I went 1 step further: the leak was between the valve and the rad, with the olive incorporated into the section of pipe between the two (the "tail" I think it's called) and no room to pull the nut back all the way; I wound the tape around 2 Lego round '1-ers' stuck together in a column, half the tape wound around each brick. I cut the tape along the line of the join, and separated the 2 bricks, each now a tiny reel of half-thickness tape, which was perfect for the job.
I know that feeling m8 and it's not just my house it's my mums house as well these days, just recently had same problem on her bathroom radiator. It took me about 5 tries before it stopped, nice tip with the smaller reel there. Now her bedroom one has started leaking from the top plug aaaaaaaaaaargh !!!
@@wagmiorngmi Microbore pipe is really crap. If I did installations, I would only use 15mm pipe minimum. I really hate this microbore stuff! Thanks for the comment
Hi, great video, followed your instructions, I didn’t have a sewing machine spool, but I cut off the top of a pencil and wrapped the PFE tape round it. I also like the idea of using blue roll to identify if the leak was fixed.
Thanks for this. I’ve got exactly same issue, looks identical to my radiator as well. Going to try this tomorrow. Just had brand new carpet fitted. So hopefully it goes ok!
Hi I had a similar problem a few years ago and had to drain the system to get at the leak. While I had the system drain down, I fitted in line stop valves to all the radiators (both sides) so if I have a problem now I can easily isolate any radiator, this has been useful and makes it a doddle to wallpaper or tile behind a radiator.
Thanks for video and tips 👍👍. It's never ending sometimes with houses. It's not just you every time I plan on going somewhere I always end up doing a job😬. Such is life 👍👍
Great, "get me out of trouble video" and hopefully a permanent fix sometimes its just about having courage to have a go .....hope you are feeling well in yourself after your recent problems
Couldn't agree more with the last comment regarding the sewing machine spool. When I think of how much tape I've messed up trying to wind it in a confined space.
By far a better fix is with hemp and paste, you don’t even need to de pressurise the system. We fitted a new Bosch 30Cdi to a working men’s club in Hemsworth, replacing an old conventional non- pressurised system. When we filled and pressurised the Bosch, 50% of the compression joints Leaked. Slack the back nut off and lower it down the pipe, it will dribble slightly but no gushing. Press gas paste up into the chrome fitting, pulling down slightly on the copper to pull the olive away. Then wrap in hemp and paste, allow the copper pipe back up to seat the olive and nip the fitting up. This worked first time every time, and with the heat passing through the fitting it will set hard and solid. Completed in 90 seconds per fitting.
At least in my house the pipework under the floorboards are free floating so when you into the nut there is the risk the feed pipe would drop out under the weight of the pipe and water in said pipe. It might be an idea to lightly clamp the pipe with an adjustable spanner or something first to reduce the risk of the pipe dropping out. Also for gravity feed systems maybe shut off the header tank out feed.
What a sight that would be. Imagine undoing the nut and the pipe just disappears underneath the floor, spraying water everywhere. I'm sat here laughing uncontrollably! Thanks for the tip though.
A great tip i used to do the same with good old hemp and boswhite.and a wedge down the side of the pipe just in case it dropped through the floorboards, cheers.
Hope you are on the mend, great tip especially using the sewing bobbin 👍🏻. The trouble with pressurised systems is that they tend to find weak points on systems that were installed some years ago. My lad has an old ½” drain cock that just continues to weep and is near to a very old radiator that needs replacing. So delaying to the summer. I’d contemplate installing a Magnaclease or something similar, you should be able to install that yourself and would aid having that system power flushed. BUT I could be wrong. Happy Sunday. 😊
I'm fine, thanks 👍 There is a magna-clean installed, but apparently it has been installed on it's side (horizontally, instead of vertically) Thanks for the comment 👍
Brilliant but how do I do the exact same to a downstairs radiator 😬 I’m a complete novice, not sure if I have to close down the whole system or not! Thanks
As long as you remove the pressure from the system it should be fine, but just be careful when you undo the valve nut, if water starts to come out, you might have to nip it back up and drain down the system. Thanks for the comment
Time to slap on a magna clean filter keep all the nasties out the system! Squeaky bum time when you loosen the rad valves or attempt to nip them up when full! I’ve had one go on me! Not great haha! Keep the videos coming mate! Always watched your channel!
There is a magna clean installed already. Yeah, it's a bit dodgy tightening them up, without draining down! A mate is coming round to flush it out and do a few remedial jobs on the system ;-) Thanks for the comment
A useful video; I don't have that type of heating, but it was interesting to watch the procedure. I liked the genius tip about putting the PTFE tape on a sewing bobbin to make it easier to use in constricted areas. The problem, though, is not everyone has a spare bobbin laying around unless they're married and their wife sews. Not that many women sew here in America, anymore; it's become a lost art. Overall, the only thing I would have done differently is use a combination wrench to remove/reinstall the compression nut. I don't like using adjustable wrenches as they can slip or open up, rounding-over a fastener. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Hadn’t thought of this, handy if you can’t drain the system down for whatever reason. Have you done a video on pipe freezing if you had to fix a leak on a mains pipe but couldn’t find or be able to shut the water off at the stopcock?
No, I've not done a pipe freeing video. In a lot of cases it is just easier to drain the system down (and much cheaper), also pipe freezing kits can't be used on running water and some of the ones I have seen are not suitable for mains pressure water. Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman I am on my 3rd freeze from one £20 can ! ok it was 8MM and i’ve not tried on 15mm yet. Stayed frozen for about 15mins. Anyhow it was very effective when upping feeds to 15mm for a towel rail. Give it a go. I found it was much less hassle and less expensive than draining the system and then adding inhibitor etc.
I had an old bit of lead pipe coming into my property with no stop cock to turn the water off . A few pal told me not to chance freezing it as it doesn’t work for running water at mains pressure .. guess what 4 cans later a hack saw and a very squeaky bum lol .It did actually freeze I had about 20 mins to get my lead lock on but it worked people 🙌
The pipe leading to the rad isn't completely straight. Could this be a cause or contributer to the leak? Or leaking in general? Also do you have a magnetic filter on your central heating system? Just curious as water was murky. Great tip re: PTFE tape.
I don't like small bore pipes on radiators, to be honest- but all the radiators in this house are piped up using microbore. All the radiator pipes are bent in the same fashion. There is a Magna-clean installed near the boiler. I'll be getting it flushed out ASAP ;-) Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman If all you radiator feed pipes are bent in the same fashion I am surprised that you are not having similar leaking problems around the house. Before you attempt fixing them yourself I would first suggest that you kick your heating engineer up the arse.
Nice video as usual. That central heating really needs a flush. I have heard the new combi boilers don’t really like messy systems as it may clog some sort of screen filters.
Yeah, you are not kidding! I've never seen water so dirty. We had a new combi boiler installed in 2013 and the system was power flushed and inhibitor added. I think there are a couple more leaks on the system (one more radiator pipe and a gate valve), once I've fixed them I'll sort out a power flush and some inhibitor. Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman did you see your plumber doing the power flush? I find hard to believe he did the power flush and 6 years down the road the system is so dirty... or if he did the power flush he possibly didn’t add the inhibitor. You better do it yourself so you know it will be done properly. 👍
No, I didn't see him do the power flush, but he is a good guy, so I doubt he would not have done it, or added the inhibitor. We have had a few leaks at radiators, so perhaps the system is sucking in air at some point. I'm going to check for leaks at all radiators, power flush it and add new inhibitor in the next few weeks ;-) Thanks for the comment ;-)
I have started using copper olives rather than brass. They don’t require massive torque to tighten and seal. In theory they would work hardened on multi changes of tails or valves but seen to seal much easier on original install
Copper olives are a hundred times better. I don't even know why they supply most compression fittings with brass olives, I normally throw them in the bin! Thanks for the comment ;-)
I would just add to note how many turns it takes to close the locking valve down. Then, after repair, open it by the same number of turns. If the system has been balanced you preserve the status quo.
Hi, i have just drained my radiator to tighten the tail end as it was leaking. Now the boiler pressure wont go up. I have tried repressurising it and it wont go up at all. Its at 0. Please help.
On my first try I found that the strong water spray made it impossible to wind the tape in the righ tplace. The solution was to tie the tape round the pipe at the start, which kept it in place and made it easy to wind.
Use a pair of mole grips to gently grip the pipe under the towel, if the pipe suddenly drops out of the valve you’ll get a lot of water especially in an open vent system
I have never seen a system as dirty as that ,it definitely needs a cleaner added and let it run for a while then filled and flushed again until it clear then a couple of bottles of sentinel 100,as for using a spool to put the ptfe use a pencil or use a paste.
Yeah, it was filthy! It’s surprising really, as the system was power flushed a few years ago, when a new boiler was installed. I have since flushed it out and added inhibitor 😉 Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this. I watch all your videos and appreciate the time and effort you put in. I have a pressurised system and our leak is coming from the gland packing nut (it leaks when the thermostatic valve is opened). My understanding is I can close the thermostatic valve, loosen that valve packing nut, and put PTFE tape under it to solve the issue. I don’t know if I need to drain down the system though?
I’m not sure to be honest. But would imagine that you’d have to drain down. If you remove the head from the thermostatic valve, the pin will pop out, meaning the valve is fully open. If you then undo the gland nut, there is nothing to hold the water back ?
@@andyone40 I'm good thanks. To be honest, I never expected to have an heart attack, although my dad died at 52 from one. I don't smoke, only drink alcohol if I go out (probably once every 6 weeks on average) and don't eat meat, margarine, butter, cakes, sugar or salt! Thanks for the comment ;-)
It depends exactly where the leak is. If a radiator was leaking, you can often just turn off the two valves, but if it is anywhere else, you will probably have to do a full drain down.
I normally use PTFE tape, but I do have some Loctite, although I have not used it yet (at home). A few weeks back I installed some threaded 2" stainless pipe on site and every PTFE joint weeped, but after replacing the PTFE with Loctite and pipe jointing compound, it was fine. I'm going to start using it more, in future. Thanks for the comment
I had my plumber come and fit a spirotech deaerator to my system. My system already has inhibitor and a magnetic filter, but every cleanout of the magnetic filter resulted in ink black water being collected. Plumber says that oxygen in the system is responsible for 80% of corrosion, but the remaining 20% is galvanic corrosion which can be caused by ph being out of balance. In theory the inhibitor should take care of it, but it’s job seems to be a lot easier when there no oxygen in the water.
Had this happen a lot in a previous house that was fitted with micro-bore pipe. Every time you did the vacuuming, you would know a pipe and it would start leaking. I know copper is not cheap, but it is the worst idea when it comes to heating systems....
Isn’t it worth shutting off all the rads in the house before you start just in the event that you dislodge the pipe you’re working on? That way all you would lose is the water in the pipework and not the rads
Yeah. I could not believe the colour of that water! There is a magna clean installed already. I’ll clean that out in the next couple of days and get the system flushed after I’ve sorted any more leaks. Thanks for the comment, Wayne 👍
Off tape didn’t work for me last time I tried it so I ended up cutting off the olive and replacing it with a new one and that’s twice I’ve tried to do it on a job and it failed due to compression on the property I was in at the time ok
If you didn't have a sewing machine spool, I've seen a plumber just wrap his finger with the tape and apply it that way, although it could be awkward too and you'd need to used to it.
Just a quick question mate . I noticed you emptied a little water out via the bleed nipple .if you’re isolating the rad anyway why would this help ? Great video btw👍
That was to relieve the pressure in the system, once the pressure had been released from the whole system, the lockshield valve was closed. Thanks for the comment
how effecient are these things , im assuming the water is heated using electricity, do they have a big impact on electricity consumption is what im realy asking i guess. i do like evacuted tube water heating , works even in cold climates no electricity required.
These are very common in the UK and are in most people's houses. The water is heated via a gas boiler, although you can get electric ones. The warm water is circulated around the system and this makes each radiator warm, which heats the room. There are 14 radiators in this house, which are connected to a combination boiler, which is under the stairs. Thanks for the comment
You can put it in via a magnetic filter, if you have one. Or you can use an upstairs radiator. Towel radiators are easiest as they often have the bleed valves and blanking plugs on the top. You can just drain out some water and add the inhibitor using a funnel.
@@ultimatehandyman It worked for me doing this exact same job, have used it on a couple of other compression joints too. I'm not too sure of the science behind it, but I think it contains a sealing compound.
I find sentinel x800 put in the system and run for a day or two then flushed out is as good as a power flush and a hell of a lot cheaper !!I normally close all the rad's off so only one is flowing and then hit the bottom of the rad with a rubber hammer wrapped in a cloth to loosen any particles working my way round the system then dump the water out - the Fernox TF1 filters are great for catching the magnite and are super easy to drain/clean out if your considering one Thanks for the videos
Very unusual to get a sealed system with contaminated water at the top of the radiator .Considering you had the system power flushed once , you may have something else going on somewhere . Have you ever had to top up the system regularly because of a leak ,Introducing fresh water regularly will cause corrosion in the system . Are you bleeding the radiators regularly,You should not need to in a sealed system If you are it may not be air but hydrogen gas,their is a smell from it if it is but it will burn as well so be careful when you are checking . Closing down the automatic air vent on the boiler has the effect of holding the water in the system when the system is at zero pressure . ( Only gas Safe Registered people should work on boilers ) .
I've never bled the radiators, but have to top up the water once every couple of years. There is a couple of gate valve's that I've found under the stairs (which I only found yesterday), have been leaking. I've got a mate coming round to flush it all out and do some remedial work ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman managed to tighten more the bottom nut that was causing the issue, carpet near area was wet must have been going on for a while sent the pressure to boiler down to zero it was quite a constant leak
Some repair kits come with a small spool of PTFE tape. I know when I got a new shower head it came with one of those small spools When you find one, keep it.
You need to turn off closed captions. I have no control over when the closed captions are shown! Under the video, if you hover the mouse at the right-hand side until you see the closed captions, then switch them off 👍
The PTFE tip about wrapping round a smaller spool is brilliant!!! Thanks. I really enjoy your videos.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I thought that was a good one, too. I normally wrap it round the end of one of those pencils that you “acquire” from certain suppliers.
I went 1 step further: the leak was between the valve and the rad, with the olive incorporated into the section of pipe between the two (the "tail" I think it's called) and no room to pull the nut back all the way; I wound the tape around 2 Lego round '1-ers' stuck together in a column, half the tape wound around each brick. I cut the tape along the line of the join, and separated the 2 bricks, each now a tiny reel of half-thickness tape, which was perfect for the job.
It seems like I have something new to fix in this house every week!
I hope everyone has a great Sunday 😉
I know that feeling m8 and it's not just my house it's my mums house as well these days, just recently had same problem on her bathroom radiator. It took me about 5 tries before it stopped, nice tip with the smaller reel there. Now her bedroom one has started leaking from the top plug aaaaaaaaaaargh !!!
I'm glad it's not just me ;-)
Thanks for the comment
@@wagmiorngmi Microbore pipe is really crap. If I did installations, I would only use 15mm pipe minimum. I really hate this microbore stuff!
Thanks for the comment
It's these little nuggets that make your channel so useful. Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi, great video, followed your instructions, I didn’t have a sewing machine spool, but I cut off the top of a pencil and wrapped the PFE tape round it. I also like the idea of using blue roll to identify if the leak was fixed.
Thanks for this. I’ve got exactly same issue, looks identical to my radiator as well. Going to try this tomorrow. Just had brand new carpet fitted. So hopefully it goes ok!
Good luck!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi I had a similar problem a few years ago and had to drain the system to get at the leak. While I had the system drain down, I fitted in line stop valves to all the radiators (both sides) so if I have a problem now I can easily isolate any radiator, this has been useful and makes it a doddle to wallpaper or tile behind a radiator.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks for video and tips 👍👍. It's never ending sometimes with houses. It's not just you every time I plan on going somewhere I always end up doing a job😬. Such is life 👍👍
You are welcome.
I've had plenty to fix here for the last few months!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great, "get me out of trouble video" and hopefully a permanent fix sometimes its just about having courage to have a go .....hope you are feeling well in yourself after your recent problems
I'm absolutely fine, thanks ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Couldn't agree more with the last comment regarding the sewing machine spool. When I think of how much tape I've messed up trying to wind it in a confined space.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
My mam has been asking me to fix this for 3years
Thanks man
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
By far a better fix is with hemp and paste, you don’t even need to de pressurise the system. We fitted a new Bosch 30Cdi to a working men’s club in Hemsworth, replacing an old conventional non- pressurised system. When we filled and pressurised the Bosch, 50% of the compression joints Leaked. Slack the back nut off and lower it down the pipe, it will dribble slightly but no gushing. Press gas paste up into the chrome fitting, pulling down slightly on the copper to pull the olive away. Then wrap in hemp and paste, allow the copper pipe back up to seat the olive and nip the fitting up. This worked first time every time, and with the heat passing through the fitting it will set hard and solid. Completed in 90 seconds per fitting.
Thanks for the comment
Useful tips, thanks for the video. I have a leak under my kitchen sink to fix today 😖
Thanks for the comment, good luck with the leak ;-)
At least in my house the pipework under the floorboards are free floating so when you into the nut there is the risk the feed pipe would drop out under the weight of the pipe and water in said pipe. It might be an idea to lightly clamp the pipe with an adjustable spanner or something first to reduce the risk of the pipe dropping out.
Also for gravity feed systems maybe shut off the header tank out feed.
Thanks for the comment
What a sight that would be. Imagine undoing the nut and the pipe just disappears underneath the floor, spraying water everywhere. I'm sat here laughing uncontrollably!
Thanks for the tip though.
A great tip i used to do the same with good old hemp and boswhite.and a wedge down the side of the pipe just in case it dropped through the floorboards, cheers.
Thanks for the comment
that was top tip about the ptf and I toataly agree that system hasn't put any enhbiter for a long time enjoyed the video
Thanks for the comment
Hope you are on the mend, great tip especially using the sewing bobbin 👍🏻. The trouble with pressurised systems is that they tend to find weak points on systems that were installed some years ago. My lad has an old ½” drain cock that just continues to weep and is near to a very old radiator that needs replacing. So delaying to the summer. I’d contemplate installing a Magnaclease or something similar, you should be able to install that yourself and would aid having that system power flushed. BUT I could be wrong. Happy Sunday. 😊
I'm fine, thanks 👍
There is a magna-clean installed, but apparently it has been installed on it's side (horizontally, instead of vertically)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Looks like the system is ready for an oil change mate. Haha.
You are not joking- I've never seen anything like it!
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman i have when i seen my dad drain the system for the first time since it was installed 10 years prior
🤣...Now that's funny
Brilliant but how do I do the exact same to a downstairs radiator 😬 I’m a complete novice, not sure if I have to close down the whole system or not! Thanks
As long as you remove the pressure from the system it should be fine, but just be careful when you undo the valve nut, if water starts to come out, you might have to nip it back up and drain down the system.
Thanks for the comment
Time to slap on a magna clean filter keep all the nasties out the system! Squeaky bum time when you loosen the rad valves or attempt to nip them up when full! I’ve had one go on me! Not great haha! Keep the videos coming mate! Always watched your channel!
There is a magna clean installed already.
Yeah, it's a bit dodgy tightening them up, without draining down!
A mate is coming round to flush it out and do a few remedial jobs on the system ;-)
Thanks for the comment
brilliant video.....does the leak sometimes seal itself with all the crud in the pipework?
Yes, sometimes it does 👍
A useful video; I don't have that type of heating, but it was interesting to watch the procedure. I liked the genius tip about putting the PTFE tape on a sewing bobbin to make it easier to use in constricted areas. The problem, though, is not everyone has a spare bobbin laying around unless they're married and their wife sews. Not that many women sew here in America, anymore; it's become a lost art. Overall, the only thing I would have done differently is use a combination wrench to remove/reinstall the compression nut. I don't like using adjustable wrenches as they can slip or open up, rounding-over a fastener. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks as I sort the leakage as you guided. 👍🏻
Glad it helped
I always enjoy watching your videos and your common sense approach of your repairs,thank you for sharing....cheers!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Got me out of trouble today, thanks
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
I've got a leak in exact same spot! Great video. Edit: I need me a second spanner...
Good luck!
Thanks very much. That was exactly what I was looking for.
Great to hear!
Fantastic video. Exactly the same problem as I had!!!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the comment 👍
using sewing spool was sooooooo ingenious. Thanks for the tips ;)
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hadn’t thought of this, handy if you can’t drain the system down for whatever reason. Have you done a video on pipe freezing if you had to fix a leak on a mains pipe but couldn’t find or be able to shut the water off at the stopcock?
No, I've not done a pipe freeing video. In a lot of cases it is just easier to drain the system down (and much cheaper), also pipe freezing kits can't be used on running water and some of the ones I have seen are not suitable for mains pressure water.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman I am on my 3rd freeze from one £20 can ! ok it was 8MM and i’ve not tried on 15mm yet. Stayed frozen for about 15mins. Anyhow it was very effective when upping feeds to 15mm for a towel rail. Give it a go. I found it was much less hassle and less expensive than draining the system and then adding inhibitor etc.
I had an old bit of lead pipe coming into my property with no stop cock to turn the water off . A few pal told me not to chance freezing it as it doesn’t work for running water at mains pressure .. guess what 4 cans later a hack saw and a very squeaky bum lol .It did actually freeze I had about 20 mins to get my lead lock on but it worked people 🙌
The pipe leading to the rad isn't completely straight. Could this be a cause or contributer to the leak? Or leaking in general? Also do you have a magnetic filter on your central heating system? Just curious as water was murky. Great tip re: PTFE tape.
I don't like small bore pipes on radiators, to be honest- but all the radiators in this house are piped up using microbore. All the radiator pipes are bent in the same fashion.
There is a Magna-clean installed near the boiler. I'll be getting it flushed out ASAP ;-)
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman If all you radiator feed pipes are bent in the same fashion I am surprised that you are not having similar leaking problems around the house. Before you attempt fixing them yourself I would first suggest that you kick your heating engineer up the arse.
@@cliffcarlo180 All the pipes in the property are the same, well 13 out of the 14 radiators! I hate microbore with a passion!
Thanks for the comment
Good video, i quite like the loctite thread sealing cord for stuff like this.
I’ll try that in future.
Thanks for the comment 👍
How hot would the water be coming out of the heater
The hottest you can get the water in a UK boiler, is 60 degrees C (I believe)
Bleeding hell! (no pun intended) that system desperately needs some inhibitor in there! Nice video as usual btw.
You are not kidding. Hopefully I'll get it flushed and new inhibitor added soon !
Thanks for the comment
That spool idea is genius!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good old PTFE ! Cheap and works well. The worst thing you can do with microbore is overtightening it.👍
I have microbore to be honest!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice video as usual. That central heating really needs a flush. I have heard the new combi boilers don’t really like messy systems as it may clog some sort of screen filters.
Yeah, you are not kidding! I've never seen water so dirty.
We had a new combi boiler installed in 2013 and the system was power flushed and inhibitor added. I think there are a couple more leaks on the system (one more radiator pipe and a gate valve), once I've fixed them I'll sort out a power flush and some inhibitor.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman did you see your plumber doing the power flush? I find hard to believe he did the power flush and 6 years down the road the system is so dirty... or if he did the power flush he possibly didn’t add the inhibitor. You better do it yourself so you know it will be done properly. 👍
No, I didn't see him do the power flush, but he is a good guy, so I doubt he would not have done it, or added the inhibitor.
We have had a few leaks at radiators, so perhaps the system is sucking in air at some point. I'm going to check for leaks at all radiators, power flush it and add new inhibitor in the next few weeks ;-)
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I have started using copper olives rather than brass. They don’t require massive torque to tighten and seal. In theory they would work hardened on multi changes of tails or valves but seen to seal much easier on original install
Copper olives are a hundred times better. I don't even know why they supply most compression fittings with brass olives, I normally throw them in the bin!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
This gezza is simply a legend 🤔🧐💯
Thanks for the comment 👍
Another brilliant video
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I would just add to note how many turns it takes to close the locking valve down. Then, after repair, open it by the same number of turns. If the system has been balanced you preserve the status quo.
Good point, the lock shield in the video was fully open, but I turned it back 1/4 of a turn
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi, i have just drained my radiator to tighten the tail end as it was leaking. Now the boiler pressure wont go up. I have tried repressurising it and it wont go up at all. Its at 0. Please help.
Sorry, I’ve just seen this comment.
You must have a leak somewhere?
Has it been fixed yet?
Repair done. Now eying the repair nervously for further leaking
Hopefully it will be fine now 👍
On my first try I found that the strong water spray made it impossible to wind the tape in the righ tplace. The solution was to tie the tape round the pipe at the start, which kept it in place and made it easy to wind.
Thanks for the comment 👍
You can use a short pencil and wrap tape around tip and apply in tight space.
Thanks for the comment
Use a pair of mole grips to gently grip the pipe under the towel, if the pipe suddenly drops out of the valve you’ll get a lot of water especially in an open vent system
Thanks for the comment
I'm going to tackle this job today, its been Leakey for years and i am scared to touch it. But here goes 😮
Best of luck with it
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have never seen a system as dirty as that ,it definitely needs a cleaner added and let it run for a while then filled and flushed again until it clear then a couple of bottles of sentinel 100,as for using a spool to put the ptfe use a pencil or use a paste.
Yeah, it was filthy! It’s surprising really, as the system was power flushed a few years ago, when a new boiler was installed. I have since flushed it out and added inhibitor 😉
Thanks for the comment
I would ALWAYS pull the carpet back before attempting these jobs, I also AWAYS use my aqua-vac (Charles)! I do however like the sewing spool idea!
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this. I watch all your videos and appreciate the time and effort you put in. I have a pressurised system and our leak is coming from the gland packing nut (it leaks when the thermostatic valve is opened). My understanding is I can close the thermostatic valve, loosen that valve packing nut, and put PTFE tape under it to solve the issue. I don’t know if I need to drain down the system though?
I’m not sure to be honest. But would imagine that you’d have to drain down. If you remove the head from the thermostatic valve, the pin will pop out, meaning the valve is fully open. If you then undo the gland nut, there is nothing to hold the water back ?
Ultimate Handyman - thanks for getting back to me - it’s much very appreciated. I may get a plumber in.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comments
is that a bruise on your right arm?
Yes, I had a stent fitted last week, so it's a bit bruised ;-)
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My uncle had 3 stents fitted last year, all that good living ruins your plumbing, hope you are getting better and thanks for all the great vids
@@andyone40 I'm good thanks. To be honest, I never expected to have an heart attack, although my dad died at 52 from one. I don't smoke, only drink alcohol if I go out (probably once every 6 weeks on average) and don't eat meat, margarine, butter, cakes, sugar or salt!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Informative as ever.. we are all leccy here so not much help .. still good to watch while aving a brew :)
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If you were to have a leak Downstairs would you have to drain the entire system
It depends exactly where the leak is. If a radiator was leaking, you can often just turn off the two valves, but if it is anywhere else, you will probably have to do a full drain down.
What do you prefer PTFE or LOCKTIGHT TAPE ?
I normally use PTFE tape, but I do have some Loctite, although I have not used it yet (at home).
A few weeks back I installed some threaded 2" stainless pipe on site and every PTFE joint weeped, but after replacing the PTFE with Loctite and pipe jointing compound, it was fine.
I'm going to start using it more, in future.
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We use it all the time now , definitely less weeps and no smashed ptfe rings in your tool boxes
Wow oil filled rads! Good informative video though. 👍
Yeah, it has since been flushed and inhibitor added 👍
Well done. Really good thought.
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I had my plumber come and fit a spirotech deaerator to my system. My system already has inhibitor and a magnetic filter, but every cleanout of the magnetic filter resulted in ink black water being collected. Plumber says that oxygen in the system is responsible for 80% of corrosion, but the remaining 20% is galvanic corrosion which can be caused by ph being out of balance. In theory the inhibitor should take care of it, but it’s job seems to be a lot easier when there no oxygen in the water.
I have a mate coming round to have a look at the central heating, as there seems to be a few things wrong with it!
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Had this happen a lot in a previous house that was fitted with micro-bore pipe. Every time you did the vacuuming, you would know a pipe and it would start leaking. I know copper is not cheap, but it is the worst idea when it comes to heating systems....
Yeah. It’s a load of crap. If it was not so much work I would replace it all with 15mm pipe.
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Thanks :-) Just what I needed.
Glad it helped 👍
Isn’t it worth shutting off all the rads in the house before you start just in the event that you dislodge the pipe you’re working on? That way all you would lose is the water in the pipework and not the rads
Yes, you could do that, if you wanted to.
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Wrapping the PTFE around the end of a pen is good.
Problem is my leak is seeping from the bottom of the radiator pipe under the ground it's coming up from where the pipe goes into the ground
😱
System filter and a system flush would benefit that system by the looks of it.👍🤓👍🍰
Yeah. I could not believe the colour of that water! There is a magna clean installed already. I’ll clean that out in the next couple of days and get the system flushed after I’ve sorted any more leaks. Thanks for the comment, Wayne 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Hope there will be video on this.
I'll see if he will let me film it ;-)
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Off tape didn’t work for me last time I tried it so I ended up cutting off the olive and replacing it with a new one and that’s twice I’ve tried to do it on a job and it failed due to compression on the property I was in at the time ok
Were the old olives brass?
Thank you so much it worked!
Glad it helped!
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If you didn't have a sewing machine spool, I've seen a plumber just wrap his finger with the tape and apply it that way, although it could be awkward too and you'd need to used to it.
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Just a quick question mate . I noticed you emptied a little water out via the bleed nipple .if you’re isolating the rad anyway why would this help ? Great video btw👍
That was to relieve the pressure in the system, once the pressure had been released from the whole system, the lockshield valve was closed.
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Looks easy but if I did it I would no doubt flood the village ;) my mantra...if it can go wrong it will go wrong :D
Lol. I’m sure it would be fine 😉
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I'm a DIY dullit but after watching this I might just give it a try.
how effecient are these things , im assuming the water is heated using electricity, do they have a big impact on electricity consumption is what im realy asking i guess. i do like evacuted tube water heating , works even in cold climates no electricity required.
These are very common in the UK and are in most people's houses. The water is heated via a gas boiler, although you can get electric ones. The warm water is circulated around the system and this makes each radiator warm, which heats the room. There are 14 radiators in this house, which are connected to a combination boiler, which is under the stairs.
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yes ,combination boilers heat domesticated water and the central heating and are electronically processed and fueled by natural gas
The sump oil I changed out of my van was cleaner than the stuff in your rads.
Same here, I've arranged to get it sorted ;-)
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Tnks so much I understand know tnks
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How do you put inhibitor in?
You can put it in via a magnetic filter, if you have one. Or you can use an upstairs radiator. Towel radiators are easiest as they often have the bleed valves and blanking plugs on the top. You can just drain out some water and add the inhibitor using a funnel.
WOW! THANKS VERY EASY.
You're welcome 👍
Good Tip chaz 👍
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What is Central Eating?
It's what people in Lancashire call central heating.
Who's put engine oil in the heating system ?
It's just really dirty water!
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How come you didn't use Liquid Teflon. It's a lot easier especially in a tight spot
£180 job laughing at the end plumber 20mintues work 😂
🙄
Good vid' but instead of PTFE try Loctite 55 next time..👍🏻
Is that good for jobs like this?
I have some, but have not used it yet.
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman It worked for me doing this exact same job, have used it on a couple of other compression joints too. I'm not too sure of the science behind it, but I think it contains a sealing compound.
@@BestUserNameUK loctite is a latex based solution isnt it ? so yeah itll seal anything airtight
You've hit crude oil on that rad get a pump on it to BP - good video though thanks for ya time making it
I was quite shocked at the colour of that water!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I find sentinel x800 put in the system and run for a day or two then flushed out is as good as a power flush and a hell of a lot cheaper !!I normally close all the rad's off so only one is flowing and then hit the bottom of the rad with a rubber hammer wrapped in a cloth to loosen any particles working my way round the system then dump the water out - the Fernox TF1 filters are great for catching the magnite and are super easy to drain/clean out if your considering one Thanks for the videos
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Very unusual to get a sealed system with contaminated water at the top of the radiator .Considering you had the system power flushed once , you may have something else going on somewhere . Have you ever had to top up the system regularly because of a leak ,Introducing fresh water regularly will cause corrosion in the system . Are you bleeding the radiators regularly,You should not need to in a sealed system If you are it may not be air but hydrogen gas,their is a smell from it if it is but it will burn as well so be careful when you are checking . Closing down the automatic air vent on the boiler has the effect of holding the water in the system when the system is at zero pressure . ( Only gas Safe Registered people should work on boilers ) .
I've never bled the radiators, but have to top up the water once every couple of years.
There is a couple of gate valve's that I've found under the stairs (which I only found yesterday), have been leaking.
I've got a mate coming round to flush it all out and do some remedial work ;-)
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Good vid but water like that I would give the system a treat and do a full drain down
Absolutely ;-)
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Good video that's black gold coming out of the radiation😃
Radiator
Absolutely, I can't believe the colour of it!
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I was wondering why my boiler lost its pressure
Leaks like this are very common.
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@@ultimatehandyman managed to tighten more the bottom nut that was causing the issue, carpet near area was wet must have been going on for a while sent the pressure to boiler down to zero it was quite a constant leak
Brilliant
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I found this video very radiating. Lol. 👍
Lol thanks for the comment 👍
Valve is totally stuck. Fear I could make things considerably worse.
The problem I'd have is finding a little sewing machine spool lol !!
Yeah. I’m lucky as the girl friend has about four sewing machines
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Some repair kits come with a small spool of PTFE tape.
I know when I got a new shower head it came with one of those small spools
When you find one, keep it.
use ya finger mate
Can't see what he is doing for text on screen
You need to turn off closed captions. I have no control over when the closed captions are shown!
Under the video, if you hover the mouse at the right-hand side until you see the closed captions, then switch them off 👍
Tohle mi moc smysl nedává.
Bylo to málo utáhnuté.
Ventil byl netěsný, kde byl připojen k potrubí.
Únik byl fixován pomocí PTFE pásky.
Díky za komentář
Free guinness from the radiator don’t mind if i do
It's been flushed since 😂
supper
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That's where Pepsi comes from.
You could be right LOL
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I call that being mummified
LOL
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Fuck sake, that’s like oil
Yeah. It’s not good
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Looks like microbore. Yikes!
Yeah, it's junk!
Thanks for the comment 👍