Installing Insulated Chimney Pipe. (All Fuel HST Pipe)
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- allfuelhst.com/
This video documents one method of installing stainless insulated flue pipe. As far as I know I did this installation properly but please read the tutorials on the All Fuels HST web site.
That stove looks like it must have a pretty high kw rating and a big firebox. That's great. Those stainless, insulated chimneys are very common here in Germany. With the price of heating oil and gas a lot of folks are putting in wood stoves and many of the homes are hundreds of years old, so putting on a traditional chimney would be very challenging. We have two wood stoves, but they are on an old, intact chimney that really draws well since our house is almost 50 feet high. Thanks for letting us take a look.
Thanks for watching Bruce. Yeah this stove is huge. I used it last winter with the 6 inch flue. It worked great unless I was loading it with wood (smoke filled the room).
Thanks for the video, lots of great things pointed out to consider to help me from making the same or any unforeseen mistakes. Very nice professional looking installation.
I've used it over a year now and it works fantastic!
Thanks for the video. I'm doing a new chimney and had reservations about a big box store, and you confirmed that. I'll order straight from their website.
This pipe is very good but I did have some dents and unless they are unusable they don't like taking them back. Nevertheless, I think this pipe is the best for the money... maybe the best overall.
I know that you probably had no choice, but if you are able too, always drill into the brick rather than the mortar. You will get a much better fixing as the brick is stronger than the cement. Great outcome, just need some cold weather to test it fully. Regards from Australia.
Thanks Dave. The screws package said not to use in brick plus the brick is nearly impossible to drill through with a carbide masonry bit. I used stainless Tapcon screws which are self taping so for sure they would not self tap into brick. They were 3 inch screws so they are the full depth of the mortar joint, I'm not at all concerned about strength aside from the brackets that hold the tee at the bottom. These two brackets support the full weight of the chimney. The screws go into slotted holes in the bracket that could allow the brackets to slide. I think I will drill a hole the size of the screw and install two more screws so that it's holding with the sheer strength of the screws.
@@WinkysWorkshop I was going to make the same comment as Dave. I have gone through the equivalent of thousands of blister packs ( a whole lot of 1 and 5 lb boxes too) (both Tapcon and Knock-offs) and because I was working primarily in Banks and Cellphone stores, I always read the instructions to the manager before starting, or else the would complain about the noise of drilling the brick, I guess it must be that the SS Tapcons are more susceptible to rotational shear, maybe? Then again, I haven't done that in more than 5 years, so maybe the recommended process has changed across the board...
@@trollforge Yeah, I can drill through brick with a carbide masonry drill and hammer drill but it is not easy. I would drill through the mortar even if the package didn't say to. The brick is very strong but also brittle like glass. In my opinion the strength is unpredictable and the mortar joint will hold good enough. I've never had a Tapcon type screw fail yet unless maybe you twist one off. Also in used 3 inch screws to there is a lot of threads holding.
@@WinkysWorkshop I bought a factory reconditioned Makita Electric SDS Demolition Drill when I found them on clearance for $99CDN... and the company I was installing for bought me the adaptor and bit set and about a hundred carbide tipped bits (you charged one location for 2 bits, you have to charge every location for 2 bits!)... so I never thought twice about that. But I had to follow all manufacturers recommendations, or the company I was installing for wouldn't warrentee my work...
Grear video, I'm looking at getting the same kit from the same company. I discovered the same flaws with the other companies mixing stainless with galvanized. What would make this a perfect purchase, for me, is if it were made in the USA. After watching your video I'm going with these guys.
So far I've had great luck with the pipe. The only complaints I had was a lack of clear instructions and some of the pipes were dented. The only problem I had was the triangular support bracket holes did not line up right. I had to drill two holes
You are a brave man to be getting up there on the roof! Very impressive result.👏
Thanks!
Your videos are always instructive - not just the construction aspect but also sharing your experience with the Big Box store vs the specialist shop.
Thanks. Yeah, normally the big box stores are not a problem but in this case it was terrible. Of course they refunded my money without question which was good. The pipe (HST) is much better pipe so in a way it was good that the other pipe was crushed.
@@WinkysWorkshop I didn't intend to look down the big box stores (I love our bunnings here in Australia), just to point out there are horses for courses. In my mind, there is A/ online like Alibaba; cheap, really, really cheap but risky then there are B/Big Box stores - cheap and convenient and then the C/ speciality stores - people that know their products intimately and charge accordingly.
Its an art to choose wisely for each purchase.
@@BenMitro This is good pipe but it is from China.
@@WinkysWorkshop I've noticed in the last few years, some stuff from China is very good quality. However, It takes someone with experience in the field to see what is good and what is not, hence the speciality stores I reckon. Alibaba is a market place, next to top notch stuff you will find rejects and rubbish but unless you know what to look for, you are flipping the coin. In my speciality, I get pretty good odds when purchasing from such market places, but only in that narrow expertise. Buying stainless chimney tube, I wouldn't know what to look for, let alone know who will supply consistent quality items. Let alone 99% of stuff available from China. Moral is, we all rely on local expertise for stuff we don't know much about, which for me is most stuff.
@@BenMitro I totally agree.
I installed a wood burning stove insert and ran double wall insolated Stainless Steel flex Pipe through the inside of my chimney. Working great.
That is awesome! If my chimney was large enough I would have done the same.
Thanks, O'great and timely video
Your welcome
The cleanout plug in the tee makes it easy to brush out. Mine did not have to be so high above the roof line so I could take off the cap to run the brush through. For sure newspaper makes a good flash heat to start a draft.
Future episode: "Winky the Chimney Sweep" complete with black clothes and stovepipe hat. J/K, that pipe should run very clean.
Haha... very true. Dry wood and warm flue help a lot
Gday, I quite like the look of that chimney, being stainless it doesn’t look out of place, if it was hot dipped Gal then I think it be a different story, great job as always mate, Cheers
Hello Matty, I was concerned about the appearance before I installed the pipe but I'm happy with it now. Yes I agree, galvanized would not look as nice.
Great video sir. You are a VERY clever guy. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you kindly
Looks nice. I installed triple wall pipe on mine for my shop stove. It is not cheap as you said.
Thanks. Just a word of caution based on experience. Only use very dry wood. Triple wall pipe stops the heat from reaching the OD of the pipe by cooling the flue. If there is any moisture at all it will condense inside the pipe. The pipe I had was stainless on the inner and outer pipe but the pipe inside was steel. Also the connectors which also hold the inside pipe in place were also steel. The creosote that condenses in the pipe is corrosive and will destroy this steel. I had 8 feet of this pipe going through my ceiling in a past home and it lasted 2 years. I think the Pipe was Duraflue. The pipe I had was dangerous stuff. Make sure you keep the flue hot and inspect the pipe frequently.
Looks great But you should have been putting heat in the shop Nice woodstove in the shop warm feeling while you're working
My shop is in the next room (garage) and it stays comfortable. I should have taken the entire basement as my shop before I got married. Oh well... in another life
Here in Greater Vancouver BC Canada, we aren't even allowed to have wood burning stoves except perhaps pellet burning stoves. This in a Province covered in forests.
I'd tell them to kiss my butt. That is crazy. Safety is important but when installed correctly they are safe.
@@WinkysWorkshop They don't want the smoke.😲
Thanks for the video
Your welcome. Thanks for watching!
Nice walkthrough on this. Yeah the pipe is sooo expensive !! Glad I bought mine a year or so ago.
Appreciate how you don't hide the mistake -- we all have those little gotyas -- good to know we are not alone.
I have a smaller stove pipe (same type kit - different manuf.) to put in our garage for a small old time (1930) woodstove with oven - a backup for our conventional stove.
So what drill bits for stainless? Some of the stuff is almost impossible even with cobalt bits. Gotta find some 'Kryptonite' ones -- where is Superman hanging out these days so I can ask him for a contact on sourcing those. ;-}
Funny - I also have the exact same cheap hammer drill - does the job. As they ingest lots of nasty concrete dust and don't get used a lot I don't mind going cheap.
Destroyed a decent circular saw when I put a diamond blade in it and made a number of concrete cuts with it. From then on I'd rather destroy cheap tools, and keep the good stuff intact...
RH
I did a lot of looking around. I ordered some from Lowes but when I received the pipe every section was damages beyond being usable. At the time I was frustrated but it was a good thing. I got my money back and for maybe 20% more I got better pipe and all the mounting hardware was 100% stainless. I'm not saying it's the best pipe but certainly better than some. Of course time will tell, I haven't tried it yet. That hammer drill was cheap and I have used the heck out of it. In fact, it has out lasted a high priced name brand significantly! It might die tomorrow but I got my money's worth!
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm disappointed in the Big Box HW stores -- they have a great market. Unfortunately they often make 'special deals' with manuf. to cut corners on their products so they can offer 'special deals'. After almost getting bit by one of these 'games' on a battery powered drill - I'm much more circumspect on buying from them.
I keep all the broken equipment in a tool scrapyard and sometimes find good use for their parts. Old printers are the best though - lots of SS rods and springs and so forth.
Enjoy watching your projects -- THANKs
@@RelentlessHomesteading Thank you for watching! Yeah... I agree about the BigBox stores although I will say I am pleased with a Kolbalt drill driver I bought.
Where did you get a hole saw that big?
I had a local company do this for me. It's called a core saw. The saw, track and motor are very expensive and it would be crazy to buy them for one hole. It worked very well.
Those stainless insulated pipes are awesome. Thank you for sharing. Would you mind giving us an idea on how much this project cost about? Curiosity is getting to me.
Sure... each of the sections were and $180, the Tee was about the same I think. The hole in the chimney was $750. This is a ballpark idea
@@WinkysWorkshop not a bad price considering what a brick and mortar alternative would go for.
@@Engineerd3d I just added everything up. The HST parts were $2,000 total and another $1000 for drilling and having the upper part of the chimney removed and the roof fixed. Still not bad.
Looks great!
Thanks!
Looks good! 👍🏻
Thanks Don, it was a big project but it worked out well. I'm glad it is finished.
You could have used the disc from the bottom and ran the rope up through the pipe when lifting, but it seemed to have worked out anyway.
I actually thought about doing that but you would have to drop the rope and disc through the bottom of the pipe before connecting it.
Looks like a first class installation. I've had a wood stove and a coal stove years ago and the heat they produced was fantastic. The insurance companies have a dim view of wood stoves and jack up homeowners insurance rates to try to discourage them. Did you experience any of that?
No problem with the insurance company although one quote I got said they would not insure me if I had the stove. The other two did not have issues. They were Grange and Allstate.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you Sir. I'm sure you'll enjoy your stove for years to come.
Good
Thanks
@7:50 round hole absolutely square...?
It was about 3/4" off. but there was still enough clearance to make the pipe square and level.
A pipe that large, tall, and straight is guaranteed to draw very strongly, even with an elbow. Your doors and air intake better be tight or it will run away on you! Ha, just kidding, but only partly! If the hot sun hits it, it will draw all the cool air from the house, so that intake needs to be tight.
I agree, it should do very draw very well. As for the sun heating it I'm not sure. It's very well insulated. Warm air from a fire will do well I'm sure.
@@WinkysWorkshop : So do you have an exterior air intake for the combustion box?
@@robsanchez5742 No but that would be ideal. However, it's hard to say how much effect this would have. My house is fairly well sealed but not as well as some newer homes. Certainly there is some heat being sucked out of the room.
NADA QUE VER CON LA MECANICA DEL TORNO Y LA FRESA
Ha... yeah, I understand.