Found an old Grove Spitfire Magnum few weeks back. Payed 47 bucks for it without a string and a very neglected finish. I didn't have any arrows and I needed a string. I googled how to make a bowstring and you came up. Took what I could from the video and off I went. I have made a few strings since and am VERY satisfied with the tuturial. My string will never be the issue. Thank you so much. The videos you provide are treasures and when I do go to spend money on archery, you will be my first stop every time. I can not overstate how grateful I am that you share your experience with us.
This is the most simplified, yet complete and thorough explanation of this issue (and solution) I have seen to date. If only it had been here when I was trying to learn this stuff! Haha! Thanks, man! Good stuff, as always!
Just came back from the range where I made a bareshaft test. Was slightly nock right. Now I know how to fix it. Perfect timing :) Thanks for the video!
I returned to bare shelf and had the archery shop tune new arrows for me like this and i was able to group 100% better. Don't let bad arrows frustrate you, it's worth it!
Yes your video is correct. If you've tuned yourself into bow shape first. If not tuning a bow before you've broke yourself into bow shape your tune won't take and will last 10 to 14 days before your out of tune again. If your new to shooting spend 4 months just shoot something close enough to shoot learn how to draw the bow to your face and get a good anchor and follow through. After 4 months tune away and have fun shooting
I volunteered at my local archery shop in Phoenix for awhile...and we had a guy come in who had used hot melt glue on all of his inserts lol. He went 3D shooting and left his bow bag in front footwell of the truck, leaning against the seat. It just so happened that the majority of his arrows were in it, in a full quiver (fletchings held them up from bottoming out). Every one of his inserts melted out into the bottom of his quiver lol. We cleaned them out and reinserted them all with Max Impact...and sent him on his way. I don't know if you've ever been to Phoenix in July...but if you have, that story will make perfect sense lol.
Great video Kramer. Another tip maybe... In eastern traditional archery. It's more about technique. So eastern archers usually shoot from the right side of the bow. This makes doing khatra easier. So when doing khatra it eliminates the arrow having to curve around the bow. Also they don't even use fetching in certain cases and that arrow will fly true. Also release technique makes a difference because if you use Slavic release for example. You don't don't need to worry about proper fitting nocks. So basically eastern traditional archery teachers technique to make a super efficient archer. They can use a stick and string for a bow and any kind of arrow. No tuning needed. Just technique. And this can make the arrow fly true. So something to think about. I'm using ottoman archery to learn these skills. I'm just sad that I can't learn directly for an ottoman archer.
Same for English Longbow and old no shelf Flatlimb Bows from Europe (after the Yew Shortage for some places if they did not use Mulberry to make a style of more modern English longbow), during war they were used off the right side/outer side for speed reasons like most places. Because the actual war archers did shoot off the right side most people use them off the right side even if they were not a war archer, like nobles hunting or the common English or Wales person after the Vikings, they were asked in England and Wales to learn how to use a bow to defend the country by using the bow at least once a week, even though most commoners did not learn to use a bow.
@@musaadfelton3909 Not 100% on the After Viking part but the rest is true, and it was not until the 1600's or 1700's that people started to use the inner side because some had trouble using the outer side with arrow going further in that direction to the outside.
I assumed that for someone shooting using thumb draw (right side of the bow), the symptoms should be in reverse, right? nock left = stiff and nock right = weak
I used the Spine Charts from 3 Rivers since the Cupid Arrows a 450 spine Aluminum at 30 inch with a 100 grain tip and 100 grain broadhead do not have one. The arrows are for my latest bow the 52 inch Youth Longbow in hickory with minor reflex I asked them to make a 45 pound bow from the GREAT PLAINS TRADITIONAL BOW COMPANY for my latest bow I ordered to have a good hunting bow weight set to draw 24 inches as my draw is about 24--24.5 inch. I intend to hunt with the bow soon, but the other two I have one was OEELINE Airobow 54 inch one piece recurve bow at 45 pounds I pull to 35-36 pounds thanks to your recommendation. But to get 45 pounds from the OEELINE Airobow 54 inch one piece recurve bow, I would need a not ever made 55 or 60 pound bow based on the draw weight I am getting with the 45 pound 54 inch OEELINE Airobow one piece recurve, so just getting a heavier bow is out. The other bow I have a 60 inch duel sided flatlimb longbow the 1960--1979 made Arctionbow 8200 by Actionrod (they still make fiberglass fishing rods for fly fishing) is 35 pound draw I pull to 34--35 pounds. Thus due to the low 4 inch brace height for the Arctionbow 8200 by Actionrod 60 inch flatlimb longbow it has from the little I could find on the Actionrod 3 models of bows they made, a flatlimb longbow, a static tip recurve made or at least sold until 1967 and a modern tip recurve in 1964 after the Bear Patent died off in 1963. That model of Actionbow by Actionrod had with the 4 inch brace height that was one of the lowest brace heights of a bow that had hunting weights above 35 pounds for a bow. Actionbow 8200 by Actionrod 60inch longbow has a 39 pound and a 40--42 pound weight for the Longbow as well as a 35 pound and a 29--30 pound bow. This was before the low action of the super recurve bows designed to sort of keep up with some old top of the line compounds that sometime in the 1980's that had gone over 200 Feet Per second or 61 meters per second. I did the same for my OEELINE Airobow 54 inch one piece recurve that is using a 1916/500 spine Aluminum arrow a Musen and another Sharrow that is a Musen without the label and thinner fletching so it will fly better on the bow.
Do you have a video on how to use a Tab? (as in where it should fit into your hand) Lots of videos on how to shoot with them, but not with how to sear them.
Hiya folks, hope this day finds you well and enjoying it,lol, I just happened to shoot the same arrows you have in your video, I got some 400 and 500 spline arrows in my quiver, shooting both with my bodnik slik stik 40# ,58" bow, this bow really shoots fast, n, the arrows fly true, with only 125 grain field points, and my hunting tips, I recently dropped bow weight, down to 40 lbs from my 50 lbs bodnik slik stik, getting older I guess, lol, my question for you is, have you tried just 2 fletchings on your arrows? try it out see what you think, shakyjake out.
Hey mate awesome video. So if I’m left handed do I just reverse the chart? I’m new to archery when I shoot I hit the target or make a vertical line with the arrows. Which is good Ive been told. The worst I do is hit left and right of target by 20 cm approximately. Is that just human error/technique? Hope you can reply. Awesome video again mate. Pete.
Hello Everyone, I NEED HELP!! I've been trying to Tune my arrows and I'm going crazyy! I have followed this video and many others trying to get true arrow flight, but seems impossible. I ALWAYS get "KNOCK LEFT" arrows. I have tried arrows ranging from: -More flexible: 30" 500 Spine 125gn Point. to -Stiffer: 28" 400 Spine 85gn point. I've got a Right Handed Bucktrail Wolverine 52" Bow And I pull around 46lb@28 I think I am using the appropriate Spine for my arrows and going Stiffer seems crazy. I have even tried shooting them without a point to make them 'stiffer' or not pulling the bow to full draw to make it less powerful, but my arrows keep flying out of the bow 'knock left' and I don't know what to do. I think I have quite good release and form, and even if it isn't perfect I dont think it would affect so much. *I think its important to note that the bow shows a lot of marks of arrows rubbing against it on the back of the arrow rest cutout. Sometimes with feathered arrows seems like its okay or even knock Right (but I think they only overcorrected), but when I try BareShaft tuning I always get around important Knock Left shots (even with 28" 400SP 85gn point shafts) Has this happened to anyone? Maybe I need even stiffer arrows? Or maybe way more flexible? Any ideas? Thanks for your help!
What is my arrow initially goes right and then left and flies erratic? I'm very new to archery so i bet it's bad release, sting plucking i believe you call it.
I have a range of bows.... recurves (Traditional and modern) , longbows (Modern takedowns and single piece laminated), Asiatic (Mongolian, Chinese and Hankyu (short Kyudo)) anything between # 27 and #45... I use the same arrows with them all (arrow on the R or L depending on the bow), anything between 650 spine and 400 spine and pure carbon, carbon mix, bamboo, wood shaft... and of varying weights and lengths.... I don't disparage 'tuning' arrows... but arrows should be tuned to each bow. I HAVE 12 BOWS..... Are you in cahoots with arrow makers? I'd have to buy SHEDLOADS OF ARROWS! So my adaption to having 'tuned' arrows is simply to shoot my first arrow , see where it goes and then adjust my aim, after a few shots I can usually start to get decent groups.... I know... Low tech but if it was OK for the longbowmen at Crecy and Agincourt, it's OK by me.
Okay newbie here... what if I'm aiming at a certain spot but the arrow is going to high up? I have to aim super low on the target for the arrow to go near the center. Is that an adjustment issue or a common beginner problem? 😂
Hello you probably won’t see this comment shatterproof archery but I need some help I ordered some hyot super rest’s because I’m changing from shooting whisker biscuit to super rests but I don’t know if I should keep the odd coloured fletching on my vaned arrows pointed towards the sky or have the odd coloured fletching outwards pointed left away from the bow please help me and very nice video content thank you very much
What if you have an arrow that nocks both left and right? I had this with some that would bend both going right and then left before being perfectly straight after 10-20 feet. I felt they were just going to be Target set since my others for that bow fly fine, but I will try some of these arrows from my new bow when it comes to me.
Try changing brace hight by adding or subtracting twists. (I just learned this yesterday from instructors) it moves the side to side String oscillation at the moment the arrow leaves the string. My brace hight had decreased almost half an inch on my new Flemish twist string from the start of shooting session to suddenly not being able to come close to the X. (Windage) Twisted the string back to original brace hight fixed it.
@@angelduncan9147 the one set arrows were too heavy for any bow unless I had a Compound but then would be too weak for the spine was at 450--500. The issue was the arrows were some kind of Pure flexible aluminum no other metal type arrows from China and since then I have put a good review for people on that brand of arrow telling people to not buy unless they have plans to use for bowfishing as then the arrows heavy weight might work. I got better arrows since then and told people in my review updates, the Cupid 450 spine aluminum arrows are the ones to go with if you need a spine like that for a 45 pound bow at your draw, this arrow makes it look like due to price they are the good arrow and Cupid is he clone of the this due to price but the company did just that a higher price to make people think they got the better product and that the Cupid aluminum is the clone arrow.
I know this is an old video but I’d just like to point out that both in your video and your diagram, you’re completely omitting left handed shooters. For left handed shooters everything’s opposite. You should talk about it based on which hand you draw with. I like to think of it as if the arrow goes towards my left side (strong side) then it’s too stiff. If it goes to my right side (weak side) then the arrow is too weak.
Look up "simple khatra" on the channel of Armin Hirmer. As long as the arrows are not way too weak, anyone can get their arrows flying straight within a try or two.... No arrow tuning needed!
Bareshaft tuning is so fickle. You can have impressive groups and decent form when shooting fletched and still have inconsistent bareshafts. The slow mo camera is a way better way that I personally used. At the end of the day if your arrow is flying straight without too much flex then you don't even need to bareshaft.
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
Found an old Grove Spitfire Magnum few weeks back. Payed 47 bucks for it without a string and a very neglected finish. I didn't have any arrows and I needed a string. I googled how to make a bowstring and you came up. Took what I could from the video and off I went. I have made a few strings since and am VERY satisfied with the tuturial. My string will never be the issue. Thank you so much. The videos you provide are treasures and when I do go to spend money on archery, you will be my first stop every time. I can not overstate how grateful I am that you share your experience with us.
Wow! Thank you so much! If you need anything let me know :)
This is the most simplified, yet complete and thorough explanation of this issue (and solution) I have seen to date. If only it had been here when I was trying to learn this stuff! Haha! Thanks, man! Good stuff, as always!
Just came back from the range where I made a bareshaft test. Was slightly nock right. Now I know how to fix it. Perfect timing :) Thanks for the video!
My easy way to remember left = weak, 4 letters; right = stiff, 5 letters. Kind of like the sides of a boat, port = left, 4 letters.
Yep ... if you're right-handed. 🙂
Or fork (left of plate), knife,spoon (right of plate) 😊
I figured. This comment was more informative than most videos I've watched lol. I just went up to 75# and now my arrows are hitting left
Yeah only big problem with your idea is this only works for right handed shooters. There actually exist left handed shooters.
I returned to bare shelf and had the archery shop tune new arrows for me like this and i was able to group 100% better. Don't let bad arrows frustrate you, it's worth it!
The best arrow spine video I watched in years. Short and sweet great video
Yes your video is correct. If you've tuned yourself into bow shape first. If not tuning a bow before you've broke yourself into bow shape your tune won't take and will last 10 to 14 days before your out of tune again. If your new to shooting spend 4 months just shoot something close enough to shoot learn how to draw the bow to your face and get a good anchor and follow through. After 4 months tune away and have fun shooting
Don’t normally comment but after 20 odd years of shooting a bow that was brilliant so easy to follow and simply explained.Thank you.😊
Best video on this that I’ve found! Apparently I was way overthinking this…
I volunteered at my local archery shop in Phoenix for awhile...and we had a guy come in who had used hot melt glue on all of his inserts lol. He went 3D shooting and left his bow bag in front footwell of the truck, leaning against the seat. It just so happened that the majority of his arrows were in it, in a full quiver (fletchings held them up from bottoming out). Every one of his inserts melted out into the bottom of his quiver lol. We cleaned them out and reinserted them all with Max Impact...and sent him on his way.
I don't know if you've ever been to Phoenix in July...but if you have, that story will make perfect sense lol.
Or Dec for that matter😢
@@chadblechinger5746 right??
Great video Kramer. Another tip maybe... In eastern traditional archery. It's more about technique. So eastern archers usually shoot from the right side of the bow. This makes doing khatra easier. So when doing khatra it eliminates the arrow having to curve around the bow. Also they don't even use fetching in certain cases and that arrow will fly true. Also release technique makes a difference because if you use Slavic release for example. You don't don't need to worry about proper fitting nocks. So basically eastern traditional archery teachers technique to make a super efficient archer. They can use a stick and string for a bow and any kind of arrow. No tuning needed. Just technique. And this can make the arrow fly true. So something to think about. I'm using ottoman archery to learn these skills. I'm just sad that I can't learn directly for an ottoman archer.
Same for English Longbow and old no shelf Flatlimb Bows from Europe (after the Yew Shortage for some places if they did not use Mulberry to make a style of more modern English longbow), during war they were used off the right side/outer side for speed reasons like most places. Because the actual war archers did shoot off the right side most people use them off the right side even if they were not a war archer, like nobles hunting or the common English or Wales person after the Vikings, they were asked in England and Wales to learn how to use a bow to defend the country by using the bow at least once a week, even though most commoners did not learn to use a bow.
@@caseysmith544 Hey Casey. Thanks for this info. Quite interesting
@@musaadfelton3909 Not 100% on the After Viking part but the rest is true, and it was not until the 1600's or 1700's that people started to use the inner side because some had trouble using the outer side with arrow going further in that direction to the outside.
@@caseysmith544 archery is amazing. Archery can bring the world together.
I have been looking for info like this since i started shooting 2 years ago. Thank You.
Thank you guys. I needed the reminder
I really needed this ! thanks guys ! have an awesome week !
excelent video kramer , !!
Thanks for the video
Great simple video, thank you!!
I am assuming that your right and left suggestions are for "right Eye dominant / righty shooters" - and would be reversed for Lefties?
awesome content
I assumed that for someone shooting using thumb draw (right side of the bow), the symptoms should be in reverse, right?
nock left = stiff and nock right = weak
Fine-tune ur arrows from the start with the procedures used in bare shaft tuning.
Awesome stuff! 👌
I used the Spine Charts from 3 Rivers since the Cupid Arrows a 450 spine Aluminum at 30 inch with a 100 grain tip and 100 grain broadhead do not have one. The arrows are for my latest bow the 52 inch Youth Longbow in hickory with minor reflex I asked them to make a 45 pound bow from the GREAT PLAINS TRADITIONAL BOW COMPANY for my latest bow I ordered to have a good hunting bow weight set to draw 24 inches as my draw is about 24--24.5 inch. I intend to hunt with the bow soon, but the other two I have one was OEELINE Airobow 54 inch one piece recurve bow at 45 pounds I pull to 35-36 pounds thanks to your recommendation. But to get 45 pounds from the OEELINE Airobow 54 inch one piece recurve bow, I would need a not ever made 55 or 60 pound bow based on the draw weight I am getting with the 45 pound 54 inch OEELINE Airobow one piece recurve, so just getting a heavier bow is out. The other bow I have a 60 inch duel sided flatlimb longbow the 1960--1979 made Arctionbow 8200 by Actionrod (they still make fiberglass fishing rods for fly fishing) is 35 pound draw I pull to 34--35 pounds. Thus due to the low 4 inch brace height for the Arctionbow 8200 by Actionrod 60 inch flatlimb longbow it has from the little I could find on the Actionrod 3 models of bows they made, a flatlimb longbow, a static tip recurve made or at least sold until 1967 and a modern tip recurve in 1964 after the Bear Patent died off in 1963. That model of Actionbow by Actionrod had with the 4 inch brace height that was one of the lowest brace heights of a bow that had hunting weights above 35 pounds for a bow. Actionbow 8200 by Actionrod 60inch longbow has a 39 pound and a 40--42 pound weight for the Longbow as well as a 35 pound and a 29--30 pound bow. This was before the low action of the super recurve bows designed to sort of keep up with some old top of the line compounds that sometime in the 1980's that had gone over 200 Feet Per second or 61 meters per second. I did the same for my OEELINE Airobow 54 inch one piece recurve that is using a 1916/500 spine Aluminum arrow a Musen and another Sharrow that is a Musen without the label and thinner fletching so it will fly better on the bow.
Great video and easy to understand. However, is it the same for a left handed shooter?
great system! would work the same way for thumb shooter? thanks a lot
Great video
Do you have a video on how to use a Tab? (as in where it should fit into your hand) Lots of videos on how to shoot with them, but not with how to sear them.
Hiya folks, hope this day finds you well and enjoying it,lol, I just happened to shoot the same arrows you have in your video, I got some 400 and 500 spline arrows in my quiver, shooting both with my bodnik slik stik 40# ,58" bow, this bow really shoots fast, n, the arrows fly true, with only 125 grain field points, and my hunting tips, I recently dropped bow weight, down to 40 lbs from my 50 lbs bodnik slik stik, getting older I guess, lol, my question for you is, have you tried just 2 fletchings on your arrows? try it out see what you think, shakyjake out.
Hey mate awesome video. So if I’m left handed do I just reverse the chart? I’m new to archery when I shoot I hit the target or make a vertical line with the arrows. Which is good Ive been told. The worst I do is hit left and right of target by 20 cm approximately. Is that just human error/technique? Hope you can reply. Awesome video again mate. Pete.
Hello Everyone, I NEED HELP!! I've been trying to Tune my arrows and I'm going crazyy!
I have followed this video and many others trying to get true arrow flight, but seems impossible.
I ALWAYS get "KNOCK LEFT" arrows.
I have tried arrows ranging from:
-More flexible: 30" 500 Spine 125gn Point.
to
-Stiffer: 28" 400 Spine 85gn point.
I've got a Right Handed Bucktrail Wolverine 52" Bow
And I pull around 46lb@28
I think I am using the appropriate Spine for my arrows and going Stiffer seems crazy.
I have even tried shooting them without a point to make them 'stiffer' or not pulling the bow to full draw to make it less powerful, but my arrows keep flying out of the bow 'knock left' and I don't know what to do.
I think I have quite good release and form, and even if it isn't perfect I dont think it would affect so much.
*I think its important to note that the bow shows a lot of marks of arrows rubbing against it on the back of the arrow rest cutout.
Sometimes with feathered arrows seems like its okay or even knock Right (but I think they only overcorrected), but when I try BareShaft tuning I always get around important Knock Left shots (even with 28" 400SP 85gn point shafts)
Has this happened to anyone? Maybe I need even stiffer arrows? Or maybe way more flexible? Any ideas?
Thanks for your help!
When reflecting, do you put them back in the same spot? Also if you get the ones you put in hot water?
What is my arrow initially goes right and then left and flies erratic? I'm very new to archery so i bet it's bad release, sting plucking i believe you call it.
So knock left and right are spine issues. What about up and down?
Is it opposite for a left handed bow?
Yes it is:)
yup!
is the knock left / right symptoms reversed for left handed shooters?
masterpiece
I have a range of bows.... recurves (Traditional and modern) , longbows (Modern takedowns and single piece laminated), Asiatic (Mongolian, Chinese and Hankyu (short Kyudo)) anything between # 27 and #45... I use the same arrows with them all (arrow on the R or L depending on the bow), anything between 650 spine and 400 spine and pure carbon, carbon mix, bamboo, wood shaft... and of varying weights and lengths.... I don't disparage 'tuning' arrows... but arrows should be tuned to each bow.
I HAVE 12 BOWS..... Are you in cahoots with arrow makers? I'd have to buy SHEDLOADS OF ARROWS!
So my adaption to having 'tuned' arrows is simply to shoot my first arrow , see where it goes and then adjust my aim, after a few shots I can usually start to get decent groups.... I know... Low tech but if it was OK for the longbowmen at Crecy and Agincourt, it's OK by me.
I'm battling this currently with my recurve bow. My problem is is that I am left-handed so does knock right or left change with being left-handed?
Yes it will be the opposite for a lefty:)
Interesting video!
One question: how can this be translated to thumbdraw?
That is: righthanded thumb, arrow on rightside of the bow.
Shooting off the other side of bow should be opposite when it comes to tuning.
I didn't understand not one thing what he said.... but i enjoy the video
step 5 : play with your brace height - a quarter of an inch can make a massive difference concerning perfect arrow flight ;)
Okay newbie here... what if I'm aiming at a certain spot but the arrow is going to high up? I have to aim super low on the target for the arrow to go near the center. Is that an adjustment issue or a common beginner problem? 😂
Are you shooting split finger or three under and what is your nock point height
Split finger, and I'm not sure the height but I got it adjusted at Cabela's so it should be accurately placed.@@sirjackjackal1042
Do you find a weak fletched arrow hits the target to the left??
Good👍
Is this for left handed shooters or only right handed ones?
It would be flipped for left handed shooters.
Good vid
Hello you probably won’t see this comment shatterproof archery but I need some help I ordered some hyot super rest’s because I’m changing from shooting whisker biscuit to super rests but I don’t know if I should keep the odd coloured fletching on my vaned arrows pointed towards the sky or have the odd coloured fletching outwards pointed left away from the bow please help me and very nice video content thank you very much
Does this hold true to us lefties?
Great vjdeo.
Whats considered a full-lengtth arrow?
usually 32"
but there are companies that produce arrows up to 36"
1:23 chart
Found it!
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
What if you have an arrow that nocks both left and right? I had this with some that would bend both going right and then left before being perfectly straight after 10-20 feet. I felt they were just going to be Target set since my others for that bow fly fine, but I will try some of these arrows from my new bow when it comes to me.
Arrow spinner, nock tune fletch tune and point and insert tune if need be.
Try changing brace hight by adding or subtracting twists. (I just learned this yesterday from instructors) it moves the side to side String oscillation at the moment the arrow leaves the string. My brace hight had decreased almost half an inch on my new Flemish twist string from the start of shooting session to suddenly not being able to come close to the X. (Windage) Twisted the string back to original brace hight fixed it.
@@angelduncan9147 the one set arrows were too heavy for any bow unless I had a Compound but then would be too weak for the spine was at 450--500. The issue was the arrows were some kind of Pure flexible aluminum no other metal type arrows from China and since then I have put a good review for people on that brand of arrow telling people to not buy unless they have plans to use for bowfishing as then the arrows heavy weight might work. I got better arrows since then and told people in my review updates, the Cupid 450 spine aluminum arrows are the ones to go with if you need a spine like that for a 45 pound bow at your draw, this arrow makes it look like due to price they are the good arrow and Cupid is he clone of the this due to price but the company did just that a higher price to make people think they got the better product and that the Cupid aluminum is the clone arrow.
Such thing as false stiff?
My arrows are going right at all times. So, I shortened the arrows by fucking 3 inches with 0 difference.
I don't know what to do anymore!
I can't blame My arrows because it's on and off shooting traditional is a good challenge and I just want to get my first deer this year.
I hear you!
I know this is an old video but I’d just like to point out that both in your video and your diagram, you’re completely omitting left handed shooters. For left handed shooters everything’s opposite. You should talk about it based on which hand you draw with. I like to think of it as if the arrow goes towards my left side (strong side) then it’s too stiff. If it goes to my right side (weak side) then the arrow is too weak.
Ya know I don't think ancient cultures got this technical with their arrows..
I think your right, and they were probably better than us:)
Look up "simple khatra" on the channel of Armin Hirmer. As long as the arrows are not way too weak, anyone can get their arrows flying straight within a try or two.... No arrow tuning needed!
Bareshaft tuning is so fickle. You can have impressive groups and decent form when shooting fletched and still have inconsistent bareshafts.
The slow mo camera is a way better way that I personally used. At the end of the day if your arrow is flying straight without too much flex then you don't even need to bareshaft.
Question
Our business uses sezzle
I would totally buy from y’all if you did
I can’t afford it but I want one hahah
Just think about it
Aaron j Zak
You’re either making videos for kid or immature adults why run at the camera ? I don’t get it 😊 anyways back to archery 🏹
Buy the correct spine and you are fine🙂