact gun OR a good high torque 24v or higher impact gun for loosening the crank pulley bolt.
To send that head to the machine shop, where would I do that and also is it required?
Google "automotive machine shop" in maps to see how close a machine shop is to you. It isn't REQUIRED, but it is highly recommended.
MattsMotorz ok thanks! I was able to find one really close to me! Thanks again for these videos. I'm gonna do a head gasket myself and can't find any clearer instruction than this one! Props to you my friend! Have a good day!
How much would a job like this cost total ?
how long did this take ...??
I think it took me about 2 weeks. Because I had to wait on ordering parts and machine work.
how about the head gasket if no glue to install its ok or not
Glue??
got my
Breaker bar
A lot of unnecessary work going here 🤔