Great video, I’ve been searching for hours and yours is the best, but the others did help bring me from clueless to confused. My system is very similar, so on top of well done video, works great for me. Though I look forward to updating y’all when I actually try it.
I still watch this video every year for a refresher!! I started using one way valve plugs from Aqua Group for my returns. It is way easier than trying to screw those standard plugs in with the pressure from a Cyclone blower. Otherwise, I end up soaking wet and freezing cold because I don't close mine until the water is 60 degrees. Also, the Gizmo doesn't seem sturdy once screwed into my skimmer, so I use a 2" x 20" piece of schedule 88 with a cap and just stuff the skimmer box and mouth full of noodles for expansion. It works great and I don't have to worry about that Gizmo getting pushed out of place by ice.
Excellent Illustration of winterizing the pool , very thorough, informative and I like the trade tricks in style ;) would definitely watch more of your upcoming vids.. keep it up..
OK, so I used this exact method last winter in Iowa on the exact same pool and a very similar set up. I did put a plug in the pump housing as well incase my air lock on the main drain didn't hold and it worked out great. The only other thing I did different was stuff the skimmer mouth full of pool noodles instead of using the empty antifreeze jug. Good thing I did because a few of them looked like they had the life squeezed right out of them. Either way, it makes me feel so much better knowing the cover is supported by the pool being full with our heavy snow loads that take months to melt away. I would also suggest taking the hit and purchasing a Cyclone to blow out your lines, or something similar. It will make your life a lot easier.
Can you list / give link to the winterization closing kit and type of anti freeze (for salt pool). Then also if there are 2 skimmers (20x40 pool) are you doing a full gallon for each skimmer? Also when you cap all the returns and have everything else closed and you still have air running checking for bubbles ... is that dangerous to build that air pressure in the pipes?
Hi I have a pool that I service it is a commercial one, I have blown the skimmer and vacuum lines but I suspect I didn't blow the main drain right because there is an equalizer line with the skimmer. The pools only has one return jet that isn't removable and a equalizer suction (it looks like an oversize smoke alarm), my question is, do these two need to be airlocked like the main drain? Do I need to cap the ips chemical hoses that go into the plumbing? Pool equipment is below the pool.
Yes quite accurate. We have pools on Lake Erie that take ALOT of snow and ice. So long as the water is pumped off and maintained as the melt occurs your fine. Some manufactures and builders install a winter cover and promote the winter cover because they dont trust the pool owner to keep the water off. Some people choose to use the winter cover because they think the autocover will last longer if they keep it rolled up and open for winter. That is not true or a factor.
We prefer cartridge filters because they are the lowest in PSI which is good for the pump and electric bill. They are also very easy to use and clean. They may not be 'better' for filtration then DE but overall are better because DE can be very tricky to operate for most homeowners.
Thank you - I prefer to do things myself and your detailed video walked me straight through each step. Only 1 question - how do you close a skimmer with 2 holes (equalizer) and how does it affect blowing out the main drain? With leaving water higher than the skimmer for the autocover things are a little more difficult...
If you have an equilizer line to your main drains (terrible way to plumb a pool BTW) you need to make yourself a riser with male adapter and ball valve. Blow the lines and then air lock the drains from the skimmer. Some will simply put another gizmo in and fill with antifreeze while hoping for the best. That is a bad plan.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving Thank you for the prompt response. The skimmer has 2 holes so assumed it's connected to main drain as equalizer - didn't know what it else it would be.
@@lightsonthehill8479 Your probably right. We install drains in the bottom of our skimmers and they have caps. If you have a hole and no send line coming to your pump you assumption is probably correct.
Thanks a million for the great video! One quick question: When plugging the return lines, I see you just hand tighten the plugs and that seems to suffice for not getting any air leakage. However, when I put my plugs in, I still get bubbles even if I crank on the plug with a wrench. I use plenty of tape on the threads and my compressor is only set to between 20 and 30 PSI. Any advice?
Not uncommon for a few bubbles. Most wall fittings are not designed to be the greatest seal even with an O ring. Thats ALOT of pressure to leave all winter. Just a few PSI (5-8) would be going above and beyond on an air lock. 20 -30 is a very needed risk.
Another thing check your return face plate. If it is cracked replaced it. That face plate helps the plug with the o-ring create a seal so if it’s crack it could potentially let air and water get through.
This is a fantastic demonstration of how to close a properly done in ground pool with an auto cover. I have yet to find another one. I do have a question though. When closing the skimmer, how does the antifreeze stay in the skimmer basket area without spilling into the rest of the pool, or does it?
We just built our first pool in an area that freezes COLD in the winter. We have two auto covers, one on the pool and one on a partially above ground spa. Our difference is that the equipment room is in a separate utility room in our basement BELOW pool level. (It was our only choice. More on that to come.) Will the air pump actually evacuate the lines and push the water UP, against gravity, and back into the pool? Won't the water come back into the lines? Especially the main drain. Our equipment room has two heaters, one for the pool and one for the spa. We have a drain in the floor, although not big enough if there were a catastrophic break. I have a water leak sensor and a temperature monitor that will each alert us if a leak occurs or the temp drops below a threshold. We'd like to keep the spa operating, although not 24/7. Any suggestions?
The process we laid out will work regardless of the elevation of the equipment pad. It MAY MEAN you need a more powerful blower though. If you are concerned you can use a 'Duck Plug' or 'Blow out' plug that works like a check valve. They do take more power to blow though. Make sure you run air though your spa jets on the water line AND the air lines simultaneously for a couple minutes. If you dont water will not be completly removed and will freeze. Rookie mistake - Dont forget that step. ITs easy to miss.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving thanks for the tips... especially on the spa. What about the pool main drain? That's my big concern, because you can't plug that. I most cases the equipment is above the drain so the air will get trapped at the top side when you close the drain valve. In our case, however, the pool drains towards the equipment pad and if the drain line was left open, the pool would drain into our basement. That's not the case with the equipment at ground level. Are you sure it works here too?
@@trishaevans1212 An air lock is the only option. Blow air through the drains until it is bubbling violently for at least 15 seconds.... then shut the valve to the drains to hold the air in the line.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving Great video thanks. I have a spill over spa. I'm not following what you mean by "Make sure you run air though your spa jets on the water line AND the air lines simultaneously". Is it really supposed to be spa jets and spa drains simultaneously? Thanks in advance.
@@jeffwilliams00 on any spa jet that has water and air, the air lines flood when off. If you only blow air through the waterlines there will ultimately be water left in the air lines which will freeze and break. By running air through both lines you ensure all water has been removed from the circuit and the Jets.
Great video, and the only one I have found that explains how to winterize a pool without draining it below the returns. I was wondering if you could explain, why do you only put antifreeze into the skimmer? Does it distribute through the return valves? I am just a little nervous that blowing out the returns With water still high in the pool will inevitably let some water creep back in to the return lines. Is it not enough to worry about? Or does the antifreeze in the skimmer distribute throughout the entire system?
The antifreeze does not distribute when poured into the skimmer. Rather it stays in the gizmo and in the vicinity of the skimmer plumbing. This is so that if the gizmo fails or leaks there is antifreeze in the plumbing as a secondary protection. If the other lines are blown clear and full of air there is nothing to freeze and antifreeze is not needed. Services that use GALLONS of antifreeze or lower the water below the returns have NO IDEA what they are doing.
Can I use the filter to suck the water out of the lines ??? I understand to put anti freeze in the skimmer lines but returns too also what do you use for blowing air thru lines dry vac ?? looks like you need to have a hose in the skimmer to get water out or turn filter on this would drain skimmer line?
If you mean using your pump to suck water out of the lines, then no do not do this. Eventually the water level will get too low and it will start sucking air, which is very bad for the pump. Also, once the pump starts sucking air your pump will lose it's prime, which will make it impossible to remove the excess water in the pipes. Most people use a compressor hooked up to the pump to blow out the lines
Our pool was closed today. They said they usually don't use antifreeze . The company has closed our pool the past 2 years. What would be going on next season if a line froze up:(
A spa blower will work in most all cases. That’s about the right price point for a an Amazon blower. We use a specific winterization blower for a pool with deep suction points or that is up a hill. Those are close to 1000.00
I need to know. How did your pool hold up through the winter? And I realize you are not asking me, but if my pool wasn't shut down just like this one I would be worried. But I also live in Iowa.
Hey I have an inground it was closed today. I have a safety mesh cover. Am I able to place a larger tarp over top of the mesh cover to keep rain and dirt from leaves to go through the mesh. I have bucket s to fill half with water to hold tarp pn
Great video, I’ve been searching for hours and yours is the best, but the others did help bring me from clueless to confused. My system is very similar, so on top of well done video, works great for me. Though I look forward to updating y’all when I actually try it.
I still watch this video every year for a refresher!! I started using one way valve plugs from Aqua Group for my returns. It is way easier than trying to screw those standard plugs in with the pressure from a Cyclone blower. Otherwise, I end up soaking wet and freezing cold because I don't close mine until the water is 60 degrees. Also, the Gizmo doesn't seem sturdy once screwed into my skimmer, so I use a 2" x 20" piece of schedule 88 with a cap and just stuff the skimmer box and mouth full of noodles for expansion. It works great and I don't have to worry about that Gizmo getting pushed out of place by ice.
Very helpful video, makes me feel confident enough to do it myself this year. THanks!!
Excellent Illustration of winterizing the pool , very thorough, informative and I like the trade tricks in style ;) would definitely watch more of your upcoming vids.. keep it up..
OK, so I used this exact method last winter in Iowa on the exact same pool and a very similar set up. I did put a plug in the pump housing as well incase my air lock on the main drain didn't hold and it worked out great. The only other thing I did different was stuff the skimmer mouth full of pool noodles instead of using the empty antifreeze jug. Good thing I did because a few of them looked like they had the life squeezed right out of them. Either way, it makes me feel so much better knowing the cover is supported by the pool being full with our heavy snow loads that take months to melt away. I would also suggest taking the hit and purchasing a Cyclone to blow out your lines, or something similar. It will make your life a lot easier.
Can you list / give link to the winterization closing kit and type of anti freeze (for salt pool). Then also if there are 2 skimmers (20x40 pool) are you doing a full gallon for each skimmer? Also when you cap all the returns and have everything else closed and you still have air running checking for bubbles ... is that dangerous to build that air pressure in the pipes?
Hi I have a pool that I service it is a commercial one, I have blown the skimmer and vacuum lines but I suspect I didn't blow the main drain right because there is an equalizer line with the skimmer. The pools only has one return jet that isn't removable and a equalizer suction (it looks like an oversize smoke alarm), my question is, do these two need to be airlocked like the main drain? Do I need to cap the ips chemical hoses that go into the plumbing? Pool equipment is below the pool.
That’s a lot of trust in that Gizmo.
This is by far the best info on a closing with an automatic cover. Is this method still effective in the northern states with extreme winters? Thanks
Yes quite accurate. We have pools on Lake Erie that take ALOT of snow and ice. So long as the water is pumped off and maintained as the melt occurs your fine. Some manufactures and builders install a winter cover and promote the winter cover because they dont trust the pool owner to keep the water off. Some people choose to use the winter cover because they think the autocover will last longer if they keep it rolled up and open for winter. That is not true or a factor.
@@leisurepoolsohio4216 Good to know. I’ll be moving forward this same method tomorrow. I just keep worrying about that main drain though. Thanks
Thanks for the video. Don't we need to do anything for the heater other than just blowing air thru it?
Depending on the heater make and model you may need remove a drain plug. You must check your specific manufactures manual.
Very thorough. Do you have an opinion of what type of water filter is the best? Looks like the removable filter is the easiest.
We prefer cartridge filters because they are the lowest in PSI which is good for the pump and electric bill. They are also very easy to use and clean. They may not be 'better' for filtration then DE but overall are better because DE can be very tricky to operate for most homeowners.
Thank you - I prefer to do things myself and your detailed video walked me straight through each step. Only 1 question - how do you close a skimmer with 2 holes (equalizer) and how does it affect blowing out the main drain? With leaving water higher than the skimmer for the autocover things are a little more difficult...
If you have an equilizer line to your main drains (terrible way to plumb a pool BTW) you need to make yourself a riser with male adapter and ball valve. Blow the lines and then air lock the drains from the skimmer. Some will simply put another gizmo in and fill with antifreeze while hoping for the best. That is a bad plan.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving Thank you for the prompt response. The skimmer has 2 holes so assumed it's connected to main drain as equalizer - didn't know what it else it would be.
@@lightsonthehill8479 Your probably right. We install drains in the bottom of our skimmers and they have caps. If you have a hole and no send line coming to your pump you assumption is probably correct.
Thanks a million for the great video! One quick question: When plugging the return lines, I see you just hand tighten the plugs and that seems to suffice for not getting any air leakage. However, when I put my plugs in, I still get bubbles even if I crank on the plug with a wrench. I use plenty of tape on the threads and my compressor is only set to between 20 and 30 PSI. Any advice?
Not uncommon for a few bubbles. Most wall fittings are not designed to be the greatest seal even with an O ring. Thats ALOT of pressure to leave all winter. Just a few PSI (5-8) would be going above and beyond on an air lock. 20 -30 is a very needed risk.
Another thing check your return face plate. If it is cracked replaced it. That face plate helps the plug with the o-ring create a seal so if it’s crack it could potentially let air and water get through.
This is a fantastic demonstration of how to close a properly done in ground pool with an auto cover. I have yet to find another one. I do have a question though. When closing the skimmer, how does the antifreeze stay in the skimmer basket area without spilling into the rest of the pool, or does it?
The antifreeze is put in the gizmo and capped. The line and gizmo stay full of antifreeze as a backup.
We just built our first pool in an area that freezes COLD in the winter. We have two auto covers, one on the pool and one on a partially above ground spa. Our difference is that the equipment room is in a separate utility room in our basement BELOW pool level. (It was our only choice. More on that to come.) Will the air pump actually evacuate the lines and push the water UP, against gravity, and back into the pool? Won't the water come back into the lines? Especially the main drain.
Our equipment room has two heaters, one for the pool and one for the spa. We have a drain in the floor, although not big enough if there were a catastrophic break. I have a water leak sensor and a temperature monitor that will each alert us if a leak occurs or the temp drops below a threshold. We'd like to keep the spa operating, although not 24/7. Any suggestions?
The process we laid out will work regardless of the elevation of the equipment pad. It MAY MEAN you need a more powerful blower though. If you are concerned you can use a 'Duck Plug' or 'Blow out' plug that works like a check valve. They do take more power to blow though. Make sure you run air though your spa jets on the water line AND the air lines simultaneously for a couple minutes. If you dont water will not be completly removed and will freeze. Rookie mistake - Dont forget that step. ITs easy to miss.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving thanks for the tips... especially on the spa. What about the pool main drain? That's my big concern, because you can't plug that. I most cases the equipment is above the drain so the air will get trapped at the top side when you close the drain valve. In our case, however, the pool drains towards the equipment pad and if the drain line was left open, the pool would drain into our basement. That's not the case with the equipment at ground level. Are you sure it works here too?
@@trishaevans1212 An air lock is the only option. Blow air through the drains until it is bubbling violently for at least 15 seconds.... then shut the valve to the drains to hold the air in the line.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving Great video thanks. I have a spill over spa. I'm not following what you mean by "Make sure you run air though your spa jets on the water line AND the air lines simultaneously". Is it really supposed to be spa jets and spa drains simultaneously? Thanks in advance.
@@jeffwilliams00 on any spa jet that has water and air, the air lines flood when off. If you only blow air through the waterlines there will ultimately be water left in the air lines which will freeze and break. By running air through both lines you ensure all water has been removed from the circuit and the Jets.
Great video, and the only one I have found that explains how to winterize a pool without draining it below the returns. I was wondering if you could explain, why do you only put antifreeze into the skimmer? Does it distribute through the return valves? I am just a little nervous that blowing out the returns With water still high in the pool will inevitably let some water creep back in to the return lines. Is it not enough to worry about? Or does the antifreeze in the skimmer distribute throughout the entire system?
The antifreeze does not distribute when poured into the skimmer. Rather it stays in the gizmo and in the vicinity of the skimmer plumbing. This is so that if the gizmo fails or leaks there is antifreeze in the plumbing as a secondary protection. If the other lines are blown clear and full of air there is nothing to freeze and antifreeze is not needed. Services that use GALLONS of antifreeze or lower the water below the returns have NO IDEA what they are doing.
Can I use the filter to suck the water out of the lines ??? I understand to put anti freeze in the skimmer lines but returns too also what do you use for blowing air thru lines dry vac ?? looks like you need to have a hose in the skimmer to get water out or turn filter on this would drain skimmer line?
If you mean using your pump to suck water out of the lines, then no do not do this. Eventually the water level will get too low and it will start sucking air, which is very bad for the pump. Also, once the pump starts sucking air your pump will lose it's prime, which will make it impossible to remove the excess water in the pipes. Most people use a compressor hooked up to the pump to blow out the lines
Excellent
When you plugged all four of the return lines, and the blower remained turned on, where did the air pressure clear the remaining water? or air?
The air stopped when the caps were installed. Turn the blower off as quickly or divert it to the next line to be cleared as soon as possible.
nice information, thank you 🙏
Those return lines don't get antifreeze?
what kind of dry vac is that? and that heater what do u charge to install ?
Can you elaborate a little on why you are putting noodles on the skimmer? Isn't that what the Gizmo is for? Is it for double protection
Yes it is double protection. The antifreeze that we put in is frankly tripple protection. We have never had a skimmer freeze that WE winterized.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving thx! Great video!
Our pool was closed today.
They said they usually don't use antifreeze .
The company has closed our pool the past 2 years.
What would be going on next season if a line froze up:(
What kind of Blower is that? Is it just a spa blower? The popular one on Amazon is $375.00
A spa blower will work in most all cases. That’s about the right price point for a an Amazon blower. We use a specific winterization blower for a pool with deep suction points or that is up a hill. Those are close to 1000.00
Hello , i live in Memphis, I just had my pool closed. Is a salt water system. The service people didn’t do anything like that.
Now I am worried!
I need to know. How did your pool hold up through the winter? And I realize you are not asking me, but if my pool wasn't shut down just like this one I would be worried. But I also live in Iowa.
@@cwsosby it did well but since I live on the south I don't think i will be closing it anymore
But doesn't the anti freeze come out the other end of skimmer by the filter /pump??
No it stays at the skimmer trap.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving skimmer trap please explain?
Do you close the drain in the bottom of the deep end?
Yes the drain must be 'air locked' and the valve closed. If water is left in the line it could freeze.
This is no DIY.
👎👎 needed to show what your actually doing that was so lame
He could not have made this video any better!!!
Hey I have an inground it was closed today.
I have a safety mesh cover.
Am I able to place a larger tarp over top of the mesh cover to keep rain and dirt from leaves to go through the mesh.
I have bucket s to fill half with water to hold tarp pn