My Motorcycle's Headers Keep Rusting- Let’s Fix It
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- Опубликовано: 13 дек 2024
- I tried popular methods to clean the rust off my motorcycle's exhaust headers.
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This video was noticeably a step forward in content production.
Keep it up, been here since 20K and I'm loving it :)
That's a long time! I appreciate it
The question is how fast it'll become as rusty as before...
might be worth doing a critic acid bath afterwards to passivate the the stainless
6 months in rainy weather driving..a bit longer in dry weather
Depending on the stainless material, I wouldnt trust anything under Yoshimura or Akrapovic on what material they use to make the exhaust. Even used Yoshimura and Akra are fine.
This is not fixing. But maintaining
Aluminium foil + slightly salty water (can use diluted vinegar, I'd run out and was only trying it after all my other attempts exceeded my patience). It dissolves the iron oxide, so does a great job of cleaning the surfaces. Did my housemates entire Suzuki Intruder in about 30 minutes, was very orange, but now looks super clean.
As a finish? Or just rub the headers with salty water and a foil ball?
@@manbiteslife3110 well you'd want to clean all that salty water off and polish it after. But it's pretty effective at removing surface rust.
@@Techman83 Perfect. I'm wondering, after metal polish, do we rinse or leave it as is ? I mean the polish will get absorbed but after ?
@@manbiteslife3110 likely depends on the polish. Most just are apply, buff off, job done.
@@Techman83 Thanks for the help bro
I polished my headers on my 09 and got them looking brand new with a good shine, took me two days with painkillers because of the arm workout! I used a blow torch to colour them around the welds, the Akropovic headers are also stainless so no deep blues like with Titanium but came out pretty good. I used sand paper and water, starting at 600 grit, 800, 1200 and finished off with polishing using a scotch pad then a microfiber. Took many hours and so far a year later they still holding up with no rust and no maintenance on the headers, I've just left them. 2018 MT-09 Akro full Titanium system, put 10 000km on since the polish. Cheers from Boksburg. There are no short cuts for this type of result.
Probably would have taken less than 2 days if you had used polish instead of painkillers!
My forearms got a hell of a workout.@@alexm9479
Well yeah ofc they won't really rust, they're titanium 😂
@@The_Real_JN Headers are stainless from Akro.
I am glad you recovered from your accident
I've used harpic before and had to really scrub to get the pipes looking nice. Stopped using when I found out it corrodes steel. I don't know if you can get it in your neck of the woods but Dr Downpipe is incredible. Quick spray, leave for five mins, quick scrub with a scouring pad, rinse and microfibre. Takes me half an hour at most and the toughest part of the job is scrubbing the tip of the slip on. Also it doesn't leave your bike smelling like a toilet.
Have exactly the same exhaust and scorpion end can. I always use the dark red/ purple scotch brite pad and cut them int strips. Loop around the pipes and pull back and forth. Takes no more than 20mins with the pipes still on the bike. The10x cleaner definitely works and I’ve had no issues 6 years on but I do wash them well afterwards as the results are almost instant. I also regularly spray ACF 50 over the whole bike with the exception of the brakes and have no corrosion on anything after 21000 miles.
very nice result :)
last year i went similar lengths, but i also spraypainted them with black heat paint and then covered them with this fiberglass tape to avoid chipping from road debris..
also.. gloves ... buy a pair or two of those thicker mechanics gloves its night and day working with them .... especially when you use to bang your knuckles and fingers on everything
also also ... for the crevices ... use cordless drill and soft bronze brushing wheel .. it makes the work way faster ... for the straith parts just go with the abrasive pads
A definite improvement!
Those rubber gloves looked a bit weedy - get yourself some Venom Steel black rubber gloves. They're expensive but really tough and each pair will probably do ten header cleaning sessions.
Solvol actually do their own exhaust tarnish remover (not the metal polish). It's called Solvol Autosol Bluing Remover. If you compare the Product Safety Data Sheets of the Solvol with the Harpic 10x, the Solvol is between 10% - 25% hydrogen chloride (pH 0.3) while the Harpic is 9% (pH 1.5 - 1.7), so the Solvol is more acidic (it also contains ingredients to protect the metal after cleaning, which, of course, the Harpic won't have).
I use also finish off with Solvol metal polish but find Scotch Brite pads work better than steel wool. A final polish with a buffing wheel in a drill brings them up like new. Stubborn deposits can be tackled with a brass wheel in a drill but avoid a regular steel wire wheel as tiny parts of the bristles can break off and embed themselves into the headers where they will subsequently rust.
Be aware that the headers will start to turn bronze again after about 500 miles, but after the first cleaning, it's a quick job to re-shine them and you shouldn't need to remove the pipes to do it.
The Venom gloves will even protect from bee stings.
I have already used Harpic Power Plus 10 on the headers of a Tracer 900 and a XSR 900, and it was almost effortless to get the headers cleaned and looking like new. After the Harpic treatment i've polished the headers with some paint polish, just to give them some shine. Worked for me.
Best thing to do would be to take them to get ceramic coated (professionally). I have long tube headers on my Charger and had them coated from Kooks. After 3 years and multiple track passes, they look brand new still. Look into it. Companies like jet-hot coating, etc.
Would you happen to know what ceracoat was applied? I just got mince covered in labocosmetica, but unfortunately, the detailer said the coat will burn up so will not protect the headers.
I specifically ordered my car’s headers with Jet-Hot’s Extreme 1300 degree ceramic coating. The coating goes both inside and outside of the headers. Really helps keep under hood temps down too.
I don’t think a motorcycle would benefit from the cooling effect, but for sure would look a lot better coated, and will last a long time.
Also, we’re talking about a different ceramic coating. The stuff I’m talking about is not paint protectant, it’s applied directly to metal, think like chrome plating. It’s not a detailing product. Your detailer was right, the ceramic you applied will burn off.
This process is something you can’t do, has to be done by the primary company providing the service. Do a quick search on Jet-Hot coatings. You’ll find what you need. Godspeed.
@@05bbs2kT yep makes sense, thanks bud!
Yes. Glad you mentioned it (ceramic coating) before me. I use a company called Zircotec, in the Birmingham area. They have a coating, "Endurance Black", that has a rough finish, like 300git. After 10 years one of my sets still looks great - no need to clean - 3 other sets were recently done and obviously look new. Endurance Black is also hard as nails. That being said, Cerakote is ok, but scratches easily but has a real nice smooth finish. Also. Cerakote doesn't handle heat as well as the Endurance Black.
Nice video. A few tricks : remove any jewelry and wrist watch before starting and wear rubber boots rather than brand new lacing convers. As for stainless steel it is NOT corrosion free. Titanium is much better!
It's a good idea to dismantle the exhaust before cleaning it but please, stop this Arpic cleaning trick. You should never use hydrochloric acide for cleaning stainless steel because it will destroy the dirty layer but also the chromium oxide AND chromium particules in the metal leaving a shiny but weaker metal surface. The way to go is Nitric acide which destroy the dirt and IRON oxyde, and any feritic particules in the base metal, leaving a clean and even more resistant metal surface. It could be a little dull if you use a too strong concentrate or leave it too long...but any decent stainless polish paste will get it as bright as new. Last, NEVER use silicon spray in the vicinity of a lambda probe or catalytic exhaust... Silicon can ruin the catalyst at incredible low concentration : it's almost magic (black magic)
Kitchen towel and autosol works well as kitchen towel is surprisingly abrasive, once you get it to a decent finish then carry on with cloth and polish to really shine.
INSTEAD of doing all that work for no reason,let me impart to You,a GREAT WAY to protect your bike's headers! A few years ago,my all "chrome" headers started looking nasty,so I cleaned them really well,and got all the rust off of them,but THEN,I took it to a local company near me,and had them Ceramic Powder-coated black (the color of my bike) and since then,all I do now,is use a "spray-polish" that I use on the paint of my bike,and that polish cleans off any roadgrime from the headers and keeps them looking brand new! : >)
Well you are back! So glad for the new video! Since we do not have Harpic where i live i had to experiment with all the other known substances. On my old virago 750 i jad to be careful not to damage the chrome. So the best result was achieved with Autosol. No steel wool on the shiny parts,please! Just the ones before it. Result was amazing. Work with your hands and wrap around a piece of cotton towel. It needs a little temperature to do the job. Btw i learned a lot for this from another very respected person on the utube. It is good checking the Dellboy's advise. Ride safe mate!
The harpic limescale remover works great. I did the same on my dirt bike. It will strip back dissolved minerals that have baked onto the metal. As far as rust is concerned try Iron fallout remover which dissolves rust into a purple colour so that you can see it is working. Its predominantly used in Car Detailing all over paint finishes so is perfectly safe to apply on other areas of your bike. Always do tests first before committing to liberal application of any product.
First time viewer - the algorithm obviously didn't like me/you before.
Your content is great. So enjoyed the life I live to!
What's up with todays STAINLESS steel? it's not supposed to stain, even my 6 month old Leo Vince slip on has discolouration, I've seen chrome parts do better.
In the uk they need to be stamped “stainless steel” if they are proper stainless steel. Sadly most are coated and not true stainless steal. Also modern manufacturing is worse than the old days due to cost & steel quality.
Stainless Steel only means it's got 11% chrome in the ligament, whilst being a lot more rust resistant than normal iron or steel it will still rust eventually.
And since headers get super hot and drastically cooled when riding in the rain or when you ride to the wash booth you effectively put the metal in a lot of stress damaging more than if this were not to happen.
On the other hand my stock cb500f headers are only bronzed by burnt road grime and stuff, they don't have any rusty spots. Can't speak for my cat tho, need to take off the cover and take a look.
There are many different kinds of stainless steel. They all have different properties regarding rust, hardness, workability and price.
Hint> It's in the name. "Stain Less." not "Stain Proof."
It's always going to rust, and blemish, just far, far less than regular steel. It is also dependent on the conditions ie. heat/cold, chemical contact (road water and grim)/weather etc.
Also, the grade of Stain Less Steel makes a difference. The are levels of protection, depending on grade 316 vs 304, 304 not liking salt water, where as 313 is rated to handle salt water.
most people can't think that far tho@@AndrewWilsonOz
BEST motorcycle channel 🔥
I work as a motorcycle detailer for a motorcycle dealership. I use aluminum rim cleaner to get the orange/brown oxidstion off. You need to clean it of almost instantly because of how abrasive it is. Then I use steel wool and something like chrome polish. When im still not satisfied, I use an electric drill with a small polishing bit and go ham on that thing.
little cb300r owner here.. have had it in storage since the first snow and the headers are still clean, will absolutely give some of these a shot when necessary tho.
5 year in cb500f rider here, my headers aren't rusted despite riding in all sorts of weather and never polishing it. The've just got a nice bronze shade which matches the engine covers abit. I also don't think Honda gave the bike titanium headers, but the the bit which is coming out of the engine is slightly purple which I like very much.
There is a chance that your will never rust either if your pipe is hot enough that the water dries and you seldom park outside where it's moist or wet.
@@Daniel-dj7fh I am beginning to wonder what he does to his bikes to get them into those states.. I ride in all weathers as well and my chain never got that lovely shade of orange either..
I mean your chain is hopefully cleaned every now and then and then lubed. I'm no expert but I don't think chains are usually made out of stainless steel either.@@adam346
Ketchup and lemon juice also works amazing! Both contain acid, and working is in with a pad(or aluminum foil) and then cleaning with baking soda amazing result for me all the time
I know someone that did that on a gun barrel. It did work.
One is missing! This made me laugh :)
btw, good to see you back on the bike!!
I would have finished off with ACF50 spray. I've used this stuff for years. Also, I recommend a canvas bike cover: you can put it on when the motor's hot, and it's better because the bike can "breathe" under canvas. Good video, nice job.
Acf50 on headers would just burn off and make the headers black again
For SS use citric acid, cheap and safe to use. Best to use it when hot, 170*F. So you can use it after a ride. This will Passivate the SS. Just water rinse after and good to go.
Yup! AutoSol is the best from the start! Just requires a lot of elbow grease initially, then a monthly maintenance session!
My pipes looked fantastic for a while but became a tedious job every month...
Sooooooooooooooo... I found some REALLY good Rustoleum Super Duper High Heat 2000+C flat black and ended up painting the headers with that!
Needless to say, they really looked fantastic and lasted forever!
A year after doing that I purchased my Akrapovic system and the old pipes still looked fantastic!
So that's the next thing... And if you do spray them, just take you time and apply a few good coats and let it dry between!
Quick and simple. 😁👍👌
This is where having a fully faired bike comes into its own.. My exhaust is also stainless steel meaning it will not corrode away to nothing even if it does become dull over time. Anyway, its hidden behind the fairing so I dont care too much, as long as it does the job! The muffler cleans up very well with just an application of shampoo (Not head and shoulders!) and rinse off.
Autosol is good at removing rust but is too coarse to get that showroom shine if thats what you're after and will leave micro scratches on your bright chrome surfaces and on stainless steel.
Mothers alloy polish is a better bet for a really bright finish but All metal polishes will require some effort to get a good result and there's no way around that!
I skip the toilet cleaner and oven cleaner and use something called Blue Magic mag wheel polish. and I use it with steel wool. Blue magic acts like your toilet cleaner chemically cutting the oxidation and the steel wool cuts right through (just like the video). I use one piece of steel wool because it scratches less as you go leaving a polished surface. It seems to work a little faster than the Autosol and it is one step instead of 3. But it doesn't rain much where I live, so I might not have as much rust/dirt buildup to start with even though it looks similar before and after. Also I rarely get up near the flange because it hurts my knuckles and you cant really see that far up there so I cant vouch for that area but anything from the first bend down will work in one step. Spend a little more time and effort and they look almost chrome plated when you are done (and will get rid of those black spots the Autosol left behind). it touches up with half the effort too since the dirt has less to stick too since they are so smooth.
Oven cleaner needs way more time to work. I used it once to get rid of burnt in material from a microfiber towel. Leaving the cleaner on for 1h did almost nothing but then I left it over night and the result was perfect. All the burnt in resedue came of with one wipe and without a trace. Can highly recommend it!
Autosol with a paper towel ot microfiber and scrub with medium to high preassure until the paste comes out black, the wipe off with a clean microfiber. Also a cloth wheel on a angle grinder or a buffer will work wonders!! On the darker spots a wetsand from 1200 - 2500 and then the step above is going to make them look brand new! But for 90min job thats pretty good👍🏻
The best way is to use scotch brites to clean the headers and some metal polish to complete the finish. It's simple, cheap and makes the headers look brand new again.
10:19 I'm pretty sure your girlfriend won't be happy because you're indirectly saying she has dandruff! 😂
I used the metal polish you had in the cupboard (Maguieres) and that worked out just great. Everything looks like new. But it’s real elbow work.
Harpic 10x and a scotch brite pad is my go to. Paint it on with a paint brush and scrub the rest away
As a guy riding a V4, I won't be doing this. But thanks for another great video. Glad to see you're backin the saddle to the extent where you can take several rides per day! :)
/Robert
I stopped caring about the shinyness of my headers. To me it actually looks cooler and makes me know that you are actually using the bike in the rain. Real bikers ride in the rain
Harpic is a go to for almost everyone... not for me.
Regardless of what people say about cleaning them like 'new', it doesn't. Yes, it gets them clean but nowhere near as mirror shiney as they should be and the acid WILL damage the chromium in the steel. This also causes issues as some say that they have Ti downpipes, no you don't... downpipes are stainless steel. Damage to the chromium will lead to your exhaust tarnishing and rusting far quick in future and each time you use the Harpic you will make the situation worse and the rust will come back quicker and quicker.
A good cleaner is Dr Downpipes and then Autosol for the polish up. That will get the best shine possible and won't damage the metalwork. Once clean, soak the full exhaust with ACF/XCP let it sit for at least 30 mins, wipes any pools of excess and then run the bike up to temp until it stops smoking like the inside of a Jamaican taxi. My exhaust (Akra) while dulled, is rust free and I clean it roughly once every 2 or 3 years! Again, my bike lives outside on the street under a cover on the moist streets of London.
Puffing machine with metal polish is the best combo. The stainless steel doesn't have a protective finish like on chrome pipe, so on a puffing machine it wouldn't hurt the pipe and bring the shine 10x faster.
Black Harpic and Autosol is used ALOT when working with headers/exhausts. Where i'm from every moped mechanic is using that.
I think it has a lot to do with the quality of the stainless steel. I've had scorpion pipes before and they got really tarnished, more than the oe ones.
Yoshimura stain magic. Rub it on, rub it off. My matte brown pipes looked brand new afterwards.
100% agree ...its expensive +import duty but worth it
From my experience autosol with the maroon coloured 3m scotchbrite pad is the best way for cleaning exhausts it works amazing!
Very nice! I've been using autosol for yeeeears and I absolutely love it. My method now it's Harpic + Autosol and the thing last.
I use Harpic black when the headers are really bad .. rinse off with plenty of water the I use Autosol for a very long time.. takes 45 min or so.. then I use WD40 as a last step (Akrapovic recommends this step) .. bike are 5 + years and the headers look pretty good. It is a job that needs to be done every third time I wash my bike
Best to keep any silicone containing products away from the O2 sensor and the bung. Regarding polishing and oxidation removal, any stainless steel polish with oxalic acid will work fast and leave a passive layer. Do not use with steel wool as it embeds iron superficially into the stainless steel. Use a 3M scotch brite pad.
Dr Downpipe. Spray on, give it a few minutes and then a quick scrub. Rinse and ride. Excellent product and is safe on the rest of the bike.
Scotchbrite with wd40 allways does the trick for me!
The correct answer, but you dont even need wd40 tbh
autosol bluing remover works like a miracle if you need a good product next time you do it. I had to clean my akrapovic once on a yamaha yzf-r125. It did wonders, looking brand new after that stuff.
Just use the autosol antiblue for stainless or Chrome. Takes whey less time and works way faster to get you,re exhaust looking like new. Because it has a high amount of hydrogloric acid in it.
Great work 🔥 Love the MT09, i waaas just wondering where can i get that mirrors of yours? Or if anyone know help.... ?
easy grit sandpaper with brake cleaner so its a wet oily sanding process (constant wipe downs with 99% alcohol then same oil but with #000 steel wool. Took hours but it got my titanium headers back into tip top shape. I haven't installed it back on yet but I may even go over it with a buffer for extra shine but then again I may powder coat them black.
Dr.Downpipe, i can get it from my local dealer and it is brilliant,, spray, leave for couple mins and the rust literally drips off, then wire wool, polish, happy days
Another awesome video, makes me want to clean mine.
Definitely start with autosol bluing removal and then autosol metal polish but you should have longer cloth to make a loop around the pipe 😁 This takes just 15min to have it do without removing the exhaust. Yep, you have to repeat it every month 😭
mine too, wow, was just wondering on the techniques on how to prevent it.
On the side not, I've noticed that my hair tends to fall and I get more dandruff with Head&Shoulders. It always needed a few weeks of reclimating my head to a different shampoo to get the dandruff back to 0.
Currently I'm maining Schwarzkopf Schauma with the coconut scent, can recommend.
Wd40 with steel wool, then autosol with steel wool works the best for me :)
Steel wool and WD40. Brilliant
I use Scotchbrite and WD40.
You can use k2 paste, it's very strong and we use it as an industrial metal guno remover
I straight up grind it with 800 grit, then 1000 and then green compound.... Then autosol. It was shiny, but after 2 months of 10k rpm... It's golden again
Autosol and my old electric tooth brush worked incredibly well. But you need to recharge.
So i started using a dremmel with a nylon brush attachment. Also great
I recommend seasoning it like your stainless steel steak pans. If meat and salt doesn't stick on seasoned pans how much more you headers. BTW, it might also be technically called "oil bluing". It will end up with a blue Titanium like blue finish.
Cleen Green works like a bomb. Used it on my cars tailpipes with that same scouring pad. Give it a try
What can I use to clean and polish my exhausts pipes and the muffle on my 2023 1250GS?
You should try a polishing wheel for your rotary. Although from my experience in the past with Dremel sized polishing wheels it’s unusable on plastics because the small size allows it to creat hotspots VERY fast, although I had like no experience with that size of a wheel and to be honest it was probably some cheap Chinese bi-plastic.
what a pain... they rot from inside anyway, but I admire your effort!
I can assure you, Autosol is definately the way to go but for headers you need to also use a Dremmel or other small head fast polishing tool.
I´ve also used Harpic power max 10 and lots of rags and elbow grease. Clean it off very good with a degreaser and use some metal polish to make it complete shiny again. Let it all rest for 24h because if it's not complete dry it will burn in again.
Love your work boet!
Funny coming home and seeing this video when I just cleaned my own exhaust with harpic.
Did the silicone spray heat up and burn ?
Sounds like a lot of steps, some of which might be superfluous.
@Techman83 in the comments describes an aluminium foil + diluted vinegar or slightly salty water method which looks as interesting as it's fast and cheap.
But the high temperature silicon spray finish will surely be worth a try!
try to use sand paper (1000 grit) sir. it also works well.
Windex neutralizes acid because it contains ammonia. So use Windex glass cleaner or ammonia, probably should dilute pure ammonia but im not 100% sure about that...
Just buy a buffer or even a buffer drill attachment. The drill attachment lets you get into all the creases. Just have to watch the rpms of the drill.
Dude, love your content. I see you have been injured lately and off the bike.
I am currently in the same position. Two injured knees. Been off the bike for a week now and mental health is going down hill fast.
How did you deal with it?
Why not just blue them like a rifle barrel? You have a few options. I actually thought about going a plum on my headers. You can black nitrate them so you have black rust instead of red rust. Personally I like the blued look on headers.
I'd normally swear by Autosol, plus a drill-mop. But fairings mean "out of sight, out of mind" 😀
I am thinking about doing this but I plan on using a high temp spray paint at the end
You guys clean your manifolds?
I just wire wheel everything off with a flat wire wheel hooked to my air ratchet. Do this once every couple years and use high heat silver to repaint them to look new. My headers never look busted.
try using break disc cleaner, some of them, not all, can clean rust
Do you have Pledge metal polish available in ur country? Because here in philippines that is the product that we use for cleaning exhaust pipe.
I recently found out that autosol has a chemical that’s called bluing remover and that works awesome. Just brush it on ant wipe it away when its dry
Autosol Blueing Remover is amazinggg at doing this job. Next time.
My brother and i got a mt 07 and mt 15 recently it's super fun for me from moving from XR150
On my two bikes I've used:
- steel wire brush ( rotary one) on a drill
- wd 40
- brake cleaner
- cloth
Spray some wd40 on pipes and some on wire brush, use low RPMs on drill. When done, again spray the pipes with wd40 and rub it off with cloth. At the end spray it with brake cleaner and let it dry. Start the bike and let it burn the rest off. How quickly it will get ugly only time will tell. Cheers from Slovenia! ❤
I wouldn´t use steel wool on stainless steel. Small particles of the steel will be embedded in the stainless steel and cause more corrosion in the future.
as a valetor I can say you missed the most effortless approach. wire wheel on a bench grinder or dremmel with wire wheel and scotch brite attachment
To maintain the pipes, use a bluing remover.
Old ratchet strap webbing with autosol for the last step on the tubes. On the bike is easier
I've been using old sweat pants legs and socks, I'll have to give some old ratchet straps a try
@choppergirl still hard work but are slightly more abrasive. Go around fully once and angle each end of the strap to stop it getting caught up. Have fun!
you could use WD40 after every ride it will get rid of the road grime and keep the headers shiny you can do it when they are hot but it'll create a lot of smoke its up to you honestly you could let it sit or wipe it of its also a good protection layer against water if you let it sit on there it will help with cleaning it the next time
i used dr downpipe cleaner, took a bit of elbow grease but god is the end result good
You dont need any of the "magic" cleaners. All you need is a piece of scotch brite and alot of elbow grease and you'd get the same results. Maybe a little metal polish afterwards if you feel like you still got some elbow grease left
Funny cos I did this to my mt09 today, I used 1 fine scotchbrite pad (grey) with wd40
Coca Cola (this brand only) and aluminium foil is good for cleaning and in the past I've used the old acid version of Wonder Wheels (car alloy wheel cleaner) which left on for a few minutes then washed off got rid of the browning
Autosol is the best with a polish machine. By hand it's hard work
Tried x 10 harpic 20 minutes, then autosol elbow grease. Then, as if by magic brand new. 👍
WD40 and red 3M Scotch Brite pads worked flawlessly for me on my '08 YZ450F Supermoto's header. Cut a small square of the pad, spray it with WD40, start buffing the pipe, and reapply more WD40 often. Do a decent sized section, wipe the pipe clean with a rag and some Brakleen, then repeat doing a new section of the pipe until you've done the entire thing.
"I don't mind sharing my toothbrush with my MT09, but a Harley would be a different story." 🤣
The average Harley rider never brushes his front tooth anyway so there no reason to waste a good toothbrush on a Harley.