How to install vertical shiplap - DIY REAL shiplap
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2021
- How to install shiplap boards for a nice accent wall. I demonstrate a vertical install but the same concepts can be applied for a horizontal shiplap wall. This easy DIY shiplap wall cant be done by anyone willing and capable of doing it!
Amazon Store with all the tools you need: amzn.to/4aF7Kzn
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Tools Used in this video:
AMAZON AFFILIATE LINKS:
- Shiplap: www.homedepot.com/p/0-591-in-...
- Electrical box extender (not exactly the same but these would also work): amzn.to/3fJ0Lup
- Stanley Lever Lock measuring tape: amzn.to/2zSzSTk
- Milwaukee Bit Set (mine is no longer available): amzn.to/2Q8REqP
- Makita Drill: amzn.to/2Wb37Kf
- Makita Oscillating Multi-tool: amzn.to/3c71CBX
- Makita circular saw: amzn.to/2XhYYnA
- Porter Cable Air compressor kit: amzn.to/33enGsJ
- Porter Cable nail gun: amzn.to/33enGsJ
- DAP Spackle: amzn.to/31LLtht
- Voltage Tester (not mine but this would work great): amzn.to/3ueC5yO
- Speed Square: amzn.to/3fcGtKI
- Home Depot Pencils: amzn.to/2TMPOhy
- Caulk Gun (Mine is not longer sold here is a great alternative): amzn.to/2QgBpIl
- Liquid Nails: amzn.to/3bN9UAF
Disclaimer
This video was made to demonstrate how I/Colton/we/Homes by C & B/Colton Crump DIY personally completed this type of project. I/Colton/we/Homes by C & B/Colton Crump DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I/Colton/we/Homes by C & B/Colton Crump DIY recommend safe practices when working with/on any structure or object, seen or implied within this video. Information contained in this video does not create and hold any warranty or guarantee for any reason.This video was made for demonstration purposes and provides my/our own opinion on how to complete a project. I/we/Homes by C & B/Colton Crump DIY will not be held liable for any damage, injury, accident, or mishap that may happen to you when attempting the same or similar steps outlined. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from use or improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Homes by C & B, Colton Crump, Bailey Crump, or Colton Crump DIY. 
Хобби
The way he explained everything made it so understandable
Thank you! Very kind of you to say. Thanks for watching and commenting! :)
Great tutorial! Now I feel confident to try installing by myself
Woo hoo! Thanks for watching and commenting and glad I could help!! Best of luck!
If youre only anchoring into drywall id advice nailing at a down angle so the nails are anchored in a little better. A brad nail really isnt going to secure to drywall at all. The adhesive is what holds it. Otherwise you can add horizontal furring strips but it will pad the wall out further.
This comment 100%.
Can we make all how-to videos like this? Thanks for the quick, concise and clear instructions!
Ha ha I'll get on making more how tos for you. I have a few ill be releasing in the next month. Thanks for watching and commenting!
The wall looks great! Can you please tell me what color paint you used on your ship lap? I love it! 😍
Thank you!! The color is called rushing river by Benjamin Moore. :)
Love it! Which color of green paint did you use?
Hey sorry I didn't see this comment. I used Rushing River from Benjamin Moore
Do i need extra backing or is drywall supportive enough? Thanks! Your wall looks great! Want to do vertical over fireplace.
No need for additional backing. If you want your vertical accent to be permanent, then liquid nails and the finishing nail is more than sufficient on dry wall. If you want to maybe redo the wall to something else and take down the vertical wall accent layer in time, then doing liquid nails is going to be "not very fun" (aka will rip down pieces of drywall when trying to remove) coming off and I would try to just do nice and tight cuts with nails. Great question. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching :)
@@ColtonCrumpDIY Thank you SO much! Very helpful response! 👍👍 And so quickly too! Appreciate that!
Of course!! Happy to help :)
Nailed the boards that didn’t land on studs too? Or was the liquid nail combined with being linked with other boards enough to keep a strong hold to the wall?
I did nail in where there weren't studs, this helped me with consistency and also reducing how much the board moved due to gravity while the adhesive was drying.
Would you have issues down the road with boards coming loose if you are not nailing it to strapping/stud?
Nope. That's why I used liquid nails on the back of the board as the main bond to the wall and added the nails for added support. Those boards aren't coming off themselves. If someone wanted to remove the shiplap, they likely would have an easier time cutting the sheetrock out that is stuck to the shiplap, then replacing it with sheetrock. Unless they wanted to deal with finding the finishing nails, and peeling off the shiplap from a painted sheetrock wall.
Did you use any kind of trim piece on the corner of the wall that goes into the next room?
I didn't but that was a style choice. You can install a shiplap wall and really step up your game and install finishing molding on all of the sides and wrap around the corner and edges. But was going for a more raw look for the entire accent piece.
How would you go about painting half the height of the shiplap wall? So that you have a top half and bottom half in 2 different colours?
I know you mask it… but what about the gaps? Or is it easier to measure and mask each board and paint them all individually first?
Great question. You would probably have a better chance at minimal drips in the gaps of you were to paint them first then do it. But that increases the chance of the lines not lining up when you put the boards on. Personally I would get the boards all up, tape it off but be very particular in the gaps or just have a good steady hand.
That is going to look like crap no matter how you do it.
Great video. So you were worried about screwing the boards into studs?
Thanks! No I wasn't worried about screwing the boards into studs. I believe there was someone else that was though.
@@ColtonCrumpDIY You are probably right. The adhesive and brad nails are enough not to have to worry about it ever coming down.
Yeah with normal shiplap, when is horizontal, finding the studs and nailing the it there is great especially if you want to take the shiplap down later and change the wall. With vertical, it can be tricky to have some of the wood come off the wall or feel "spongey" because there aren't studs every 6 inches. The liquid nails makes it sturdy but also difficult to redo the wall of I ever wanted to take it down. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Just secure 1/4" lattice strips horizontal to the studs then you have something to secure the vertical shiplap to without covering your wall with liquid nails.
After using liquid nail do you blind nail into the rabbit joint as well?
I didn't. I just put 2 nails side by side every 12 to 20 inches ish.
Love the project! However if I’m brutally honest, If that wall is not load bearing, which doesn’t look like it, tear it down. Open that up! Open concept and maximize the living space. Resale and appreciation goes way up! On our 3rd house with open and our appraisals rocketed..
Fair point. We do like the open concepts. One thing we did want though is a place where my kids could kick their shoes off and just toss them in baskets under an entry table. Has worked out great. Great idea though. Maybe when we get sick of this accent wall we will knock it down
@@ColtonCrumpDIY I have been seeing vertical styles coming in… I’m getting ready for some shiplap jobs.
Trying to cut drywall back and have more DIY non expensive commercial projects.
Drywall can be nice, but it’s literally
The worst and definitely an aquired skill..
100%
Covering the nails was the hardest part when we tried this the first time. Is any of the spackle visible at the end? Or sanding really key? What did you use to sand?
This can be tricky. So in the end, the spackle is hardly visible even when trying to look for it. I try to get just enough spackle to pack into the hole and then smooth it out with my finger with a quick pass. When it's all dry I use just a standard 3M sanding block (120 grit) if I see that filled hole isn't smooth enough. I have a link in the description of that helps.
Sand till flush with a fine sanding block then 2 coats of primer over all nail holes, then 2 coats of paint.
This will do it
What did you do on the cut edge to finish it?
I just left it. I did a really straight cut and went with a more raw look. You could get a corner trim piece to finish it off though. Then paint it. Or get some sort of molding and nail that on the end also.
@@ColtonCrumpDIY thanks
What length nails did you use?
Great question. 2in 18 gauge nails
What size shiplap did you use? The link isn’t working. Thanks!
Thanks for letting me know! I used a 6 inch wide by 12ft long. But I don't see that in stock anymore. So there is this link for 8ft long. It may not be long enough depending on your ceiling height. www.homedepot.com/p/0-591-in-x-6-000-in-x-8-ft-Primed-MDF-Shiplap-Siding-168PMDFSL/301117565
@@ColtonCrumpDIY thanks so much. Your wall looks so good ☺️
What type of nails did ya use?
If I remember correctly they were 18 gauge or 16 gauge. Just branding/finishing nails.
But what do you do with the edge?
I just left it because I cut it level. People may want more of a look where you can't see the shiplap on a wall especially with the different colors of white and this green I used. Someone could get some molding and cover the entire edge of the white wall and green shiplap or just do molding where the shiplap meets the white wall.
Goals
Amen
have fun removing that if you ever change look hahaha
I'll have SO MUCH FUN!
How much did this project cost?
Maybe $200 tops with a new tube of liquid nails, the nails, paint and all of the shiplap.
Shooting nails into drywall? I’m not even sure this will provide temporary stability until the adhesive dries.
It actually held up really well. While the glue dried, the nails were enough to counter gravity and keep them in place.
Appreciate the tips and had wondered how to approach the issue of cutouts and depth for outlets. One suggestion I would make is to talk a little slower when you record these. I had to rewind to catch a few things. Great work and looks nice.
Thanks Chris! I try to keep my video under 5 min but definitely appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You might start with what shiplap means, one sentence on its origin, and cut away from your close-ups with b-roll; people don’t seem to like continuous close-ups at the onset.
I feel like you know video :)
Do not use liquid nails.
It all depends on what you're okay with. If you're in an area where there is more humidity, or shifting of your home, and you're okay with these potentially coming off the wall if you only use nails without glue, sweet. Just prep yourself that these may come off later. However re doing the wall and removing the shiplap is easier if you want to change. If you don't see a change and are okay with a solid study wall and if you do want to rip it down later, are okay with re sheetrocking, then glue it.
@@ColtonCrumpDIY Nail into your studs and you’ll be fine. It’s a nightmare having to re sheetrock an entire wall.
Horizontal shiplap I agree. But not with a vertical shiplap wall. Studs are only 16 to 24 inches apart on center. The occasional shiplap will be nailed into the stud, but the boards in between the studs are still nailing into sheetrock not providing a guaranteed grip.
@@ColtonCrumpDIY Good point. Thank you for your video.
Vertical shiplap looks like something out of the 70s.
It is out of the 70s. It's back and has been for a few years.
Why are you nailing into Sheetrock only that’s pointless it’s holding nothing.
Consistency sake and because they are vertical if I hit a stud while doing it sweet, it will grab. But with the glue there if I can at least angle the nails slightly towards the floor, it helped it gravity not letting the board sag while the glue dried. In theory and most of the time I would agree, nailing into only sheetrock does nothing. But when I did put a slight angle to it and I was just nailing, also cause it's fun and nails are cheap, there were random places it did grab. So it didn't hurt to keep going.
Why are you face nailing instead of nailing through the tongue where it won't be visible? I know you have to face nail one side, but not both. You are just making extra work for yourself later on.
I don't want to risk ruining the tongue with driving the finishing nails through it. I'd rather face nail it, fill the hole and sand it briefly rather than nail where you're saying and having pieces of the board potentially split or chip off ruining it and making it more ugly.
Looks like poo where it overlaps the baseboard. Should have removed the baseboards and ran it all the way to the floor and reinstalled the baseboard.