My favorite big glide bait is from another lure builder I watched long ago - Larry Dahlberg. His Wide Glide was available in a floating and sinking bait. The sub surface was an 8" and 5oz monster. Did great with northern and musky up north and hammered the mullet run on the space coast. Larry got my interested in making my own lures and I've been doing it for almost 15 years. You're the 1st lure builder since Larry that has truly inspired me to do more. Your creativity and the science lessons are great! Thank you for that Franco.
Hope to see a video of this in the surf! Interested in how it does and what it catches! Would almost make a foiled one for the surf like a massive Gotcha plug!
Hello I always enjoy seeing your fishing luer videos happy fishing Friday 🎣 👍🏼 I would love to use some of your great amazing hand made fishing lures for Pier fishing out her in California
The E6000 is like a rubber cement epoxy it works well for coating feathers and using the feathers as fins. Glueing the feathers in place first is the best way before coating them in the E6000. On my video " mackerel fishing lure pt.7 " you see the effects of the Canadian geese feathers with the E6000 coated over the feather on both sides. P.S. Nice job on building this lure. Some day hopefully have the stuff to make better lures than I have.
Hey Franco, Thanks for the build. I just broke out my lathe yesterday to make a pencil popper that i hope to take out striper fishing tomorrow. I do have a question that i would love your engineering perspective on. I tend to make or modify my lures to use only a belly hook and no tail hook. In my experience the striper hit the belly hook 95% of the time and the tail hook just beats up the fish. Since the fishery is so precarious the more i can do to leave the fish in good shape the better. On a modified lure i would add split rings or swivels on the tail eye to add a bit of balance to way it was designed and on ones i make i tend to leave it out all together, although i wonder if i should just add some sort of eye to better hold it for finishing. Anyway, like i said I'd appropriate your engineering thoughts on this and what else i should be considering for that type of design. Do you think a tail hook removed really changes the action of a spook or crank bait?
This is a really interesting question. I agree with you about the way most fish hit the lure. Most of the time a predator fish will target the head of a bait fish and get hooked by the belly hook. I have seen folks try using only a belly hook but move it back (closer to center) in an attempt to balance the lure; I think that is a mistake. You want to keep the belly hook as close to the head as you can without creating issues with fouling on the leader. As far as the action; both the change in weight distribution and drag at the tail will affect the action. In my experience the change is small or can be reduced. On a lipped crank bait you should be able to get away with just moving up one size on the belly hook. on a lure like the spook, removing the tail hook will reduce the drag at the tail and will improve the walk the dog action. Adding a swivel as a weight on the tail eye is a good idea on a factory made lure but, if you make the lure, put a bit of internal weight behind the center point to keep the tail down a bit. Remember you can always just replace the tail hook with a single hook and this will minimize the impact to the lure action and the possibility of damaging the fish. Thank you for the question. Good luck.
Franco, love the video. Your wire twisting is so simple. Why do l have so much trouble? I'm using 0.51 wire from the musky $&0#. Is it a hardened wire. I start to get a twist and then the whole wire rolls over. Thanks for any advice.
Great video thanks for all the tips. Very helpful! The glider I am building (for northeast stripers) is one the sinks and when retrieved at even a slow pace will do a wide "S" pattern. What causes the lure to make that S pattern underwater without imparting action to the lure? The shape of the lure Is a Cresent. Single solid piece of wood. Any help would be appreciated to help understand what makes the lure do the S pattern without imparting any action with the rod Thanks again and would love to see a video on this style glider!
Most lures that are not perfectly torpedo shaped will move in an oscillating motion. Some take a fast retrieve others can do it at slower speeds. The trick is to induce turbulent flow near the front half of the lure without causing it to be too unstable and rolling or blowing out.
I use Strike Pro Buster Swim a lot. It swims when cranked (of course), it twitches great, but what fascinates me most - it falls with a wiggle when you slack line it, and I don’t understand why!? And I don’t understand how they’ve managed to combine all three features. 🤔🤓
I have a couple of big blanks I have been wanting to turn on the lathe for trolling lures for a while, something along the lines of 2.5"x2.5"x12" I recon I might give one of these a go. Any other suggestions for bigger lures to make for offshore trolling would be great :)
It really depends on the action your trying to get and the posture you want it to float at. The key with a bait you want to glide straight is to have the center of gravity forward of the center of drag. Since CG is easy to manipulate and CD is not; I err on the side of caution and move the weight as far forward as reasonable.
@EngineeredAngler figuring out the CD (as you said) is not easy. I used your calculations of target weight and had to add an ounce to get to 48 grams and that made the nose so heavy it sank. LOL. I redid the calculations and have adjusted accordingly.
yeah I'm also having issues with building a working glide bait just like you: the lure just doesn't want to do proper side to side glides (and let's be fair: yours became better but still did not glide well after you adjusted the nose ring). it seems that the bigger they get, the more difficult it becomes to achieve good consistent glides. to clarify terminology: an example of what I consider to be a near-perfect glider is Strike Pro/CWC Buster Jerk: it requires only a slight tap on the rod to make the next move, it has a consistent side to side long (-ish) gliding action, it works well in strong (-ish) currents, it works well almost regardless of how close (or far) to the water you hold the tip of the rod. this is the best glider in terms of easiness of control that I have ever tried. yes there are models such as Salmo Slider that also work very consistently, but their glides are so short (they basically turn left and right on the same point) that I'm not sure these can even be considered gliders. this type isn't what I'm after. these are easy. I want to make one with long consistent side to side glides. so, I want to make something similar to Buster Jerk, but larger, on the order of 7" (170-180 mm) and 3-3.5 oz (80-90 g), with somewhat longer glides if I can. the best I have achieved so far is one that doesn't work well when you work it perpendicular to the direction of current. it requires more agressive jerks rather than slight taps, so the glides are accordingly agressive (it turns 90 degrees and even more and glides pretty far though), but on slight taps it wants to do nothing. so the biggest challenge is understanding whether the issue is in the weight placement (COG being always kept at the same point to provide horizontal position in the water) or the shape, or both. I have tried a variation where I spaced the weights farther apart, and that only made it worse. I guess I need to try replicating what's done in Buster Jerk: something in the head, apparently, to maintain proper balance, and a lot of weights distributed all the way up to the tail behind the COG.
Long glides means low drag and high momentum...that means heavy and streamlined. So you'll end up with a large heavy lure...not something that will work for my fishing area. But its not that hard to make. Making one that's sort of light and medium size is a challenge.
@@EngineeredAngler yeah... increasing weight can quickly become a problem. for example, you can see how they tried to solve it in Big Bandit: it has a quite thin body to save weight at its size (8"/20cm), and even then it weighs about 95 g, which is about as heavy as I'm ready to go for. and Big Bandit, even though it has, more or less, the same shape and weight distribution as Buster Jerk, is much, much harder to control and get good glides out of (but when you do manage to catch that rhythm, it becomes an absolute beauty). so, back to my own lures, I'm basically aiming at something between the two mentioned. I'm now going to try a sharper or more pointy nose, shift the wider part of the lure towards the head and try to put more weight towards the tail. p.s. speaking of lure sizes... if there's pike or muskie (I'm guessing about the latter, as there's only pike and no muskie where I live), then they should happily attack big lures like 8" and above. I've had 20 cm pikes attack my 20 cm Big Bandit! :).
nice lure, like everytime!!! but sry,i have a big BUT again,plese dont take it wrong... the twist eyes would never hold a big fish,there is a reason why other lure builders use a troughwire for big lures.... the fin in the front will stopp the aktion and let it glide,but straight... if you want a topwater lure it needs the weight in the back with a down facing linetye, if you want it to dive make it level,with the linetye at the nose. thats not my oppinion,that are physical rules of lurebuilding. and at least, on a baitcaster nearly every lure flyes perfect, try it on a spinningreal, against wind... and have fun with a nice tangle
Not to disagree with anything you mentioned but I thought muskies were mainly caught by trolling huge bricks. I also admit I'd be hesitant to use a screw in eye but Franco has done materials testing on his twist eyes and they're pretty dang tough. But the type of lure blank materials has to also be considered, for instance a nice solid dense wood is going to hold the twist eye a lot better than a soft wood or other material.
@@pakde8002 he tested it in a straight pulling,and dont bend it to the side... if a big angry fish junps,,rolls or shake his head it would fall appart. watch my first video here, were i lost the big seatrout, it has arround 6-8kg. it destroys my lure, and killed the stainlesssteel-splitring right after the first jump. a wiretrough lure can get completly break appart, and you are still able to land the fish. another way was a linetrough, so the lure slides up on the line and cant work like a crowba. my favorit way for my style of fishing now, so i rebuild all my lures...
The fit and finish of the lure is great. The action is not. A glide bait should dart/glide to the right 12 to 18 inches and then with a quick turn of the reel handle back to the left 12 to 18 inches. The front keel on this bait will not allow a true gliding action.
Hi, great video, cant understand what move is what the lure is supposed to do but looks great. gliding lures are supposed to be able wtd as well? I would love to see the version without the fin
My favorite big glide bait is from another lure builder I watched long ago - Larry Dahlberg. His Wide Glide was available in a floating and sinking bait. The sub surface was an 8" and 5oz monster. Did great with northern and musky up north and hammered the mullet run on the space coast.
Larry got my interested in making my own lures and I've been doing it for almost 15 years. You're the 1st lure builder since Larry that has truly inspired me to do more. Your creativity and the science lessons are great! Thank you for that Franco.
So gratifying to hear...Cheers
Awesome. Gave up on making a glide bait. Only glide to one side. No problem building a slider. Maby give it another try 😎
Hang in there. I misunderstood the problem in my original reply. Sounds like a tuning problem.
another great lure Franco, and the angry eyes expression makes that lure! 👌👊
Thanks 👍
wow! amazing music while painting! you are the GOAT of the youtube lure makers!
Wow, thank you!
you are the GOAT my friend. Love love love your videos. tight lines mate
Thanks so much
Another great example and explanation. Well done Franco
Love the way the eyes look in the water nice bait.
Love the bigger lures 👍 job well done Franco, good helpful info as always, thanks
Glad you like them!
First video I've watched quality content keep it up!
Welcome aboard! Check out the playlists....
Hope to see a video of this in the surf! Interested in how it does and what it catches! Would almost make a foiled one for the surf like a massive Gotcha plug!
I like the way you think
Always make me so satisfy to watch your vids, relaxing want me to make one right away, keep up and regards from SWEDEN
Awesome! Thank you!
Glide baits have been difficult for me . This should help! Thanks!
Bring that bait up and I’ll make sure a Muskie crushes it!
How about a tutorial for a jerbait like a buster jerk from strike pro.
Hello I always enjoy seeing your fishing luer videos happy fishing Friday 🎣 👍🏼 I would love to use some of your great amazing hand made fishing lures for Pier fishing out her in California
Nice i would like one that runs subsurface about 1 1/2 feet it would make a nice musky bait
NE Surfcaster here, I'd definitely throw that for big stripers
Would like to see a video of you making a top water Jackall Riser lure, please. It’s an interesting lure which can be fished slow or fast.
Great suggestion!
great looking glider,we use offset line ties for stripers in MA. on gliders.
love to see you hook up with your creation.
keep on pluggin...
Thanks, will do!
I think there was a popular song called "Angry Eyes" some years ago. Sorry, but it was "Hungry Eyes". I like angry better. Very good post. Thanks.
The E6000 is like a rubber cement epoxy it works well for coating feathers and using the feathers as fins. Glueing the feathers in place first is the best way before coating them in the E6000. On my video " mackerel fishing lure pt.7 " you see the effects of the Canadian geese feathers with the E6000 coated over the feather on both sides. P.S. Nice job on building this lure. Some day hopefully have the stuff to make better lures than I have.
Would love to see you try out something comparable to the Shimano Flashboost technology in one of your lures. I think the concept is pretty cool.
Great suggestion! I'm actually working on something similar, but it will be a while.
@@EngineeredAngler Thank you! Looking forward to what you come up with!
Great build! I would like to see you improve on the hellbender. It is a great lure for lake trout but requires constant retuning.
great lure
Another interesting video and awesome lure. Look forward to seeing what you come up with next
Thanks 👍
@@EngineeredAngler have you ever made a suspended glid bait? If not that would be an interesting lure build.
Would like to see a top water flap tail. Been very popular lately in the musky fishing world. Would like to see a bass version. Thanks for the videos.
Sounds good!
😃👍👍👍👍👍👍👍Как всегда все очень круто!!! Приятно наблюдать за вашим мастером 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Спасибо
I think a crank bait type of front plastic piece would that lure wiggle more like a fish.
Dang I should have known it was a big muskie glide bait but I still like my snake head idea 😁
Franco I need a tutorial for a wopper plopper 😂
Time for a bigger tank!
You could do deep diver with curved lip, something like a RAPALA SCATTER RAP TAIL DANCER. It has intrasting action.
I would like to try and make a wood plug that is similar to a creek chub. it has a double bend aluminum lip...
Don't be intimidated by the bib...it's not as difficult to make as it seems.
i like how you do all of that good will hunting-type shit before actually building the lure
Very impressive
Thanks
Hey Franco, Thanks for the build. I just broke out my lathe yesterday to make a pencil popper that i hope to take out striper fishing tomorrow. I do have a question that i would love your engineering perspective on. I tend to make or modify my lures to use only a belly hook and no tail hook. In my experience the striper hit the belly hook 95% of the time and the tail hook just beats up the fish. Since the fishery is so precarious the more i can do to leave the fish in good shape the better. On a modified lure i would add split rings or swivels on the tail eye to add a bit of balance to way it was designed and on ones i make i tend to leave it out all together, although i wonder if i should just add some sort of eye to better hold it for finishing. Anyway, like i said I'd appropriate your engineering thoughts on this and what else i should be considering for that type of design. Do you think a tail hook removed really changes the action of a spook or crank bait?
This is a really interesting question. I agree with you about the way most fish hit the lure. Most of the time a predator fish will target the head of a bait fish and get hooked by the belly hook. I have seen folks try using only a belly hook but move it back (closer to center) in an attempt to balance the lure; I think that is a mistake. You want to keep the belly hook as close to the head as you can without creating issues with fouling on the leader. As far as the action; both the change in weight distribution and drag at the tail will affect the action. In my experience the change is small or can be reduced. On a lipped crank bait you should be able to get away with just moving up one size on the belly hook. on a lure like the spook, removing the tail hook will reduce the drag at the tail and will improve the walk the dog action. Adding a swivel as a weight on the tail eye is a good idea on a factory made lure but, if you make the lure, put a bit of internal weight behind the center point to keep the tail down a bit. Remember you can always just replace the tail hook with a single hook and this will minimize the impact to the lure action and the possibility of damaging the fish. Thank you for the question. Good luck.
@@EngineeredAngler great q&a session.
@@EngineeredAngler This is great info, thanks a million. I'll go ahead and try to build a few spooks this week to try putting it in to practice.
Franco, love the video. Your wire twisting is so simple. Why do l have so much trouble? I'm using 0.51 wire from the musky $&0#. Is it a hardened wire. I start to get a twist and then the whole wire rolls over. Thanks for any advice.
Im going to do an entire video on wire selection...
The simple answer is use lighter wire or annealed wire.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks brother
Can you make a video on a dive and rise for muskie and pike?
I like that
Great video thanks for all the tips. Very helpful!
The glider I am building (for northeast stripers) is one the sinks and when retrieved at even a slow pace will do a wide "S" pattern. What causes the lure to make that S pattern underwater without imparting action to the lure?
The shape of the lure Is a Cresent. Single solid piece of wood. Any help would be appreciated to help understand what makes the lure do the S pattern without imparting any action with the rod
Thanks again and would love to see a video on this style glider!
Most lures that are not perfectly torpedo shaped will move in an oscillating motion. Some take a fast retrieve others can do it at slower speeds. The trick is to induce turbulent flow near the front half of the lure without causing it to be too unstable and rolling or blowing out.
I use Strike Pro Buster Swim a lot. It swims when cranked (of course), it twitches great, but what fascinates me most - it falls with a wiggle when you slack line it, and I don’t understand why!? And I don’t understand how they’ve managed to combine all three features. 🤔🤓
I did an entire video explaining how to get a wiggle on the drop.
Have you ever made a bait with the lip at the rear end. To make it stop fast, when you walk the dog?
No...have you?
@@EngineeredAngler yes, and it works. Even Rapala have one. It is named Rip Stop.
I have a couple of big blanks I have been wanting to turn on the lathe for trolling lures for a while, something along the lines of 2.5"x2.5"x12" I recon I might give one of these a go. Any other suggestions for bigger lures to make for offshore trolling would be great :)
Sounds like a great suggestion for a master class.
Doesn't adding weight in the front make it nose heavy? Wouldn't it be better if the weight were more towards the middle?
It really depends on the action your trying to get and the posture you want it to float at. The key with a bait you want to glide straight is to have the center of gravity forward of the center of drag. Since CG is easy to manipulate and CD is not; I err on the side of caution and move the weight as far forward as reasonable.
@EngineeredAngler figuring out the CD (as you said) is not easy. I used your calculations of target weight and had to add an ounce to get to 48 grams and that made the nose so heavy it sank. LOL. I redid the calculations and have adjusted accordingly.
yeah I'm also having issues with building a working glide bait just like you: the lure just doesn't want to do proper side to side glides (and let's be fair: yours became better but still did not glide well after you adjusted the nose ring). it seems that the bigger they get, the more difficult it becomes to achieve good consistent glides.
to clarify terminology: an example of what I consider to be a near-perfect glider is Strike Pro/CWC Buster Jerk: it requires only a slight tap on the rod to make the next move, it has a consistent side to side long (-ish) gliding action, it works well in strong (-ish) currents, it works well almost regardless of how close (or far) to the water you hold the tip of the rod. this is the best glider in terms of easiness of control that I have ever tried.
yes there are models such as Salmo Slider that also work very consistently, but their glides are so short (they basically turn left and right on the same point) that I'm not sure these can even be considered gliders. this type isn't what I'm after. these are easy. I want to make one with long consistent side to side glides.
so, I want to make something similar to Buster Jerk, but larger, on the order of 7" (170-180 mm) and 3-3.5 oz (80-90 g), with somewhat longer glides if I can. the best I have achieved so far is one that doesn't work well when you work it perpendicular to the direction of current. it requires more agressive jerks rather than slight taps, so the glides are accordingly agressive (it turns 90 degrees and even more and glides pretty far though), but on slight taps it wants to do nothing.
so the biggest challenge is understanding whether the issue is in the weight placement (COG being always kept at the same point to provide horizontal position in the water) or the shape, or both. I have tried a variation where I spaced the weights farther apart, and that only made it worse. I guess I need to try replicating what's done in Buster Jerk: something in the head, apparently, to maintain proper balance, and a lot of weights distributed all the way up to the tail behind the COG.
Long glides means low drag and high momentum...that means heavy and streamlined. So you'll end up with a large heavy lure...not something that will work for my fishing area. But its not that hard to make. Making one that's sort of light and medium size is a challenge.
@@EngineeredAngler yeah... increasing weight can quickly become a problem. for example, you can see how they tried to solve it in Big Bandit: it has a quite thin body to save weight at its size (8"/20cm), and even then it weighs about 95 g, which is about as heavy as I'm ready to go for.
and Big Bandit, even though it has, more or less, the same shape and weight distribution as Buster Jerk, is much, much harder to control and get good glides out of (but when you do manage to catch that rhythm, it becomes an absolute beauty).
so, back to my own lures, I'm basically aiming at something between the two mentioned. I'm now going to try a sharper or more pointy nose, shift the wider part of the lure towards the head and try to put more weight towards the tail.
p.s. speaking of lure sizes... if there's pike or muskie (I'm guessing about the latter, as there's only pike and no muskie where I live), then they should happily attack big lures like 8" and above. I've had 20 cm pikes attack my 20 cm Big Bandit! :).
🙋🙋
I think it should be a little heavier
what size and we're do you get that mesh for scales
New sub! Liked
Welcome!
Great video ++
do you ever sell any of your lures? im in nj and just started striper fishing
I don't, at least not for now.
okay! let me know!! even something basic andd ill tag you with every catch!@@EngineeredAngler
nice lure, like everytime!!! but sry,i have a big BUT again,plese dont take it wrong... the twist eyes would never hold a big fish,there is a reason why other lure builders use a troughwire for big lures.... the fin in the front will stopp the aktion and let it glide,but straight... if you want a topwater lure it needs the weight in the back with a down facing linetye, if you want it to dive make it level,with the linetye at the nose. thats not my oppinion,that are physical rules of lurebuilding. and at least, on a baitcaster nearly every lure flyes perfect, try it on a spinningreal, against wind... and have fun with a nice tangle
Not to disagree with anything you mentioned but I thought muskies were mainly caught by trolling huge bricks. I also admit I'd be hesitant to use a screw in eye but Franco has done materials testing on his twist eyes and they're pretty dang tough. But the type of lure blank materials has to also be considered, for instance a nice solid dense wood is going to hold the twist eye a lot better than a soft wood or other material.
@@pakde8002 he tested it in a straight pulling,and dont bend it to the side... if a big angry fish junps,,rolls or shake his head it would fall appart. watch my first video here, were i lost the big seatrout, it has arround 6-8kg. it destroys my lure, and killed the stainlesssteel-splitring right after the first jump. a wiretrough lure can get completly break appart, and you are still able to land the fish. another way was a linetrough, so the lure slides up on the line and cant work like a crowba. my favorit way for my style of fishing now, so i rebuild all my lures...
Wacky rig topwater as next project?
ruclips.net/video/8MuItE4sJJI/видео.html
Will you make me a glide??
First
🤦🏻♂️
The fit and finish of the lure is great. The action is not. A glide bait should dart/glide to the right 12 to 18 inches and then with a quick turn of the reel handle back to the left 12 to 18 inches. The front keel on this bait will not allow a true gliding action.
Didn't glide as well as I hoped.
@@EngineeredAngler I build some lures as well and performance does not always meet expectation. Love your channel though keep it up!!!
Hi, great video, cant understand what move is what the lure is supposed to do but looks great. gliding lures are supposed to be able wtd as well? I would love to see the version without the fin