How to test and repair the charging system on a scooter
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2014
- Flywheel tool: amzn.to/2rfEYBO
Cheap voltmeter: amzn.to/2JHTVUe
Fuses: amzn.to/2r9YD5s
8-pole stator (make sure the it's right part before buying): amzn.to/2I6Gyj3
4 pin regulator: amzn.to/2JKSUuq
5 pin regulator: amzn.to/2jlSbVn
How to diagnose and repair the charging system on a 150cc scooter. This procedure is similar for all 50, 125, 150 cc GY6 Chinese scooters. I explain how to test and replace the stator, fuse, wiring, and voltage regulator. Хобби
this is the first and looks like the only one decent video on the entire youtube on how to test and repair scooters electrical. thank you so much for uploading it. it was very helpful!
THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO ON RUclips THAT CORECTLY DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM! THANK YOU AND I ENCOURAGE YOU TO MAKE MORE VIDEOS! I AM VERY THANKFUL! PEOPLE SHOULD WATCH THIS AND SPARE US ALL THE WANTABE VIDEOS! THANKS AGAIN FOR NOT MAKING A CONFUSEING VIDEO!
Without doubt one of the best scooter videos I have seen on RUclips well done💯
great video. I have been tracking down problems on my scooter for the last couple weeks and have finally landed on electrical issues. I'm glad I found your video.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. Very helpful for those of us who know how to pull a scooter apart, but don't know how to fix it. My 49cc 1988 Honda scooter thanks you too.
Beautifully produced and wonderfully clear tutorial on diagnosing the charging system!! Thanks!
One of the best videos I have seen in a long time. Good show.
Paul .... my father always told that knowledge is the only thing that nobody can take away from you.
Thank you for ur videos... subs and liked
It doesn't get better that than this: (1).title,content/dialog matches tutorial (2) video is very informative and professional(3).I learned alot. about presentation,plus charging systems.THANKS!
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful for you.
@@LabCoatPaulvery helpful
Clear and concise descriptions and troubleshooting. Really good instructions. Thank you :)
(and cool puller tip!)
Bro is that the same for Piaggio mp3 400ie
Wow what a great video! Highlighting the relevant parts of the wiring diagram while you’re testing them is super helpful.
Dude, what a great video. Very well put together. Thank You!
Extremely clear, detailed and useful video. Thanks for sharing
Awesome video! This was a big help for me when troubleshooting my scooter. Very much appreciate you taking the time to post this. Thank You!!
DEFINATELY the best explanation I have came across
What an amazing tutorial. Straight to the point and everything clear 👏 🔝 thank you!
Fantastic video!! Best I’ve seen man. Your time is much appreciated!!!!
GREAT TUTORIAL AND TO THE POINT TEACHING PAUL!
That was great. Thank you. That was very straight forward, to the point, video. AND with schematic! Awesome.
People that make videos, watch this! This is how to make videos. No chit chat.
Btw, your other videos are great too. I've learned alot from you. Very much appreciated.
Awesome video man. Thanks for taking the time to make it
Um why are the pros talking down about this guy's way of doing his own way to troubleshoot the 50cc scooter electric. Stop hating if you know more great I'm proud of you. But please folks stop the " I'm better " ao what. The guy is showing the correct way.yes you can so this another way but just watch and listen. He's a smart guy .😊😊
So nicely explained, you are good man. Thanks!
Great video. I had been having a charging issue and this video helped me determine where the issue was. Although I thought the rectifier was the cause this video helped me determine one side of the stator was not sending enough voltage. You might be surprised to find out, as I was, when I pulled the fan off an exhaust gasket fell out. I was wondering why when I replaced the exhaust a few years ago that there wasn't a gasket with the original exhaust. Mystery solved.
Excellent! Clear and concise!👍
I couldnt get my scooter started with the lights on, this will help!! Thanks a lot!!!
One of the best videos I've seen on the subject. Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up ;-)
Thank you, just needed the pin out for the regulator!
I saw the schematic and the wire colors, now I can abuse that to create a wiring loom for my classic.
Great Video, thanks you explaining and detailing the testing process - Helped me a lot - Thank you.
Very nice vid ! very concise and helpfull , thankyou
Paul. You are the man.
Very direct and informative, detail and simply put
Excellent quality video in all respects!
This is so well done. Thank you!
For ease, maybe check the regulator first? It seems much easier than pulling the stator
Hello !!! dude, you is right the stator is damaged changed it and go! thank you very much for your advice ...
Thank you buddy! Wonderful tutorial
Thank you for the video. You taught me something. :)
Thank you very much i learned a lot from your video!
Great diagnostic video. 👍
Best video ever!! Thank you!!
Excellent video. Wealth of info thank you very much. Useful af
First of all thank you very much. This video was awesome and exactly as the trouble shooting steps would go. I changed mine to battery, charging fuse, 12v red wire on the regulator, a/c wires, then I figure scince there is no power from a/c wires, mine is probably a bad stator.
Awesome video, outlining the circuits on the diagram along with the video is extremely useful thank you
Thanks for sharing excellet tutorial
Paul shpakov should I have upgraded my
regulator/rectifier if I upgraded my stator with more poles?
This was very helpful
I have a question on the main headlights of my Wildfire R5 150cc scooter. My rectifier(regulator) was bad and I replaced that. I have all signal and running lights but not the headlights. I have all new bulbs and have checked ohm reading on magneto. Is there something else I'm missing? Seems strange all the other lights seem to be working fine. What would you think is my next step.
Great work.
Perfect demonstration, thanks
You are welcome!
If I have plenty of voltage coming to the battery which should be ruling out the regulator being at fault, but the headlight dims when using the indicators, what could that be? I've even changed the front and rear lights to led's to help reduce the current draw. The indicators are the only thing pulling the lights down when used. Thanks
thanks dude even a hardhead person like me could learn how to repair the charging system in 9.39mins bigup
Hi Paul
I am getting 11v between GY and 17v between GW on a brand new regulator rectifier on my honda activa. Is there something else i need to check. GR DC is 12.6 and battery is 12.6 on cold and 14.5v with engine on . Please help.
Excellent video thank you for your time
What a well made video... 👏
Best video thanks!!!
Hi, great video. I have a 2004 bws 50cc. When I do the ac test on the regulator, the white wire (charging) voltage increases with engine speed but when I test the yellow wire (lighting), the voltage increases with a little more engine speed but then drops to 11 or 10 volts the more the engine is sped up... the lighting coil seems to have a problem but we have to charge the battery every few days. I'm really confused.
thank you for awesome video
Very nice Video. Thanks
Well explained TKQ
hi paul, is it okay if the regulator's green wire is not grounded? regarding to my existing wiring, my bike previous owner was just grounded the regulator through the regulator's body (regulator's screw hole). do i need to re-wire that?
I got it going. the pick up sensor was to far away from the Flywheel. it's running great now. thx.
hi, I have changed the regulator, stator and rotor for brand new and still cannot see increasing voltage when reving the engine. I dont know what else I should replace. Cannot use the my KYmco aglity rs 50 2010 with lights on, because battery is not charging. when I swith the light the voltage dropped to 12,1v and lower and not going up at all when reving the engine doesnt matter if lights on or off. help. Thanks
Sir, it's very nice & good explained
Although not recommended, you can also use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut.
*Proceeds to use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut* 😂
Great guide mate, thank you so much! Love the diagrams!
ok so I changed the regulator and the test are basically the same the yellow-green an ac is 7.1 and then drops to 4.3ish when I rev the engine .so I retested it unplugged and the white/green tested 11.0 and then 12.5 when rev isn't that low also i noticed that the battery when scooter is on goes to 15.8 I thought it should not be above 15. Any ideas it's a new battery new stator and regulator.
well done, Thanks
problem atv, have new spark plug and spark,compression good and fuel, engine cranking but wont start
can the CDI be the problem?
thank you very much
Thanks for the video Friend, great info on the charging system ,cleared up a problem my friend is having. Thanks so much for your time
☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
Do you know how much current does the scooter charging system put out after the rectifier into the battery?
very nice video.
What if I don't have an impact wrench to remove flywheel not are their other options?
Hey bud let me ask you, I had a bad regulator because it was charging 15.1 volts. I had several new regulators but they were all 5 pin with an extra black wire. I know I shouldn't have but I cut the connector and hard wired everything to the new regulator except for the black wire because there was no black wire. Just a green red white and yellow. Surprisingly the voltage came down to 13 and my light worked which they didn't earlier with the bad regulator. What do I do with the black wire? I noticed my digital odometer and speedometer stopped working when I put the new regulator on. Maybe I should have connected the black wire with one of the other wires? Please help!
you are superrrr.thank you my friend
Hi! My headlight bulbs keep burning out along with my running lights. Brakes and signal lights work fine. They are dim if I install two head lights and brighter if I install one headlight. The lights brightens up when I rev the engine than burn out.
I'm going to test the regulator using a multimeter tomorrow. What do you think my problems is?
It's probably that voltage regulator. Light bulbs burning out means your voltage is too high.
I am geting 2-3volts on the yellow and green wires to the voltage regulator whats wrong?
I have 8 -9 volts to automatic choke ,has to be 12 volt there ?
thank you for this video, i tested my stator and it all checked out fine, checked the wiring harness all fine but im only getting 2v ac on the white cable but getting 20v on the yellow, its a brand new stator could it be faulty?
the lights are really dim on the scooter, and not getting a charge voltage from the ccu
Hi, i have a 2 phase alternator, what voltage regulator can i put in this?The alternator have 2 yellow wires and a Red one.
You'll need to match up the connector. Do a search for your stator on www.partsforscooters.com and find the matching regulator.
Thanks!
What do i do if my high beemlight works, but my normal low beam and rear light (red) doesnt work?
hi. i change on my 49cc 4T new flywheel, stator, rectifier. obtain 13,3v to 15v but when turn on light voltage drop down even accelerate. please help! thanks
Hey Paul, ok so know when I go to start my scooter I hear clanking by the stater I was only hearing when first start but know I hear it start clinking when cutting off. But when running hear nothing. I do you think something is broken on the stator or the starter clutch flywheel
Take your transmission cover off and look inside.
What about the head light? With this regulator, is it powered by DC or by AC directly from the stator?
+Alex Trezvy On this particular scooter the headlight is connected directly to the stator and runs off AC. Some scooters use DC for the headlights. Unplug the headlight and connect a multimeter. I you get 12-16V on the DC setting, and almost nothing on AC, you have a DC headlight. If you get voltage in AC mode, then you have AC.
Thank you for your response so I unplugged the regulator and tested on Ac black to green and red to white it was 25.2 idle and 35.4 reving engine then I moved the red to yellow and tested again it was 11.9 idle and 13.9 with engine reve, does this mean anything is it ok or is that not good the white test is so much higher than the yellow not sure if that is normal. Thank you again for your response
The white and yellow wires are the AC output from the stator. your 25 to 35 VAC reading is good. Once that goes in to the regulator, it should convert it to 13 to 15V DC on the red wire. If you're getting good AC with the regulator unplugged, but the output is wrong when it's connected, you have a bad voltage regulator.
@Paul shpakov I have a 2008 Kymco Xciting 500cc. It drains the battery. I have to keep getting it charged up.
Then, it sometimes kicks the fuel pump on, and the fuel pump won't stop pumping gas.
I'm trying to figure out the issue. Once I get it running, it runs fine.
Some of the wires are burnt. Should I have them replaced? Other than that, it's a fine scooter.
Yes, replace the burnt wires! It sounds like you have a short circuit somewhere that causes the pump to stay on, and possibly burnt up those wires too. You need to figure out what caused that problem, and correct it.
Thanks!
great video, sweet nd short...
one question do you think that regulator would work for A 49cc mini quad?
Nigga u for real lom definitely not
One last question if you can. You say check coutinunity between yellow and green , white and green, but another video I seen says there shouldn’t be between ground? I get nothing from green and yellow or green and white
Sometimes RUclips's algorithm works in mysterious ways.
instructive your video, thanks for the, I have a problem with the battery charge my scooter which to measure the stator ohms where you give 411ohms corresponding to the voltage of the coil, (my stator has 11 things ) My reading is zero. That I can do to correct and / or verify this because the battery is not taking charge you for your help.
When testing for continuity on each part of the stator, you're looking for a small number, between 0.5 and 2 ohms. The high voltage part will have more resistance. zero ohms means a short circuit. "0L" on the multimeter means no connection. If you get either one, you may need a new stator.
Paul Shpakov is their any other way to get fly wheel off
A very good viedeo
I am new to scooters,so please excuse my ignorance,but, given the amount of work involed,shouldnt you check fuses First,and stator Last? Otherwise GReat tut. Thanks for helping me learn
haha, yes, fuses first! Thanks for the comment. :)
Hello. I just replace my bad regulator. My bulbs were dim than burning out when I would rev the engine. Now with a new regulator my bulbs don't burn out but still are very dim at idle. When I rev the engine and press the brake the headlights and dashboard lights light up normal bright. But when I come to a stop and release the brake. Lights go dim....
Any ideas? Stator, bad ground?
Hurcevio Munoz Lights being dim on idle may be normal. Check it with a multimeter, and yes, check the ground. You want to have higher than battery voltage (more than 12.6 V) any time the engine is running. The only other part of the charging system is the stator, so you could try replacing that.
Hello paul, i dont understand how there should be continuity between green to white and green to yellow, was looking at couple of other videos and they say no continuity so just wondering.....my battery is not charging....im not getting voltage (engine running) between green-white and green-yellow but i am getting voltage across yellow-white, is this correct? Thanks.
Check the wiring diagram. It's possible your scooter stator wires were hooked up in a weird way. One time I had a lot of trouble getting a charging system to work because all the new stators I bought were wired funny compared to what was in the scooter.
Check your A/C voltage voltage at the voltage regulator, and check the DC output there too.
This guy wow amazing I don't know what to say he did everything correctly maybe my regulator rectifier is bad on my moped because my battery will hold a charge and it will die after a certain period of time while the bike is on I've ran through so many batteries and replace them all and come to find out is probably my regulator rectifier that's bad cuz it's not pushing out enough output it has a lot of input not enough output
Thank you for the information Paul.I got a question,I got a velocity scooter with a 5 terminal regulator,I have some issues with the charging system.Only getting 13.00 volts reving the engine at 3/4 wide open throttle.I installed new stator and regulator.With regulator plugged in and testing input at yellow to green and pink to green I am only getting 8.0 ac volts.With regulator unplugged I'm getting 33 volts in yellow and 0 volts at pink.Same ac readings at stator connector(yellow and white).Is this telling me the new stator I just installed is defective?
It's possible! I had a horrible time recently trying to get a good
stator for my 150cc scooter. I ordered one from eBay. It was the wrong
one. I went to a local scooter store. The wiring didn't match up.
They talked me into trying it. It didn't work. I ordered stator #3
from partsforscooters.com. It was the same as the scooter store one.
None of them matched the GY6 wiring diagram (it's a generic diagram you
can find online). 100% of the stators I bought were
defective. I managed to re-wire one of the new ones, got about 13v out
of it and called it good. The battery didn't die, so I chose not to
care. Carefully compare each winding of your new scooter to the diagram
to see if those Chinese kids put it together right.
Thanks for the feedback.I think I'm gonna do that (rewiring).Keep you posted.
very good
I need your help : my Scooter battery reads many numbers in a second and never stops at one number it reads 9v/10v /16v/ 13v all these crazy reads happens in less han one second and never stops ... so I thought it would be the regulator and I bought a new regulator the same shape I have , but it did not work , it explodes the Fuse and make wires gets hot if I tough the battery charger cable to the batery, then I had to reinstall the Old Regulator and it works and charge well but multi reading per second , the same reading with a new battery .. what do you think ? CDI box or Regulator ??? I have measured all the other electronic parts and they all works well
Are you testing at the battery, or on some other wire? it's possible your new regulator is bad. With these Chinese scooters, nothing is standard. The new part could look the same and be wired differently, or maybe it's just defective.
It can make repairs very frustrating.
One time, I tried to replace a stator. I tried 3 different stators and none of them worked. They were all wired different from what my scooter had.
The jumping readings mean your voltage is changing, therefore a regulator or rectifier. A rectifier turns A/C into D/C, and it's inside the regulator on these scooters. I think your diagnosis is right, but it could be those parts throwing you for a loop. Try getting another regulator, from a different supplier.
@@LabCoatPaul : yes I test at the battery also I have tested more than battery while the Scooter is Running , it is crazy ::: then you said that the regulator is bad even if it is new and same shape 6 pins but the Wires from inside could be in Different Colors : that what you mean ? have upi experienced it before ?
so does that mean the yellow that is at 11.9 idle and 13.8 reving engine is good or bad. The scooter will not start again I can kick start it. Thank you again for your help.
ok thanks I ordered one let you know if it fixes problem. Thank you for all your help
I got a 150cc scooter and none of the headlights are working or the tail light
I put a brand new stator on
Sir i am confused . I see other videos here that state the stator test on the yellow and white wires should be 30 volts and up to 70 when the engine is running. i have purchased 3 different 8 pole stators and they all show the 30 volts and up on one of the wires and the lower voltage you show on either the white or yellow one sorry I do not remember which was which. I have now purchased a 11 pole upgrade stator which has 3 yellow wires and 2 of them show the 30v and up voltage when running and one has the low voltage you show. I am so confused. I just can not believe all these stators are bad. Any help from any one is appreciated thanks.
The 11 pole upgraded stator is much better than the 8 pole, but requires a different voltage regulator, and the wiring is different.
@@LabCoatPaul Yes i know I have did the 11 pole swap and the 2 questions i have are this.Number 1 is the three yellow wires two have voltage 30v ac and up toward 70v ac when revved the third yellow wire does good to get out of the low twenties, This seems to be the same on numerous stators ? The regulator is putting out about 14 to 15 and a half volts until i turn the lights on at which point it is perfect from high 12 volts to about 14.2 so just leaving the lights on seems to solve that problem. Number 2 I have never hooked up the black wire out of the regulator. The only thing I can find about it is that it hooks to the ignition switch. Ok where before the switch or after and what does it do thanks.